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Textiles/Plastics: Extraction with methanol, 1h, 70C, ultrasonic bath acc. to ISO 18254:2016-04 followed by GC-MS for NP/OP and by LC-MS for NPEO/OPEO
All
Leather: ISO 18218-1:2015-11 followed by GC-MS for NP/OP and by LC-MS for NPEO/OPEO
* C&A commits to eliminate the intentional use of APEO from all C&A products latest by 2020. All C&A products have to comply latest by 1st season 2017 with the
APEO limit value of 100 mg/kg, or the end of the grace period for C&A products to be fully compliant is season 1 (SN1) 2017.
The U.S. EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) identified suitable safer alternative surfactants /detergents to substitute APEO in the Program Design
for the Environment (DfE). The related list is available on the safer chemical ingredients list (SCIL) at the following link:
http://www.epa.gov/dfe/pubs/projects/npe/aa-for-NPEs-final-version5-3-12.pdf
4.2 CHEMICAL GROUP 2: AZO COLOURANTS (AZO DYES & AZO PIGMENTS)
Textile/Other: prEN ISO 14362-1:2015, 4-AAB: ISO/DIS 14362- 3:2015 (prEN ISO 14362-3:2015)
All Leather: ISO 17234-1:2015 and ISO 17234-2:2011
Refer to C&A Azo Colourant Test Method Procedure
1 4-Aminobiphenyl 92-67-1
2 Benzidine 92-87-5
3 4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2
4 2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8
5 o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3
6 5-Nitro-o-toluidine 99-55-8
7 4-Chloroaniline 106-47-8
8 2,4-Diaminoanisole 615-05-4
9 4,4'-Diaminodiphenylmethane 4,4'-MDA 101-77-9
10 3,3'-Dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1
11 3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4
12 3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7
13 4,4'-Methylenedi-o-toluidine 838-88-0 <20 5
14 p-Cresidine 120-71-8
15 4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-Chloroaniline) 101-14-4
16 4,4'-Oxydianiline 101-80-4
17 4,4'-Thiodianiline 139-65-1
18 o-Toluidine 95-53-4
19 2,4-Toluenediamine 2,4-TDA 95-80-7
20 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7
21 o-Anisidine 90-04-0
22 2,4-Xylidine 95-68-1
23 2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7
24 4-Aminoazobenzene 4-AAB 60-09-3
All DIN 54231:2005, weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with methanol, 70C, 30min, ultrasonic bath
All DIN 54231:2005, weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with methanol, 70C, 30min, ultrasonic bath
Triclosan: Following ISO 13365 extraction with acetonitrile, 1h, RT, ultrasonic bath followed by GC-MS
DMFu: CEN ISO/TS 16186:2012; DIN SPEC 53280:2012, Extraction with acetone, 1h, 60C, ultrasonic bath, followed by GC-MS or LC-MS
BAC: Extraction with methanol, quantification by LC-MS/MS
All CPs: ISO 17070:2015
OPP: ISO 13365:2011, extraction with acetonitrile, 1h, RT, ultrasonic bath followed by GC-MS
Pesticides: Reference to US EPA method and analysis by GC-MS/ECD or LC-MS-MS
C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
Usage ban
1 Triclosan 3380-34-5 1
<10
Usage ban
2 Dimethyl fumarate DMFu 624-49-7 0.03
<0.1
Usage ban
3 Benzalkonium chloride BAC 63449-41-2 1
<1
4 Pentachlorophenol PCP 87-86-5
2,3,4,6-TeCP 58-90-2
5 Tetrachlorophenols 2,3,5,6-TeCP 935-95-5
2,3,4,5-TeCP 4901-51-3
2,3,4-TriCP 15950-66-0
2,3,5-TriCP 933-78-8
2,3,6-TriCP 933-75-5
6 Trichlorophenols
2,4,5-TriCP 95-95-4
2,4,6-TriCP 88-06-2
3,4,5-TriCP 609-19-8 <0.5 0.05
2,3-DiCP 576-24-9
2,4-DiCP 120-83-2
2,5-DiCP 583-78-8
7 Dichlorophenols
2,6-DiCP 87-65-0
3,4-DiCP 95-77-2
3,5-DiCP 591-35-5
2-CP 95-57-8
8 Monochlorophenols 3-CP 108-43-0
4-CP 106-48-9
9 o-Phenylphenol OPP 90-43-7 <50 0.5
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Contents Contents
67 Perthan 72-56-0
68 Phosdrin/Mevinphos 7786-34-7
69 Propethamphos 31218-83-4
70 Profenophos 41198-08-7
71 Quinalphos 13593-03-8
72 Stroban 8001-50-1
73 Telodrin 297-78-9
74 Thiacloprid 111988-49-9
75 Thiamethoxam 153719-23-4
76 Toxaphen (Camphechlor) 8001-35-2
77 Trifluralin 1582-09-8
