Barcelona Personally

For You!

1
 Index
WELCOME TO BARCELONA .......................................................................................................................................... 3
INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................................................................. 4

MY PERSONAL HIGHTLIGHTSNOT TO BE MISSED ................................................................................................ 4

THE DISTRICTS ................................................................................................................................................................ 7
BREAKFAST ...................................................................................................................................................................... 8
MARKETS ......................................................................................................................................................................... 9

BEACHES ........................................................................................................................................................................ 10
ESCAPE THE CITY .......................................................................................................................................................... 11

BATTLE OF THE GIANTS ............................................................................................................................................... 14

PEACE AND RELAXATION IN THE PARKS ................................................................................................................... 15

STAY FIT! ........................................................................................................................................................................ 15

MUSEUMS ...................................................................................................................................................................... 17

TRADITIONS .................................................................................................................................................................. 19
DRINKS ........................................................................................................................................................................... 21
LETS GO BUY STUFF! ................................................................................................................................................... 22
VAMOS A COMER? - LUNCH ..................................................................................................................................... 25
PILE ON THE BAGS! ...................................................................................................................................................... 28
SIT DOWN! .................................................................................................................................................................... 30
SEEK AND HIDE ............................................................................................................................................................. 30
ART GALLERIES .............................................................................................................................................................. 31

LIVE MUSIC .................................................................................................................................................................... 32

TAPAS............................................................................................................................................................................. 33

FOOTBALL...................................................................................................................................................................... 36
DINNER .......................................................................................................................................................................... 38
UNDER THE STARS ....................................................................................................................................................... 42
LATE NIGHT PAMPERING ............................................................................................................................................. 42
A NIGHT OUT IN BCN .................................................................................................................................................. 43
BARS ............................................................................................................................................................................... 43

DRUGS............................................................................................................................................................................ 45
DANCE & CLUBBING .................................................................................................................................................... 46

AFTER CLUBS ................................................................................................................................................................. 49

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 WELCOME
TO
BARCELONA!

Are you awake already, or awake still?

1. Pass the sail-shaped W Hotel at the end of the beach and walk out onto the long breakwater that
guards the entry to the old port.
2. Jump down onto the concrete cubes to get around the fence.
3. Walk until you reach the edge. Just be careful the police dont see you from the port.

Now its just you, the sunrise, the sea and the odd cruise ship sailing by.

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 INTRODUCTION

Dear Guest,

You have made an incredible choice in your decision to visit Barcelona, a city a lot of people,
including myself, have fallen in love with.

I want you to have a pleasant, thrilling, and unforgettable stay here in Barcelona. That is why I have
tried to put together information on the city, although a somewhat more alternative guide, that will
hopefully serve as a secondary one to the standard guides most people tend to use.

I hope you enjoy reading this and above all have fun living these tips to their fullest potential.
Barcelona has endless experiences to offer so please enjoy this great city, Barcelona, la ciudad
condal.

Please keep in mind: This document was created for very personal use for my guests, so please do
not distribute it. Thanks!

Abrazos,

ANNA

MY PERSONAL HIGHTLIGHTSNOT TO BE MISSED

There are a lot of recommendations that supposedly are objective; let me in this first part just
share with you my very personal recommendations and the things that I would recommend as
must-dos in Barcelona (not a closed list, but intended to give you some inspiration, I have tried to
be short not easy!)

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To-dos

o Sagrada Familia (also from inside.. just amazing!!), dont forget to do the 5 min walk to the
San Pau hospital, old amazing hospital / sanatorium; all Gaudi buildings not to be missed!
o Montjuic (especially Mir museum and for the great views, go to the castle they have
AMAZING open air movies in the summer, http://www.salamontjuic.org/, highly
recommended to take a scooter, if so then also try the Caseta del Migdia, insider
http://www.lacaseta.org/); Also, free and really nice is the fountain show just at the feet of
Montjuic at Plaa Espanya!
o Go to Santa Maria del Mar (the cathedral built by the people, for the people); if you are
catholic, muslim or atheist it does NOT matter: go inside and light a candle for the people
important to you the history makes this a church for EVERYBODY and you will feel it
o My favorite barrio (quarter) next to Born is GRACIA, still quite authentic and a must get to
know Saturday drop by the market of Gracia just stroll to the beautiful and lively squares,
probably the most social ambiences in Barcelona: Plaza vila de Gracia, Plaza del Sol, Plaza de
la Vireina, Plaza de la Revolucin and dont miss the heart of Gracia, Calle Verdi (there is
also an alternative cinema with movies in original version, http://www.cines-
verdi.com/barcelona/)
o Play Beach Volleyball in Nova Icaria
o Special tip for fans of the nightlife: register in http://www.bpremium.com/ and put yourself
for free on the guest list, may save you quite some hassle
o LAST BUT NOT LEAST: if you really want to experience Barcelona as a local, then you need to
MOVE like a local, and rent a scooter (a lot of places, www.cooltra.com/en/barcelona-top-
ten, are much easier to get to by scooter. Contact Timo (timo@cooltra.com) or Sandra
(Sandra@cooltra.com) , tell them you are friends of Holger (from HS3) and ask for discounts
on tours and rent again: you will enjoy this!!)

Outside of Barcelona

There are a lot of places outside of Barcelona (the entire Costa Brava is amazing!). These are my
selected tips:

o Sitges: you can take the train from Passeig de Gracia and it takes no more than 45 minutes
to this great seaside city; do a stop-over in Garaff on the way and enjoy the intimate beach
there (walk to the chapel built by Gaudi, 10 minutes walk from the beach)
o Montserrat: one of the most amazing rock formations; you can walk up or take the telefrico
up to the church
o Cadaques: quite far up (almost in France), Dali lived there (a visit to his house is a must),
beautiful spot of the great Costa Brava; if you have time, pass by the Dali museum in
Figueres. A one night stay in Cadaques is worthwhile!!

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 Restaurants

A selection of my favorites restaurants:

o La Paradeta (Born): Best value for money; you pick your stuff directly from the market
(seafood) and they prepare it on the spot. Great food and a great experience; no
reservation are accepted, you might need to line up for some while, but worth it (behind the
market of Born, just by the paseo del Born); http://www.laparadeta.com/marisqueria-la-
paradeta-born-barcelona.html
o Txakoli: Basque tapas place where hot tapas are coming out of the kitchen (wait for those
and dont take the others...); in Born close to Estacin de Francia and Paseo del Born. Good
value for money and no need to reserve
o Sureny (in Gracia, Plaza de Revolucin); a place with the best haute-cuisine tapas in
Barcelona (just amazing, same with the wines they have), a real insider tip; reserve especially
if you want to sit outside; I just love the food they have... you can combine with an aperitif in
one of Gracias squares before and strolling in Calle Verdi;
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d817166-Reviews-Sureny-
Barcelona_Catalonia.html
o Academia (Barrio Gtico close to Plaza San Jaume),
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d697441-Reviews-
Cafe_De_L_Academia-Barcelona_Catalonia.html, also a must
o Josephine (Eixample), good mediocre reviews, but I dont agree;
http://www.tripadvisor.es/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d2322259-Reviews-Josephine-
Barcelona_Catalonia.html, go Friday or Saturday later, live jazz from 23.30. probably the
place which parallels the New York style designed by famous designer food is very good..
o Mundial (Born): Probably one of the most authentic taverns with great quality seafood, cozy
and cool atmosphere, http://www.tripadvisor.es/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d697612-
Reviews-Bar_Mundial-Barcelona_Catalonia.html
o La Vietnamita (Gracia): incase you are fed up with Spanish food and want something healthy
for a great value for your money: try this out, http://lavietnamita.com/

Also in the other parts there are some great additional tips for everybodys taste!!!! Buen
provecho!!! ;-)

Must read

There are tons of books to read which relate to Barcelona that you NEED to read (available in a lot
of languages):

o La sombra del viento (by Carlos Ruiz Zafn); The shadows of the winds
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 o The cathedral of the sea (by Idelfonso Falcones)

If you read those books, then I can guarantee that you will see Barcelona with different eyes!

THE DISTRICTS

Barri Gtic & La rambla TOP 5: La Zona Alta TOP 5:

La Catedral
La Rambla
Museu dHistria de la Ciutat
Museu frederic Mars LEixample TOP 5:
Plaa de Sant Jaume Casa Batll
Fundaci Antoni Tpies
La Pedrera
La Sagrada Familia
Museu Egipci
Cosmocaixa
Jardins del Laberint dHorta
Museu-Monestir de Pedralbes
Palau Reial de Pedralbes
Parc dAtraccions
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 BREAKFAST

Bar Veldromo - Muntaner 213, M Hospital Clinic - Very early breakfast. Start
the day in Bar Veldromo. Get there early, snag a table by the window and
order a huge plate of scrambled eggs with Catalan sausage served on a bed of
chips. The staff couldnt be less concerned than you are on your third hour
while the queue forms outside.

Ra Plaa de la Gardunza, 3. Raval/ M Liceu Good morning sunshine. The set

breakfasts on the terrace of Ra can fill you up until dinner. Especially if you
draw them out until lunchtime.

Santa Marta Grau I Torras, 59.

Barceloneta/ M Barceloneta Above you, the sky. Around you, joggers
and families. In front of you, the sea and a huge chicken sandwich.

BYOB = Build Your Own Breakfast:

1. Bread and pastries from Baluard Baluard, 38. Barceloneta/ M

Barceloneta
2. Cheese from Formatgera La Seu Daguera, 1 6. Born/ M Jaume I
3. Ham and sausages from Botifarrera Santa Maria Santa Maria, 4. Born/ M Jaume I
4. Jam and honey from Vila Viniteca Agullers, 9. Born/ M Jaume I
5. Olives and pickles from Colmado Quilez Rambla Catalunya, 63. Eixample Esq / M Passeig de Grcia

Chocolate con churros: The typical breakfast in Barcelona and actually in whole all of Spain. You get a cup of
tasty hot chocolate, dip the churros (fried pastries) into it and enjoy. Where are the best ones?

- Caf de la pera. Located in the Ramblas, it is definitely one of the characters of the Catalan
bourgeoisie, and during the 60s and 70s it converted to a
centre of reunions and intellectuality.
- La Pallaresa - another place with a tradition for hot
chocolate - Petrixol, 11/ M Liceu, in the
very centre of Barcelona.
- La Nena, where hot chocolate can
result in an incomparable pleasure - Carrer
Ramon y Cajal, 36/ M Fontana o Joanic

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 - Cacao Sampaka - Carrer de Consell de Cent, 292/ M Passeig de Gracia.
Brunch: Although it is not typical for Barcelona, here some nice options for a Sunday brunch.

