THE BARBERS' MANUAL

water and soap. The hands and

skin can be disinfected by wash-
ing with a germicidal soap or us-
ing a light solution of Formalin.
A 1 per cent solution is used for
this purpose and is made by add-
ing
1 oz. formaldehyde

yz gal. water (boiled or distilled)

ANTISEPTICS
Antiseptics are agents which
restrain the growth of Bacteria.
A disinfectant must be an anti-
septic, but an antiseptic need not
be a disinfectant.
Alcohol when used full strength
is one of the best antiseptics
known. It is also the safest and
Jar for sterilizing solution.
most economical cleansing me-
all foreign substance before ster- dium that can be used and is es-
ilizing. A solution for this pur- pecially good to cleanse electrical
pose can be made by using.
appliances such as electrodes for
2 oz. formaldehyde
(boiled or distilled) water
Hy Frequency, Faradic and Gal-
yz gal.

Then
place them in the steril- vanic batteries. A pad of cotton
izing cabinet until they are to be is saturated with alcohol and
used. used them.
to cleanse
DISINFECTANTS Alcohol
penetrate the lay-
will
Disinfectant is an agent capa- ers of the Epidermis and destroy
ble of destroying germs. Dis- bacteria located between them.
infection differs from steriliza- Boric Acid is a powdered anti-
tion in this regard. Sterilization septic which can be used for pads
isthe absolute destruction of all for eyes, also as a cleansing me-
organic life whether infective or dium and for hot packs in infec-
not. It is, therefore, more than tion. When used for this pur-
a disinfectant which destroys the pose prepare in the following
germs of infection only. Infec- manner
tion is denned as disease spread Boric acid crystal, V/\ oz.
Water,
from sick to well by direct or in- y2 gal.

direct innoculation.
A room may be disinfected by
fumigation with Formaldehyde
or similar gasses. Linens can be
disinfected by
When used in small quantities
as a cleansing medium for Hy-
dro-vacu, it can be prepared in
the following manner
1 teaspoonful of boric acid crystal
boiling in hot 1 cup boiling water
Page one hundred thirteen
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 Peroxide of Hydrogen is removing
the use of the fingers in
a cream from the jar. A small
mild antiseptic and can be used spatula or spoon that can be ster-
full strength. It can be used on ilized should be used instead.
the skin. Cosmetics must be removed
Rules for making solutions: by means of cotton gauze pledg-
5 drops to 1 oz. makes 1% solution
25 drops to 1 oz. makes 5% solution
ets or paper tissue, or other ster-
5 drops to 1 oz. makes 1% solution ilizable materials such as soft
8 drops to 1 pint makes 1 to 1000 solution
60 drops to 1 gal. 1 makes to 1000 solution
towels.
1 teaspoonful equals 60 drops Powder must be in sifter top
Ordinary glass, 8 oz.
Teacupful, 6 oz.
containers or covered powder
1 pint, 16 oz. boxes.
1 quart, 32 oz.
All creams and lotions and
The Beauty Specialist is privi-
other cosmetics must be kept in
leged to use the following chem- a clean and closed container.
icals in preparing solutions: Hands must be thoroughly
Alcohol, this is used full strength
Bichloride of Mercury, 1 to 1000 cleansed and sterilized before and
Carbolic Acid, 10% after each patron.
Iodine, 75%
Lysol, 1%
DEFINITIONS
Formalin, 4%
Asepsis Absence of septic matter or free-
dom from infection.
Formalin is considered the
cheapest of the different solutions AsepticFree from Septic Material. Ab-
sence of living pathogenic micro-organ-
used for sterilizing. It does not isms.

stain or corrode metal. A

Antiseptic substance destructive to

The hands should be thor-

poisonous germs.

BacteriaThe lowest form of vegetable

oughly disinfected; the nails
kingdom consists of a single cell, the
should always be cared for espe- basic principle of which is everywhere
except in high altitudes, deep water and
cially if your work has been on
deep soil. It requires to live, food,
the scalp or face. Personal hy- moisture and temperature of 70 to 90
degrees.
giene is very important in a
Barber Shop. Jackets should al-

Disinfection The act or process of free-
ing from Bacteria by means of chem-
ways be clean as the personal ap- icals. You can sterilize instruments
and materials, but you disinfect your
pearance of an operator adds hands by dipping in a 1% solution of
Formalin.
much to the popularity of the
GermA microbe or bacillus.
shop. Germicide A chemical agent, capable
destroying.
of
Other methods of sterilization
besides those already mentioned InfectionDisease spread from sick to
well by direct of indirect innoculation.
can be accomplished through Pathogenic
ducing.
Germs that are disease pro-
Decomposition, by strong
SanitationThe application of measures
acids, to promote public health.

Burning, with fire. Sterilization Simply means extreme

The Laws of Sanitation gov- cleanliness, which prevents disease, by
killing the germs or neutralizing their
erning Barber Shops, prohibits action.
Sterile Free from germs.
Page one hundred fourteen
Lesson Eight

Subject

ELECTRICITY
Embracing
1. Galvanic 6. Voltage
2. Faradic 7. Amperage
3. High Frequency 8. Lights
4. Negative 9. Red
5. Positive 10. Blue

PLECTRICITY is a current of the unbroken skin, or for coagu-

motion or some other form of lation (to form a clot).
action of that form of matter Galvanic current is produced
called ether. Ether permeates by immersing plates of zinc or
all matter, pervades all space and copper in an exciting fluid, such
is affected by the matter of the as salt water or acid, and con-
body in which it is. It cannot be necting them with a wire. sin- A
weighed, seen or measured. As gle cell of a battery
used in the work of the Barber is made.
Specialist it is available in the This cell produces the Galvanic
shape of dry cells as used for bat- or constant current.
teries or 110 voltage used for The acid produces a chemical
lights and power purposes. decomposition by attacking the
zinc, causes a current to flow
Electricity as used in the work
through the fluid from the zinc to
of the progressive barber is in
three forms: Galvanic, Faradic,
the carbonand then out from the
carbon through the connecting
Hy Frequency.
cords.
GALVANIC CURRENT The galvanic current can be
Galvanic current is a current used through a wall plate which
is an electrical instrument which
of electricity that has a decided
chemical effect on the tissues. It
turns electricity galvanism
into

is an uninterrupted current flow- or Faradism, or through the use

ing constantly in one direction of a dry cell battery.
It is often necessary to de-
from the positive to the negative
termine the polarity (this is the
pole. It is always used in Elec-
chemical action or reaction which
trolysis, also for cataphorisis in-
takes place at the point where the
troduction of medicines through
current enters and leaves the
Page one hundred fifteen
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL
to hold the
binding post, cell or battery). would be required
to
This is done by immersing the electrode which is attached
the
tips of the conducting cords in a negative pole, rather than
the
glass of water, never metal. Ob- positive as is usual, while
sponge,
serve the "bubbles" which appear, liquid is applied to the on them.
A few may appear on and is attached to the positive
the positive and "stick," but the pole. This is called Castophor-
negative releases them. esis. A metallic taste in the
It is not necessary to test for mouth is usually experienced
polarity on a dry cell battery, as with the Galvanic current.
this is already determined by the TO CONTRACT PORES WITH
wiring or construction of the bat- GALVANIC CURRENT
tery. It is very important to re- The galvanic current is often
member that each pole has a defi- used by some operators at the
nite action upon which we de- close of an ordinary facial to
pend for results. contract the pores. When this
ACTION OF POSITIVE POLE IN method is used, it is applied over
GALVANIC CURRENT the entire face in a rotary move-
This has a sedative effect. It ment for about 10 minutes with
decreases pain and also reduces a felt electrode. The poles are
inflammation; has an astringent reversed also for this purpose
effect and contracts the pores it
and this operation is called Gal-
hardens, also dissolves all metal vanic Contractility.
except gold, platinum and alumi- CAUTERIZATION WITH GAL-
num. It is the pole to which the VANIC CURRENT
water or moist pad is attached in
Galvano Cauterization as used
Electrolysis.
in Electrolysis, is the change of
ACTION OF NEGATIVE POLE IN the galvanic electricity into chem-
GALVANIC CURRENT
ical action and the cauterization
This dissolves, softens and
is caused by the releasing of the
liquifies, therefore, it is always
acids and alkalies. This is the
used for the needle when electro-
destruction of living tissue, as in
lysis is done. It also increases
the removal of warts and moles.
inflammation, does not dissolve
metals. FARADIC CURRENT
FORCING MEDICINES INTO THE The faradic current is an in-
SKIN terrupted or induced current. It
Forcing medicines or liquids is an alternating current and has

into the unbroken skin can only little or no chemical action on

be done with the Galvanic Cur- the tissues and is of high voltage
rent. It is necessary to reverse and low amperage. It is especi-
the polarity, that is, a patron ally beneficial in facial and scalp
Page one hundred sixteen
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL
work, through finger manipul- and superficial effect on the tis-
ations, the current passing sues.
through the fingers. It acts as a deep cellular mas-
sage. Cellular massage is more
It is a current that develops
penetrating and
beneficial than
the muscles, circulation is im-
muscular massage. This cur-
proved by it, sleep is induced and
mental faculties are strengthened. rent of electricity is applied
Through it stimulation is sup- through an insulator. This is of

plied, and wasted tissues are built thin glass or an electrode that is

up.
silvered inside. When this elec-
HY FREQUENCY trode has been freed from air and
Hy Frequency is a current of then sealed by turning on a high
high voltage and low amperage. voltage current, it throws off a
It is claimed that it produces purplish light within. It is

stimulation and must, therefore, through this light it gets its name
have sufficient electric . force to of Violet Ray. When the bulb
''jump," but must be of such vol- electrode is held a slight distance
ume as not to be difficult to con- from the face it acts as a stimu-
trol, and when brought into con- lant and as a germicide as
in
tact with the skin, it produces
treatment of Acne, etc., and this
ozone and antiseptic gas. The
High Frequency generates great stimulation is deeper and more
lasting than any other method.
quantities ozone during its
of
A Volt is a unit of push power
flow, similar to phosphorus. This
and electro force.
ozone is oxide of oxygen and one An Ampere is a unit of cur-
of the most beneficial and health-
rent strength.
giving elements known to man.
It also improves glandular activ-
LIGHTS
ity, stimulates oxidation, in- Red Light has very strong heat
creases elimination and has an rays. It has astringent and tonic
anesthetic effect. It passes effect on the tissues and renders
through the body without meet- it resistant to bacteria. It is

ing any apparent resistance and used in the treatment of large

does not stop anywhere in the pores to dry the mud pac. It
body long enough to cause any also brings the blood to the sur-
discomfort to the nerves or mus- face and in this manner promotes
cles,yet this penetrating vapor- the absorption of creams, etc.
like current will saturate every Blue Light has an antiseptic
cell in the body from head to foot, effect on the skin. It has seda-
filling it with new life and re- tive effect on the nerves and can
newed resistance, as it has a deep be used as a germicide. It also
has penetrative qualities.
 Never
Caution use electricity around water when attached to street current.
Page one hundred seventeen
 Nine
Lesson
 Subject

CHEMISTRY
Embracing
6. Reactions
1. Elements
2. Chemical Change 7. Radicles
3. Analysis 8. Acids
4. Nomenclature 9. Volume
10. Stoichiometry
5. Combinations
indebted to
For this article we are

Victor Olsen, Chemist

Chemistry
And The Compend of
By Dr. Leffmann
 ELEMENTS Forms of Chemical Change.^ These
are combination, decomposition, and re-
Chemistry is an abstract-concrete arrangement. Combination is the
science that investigates the composi-
association of substance to form a

tion of matter.
new substance; decomposition is sep-
Matter anything that Rear-
is
aration into raw substances.
occupies in which
rangement refers to cases
space and has weight. without
new substances are formed
Changes may be physical or chem- or decomposition^ Under present
combinationdecomposition can-
general knowledge
ical. Physical change
in is
No
of indefinitely.
that which occurs without change not be carried on
of mag- for ex-
composition. The development matter what substance is taken that
ex-
netic properties in iron is a good ample of a periment, limits will be reached
most
physical change. The frequent instances are incapable of further decomposi-
physical For ex-
of true tion by any method known.
decom-
change are those known as changes of ample, may by heat be
chalk
to exist col-
state. Matter is considered posed into two substances, the
one a orless
liquid,
in at least three states solid, gas, called carbon dioxid ;

one called calcium

and gaseous. The change from other a white powder,
takes prod-
of these conditions to the other place oxid, or, commonly, lime. These
of chalk and
under the influence of change ucts are different from the from
necessarily not rep-
temperature, and is not each other, but they do
compo- for
attended by any alteration of resent the limit of decomposition,
in the con- made
sition. Such is the case by special methods each can be
of ice into water, or water lime
version to yield two substances. The
In many and a
into steam, or the reverse. yields a solid (called calcium)
into a dioxid
cases the conversion of a solid gas called oxygen; the carbon
gas, is and a
or of a liquid into a yields a solid (called carbon)
liquid,
composition, from
attended by change of gas which is the same as that
physical sub-
and, therefore, is not merely a the lime, namely, oxygen. The
proper incapable of
change. Chemical change, the stances thus obtained are
process
study of chemistry,
The
is that attended by alteration of further decomposition by any as yet
composition. known. By proceeding in this
rot- chem-
rusting or iron, burning of coal, woy with all known substances,
of animal and vegetable
matter of decom-
ting ists have determined limits
chemical that all
are familiar instances of position, and have established
change.
Page one hundred eighteen
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
material objects istry is to
may be regarded discover what
as elements are
formed from a present in any
limited number substance and
of sub- what are
stances. *
These the laws
are called governing the
elements action of
and are the
generally elements upon
supposed t> be each other.
un- Analysis and
decomposable
bodies, not Synthesis.
capable When the
of composition of
conversion into a substance
is
each other, but deter-
this view has
mined by
been modified separating and
by recent dis- recognizing
coveries. the elements
contained in it,
About the pro-
cess is called

eighty analysis; when

substances
are produced by
elements combining
are now elements
known. Each the process is
called synthesis.
substance known
is either one of Following is a
these elements or tabulated list

an as- of the
sociation of more common
two elements
or more of with their
them. symbols and
Consequently all atomic
substances are weights.
di-vided into two
classes,
elementary and
compound. The
main object of
chem-
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 Chemists have been generally
of NOTATION
does exist abbre-
the opinion that a limit In chemistry, a symbol is an
is up element
and that every substance made name of an
in
and incap- viation of the ;

of particles of definitepar-
size able of is used, as
most cases an initial letter
further division. Such
equally hard, C for carbon, P for phosphorous.
ticles are very small, and names be-
of the mass Since some elements pro-
have ginning
no matter what the nature
with the sameletter,
are called
which they constitute. They atoms (a distinction is obtained by as-
indivisible) per
word signifying ;
letter to the most
matter consists signing the single common, and
any mass of elementary attaching small
letters
or less
of a collection of a greater
to the other initials. Thus C stands
It is believed CI for
number of these atoms.
perfectly
that the for carbon, Ca for calcium,
atoms are rarely free, but associated ele-
in groups,
called chlorin, Cd for cadmium. Some
in differ-
ments have different names
molecules. When, therefore, the sul- the sym-
molecules are ent languages, and for these
phur is powdered, the name.
other. bol is formed from the Latin
merely separated from each by
Iron, for instance, is represented
 one kind of lead by Pb (plumbum)
Fe(ferrum) potassium silver by Ag
Molecules consisting of ; ;

molecules; (argentum) ;

atoms are called elemental

those containing moremolecules.