All DIN 54232:2010, weight of sample taken 2g, extraction with dichloromethane, 30 min, RT followed by GC-MS
1 Chlorobenzene 108-90-7
1,2-DiCB 95-50-1
2 Dichlorobenzenes 1,3-DiCB 541-73-1
1,4-DiCB 106-46-7
1,2,3-TriCB 87-61-6
3 Trichlorobenzenes 1,2,4-TriCB 120-82-1
1,3,5-TriCB 108-70-3
1,2,3,4-TeCB 634-66-2
4 Tetrachlorobenzenes 1,2,3,5-TeCB 634-90-2
1,2,4,5-TeCB 95-94-3
5 Pentachlorobenzene PCB 608-93-5
6 Hexachlorobenzene HCB 118-74-1
2-CT 95-49-8
7 Monochlorotoluenes 3-CT 108-41-8 <1.0
0.1
4-CT 106-43-4 (total)
2,3-DiCT 32768-54-0
2,4-DiCT 95-73-8
2,5-DiCT 19398-61-9
8 Dichlorotoluenes
2,6-DiCT 118-69-4
3,4-DiCT 95-75-0
3,5-DiCT 25186-47-4
2,3,6-TriCT 2077-46-5
9 Trichlorotoluenes 2,4,5-TriCT 6639-30-1
,,,-TriCT 98-07-7
,,,4-TetraCT 5216-25-1
10 Tetrachlorotoluenes ,,,2-TetraCT 2136-89-2
2,6,,-TetraCT 81-19-6
11 Pentachlorotoluene PCT 877-11-2
All Leather: ISO 18219:2015, weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with n-hexane, 60C, 1h, ultrasonic bath, analysis by GC-MS-NCI
Textile, Wood, Paper: ISO 14184-01, weight of sample taken 1g, extraction with water, 1h, 40C, sealed vessel followed by UV/VIS (412nm) analysis
All Leather/other: EN ISO 17226-01:2008, weight of sample taken 2g, extraction with detergent solution, 1h, 40C, sealed vessel followed by HPLC- UV (360nm) analysis
Textiles, Trims: Extraction with acid perspiration according to EN ISO 105-E04, no requirements for accessories made from metallic materials *)
All Leather: EN ISO 17075 after aging, aging conditions: 24 H/ 80 degrees C./ 5% r.H., closed static drying oven, no fresh air supply, no ventilator
Fluid or viscous Solid materials which Fluid or viscous Solid materials which
Solid materials which Solid materials which
materials which can can be ingested by materials which can can be ingested by
may leave residues may leave residues on
be ingested or have biting, tooth scraping, be ingested or have biting, tooth scraping,
on the hands the hands
skin contact sucking or licking skin contact sucking or licking
1 Aluminium Al 7429-90-5 5625 1406 70000 50 50 50
2 Antimony Sb 7440-36-0 45 11.3 560 1 1 10
3 Arsenic As 7440-38-2 3.8 0.9 47 0.5 0.5 10
4 Barium Ba 7440-39-3 1500 375 18750 50 50 50
5 Boron B 7440-42-8 1200 300 15000 50 50 50
6 Cadmium Cd 7440-43-9 1.3 0.3 17 0.1 0.1 5
7 Chromium (III) Cr (III) 7440-47-3 37.5 9.4 460 1 1 1
8 Chromium (VI) Cr (VI) 18540-29-9 0.02 0.005 0.2 0.018 0.005 0.18
9 Cobalt Co 7440-48-4 10.5 2.6 130 0.5 0.5 10
10 Copper Cu 7440-50-8 622.5 156 7700 50 50 50
11 Lead Pb 7439-92-1 13.5 3.4 160 0.5 0.5 10
12 Manganese Mn 7439-96-5 1200 300 15000 50 50 50
13 Mercury Hg 7439-97-6 7.5 1.9 94 0.5 0.5 10
14 Nickel Ni 7440-02-0 75 18.8 930 10 10 10
15 Selenium Se 7782-49-2 37.5 9.4 460 5 5 10
16 Strontium Sr 7440-24-6 4500 1125 56000 50 50 50
17 Tin Sn 7440-31-5 15000 3750 180000 0.36 0.08 4.9
18 Organic Tin Sn various 0.9 0.2 12 -- -- --
19 Zinc Zn 7440-66-6 3750 938 46000 50 50 50
Applicable for all Metal Items (e.g. earrings, piercings, necklaces, bracelets,
Nickel indication: Rubbing test by CR 12471
chains, anklets, rings, watch straps, buttons, zippers, spectacle frames)
Metal - Spectacle frames and sunglasses intended to come into close and Nickel release according to EN 16128
prolonged contact with the skin Abrasion of coated items by EN 12472
Cadmium: EN 1122:2001
Lead: DIN EN 14602:2012, weight of sample taken 1g, acid or microwave digestion followed by ICP or AAS
Cobalt dichloride: Microwave digestion followed by ICP/MS, calculated from the cobalt content
CEN ISO/TS 16179:2012-12; DIN SPEC 91179:2012-12, weight of sample taken 1g, extraction with methanol/ethanol (80/20), 1h, 60C, ultrasonic bath followed by
Plastics, synthetic fibres, prints, coatings GC-MS
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT [pH value] Detection Limit
PHTHALATES
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Contents Contents
4.22 CHEMICAL GROUP 19: SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC) continued
cont.