- Barcel Raval - Rambla del Raval 17-21. Raval/ M Liceu or Paral-lel

- Milk Bar & Bistro - Carrer d'En Gigns, 21. Gtic/ M Jaume I - a cosy and cool bar in the old part of
Barcelona near the port area
- Marmalade - Carrer de la Riera Alta,
4. Raval/ M Liceu the bigger sister of Milk
Bar & Bistro and a local hotspot
- Federal Cafe - Carrer del Parlament
de Catalunya, 39. Eixample Esquerra/ M
Sant Antonii or Poble Sec international
feel with local appeal, great service and reasonable prices
- Dostrece - Carrer del Carme, 40. Raval/ M Liceu - cool and friendly bar / restaurant with international
and Mexican dishes, caf, breakfast, cocktail bar, lounge.

MARKETS

Markets are a great place to have breakfast, especially if you are

after something more substantial.

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Mercat de la Boquera La Rambla, 91 gold standard among the markets. Its shopkeepers provide food to
Barcelonas best restaurants, everything is worth buying.

How to buy:

- Avoid the overpriced stalls in the first half of the main aisle
- Prices are not generally negotiable, though you can always make a good-natured attempt.
- The most colorful stalls (or the noisiest stall-holders) dont usually have the best produce.
- When you get to a particularly crowded stall, shout
Quin es el ltimo? (Who is the last one?) to find your place
in the queue.
- Buy the juices after 18-19h, when they cost half the
price.
- At closing time (around 20:00h), feel free to pick up
leftover fruit and vegetables before they are thrown away.

Mercat de Santa Caterina Fransesc Camb, 16 the

Boquerias stylish sibling in the Born. Redesigned by architects
Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue, its colorful, rolling roof covers a clean and serene interior.

Mercat de Sant Antoni Carrer del Comte d'Urgell, 1 Like the Boqueria market but larger and without
tourists Colorful stalls for alimentation, fruit, vegetables, fish and seafood, the Mercat de Sant Antoni at the
southwestern edge of the Raval is one of the largest market halls in Barcelona which is still active. On Sunday
from 8.30am to 2.30pm, just around the outside of
the building, is a book and coin market for all the
collectors out there. You will find a tremendous
assortment of old books, magazines, comics,
postcards, records, coins, stamps, and also textiles.

BEACHES

Barcelonas beaches have many different faces. One by one they are:

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 - San Sebastian Remote, nudist and inhabited mainly by old men.
- Barceloneta - Packed with skaters, surfers, rollerbladers, cyclists, waiters, small children, sand artists,
and most other subgenres of people.
- Nova Icaria and Bogatell Halfway between family sober and pre-party tense. Volleyball paradise.
- Mar Bella Nude, gay and generally promiscuous.
- Nova Mar Bella Like Ibiza, with house music and topless girls.
- Llevant Surprisingly calm and miles away.

ESCAPE THE CITY

Beaches out of the city:

Hop onto a train R1 at Plaa Catalunya and within 15-60 minutes youll arrive at a beach with fine sand, no
music and, most importantly, no peddlers.

- Sant Adri - the closest good beach, also home to Barcelonas Chernobyl power plant (15 minutes).
- Badalona - the next stop on the same line, also nice and family-friendly.
- Montgat (20 minutes) - feels a lot more like a real holiday, especially if you get off at calmer Montgat
Nord.
- Sant Pol de Mar (1 hour) - walk from the station
back towards Barcelona and away from the town
for

11
 about ten minutes and youll get to a stretch of nudist beach with coves and rocks protecting you
from the wind and onlookers. Find the chiringuito of the brothers Galvez, with tables set up right on
the sand for excellent paella.
- Santa Susana (1 hour and 20 minutes) - no buildings there! just chill.
- Cala Fonda May be easily Catalonias best beach, however it is close to Tarragona and a little off
the beaten track. It is a 200-metre-wide cove covered in white sand and surrounded by pine forests.
(Its popular amongst nudists who rub their bodies with the beach`s yellow stones for smoother skin).
By car, park at the campsite in La Mora and go on foot; Or take a regional train towards Tarragona,
get off at Altafulla-Tamarit, and walk or hitch a ride towards the pine forest just after La Mora. Thats
where paradise lies.

The whole Costa Brava is a paradise with its diversity of landscapes - beaches with white sand, beaches with
stones, mountainsOnce there, dont miss Blanes, Lloret de Mar, Tossa de Mar, Sant Feliu de Guxols,
Castell-Platja dAro and all the other places up to Port Bou the last village before you enter France.

Trips:

- Sant Sadurn DAnoia with R4 train from Plaa Catalunya or Sants (50 minutes) For wine lovers! A
little village, centre of the cava and wine production of the Peneds. Go to the family-run Bodega
Castellroig or Bodega Ravents I Blanc. Ask them to show you around the grounds, try the wines.
- Cap de Creus natural reserve, Cadaqus by car Remote fishing village, whitewashed houses that
acquired fame in the 1970s as the centre of
two artistic movements, one centered around
Salvador Dal and other around the Galera
Cadaqus, which attracted people like Man
Ray, Joseph Beuys and David Hockney. Stroll
along the promenade and have an aperitif at
one of the beach bars, then drive to
neighbouring Port Lligat to visit Dals former
house. From there, follow the signs towards
the easternmost and highest point of the
cape, and lunch with breathtaking views at
Restaurant Cap de Creus (T 972199005. Call to reserve and request a table on the terrace or by the
window).
- LEmpord by car - another spot worth exploring. A richly rural area island from pretty Costa Brava
towns Begur and Tamariu. Drive through fields to medieval villages like Madremanya, Palau-Sator,
Pals and Castell dEmpord, eat when youre hungry and sleep when you`re tired. Thats happiness.
- La Molina and Masella Its not all beach in Catalonia, either. These are two popular ski resorts in the
Pyrenees, which can be reached in a couple of hours and are perfect for a skiing day trip (you can
rent all equipment there).

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 - Montsant a natural reserve and wine country
island from Reus, near Tarragona. Virtually untouched,
its villages look the same as they did 100 years ago and
industry is still focused on producing the famous
Priorat and Montsant wines, not only on tourism. Rent
an inexpensive home with pool for the perfect
weekend (La Vinya del Pare en Mar is a beautiful
house owned by an English couple, T 677 708 115). Or
drive all the way out to Siurana, a 35-inhabitant village
perched on the edge of a cliff, which many of
hundreds years ago was the capital of the Moorish
rulers of the area. Stay at Can Roig (T 977 821 450), very simple private lodgings, bring your hiking
gear, and get some olive oil the most famous in Catalonia on your way back.
- Montserrat the mountain dear to Catalan hearts, which is just 50 km away from the city. From the
range, on a clear day, you can see as far as the Pyrenees, Barcelonas Tibidabo hill and even, if youre
lucky, Mallorca. Take one of the many R5 trains leaving from Plaa Espanya.
- Girona, Tarragona and Sitges are other nice cities near Barcelona worth a visit.

Wild Life in the city:

- Can Masdeu a former leper hospital, turned squat, turned social centre with community garden
right in the Collserola Park. You can come to work in the garden, wander the grounds, or hang out
with the residents and other visitors. You can even stay
for a few nights in the even-numbered months if you
contact them in advance. To get there take L3 metro to
Canyelles or bus 47 from Plaa Catalunya to stop Ronda
de la Guineueta Vella. From there just ask the way.
www.canmasdeu.net

Show your wild side:

- En Pelotas is the Spanish term for going naked.

It means in balls. And whereas going
topless in the city is worth of widespread frowning, going in balls is a right enshrined
in the Spanish Constitution. To be completely sure of yourself, tattoo on some
underwear, like Esteban T.C., the citys most famous nudist (a.k.a. Naked Man). Hes
been wandering up and down La Rambla for years. In balls. However, in May 2011 the
Ayuntamiento de Barcelona has set up a law prohibiting walking around the streets
naked or in bathing suits. So be ready to run fast or you will have to pay the pleasure
with 300-500 euro...)

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 BATTLE OF THE GIANTS

Tibidabo Hill:

- In Latin: I will give thee, 512 m high, topped with a

church. Visit: Vintage amusement park (the ghost
train with real people will scare the living hell out of
you). Funicular (which youll need to take to get up
there). Modernisme houses (which you will pass
when going up there). Diplomats (inside the
Modernisme houses). Temple de Sagrat Cor (the
church thats visible from all over the city and
provides an amazing view). It was built in two
different styles. Discover it from inside.
- Back in 1901, a theme park was built on Tibidabo hill
with the best views imaginable. And it still works. Direct route: Tibibus from Plaa Catalunya. Scenic
route: FGC to Avg. Tibidabo, then Tramvia Blau, then Tibidabo Funicular to the top. Tip: In order to
go to the Funicular you dont need to take Tramvia Blau, which is rather touristic. Just go up the Avg.
Tibidabo and you will be there in some 15-20 minutes. You can make also a small shortcut through a
nice park (Parc de la Font del Rac) which you will pass by on your way up.

VS:

Montjuic Hill:

- In Catalan: Hill of the Jews, 173m tall, topped with a castle. Visit: Fundaci Mir (pretty sculpture
garden). Caixa Forum (photography and a great book shop). Mies van der Rohe pavilion
(architectural highlight). Outdoor cinema (only in July). Spaceship tower (by Santiago Calatrava),
Cemetery (alias City of the Dead). La Caseta Migda (open-air bar). La Fuixarda (rock climbing).
- Crawling up the sea-facing side of Montjuic is the
City of the Dead, a collection of high-rise graves that
form the Montjuic Cemetery. Wedged in between are
innumerable works of art, from perfectly sculptured
angels of death to gypsy-kitsch celebrations of love,
virtue, and virility. Off the southern edge of the cemetery
you will find a little-known monument built on the site of
a mass grave where 4000 victims of the Franco Regime
were buried during the Spanish Civil War. El Fossar de la
Pedrera, designed by architect Beth Gal, is one of the
most peaceful places in town.

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 - How to go if not exploring on foot: Mare de Du del Port, 56. Montjuic/ M Plaa Espanya. Take bus
no. 37 from Plaa Espanya towards Zona Franca, and get off after nine stops at Passeig de la Zona
Franca, 61.
- MY PERSONAL VIEW: spare Tibidabo and enjoy Montjuic to the fullest (best with a Scooter)

PEACE AND RELAXATION IN THE PARKS

- Along the west part of the city, in the suburbs: Parque de Cervantes with beautiful flowers, Parque de
Collserola with a very natural forest, Park Gell in Gaud style, and Parque del Laberinto de Horta
with a real cypress labyrinth and an entrance fee (also known as Jardins del Laberint dHorta). There
are also many small parks along the Ronda where locals find respite from the city frenzy.
- In the city: Parque de Joan Mir, Tur Park
- On the opposite side close the sea: Parque de la Ciutadella favourite picnic place, find the elephant,
sail in the lake, play table tennis, and visit the zoo; Diagonal Mar, Parc de Carles, Parc de las
Cascades, Parc del Port, Parc dIcaria y Parc de Poble Nou.

STAY FIT!