than one
kind by K (kalium).
between
are called compound To express combinations

Atoms and molecules are

believed to elements in other words, to
express
vibration,
body
be in a constant state of the rapidity the composition of a compound
increases with are
of which moleculethe symbols
there- or of a
is, letters
increase of temperature, and to be written together like the
liquid than collection of sym-
fore, more rapid in the Such a
rapid of a word.
in the solid state, and still more in bols! is called a formula.
condition.
the gaseous only rep-
The symbol, however, not
Chemists have
Atomic Weights. resents the element, but
one atom of

never been able to render visible in- The expression CaO not only
but the it.
dividual atoms or molecules, cal-
shows a compound consisting of
developed
progress of research has cium and oxygen, but also
indicates
principles. of each
some general that itcontains a single atom element.
elemem two atoms
1st. That the atom of each Ca0 shows
2 that
weight. one of
has a constant and definite ' of oxygen are present and
cal-
cium. In
hydrogen is expressions
2nd. That the atom of writing these certain rules are
the lightest of all. followed:
place small
3rd. That combination takes 1st. To multiply an atom, a
action right
among most atoms under the number attached to the lower
is hand, as
of chemical affinity. seen above, where 2 indi-
princi- formula
Starting with the first two ples cates two of oxygen.
consist-
The GILO:: shows
obtained a combination
numbers have been which are
the four of
supposed to represent ing of two atoms of carbon,
the oxygen.
weight of each atom compared
to
hydrogen and two of
These numbers by
atom of hydrogen. 2d. To multiply several atoms
figure is
are called atomic weights. the same number, a large
of equal
In any compound the sum
all
placed in front. Thus 2HC10 is

mo- large figure

the atomic weights is called the lecular to H2CI2O2; that is, the
its molecular expression.
weight. Thus,
multiplies the whole
weight is 40. of an ex-
To
Na = 23
3d. multiply a portion
in use.
= 16
pression, several methods are
multiplied may be
The part to be
the

H= 1
proper
placed in parentheses, and

right-hand
number attached to the
40 for instance,
corner. Ba(NO.) a ,
Page one hundred twenty
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 equals BaN,0 ; C H,(N02
6 )A equals NOMENCLATURE
C 6 H N 8 2 9 . The effect of the
are
The names of chemical compounds
small regulated by a system which de-
figure is limited to the part within pends essentially upon the employment
the parentheses. This method is es- of certain terminations.
pecially
adapted to multiplying sym- In the old division of the elements
bols the middle or at the end of into
in a metals and non-metals, the metals
formula. To multiply the symbols at were usually distinguished by the ter-
the beginning of a formula, it is usual mination "um." A change of this
to point termination into "a" indicated combi-
off or punctuate the part to
be
affected, and place a large figure in nation with oxygen. Potassium (K)
front. to becomes by oxidation potassa (K20) sodium (Na)
Some
irregularity prevails as
;

becomes soda (Na20)

the particular sign used, the comma
;

and magnesium (Mg) becomes magnesia

semicolon both being employed. (MgO). As the names of many of
It
is sufficient for the student to bear the common metals do not end in
in
mind that a punctuation mark or "um" unless the Latin name is used,
arithmetical sign in a formula will this
rule is only of limited application.
stop the
multiplying effect of the large The tendency of the modern nomen-
figure at the beginning of the expres- clature is to make but little change in
sion.
For instance, 2C 2 H.,, H N 2 is names ending in "um."
equal to
C4H:oH 2 N ; similarly, in Chemical compounds which contain
2FeS0 only two elements are called binary
4 + HC1 the letters following
the compounds. They are usually named
plus sign are not affected by the
figure by joining the names of the elements
If
2. desired carry the
it is to
present and attaching to one of them
multiplying effect to the end of the the termination "id." This termina-tion
expression,
theses;
it is enclosed in
paren- may be conveniently regarded as
thus, 2(FeS04 + HC1). Here all an equicalent of the phrase "nothing
the letters are equally influenced. else;" that is, wherever it occurs it
Since indicates that nothing else is present
the symbol of each element
except what is expressly mentioned.
every
represents one atom, it follows that Potassium iodid, for instance, can con-
symbol carries with it an idea tain nothing but potassium and
else
of
quality. HC1 means not merely iodin ; copper
sulphfd can contain
that
hydrogen and chlorin are in com- nothing but copper and sulphur.
bination but that the amounts by
weight
atomic
are in the proportion of the PbO Lead oxid.
weights c, 1 ; H) to
*".
(atomic weight NaClSodium chlor/J.
35.46 (atomic weight CI).
the weight is AgBrSilver bronuW.
When symbol is multiplied, the
stance,
also multiplied. For in- 3 represents 2 H
parts by
weight
of H to 16 of O ; HgCl2 rep-
resents
200 parts of mercury and 70.92 The syllable "id" is usually attached
X
(35.46 2) parts of chlorin. to the members of the oxygen, chlorin,
 Empirical, and Structural
Rational nitrogen and carbon groups, and pref-
Formulas. When
symbols are writ-
ten erably to those of the first two groups.
Thus, a compound of iron and carbon
so as to show merely the total
is
number of each of the atoms present, called iron carbid, but a compound
the
formula is termed empirical. When of carbon and chlorin is called carbon
chlorid.
some arrangement of the atoms is in-
dicated the formula is termed rational. In many books, especially in older
A structural formula is one that is works, the word "of" will be
intended to show the supposed rela- found
tive
positions of atoms in space. frequently used in the names of com-
H PO 3 a is the empirical formula of pounds. Instead of copper nitrate,
hypophosphorous acid; (HO)H 2 PO we see nitrate of copper, for potas-
is the rational formula. sium iodid, iodid of potassium. This
is not regarded as proper form.
Page one hundred twenty-one
 ;

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

 As elements may combine in sev- cyanogen, and the entire compound
eral proportions, forming several dif- is called potassium cyanid.
ferent compounds, this termination id Among the compounds containing
does not suffice. The bodies Cu 2
three elements are those which arc
and CuO
are both properly called called salts. If zinc or zinc oxid be
copper oxid, because they contain only placed into sulphuric acid, a zinc salt
copper and oxygen, but they are dif- is formed, in this case zinc sulphate
ferent bodies. In the same way, SO> also by direct union of many oxids
and S03 are both sulphur oxids. The for instance, when calcium oxid, CaO,
distinction is made by prefixes, forms with carbon dioxid, C02 we get,

Cu 2 Copper suboxid.
calcium carbonate, CaCC>3, which is
a salt.

CuO Copper monoxid (formerly Most salts contain three elements,

proto was used.) of which oxygen is one, and the names

SOa Sulphur dioxld (formerly

are made by joining the names of the
other two elements and adding to them
deut or bin was used.)
certain syllables which not only in-
CO Sulphur (also
triox'xd ter- dicate the presence of oxygen, but also
oxid.) partly the amount. These syllables are
CCU Carbon tetrachlorid or quad- ate and ite. The former indicates the
richlorid.
greater quantity of oxygen. The pot-
PCls Phosphorus pentachlorid.
assium sulphate and potassium sulphite
Some elements form compounds in both contain oxygen, but the former
which the proportion is as 1 to IV2, (sulphate) contains the more oxygen.
but as fractions are not allowed in Sodium nitrate and sodium nitn'te con-
formulas, the whole expression is mul- tain the same elements, but their com-
tiplied by 2, which gives the proportion position is NaNO. and NaN0 2 , re-

2 to 3. FeOlVk becomes, therefore, spectively.

FeaOs. These are called sesqui-com- It has been pointed out that the
pounds. Fe2 Oj is iron sesquioxid. The syllable id could be regarded as equi-
word sesqui means one and a half, and valent to the phrase "nothing else."
conveys the idea that the relation be- In the same manner, the syllables ate
tween the two elements is as 1 to IV2 and ite may be regarded as meaning
(2 to 3). "something else", generally oxygen.
Thus, while in sodium sulphio* but two
In the case of few binary compounds elements are present, sodium sulphate
especially when they are obviously
and sulphite will contain three.
supersaturated, the term "per" is em-
ployed in preference to syllables indi- These two terminations are not suf-
ficient. Potassium, chlorin and oxygen
cating number. Thus : 2 is called H unite in four dinfferent proportions,
hyldrogen peroxid rather than hydro-
forming KCIO4, and KClOs, KC102
gen dioxid. It is doubtful if anything ,

important is gained by this method. KCIO. In such cases the important

or most common compound is dis-
There is no
uniform method for tinguished by the termination ate, and
giving names compounds containing
to the one containing the next lower
more than two elements. Sometimes amount of oxygen by the termination
the system is the same as that just ite.
given; all the elements are mentioned
The other compounds are indicated
and the termination "id" is attached.
by the use of certain extra syllables,
Thus KHO is potassium hydroxid,
hypo and hyper, the latter now gen-
NaHO is sodium hydroxid. In other erally abbreviated to "per."
cases a portion of the compound is
included under a group name, and this LAWS OF COMBINATION
is joined with the names of the

other elements according to the above The great law of chemistry is the
rule. Thus KCN
is not called potas-sium law of constant proportion. Every
carbonitrid, but is calledCN chemical compound is definite in its
Page one hundred twenty-two
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

nature, the proportion of its constitu-

ents being constant. Water, for in-
stance, when pure, always consists of
11.2 per cent, hydrogen and 88.8 per
cent, of oxygen.

Elements, however, are not limited

to one proportion of combination, but
in each proportion a different body is
produced. Thus, there is a compound
containing about 6 per cent, of hydro-
gen and 94 per cent, of oxygen. It
is, however, very different from water.

So, also, there are five compounds of

nitrogen and oxygen, all different bod-
ies. When the proportions present
in different compounds are expressed
in terms of atomic weight, it is gen-
erally found that a simple multiple
relation exists. For instance, the two
compounds of hydrogen and oxygen
have the formula, respectively,

H2 Water.
H3O2 Hydrogen dioxid (peroxid.)

The compounds of nitrogen

five
and oxygen are N20, NO, N2O3, NO*,
N 3 5
.

The to a second
fact has given rise
law, or rather rule, called the lazv of
multiple proportion When elements
combine in more than one proportion,
the higher proportions are simple mul-
tiples of the lozver.

The same simplicity and constancy

of proportion is observed in the com-
bination of compound bodies. The
combining weight of a compound body
equals the sum of the atomic weights
of its constituents. Thus, lime (cal-
cium oxid), CaO, has the combining
weight
Ca = 40.1

= 16

CaO = 56.1

When lime and water are mixed they

combine in definite proportions of their
molecular weight
H =
3
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

These are not the only compounds expresses that on bringing together
that be formed from these ele-
can silver nitrate and hydrochloric acid,
ments, but they are those which show a chemical change occurs by which
only a slight tendency either to take silver chlorid and nitric acid are pro-
new atoms or give up what they al- duced. This statement also shows the
ready possess. exact relations by weight in which
The number of hydrogen atoms with the substances react, so that if, for
which any element combines is called example, the amount of silver nitrate
its valency. used is known, the amount of sodium
nitrate and silver chlorid produced
REACTIONS can be calculated. (See later, under
"Stoichiometry.)
Chemical symbols are employed not
only to show composition, but also to
The sign =
is still generally
with reactions, but to avoid suggestion of
used

show exactly the nature of the chem-

algebraic equations the sign > is
ical changes which occur when dif-
coming into use. It will be used in
ferent substances are brought in con-
this work; it should be read "pro-
tact. When so used, the expression
duces" or "results in." In writing
is called a reaction. Strictly speaking,
reactions, three difficulties are en-
the statement in symbols is the "equa- countered: 1st. To know whether a
tion of the reaction", but the shorter
given change will take place. 2d. To
term is generally used. Some com- know the quantities of the bodies to
pounds, much used for producing re-
be used. 3d. To know the nature of
actions, are called reagents. When the resulting bodies. These difficul-ties
vinegar is poured upon marble, it may be taken up in order. 1st. In
is
usually said that the marble is cor- the simplest cases, the nature of the
roded, but, in fact, the vinegar is equ- reaction will be determined by the
ally acted upon. Both substances are affinities of the elements as governed

changed incomposition, both are rend- by their electrical relations, the change
ered unfit for their original uses ;
taking place in such a way that the
in element having the stronger electric
other words they have not only acted, affinity will drive out and supplant the
they have reacted, and are, therefore, element of similar but weaker affinity.
both reagents. When chlorin acts upon the bromids
A substantially an expres-
reaction
is they are decomposed, the bromin being
sion of the result of an experiment, expelled, and bromin, in turn, expels
and, when correctly written, gives the iodin from combination. Therefore,
proportion in which bodies are to be such reactions as
used and the proportion of the result-
ing substances. Speaking absolutely,
the correctness of any equation is not KBr + CI KC1 + Br
assured until the experiment is made
and the result analyzed but the pro- ;
KI +Br KBr + 1

gress of chemistry has made known

certain laws of change,
enable
one to predict, or infer, many results
without the necessity of actual obser-
vation. Every now and then, however,
the analogy fails, and experiment dis-
appoints the suggestions of theory.
Reactions are written by placing in
proper proportion and connected by
+ signs the formulas of the bodies concerned,
= are of importance.
then writing the sign
which are simply illustrations of the general
electrical relations of elements con-
cerned. If these affinities were the
only active causes of chemical change,
the subject would be quite simple, but
circumstances may modify the play of
affinities, so as to produce an endless
variety of chemical action. All the
modifying influences are not yet known
but some of them are understood, and

or

and following this by the for- (a) Insolubility. When in any
mulas of the resulting bodies. For liquid substances are brought together
instance, which are capable of forming a body
insoluble in the that insoluble
AgNOi+NaCl-*AgCl + NaNO.
liquid,
Page one hundred twenty-four
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
compound will be produced in spite The ease with which hydrogen is
of the general relations of affinities driven out of combination may be
This influence of insolubility is the regarded as due to its volatility, as
basis of a large number of tests and it is a gas even at low temperatures.
other chemical operations.