Energy consumption:
The conventional PU leather process employs washing baths that are constantly heated to facilitate the process. The wet product must be dried completely. Finally, DMFa is reclaimed from contaminated water in a an energy intensive process. In contrast,
water based PU production does not need washing baths, follow up drying of wet synthetic leather and final reclaiming of the DMFa, which saves a lot of energy.
5.1 5.3
CHEMICAL ALKYLPHENOLS (AP) / ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES CHEMICAL
DISPERSE DYES (Which are classified to be allergenic)
GROUP 1 (APEO) GROUP 3
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) belong to a group of non-ionic surfactants including
NPEOs and OPEOs, which are widely used as auxiliary chemicals in different industries. Disperse dyes are generally water-insoluble colorants that are mainly used for coloring
They can be found in Detergents, scouring agents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, softeners, polyester, nylon and cellulose acetate textile fibers. They have extremely high light
dispersing agents for dyestuffs, impregnating agents, degreasing agents for leather, fastness for very pale colors.
finishing agents, etc.
If NPEOs and OPEOs are released to the environment, they can be degraded back to NPs
Some disperse dyes have an allergenic (sensitizing) potential to human skin and can be
and OPs, which are toxic to aquatic life, persistent in the environment and can bio-
considered as a possible threat to health, especially if the dyes exhibit poor perspiration
accumulated in body tissue. They are similar to natural estrogen hormones and can
fastness.
disrupt sexual development in some organisms e.g. causing feminization of fish.
5.2 5.4
CHEMICAL AZO Dyes (which by reductive cleavage release one or more CHEMICAL
DYES (Which are classified to be carcinogenic)
GROUP 2 aromatic amines listed below) GROUP 4
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Azo dyes are dyes which contain at least one azo bond (-N=N-) within the molecule. In
textiles and apparels, azo dyes are commonly used as colorant. Used as textile dyestuffs, see also Chemical Group 2 and 3
Although the discussions of genotoxic substances in textiles in recent years have focused
Certain azo dyes can break down during use and release harmful aromatic amines. The on azo dyes splitting off carcinogenic amines, the classification of carcinogenic dyes
listed aromatic amines are classified as carcinogens. should not be limited to those azo dyes. These textile dyes classified by their nature may
also give rise to mutagenic effects.
5.5 5.6
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL
BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS
GROUP 5 GROUP 6
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Biocides are compounds used to kill or harm living organisms. Chlorinated Organic Carriers are used in batch dyeing of synthetic fibers, particularly
polyester fibers, to promote the absorption and diffusion of disperse dyes into the fiber at
Triclosan can be used as disinfectant and as an antibacterial agent in textiles.
relative low temperatures. These carriers are also important for dyeing blended fibers of
Dimethylfumarate is a fungicide applied to prevent mildew/mould.
wool and polyester as wool cannot withstand dyeing at high temperatures. Nevertheless,
Pentachlorophenol and its substitutes, like tetra- and trichlorophenols, are used as
the carriers will remain on the textile material or partially evaporate during subsequent
fungicides, insecticides, mollusicidse, algicides, disinfectants, and as anti-fouling paint
processes.
ingredients, bactericides in the tanning and paper pulp industries. In fact, PCP is one
of the most widely used biocides in the wood, textile, leather and paper industries. TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
o-Phenylphenol can be used for its preservative properties in leather or as a carrier in
dyeing processes.
Most of these carriers are toxic to humans and aquatic organisms, and some are even
TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
carcinogenic.
