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Abstract
A theory ispresented forthe transmission of waves passing through a rigid verticaL thin
barrierextending from above the water surface to some distance below the surface.
This theory isbased on consideration of WAVE MOMENTUM transmission. Labora-
tory data are presentedto show that thistheory isuseful forthe engineering designstandpoint.
Introduction
abovc the water surface to some distancebelow the water surface. This barriermay
be sidingly mounted on a pilestructure, forexample. One of the problemsinthe design
of such a structure isto determinethe distancebelow the freesurface, to which such a
barriermust extend in order to function effectively.
A theory of such a structure isdeve]opedhere together with the results oflaboratory
testson a model structure under a variety of wave conditions.
TheoreticalDevelopmenti)72},3)4)
Three theories are given,one developed herein and two due to F. Ursell and
R. L. Wiegel.
Ursell'sTheory fOrDeep Water
In 1947 Ursell developed a theory forthe partial transmission and partiatreflection
of gravitywater waves in deep water fora fixedvertical infinitelythin barrierextending
from the water surfttce to some depth below the surface.
He fbund that
Hi K,(2rrdlL) '"'"'''(1)
KT= =IJ';'2LI?(2zd!L)+Ki(2zd/L)''
H}
K.-=-tL--V,t-n-h2,Lts.A-h,h,,d2#2 h=ZiJ
.........(2)
where k denotesthe wave number, h iswater depth,d isthe submerged lengthof vertical
thin barrier.
y.
n. WAVE
$.VV:L x
SemA wo
v h
u
72ip-=O --ny(3)
or
72e-O `.`....(4)
lfr
== cy-eB sinh k(h+y) cos kx i(7)
(bef)y-:n==O '''''''''(8)
we leadan equation:
(9)
. n- fisinh k(h+n) cos kx
+tk2a3(coth2kh+t)cos3kx+ (10)
we derivethe followingequation:
+tk2r3(coth2k(h-d)+tlcos3kx, i(14)
where r=-a[sinh{k(h-d)}lsinhkh].
(15)
The momentum of unifbrm flow betweenthe water surface and some leveld located
below the wave trough isgiven by
ML =pcdL+ -S-ka2pcdLIcoth i
kh- -fii'IPh--k(h
k(h m d.rr)
ifk,COkShh
........a6)
)
On the other hand, the momentum of stationary wave between V=O and e==cd
isgivenby
agw == -S:
S::Sye
,O,
p- dx cly =-
pc dL ---"" 7)
We findfinally
the waye momentum between"=O and V==cd as follow:
u'=-iL
ao[Ii;[ =ck2a2 -CP-gh,i2.k6-(,hk-hd) -.ao)
o o
+
/// %
/
k
'
{oJ'Lio
o5 x oft(ts o,s
L7
-x-- o.2o
O 20
O,30
x o{3o
l.O 1.o
O t 3 4 5 O 3 - 5
va',2
y62ctL
,,st
Fig,2 Distributionof the wave momentum.
fll61.x.{fiI,
Fig.3 Distribution
of the wave energy.
Case 1. SurfaceObstacle
Suriace,ObetaeLe.
z twe. F.L,
7
MR.,i,;,:.iibMk
d-i
Ml
MT.
,
'.--nivi7.tMr
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The fbllowingassumption have been made in working out the theory of wave
2: The only momentum transmitted isthat from the bottom to the depth d; that
is,the momentum between the water surface and the depth d isreflected (see Fig.4),
3: Water is homogeneous, and external forcessuch as those due to the earth
rotation and the lunarand solar attractions are neglected, becauseof the comparatively
small body of water contained in the challnel. With these assumptions, a theory of
momentum transmission and refiection by a surface obstacle can be developed as
fbllow:
y.RigidThinBaniet u
S.WL VVhyEx,S-VVL Wav
:g}gca
oustacle
(a). (b).
Fig. 5 Definition
sketch of the surfaoe obstacle,
- pc2k2Uf -(21)
M}-m2s6 4kA
si.h
(Si"h
4kh+4kh)
Mk = -2sP6C
ii2hH,kkh
(sinh 4kh + 4kh)
2s,kihH4'`kh
- 4k (h- d) + 4kd} ....
==
2sPi {sinh
4kh sinh (22)
M' = pc2k2HS (Sinh
4kh +4kh)
2s6 sinh 4kh
2,,k
=
4k(hmd)+4k(h-d)}, (23)
2;6C .2hH4fk"n{sinh
M,=M.+M.+fM, -(24)
SubstitutingEqs. (21),
(22)and (23)into Eqs. (24),
we obtain, after development.
(i-f) -(
)` )`=Ki+K#
f:f +(
,H,k}
-''''"(25)
where KT and KR denote the transmission coeMcient and refiection coeMcjent respec-
tively.
The portion of wave momentum transmitted between the bottom and the depth d
below the still water levelis
and the portionof waye momentum reflected between the water surface and the depth
d below the stillwater levelis
ii:k
pc2k2Hf
ii,6
4 h- in )L+4.k-dl.,,........(27)
4 k (h d.s
h".,illla2
-iiLlf(k}..,.'2s6rs'ififf
(,ii h . 4ih
the portionof the waye heighttransmitted between the bottom and the depth d below
the still water levelis
-
n-d'5.
tl:F, -=V.Mf =-Vsinh4,k,Shi,
,itlis,k +.,.....(2s)
ill}
zs-V-
k.(2,in,d)+`kd,
.........(2g)
which shows that the ratio of the reflected to incidentwave heightisproportional to the
fburthpower of the ratio of the reflected to incidentwave momentum fiux.