(c) Concentration. Chemical action
When formation of the insoluble
the isoften governed by the proportion
compound would require a powerful of substances. If water vapor is pas-
chemical agent to be set free, the
sed over red hot iron, iron oxid is
change will not take place, unless, of
formed and hydrogen is set free; if
course, the added substance is stronger
the hydrogen is passed back over the
than the one to be liberated. Carbonic
iron oxid, steam is formed and iron
acid forms with calcium a body nearly
set In the first case, the water
free.
insoluble in water, but this body can-
not be formed by passing carbonic is excess, and exerts an oxidizing
in
influence in the second, the hydrogen
acid into calcium sulphate. The rea-
;

son is shown at once by examining the is excess,

in and exerts a deoxidizing
conditions of the experiment. The influence.
reaction would have to be CaS04 + It will be seen to be a deduction from
H C0
2 3-*CaC03 (insoluble) +H*SO,
these statements that no substance can
that is, sulphuric acid would be set
be set down as absolutely the strong-
free. The activity of H2 C0 3 is under est in affinity. Chemists cannot de-
ordinary conditions, so much below
termine, for instance, what is the
that of H2SO4 (see pp. ,
,
,)
strongest acid or the strongest alkali,
that the former will not drive out the except under specified conditions. Un-
latter. The
condition becomes changed der ordinary conditions, the greater the
if theaction of the carbonic acid is degree of ionization, the stronger the
assisted by some substance which will acid or base. Sulphuric acid ionizes
react with sulphuric acid and will pre- readily, hence is a very strong acid.
vent it being set free. CaSC>4+Na2- 2d. The proportion in which bodies
CO3 will produce immediate action react is determined by their valencies.
resulting in CaC0 +Na S0 3 2 4 . This Let it be required to write the re-
reaction illustrates a common method action between mercuric chlorid and
of keeping the powerful affinities in potassium iodid. The formulas are
abeyance, and thus allowing second- HgCl2 and KI, but the bodies will

ary influences full play. Some of the not react in this proportion, for the
arsenic tests show the principle strik- Hg will require I 2 and CL will require
ingly. Arsenous acid added to cop- K2. The proper reaction is HgCl 2 +
per sulphate produces no action, be- 2KI=HgI2 +2KCl. In the same way,
cause the affinity of the S04 is too antimonous sulphid and hydrochloric
strong, but by adding a little alkali, acid can only act upon each other in
the strong affinity this has for SO* the ratio Sb2 S3+6HCl because Sb be-
assists in breaking up the copper sul- ing a triad, Sb2 will combine with Cln,
phate and immediately a precipitate of and S being dyad, Sa will require Ho.
of copper arsenite falls.
chemical change occurs
(b) Volatility.
This is the second
3d.
when two
If a
given substances are brought
influence that disturbs ordinary affini- in contact, the nature of it will depend
ties. If a body is capable of being principally upon the electrical rela-
converted into a gas, this fact will tions of the ions concerned. In the
diminish its chemical power fixed sub
stances that have ordinarily less affinity
;

reactionHgCl2 +H 2 S, the or.lv possible

result is the combination of S with
will drive it out of combination. Boric
acid, for instance, is one of the weak
Hg and H with CI, as is shown at
once by placing the proper signs over
acids, yet at a red heat it will decom-
pose sulphates. The cause is, in the
the elements,
main, that at this temperature sul-
phuric acid is volatile, while boric acid
+ +
is fixed.
HgCl 2 H S.
2
Page one hundred twenty-five
 : :

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

Such a combination as When hydrogen is passed over the

iron oxid the reaction
+ + is

HgH 2 or CUS Fe,04+4H3^Fe +4H,0 3

is improbable, since like electrocitis Both actions can, therefore, be ex-

do not attract. In beginning with re- pressed in one statement, thus
to
actions, the student will do well
place the proper signs over the ions Fe3 +4H O^Fe 2 3 4 +4H a

and these will be useful guide and

control. When acids or salts, contain- Usually one of the reactions is more
ing three elements, are part of the re- likely to occur than the other and this
action, the positive sign is put over may be indicated, if desired, by a
the hydrogen or the metal, and the
heavier arrow.
ele-
negative sign over the remaining
ments
+ - +++- RADICLES
Ba(N03) J +K SO^BaS04+2KN0
2
3
A radicle is any group of atoms
having unsatisfied valency the ; num-
The placing of
the single sign over ber of the unsatisfied degrees is the
two elements simply an evidence of
is valency of the radicle. The following
the fact that in ordinary reactions these formulas illustrate the principle. The
two elements act as a unit, that is, an degrees outside the parentheses indi-
ion.
cate in each case the valency of the
The following formulas will further radicle, being the difference between
illustrate the general principle: the valencies of the constituent at-

+ +_++
AgNO+NaCl-AgCl+NaNoi

/ v 11 \ r / v 11 \ 1 / iv in \ 1

v\ t
oJ Vno,/ UnJ
+ +
H,0+Cl.-*2HCl+0 / iv 11 \ 11 /in \ 1 / 1 iv \ in
V CO/ VHO / VHC /
+ ++ + - + +-
BaCU+KHSOr >BaS04+KCl + HCl The electrical relations of a radicle
are generally determined by the elec-
 In the last reaction, the electro-posi- tricalcharacter of the preponderating
tives K and H may seem to be in
valency, but not invariably. While
union, but this is not the case. Each the combining capacity and general
is independently united to the SO4, functions are dependent on the un-
which is a dyad. The formula show- saturated valency yet, in chemical
,

ing the ionization might be written combinations, the whole molecule takes
K, part, and hence the electrical char-
acter is influenced by that of each
H SO* ( v I\ atom . .

Reversible Reactions. Many reac-

present. Thus in I mjj )
!t
mav
tions can take place in either direction, seem that the nitrogen valency would
that is, the products under given con- only give to the radicle indifferent or
ditions will under other conditions pro- intermediate electrical relations, but
duce the original substances. The experiment shows that this is a group
experiments mentioned in the para- having distinctly positive affinities;
graph on "concentration" onp. 21 are the four atoms of positive hydrogen,
instances. When steam is passed over though insufficient to saturate all of
hot iron the effect is represented thus the nitrogen valency, yet impress on
the molecule their function.
Fe5 +4H*O^Fe 04+4H3 3
Page one hundred tiventy-six
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

In many cases the influence of the

preponderating valency is more de-
v
( " \
cided. Thus in ( -kjq J the oxygen
valency is in excess, and the radicle
is negative.

The general chemical relations of

radicles depend on ionization. If the
compounds containing them ionize
readily and to a large extent, the so-
lutions will be active and each radicle
will take part in reactions as an ele-
ment. If the compound does not ion-
ize the radicles will not react readily.
The carbon show
compounds of
very well the principle on which the
valency of a radicle depends
I V
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 hydrogen be-
complete ionization, ion. The
also remains in the negative
pro-
comes the positive ion, and the oxy- number of hydrogen ions that are
determines
elements, duced from any given acid
gen forms, with the other
that the basicity of the acid. The
the negative ion. Hydrogen, is above
molecule
not associated in the original on ion-
group, formulas are re-arranged thus
with a negative substance or ization :

Empirical
Name formula
Rational

Sulphuric acid H.SO4

Nitric acid HNOi
Phosphoric acid HsPC>4

Carbonic acid H 3 CO>

Chloric acid HCIO,
acid..HiPOi
Hypophosphorous
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

The activity of these bases depends positive ion, but remains with the oxy-
like the activity of acids upon the gen (or other member of the oxygen
ionization. The hydrogen in the pres- group). The following examples will
ent case, however, does not become the illustrate these points

Empirical Rational Ionization

 Name formula formula formula Acidicity

+
Solium hydroxid NaHO NaOH Na.OH monacid
Barium hydroxid BaH.Oa Ba(OH), Ba,(OH), diacid

When acids and bases are mixed, some of it is left unchanged. The
mutual re-arrangements occur. The
reacting substances are largely ion-
hydrogen ions of the acid combine
ized, but one of the products, water,
with the hydroxyl ions of the base is but slightly ionized ; it follows that
the positive ions of combine
the base a discharge of energy must occur in
with the negative ions of the acid. such reactions. This, is usually mani-
The resulting compounds as will be fested the form of heat, reac-
in
seen by the annexed reactions are
tions of the type shown below be-
water and a compound derived from
ing always attended by evolution of
the acid by substitution of its hydro-
heat. Such a reaction is termed exo-
gen by some other positive. These
thermic. Reactions attended by ab-
latter compounds are called "salts."
sorption of heat (which are unusual)
If the amount of base is not sufficient are termed endothermic. Care must
for complete reaction, only part of the be taken not to confuse the term "salt"
hydrogen ion of the acid is removed,
with the common name of sodium
and an acid salt is produced. If the chlorid.
amount of base is larger than required,
Illustrative reactions
Base
 : ::

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

 Theoretically, therefore, and fre- The ion of an acid is sometimes
many acid.
be called the residue of the For instance
quently practically, there may
but
SO* is the residue of sul-phuric acid; 3 is N0
in of
methods of producing salt, the residue
acid
many cases the affinity of the proper
about nitric acid. The acid radicle
radicle is not sufficient to bring all
is either is the body obtained by deducting
the change, unless the positive hydroxyl or hydrosulphyl, etc.,
hydroxid. the
in the form of oxid or radicle pro-
Thus the reaction from the acid. S0 2 is the
distinction
per of sulphuric acid. This
Ag+HCl-^AgCl + H in nomenclature is convenient
in ex-
of these
pressing some of the reactions
either word
will not occur, but acids. Some writers now use the
indicating a
AgHO + HCl-*AgCl+ H 2 0,
"ion" as a termination
ion, thus,
is called "sul-
SO*
negative

or AgaO+2HCl-^AgCl+2H,0 phion," N0 3 ,
"nitrion."
into four
will occur. Salts may be divided
with this classes
Intimately connected
hydro-
term Normal Salts, in which the
subject is the meaning of the
as applied acid, by a single
alkaline and neutral, gen of the acid is replaced
valencies.
If a element, according to its
to the conditions of substances.
salts
sulphuric acid is added to a The acids themselves are normal
drop of
of hydrogen
liquid turns
solution of litmus, the
sodium hy-
red; by the addition of thicarbonate
droxid the color will be
restored. The Na CS
2 3 Sodium
has in- nitrate
sodium hydroxid is a base ;
it
KNOa Potassium
teracted with the acid and
deprived it or more
Mixed Salts, in which two
com- some
of its chemical activity. By this When re-
positives are present.
hydroxid is also remains, the body
bination the sodium placeable hydrogen
neutralized. salt:
much
used for is usually called an acid
Litmus is a color these
the carbonate
tests. It becomes red on HKCOs . .
Acid potassium
has the blue potassium sulphate
addition of an acid, and color KNaSO*. .Sodium
of a
restored on the addition complete
blue Double Salts, in which two
base. It is usually sold in the above classes
in solu- salts of either of the unite to form
condition, and is used either compound,
of litmus -a definite
tion in water or in the form

paper strips of paper soaked
in the
which is generally distinctly
crystal-

solution and dried. line:

number of
from .Ammonium fer-
A artificial colors
as sub- FeSO*, ( NIL) 2SO4.
coal-tar products are now used
these are rous sulphate
stitutes for litmus. Among called basic
alkalin,
Phenolphthaleinred when
acid.
Oxy Salts (sometimes
which oxygen
nearly colorless when salts or sub salts), in

Congo
when
red red when alkalin,
blue
takes the place of one or
more of the
acid. acid radicles :

Lakmoid similar changes

to litmus. BiN0 3
Bismuth oxynitrate

Methyl orange pale yellow with

SbOCl Antimony
oxychlorid
acids, pink with alkalies.

These color reactions are of

in practical chemical operations,
import-
ance VOLUME COMBINATION
in the
in determin- If equal volumes of elements
but they have little value
ing the theoretical relations
between
gaseous state are weighed under the
there) are relative weights
acids, bases and salts, since same conditions, the will, with
theoretically in ex-
a few exceptions, be
substances which are alka-
acids, weights.
yet act on the colors as if act proportion to their atomic
and holds
lin, the reverse. For instance, a vessel which
Page one hundred thirty
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

1.008 grain of hydrogen (about 47 cu-

bic inches) will hold the following
quantities of other elements, it being
understood that all the bodies are in
the state of gas and at the same tem-
perature and pressure
 : : :

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

X
These principles are employed in H 2 (2 1) =2
determining the formulas of bodies. O =-16
N and O combine to form a body
=
called nitric oxid, which is sometimes H 3
18

written NO and sometimes N 2 2 . The

following calculation will show which That is, 18 parts by weight of water
is correct contain 2 parts of hydrogen. Hence,
The formula NO requires
18 :2 : : 40 :x; the fourth term will

One volume of N = 14
be the amount required. Percentage
composition is ascertained by the same
One volume of O = 16 rule. The percentage of oxygen in
water is obtained by the following
30 -r- 2 = 15
30 proportion

The formula N3 will require

18: 16:: 100:*
3

==
Two volumes of N 28 In ordinary calculations it is rarely
== necessary to use the axact fractional
Two volumes of O 32 atomic weights. The nearest whole
 60 number will suffice. In a close calcu-
60 30 lation it would be necessary to use
 1.00075 as the atomic weight of hydro-
In the first instance the formula
gen.
would indicate a vapor about fifteen
times as heavy as hydrogen in the ; In the last example, the fourth term
second case thirty times as heavy. Ex- willbe found to be 88.8, which is
periment shows that the gas is about therefore the percentage required. Any
fifteen times as heavy as hydrogen, chemical formula or reaction may be
and therefore justifies the formula calculated to exact expression of
NO. weight. To determine, for instance,
Since the introduction of a large how much potassium iodid is required
number of atoms into a molecule does to exactly precipitate 1 gram of mer-
not increase the bulk occupied by a curic chlorid, the reaction, that is, the

collection of such molecules, it seems equation, must first be stated. This is

reasonable to assume that the inter- as follows

molecular spaces are much larger than
the molecules themselves. HgCl a + 2 KI=2KCl + HgIa
The proportions by weights are:
STOICHIOMETRY
Hg =200 K = 39.1
This term (from two Greek words, =
which together have, figuratively, the CI, 70.92 I =126.9
meaning "to measure primary things") HgCl=270.92 KI=166.0
is applied to calculations of the com-
position of compounds and of amounts The proportion will be, as the mol-
required for reactions.
ecular weight of the mercuric chlorid
The exact quantitative relations
is to that of the potassium iodid, with
which exist in compounds, and the fact which it reacts, so is the given weight
that symbols refer to definite propor- to that of the iodid required. Care
tions of the elements, permits the use of must always be taken to use the mol-
the method of simple proportion to ecular weights in the full proportion.
calculate the amounts involved in, or In the present calculation, for instance,
resulting from, any chemical combina- the molecular weight of the iodid must
tion. If it is required to know how be doubled, because the chlorid reacts
much hydrogen is contained in 40 with two molecules. Hence,
parts by weight of water, the formula
expressed in quantitative ratio is as HgCU 2KI
follows 270.92:332(166X2)::!:*
Page one hundred thirty-two
THE BARBERS'- MANUAL
 Calculations of this character are this account are sometimes called the
who "alkali metals." In the periodic ar-
of value to the student, should practise
them. Among other points of rangement as usually given, copper,
interest, they will serve to impress on silver and gold are classed as an ac-
the mind that formulas give only ra- cessory sub-group. Of these three, sil-
tios by special factors, and do not ver shows the closest relation to the
convey directly the simple proportion. potassium group.
Thus, hydrogen iodid, HI, does not 3. The Calcium Group includes
contain equal quantities of and I, H calcium, barium, strontium and radium.
but only equal numbers of atoms. The They are positive dyads, and
calculation shows this :
form
oxids which
H = 1
are slightly
water, but much less caustic or cor-
soluble in

I =126.9 rosive than the alkalies proper, and

are often called alkalin earths. Their
HI=127.9 sulphates, carbonates and phosphates
are practically insoluble in water.
Therefore, Magnesium, zinc, cadmium and mer-
HI I cury are classed as an accessory sub-
group. Magnesium is closest in its
127.9: 126.9:: 100:99.1 per cent iodin;
resemblance to the main group. Mer-
by which it is seen that hydrogen iodid cury connects the group with the first
contains less than 1 per cent of hydro- group by the resemblances of copper
gen. and mercury in many of their chemi-
cal actions. Lead also has some re-
GROUPS OF ELEMENTS lations to this group In earlier.

elements, mag-
classifications, the four
A table of known elements with nesium, calcium, strontium and barium
symbols, and atomic weights will be
constituted the group of "alkalin-earth
found on p. 98. The following is a
metals."
summary of the characteristics of
some well-marke*d groups. Some 4. The Carbon Group includes car-

elements have properties

that ally
bon, silicon and tin. They are tetrads,
them to several groups. They are and generally positive. Boron, lead
"connecting links." Thus, fluorin
and platinum have some resemblances
connects the oxygen group with the to this group.
chlorin group, boron connects the 5. The Nitrogen Group includes
nitrogen group with the iron group, nitrogen, phosphorus, arsenic, antimony
through aluminum. and bismuth. They are of uneven
valency, triads or pentads their elec-
1. The Argon Group, often called
;

the zero group, on account of the ap- trical relations are irregular, but
parent lack of chemical affinity, in- mostly positive. Boron and gold have
cludes helium, neon, argon, krypton some resemblances to this group.
and xenon. They are gases, existing 6. The Oxygen Group includes
in minute amounts atmosphere.
in the oxygen, sulphr, selenium and tellu-
Helium occurs in some minerals and in rium. They are negative dyads.
the emanations from radium. The Chromium, molybdenum and uranium
members of the group form, so far as form an accessory sub-group.
is at present known, no compounds,
This system of classification will
and, therefore, the valency is zero.
not be rig : dly followed in the des-
2. The
Potassium Group includes cription of ihe elements and their com-
hydrogen, lithium, sodium, potas-sium, pounds the most important substances
rubidium and sesium. They are
;

willbe described out of the regular

positive monads, and have high affin- order.
ity for members of the oxygen and
In the description of elements,
chlorin groups. With oxygen most the
of them produce powerful corrosive atomic weights are given to the near-
compounds and on
when this is small,
called the alkalies,
est fi'st decimal or
to the nearest whole number.
Page one hundred thirty-three
Lesson Ten
 Subject
1. Muscles
2. Nerves
3. Bones of Face
4. Bones of Head
ANATOMY 6.
7.
8.
Muscle Chart
Nerve Chart
Bone Chart
Action
5. Salivary Glands Embracing 9.
10. Location
 CORRUOATOR SU

Dilatator naris anterior

dilatator nar;s posterior
compressor narhim minor
oepresso.; *l* nasi

LEVATOR MENTI.