Biocides are biologically active substances, and their toxic and biocidal nature enables
them to kill or harm living things. Since biocides by nature are used to have detrimental
effects on biological organisms, they are at the same time a serious threat to living
organisms that were not intended to be controlled. Biocides have adverse effects on the
nervous system when entering into the human body. They may irritate eyes, skin, and the 5.7
CHEMICAL
respiratory system. CHLORINATED PARAFFINS
GROUP 7
Tricosan can damage the liver, kidneys, heart and lungs, suppresses the immune
system. INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Chlorinated paraffin products are polychlorinated alkanes and they are divided into three
DMFu is a contact allergen and is able to cause allergenic reactions, even in the
categories depending on the length of the carbon chain, short (C10-C13), medium (C14-
smallest concentrations, like fierce eczemas or burn injuries.
C17), and long (C20-C30). Short chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCP) are used primarily as
PCP is toxic when inhaled, ingested, or absorbed through the skin. Long term an extreme pressure lubricant additive in metal working fluids. Other uses are as a flame
exposure results in reproductive effects, liver and kidney damage, and cancer. retardant for plastics. They are also used as a plasticizer in rubber, paints, and adhesives.
o-Phenylphenol can cause in contact with eye severe irritation and burns with possible Further uses are as a degreasing agent in the leather production.
eye damage. For some individuals, o-phenylphenol can also irritate the skin. TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
There are potential environmental risks associated with the life cycle of chlorinated
paraffin. SCCPs are classified as dangerous to the environment, being very toxic to
aquatic organisms, and may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.
5.8 5.10
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE, SOLUBLE &
FLAME RETARDANTS
GROUP 8 GROUP 10 RELEASABLE
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Heavy metals are found in dyestuffs and used as dye-fixing agents. They also occur in
natural fibers like cotton.
Brominated flame retardants are used in a wide range of products like automobiles,
electronics and textiles because of their stability and heat resistance. Cadmium is a naturally occurring and abundant metal. In textiles and apparels,
cadmium is usually used in plastics, dyes (usually red, orange, yellow and green) and
metal accessories. Cadmium is also a well-known stabilizer for the manufacturing of
polymers like PVC and PU. As cadmium is relatively hard to oxidize, it is often used as a
TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
coating agent.
Chromium VI is rarely found in nature, but in the chemistry world, it is a fairly good
PBBs and PBBEs/PBDEs are as toxic as PCBs and DDT. These compounds are
oxidizing agent. In textiles and apparels, chromium VI is usually associated with
suspected to be carcinogenic, and their stability also makes them dangerous to wildlife.
plastics, dyes and tanned leather.
They persist once they enter the environment and food chain, and are likely to pass up
Cobalt dichloride is used as a humidity indicator in silica gel.
the food chain.
Lead is a metal which can be found naturally in some ores. In textiles and apparels,
lead is associated with plastics, paints, dyes and metal accessories.
Nickel is a naturally occurring metal. In textiles and apparels, nickel is usually
associated with paints, inks, trims, plastics and metal accessories.
5.9
CHEMICAL TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
FORMALDEHYDE Many heavy metals are bio-accumulative when absorbed by human body through
GROUP 9
perspiration and give cause for concern in health terms such as chronic toxicity, allergenic
INDUSTRIAL USAGE reactions and cancers.
Formaldehyde is a volatile organic compound whose chemical properties make it suitable Cadmium and its derivatives are often suspected to be carcinogens.
to be used as an anti-creasing and anti-shrinking agent. It can even blend with phenol and Chromium VI is a known carcinogen and corrosive to skin. Skin contact with certain
urea to form polymeric resins. In textiles and apparels, formaldehyde may be found in chromium VI compounds can cause skin ulcers.
stiffened and permanent pressed fabric. Cobalt dichloride is a known carcinogen and can also result in reproductive
impairments. Furthermore cobalt dichloride is classified as dangerous to the
environment, being very toxic to aquatic organisms, and may cause long-term adverse
TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
effects in the aquatic environment
Lead and its derivatives are suspected carcinogens and lead itself can adversely
affect the human central nervous system, kidney and immune system.
Despite its multi-function properties, formaldehyde is a highly toxic chemical which can
Nickel and its derivatives are suspected carcinogens and can cause allergic reactions.
induce irritation to mucous membrane and even cause cancer.
5.11 5.13
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL
HEAVY METALS - TOTAL CONTENT ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS
GROUP 11 GROUP 13
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
see HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE & RELEASABLE Chemical Group 10 The major commercial applications of organotin compounds are as plastic stabilizers,
catalytic agents, industrial biocides, antifouling paints, glass coatings, and pesticides.
see HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE & RELEASABLE Chemical Group 10 TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
5.12 5.14
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL
ISOCYANATES pH VALUE
GROUP 12 GROUP 14
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Isocyanates are the raw materials that make up all polyurethane products. They react
with compounds containing alcohol (hydroxyl) groups to produce polyurethane The pH values in garments can be greatly affected by scouring, bleaching, after-
polymers, which are components of polyurethane foams, thermoplastic elastomers, treatment and final washing process involving the use of strong acids or alkalis.
spandex fibers, and polyurethane paints.