Barcelona is the perfect place for all kinds of open-air activities and sports. You can surf and two hours later
ski!

Run:

- Sometimes you just want to run. The beach is an old

favorite, especially the less crowded stretch between
Bogatell and the Forum. Of the parks, flat Ciutadella is

15
 the closest to the town, while Montjuic is more challenging terrain. But theres one place unlike
anything else in Barcelona. Its called La Carretera de las Aigues, a 20 km stretch of road through the
Collserrola Park. Here, youll run with a mountain on one side and the city below you, so close it
looks like you could touch it. Start north: M Penitents, Start south: M Zona Universitaria.

Climb:

- On Montjuic, between the Poble Espanol and the Olympic

installations, youll find Europes biggest urban rock-climbing area
public and free. La Fuixarda is a collection of steep rock walls
surrounded by trees, and to get to it youll have to cross a tunnel that
has been equipped with handholds for freeclimbing. Bus 13 will get you
there from Plaa Espanya.

Cycle:

- Along the coast: Start at the Forum and follow Carrer Taulat north, past Badalona and el Masnou to
Premi de Mar. And if you really want you could go all the way to Matar, with the waves by your
side. There are cycle lanes or boardwalks, all the way, and plenty of beach bars in case you get
thirsty.
- Up the river: Start at the Forum and follow the river Bess (and the
view of the mountains), past Montcada until Montmel. If you
fancy real countryside and can take the ensuing uphill battle,
proceed even further, towards La Roca.
- Search or create your own route on
http://catenacycling.com/en/ride-the-world

Skate:

- Barcelona is a dream city for the skaters and the heart and soul of European skateboarding. With
countless squares and streets with flat asphalt, freestyle possibilities
and perpetual sunny and warm weather, its not a surprise that many
good skaters choose to live in or at least to visit Barcelona. Best
skateboarding spots: MACBA, Plaa Universitat, Forum, Sants Estacio,
near to M Paral-lel, Los Porchus, MarBella skate park. Have a look also
at Europes first hostel designed specifically for skateboarders Sant
Jordi Hostel: www.santjordihostels.com!

Inline-skating:

- Dont miss the opportunity to participate in the organized

routes by the Inline-Skaters Association Barcelona. Skate and
experience the city at night while all the cars stop and wait for
you to pass by. Check the schedule at www.patinarbcn.org.

16
 MUSEUMS
Barcelona is like a giant open-art museum architectural variety,
300+ public artworks, street-art culture, near-ubiquitous
modernisme adornments etc. There are many small museums
showcasing everything from the edgy to the outright weird.

- Museum of Funeral Carriages Sancho de vila, 2. Poblenou, M Marina - on the weird end of the
scale, offers spooky (and often solitary) tours around its premises.
- Fundaci Antoni Tpies Arag, 255. Eixample Esquerra, M Passeig de Grcia traditionally artistic
space dedicated to Barcelonas most famous contemporary artist.
- Fundaci Joan Mir Parc de Montjuic, M Poble Sec has a fairy-tale sculpture garden and
organizes one of the citys best temporary exhibitions.
- Caixaforum Av. Marqus de Comillas, 6-8. Montjuic, M Plaa Espanya excellent photographic and
audiovisual programme, a bookshop specializing in art, architecture, media and graphic novels. Free
entry.
- Cosmocaixa Isaac Newton, 26. Zona Alta, FGC Tibidabo science museum, physical experiments,
geological displays and giant aquariums will keep you busy until the night falls.

17
You can cover the citys four big contemporary art institutions in one morning: Arts Santa Mnica (La
Rambla, 7), La Virreina Centre de LImatge (La Rambla, 99), MACBA (Plaa dels Angels, 1) Barcelonas
Museum of Contemporary Art also with interesting architecture, CCCB (Montalegre, 5) MACBAs younger
and less serious sibling, a center of unusual and interactive exhibitions, and many festivals.

Every first Sunday of the month there are free entries to many museums, e.g. the Museum of Picasso. And
every Sunday afternoon from 15:00h to 20:00h you can visit for free the city municipal museums. Here are
some museums, which could be of interest, but also make a fast search in Google to find the most recent
information:

- Estadi Olmpic free all the time

- Jardins del Laberint dHorta Wednesdays and Sundays
- Museu Barbier-Mueller dArt Pre-Colombi 1st Sunday of the month
- Museu de la Xocolata 1st Monday of the month
- Museu dHistoria de Catalunya 1st Sunday of the month

- Museu dHistoria de la Ciutat 4pm to 8 pm 1st Saturday of the month

- Museu Frederic Mars Wednesday afternoons and 1st Sunday of the month
- Museu Martim 3 pm to 8 pm 1st Saturday of the month
- Museu Picasso 1st Sunday of the month

- Palau Reial de Pedralbes 1st Sunday of the month

- Temple Rom dAugusti all the time

For young and old the zoo and the aquarium will always be fun.

And not to forget the churches, visit the Gauds artwork Sagrada Familia which looks
like a sand castle and has been built for 130 years and the Cathedral in Gothic style.

18
 TRADITIONS

Locals love fiestas. Thats why they make use of each possibility for that. Depending on what time of the year you come to Barcelona,
you may come across different district fiestas, cavalcades, carnival etc. which are interesting and nice to see. Check out the schedule:

The night of the Three Kings Magi (Los Reyes Magos):

th
- The night of the 5 of January is the night of the Three Kings Magi.
There is a long, colorful cavalcade on the streets of Barcelona. The city is
crowded, young and old, to go see the Three Kings. Children have the
chance to personally present them with letters about the gifts they want to
receive. The Magi come from the Orient on their camels and visit the houses
of all the children in one night. The kids who were good during the year are
brought gifts and the bad ones coal.

La Calotada:

- The Biggest Catalan Onion Festival on the last Sunday of January in Valls, Tarragona. Go there to see masses of spring-
onion-like calots being barbecued, dipped and devoured in a sword-swallowing fashion. Be a part of it and join the all-
you-can-eat competitions, where it is not unusual to see a whopping 200 calots being consumed in 45 minutes! Find the
calot in the masias (farmhouses-turned-restaurants) from around January to April.

Carnival:

- Every year in February carnival is the time of joy and exuberance,

before the 46-day Lent to Easter begins. In Barcelona the
celebration isnt so huge, but if you are a real carnival fan, you
should go to Sitges (15 km away), where the Carnival has been
celebrated for over 100 years. In the gay and lesbian stronghold,
the atmosphere is very shrill and eccentric, and the parade
unique. On Dijous Gras - the Dirty Thursday King Carnestoltes,
the King Carnival, moves to Sitges. Highlights in Sitges are Rua de
la Disbauxa on Sunday and Rua de l'Exterminiam on Tuesday
afternoon. Go by train from Sants Estaci.

19
Easter and the Holy Week (Semana Santa):

- Easter in Barcelona is not quite as distinctively celebrated as in the

south of Spain. However, the cult of the Virgin Mary is very strong and there
are processions to her honour. A huge statue of Mary is carried by the
Costaleros, members of religious brotherhoods, the Cofradas. Especially the
so-called Nazareros can make you tremble. Wearing black penitent vesture
with sharp, coned hoods, barefooted, they are crossing the streets, bearing a
heavy chain behind them .

The night of Sant Joan (Nit de Sant Joan):

- Sant Joan in Barcelona and Spain is the festival that celebrates the
midsummer eve on the evening and night of 23rd June. It is a very festive,
fiery and fun night, and the huge party goes on until sunrise with around
75,000 people on the beaches (mostly on Bogatell and Mar Bella). "Bany
de Sant Joan, salut per tot l'any" (Bathe on Sant Joan and you'll be healthy
all year round) says the tradition. Thats why many swim their sins away
with a dip in the sea at midnight. Each barrio in Barcelona has its
own firework display along with local all-night bonfires fuelled by
collections of old furniture! Dancing and celebrations in the plazas, street
parties, music and entertainment all night long.

La Merc Barcelona:

- Close to the end of September Barcelona holds its largest street party, the Barcelona La Merc Festival. It lasts for around 5
days and is held in honour of Mare de Deu de la Merc, the Patron Saint of Barcelona. The festival bids goodbye to the
summer with a bang and welcomes in the cooler months of autumn.
- Highlight 1: Correfoc - Fire Run at Porta Cambo, Avenida Francesc Cambo, Plaza de Antoni Maura, Via Laietana, Plaza de
Antoni Lopez and Consolat de Mar. The devils run up the streets with bangers and hand held fireworks. Fire breathing
dragons (or at least sparkler-breathing dragons) also roam the streets with devils skipping along with spiraling fireworks
held in their hands.
- Highlight 2: Castellers - Human Towers at Placa de Sant Jaume. The aim of the Castellers is to build a human tower and
have a young child climb to the very top of the tower and stand up.
- Highlight 3: Gigantes (Giants Parade) at Plaza de la Merc, Barcelona Cathedral and Plaza de Sant Jaume. Huge giants with
effigies of kings, queens and nobles march through the streets of Barcelona.

Festes majors barris Barcelona (Major fiestas of

Barcelonas districts):

- Not only the city but each district of Barcelona has their own fiesta during the
year. The fiestas are often associated with patron saints and last 3 or 4 days. There are
again many traditional activities like dancing sardana, correfocs, castellers, craft
exhibitions, giants etc. See the list and take a walk:

20
 January Festa Major de Sant Antoni (middle of January)
March Festes de Sant Medir (beginning of March)
Festa de Sant Josep Oriol/El Pi (last two weeks of March)
April Festa Major Sagrada Familia (last two weeks of April)
May Festa Major Guinard (first two weeks of May)
Festa Major Nou Barris (end of May)
June Festa Major del Baix Guinard (first two weeks of June)
Festa Major de Porta (first two weeks of June)
Festa Major del Coll (first two weeks of June)
Festa Major de Sant Gervasi (last two weeks of June)
July Festa Major de Fort Pienc (first two weeks of July)
Festa Major del Raval (middle of July)
Festa Major del Poble Sec (last two weeks of July)
August Festa Major de Santa Maria de Vallvidrera (middle of August)
Festes de Sant Roc/Barri Gtic (middle of August)
Festa Major de Gracia (last two weeks of August)
Festa Major de Sants (last two weeks of August)
Festa Major de la Font del mn (end of August)
September Festa Major Parc Gell - La Salut (September)
Festa Major Camp d'en Grassot-Gracia Nova (first two weeks of September)
Festa Major d'Horta (first two weeks of September)
Festa Major de Vallcarca (first two weeks of September)
Festa Major de La Bordeta (first two weeks of September)
Festa Major de La Ribera (first two weeks of September)
Festa Major de Vallvidriera (middle of September)
Festa Major Poblenou (last two weeks of September)
Festa Major de Montbau (last two weeks of September)
Festa Major de Verdum (last two weeks of September)
Festa Major de Barcelona (La Merc) (24th of September)
October Festa Major de Sant Miquel /Barceloneta (end September/beginning October)
Festa Major del barri del Congrs (beginning of October)
Festa Major de Sarri (beginning of October)
Festa Major d'Hostafrancs (first two weeks of October)
Festa Major de La Rambla (first two weeks of October)
Festa Major de Les Corts (first two weeks of October)
Festa Major de La Verneda-Sant Marti (last two weeks of October)
November Festa Major d'El Clot - Camp de l'Arpa (first two weeks of November)
Festa Major de La Sagrera (last two weeks of November)
December Festa Major de Sant Andreu (end of November/ beginning of December)

DRINKS

Verm: Its hair of the dog or the beginning of a very long lunch. It comes with a
plate of olives or an array of tapas. The company may be old friends or new
acquaintances. But the vermouth will inevitably be dark and sweet.