Muscles of the head, face, and neck.

Page one hundred thirty-four

 THE BARBERS' MANUAL
MUSCLES OF THE HEAD, FACE AND NECK
THE BARBERS' MANUAL

Nerves Chart
 NERVES convey the sense of touch to the skin.
Therefore, the nerves convey the sense of
THE functions of the nervous system are rest and relaxation in the facial massage. There
numerous. Jt must control all visible are two distinct divisions to the
movements; it must control many nervous system.
in-
visible activities such as the secretions of The Cerebro-Spinal and the Sympathetic us
the glands, movements of intestines, and the
System.
beating of the heart. The Cerebro-Spinal Nervous_ System con-
However, it is more concerned sists of the brain and special cord and
spinal nerves. It controls the speech, taste,
with the
and the sight, and the voluntary muscles
higher functions, such as feeling, thinking.
remembering, willing, and other mental acts.
The functions of the nerves are to con- are governed by it.

vey impulses. A nerve is a cord-like struc-

The Sympathetic Nervous Systemacts on
ture bound together in a common sheath of the stomach and bowels, circulation, diges-tion,
connective tissues, which conveys impulses
and skin, and the involuntary muscles are under
from one part of the body to another. its control.
There are motor and sensory nerves. The Motions are voluntary and involuntary,
motor nerves are the nerves that move arm, but all are under the control of the nervous
foot or muscle. Motor nerves are com- system. Each spinal nerve has two roots, the
posed chiefly of motor fibres and operate while dorsal, which is sensory, and the vent-oral,
the body is in action. which is motor.
The sensory nerves are the nerves that There are twelve cranial nerves.
Page one hundred thirty-six
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL
NERVES OF HEAD AND FACE
DISTRIBUTION
NAME FUNCTION ORIGIN AND CONTROL BRANCHES
 1st Cranial Special nerve of Olfactory bulb Schneiderian Mem- 20 branches brane
Nerve, Olfactory smell

2nd Cranial Special nerve of Cortical center Retina of eye None in Occipital
Nerve, Optic sight lobe

3rd Cranial This is purely a mo- Floor of Aque- Muscles of eye ex- Inferior
Nerve, Motor tor nerve and has to duct of Sylvius cept Superior Ob- Superior
Oculi do with the motion lique, external rec-
of the eye tus, Orbicularis pal-
pegrarum
 4th Cranial Also nerve of mo- Floor of Aque- Superior oblique of Recurrent and term-eye
Nerve, Trochlear tion. Acts upon duct of Sylvius tentorium inal
su-perior oblique mus-
cle of the eye

Sth Cranial Nerve of motion, Oblongata and Lachrymal gland, 3 branches, Opthal-
Nerve, Trifacial, sensation and taste floor of fourth skin of forehead, up- mic, Superior and In-
or Trigeminus ventricle per part of nose, ferior Maxillary divi-cornea
of eye, eye- sions
lid, eyebrow, tongue,
teeth, and skin of

6th Cranial Motor nerve Fasciculus teres Controls external

Nerve, Abducens rectus muscle of eye

7th Cranial This is a motor Floor of fourth Face, ear, palate Tympanic, Posterior
Nerve, Facial nerve. It controls Ventricle and tongue Auricle, Digastric
mu-
secretion of Stylo, Hyroid, Tern
cous membranes of poral, Infraorbital
nose, supplies soft Buccal, Supermaxil
and hard palates. lary, Inframaxillary
Controls taste

8 th Cranial This nerve supplies Restis Cochlea, Vestibule, Cochlear, Vestibular

Nerve, Auditory the inner ear it ;
canals
controls hearing

9th Cranial This is a vasomo- Floor of the Middle ear, phrynx, Tympanic Cartoid,
Nerve, Glossa- tion nerve ; controls fourth Ventricle tonsils and tongue Pharyngeal, Muscu-lar
pharyngeal the sense of taste. Lingual, Tonsil-
lar
The pharynx assists
in swallowing

10th Cranial This is a nerve of Nerve,

Floor of the Ear, pharynx, lar- Auricular Pharyn-ynx,

Car-
fourth Ventricle
Pneumo- sensation and mo- heart, lungs, geal, Laryngeal,
gastric ti"n
esophagus, and diac, Pulmonary, Es-
stomach ophageal, Gastric,
Pepatic, Communi-
cating

11th Cranial This is a nerve of

Floor of the
fourth Ventricle Sternocleidomastoid,
Nerve, Spinal motion, controlling
Accessory the vocal sounds. trapezius, pharynx,
larynx
12th Cranial Floor of the
This is a motor and fourth Ventricle Middle ear, pharynx, Tympanic Carotoid,
Nerve, Hypo-
vasomotion nerve tonsils and tongue Pharyngeal, Muscu-
glossal
controls the lips, lar, Lingual
also the tongue. It
assists in mastica-
tion and articula-
tion
Page one hundred thirty-seven
THE BARBERS' MANUAL

Bones of the Head and Face

 BONES OF THE HEAD BONES OF THE FACE
CRANIUM, 8
7Nasal, 2 12Inferior Turbi-
Superior
1 Occipital, 1
4
Temporal, 2
8
lary,
Maxil-
2 13Vomor,
nated, 2
1

2Parietal, 2
5
Sphenoid, 1 9 Lachrymal, 2 14Inferior Max-
3Frontal, 1 6Ethnoid, 1 Malar,
10 2 illary, 1

11Palate, 2
Location: The Occipital is situ- The Sphenoid is situated at the
ated at the back of the head. anterior of the base of the skull and
articulates with all of the other
The two Parietals on either side of
the head above the Temporal. cranial bones, which it binds firmly
The Frontal is situated over the and solidly together.
forehead and resembles a cockle TheEthmoid is situated at the
shell in form and consists of two anterior fossa of the base of the
portions, one a Vertical portion, also
skull, and is received into the Eth-
a Horizontal portion.
moid notch.
The Temporals are situated on
either side of the head, just below Inferior Maxillary is called by
the Parietals. some authorities, the Mandible.
Page one hundred thirty-eight
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 The nasal bones are two small upon itself, like a scroll, hence it
oblong bones situated at the middle gets its name (turbinated), and ex-
and upper part of the face forming tends horizontally along the outer
the bridge of the nose. walls of the nasal fossa immediately
Superior Maxillary are two on below the walls of the antrum.
either side of the face and form the The Vomor resembles a plow
upper jaw bones. They are the shear, is a single bone, and is situ-
largest bones of the face, except ated at the back part of the nasal
the mandible, and are the ones that fossa, forming a part of the septum
contain the upper teeth. of the nose.
Lachrymal are the smallest and Inferior Maxillary, also called the
most fragile bones of the face and Mandible by some authorities, is
are situated on either side at the the largest and strongest bone of the
front part of the inner walls of the face, and it serves for the reception
orbit and resemble in form, size and of the lower teeth. It consists of
thickness that of a finger nail. curved horizontal portion of the
Malar are two bones situated on body, and two perpendicular por-
either side of the face at the upper tions called the remi, which join
and outer part of the face. the back part of the body nearly
They at right angles. It is convexed in its
form the prominence of the cheek, general outline and curved some-
part of the outer walls and floor of what like a horse-shoe, and forms
the orbit, and part of the Temporal the lower jaw. Of these the upper
and Zygomatic fossa. and lower jaws are fundamental
Palate are situated at the back bones of mastication and the others
part of the nasal fossa. are accessories for the chief function
They are of the facial bones is to provide an
wedged in between the superior apparatus for mastication, while sub-
maxillary bones and the Pterygoid
sidiary functions are to provide for
process of the sphenoid bone. sense organs (ear, nose, tongue),
Inferior Turbinated are situated
and a vestibule for the respiratory
one on each side of the outer walls organs, and also the vocal organs.
of the nasal fossa. Each consists of
a layer of thin spongy bone curled
part is in contact with Sterno-Cleido
Mastoid muscle.
SALIVARY GLANDS
We have six Salivary Glands, It receives its lymphatics from the
three on each side which are very external auditory. The soft palate,
important, in the manipulation of the and the nasal fossae. The parotid
muscles of the face. These gland has a duct known as Stet-
glands pass their secretion into the sons duct. This duct is formed by a
mouth. The names of these glands number of smaller ones origin-
are as follows: Two parotid, two ating at the anterior border
submaxillarys, and two sublinguals. and
PAROTID GLANDS forming one
large one, about the
The largest of the salivary glands emerging from the an-
size of a quill
varies from 15 to 30 grams in terior border of the gland crossing
weight. It is located below and in the massiter muscle and turns im-
front of the ear. From the Zygo- mediately forward between the mu-
matical arch above to the Ramus cous memberane and the ramus of
of the jawbone below. It is wedge the jawbone to penetrate the fatty
shape with three surfaces and cov- portions of the cheek and terminates
ered with the skin and fascia of the into the mouth opposite the second
lower part of the platysma. The Molar receives its
tooth. It sen-
anterior front part overlaps the sory fibres from
the Otic, Ganglion
front of the masseter muscle, and conveying fibres from the Glosso-
extends back to the posterior or pharyngeal, the Oricular Temporal
back of the Ramus of the Mandible, branch of the fifth cranial nerve and
with the Posterior part of the Platy- the motor branch of the carotid-
sma muscle, the posterior or back plexes.
Page one hundred thirty-nine
THE BARBERS' MANUAL

Descriptive Locations of Salivary Glands

 1. Internal Parotid. 10. Anterior Belly of the Digastric Muscle.
2. Accessory Parotid. 11. Deep portion of Sub-Maxillary Glands.
3. Duct of Parotid Gland. 12. Parotid Gland.
13. Masseter Muscle.
4. Bristle inserted into duct.
14. Sterno-cleido-mastoid Muscle.
5. Frenulum Lingue. 15. Posterior Belly of the Digastric Muscle.
6. Major Lingual. 16. Lingual Nerve.
7. Sub-lingual Gland. 17. Sub-Maxillary Gland drawn back.
Sub-lingual Duct. 18. Loop of Fascia.
9. Hyoid Muscle. 19. Hyoid Bone.
 SUBMAXILLARY GLAND muscle and behind the hyoglossus
and inferior belly of the Digastric.
This is considerable smaller than
It also contains a duct known as
the Parotid. It only weighs from
Wartons which springs from
duct
7 to 10 grams and is about the
size
the deep portion and passes forward
of an ordinary walnut flattened out.
into the surface of the deep lobe and
It consists of two parts, a superficial
opens by a small orifice or opening
part and a deep process. The larg- of the side of the frenulum of the
er portion is located in the dia-gas-
tongue.
tric triangle, and presents three
surfaces, superficial, deep, and lat- SUBLINGUAL GLAND
eral. Superficial portion lies just The sublingual gland is the small-
beneath the Platysma muscle and est of the
three glands. It is situ-
the deep fascia which forms a tri- ated beneath the mucous membrane
angular socket around it. It is of the floor of the mouth at the side
crossed by branches of the facial of the frenulum lingue, in contact
nerve. The lateral surface is small- with the sublingual depression on
est of the three. It lies about the the inner surface of the mandible.
middle of the mandible or the jaw- It is a narrow flat shape, somewhat
bone. The posterior or back portion likean almond and weighs nearly
is in contact with the Milohyoid two grams.
Page one hundred forty
Lesson Eleven
 Subject

ANATOMY Continued

Embracing
1. Circulation 6. Arteries
2. Heart Action 7. Pulse
3. Lungs 8. Digestion
4. Nerve Supply 9. Respiration
5. Blood Vessels 10. Glands

We are indebted for this article to

Edgar B. Wilson, D. C, Ph. C.