Human skins are slightly acidic in nature to inhibit bacteria growth. The pH value is a
The reactivity of isocyanates makes them harmful to living tissue. They are toxic and are measure of the acidity or basicity of a solution. Solutions with a pH less than 7 are said to
known to cause asthma in humans, both through inhalation exposure and dermal contact. be acidic and solutions with a pH greater than 7 are basic or alkaline. Textiles with a too
high or low pH may cause irritation to skin when in contact.
5.15 5.17
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL
PHTHALATES POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAH)
GROUP 15 GROUP 17
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
PAHs are produced by the incomplete combustion of organic materials such as wood, oil
Phthalates have diverse uses in modern commerce. One of their primary uses is as a
and animal fats. PAHs are less water-soluble, evaporable and degradable and attach
plasticizer in flexible polyvinyl chloride (PVC) products such as blood bags and children's
themselves to organic particulate matter. PAH contaminations have been found not only
toys, etc. They are also used as fixatives, detergents, lubricating oils, and solvents. As a
in rubber but also in various plastics.
result of these diverse uses, phthalates are found in many consumer products, such as
textiles, footwear, cosmetics. TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
The assumption that PAHs in consumer products can be considered a possible source of
see HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE & RELEASABLE Chemical Group 10 risk is suggested by the fact that, for a number of these substances, carcinogenicity and
mutagenicity as well as toxicity to reproduction (so-called CMR properties) have been
Phthalates can alter the estrogen level in human and animal hormonal systems, resulting demonstrated in experiments
in serious health problems such as cancers and reproductive and developmental
impairments. 5.18
CHEMICAL
POLYMERS & POLYMER AUXILIARIES
GROUP 18
5.16
CHEMICAL INDUSTRIAL USAGE
PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS
GROUP 16 Polystyrene: Buttons, beads, sequins, and other decorations made of polystyrene are
commonly found to melt on exposure to dry-cleaning solvent.
INDUSTRIAL USAGE
PVC has been found to be useful in many applications including packaging, furniture,
PFOS (Perfluorooctane sulfonates) related substances have been used to provide soil, oil
household appliances, electric/electronic appliances, automotive and many others. In
and water resistance to textiles, apparels, leather, footwear, home furnishings and
order to provide the range of properties needed in finished products, PVC polymer is
upholstery, and automotive interiors. In textile processing, PFOS substances are also
mixed with a number of additives such as fillers, stabilizers, lubricants, plasticizers,
used as wetting agents to improve the coverage and penetration of substances, achieve
pigments, and flame retardants.
finish-on-yarn uniformity, and enhance dyeing and as a binder in non-woven fabrics.
PFOS have a potential for long range environmental transport and are classified as Technical MDA is mainly used as precursor to methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) for
persistent organic pollutants (POPs) under the Stockholm Convention, with poorly PU production and as hardener for epoxy resins.
understood but significant health risks to wildlife and people.
Bisphenol A (BPA) is used in the production of epoxy resins and plastics.
TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
When PVC is heated or disposed of, there is a potential risk of emitting a number of
PFOS have a potential for long range environmental transport and are classified as degradable compounds, such as highly toxic dioxins and hydrogen chloride. The German
persistent organic pollutants (POPs) under the Stockholm Convention, with poorly Federal Ministry of the Environment (Germany) which recommends a phase-out of
understood but significant health risks to wildlife and people. flexible PVC for those applications where safer alternatives are available.
Technical MDA is classified as carcinogenic Cat.1B
5.19 5.20
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL N-NITROSAMINE & N-NITROSAMINE CONVERTIBLE
SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC)
GROUP 19 GROUP 20 SUBSTANCES
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Organic solvents are widely used in industry and in our daily lifes. They can be found in
adhesives, paints and sprays, and are used in dry-cleaning and printing processes.
Nitrosamines are used in the manufacture of some cosmetics, pesticides, and in rubber
N,N-Dimethylformamide (DMFa) is a common solvent for chemical reactions. Dimethyl products.
formamide is used in the production of acrylic fibers, polyurethane and plastics.