- Bar Mut Pau Claris, 192. Eixample Dreta/ M Diagonal, Call to book. T

932174338, Mon-Fri 09:00-00:00h, Sat-Sun 11:0000:00h - This is

where tradition is upscale and grease-free.

21
 - La Cova Fumada Baluard, 56. Barceloneta/ M Barceloneta, Mon-Fri 09:00 15:00h, Sat 09:00-
13:30h, Thu-Fri 18:00-20:30h Feels like home.

Aperitif:

- Belvedere Passatge Mercader, 3. Eixample Esquerra/ M Diagonal. T:

932159088, Mon-Fri, 13:30 01:00h an enchanted place where sound from the
outside world cant reach you.
- LAmetller Banys Vells, 7. Born/ M Jaume I hide in the citys tiniest tapas
bar. There are only five tables and one is reserved.

Horchata:

- Sweet goodness nobody knows exactly how its made. But everybody
knows exactly where to get it.
- Horchatera Sirvent Parlament, 56. Eixample Esquerra/ M Sant Antoni

Wine bars:

- I Viblioteca Vallfogona, 12. Grcia/ M Fontana a bright space serving

only the best wines, cheese and liquors.
- II Monvnic Diputaci, 249. Eixample Esquerra/ M Passeig de Grcia
Upon entering, your first reaction will be: I cant afford this! Followed by: Im not
dressed for this! However, the aim of this highly sophisticated bar and restaurant
is to bring the joys of wine to everyone, so come in sneakers, spend anything from
4 to 20 Euros on two glasses of wine, stay for two hours and they will greet you
just as warmly next time.
- III And Correu Vell, 3. Gtic/ M Jaume I This is where you would take
a French art student on a date: a cavernous bar full of candles, sofas and bottles
of affordable red to last you through night-long discussions of Descartes and Truffaut.

Beer: Escape from the heat with a cold beer.

- Estrella Damm - the local beer which you can find everywhere
- Moritz another tasty local beer to be found in almost every bar and restaurant
- BEST beer in town for my taste is MORITZ, an old beer which war revived a
couple of years ago they also have a great restaurant in Eixample which
opened end of 2011.

LETS GO BUY STUFF!

Els Encants Dos de Maig, 177-187, Eixample Dreta/ M

Encants, Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat 09:00-18:00 There has been
talk about its relocation for years, but so far the crazy jumble
of broken TV sets, dirty silverware, battered books, and
wooden picture frames remains in the anonymous no-mans-
land next to the Plaa de les Glries. As at any flea market,

22
youll have to dig your way through piles of junk in order to find the collectors items and once you find
your prize, be prepared to bargain hard with the old man of the other side of the blanket. Arrive early to
grab the better items, or wait until after 12:00h.

How to get ahold of vintage furniture - Roam the streets after 20:00h on the
night Barcelonians leave their old furniture in the street for disposal. On
Monday its Raval; on Tuesday, Grcia; on Wednesday, Eixample Esquerra; on
Thursday, Born and Poble Nou; and on Friday, Eixample Dreta. Make sure
youre either in a group or in possession of a vehicle.

Shops specializing in restored 20th-century design pieces:

- Against Comte d'Urgell, 47-51. Eixample Esquerra, M Urgell

- Gotham Cervantes, 7. Gtic, M Jaume I
- ltima Parada Taulat, 93. Poble nou, M Llacuna or Poblenou
- Arno Avg. Roma, 71. Eixample Esquerra, M Entena
- Room Service Carrer dels ngels, 16. Raval, M Universitat rather an
art gallery

Record shops:

- CD-Drome Valldonzella, 3. Raval/ M Universitat The Garden of Eden of the Indie world where
electronic and rock music live peacefully side by side. A place
for people with professional aspiration on amateur budgets.
- Wah Wah Riera Baixa, 14. Raval/ M Liceu one-
stop shop for records since the 1992 Olympics. It hides
obscure titles for real fanatics.
- Discos Juand Giralt el Pellisser, 2B. Born/ M Jaume
I - #1 for Funk and Soul - for people who hate the word
digital.
- Revolver Tallers, 13. Raval/ M Catalunya emperor of the alternative music.
- La Ruta Natural Elisabets, 6. Raval/ M Catalunya Contains the latest releases and back catalogues
of pretty much any subgenre of electronic music.

Barcelonas leading book shops:

23
 - Librera Medios (Communication sciences)
Valldonzella, 7. Raval/ M Universitat
- Librera Negra y Criminal (Crime fiction) De la Sal, 5.
Barceloneta/ M Barceloneta
- Kowasa Gallery (Photography) Mallorca, 235. Eixample
Esquerra/ M Provena
- Hibernian Books (English-language second-hand)
Montseny, 17. Grcia/ M Fontana
- Loring Art (Contemporary art) Gravina, 8. Raval/ M
Universitat
- Ras Gallery (Architecture, photography and design) Doctor Dou, 10. Raval/ M Catalunya

Comic books:

- Continuar Va Laietana, 29. Gtic/ M Jaume I

not just a store, a museum of comic culture, with clothes,
DVDs, toys and gadgets
- Antifaz Gran de Grcia, 239. Grcia/ M Lesseps
meticulously organized shelves of the greatest European,
American and Japanese comics in different languages
- Freaks Ali Bei, 10. Eixample Dreta/ M Arc de
Triomp stocks the curious-from bizarre comics and
fanzines to catalogues of tattoos from Papua New Guinea

Instruments:

- Tube Sound Badia, 12. Grcia/ M Fontana citys most professional shop for musical instruments.
The owners are true experts in the field, walking encyclopedias of guitars, amplifiers and valves. Let
them listen to the song for a few seconds and
they will tell you exactly what kind of equipment
you need to reproduce it. Their reputation is
absolute and its not unusual to bump into
some local musicians at their shop.
- New Phono Ample 35-40. Gtic/ M Jaume I or
Drassanes has been providing all kinds of
instruments to the citys musicians for 150 years.
- Microfusa a shrine to digital culture,
frequented by lovers of electronic sounds who
prefer the Super Mario Bros 3 soundtrack to Beethovens 9th Symphony.

Designer objects:

- Ivo & Co Rec, 20. Born/ M Jaume I

- Vinon Passeig de Grcia, 96. Eixample
Esquerra/ M Diagonal
- LAppartement Enric Granados, 44. Eixample
Esquerra/ M Provena

24
 - Fantastik Joaquim Costa, 62. Raval/ M Universitat
- Chandal Valldonzella, 29. Raval/ M Universitat
- La Comercial Casa Bonaire, 4. Born/ M Jaume I

Other interesting markets are Art and Crafts on Saturdays and Sundays, Plaa de Sant Josep Oriol, Gtic/ M
Liceu; Mercat Gotics antiques on Thursdays (except in August) on the square of the Cathedral/ M Jaume I or
Liceu; at the same place a Christmas market in December and a coin and stamp collectors market on
Sundays on Plaa Reial.

VAMOS A COMER?

Check out the Catalan favourites:

Starters

Amanida catalana a mix of lettuce, olives, tomatoes, eggs, onions, celery, green peppers and garlic, with fish, ham or
sausage, and mayonnaise or an oil and vinegar dressing
Escalibada red peppers and aubergines grilled, cooked, peeled, sliced and served with an olive oil, salt and garlic
dressing
Esqueixada salad of bacalao with tomatoes, red peppers, onions, white beans, olives, olive oil and vinegar
Pa amb tomaquet bread with a little garlic, tomato juice, olive oil and salt on it
Botifarra, llonganissa, fuet or espetec traditional meat specialties

Main Courses

Arrs a la cassola/arroz a la catalane Catalan paella, cooked in an

earthenware pot, without saffron
Arrs negre rice cooked in black cuttlefish ink. Very tasty
Bacall a la llauna salted cod baked in tomato, garlic, parsley,
paprika and wine
Botifarra amb mongetes pork sausage with fried white beans
Cargols Snails, often stewed with conejo (rabbit) and chilli
Escudella a meat and vegetable stew, the sauce of which is mixed
with noodles or rice and served as a soup. Its available in winter only.
Fideua similar to paella, but using vermicelli noodles as a base,
usually served with tomato, meat or fish. Often served with:
Allioli pounded garlic with olive oil, often with egg yolk added
Suquet de peix a kind of fish and potato hotpot
Fricand a pork and vegetable stew

25
 Desserts

Crema catalana
Mel I mat honey and fresh cream cheese
Music (postre de msico) a serving of dried fruits and nuts sometimes mixed with ice cream or a sweetish
cream cheese and served with a glass of sweet muscatel.

The Spanish two-

hour lunch is
famous. At 14h sharp restaurants fill up for the ubiquitous three-
course set meal: El menu del da. For about 10 Euros, youll get a
starter, a substantial main course, dessert and a drink. And it means you can eat at restaurants that would
otherwise be too darn expensive. Lets dig in.

- Patxoca one of the few restaurants in the city serving organic food without sacrificing their style on
the altar of hippie-dom. Menu 9,80 Euros Mercaders, 28. Born/ M Jaume I, T: 933192029
- Le Cucine Mandarosso Whats there not
to love? The sweets dispenser at the door, the
coloured pencils on the tables that invite you to let
out your inner artist on your place mat, or the
incredible goodness of the pasta dishes? Menu 10
Euros Verdaguer I Callis, 4. Born/ M Jaume I, T:
932690780
- Casa Mari y Rufo - Dont let the ramshackle
interior distract you from the tastiness of the sirloin steak with foie gras, flambed by Mari, Rufo or
their son with an industrial blowtorch in the middle of a dining room
packed with suited businessmen, workers from nearby construction site,
and the girls from Chicks on Speed. Menu 11 Euros. Freixures, 11. Born/
M Jaume I, T: 933197302
- Salvador The typical dinner is 50, male and works at the nearby trade
union headquarters on Via Laietana. The typical waiter drinks beer for
breakfast and shouts to be heard over the general racket. And the
typical meal consists of chickpea stew followed by pigs feet or veal
chops. Because real men need real food. Menu 10 Euros Agullers, 18.
Born/ M Jaume I, T: 9331101041
- Kaiku There is no better place for seafood with a view. Menu 11 Euros
Plaa del Mar, 1. Barceloneta / M Barceloneta, T:
932219082
- Big Fish it is like the perfect girlfriend: It has both
beauty and brains, it keeps things simple, and it wont say
anything if you stay out (or rather, in) for a lot longer than
planned. Menu 13 Euros drinks not included.