THE GENERAL PLAN OF

THE CIRCULATION
THE circulation of the blood is
 brought about by a complicated
series of tubes and channels, ex-
tending through every portion of
the body, and all communicating
with each other and with a power-
ful muscular central organ called
the heart. The tubes are called,
according to their structure, size,
and function, Arteries, Veins, and
Capillaries. Structure of Heart

THE HEART movements can go on with the

The heart is a strong, hollow,
slightest amount of friction.

muscular organ, lying behind the In order to understand the ac-tion

breast-bone with its greater portion of the heart,it is necessary to

to the leftof it. It is shaped some- know, first, that there is a double
what like a cone, with both ends action or circulation going on in
rounded, and the larger end directed the body at the same time. At
upward and toward the right. The every contraction of the heart, a
lower end, or apex, is free to move portion of the blood is thrown into
in any not being attached
direction, the lungs and another portion into
to anything, while the
upper and the remainder of the body, and
larger end is held in place by the these two portions never mingle
large blood vessels which are con- with each other. To be more pre-
nected with it, and also with the cise, and follow a particular mass
spinal column. The whole organ is of blood in its course through the

covered with serous membrane body, we may state it thus: The

called the pericardium, and lies in blood starts from a certain part of
a cavity which is also lined with a the heart; it goes directly to the
serous membrane. Its constant lungs; then it returns to the heart,
Page one hundred forty-one
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
but to a different part of the or- pulmonary circulation, and the left
gan; then it goes out of the heart side the general circulation. So
to the arteries to what is called that the course of blood is as fol-
the general circulation, i. e., to all lows: From the right side of the
parts of the body, excepting the heart to the lungs; thence from the
lungs. Thence it is lungs to the left side of the heart;
collected by thence from the left side of the heart
the veins, and returned to the heart. to all parts of the body; thence back
At the next contraction it goes to to the right side of the
the lungs again, and begins the heart. If this order of circulation be
same process. So that in this way carefully observed, it will be seen
allof the blood passes through the that the right side of the heart
lungs, and visits all parts of the never contains anything but dark
body; but in doing this it visits and venous blood, and the left side al-

passes through the heart twice. In ways contains bright or arterial

short, it flows (1) from the heart to blood.
the lungs; (2) back to the heart; Each side of the heart is divided
into two cavities, making four in
the whole organ. These cavities are
called the auricles and ventricles.
The ventricles constitute the greater
part of the heart, and it is in their
walls that the greatest muscular
power is located. The auricles are
the smaller cavities, situated on the
upper extremity of the organ, and
their walls are much thinner and
weaker than the walls of the ven-
tricles. The blood passes from the
veins into the auricles, from the
auricles into the ventricles, and from
the ventricles it is forced out into
the body. The course of the blood,
then, is from the body in general
 through the veins to the right auri-
cle; from the right auricle to the
The Heart right ventricle; from the right ven-
tricle to the lungs; from the lungs to
the left auricle; from the left auricle to
(3) to the rest of the body; (4) back the left ventricle; from
to the heart. Thus there are two the left ventricle out to the body in
systems of circulation, one called the general, whence it is collected by
pulmonary circulation, from the the veins and brought back to the
heart to the lungs and back again; right auricle, to begin the same
the other, the general circulation, course.
from the heart to the body and
At the mouth of the veins, where
back again.
they empty into the auricles, there
The double and simultaneous cir- are no valve, and they are not really
culation cannot be brought about by needed at this point, for the auricles
a heart containing but one cav- do not contract with much force, and
ity. And, accordingly, we find that as there is always a cur-
the heart is divided by a muscular rent in the veins running toward
partition, running lengthwise of the the heart, and as the ventricles lie
organ from front to the rear, into below the auricles, the blood nat-
two parts of nearly equal size, urally flows into the ventricles, where
called the right and left sides of the itmeets with no resistance,
heart. The right side carries the rather than backward, where it
Page one hundred forty-two
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 both directions. This danger is
averted by the introduction of four
sets of Valves, one between each
auricle and ventricle, and one at the
opening of the ventricle into the
arteries, through which the blood
passes during its contraction. The
valves of the heart are double folds
of serous membrane which lines all
the cavities of the organ, and are
stiffened somewhat by
a few fibers
which run between
the folds.
All
of the valves have three flaps, ex-
cepting the one which separates the
left auricle from the left ventricle,
and this has only two.
The Valves are all so consti-
tuted as toallow the blood to pass
only in one direction. The valves
between the auricles and ventricles
will allow blood to pass from the
auricles into the ventricles, but not
from the ventricles back into the
auricles; and the valve at the mouth
of the arteries will allow blood to
pass from the ventricles into the ar-
Plan of Circulation teries, but not from the arteries back
into the ventricles.

The large veins, by which all of

would meet with considerable, hav- the blood from the general circula-
ing to oppose the force of gravity tion is poured into the right auricle,
and also the current in the veins. are called the Vena Cavae (i. e., the
In this manner the ventricles be- hollow veins). The larger artery,
come filled with blood, and, when by which the blood passes from the
they contract, the case is very dif- right ventricle to the lungs, is called
ferent. Here there is an enormous the Pulmonary Artery; the large
pressure to overcome. The right veins, by which the blood returns
ventricle must contract with force from the lungs into the left auricle,
sufficient to send its contents into are called the Pulmonary Veins;
the lungs, pushing before it the and the large artery, by which the
column of blood already in the ves- blood goes out from the left ven-
sel. The left ventricle has to con- tricle to all parts of the body, is
tract with a force sufficient to send called the Aorta.
itscontents to the remote parts of
The blood then, coming from all
the body, also pushing along the
parts of the body into the veins,
blood which is already in the ves-
enters through the Vena Cavae into
sels. On the other hand, the re-
sistance backwards toward the veins
the right auricle; when the auricle
is filled, its walls contract, and the
is not strong, and, even supposing
blood passes into the Pulmonary
that the resistance were equal in
Artery, its return into the auricle
both directions, it is plain that the
being prevented by the closure of
circulation would soon come to an
the valves between the auricle and
end. The ventricles in contracting the ventricle. The blood then goes
would force blood backward into through the lungs, and becomes
the arteries, and then, when the changed into arterial blood. It re-
heart relaxed the blood would flow
turns to the heart into the left aur-
back again into the ventricles from
icle, and passes from there into the
Pane one hundred forty-three
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

left ventricle.The
contraction of distinctness and
quality of these
the ventricle then forces the blood sounds, and the
addition of other
into the aorta, its return into the sounds to them, that physicians are
auricle being prevented by the enabled to determine with wonder-
valves, from the aorta at the mouth ful accuracy the condition of the
of the pulmonary artery and the valves of the heart.
aorta prevent the blood which has
entered them during the heart's THE NERVE SUPPLY TO THE
contraction from flowing back into HEART
the cavity of the ventricle which THE heart is plentifully supplied
has become relaxed. with nerves, which regulate its

The contraction of the heart does movement. One set belongs to the
not run successively from one aur- cerebro-spinal system and have the
icle to the corresponding ventricle, power to check or arrest the heart's
and then from the other auricle to action, and are therefore called the
the other ventricle, but the con- inhibitory nerves of the heart. An-
traction of both sides of the heart other set, having an opposite func-
is simultaneous. It begins at the tion, i. e., that of increasing the
auricle and extends downward un- heart's function or action, rather,
til
the ventricles are both firm and are called the accelerator nerves. If
hard and reduced to their smallest the inhibitory nerve is destroyed
size. The organ then becomes re- or temporarily paralyzed, the pulsa-
laxed, and is for an exceedingly tions of the heart are suddenly in-
short time quiet. During this stage creased. the accelerator nerve is
If
of relaxation the auricles are be- paralyzed, the heart ceases to beat.
ing filled with blood from the veins, The contractions of the heart take
and there is also a current running place with regulation, and average
into the ventricles from the auricles. in the adult about seventy beats

During the stage of contraction the

blood is being forced into the cir-
culation through the aorta and pul-
monary artery.

The alternate contractions and re-

laxations of the heart are accom-
panied by sounds, which are very
audible to any one who applies his
ear to the region of the heart in a
living person. These sounds are
two in number, the first beat be-
ing
a prolonged rumbling sound,
and the second sound is short and
sharp. The first sound is made
during the time the heart is con-
tracting and the second sound is
just at the end of the contraction
or beginning of relaxation. The
first
sound is supposed to be pro-
duced by the closing of the Large
Valves between the auricles and
ventricles, which occurs just at the
moment when this sound begins,
and by the contraction of
partly
the muscular fibers of the heart.
The second sound is positively
known to be produced by the clos-
ing
of the pulminary and aorta
valves. It is by the variation in Nerve Supply to the Heart
Page one hundred forty-four
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
per minute. The rate is higher in
into them. When the heart relaxes
women and children than in men. and the pressure from that direc-
The heart pulsations appear to be
tion is removed, the elastic walls
slower in proportion as the indi-
of the arteries react upon their con-
vidual is cool and deliberate in his
tents, and, if it were not for the
judgment. The pulse of Napoleon valves, would drive the blood, or a
Bonaparte is said to have averaged portion of it, back into the heart.
only forty-four to the minute, and
At the slightest backward pressure,
is one of the slowest on record. however, the valves close, and elas-
Sudden emotions may increase its ticity of the arteries thus gives the
rapidity and force. On the other blood another impulse forward
hand, they may cause it to stop for to-
a moment altogether, to skip a beat, wards the surface of the body. The
as it were, producing the sensation impulses given by the heart's ac-
of "fluttering" at the heart. Al- tion, together with that caused by
though the action of the heart is the recovery of their natural posi-
thus affected by our feelings, it is tion by the walls of the" arteries,
beyond our control. Its pulsations gives rise to the pulse, which can
are ceaseless and regular, until in- be felt at any point in the body
terrupted by disease or death. where an artery runs near enough
to the surface. The common place
BLOOD VESSELS of feeling for it is in the wrist,
merely because that is the most
'"PHE heart, although a very pow- convenient and accessible; but it
erful organ, would not be able may also be felt in the neck, in the
to force the blood through the temple, or in the upper arm.
whole body and back to itself again
The large vessels, by which the
without assistance, and this assist- blood leaves the heart, viz., the pul-
ance is furnished by the structure monary artery and aorta, divide and
of the blood vessels themselves. subdivide continually, the branches
The blood leaves the heart by the grow smaller and smaller as they
arteries and comes back to it approach their termination. Their
through the veins, and these two walls at the same time undergo a
systems of vessels differ very much change in structure. The elastic
in their structure. tissue, which is so abundant in the
The tubes with strong
arteries are larger arteries, gradually disappear
walls, described by anatomists as as the vessel diminishes in size, and
having three layers. The inner-most the muscular tissue becomes more
is a delicate, smooth mem- prominent, until even this vanishes
brane. The middle one is composed and the smallest blood vessels are
of elastic fibers of non-striated or called capillaries. They are com-
involuntary muscular tissue. The posed of a thin membrane, not di-
outer one is made up of strong visible into layers. Thus the large
connective fiber tissue. Thus the arteries are very strong and very
walls of the arteries are very elas- elastic, while the smaller ones lose in
tic, and if the tube is distended, it elasticity, but from the amount
returns to its former size as soon of muscular tissue they contain, are
as the internal pressure is removed. very contractile.
The which the ar-
capillaries,
in
THE PULSE teries end, are only about
finally
WHEN the heart contracts, its
1/3000 of an inch in diameter
just large enough to allow the blood
contents are driven with great
force into the arteries, and as the corpuscles to pass through them,
blood already contained there re- so to speak, in single file. Their
sists somewhat the advance of number is beyond computation.
fresh supply, the walls of the ar- They are so thickly strewn in the
teries are stretched to accommodate blood that the point of a pin or fine
the mass of blood which is thrown cambric needle can not anywhere
be inserted between them. As ev-
Page one hundred forty-five
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
eryone knows, it is impossible to tion of the voluntary muscles aids
find an instrument with a point so in the return of the blood to the
fine as not to wound a blood ves- heart. Whilethe arteries, as a rule,
sel if introduced through the skin. run deep inbody, out of reach
the
These vessels are entirely indis- of injury, the veins are largely near
tinguishable to the naked eye, and the surface, and the whole exterior
before the discovery of the micro- of the body is more or less streaked
scope it was a great by the blue lines which indicate
problem for their course. Now, during the con-
the anatomists to explain how the traction of the muscle, it not only
blood got from the arteries to the shortens but becomes broader and
veins, as they could find no direct thicker, and, of course, compresses
communication. to a greater or less degree
every-
After passing through the capil-
thing near it. Thus the veins are
laries, the blood enters the veins.
These vessels contain in their walls
continually being pressed upon here
and there, in various parts of the
much less muscular and elastic tis-
body, during the whole of our wak-
sue than the arteries, and more con-
ing hours, and even to some extent
nective tissue. The consequence when we are asleep.
of this is, that the walls of the veins
But merelypressing the blood
are flacid and yielding, and if they out of the certain portion of the
are cut across, the sides fall to- vein might send it in either direc-
gether and tend to close the open- tion. It would be almost as likely
ing. If an artery, on the other to send it away from the heart as
hand, is cut, the tube remains open toward it. This reflex of blood in
and in a sense rigid, although, as
the veins is prevented by valves,
will soon
be shown, its caliber is which allow the blood to pass
somewhat diminished. The veins, through them readily toward the
very minute at first, gradually unite
and become larger and larger, un- heart, but not away from it. The
til finally all the veins of the gen- discovery valves and circu-
of the
lation of blood was first made
the
eral circulation form two large ves-
sels called the Vena Cavae, which dis- by Dr. William Harvey, who was
a great physician to the king of
charges its contents into the right
auricle of the heart, one vena cava England, just a few years before
receiving all blood from the
of the the pilgrims sailed across the At-
head and upper extremities, and the lantic in the Mayflower. He died
in 1657, about forty years after he
other that from the rest of the body.
The circulation of the blood in discovered the circulation of blood.

the veins is brought about in three He was scoffed and ridiculed for

ways. In the first place, the act of his theory and disputed, at first,

respiration has its influence. When by the other doctors. These valves
are particularly numerous in the
the chest is expanded by muscular
action, every fluid which is outside lower extremities, for here the force
of it tends to rush in and fill the of gravity acts in opposition to the
enlarged cavity. The chief space current of blood and would seri-
ously interfere with circulation if
is filled by air, as that is more per-
fectly fluid and meets with the there were no special provision with
least resistance from friction. But the reference to it.
blood is also drawn in from the Thus when blood is forced out of
a portion of by pressure, it
a vein
veins, and the real extent and power
of this suction can very easily be cannot go backward on account of
seen whenever the entrance of air the valves, but must go forward in
is impeded. In such cases the veins every case. This fact and the ac-

in the neck can very easily be seen tion of the valves may be beauti-
to become swollen and full during fully seen in the arms of any per-
expiration, and emptied again dur-ing son where the veins are not ob-
exhalation. scured by too much fat beneath the
In the second place, the contrac- skin.
Page one hundred forty-six
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 If a place be chosen where a vein laries and their distance from the
is visible, with no branches for an heart, as well as the magnitude of
inch or so, and one finger be placed their combined areas as compared
upon it so as to stop the flow of with that of the aorta, the blood
blood, the portion of the vein on moves through them very slowly,
the farther side from the heart will not faster, it is thought, than one-
be seen to fill with blood. This thirtieth of an inch per second.
slight swelling marks the situation When the capillary circulation is

of the valve. If a finger be pressed looked at through a microscope, as

along a vein toward the heart, it may be in the web of a frog, it
pressing upon it all of the time, the isseen that the red corpuscles pass
vein will be seen to be filled behind along through the minute vessels,
the finger; while if the finger be sometimes together, but often in
pressed in the opposite direction, single file, and without much trou-
away from the heart, the vein will ble; but the white corpuscles are
be empty and collapsed behind the affected by friction, and drag along,
finger, and perhaps hardly notice- sticking fast here and there until
able. This clearly indicates the di- they are started again by the cur-
rection of the current of blood. rent. During the passage of the
blood through the capillaries, cer-
But the third cause of the venous
tain of its ingredients transede
circulation, and the most important
through the walls of the vessels,
of all, is the blood which is con-
stantly accumulating in the capil- and lie in immediate contact with
laries and exercising pressure on the the tissues outside. These are the
column of blood already in the nutritive materials by which the
veins. This pressure is unceasing various tissues of the body are kept
and powerful. These three causes in repair. The cells select their
acting together keep up a free and nourishment, and what is left, to-
steady flow of blood in the veins gether with waste and used-up mat-
ters from the cells, is taken up by
toward the heart.
the lymphatic vessels and returned
In both arteries and veins, there to the large veins near the heart.
are numerous communicating These matters constitute what is
branches, so that when the blood called the lymph. Changes in the
vessel obstructed, the blood
is
gaseous constituents of blood also
passes out into other vessels and take place in this part of the cir-
around the point of stoppage, and, culation, and so we find that, when
excepting in extraodrinary cases,
the blood emerges from the capil-
the nutrition of the part is not in-
laries into the veins, it has become
terfered with.
of a dark purple color, and unfit
The arteries, then, carry the for further use in the body until it is
bright scarlet, highly oxygenated refreshed. So the process which
blood from the heart out to all takes place in the capillaries is in
parts of the body for its nutrition. some degree the reverse of that
It is sent to the remote capillaries, which takes place in the lungs. The
partly by the contraction of the blood enters the lungs of a black or
heart, and partly by the elasticity deep purple color and comes out
of the arteries. From the arteries it bright purple. It passes back to
enters the capillaries, where the the heart through the veins, the
essential but very obscure processes steady flow being maintained partly
of nutrition are carried on. It has by suction and partly by the act of
been found that the current of respiration, partly by muscular con-
blood rushes through the arteries traction and consequent pressure of
with an average velocity of twelve the veins, and mainly by pressure
inches per second, but, in conse- form the capillaries, which con-
quence of the smallness of capil- stantly forces the blood onward.
Page one hundred forty-seven
 ;