The ZDHC MRSL should be communicated widely across the supply chain Note:
including raw material suppliers, all sub-contractors and factories assembling or The ZDHC MRSL does not replace our C&A Restricted Substances List (RSL).
manufacturing garments and footwear for C&A. C&A expect that suppliers and Chemical formulations also must fully comply with all C&A RSL requirements and all
factories work in partnership with their chemical suppliers to ensure that listed applicable legal restrictions, including any subsequent restrictions that establish
substances are not presented in chemical formulations above set limits. C&A more strict limits.
suppliers and factories are expected to, at a minimum, obtain self-declarations from
chemical suppliers stating clear conformance to the ZDHC MRSL.
C&A will require factories with wet-processing, specifically those involved with
dyeing, finishing, printing and washing, to conduct, on request, wastewater
sampling to screen for hazardous substances listed on the MRSL and a sustainable
chemical management audit including an in-depth review of the chemical inventory.
The testing parameters, test methods and detection limits for waste water testing
are set out in Chapter 10.1. If you are found to contravene any element of this MRSL
policy or your on-site chemical management performance is not meeting C&A
standards then a short-term corrective action plan will be put into place with
approval from the factories top management and C&A stating necessary
remediation actions and timelines.
At the time of writing, the current version of the ZDHC MRSL is Version 1.1, as
attached in Appendix 12.2. The ZDHC MRSL is a living document and will be
6.1 The testing parameters, test methods and detection limits for waste watertable
Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
1. AP & APEO Octylphenol OP Various 1
Nonylphenol NP Various 1
Octylphenol Ethoxylates OP1EO Various 5 With Reference to DIN EN ISO 18857 and followed by GC/MS or LC/MS
Nonylphenol Ethoxylates OPEO (2-16) Various 5 analysis
Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
3. Flame Retardants Polybromobiphenyls (PBBs) 59536-65-1 0.05
Monobromobiphenyl (MonoBB) - 0.05
Dibromobiphenyl (DiBB) - 0.05
Tribromobiphenyl (TriBB) - 0.05
Tetrabromobiphenyl (TetraBB) - 0.05
Pentabromobiphenyl (PentaBB) - 0.05
Hexabromobiphenyl (HexaBB) - 0.05
Heptabromobiphenyl (HeptaBB) - 0.05
Octabromobiphenyl (OctaBB) - 0.05
Nonabromobiphenyl (NonaBB) - 0.05
Decabromobipheny (DecaBB) 13654-09-6 0.05
Polybromodiphenyl ethers (PBDEs) Various 0.05
Monobromodiphenyl ethers (MonoBDE) - 0.05
Dibromodiphenyl ethers (DiBDE) - 0.05
Tribromodiphenyl ethers (TriBDE) - 0.05
Tetrabromodiphenyl ethers (TetraBDE) 40088-47-9 0.05
Solvent extraction with GC/MS or LC/MS analysis
Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) 32534-81-9 0.05
Hexabromodiphenyl ethers (HexaBDE) 36483-60-0 0.05
Heptabromodiphenyl ethers (HeptaBDE) 68928-80-3 0.05
Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) 32536-52-0 0.05
Nonabromodiphenyl ethers (NonaBDE) 63936-56-1 0.05
Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) 1163-19-5 0.05
Tris(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate
126-72-7 0.5
(TRIS/TDBPP)
Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) 79-94-7 0.5
Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate
5412-25-9 0.5
(BIS/BDBPP)
Hexabromocyclododecane (HBCDD) 3194-55-6 0.5
2,2-Bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol
3296-90-0 0.5
(BBMP)
Tris(aziridinyl)-phosphineoxide (TEPA) 545-55-1 0.5
Bis(2,3-dibromopropylether) of
21850-44-2 0.5
Tetrabromobisphenol (BDBPT)
Tris(2-chloroethyl) phosphate (TCEP) 115-96-8 0.5
Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate
13674-87-8 0.5
(TDCP)
Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
4. Azo Dyes 4-Aminodiphenyl 92-67-1 0.5
Benzidine 92-87-5 0.5
4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2 0.5
2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8 0.5
o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3 0.5
5-nitro-o-toluidine 99-55-8 0.5
4-Chloroaniline 106-47-8 0.5
4-Methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 615-05-4 0.5
4,4`-Diaminodiphenylmethane 101-77-9 0.5
3,3`-Dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1 0.5
3,3`-Dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4 0.5
3,3`-Dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7 0.5
With reference to EN 14362-1 & 3 and
4,4`-Methylenedi-o-toluidine 838-88-0 0.5
followed by GC/MS and HPLC Analysis.
p-Cresidine 120-71-8 0.5
4,4`-Methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) 101-14-4 0.5
4,4`-Oxydianiline 101-80-4 0.5
4,4`-Thiodianiline 139-65-1 0.5
o-Toluidine 95-53-4 0.5
4-Methyl-m-phenylenediamine 95-80-7 0.5
2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7 0.5
o-Anisidine 90-04-0 0.5
4-Aminoazobenzene 60-09-3 0.5
2,4-Xylidine 95-68-1 0.5
2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7 0.5
Aniline 62-53-3 0.5
5. Organotin Compounds Monobutyltin (MBT) Various 0.01
Dibutyltin (DBT) Various 0.01
Dioctyltin (DOT) Various 0.01
Tributyltin (TBT) Various 0.01
Triphenyltin (TPhT) Various 0.01
Tricyclohexyltin (TCyT) Various 0.01 With reference to DIN EN17353 and followed by GC/MS analysis.