26
 - Comercial, 9. Born/ M Jaume I, T: 932681728
- Yamane get top-notch sushi prepared right in front
of your eyes. Take it to Parc de la Ciutadella for a
picnic or to Casa Paco next door, where they will let
you eat from your plastic pots in peace as long as
you buy a drink. No menu Allada Vermell, 10. Born/
M Jaume I, T: 616527729
- Sac cut-rate set menu at lunchtime, with no cut in
quality. Menu 23 Euros, drink not included Ptge.
Llus Pellicer, 12. Eixample Esquerra/ M Hospital Clnic, T: 933210189
- Dos Palillos solo project of the former chef de cuisine at El Bulli. The tasting menu prepared at the
bar right in front of your eyes is superb but the lunchtime option is much, much cheaper. Menu 20
Euros, drinks not included Elisabets, 9. Raval/ M Catalunya, T: 933040513
- Cuines Santa Caterina under the wavy roof of the
Santa Caterina market, is a paradise of the undecided. The
menu comes in the style of a Bingo card, only here, the
categories are types of cuisine. Take a gamble and try
something unfamiliar. No menu. Francesc Camb, 16.
Born/ M Jaume I, T: 932689918
- Salero Modern Mediterranean menu without
being over-styled, light and comfortable place with really
nice staff. Menu 11,50 Euros Rec, 60. Born/ M Jaume I, T:
933198022, www.restaurantesalero.com
- Freeway All you can eat restaurants where you dont know what to try first and how to make more
free space in your stomach to be able to try from everything. Menu ca. 10 Euros, drinks not included
- Mallorca, 191. Eixample Esquerra/ M Passeig de Grcia or Hospital Clnic, Tel: 934512047
- Vietnamita Nice restaurant where you can eat
Vietnamese cuisine in a pleasant atmosphere.
- Shoko Pg. Maritim de la Barceloneta, 36.
Barceloneta/ M Ciutadella, T 932259200 a
restaurant on the beach. Reserve if want to sit
outside. Open every day from 12:00h, also on
Sundays. Great for dinner and later its a club.

- Restaurant Ba Fang Yuan Sicilia, 91, on the corner with Ribs/ M Arc de Triomf or Marina Chinese
food, very good cuisine, and nice prices. Monday to Friday midday, good all-you-can-eat buffet.

I want it cheap and I want it now!

27
 - Can Paixano a mess of drunken people clutching
greasy meat sandwiches and 2-euro bottles of pink cava
sounds like bliss to some. Reina Cristina, 7. Born/ M
Barceloneta
- Barcelonas best-value meal 3 Euros for a big plate
of rice, meat and vegetables, at a nameless basement kebab
restaurant off Plaa George Orwell. Cdols, 7. Gtic/ M
Liceu or Drassanes
- Tuco Good, fresh pasta to take away. Agl, 6.
Gtic/ M Jaume I
- La Pizza del Raval By slice or whole, to eat there or take-away. Its fresh and its tasty! Sant
Bartomeu, 1. Raval/ M Liceu
- Frankfurt Sant Jaume Pork-and-cheese, sausage or bacon sandwich? No matter theyre all fried in
the same fat. Plaa Sant Jaume, 2. Gtic/
M Jaume I.
- Quimet DHorta Simply awesome
sandwich joint. Plaa dEivissa, 10. Horta
Guinard/ M Horta.

PILE ON THE BAGS!

Barcelona is a great place to shop. Everything is organized in a handy way - by district. Here is the way it
works:

The shops follow the same social

logic as the city. The area around
the Tur Parc, in Zona Alta, is
packed with expensive designer
boutiques and matching cafs. On
the map, move your finger above

28
the Diagonal towards Grcia, and shops become slightly cheaper and quite daring (especially on Carrer
Sneca).

Barcelonas main shopping axis is formed by Passeig de Grcia and Portal de lAngel, via Plaa Catalunya. It
covers all the basic needs within a price range of 10 to 1000. Passeig de Grcia boasts Barcelonas highest
price per square metre and is home to the worlds main luxury brands from Cartier to Jimmy Choo. Below
Gran Via, High Street rules: Zara, H&M, Mango, and their mass-producing companions have taken control of
that part of the axis.

Off Portal de lAngel, Portaferrissa offers an array of

smaller shops and the Camello market
(recognizable by the huge camel in the doorway),
Barcelonas answer to Londons Camden market.
Grcia is the area to go to in search of the cute,
asymmetric and colorful Catalan style. Carrer
Aveny in the Gtic is great for home-grown talent.
But your best bet for local and international
designer fare, away from the big names and at reasonable prices is doubtlessly the Born. Its narrow streets
hide veritable fashion treasures, and the area on the sea-facing side on the Passeig del Born is packed with
small boutiques catering to every taste.

If you dont mind sporting last year seasons collection, there are plenty of
shops selling clothes at a discount. Barcelona high-street fashion chain Mango (MNG) has an outlet of
faulty garments and leftovers at up to 80% off the original price which is especially attractive for its
special edition clothes (Girona, 37. Eixample Dreta/ M Tetuan). A short walk away is another Barcelona
high-street brand, Desiguals Almazn, sporting its colorful lines (Diputaci, 313. Eixample Dreta/ M
Girona). El Chollo De Las Marcas sells jeans and t-shirts by brands like Fornarina, Diesel and Miss Sixty at
cut-rate prices. (The caveat: since the garments were once displayed in shop windows, they have only
items in size 38.), (Girona, 41. Eixample Dreta/ M Tetuan or Girona). Outlet
del Born stocks old collections

by international designers like Gucci, Miu Miu, Prada, Hugo Boss

and Paul Smith (d Espartera, 12. Born/ M Jaume I). Finally, upscale shoe store Le Shoe
has an outlet of relatively cheap Marc Jacobs, Sonia Rykiel, Alexander McQueen, et al (Rambla Catalunya,
77. Eixample Esquerra/ M Passeig de Grcia). Located 20km away from Barcelona, in the La Roca where
the village has been given over to consumer madness and where you can get up to 60% off.

And if you are in Barcelona in January or July, dont miss the big season sales (rebajas), when the whole city
is in shopping fever. Go immediately the first days
(around 6-7th of January and 1st of July) to get
best pieces. Or wait a little to avoid the crowds of

29
people and piles of shopping bags around you. Las rebajas last about a month.

Good places for shopping are the many huge shopping centers where you can find the main most
commercial brands at the same place. For example Corte Ingls all over the city, El Maquinista, Diagonal
Mar, Glries, Lilla Diagonal, Arenas, Maremagnum, Gran Via 2 y Splau! en Cornell.

SIT DOWN!

Benches of Barcelona: In this city, you can sit down pretty

much anywhere. Over 100 years ago, Gaud equipped his
street lights on the Passeig de Grcia with seating
opportunities. Lately benches have become ever more
horizontal, for example on the beach. (Other examples of sun
lounger benches can be found in Jean Nouvels Parc del
Poblenou and the Parc de Diagonal Mar, designed by Enric
Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue.) The ubiquitous Barcelona
chairs have replaced benches in the old town.

SEEK AND HIDE

Getting hot? Taste frenzy! Ice cream:

- The home-made: Gelaaati! - Llibretera, 7. Gtic/ M Jaume I

- The original: Cremera Toscana - Canvis Vells, 2. Born/ M Jaume I
- The organic: Rosa Canina - Baluard, 52. Barceloneta/ M Barceloneta

Inner City:

- A secret garden - In the midst of the madness,

just off the Rambla slip through the glass doors of a
hotel, pass the friendly staff at reception, and walk into
the fresh open air. Petit Palace Opera Garden,
Boquera, 10. Gtic/ M Liceu
- Swimming with scenery The rooftop pool with a 360 view of the city is for guests only. But who
will know that you arent one? Look like you know where you are going (and have a room number
ready, just in case). Hotel Barcel Raval, Rambla del Raval, 17-21. Raval/ M Liceu
- Sounds of the streets Look for them behind the Cathedral.
- Heart of Darkness LUmbracle (The Palm House), Parc de la
Ciutadella/ M Arc de Triomf or Jaume I
- Shhhdont talk. Just follow the students into the belly of the
old water deposit, now a university library. Bring a book. And pay

30
 attention, so you know how to get back out. (Sandwiches for one euro and 50-cent coffees are
served in the cafeteria.) Biblioteca El deposit de les Aiges, Universitat Pompeu Fabra, Ramon
Trias Fabras, 25-27. Poblenou/ M Ciutadella
- Baby, what if we were on a boat, rolling on free waters, and the wind whispered in your ear, while we
never left the port... Yasanti, hotel boat with siesta service. 3-hour cabin and deck-chair rental for
two: 50 Euros (two drinks included). Old Port. Enter via Moll de Espanya (opposite Correos, as if you
were going to IMAX). T: 656962011

ART GALLERIES

Barcelona is boiling under the surface. The art scene may have calmed down a little lately. But still, the city is
awash with spaces that hum with the energy generated by creative expression, from tiny galleries founded
by a group of friends to well-funded foundations. The best time to hit the galleries is Thursday evening,
when the exhibitions are freshly installed and people pack in to take a gander and mingle over free wine.
Pick your scene, from bourgeois to batty, and be there when the bubbles burst.

Young intellectual scene:

- Espace Ample Ample, 5. Gtic/ M

Drassanes works with young French and Chinese
artist confronting themes of gender and identity
- Nogueras Blanchard Xucl, 7. Raval/ M
Liceu transformed completely for every
exhibition, so one day you can step into a swimming pool and, another into a model village.
- ngels Barcelona Pintor Fontury, 27. Raval/ M Liceu or Catalunya there are absorbing audiovisual
creations, photography and the odd installation, all by artists with international credentials.

Out of the ordinary:

- Montana Shop & Gallery Comer, 6. Born/ M Jaume I holds a firm grip on the artistic side of
graffiti. Get up-to-date information about the best murals in the city.
- Vallery Calabria, 85. Eixample Esquerra/ M
Rocafort the art space of the well-known Barcelona
design studio Vasava, which attracts the work of an
international pool of high-profile illustrators. The
shop features designer objects, books and limited-
edition prints.
- Eat Meat lAlzina, 20. Grcia/ M Fontana or Joanic a non-profit cultural association with a
penchant for artistic projects from the darkest parts of the human psyche. Famously wild opening
and closing parties.