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

DIGESTION ory nerves are transmitted to the

"T\IGESTION is a physical and medulla. Motor impulses are here

chemical process by which the generated which are transmitted to
the muscles involved in the move-
food is introduced into the alimen-
ments of the lower jaw.
tary canal, is liquified, and its nu-
tritiveprinciples transformed by the INSALIVATION
digestive fluids into new substances This is the incorporation of the
capable of being absorbed into the food with the saliva secreted by the
blood. parotid, sublingual and submaxil-
The Digestive Apparatus consists lary glands. The parotid saliva is
of the alimentary canal and its ap- thin and watery and is poured into
pendages, viz.,'teeth, lips, and the mouth through Stenos duct. The
tongue; the salivary, gastric and in- submaxillary and sublingual
testinal glands, the liver and pan- saliva is thick and viscid, and is
creas. poured the mouth through
into
Digestion is divided into many Wartons and Bartholonis ducts.
different stages which are as fol- Deglutition is the act of trans-
lows: Prehension, mouth digestion, forming food from the mouth into
which is mastication and salivation; the stomach, and is divided into
deglutition, which is swallowing three stages as follows: First, the
gastric and intestinal digestion, and passage of the bolus from the mouth
defecation. into the pharynx. Second, from the
pharynx into the Esophagus. Third,
PREHENSION from the Esophagus into the Stom-
The act of conveying the food into ach. In the first stage the move-
the mouth, is accomplished by the ments are entirely voluntary, and
hands, lips and teeth. the second and thirdmovements are
THE MOUTH peristalic movements.
So the food is voluntarily taken
Mastication the mechanical di-
into the mouth and passed from the
is

vision of the food, and is accomp- mouth into the Esophagus and then
lished by the teeth, and the move-
from the Esophagus to the stom-
ments of the lower jaw, under the ach, and from the stomach to the
influence of muscular
contraction.
duodenum, from the duodenum into
When thoroughly divided, the food the small intestines, from the small
presents a larger surface for the sol- intestines to the secum, thence to
vent action of the digestive fluids, the ascending colon, then the trans-
thus enabling them to exert their verse colon, thense the descending
respective action more effectively colon, and out by the way of the
and in a shorter period of time. anis.
 MOVEMENTS INVOLVED THE MOUTH (SALIVA)
Though originating in an effort The saliva found in the mouth is

of the will and under its control, the an opalescent, slightly viscid, alka-
movements are, for the most part, line fluid, having a specific gravity
of an automatic or reflex character, of 1.005. Microscopic examination
taking place in the m'edulla and in- reveals the presence of salivary cor-
duced by the presence of food with- puscles and epithelial cells. Chem-
is composed of
in the mouth. The nerves and nerve- ically it water, pro-
centers involved in this mechanism tein materials, and inorganic salts.
are as follows: Lingual branches The amount secreted daily has
been estimated at about 2 pounds.
of the trigeminal nerve. The Glos-
sopharyngeal are the sensory Saliva moistens and softens the
branches. The motor are as fol- food, unites its particles into con-
lows: The small root of the trige- sistent mass, and thus facilitates
minal, hypoglossol and the facial swallowing, and converts boiled
nerves. The impression made upon starch into sugar, known as Ery-
the terminal filaments of the sens- throdextrin and Maltose.
Page one hundred forty-eight
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 DEGLUTITION OR SWAL- toses. From this stage it is capable
LOWING of passing through animal
brane and is thus absorbed into the
mem-
The Stomach lies immediately be- blood stream. Thus you see how
yond the termination of the Esoph- the proteins are absorbed into the
agus. Here the alimentary canal ex- blood from the stomach.
pands and forms a receptacle for the
temporary retention of the food, and
this receptacle is called the stomach. INTESTINAL DIGESTION
It will hold about 1500 cc. or about
two quarts. It presents two orifices, The physical and chemical
the cardiac or esophageal, and the changes which the food principles
pyloric. Two curvatures, the lesser undergo in the small intestines, and
and greater. The walls have three which collectively constitute intes-
coats, the serous, muscular and the tinal digestion, are complex and
mucous. The mucous lies in folds probably more important than those
or wrinkles, and is covered with tall taking place in the stomach, for the
narrow columnar epithelium. Em- food is, in this situation, subject to
bedded in the mucous membrane the solvent action of the pancreatic
are the gastric glands, which consist and intestinal juices, as well as the
of long tubes opening into a short, action of the each of which ex-
bile,
common duct, which opens by a erts a transforming
influence on
large mouth onto the surface of the one or more substances and further
mucous membrane. There are about prepares them for absorption into
five million of these glands at the the blood.
fundous of the stomach, and they
secrete the gastric juices which di-
To rightly appreciate the physio-
logic actions of the digestive juices
gest the food in the stomach. These
juices are of a clear, colorless fluid poured into the intestines, the na-
with a constant acid reaction, a ture of the partly digested food as it
slightly saline and acid taste, and comes from the stomach must be
a specific gravity of 1.002 to 1.005. kept in mind. This consists of
The materials composing this fluid water, inorganic salts, acidified pro-
are Pepsin, Rennin, Lipase, and Hy- teins, proteoses, starch, maltose,
drochloric Acid. liquefied fats, saccharose, lactose,
dextrose, cellulose, and the indigest-
It has been established that the able portions of meats, cereals and
fact that production and discharge fruits. Collectively they are known as
of gastric juice is under the control kyme. As this acidified mass
of a nerve center situated in the passes through the duodenum its
medulla. From this center nerve contained acids excite a secretion
fibers pass by the way of the vagus and discharge of the intestinal fluids,
nerve to the glands of the stomach. e. g., pancreatic juice, bile, and in-
The production and discharge of
testinal juice.
gastric secretion, just preceding and
during a meal, is the result of the In as much as these fluids are
action of two different stimuli, a pri- alkaline in reaction they exert a
mary and a secondary. The action neutralizing and precipitating in-
of the gastric juice is the transfor- fluence on various constituents of
mation of the different proteins of Kyme. As soon as this has taken
the food into peptones. As soon as any place gastric digestion ceases and
one of the proteins is penetrated those chemical changes are inau-
by the acid it is converted into acid- gurated which eventuate in the
proteins. After this is accomplished transforming of all the remaining
the pepsin becomes active and trans- undigested nutritive materials into
forms the acid-protein into peptone. absorbable and assimilable com-
Then the ammonium and magne- pounds which collectively constitute
sium sulphates change it to pro- intestinal digestion.
Page one hundred forty -nine
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 in the intestines
are known as
Lieb- E
erkuhan's
glands. B
THE The pancreas
is I
SMALL a very
L
INTESTINE important
organ lying
E
S im-mediately
behind the
This fluid
stomach and is a
The small product of
intestines is
secretes a
juice which is
the se-
that por-
transparent, cretor
tion the
of
alimentary canal colorless
which is a and strongly activity
convoluted tube, alkaline, and of the
measuring viscid, and liver cells,
about 22 feet after its
has
in length and a formation by
extends the liver
cells,
from the pyloric it is
orifice of the specific
conveyed
stom-
from the liver
ach to the gravity by the
beginning of bile
of 1,020.
the large
intestines. The It is one
walls of the of the most capillaries
small intestine important which unite
has four coats, of finally
viz; Serous, all the to form the
muscle, digestive main hepatic
fluids as it duct.
exerts This
submucous, a duct emerges
and from the
liver at the D
transforming transverse i
mucous. influence fissure. At a g
The small upon short dis- e
intestines are s
all tance it is
supplied classes of t
joined by the i
with blood alimentary cystic duct, v
and principles
the distal e
nerve and
supply as has been
well as Lymph shown to extremity O
vesicles, which contain at of r
carry least which g
the nutriment from three distinct ex- a
eat
the food we n
into the blood enzymes, viz., pands into
stream, and is
amy-lopsin, a pear s
used stepsin, or shaped
to build up the
lipase.
juices
These
are
reservoir,
the gall
WHAT
broken down
tissues, entered into bladder in THE
the intestines which the
or replaces through the bile is DIGEST
them with new, temporarily
healthy pancreas
stored. The IVE
tissue. duct for- O
The glands duct to med by the R
of
which
the intestines
secrete
the union of the
hepatic and
G
the intestinal
common bile
A
duct then in
juices are two the duo- N
those in the denum.
duodenal portion
are known as T
Bruners glands,
and those H
 S
ARE
1.
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 cystic ducts is the common bile duct materials into the blood stream from
and it passes downward and for- the tissues, from the serous cavi-
ward for a distance of about seven ties,
and from the mucous surface
centimeters, and pierces the walls of of
the body. The most important
the intestine and passes obliquely of these surfaces, especially in its
through its coats for about one cen- relation to the formation of blood,
timeter and opens into a small re- is
the mucous surface of the alimen-
ceptacle, the ampulla of Vater. The tary canal; for it is from this or-
flow of bile into the intestines are gan that new materials are derived
steady, but is greatly increased while which maintain the quality and
eating, and after eating, it increases quantity of the blood. The ab-
the flow of the pancreatic juice and sorption of materials from the in-
mixes with it and terstice of the tissues is to be re-
neutralizes the garded rather as a return to the
gastric juices and
increases the in- blood of liquid nutritive which has
testinal juices. If the gall bladder
escaped from the blood vescles, for
is removed you will find in the nutritive purposes, and which if not
feces fats and other undigested returned, would lead to an accumu-
materials that have not been di-
lation of such fluids and the develop-
gested, especially fats.
ment of dropsicalconditions. The
LARGE INTESTINE anatomic mechanisms involved in
absorptive processes are, primarily,
The large intestine is that part of
the lymph-space, the lymph-capil-
the alimentary canal situated be-
laries; secondary, the lympathic ves-
tween the termination of the ileum sels and larger blood-vessels.
and the anus. It varies in length
from one and one-quarter to one
and a half meters which one meter RESPIRATION
is 39-37-100 inches in length. The
diameter is three and one-half to In spite of all the importance we
seven centimeters. It is divided have ascribed to the blood, food and
into the cecum, the colon; subdivid-ed water, they are equaled in import-
into an ascending, transverse and
ance by air. We could live from
descending portion, including the forty to days without food,
sixty
zignoid flexure and the rectum the
and about a week without water,
walls consisting of three coats,
but we can't live ten minutes with-
viz., serous muscular and mucous.
out air. For in the air you breathe
After the absorption of the pre-
pared food in the intestine, the re- you get that very important ele-
maining of the contents of the small ment, Oxygen.
intestine, together with certain in-
Every bit of blood in your body
testinal secretions pass into the large
intestine, and here form the feces.
passes through your lungs every
three minutes, therefore every one
THE FUNCTION OF THE should take a breathing exercise
LARGE INTESTINE every night and morning.
Is therefore to receive, to reduce to
a proper consistency, to tempor- Get out into the open air if pos-
arily store and subsequently dis-
sible, and if you
cannot do this,
charge its contents, consisting of
raise up the windows and stand as
indigestable residue of food, to-
close to it as possible. During
gether with excretions of intestin- these three minutes every bit of the
blood in your body passes through
al glands, which have descended
from the small intestines and which your lungs, and the Oxygen you
have taken in will oxidize the pois-
constitute in part, the feces. on out of your blood. It is just
ABSORPTION like washing your face in the morn-

The termabsorption is applied ing, and it is just as necessary, for

it washes your blood.
to the passage or transference of the
Page one hundred fifty-one
 MANUAL
THE BARBERS'
 SKIN
Your lungs are in the
upper part GLANDS OF THE
your shoul-
of your chest, just under are secretory
organs of
of about
GLANDS the body. They
ders. They are composed separate any fluid
arranged
from the blood. They are
air cells
six hundred million little in two
saccular
together like classes, tubular and
and they are clustered so many developments of the
They look glands, and are
toy balloons. very much like pink appendages of the
sponges epidermis, also
rubber
function
In or- skin. gland has
Each Beauty its to perform, and
you see in the drug stores.
while the
dinary breathing very few people the glands,
open up all Specialist does not treat
breathe deep enough to the air able to rec-
part of
upper she should know and from
be ognize
cells in the the lungs. This is resulting
the cause this the diseases
often of much disease. To do of them,
prop- the improper functioning
arise in
as a great many conditions
with your he
erly you must breathe which the glands are involved. 1
skin has
heads. two kinds of glands, the
arms well above your and the
lungs Sebaceous or oil glands,
You should take into your glands.
air. That Suderiferous or sweat
daily about sixty barrels of The Sebaceous glands are
a part
your lungs are of the
is the amount of air that of the hair follicle and saccular type
people get this They are
need. Very few of gland.
work
much air. People who in-
oval in shape and secrete an oily
occupations which keeps
doors in sedentary never get substance called sebum the skin
and people pliable and the
this much air, soft and
get situated in
who work out-doors seldom hair glossy. They are
work over ot the
this much air. If you
piece of ma- the deeper layers or conum
a desk or bench or a skin.
get the glands
chinery it is impossible to
When the sebaceous fail
because you following
proper amount of air,
properly the
to function Comedones,
all of the time. Mi-
are leaning forward That is conditions arise: lia,
absolutely neces-
why it is Steatoma or
breathing Acne, Seborrhea,
sary for every one to take Cyst.
well above
exercise with their arms

the head to get every air

cell pro- COMEDONES
perly areated. called
Comedones, commonly
caused from
blackheads, are usually an
the se-
increased activity of
of the
baceous glands. The duct
of waste
gland is filled with plugs
gland
matter, which prevent the from
un-
functioning properly. The
attributed to
derlying cause may be
caused from Dys-
faulty elimination
See treat-
pepsia or Constipation.
ment, page 186.