Trioctyltin (TOT) Various 0.01
Tripropyltin (TPT) Various 0.01
Monooctyltin (MOT) Various 0.01
Diphenyltin (DPhT) Various 0.01
Tetrabutyltin (TeBT) 1461-25-2 0.01
Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
6. PFCs Perfluoro-n-octanoic acid (PFOA) 335-67-1/ 335-95-5 0.01
Perfluorobutanesulfonic acid (PFBS) 375-73-5 0.01
Perfluorooctanesulfonic acid (PFOS) 1763-23-1 0.01
LC/MS analysis
Perfluorohexanesulfonic acid (PFHxS) 355-46-4 0.01
Perfluoro-n-hexanoic acid (PFHxA) 307-24-4 0.01
Perfluorobutyric Acid (PFBA) 375-22-4 0.01
7. Chlorobenzenes Chlorobenzene 108-90-7 0.5
Dichlorobenzenes Various 0.5
1,2-Dichlorobenzene 95-50-1 0.5
1,3-Dichlorobenzene 541-73-1 0.5
1,4-Dichlorobenzene 106-46-7 0.5
Trichlorobenzenes Various 0.5
1,2,3-Trichlorobenzene 87-61-6 0.5
1,2,4-Trichlorobenzene 120-82-1 0.5 Solvent extraction with GC/MS analysis
1,3,5-Trichlorobenzene 108-70-3 0.5
Tetrachlorobenzenes Various 0.5
1,2,3,4-Tetrachlorobenzene 634-66-2 0.5
1,2,3,5-Tetrachlorobenzene 634-90-2 0.5
1,2,4,5-Tetrachlorobenzene 95-94-3 0.5
Pentachlorobenzene 608-93-5 0.5
Hexachlorobenzene 118-74-1 0.5
8. Chlorinated Solvents 1,2-Dichloroethane 107-06-2 1
1,1-Dichloroethylene 75-35-4 1
Methylene Chloride 75-09-2 1
cis-1,2-Dichloroethylene 156-59-2 1
trans-1,2-Dichloroethylene 156-60-5 1
Chloroform 67-66-3 1
1,1,1-Trichloroethane 71-55-6 1 Headspace
Carbon Tetrachloride 56-23-5 1 GC-MS analysis.
Trichloroethylene 79-01-6 1
1,1,2-Trichloroethane 79-00-5 1
1,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane 630-20-6 1
Tetrachloroethylene 127-18-4 1
1,1-Dichloroethane 75-34-3 1
1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane 79-34-5 1
Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
9. Chlorophenols Pentachlorophenol (PCP) 87-86-5 0.5
Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) Various 0.5
2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol 4901-51-3 0.5
2,3,4,6-Tetrachlorophenol 58-90-2 0.5
2,3,5,6-Tetrachlorophenol 935-95-5 0.5
Trichlorophenol (TriCP) Various 0.5
2,4,6-Trichlorophenol 88-06-2 0.5
2,3,5-Trichlorophenol 933-78-8 0.5
2,4,5-Trichlorophenol 95-95-4 0.5
3,4,5-Trichlorophenol 609-19-8 0.5
2,3,4-Trichlorophenol 15950-66-0 0.5
Solvent extraction and
2,3,6-Trichlorophenol 933-75-5 0.5
derivatisation with acetic anhydride followed by GC/MS analysis.