31
The reign of silver gelatin:

- Kowasa Mallorca, 235. Eixample Esquerra/ M Diagonal

or Provena Spains best known photography gallery,
covering every possible genre.
- Fundaci Foto Colectania Julin Romea, 6. Grcia/ M
Diagonal dedicated to professional photography. On opening
night, this is where youll meet the cream of the citys professionals and collectors.
- Tagomago Santa Teresa, 3. Grcia/ M Diagonal works from a private collection, featuring edgy
talents and clear-cut themes.

Where stuff happens. (Please consult the programme):

- NIU Almogvers, 208. Poblenou/ M Llacuna experimental music and audiovisual performances of
the freakiest (and most interesting) kind.
- Espai Ubu Plaa Prim, 2. Poblenou/ M Poblenou a white cube half made of glass with high quality
photography and provocative video.
- El Escaparate Cotoners, 8. Born/ M Jaume I
a glass cabinet that holds exhibitions,
performances, recitals, concerts and participatory
activities.
- Antigua Casa Haiku Perill, 43. Grcia/ M
Diagonal a gallery that should be visited only on opening night, when giant piatas are smashed,
recycling containers are transformed into objects of art, and the party spills over into the streets.

Meet the bourgeoisie. You will be surprised. :

- Senda Consell de Cent, 337. Eixample Esquerra/ M Passeig de Grcia like the castes
headquarters.
- ADN Enric Granados, 49. Eixample Esquerra/ M Diagonal anything you see here is more pretty
than thoughtful.
- MITO Rossell, 193. Eixample Esquerra/ M Diagonal contemporary art for a gay audience
- N2 Enric Granados, 61. Eixample Esquerra/ M Diagonal
contemporary drawing or photography
- Joan Prats Rambla Catalunya, 54. Eixample Esquerra/ M
Passeig de Grcia - contemporary drawing or photography
- Fundaci Suol Passeig de Grcia, 98. Peixample
Esquerra/ M Diagonal contemporary art from Catalunya and
the rest of the world. Dont miss out Nivell Zero
- ProjecteSD Ptge Mercader, 8. Eixample Esquerra/ M Diagonal the kind of cryptic work that hovers
in the highest spheres of artsy-ness.
- Estrany de la Mota Ptge Mercader, 18. Eixample Esquerra/ M Diagonal - the kind of cryptic work
that hovers in the highest spheres of artsy-ness.

LIVE MUSIC

You want to go to a bar before dinnertime?! Dont you know

that you must never, under any circumstances, enter a bar

32
before 23:00h in this city, unless you want your night to end before the locals has even started? But the
concert starts now! The people who run this place must have been drunk when they drew up the schedule!

- Heliogbal Ramn y Cajal, 80. Grcia/ M Joanic crowded indie-music Mecca

- Jazz S Requesens, 2. Raval/ M Sant Antoni laid back jazz and blues den
- Convent Sant Augusti Comer, 36. Born/ M Arc de Triomp or Jaume I A publicly funded and edgy
free-for-all

You want to spend some more time outside, relaxing, not even noticing the crowds of people around you?
Yes, thats possible because the wonderful water-light-sound show of the Magic Fountain in front of the
Palau Nacional. It literally stops your breath. Dont miss it.

Fuente mgica de Montjuic - Plaa de Carles Bugas, Avinguda Maria

Cristina/ M Plaa Espanya - From 30th April to 30th September:
Thursday to Sunday, 9pm 11:30pm. From 1st October to 30th April:
Fridays and Saturdays, 7pm 9pm. Christmas and Easter: Thursday
to Sunday, 7pm 9pm.

You can visit also the Gran Teatre del Liceu, the Palau de la Msica
and the open air Teatro Grec with its wonderful garden, spectacles
and concerts in summer.

TAPAS

Tapas are little dishes of tasty morsels, to accompany a drink or be shared as

a meal. Nothing spells Spanish laid-back-ness and sociability as the tradition
of eating tapas. Its noisy. Its often messy. Its fun. Used napkins and cigarette
butts are thrown to the floor and the bill is split. Its always a good time. The
real fun about tapas is trying a lot of them. Start early, finish late.

Rule no. 1: Dont expect to get a table or even a bar stool. Just pick the first
free spot at the bar.

33
Rule no. 2: Be brave. At rush hour, nobody will come to take your order. There may not even be a menu.
Youll have to make yourself heard, check out what the
others are having, and listen to the staffs suggestions.

Rule no. 3: Looks can be deceiving. However it looks like,

you may be having the best clams in Barcelona, melt-in-
your-mouth Iberian ham or expensive seafood delicacy.

Rule no. 4: Know your terminology. Tapas are small, raciones

are big(er). Montaditos are canaps without the pomp.
Pintxos are tapas served Basque style. And with pintxos at
the bar, its every man for himself.

Rule no. 5: The ruder the stuff, the more they consider you
one of their own.

Rule no. 6: Theyre small plates. Order many.

Tapas crawl 1: Down and dirty

- Jaica Ginebra, 13. Barceloneta/ M Barceloneta Order chipirones (deep-fried baby octopus),
oimientos de padrn (green peppers with sea salt) and any other seafood dish in the display case
that takes your fancy.
- Bitcora Balboa,1. Barceloneta/ M
Barceloneta Order a salad, calamari a la plancha
(fried squid) and sardines
- El Vaso de Oro Balboa, 6. Barceloneta/ M
Barceloneta Order granjero con serrano (amazing
ham sandwich), atn picante (tuna in paprika) and, if
you want to splash out, solomillo con foie (filet
mignon with foie gras).
- La Plata Merc, 28. Gtic/ M Barceloneta
This tiny corner serves only three dishes: deep-fried anchovies, onions and olives; and Catalan
sausage on bread. All have been honed to perfection and should be accompanied by beer or wine in
a porrn. Youll figure out how to drink from it.
- La Bodegueta Rambla de Catalunya, 100. Eixample Esquerra/ M Diagonal Order sausages,
boquerones (anchovies in vinegar), ham, and cheese.

Tapas crawl 2: Upscale, uptown

- Taktika Berri Valncia, 169. Eixample Esquerra/ M

Universitat, T: 934534759 Just dive in for any
freshly prepared plate (and remember to collect
your toothpicks for payment)
- Cata 1.81 Valncia, 181, Eixample Esquerra/ M
Universitat, T: 933236818 Book the wine cellar
and fill it with a bunch of good friends. Order the
mini hamburgers with home-made ketchup
- La Taverna del Clnic Rossell, 155. Eixample

34
 Esquerra/ M Hospital Clnic - They make their own beer on the premises. Order bravas, caneln de
foie and any of the chefs specials.
- Paco Meralgo Muntaner, 171. Eixample Esquerra/ M Hospital Clnic, T: 9334309027 Order steak
tartar, pulpo encebollado (octopus with onion), pan con tomate
- Tapa 24 Diputaci, 269. Eixample Dreta/ M Passeig de Grcia, T: 934880977 Order huevos
estrellados (egg and chips), bikini de trufa (ham-and-cheese sandwich with truffle oil), and the
excellent house white wine at 10 a bottle.

Tapas crawl 3: Gourmet but youd never guess.

- Quimet & Quimet Poeta Cabanyes, 25. Poble Sec/ M Paral-lel

Point at any of the ingredients in the display and ask Seor Quim to
prepare one of his famed montaditos.
- Lolita Temarit, 104. Eixample Esquerra/ M Poble Sec You
either get here before 20:00h, or queue, or continue to the next stop.
Should you get in, order anchovy fillets and croquettes.
- Casa Lucio Viladomat, 59. Eixample Esquerra/ M Sant Antoni
Order a selection of Lucios tapas and Maribels black beans with black
pudding.
- Bohemic Manso, 42. Eixample Esquerra/ M Sant Antoni or
Poble Sec Order bravas, ensaladilla rusa (Russian salad) and grilled foie
on asparagus.

Top 5 patatas bravas: Most people say the best bravas in Barcelona are made at Bar Toms (Major de Sarra,
49), but here some more recommended spots:

- Bohemic Manso, 42. Eixample Esquerra/ M Sant

Antoni
- La Taverna del Clnic Rossell, 155. Eixample Esquerra/
M Hospital Clnic
- El Onofre Magdalenas, 19. Gtic/ M Urquinaona
- Bodega La Palma Palma de Sant Just, 7. Gtic/ M
Jaume I
- La Esquinica Fabra i Puig, 296. Nou Barris/ M
Vilapicina or Virrei Amat

Others:

- El Xampanyet - Carrer de Montcada, 22, next to the Museu Picasso. Born/ M Jaume I Another nice
and small place. Simple but fun and they have a good homemade cava - the well-known Xampanyet.
Try some of their famous anchovies, olives and some other tapas.
- Cal Pep Pl. de les Olles, 8. Ciutat Vella/ M Barceloneta Some call it the best one in Barcelona, but
maybe a little expensive.
- Bar Lobo Pintor Fortuny 3. Raval/ M Liceu or Plaa Catalunya
- Pinotxo - La Rambla, 91& M Liceu - restaurante mediterrneo y tapas bar

35
 FOOTBALL

FC Barcelona vs. RCD Espanyol

Bara
- Pros: Los culs (the butts). Catalan
nationalism. Unicef. Cruyff. The Dream Team.
Puyol and Iniesta. Messi. That free-kick by
Ronald Koeman at Wembley. Watching the
greatest players in the world. Winning
everything. Games showing in every bar.
Countless friends.
- Cons: Exorbitant ticket prices. An opera
theatre instead of a football stadium. Qatar
Foundacin. Catalan nationalism. A paranoid
tendency to indulge in wild anti-Bara
conspiracy theories.
- Live it: At one of Baras penyas (fan clubs)
all over the city. Or buy a stadium ticket from
a Servicaixa cash machine.
Espanyol
- Pros: Los pericos (the parakeets). Alfredo
di Stefano. Uhlsport. Raul Tamudo.
lvaro. Enjoy empty streets and
restaurants when Bara play. New
stadium, locals call it La Bombonera
(pralines box). Cheaper tickets. Raucous
fans. No pesky tourist tag-alongs. A real
fans team, with real ups and downs.
- Cons: Long metro ride to the stadium.
Severe outnumbering by rival fans.
Depleted opportunities for boasting in
bars.
- Live It: Get a season ticket for the Estadi
Cornell-El Prat. Or get in contact with
one of Espanyols fan clubs
(www.fcpe.cat).

36
Where to watch it:

Football is best enjoyed in the company of wise men and cheap beer,
in a place where little has changed since 1991 and the only other item
on the sepia-coloured walls, besides the faded photos, is a large flat-
screen TV. Just dont lean on the bar.