MILIA
the sebace-
Milia is a disease of
white or
ous glands and are small
beneath
pearly elevations or nodules the outer
They are
layer of skin.
sebaceous
caused by a retention of secretion and
found
are usually
eye-lids, also on
around the eyes or
occur in
the cheeks. They usually
Sebaceous Glands dry skin.
Page one hundred fifty-two
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

ACNE to treat the capillaries and in this

way cut off the blood supply that

The different forms of Acne are:
causes the broken capillaries.
Acne Vulgaris, Acne Rosacea, Acne
Artificialis, Acne Cachecticorum, The treatment is the same as for
Punctata, Albida, Indurata. Acne Vulgaris. However, in Acne
Rosacea the treatment of the capil-
ACNE VULGARIS laries very important as this is
is
done with the Galvanic current.
This the most commonly found
is

type Acne and is a chronic in-

of A common sewing needle can be
flammation of the sebaceous glands. used for purpose. It can be in-
this
It is generally found on the face. serted in the needle holder. The face
However, it is often found on shoul- is then sterilized with Peroxide of
ders, neck and back. The disease Hydrogen or pure alcohol.
appears in the form of papules, pus-
Needle is attached to negative pole,
tules, and nodules. This disease clogs
the excretory ducts leading to the
using water for positive pole. The
surface of the skin, with an oily flesh is then pressed between the
fingers and needle is inserted into each
secretion called sebum. As
capillary in the direction in which it
the pores of the skin retain this se-
runs.
bum an inflammation takes place.
The papules and pustules appear Treat each one separately after
slowly and usually contain a germ. If which the face is bathed with Perox-
these pustules are not properly ide of Hydrogen and zinc ointment
taken care of pits and scars result.
applied.
A correct diet is of the utmost
importance in the treatment of Acne
Vulgaris as it shows an improper ACNE CACHECTICORUM
elimination through the regular
channels. (For treatment see page This form of acne is frequently
183.) found among persons that are
greatly run down from illness.
The
ACNE ARTIFICIALIS skin lesions are usually very

deep owing to the general health of

This is an acute eruption and is the person. These lesions are usu-
attended by severe itching. It is allyfound on the back. A physician
usually caused from using cosmet- should be consulted as this is not
ics that irritate the skin. It is also the work of the Beauty Culturist.
caused from improper food.
The treatment consists of sooth-
ing lotions, such as zinc ointment ACNE INDURATA
or Lozzars paste and to discontinue
what is causing it. This condition of Acne shows
very little on the surface as it is
caused from the deeper seated se-
ACNE ROSACEA baceous glands, but when they do
they are in the form of tubercules
This a chronic congestion of
is
with a large hard base. The treat-
the skin of the face. The blood
ment is the same as for Acne Vul-
capillaries are often broken and
garis. (See page 183.)
greatly dilated near the surface
of
the skin, causing tiny red lines espe-
cially near the nose. ACNE ALBIDA
The tip of the nose usually is
The skin is usually very dry in
red and congested. This condition is this condition of Acne, frequently
often attributed to the excessive
pustules and comedones are found.
use of alcoholics. Spicy foods should However, Milia is found in profu-
be avoided. Electrolysis can be used
Page one hundred fifty-three
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 Mi- galvanic cur-
Treatment same as for glands. Electricity,
sion.
lia (see page 185.) rent, can be used in removing them
or an operation by a reputable
In all cases of Acne the High physician.
Frequency current is highly recom-
the
mended as it assists in relieving
tendency to scar or pit. SUDORIFEROUS OR SWEAT
Acne on the face, is usually
ac- GLANDS
companied hy Seborrhea on the and
scalp, as Seborrhea is one of
the THESE are the sweat glands
are located over the entire body
diseases of the Sebaceous glands. connective tis-
in the subcutaneous
 tubular
sues. They are the simple glands
assist
WENS, OR STEATOMA, AND and their work
elimination of the waste mat-
is to in the

SEBACEOUS CYSTS ter from the body through

perspira-
tion.
Wens or
Cysts are formed be-
called
neath the skin and are often The duct of the suderiforous gland
Steatoma. In color they vary from enters the epidermis between
have two layers of skin and
finally
white to pink and sometimes the
a purplish hue. They are tumors opens into what is known as
the
or meinbrattons sacs, filled with an the
accumulation of sebaceous matter. sweat pores. Any disease of
de-
They are usually located upon the sweat glands causes either a
vary the
scalp, face, neck or back and crease or increase of the flow of
odor.
secretions and often has a bad
in size from a pin head to an orange.
They are generally single but have These glands are the most numer-
been known to form in different ous on the palms of the hands and
portons of the body. soles of the feet and they number
the fore-
They more frequently found
are 2,700 to the square inch, on
about
head, 1,200, and on the cheek
in women. They are in shape either total
or 500 to the square inch. The
round, oval or flat, and are seft
number on the whole body about
often
hard to the touch, but are 2,400,000, which with an average
movable beneath the skin.
body, if placed end to end, would make a chain
The
They are usually due to the stop- 28 miles long.
ping up of the ducts of the oil skin eliminates one-sixtieth of the
two
body in a day or two, or about
150
pounds of organic salts and
gas.
grains of Carbon Dioxide
 The diseases of Suderiforous
glands are:
__^fZJWPJT

HYPERDROSIS
and
This is excessive perspiration is a
functional disorder. If it is
to
localized it is usually confined

the face, hands, and feet. It is

dis-
often caused by certain types of
ease.
Sudoriferous Glands
Page one hundred fifty-fout
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

ANIDROSIS URIDROSIS
 This is lack of perspiration. In This is a condition that is defined
this condition the skin is very dry as the presence of urinous materi-
and at times there is a burning sen- als in the sweat, such as uric acid,
sation. Anidrosis may exist from etc.
birth. If so, there is nothing that
can be done. However, some physi-
cians contend that hot baths and
SUDAMEN
drinking a great deal of water will This disease
is characterized by
assist in relieving this condition. whitish blisters due to the reten-
tion of sweat in the upper layers
CHROMIDROSIS of the skin.

This condition occurs mostly in

nervous persons and is manifested MILARIA RUBEA
by discharge of colored perspira-
a
tion from the pores. It is not a This is commonly called prickly
common disease. A reliable physi- heat and is an inflammatory dis-
cian should be consulted. order of the sweat glands. It makes
its appearance in small red sacs, or

BROMODROSIS papules, and is attended by burn-

ing and itching. This usually makes
This condition where the per-
is a its appearance in warm weather.
spiration fetid or foul smelling.
is
It usually occurs under the arm pits All of these conditions should be
or on the feet. Nervous disorders as a treated by a reputable physician.
rule are partly the cause of However, exercise in the open air,
this condition. Absolute cleanliness frequent bathing, electric and vapor
is essential. massage are very beneficial.
Eczema
Page one hundred fifty-five
 ;

Lesson Twelve
Subject

AMPLIFIED FACIAL
Embracing
 1. Exercise 6. Circulation
2. Stimulation 7. Muscles
3. Relaxation 8. Sub-vibration
4. Nerves 9. Twin forces
5. Glands 10. Make up

'T'HIS treatment derives its name important part in the facial treatment,
from the more ample and scien- owing to the fact that the face is pe-
tificsystem of exercise and manipu- culiar in having attached to it many
lation,than has ever been given before, small muscles, whose movements, along
in any facial work, and when under- with the movements of the eyes, causes
stood and practiced, we hope, will the play of expressions on the face.
redeem much of the lost patronage It is the contraction of these facial
that has resulted from lack of skill muscles that cause wrinkles.
and theknowledge of the underlying
The and body are also supplied
face
principles of this work. with voluntary and involuntary mus-
In order to give a Scientific Treat- cles. The voluntary muscles are gov-
ment, one that will build up, stimulate erned by the cerebro-spinal nervous
and relax the tense nerves and tissues, system, and are controlled by the will,
it is necessary to understand some- while the involuntary muscles are un-
thing of the functioning of the skin, der the control of the sympathetic
nerves, muscles and glands, in order nervous system, and acts more upon
to give a beneficial, as well as enjoy- the stomach and bowels and to a great
able, facial to your patron. The skin degree upon the skin.
in itself acts asa protection to the nerves,
Each muscle is supplied by dif-
blood vessels and glands also
and
;
ferent arteries, sends branches
regulates the heat of the body, elimin-
to the veins. They also act as a pad-
ates by means of the Suderiferous
ding for the bones and as a support
glands the impurities from the body
to the body. They are composed of
it also absorbs fatty substances such white, fibrous cords, and are respon-
as creams or lotions, through massage sible for the movements and appear-
the skin also breathes it expels water
;
ance of the expressions, and
facial
and gas, and absorbs oxygen. therefore play a very important part
The skin is supplied with sensory in this treatment, as the manipulations
nerves, and therefore convey the sense are for the purpose of blood supply,
of touch. However, the nerves have which gives nourishment to the mus-
only an indirect relationship to facial cles,and in this manner keeps them
exercises, they play their part in blood in good condition. When muscles lose
supply and stimulation, and are closely their elasticity wrinkles result, there-
associated with the muscles of the fore it is so necessary to know their
face. They also convey a sense of location in order to work in the pro-
relaxation and rest, so necessary in this per direction, for if you work against
work. The distribution of the the muscles you pull them out of
nerves of the skin follows shape, or may flatten them and cause
the same wrinkles or give the face an unnatural
course as the blood vessels. However, appearance, while proper manipulation
the muscles of the face play the most
Page one hundred fifty-six
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

stimulates the circulation, yet this can into the pores of the skin and removes
be overdone with many of the move- the secretions as well as the dust and
ments, if one has not the correct un- grime from the outer surface, after
derstanding of them. The correct which moist heat is applied either in
movements can be found elsewhere the form of hot towels or a vaporizer.
in our Manual, which describes If towels are used, three are sufficient.
minutely the location of the muscles, The next step after an application of
and all that is necessary to give com- tissue food, is to use your twin vibra-
plete and scientific facial treatments tors ; they are attached to the operat-
of all kinds. It describes in detail or's hands by means of a specially
the treatment suitable for each indi- constructed appliance which fits over
vidual case. It also gives complete the hands. This appliance is placed

The Amplified Moler massage, twin vibrators in use

treatise on other branches of the art. over the second and third fingers of
In giving the Amplified Facial, in both hands.
which the twin vibrators are used (one The deep soothing vibrations to the
vibrator works in opposition to the face are produced through the finger
other) the proper amount of stimul- tips of the operator, with a firm, gentle
ation and blood supply is produced pressure, following the outline as set
through artificial exercise rather than forth in our Manual.
by the slow process of finger mani- Briefly, the hands are placed on
pulation. The twin vibrators there- the forehead, going over the Occipito
fore produce a more complete vibra- Frontalis muscle, which is located at
tion than the single, as it reaches the the forehead, with an upward and
deep-seated blood vessels, nerves and downward movement, from temple to
glands, and all structures that go to temple. The Occipito muscle moves
make up the body. In order to give the scalp backward and the Frontalis
this treatment properly, it is necessary muscle draws the scalp forward, orig-
to prepare patron first, as described inates at the root of the nose and
in Leson 13 of our Manual. raises the eyebrows. You are also
Always see patron is thoroughly
that working over the Sinus, a hollow cav-
relaxed and comfortable before be- ity in the forehead, and this action
ginning treatment, then cleanse the stimulates the nerve supply to the Si-
face with a good cold cream) (we use nus, and in this way relieves a head-
the Moler product which is a very ache or cold at once. It also stimu-
pure cold cream) which penetrates lates the Frontalis muscle, thereby
Page one hundred fifty-seven
 ;

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

removing the lines which form on and back. The lack of natural exer-
the forehead. This is followed by a cise to this muscle is the cause of the
deep rotary movement over the fore- deep lines near the corner of the
head, and from temple to temple, mouth. Now proceed across the
working again Frontalis mus-
to the cheeks in a soothing stroking move-
cle ; Semi Lunar Gang-
also across the ment, over the Masseter muscle, which
lion, which supply the impulses or raises the lower jaw and presses it
life to the organ then proceed with
;
against the upper one. Then with a
the exercise with an up and down rotary movement back and forth, over
movement on the temples, on the lines the neck and chin, you stimulate the
that radiate from the corner of the Platysma muscle and the Sublingual
eyes back toward the hair. You are glands. Then move the hands back-
now working on the Temporal muscle ward to spine and back of neck, over
a deep vibration should be given at the Sterno-Cleido-Mastoid muscle,
this point, then permit your hands
which bends the head forward to one
to pass over the Masseter muscle by side also over the Mastoid process and
;

placingthem at the lower portion of the Thyroid glands. Great care

the jawbone, and then move them in must be taken in working over these
an upward straight movement toward glands, not to over-do the exercise,
the temples three times, releasing the
as they secrete a poisonous fluid, and
pressure as you glide down. when over-stimulated throw this out
This stimulates the Inferior branch through the system.
of the Fifth Cranial nerve and the Now place the fingers over the jaw-
Parotid glands, which increase the
on each side and with a stroking move-
flow of saliva. However, care must
ment of the thumbs on each side of
be taken at this point not to overdo
the nose, you work down, repeating
your work, as too much pressure could three times.
injure or bruise these glands. From this
point you work back of the ear Now remove the cream from the
which brings you over the mastoid face with a dry towel or cotton and
process. Glide your fingers back light-ly proceed as with other facial finishes.
in front of the ear to the ramous
of the jaw.
Now work back over the lamina of
the atlas to the spinous process of
the axis. At this point avoid working
too far down the neck as it would
over stimulate the vagous nerve at the
fifth cervical. Now
proceed by giving
a circular movement around
the eyes,
working over the Orbicularis Palpe-
brarum muscle. This muscle controls
the opening and closing of the eyes.
This movement may be repeated sev-
eral times, but avoid undue pressure,
as it might bruise or discolor the eyes.
Great care must be taken to avoid
getting cream into the eyes, as it would
make the patron uncomfortable. The
hands are again brought down to the
Ramous of the jawbone, working back
and forth under the chin with a strok-
ing movement, stimulating the Omo-
Hyoid muscle upward in a rotary
stroke, on the expression lines, work-
ing on the Zygomaticus muscles, which
draw the corners of the mouth up
Page one hundred fifty-eight
Lesson
Thirteen

Subject

FACIALS
Finger Manipulations Things to Remember

We will proceed with this lesson. Place

the customer in the chair, spread your
haircloth from in front as you do for a
A nice linen spread for a fa-
shave, and place the towel straight across cial is as essential as for a
the back, tucked in over the customer's shave.

garments to protect them from the cream

on the hands, while giving the manipula-
tions on the back of the neck. Place a face
towel over the head rest. Now recline
your chair, spreading the towel diagonally
over the haircloth, tucking one side in,

folding it diagonally across tucking the op-

posite side, making a neat protection for
the garments. Now bring the towel that
you have on the head rest up and around
the head in this manner and pin or fasten
The time will come when
with a clamp, which forms a protecting towels will not be used in fa-
cap for the hair. cial treatments.

A face to be properly treated should

first be steamed, either with a hot towel or

some other device, of which there are a
Page one hundred fifty-nine
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL
the barber,
Things to Remember number on the market. For
and
the hot towel is generally used,
 the face,
as you place the first towel over
become
ask your customer to relax and
just as passive as possible. If a shave
A professional
soothing
to three
a has just been given, from two
touch is to be acquired if
than facial
if not, from
treatment is more steam towels are used, but
the four to
a face wash. five are necessary to put
being
face in the proper condition, always
heated
careful that the towels are evenly
comfort-
and to a temperature that will be able, as
contract
a towel overheated will
The
the muscles rather than relax them.
wrung
towel should be quite thoroughly
the neck,
out to avoid water running down
towel from
and it is advisable to carry the
in such a
the basin to the customer folded
steam and
manner that it will retain the
unfolded and
heat, and so it will be easily
the face.
handled as you spread it over
manipula-
Steaming the face before the
the muscles,
tion is essential as relaxes
it
generally
opens the pores of the skintoandreceive
puts
the face in better condition
about two
the treatment. I would suggest
 minutes of steaming.
for this
We now apply the cream, but
cleansing cream
manipulation it must be a
The selection of proper face or a van-
is and skin food, not a rolling cream
cream is important. This cream would
well. ishing cream, as the rolling
ivhere chemistry serves leaving it
roll from the skin too quickly,
would leave
dry, and the vanishing cream
manipulations. You
no lubricant for the
hand, just
will have in the palm of your
cover the
a sufficient amount of cream to
Page one hundred sixty
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
face well before removing the towel, in or- Things to Remember
der to apply it quickly as the towel is re-
moved.
You will apply the cream by first quickly
rubbing the two hands together to thor- No exact or rigid rules can
oughly spread it over the hands, then ap- be adhered to in facial treat-
ply it to the face. ments. You must display
judgement with skill.
You will start your manipulations over
the Sinus at the center of the forehead.
This Sinus is a hollow or cavity in
the forehead and is the part that becomes
infected when one has a
cold. are We
now working over the Frontalis muscle in
a stroking movement, down to the temple
and back to the center of the forehead, re-
peating this eight times on each side. This
we call the Rotary Frontalis movement.
This manipulation
stimulates the nerve
supply to the Sinus, often relieving a
headache or cold at once. It also strength-
ens the Frontalis muscle by bringing it
back to its natural healthy condition, there-
by removing the lines of the forehead that
form as the muscle contracts. There is
little danger of over-exercising this mus-
cle. Now start with a frictional move-
ment with the balls of your fingers at the
temples and with a rotary frictional move-
ment work your way back to the forehead,
repeating this about eight times. The tendency is for a face
your movements be upward,
Now with a rotary frictional movement
let
to sag. Bear this in mind and
from the temple down to the Ramous of
the jaw-bone, which is working over the
Masseter muscle. This exercises the Mas-
seter muscle and stimulates the inferior
branch of the fifth cranial nerve and the
Page one hundred sixty-one
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

Diagram of facial movements for new Moler massage

1
Rotary Frontalis.
8 Straight Orbicularis
2
Up and Down Frontalis. Straight
9 Nasal.
3 Rotary Temporal 11Straight Thyroid.
4 Rotary Occipito. 12 Orris Pick Up.
6 Rotary Platysma. 13 Helix.
7
Circular Orbicularis.
Page one hundred sixtv-twu
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
Parotid gland. This is the gland that by Things to Remember
manipulation increases the saliva of mas-
tication. It is the one that is affected when
one has the mumps. This manipulation we
Rotary Temperal and it should
will call the
be repeated only about eight times. There Be sure that you do not con-
verse with your customer when
is danger of overdoing your work at this
giving a facial. A treatment
point, as too much
pressure would bruise without rest or relaxation is

and otherwise injure the glands, and again valueless.

if this muscle is over-exercised it will give
the face a stern or hard look.