Dichlorophenol (DiCP) Various 0.5
2,3-Dichlorophenol 576-24-9 0.5
3,4-Dichlorophenol 95-77-2 0.5
2,4-Dichlorophenol 120-83-2 0.5
2,5-Dichlorophenol 583-78-8 0.5
2,6-Dichlorophenol 87-65-0 0.5
3,5-Dichlorophenol 591-35-5 0.5
Mono Chlorophenol (MonoCP) Various 0.5
2-Chlorophenol 95-57-8 0.5
3-Chlorophenol 108-43-0 0.5
4-Chlorophenol 106-48-9 0.5
10. Short Chained
Short chain chlorinated paraffins
Chlorinated Paraffins 85535-84-8 5 Solvent extraction with GC/MS analysis
(SCCPs)
(SCCPs)
11. Heavy Metals Cadmium(Cd) 7440-43-9 0.1
Lead(Pb) 7439-92-1 1
Mercury(Hg) 7439-97-6 0.05
Cobalt(Co) 7440-48-4 1
Nickel(Ni) 7440-02-0 1
Acid Digestion with
Antonmy(Sb) 7440-36-0 1
ICP analysis
Arsenic(As) 7440-38-2 1
Copper(Cu) 7440-50-8 1
Zinc(Zn) 7440-66-6 1
Chromium(Cr) 7440-47-3 1
Manganese(Mn) 7439-96-5 1
Chromium VI(CrVI) 18540-29-9 1 Solvent extraction and derivatisation followed by UV analysis
12. Cyanide (CN-) With reference to APHA 4500 CNB,C&E and followed by UV
Cyanide(CN-) Various 20
analysis
7 Appendix
7.1 Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) Version 1.1 (2015) of the Zero Discharge of
Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Programme
On the following pages you will find the Manufacturing Restricted Substance
List (MRSL) Version 1.1 from 2015 from the ZDHC (Zero Discharge of
Hazardous Chemicals Programme).
This MRSL & Conformance Guidance comprises the same content as the
MRSL & Conformance Guidance available under
http://www.roadmaptozero.com/programme/.
Chemical Substance technical experts allows the ZDHC Programme to develop a MRSL that
A chemical substance is a chemical element and its compounds in the pragmatically represents progress and supports our long-term goal of zero
natural state or obtained by any manufacturing process (REACH, 2014)(1) . discharge.
A chemical substance is usually identifiable by a single, unique Chemical
Abstracts Service (CAS) number or Colour Index (CI) number. The ZDHC 5 MRSL Instructions
MRSL will primarily focus on chemical substances listed by CAS number and MRSL Chapters
CI number, but also will include groups of substances for which listing
individual substances is not practical. Chapter 1: MRSL for Textiles and Synthetic Leather Processing
Commercial Chemical Formulation This section applies to chemical formulations and substances used during the
creation and wet processing of textile fibres and during the creation and processing
A commercial chemical formulation is usually a proprietary blend of several of synthetic leather.
chemical substances that is available for purchase from chemical suppliers
under their own trade name. Chapter 2: MRSL for Natural leather Processing
This section applies to chemical formulations and substances used
Usage Ban
throughout the production of natural leather, from raw-hide to finished
A usage ban indicates that the ZDHC MRSL-listed chemical substance or leather.
group of substances may not be used to achieve a desired function or effect
during production of the raw material or product (that is, no intentional use).
This usage ban extends to other uses within a facility like cleaning and
maintenance. Due to the existence of manufacturing impurities in chemical
formulations, a minor or trace amount of the restricted substance is
permitted. Chemical formulations containing restricted substances that
exceed limits are not compliant with the ZDHC MRSL.
MRSL Groups
Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product Supplier Guidance
Group A substances are banned from intentional use in facilities that process
raw materials and manufacture finished products. Please refer to the AFIRM
guidance document for the lowest agreed upon material or finished product
limits among AFIRM brands: http://afirm-group.com/afirm-rsl/. See brand
RSLs for individual requirements.
____________________________________________________________
(3) Safety Data Sheets (SDS) only list substances present at concentrations of 1000 ppm or greater. Suppliers
must communicate with chemical suppliers to ensure MRSL limits are met.
Glycol Ethers
111-96-6 Bis(2-methoxyethyl)-ether 50 ppm In apparel and footwear, glycol ethers have a
wide range of uses including as solvents for
110-80-5 2-ethoxyethanol 50 ppm finishing/cleaning, printing agents and
111-15-9 2-ethoxyethyl acetate 50 ppm dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives
(e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).
110-71-4 Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether No intentional use 50 ppm High-performance liquid
Some polar solvents (glycol ethers) are
109-86-4 2-methoxyethanol 50 ppm necessary for the use of water-based leather chromatography (HPLC), LC-MS
110-49-6 2-methoxyethylacetate 50 ppm finishing systems.
112-49-2 Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether 50 ppm The mentioned glycol ethers are classified as
carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic
70657-70-4 2-methoxypropylacetate 1000 ppm substances and should not be used in
processing leather.
Halogenated Solvents
107-06-2 1,2-dichloroethane 5 ppm
In apparel and footwear, solvents are used as
75-09-2 Methylene chloride 5 ppm finishing/cleaning and printing agents, for
No intentional use GC-MS
79-01-6 Trichloroethylene 40 ppm dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives
(e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).
127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene 5 ppm