- Els Moderns Margarit, 44. Poble Sec/ M Poble Sec

- Bar Leo Sant Carles, 34. Barceloneta/ M Barceloneta
- El Porrn Doctor Trueta, 225. Poblenou/ M Poblenou

The hymns:

FC Barcelona RCD Espanyol

37
 Tot el camp
es un clam Espanyol, nostre crit,
som la gent Blau Grana Espanyol , surt del pit .
Tan se val d'on venim Espanyol, Espanyol, Espanyol
Si del sud o del nord
ara estem d'acord A la grada i a la gespa
estem d'acord l'Espanyol ens ha unit,
una bandera ens agermana. esportiva la bandera
blanc de cor i blau d'esperit.
Blau Grana al vent
un crit valent Sn colors forjats en la noblesa
tenim un nom que amb honor portem per tot el mn
el sap tothom com un cant d'amor a nostra terra,
la terra de l'Espanyol.
BARA, BARA, BARA.
Jo t'estimo, Espanyol.
Ets l'orgull de l'esport
Jugadors i de Catalunya glria.
Seguidors Jo t'estimo, Espanyol.
tots unit fem fora
son molts d'anys plens d'afanys Espanyol, nostre crit,
son molts gols que hem cridat Espanyol , surt del pit .
i s'ha demostrat Espanyol, Espanyol, Espanyol
s'ha demostrat
que mai ning no ens podr trcer. Sempre al teu rival respectes
fent ress del nostre anhel,
Blau Grana al vent per al damunt de la gespa
un crit valent no hi ha cap de ms valent.
tenim un nom
el sap tothom D'avis a nts, en noble nissaga,
som una sola generaci,
BARA, BARA, BARA. el cor encs i la ment molt clara
fidels sempre a l'Espanyol.

Jo t'estimo, Espanyol.
Ets l'orgull de l'esport
i de Catalunya glria.
Jo t'estimo, Espanyol.

Espanyol.

DINNER

38
 If you think that after a three-course lunch, dinner would be light, you underestimate
the power of the breakfast-slipping lifestyle. The most important meal of the day,
Spanish dinner is an extensive, social and above all late affair. Whether youre opting
for a sandwich, a wine-fuelled cold meal with friends or a seven-course tasting menu,
one things for sure: you wont be eating before half eight. And if youre doing like a
local, dont even think about eating before half nine. Stamina is the word.

Find them if you can!:

- Can Ravell Arag 313. Eixample Dreta/ M Girona, T: 934575114 a classic

Spanish dining room where waiters in livery serve tender meats and the lack
of a menu suggests that since youre here, you dont care too much about
prices.
- Passadis del Pep Pla de Palau, 2. Born/ M Barceloneta, T: 933101021 One
of the citys finest seafood restaurants.

Style Icons:

- Il Giardinetto Granada del Peneds, 22. Zona Alta/ M Diagonal or Fontana, T: 932187536 This
place celebrates style over substance, and it is all the better for it. To make the most of this unique
dining experience, be sure to dress for the occasion, eat
fashionably late, and drink only dirty martinis.
- Flash Flash Granada del Peneds, 25. Zona Alta/
M Diagonal or Fontana, T: 932370990 Serviced by
cheeky old Catalans in crisp white suits brandishing epic
menus and razor-sharp comebacks, this is retro dining
Spanish-style: the self-proclaimed tortillera offers a crash
course in over 60 varieties of a national treasure, the Spanish omelette.

Mediterranean and Spanish cuisine:

- Fonda Gaig - Crcega, 200/ M Hospital Clnic

- El Mordisco - Passatge de la Concepci, 10, Rambla de Catalnuya/ M
Diagonal
- Cinc Sentits - Aribau, 58/ M Universitat
- Comer 24 - Carrer Comer, 24/ M Arc de Triomf
- Vivanda - Major de Sarria, 134/ Ferrocariles Catalanes Station Reina
Elisenda has one of the best terraces in Barcelona.
- El Lobito - Ginebra, 9/ M Barceloneta
- Cheriff - Ginebra, 15/ M Barceloneta a place to eat paella
- Roig Rob - Carrer Sneca, 20/ M Diagonal
- Ca L'Isidre - Les Flors, 12 e/ Ronda de Sant Pau y Carrer de Sant Pau/ M Paral-lel

True Romance:

- 18 dOctubre Julin Romea, 18. Zona Alta/ M Diagonal

or Fontana, T: 932182518 traditional dishes according to the
great-grandmothers recipes.

39
 - Me Pars 162. Eixample Esquerra/ M Hospital Clnic, T: 934194933 low lights, jazz music, superb
Vietnamese-American food, and personal treatment
- Pla Bellafila, 5. Gtic/ M Jaume I, T: 934126552 picture-book lovey-dovey restaurant. Candle-lit,
discreet service, modern and light food. Book the table at the bottom of the staircase leading to the
2nd floor for maximum intimacy and bathe in clichs.

No need to dress up:

- Aviso nArai, 5. Gtic/ M Jaume I the vibe may be decidedly scuzzy but the food is top notch.
Freshly made salads, oozing quesadillas and towering sarnies come as a welcome change in a
lettuce-fearing city. And all at a price that saves your pennies for a night of tequilas, rose vendors,
and general mayhem.
- Madame Jasmine Rambla del Raval, 22. Raval/ M
Liceu Come for food and enjoy tasty sandwiches
and hearty specials. Talk to the fit barman and hell
tell you where the after-dinner party is happening.
- Restaurant Ba Fang Yuan Sicilia, 91, on the corner
with Ribs/ M Arc de Triomf or Marina Chinese
tasty food, good portions, very good cuisine, and
nice prices. Dont purchase many dishes at a time
(especially if you eat slowly) because you will get them all together. Monday to Friday midday, good
all-you-can-eat buffet.

Meat-free meals:

- La Cerera Baixada de Sant Miquel, 3-5. Gtic/ M Liceu, T: 933018510 This Bohemian cooperative
is taking the concept of home-made to a new level: a flour mill in the back allows them to make
sandwiches and pizzas in great varieties, only surpassed by the
amount of teas and fruit shakes on offer.
- Ssasmo Sant Antoni Abat, 52. Raval/ M Sant Antoni,
T: 934416411 Provides a romantic atmosphere, a stellar wine
list and cuisine from all around the Mediterranean thats so
tasty, you dont have to worry about bringing your meat-
eating friends. Especially if they like to sample elaborate gin
and tonics for dessert.

Others:

40
 - Tapioles 53 Tapioles, 53. Poble Sec/ M Poble Sec, T:
933292238 Surrounded by soft lighting, homemade
bread and an open kitchen, youll feel at home.
- Au Port de la Lune Plaa de Sant Galdric, 1. Raval/ M
Liceu, T: 932703819 Here the cheese is stinkier than a
Barceloneta drain in August, the atmosphere quainter
than Amelies bedroom, and the steaks rarer than a
Frenchman who will admit he prefers a Spanish red to
a Gallic one. There is no Ketchup, no Coca-Cola, no
Diet Coke, and there will never be.
- Xemei Passeig de lExposici, 85. Poble Sec/ M Poble Sec, T: 935535140 The platters of
langoustines are as fresh as they come, the mozzarella is from their own farm in northern Italy and
the tiramisu sings with expensive booze. Just make sure youre on time!
- Shunka Sagristans, 5. Gtic/ M Jaume I, T: 934124991
From your prime spot at the bar, watch a small army of chefs
as they toss scallops, roast toro ever so lightly, and roll eel
nigiri.
- Cal Pep Pl. de les Olles, 8. Ciutat Vella/ M Barceloneta
Great seafood. Full, but dining at the bar is fun! Book in
advance! There is also a Cal Pep tapas bar next door. Some
call it the best one in Barcelona, but maybe a little expensive.
- Agua - Pg. Martim de la Barceloneta, 30. Barceloneta/
M Ciutadella Vila Olmpica - Splendid location with a terrace
on the beach and Mediterranean seafood at its best. Booking recommended.
- Bravo24 - Plaa de la Rosa dels Vents, 1 E floor/ M Barceloneta steakhouse
- Restaurante Igueldo - Rossell, 186/ M Diagonal or Ferrocariles Catalanes Station Provena
steakhouse
- Tram-Tram - Major de Sarri, 121/ Ferrocariles
Catalanes Station Reina Elisenda French restaurant
- Parco Sushi Sashimi - Passeig de Gracia, 119/ M
Diagonal Japanese restaurant
- Isabella's - Ganduxer, 50/ Ferrocariles Catalanes
Station La Bonanova Italian restaurant
- Dime Av. Doctor Flemming, 11/ M Maria Christina
or tram T1, 2, 3 Station Lilla - gastropub
- Bimbas Restaurant Av. Diagonal, 652/ Maria
Christina or tram T1, 2, 3 Station Numncia

And of course you can try the restaurants from the lunch session, although at higher prices.

41
 UNDER THE STARS
La Caseta de Migdia:

- Its an enchanted clearing that could be straight out of a fantasy island

movie, only with electric lighting. Oh, and a DJ. And deck chairs. And a barbecue.
And the lights of a whole city below you as you sip your mojito. But apart from that,
its pure Disney.
- June to August, Wed to Sun from 20:00 until 01:00h (02:00h on weekends).
To get here take bus 55 to Parc de Montjuic and follow the signs saying Mirador de
Migdia.

Sala Montjuic:

- If it happens to be July, pack your picnic basket

with some blankets and a bottle of wine and head to
Montjuic Castle for some O.V. cinema under the stars with
a highbrow programme courtesy of Verdi cinema. Films
start at 22:15h, but come early to catch the concert at
21:00h, enjoy the sunset and actually get a space.
- Entry 5 Euros. Shuttle buses leave from Plaa
Espanya.

LATE NIGHT PAMPERING

Aire de Barcelona:

- Fashioned like an Arab public bath, with pools of different temperatures and massages on slabs of warm
marble. And their opening hours are completely out of whack.
- Passeig Picasso, 22. Born/ M Arc de Triomph or Jaume I, 25 Euros for a bathing session 08:00 to 02:00h

Termes La Garriga:

42
 - Although not so late at night you can go and relax to La Garriga, Carrer del Banys, 23, 36km away from
Barcelona, 30 Euros for half a day)

A NIGHT OUT IN BCN

What people fall in love with are the nights in Barcelona. Salty tapas and cold beers. Walking everywhere. It
can last forever.

BARS

Magnificent concoctions:

- Gimlet Rec, 24. Born/ M Jaume I

- Dry Martini Aribau, 162-166. Eixample Esquerra/ M Diagonal
or Hospital Clnic
- Negroni Joaquin Costa, 46. Raval/ M Universitat you dont
have to wear fancy shoes to enjoy an ice cocktail

Swing it:

- Harlem Jazz Club

Comtessa de Sobradiel, 8.
Gtic/ M Jaume I - bands on Tuesday to Sunday, open dance floor
- Big Bang Botella, 7. Raval/ M Sant Antoni - relaxed vibe

Places with good vibrations:

- Sif Espalter, 4. Raval/ M

Liceu
- Ambar Sant Pau, 77.