From thiswork with a rotary f ric-

point,
tional movement below and back of the
ear, which brings your manipulation over
the Mastoid Process. This gives not only
a soothing effect, but is beneficial in case of
inflammation at this point. We will repeat
this eight times, stroking back each time
with a sliding movement. In case of a
headache or tired feeling, you will, from
this point, work down with a rotary fric-
tional movement over the Lamina of the
Atlas to the back of the neck, which is
manipulating the Occipito muscle. This
movement we call the Rotary Occipito.
We will now start again at the temple,
working with a frictional rotary move-
ment over the cheeks toward the nose. This
is manipulating the zygomatic major and
Pleasant thoughts are de-
minor muscles, the two muscles lying over
tected in the touch. Keep a
the cheeks, whose uses are to draw back smiling disposition.
and raise the corner of the mouth. Repeat
this eight or more times according to the
face. If fat, ten to twelve times will not
harm and will reduce the fatty secretions,
but if the face is thin, too much manipula-
Page one hundred sixty-three
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL
Things to Remember tion on the muscles will give it too mus-
cular a look.

We now start at the Ramous of the jaw-

bone at the point of the Parotid gland and
The heavy
double chin is work with a rotary frictional movement
the result living.
of high It forward to the point of the chin. This is
denotes rich field for oper-
manipulating the Platysma-Myodes mus-
ation.
cle which raises and lowers the chin, also
 the Sublingual glands that secrete the sal-
iva for mastication, thus not only improv-
ing the facial expression, but, if present,
would remove the double chin and improve
the general health of the body. In the
event of a heavy double chin, you could
give ten to twelve or more of these move-
ments without injury to the muscles or
glands, but avoid using too heavy a pres-
sure as the object now is to work on the
fatty portion rather than on the muscle.
In the event of a fat face, generally no
muscle exercise is needed, but if
it were
a thin face, needing a better muscle elas-
ticity, the object would be to work on the
muscle, but in this event repeat each move-
ment only about eight times. This move-
ment we call the Rotary Platysma.
We now work over the eye. This is on
the Orbicularis Palpebrarum muscle that
Extreme care must be dis-
opens and closes the eye, and the movement
played in working over and
is a straight stroking movement, starting
around the eyes. They are
easily discolored. at the inner corner of the eyes, rubbing out
to the outer corners over the eye-ball and
in to the inner corners underneath the eye-
ball, always being careful avoid pres-
to
sure that might discolorallowing the
or
cream or materials to be worked into the
Page one hundred sixty-four
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL
Things to Remember
eye. Repeat this movement about eight
times. This we call the Circular Orbicu-
laris.

Now with the second finger and thumb

of the lefthand stretch the skin at the
Hands must be kept flexible
outer corners of the eye and with the first and under absolute muscle con-
two fingers of the right hand manipulate trol to give proper manipu-
with a vibrating movement from the cor- lation.

ner of the eye back to the ear over the

Temperal muscle. This is to remove the
crows-feet at the corners of the eyes and
to further exercise the muscle. Repeat
this about eight times, but there is little
danger of injury by over-exercising at this
part. This movement we call the Straight
Orbicularis.
 Straight nasal. Movement No. 9
A body masseur spends three
years preparing for a license.
The nasal movement is next and covers
The same skill is required in
a series of strokes downward from the in- facial work.
ner corners of the eye down to the base of
the nose, up over the lip back to the base
of the nose, up to the end and straight
back over the nose, continuing over each
eye-brow, finishing at the outer corners of
Page one hundred sixty-five
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 Things to Remember the eyes. This manipulation is with the
thumbs as you see and repeat each about
eight times. This assists in removing black-
heads, should they be present, helps to re-
move the sebaceous matter from the side
We frequently see the un-
of the nose, helps to reduce the expression
trained barber removing black-
lines and helps shape the nose. I wish
heads between the thumb nails.
This is malpractice. to caution you here against too much pin-
ching or rubbing to remove blackheads as
it frequently tears the tissues which is

more injurious than beneficial. This move-

nent is called the Straight Nasal.

Straight thyroid. Movement No. 11

Our next manipulation is from the point

of the chin with both hands, down, back,
under and up. This is operating on
the Sterno-Cleido-Mastoid muscle. This
muscle's action is to rotate the head
Proper muscle
builds it
exercise
up. Improper man-
and move it forward and backward. We
ipulation tears it down. also manipulate over the Thyroid glands,
one of the most important glands in the
body. In connection with this is the motor
and centuery nerves, but unless manipula-
tion is properly done it may result in in-
jury to the general health of your cus-
Page one hundred sixty-six
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
tomer for if the manipulation extends Things to Remember

down too far at the back of the neck, the

manipulation may be on the motor nerve
that may excite the gland and cause it to
discharge a poisonous secretion in the sys- It is claimed that personal
magnetism has much to do with
tem. This movement we call the Straight
the success of a treatment.
Thyroid. This magnetism is kindly
thoughts.
You will now manipulate on the upper
lip with a straight stroking movement
from the corners of the mouth to the

nose. This is exercising the Orbic-

ularis Orris, the muscle that closes the lips

and pushes them out. In your manipula-

tion of the upper lip, be careful that you
preserve the cupid's bow or natural shape
of the lips by pressing with the first finger

of the right hand into the hollow of the

upper lip as you work with the finger and
thumb on the lip. In exercising this move-
ment, avoid too much pressure on either
the upper or lower lip, for too continuous
a pressure on the muscle would serve to

flatten it, spoiling the natural shape of the

mouth. This movement we call the Orris
Pick-Up. Repeat about eight times. The barber sometimes pulls
and zvools and mauls his cus-
tomers. This is acrobatic, not
scientific.
Page one hundred sixty-seven
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 Things to Remember ELECTRIC FACIAL
High Frequency

This conveys electricity directly to your

customer through the electrode or glass
tube, and as electricity is a germicide, this
There is a springtime odor instrument is especially desirable in cases
to ahigh frequency treatment. of facial blemishes or skin diseases, such as
Fresh ozone is beneficial.
Acne, Milia, Comedos, etc.

High Frequency or Violet Pedestal vibrator with

Ray, a germ destroyer hand attachments

In giving this treatment it is necessary

to move in the general direction of the
nerves as electricity follows the nerves as
itwould an electric wire. However, if you
were not to do this scientifically, the elec-
tricity would jump to the nerves as it has
an affinity there. But to have a knowledge
of the nerves you are enabling it to operate
with the nerve you seek to reach.
A lasting blemish may be
In using the High Frequency, it must be
the result of carelessness zvith
this instrument. kept constantly in motion while passing
over the face, and one must be cautious not
to overdo or overextend the, period of this
treatment, for if the instrument were to
be left in one spot too long, it would burn
the tissues, and even much greater dam-
Page one hundred sixty-eight
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
ages have been known as a result of ig- Things to Remember
norance as to the handling of this instru-
ment. Not over five minutes should be
devoted to work with the High Frequency
and the flow or current should be so regu-
lated that there will be no severe stinging Test the strength of the cur-
rent on your own flesh before
or burning as the electrode is placed on the
trying it on your customer.
face. The strength may be increased after
the electrode put to work if the customer
is

requires If this precaution is taken

it.

there can be no damaging results follow-

ing a treatment.

We will start our treatment over the

Semilunar Ganglion to the center of the

forehead and back, now down over the
inferior branch to the Otic Ganglion and
back, now operate over the Medial branch
with a rotary movement over the cheek.
Now the opposite side in the same manner
over the Semiluner Ganglion to the center
of the forehead and back, now down over
the inferior branch to the Otic Ganglion
and back, then over the Medial branch in a
rotary movement over the cheek, now
down over the Sterno-Cleido-Mastoid mus-
cle,over the Thyroid glands, and the same
on the opposite side. Now under the chin
over the Digastric muscle.

In working over the Orbicularis Palpe-

brarum you soften the current by working Avoid direct contact with the
over the fingers as we did with the vi- electrode over the eye.
brator, working around the Orbicularis
Orris and the nasal movement as you see.
Never use the High Frequency on the back
of the neck for the same reason that we
do not use the vibrator.
Page one hundred sixty-nine
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL
and
Things to Remember We will use the skin food again

proceed with the vibrator. We start

with
operation over the Sinus, working
 temple
a back and forth movement to the
over the
A single vibrator is a farce and back, which is operating
if not properly manipulated. twice and
Frontalis muscle. Do this
over the
then with a rotary movement
now
forehead to the temple. Continue over the
down to
temperal muscle moving the Ramous
Parotid
of jaw-bone or
ear three
gland. Now continue back to the
Mastoid
times. This is stimulating the
jaw-bone,
Process. Now move below the
the Platysma
work back and forth over
You now
muscle and Sublingual glands.
cheek, working
return and manipulate the
Zygomaticus
with a rotary movement over
side of the
muscle. Now to the opposite
over the
face in the same manner, going
Process.
Frontalis Temperal and Mastoid
muscles,
Now again over the Platysma
Sub-lingual
which also stimulates the
muscle
glands, again over the Zygomaticus
will ex-
and sub-maxillary glands. Now we
mus-
ercise the Orbicularis Palpebrarum
pre- eye with
A soft rapid stroke is cles by placing the hand over the
ferred to a longer one given rotary move-
the vibrator used in a rapid
with less rapidity. Watch the Or-
carefully the adjustment of ment to soften the vibration over
your machine. bicularis Palpebrarum.
that this
Great care must be exercised
heavy
treatment over the eyes is not
enough to blacken or discolor underneath
the eye-ball.
Page one hundred seventy
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
 Now continue over the nose. I wish to Things to Remember
caution you against using the vibrator di-
rectly over the nose as it frequently causes
the customer to sneeze. We
now operate
over the Sterno-Cleido-Mastoid muscle by
A small piece of cotton is
moving down and up with a rotary move-
desirable for removing cream
ment, repeating on each side about three from the face, and it saves
times. linen.

Now work underneath the chin over the

Platysma muscle in a rotary movement, re-
peating about three times. Now move up
to the mouth, moving across over the up-
per lip and back over the under. This is
exercising the Orbicularis Orris muscle.
Complete by a slight manipulation of
the ears. This completes the vibrator.
You now complete the treatment by re-
moving the cream, carefully avoiding too
much pressure, but generally with an out-
ward and upward movement to avoid giv-
ing the face a drooping effect. You now
use one or two hot towels folded and put
on as we did the first ones, being careful
that they are not uncomfortably hot. There
is quite a little knack in placing of the hot

towels that should be practiced. If simply

put on to cover the face without pressing
it down with the hands, it has not the same

steaming effect and is less comfortable. Avoid shocking your cus-

You should, always give your
of course, tomer with the sudden appli-
customer breathing space at the nose and cation of a cold towel. Advise
mouth. him first of your intent.

Now we will apply the cold towels and

the number be according to your cus-
will
tomer's wishes. Always let your customer
know before applying the cold towel that
Page one hundred seventy-one
 THE BARBERS' MANUAL
Things to Remember you are doing this, for if he does not know
of the change from the hot to cold, it is
too sudden a shock. The cold towels are
to close the pores and harden the tissues
before the customer leaves your chair.
A certain amount of make-
up is desired by most men at Now the manner of general finish is ac-
the finish of the treatment. cording to the shop practice. An astring-
 ent is recommended
after the cold towels,
and I wish
caution you against the in-
to
ferior grades. Lotions can contain too
great a quantity of alcohol to be beneficial
or so little that there is no benefit. The
well-known brands are usually satisfac-
tory for this purpose.
After applying the lotion, the face
should be carefully dried, and in this re-
gard many barbers are rather careless.
Not too much rubbing with the towel over
the face, but rather the hand over the towel
as it lays on the face
a better method,
is

and care should be given to every part to

be thoroughly dried before the powder is
applied.
Now as to the matter of powder, a
straight talcum would be satisfactory, but
as with women, so with men, a tinted and
scented powder of a higher quality than
Do not hesitate to use the straight talcum is preferred, so I suggest
eyebrow pencil, lipstick, or that you give some thought to the buying
rouge if your customer desires of better powders to finish your facial
it. It is a part of modern bar- treatments, and use a little more care in
bering.
applying them. There is something to
make-up in men's facial massage as well as
women's.
We will now raise the chair and remove
the protecting towel from the head and
Page one hundred seventy-two
THE BARBERS' MANUAL
lather the back of the neck and wipe off Things to Remember
with a hot towel. This is to remove the
cream that may have
collected on the neck
from giving treatment. Be sure and
this
dry the neck thoroughly before applying
powder. Now is the time to suggest your // you have given a good
treatment, you have sold your-
tonic or scalp treatment while you are go- self to your customer and only
ing over the head with a few light finger a reminder will be necessary
manipulations, but as it is not part of this to sell your goods.
lesson we will omit it and proceed in
the combing of Careful comb-
the hair.
ing is any other part of the
as important as
barber profession, for no matter how sci-
entifically your facial may have been given,
if your customer is not turned out im-
proved in appearance he is not satisfied.

There are many other methods of giving

the facial treatment, those that are put into
effect for women's work, but there has been
nothing devised for the barber un-til the
present that in any way resembles
treatment, and the abuse that
a scientific
has been imposed upon the trade has well
nigh ruined one of the best paying parts
of barbering.

It is to be hoped the graduate will be "Tell me not in mournful

able to reclaim this part of the profes- numbers,
sional service by showing the old barber Life is but an empty dream,
how to give scientific treatments. Nor the soul is dead that slum-
bers,
 And we are what the barber
The Vibrator is used the same makes us seem.
as the Violet Ray but does not
convey electricity to the
customer. Electricity simply
furnishes the power to drive
the machine.

Hand vibrator
Pjge one hundred seventy-three