Transrnission
of Wave Pastarigid VerticalThin Barrier 433
Y'
R;3;Bd.t'!,".r- Y'
wave. S.WLWave.-
`'
T
x.
(h-dx h. (h-d).ilndh,
(a). (b)
Fig. 6 Definitionsketch ef the subrnarged obstacle,
The precedingassumptions are also rnade in working out the theory of wave trans-
mission and reflection by a submerged obstaclg. The theory in this case, can be de-
veloped as fbllow:
MT ==
{sinh
-2-sP6C,2ik.2h{l2' 4kh-sinh4k(h -d) +4hd} . ---(32)
h-
In a similar the portionof surface wave momentum
manner, transmitted belween
the water surface and the depth d below the stillwater levelis
and the portionof wave momentum reflected between the bottom and the depth d below
the stillwater levetis
- d)
.4.<k..--gtn-b.Ak(h.:.d) + 4k
=
(h"'-' ---(34)
A4} sinh 4kA-[Fttk-h'
The portionof the wave heighttransmitted between the water surface and the
depth d below the still water levelisgivenby,
- ''rm4hi.
'(h,
'
l-VsinhU4'k''h'
il;f.-VIII //tisifit
k k--
hdJ'+'Znk-ff,
+`(3s)
-h-:"a>',
tZl: -V-i.'
i--=-Vsinh4,k,.khi,,d
-+(36)
the fourthpower of the ratio of the refiected to incident .wave momentum flux.
WaveHbHsH-H3H2 Hswave{}enerare
Abs,rber
---
')twt
l
Ri;dT;'Hl.NHb:waveqatjte
Barr}er
Fig, 7 Arrangement forthe testchannel,
The experiments were O.7meter wide O.9 meter deep and 20 meter
performedusing a
Water Depthl.I25,
um
30,35, 40 (cm)
hd
H',/LhiL
T i,s, io,is,2o (cm)
O.O05--O.1
O.08NO,5
maee
Transmission Wave Past Thin Barner 4a5
#ag
of a ng!dVertical
/j
va
s......e $
s/,ee
fintva
ge
--su
"stnt w
tuSmuzae
#/$
di
ff
,,l
{ltpt
wwr"wrlimava eeefiS:M2
$gei
illi
::if.lf,figmiigS/-mo'/Yy",es,asan2:ik
ny
veIWI,pt "
ee
/pa, re f '/\
"lj '
k
yi#' k
g$k
11ee
1eei /l
ts
//
ee eett
/ ss
Infront of bdrrier
/j es
tw ke
ew
ew
ee it
ee,l, /i
di
E ge
" '
/
'
'
'
ew
g
'
i
ee
'ee
ee iew
'k
ss$ es
,
'/ iee
,.
x ,,
, , ,, In lce of Barrter
,/ew,eatwee ,
"i{i
#fi'#:W
ES,i$i
li,i,i
pmiXg,iS/lg7,/E,,l,l
:Sist
ma
fizvaIinlffi,X
epmmgee
ecss
m
es enffffwh
ge.k
ee
utfigem
gs$,, w
mpfivpm:}ee
Reflected wave
Fig 8 Samplewave record
Results
The results are shown m Fig 9rv t7,compared with the momentum transmission
theory
It appears that the theory is useful to the engmeering, but any improvement in the
theory is needed The trend of decreasem the value of the transmtssion coeMcient
HT/Hi with mcreasmg wave steepness is consLstent This would be expected from the
factthat, all other conditions bemg equal, the wave momentum increases as the wave
steepness is increased, hence the momentum loss due to separation at the bottom of
the barrierwould increase with increasing wave steepness, resultmg m decreasem the
[,o i.o
N...ql
UtC.=O.o8 b[.=o-io
KT
KT
o.5 o.S
XNXX
x
o o
o O.5
% LO
o 9'kO.5Fig, LO
Fig. 9 10
LO LO
!>C-= O. [4-
0eo ha=o.16
KT o
fo
Nbsx.l
Noo x..Eal
o-5 o.S
\
x
o o
o clih o.5 LO o
% 05 LO
Fig,11 Fig,12
i.o LO
bc=o.tT
"si,g,,.ag
be=O,20
ooe
KT KT
coogx,,l]
O.5 o.5
xt)tfII
o o
o % o.5
Fig, 13
LO o
% Fig.I4
o5 l,o
l.O l.O
ha --O,2B
tt=O,2-
KT
KT
o,5 oS x
oN8 oee
DiiS<iii
Oe
o
o
oo oo
gtkos 1.0
% o.s [.o
Fig. 15 Fig.16
1.o
ISi .
=O.B2
o5
,Nog
o
o
O
%05 kO
Fig.17
Fig. 9-17 Comparisen of the experimental results with calculated results,
Conclusion
The mornentum transmission theory predicts
the transmission coeMcient adequately
for some engineering purpose. A consistent trend of decreasingtransmission coeM-
cient with increasingwave steepness isevident in the laboratorymeasurements, The
portionof the transmitted wave heightto incidentwave heightisproportionalto the
fourthpower of the ratio of the transmitted wave momentum to the incidentwave
momentum.
References
T. H. Havelock; Phil,,Mag., 8 (1929),
1)2)3)4)5)6) 569
W, R. Dean: Proc,,Cambridgc Phil., Soc.,(1945),231
E Ursell: Proc., Cambridge PhiL.,Soc., (1947),
374
R. L, Wiegel: Proc.,A. S. C. E., Vol. WWI, (1960), 1
S, Sato: Hydrodynamics,Morikita, (1963)
K. Kanayama: J. S. L D. R, E,, Vol. 56 (1975),
29