43
 Raval/ M Liceu or Drassanes - the perfect place for a pre/post dinner/party/drink/chat with
friends/lovers.
- Pesca Salada Cera, 32. Raval/ M sant Antoni - all good vibes and no frills
- Mau Mau Fontrodona, 35. Poble Sec/ M Paral-lel high-ceilinged former factory-turned-lounge
club. A favourite for pre-party drinks, venue for short film and video screenings and perfect for
organizing anything. Become a member and get cheaper drinks.

The good old days were sometimes calmer:

- El Nus Mirallers, 5. Born/ M Jaume I serve beer and

provide a perfect environment for a private conversation
- Bar Pastis Rambla Santa Mnica, 4. Raval/ M
Drassanes A tiny remnant of turn-of-the-century Paris
- LAntic Teatre Verdaguer I Calls, 12. Born/ M Jaume I
or Urquinaona an alternative theatre with the best hidden
terrace in town

And often not:

- El Cangrejo Montserrat, 9. Raval/ M Drassanes

- Marsella Sant Pau, 64. Raval/ M Liceu or Drassanes a lonely
leftover from the days when the Raval was called Barrio Chino
and young sailors got drunk on absinthe to make the prostitutes
outside look better. Actually, the only thing thats changed is the
neighborhood name. Try the absinthe. Your glass comes with a
lump of sugar, a fork and a little bottle of mineral water. Hold
the sugar on the fork, over your glass, and drip the water onto
the sugar so that it dissolves into the absinthe, which turns
yellow. The result should give you a warm glow.
- Tinta Roja Creu de Molers, 17. Poble Sec/ M Poble Sec
anarchic and surrealistic version of a Buenos Aires cabaret.

Heart warming:

- Rouge Poeta Cabanyes, 21. Poble Sec/ M Poble Sec

- Les Gents Que Jaime Valncia, 2286. Eixample Dreta/ M Diagonal

Fresh air for beautiful people:

- Angels & Kings Hotel ME. Pere IV, 272. Poblenou/ M

Poblenou sixth-floor terrace, outdoor pool and stage
reserved for rock bands.

44
 - Shoko Pg. Maritim de la Barceloneta, 36. Barceloneta/ M Ciutadella open-air lounge complete
with tourists, locals and plenty of study-abroad students.
- Mellow Beach Club Pg. del Mare Nostrum, 19-21. Barceloneta/ M Barceloneta Fashion brand
Cusco has brought Ibiza to Barcelona with this beach-side lounge club.

Bars for men and daring girls:

- La Penltima Riera Alta, 40. Raval/ M Sant Antoni

This is where locals go for alternative music after work.
- La Bata de Boatin Robadors, 23. Raval/ M Liceu
Kitsch and intimate/ tiny place full of alternative guys.
- Plstico Bar Sant Ramon, 23. Raval/ M Drassanes A
cocktail of anything goes with coolness mixed with garage
punk and ironic pop. This bar is part gay guys, part girls with
edgy haircuts, and part guys blurring the lines in between.
- Museum Seplveda, 178. Eixample Esquerra/ M
Universitat A video bar where we can lounge around like aristocrats.

I want a real party!:

- La Cazalla Arc de Teatre. La Rambla, 25. Raval/ M Liceu

or Drassanes Maybe Barcelonas smallest bar. (Open
May to October) It has been in existence since 1912 and is
the only place where you are allowed to drink on the
street.
- Betty Fords Joaqun Costa, 56. Raval/ M Liceu a wild
bar in the Raval which packs with fashionistas, models and
those who adore them, greeting each friend or fiend as
they walk by.
- Pepino Nou de la Rambla, 44. Raval/ M Liceu official HQ to Barcelonas suecas y sudacas (i.e.
Swedish girls and Latin American guys) hipster culture.
Others:
- Fantstico Passatge Escudellers, 3. Gtic/ M Drassanes
- Vinilo Matilde, 2. Grcia/ M Diagonal or Fontana
- Cassette Est, 11. Raval/ Metro Drassanes
- Blondie den Roca, 14. Gtic/ M Liceu
- Switch Francisco Giner, 24. Grcia/ M Diagonal
- Manchester Valldonzella, 24. Ravall/ M Universitat
- Electric Travessera de Grcia, 233. Grcia/ M Joanic

DRUGS

45
The smell of weed pursues you as you walk along the beach. People squeeze into toilet booths in pairs in
bars and clubs. And Plaa Reial at night is alive with the humming sound of a dozen men whispering Coca,
hash, marijuana, ecstasy. Drugs are everywhere in this city. The UN has declared Spain the country with the
most cocaine consumers in the world, and a good chunk of those sit in Barcelona surpassed in number
only by marijuana smokers. Its true that recreational drug use is socially more accepted here than elsewhere.
And even policemen are known to enjoy their joints.

The Law:

- Drugs are illegal in Spain. However, consumption and possession of illegal substances for own use
are no criminal offense and carry no prison sentence. (Consumption in public carries a fine.) If you
get caught with drugs, the first rule is to be nice to the police whatever happens to you now
depends on their goodwill. Second, its crucial that you state that the drugs are for your own
consumption only. Generally an amount that can be consumed by one person in 3 to 5 days is
deemed credible by the authorities, but of course it can be deemed lower.

The Market:

- Strongly discouraging from buying off the street. Its physically dangerous, both because of the
questionable quality of the drugs and because you might just get robbed. If you want to buy, do it
through a contact. If you dont know anyone, the barkeeper might. Be discreet and he wont mind
you asking.
- Average market prices: Marijuana: 7 per gram. Hash: 3 per gram. Cocaine: 60 per gram. Ecstasy:
6 per pill. MDMA: 60 per gram. Speed: 40 per gram. LSD: 12 per tab.

DANCE & CLUBBING

Wild things, long nights are Barcelonas trademark. Go to www.bpremium.com and write your name on the
guest list of various clubs for free entry.

Some of the classics:

- Los Juanele Aldana, 4. Eixample Esquerra/ M Paral-lel This is not a place to watch Flamenco. This
is a place to dance it.
- Razzmatazz Almogvares, 122 Barcelonas
best club, a five-floor structure that covers everything
from minimal techno to electropop to international live
acts, popular amongst students.
- Bikini Avg. Diagonal, 547 high-profile,
mature, and international programme.

46
 - BeCool Joan Llongueras, 5 more local club.
- BeGood Sancho de vila, 78 more local club.
- City Hall Rambla Catalunya,2 perfect option for nights when you cant decide.
- La Terrazza Poble Espanyol Barcelonas prime open-air club for years which still throws some
good parties.
- Moog Arc de Teatre techno hell -hole you will learn to love.

On the beach are some clubs popular amongst foreigners more than locals due to their location, music and
bar prices. This is where people dress up, show-off their tans and dance to R&B.

- CDLC Pg. Martim, 32

- Opium Pg. Maritim, 34
- Catwalk Ramn Trias Fargas, 2

The local counterpart to this dress-conscious and well-

heeled crowd parties uptown, in the clubs above
Avenguda Diagonal.

- Elephant Pg. dels Til-lers, 1 - the flashiest

one, a hybrid between an Ibiza lounge club
and a luxury hotel in Goa, popular amongst young people who wear white and drive noisy sports
cars.
- Sutton Tuset, 13 similar crowd like in Elephant

- Luz de Gas Muntaner, 246 grand theatre and popular concert venue with
mostly over 40s people and pop music
- Otto Ztz Lincoln, 15 little clubbier, with hip-hop and house music, but just as see and be seen.
- Mondo Moll dEspanya - open-air lounge club
- New Oven Gran Va, 674
- New place, a bit posh, but apparently worth a visit, next to Sutton in Sarri, http://blingblingbcn.com/

Temporary venues pop up in artists studios and on rooftops, especially during

the summer. Just pick up flyers, ask friends and
people who work in bars to find out about them.

- La [2] de Apolo Nou de la Rambla, 111

You need a dramatic haircut to attend, poppy and

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 hip. Except on Mondays anti karaoke night, when you best show up with no haircut at all.
- Apolo Nou de la Rambla, 111 Its packed every night. Burlesque shows Aphex Twin, graffiti battles,
Cuban orchestras, rocknroll, they have it all.
- The Boiler Club Vallmajor, 33 Every 2nd Saturday of every
uneven month of the year at Jazz Room Soul, Rhythm & Blues,
Boogaloo.

Plaa Reial - The one stop party block:

- Pipa Club Plaa Reial, 4 First-floor flat still serving drinks when everybody else has gone to sleep.
- Sidecar - Plaa Reial, 7 Occasional concerts, sweaty parties, always packed.
- Jamboree - Plaa Reial, 17
Starts with jazz and ends with hip-hop,
soul and a lot of intimacy.
- Clandestino - Plaa Reial, 8 A
trip down to a basement and into the
Sixties.
- Macarena Nou de Sant
Francesc, 5 Tiny techno club, but all a legend.
- Marula Caf Escudellers, 9 A slick club with funk and soul.

In the municipalities around Barcelona, beach bars are given more leeway to throw parties, and Sant Adra is
really throwing its weight around. Just make sure you know how to get back. Beach Party:

- Mac Arena Mar Beach Club

Avinguda de la Platja, Sant Adra de
Bess/ M Sant Roc house music,
particularly wild on Sundays.
- La sal Platja del Cavalo,
Arenys de Mar/ R1 train from Plaa Catalunya Laid-back
beach bar with ace regular live music programme.
- Ghoa Avinguda de la Plaja, Sant Adra de Bess/ M Sant Roc Large open-air club with pool and a
lot of electronic music.
- Chiringuito Calamar Platja del Pra t. R2 train
from Pg. De Grcia to El Prat de

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 Llobregat Beach bar with sporadic big parties.

AFTER CLUBS

- El Armario - Riereta, 11. Raval/ M Liceu

- What about that place where you enter the
backroom through a hole in the wall, through
a wardrobe and it looks like a squats living
room full of people who are making their own
music because there isnt any?
- La Camara Bolivia, 319. Poble Nou/ M Bess Mar, from 02:00 to 10:00 h We could head out into
the industrial wasteland. At least there theyve got music and the whole affair is a little dirtier.
- Papillon Off carrer Princesa, around Plaa de la Llana. Born/ M
Jaume I, Walk around and a big guy with a button in his ear picks
you up. Open from about 3:00h Or that place thats been there
forever; its like a bar with pool tables, and no one ever knows how
to find it?
- 242 Entena, 37. Eixample Esquerra/ M Rocafort, opens until
midday I think we should go old-school. You know, clubby,
dark, bouncer in the bathroom forming two queues, and people with wild looks in their eyes.

It will be light soon but youre not yet quite tired. The night has been going on since forever. And still you
need one last adventure:

- Mercat de la Concepci Valencia, 334.

Eixample Dreta/ M Girona - Buy flowers and give
them to the first person you meet on the street.
- Xurrera Trbol Crsega, 341. Grcia/ M
Diagonal. On weekends open all night. Go for an
early breakfast and ask a drunk youngster to swap a
churro for a croquette.

The rest is history.

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