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Supplier Quality Manual Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL)

Contents Contents

4. Restricted Substance List (RSL)


Articles produced for C&A must meet all European legal restrictions and as well all C&A RSL requirements
regarding chemical substances.

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4.1 CHEMICAL GROUP 1: ALKYLPHENOLS (AP) / ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES (APEO)

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Textiles/Plastics: Extraction with methanol, 1h, 70C, ultrasonic bath acc. to ISO 18254:2016-04 followed by GC-MS for NP/OP and by LC-MS for NPEO/OPEO
All
Leather: ISO 18218-1:2015-11 followed by GC-MS for NP/OP and by LC-MS for NPEO/OPEO

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
104-40-5
11066-49-2
1 Nonylphenol NP 25154-52-3
84852-15-3
90481-04-2
<10 3
140-66-9
2 Octylphenol OP 1806-26-4
27193-28-8
C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
9016-45-9
26027-38-3
3 Nonylphenol ethoxylates NPEO 37205-87-1
68412-54-4
127087-87-0
<100* 30
9002-93-1
4 Octylphenol ethoxylates OPEO 9036-19-5
68987-90-6

* C&A commits to eliminate the intentional use of APEO from all C&A products latest by 2020. All C&A products have to comply latest by 1st season 2017 with the
APEO limit value of 100 mg/kg, or the end of the grace period for C&A products to be fully compliant is season 1 (SN1) 2017.

The U.S. EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) identified suitable safer alternative surfactants /detergents to substitute APEO in the Program Design
for the Environment (DfE). The related list is available on the safer chemical ingredients list (SCIL) at the following link:
http://www.epa.gov/dfe/pubs/projects/npe/aa-for-NPEs-final-version5-3-12.pdf

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4.2 CHEMICAL GROUP 2: AZO COLOURANTS (AZO DYES & AZO PIGMENTS)

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Textile/Other: prEN ISO 14362-1:2015, 4-AAB: ISO/DIS 14362- 3:2015 (prEN ISO 14362-3:2015)
All Leather: ISO 17234-1:2015 and ISO 17234-2:2011
Refer to C&A Azo Colourant Test Method Procedure

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]

1 4-Aminobiphenyl 92-67-1
2 Benzidine 92-87-5
3 4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2
4 2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8
5 o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3
6 5-Nitro-o-toluidine 99-55-8
7 4-Chloroaniline 106-47-8
8 2,4-Diaminoanisole 615-05-4
9 4,4'-Diaminodiphenylmethane 4,4'-MDA 101-77-9
10 3,3'-Dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1
11 3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4
12 3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7
13 4,4'-Methylenedi-o-toluidine 838-88-0 <20 5
14 p-Cresidine 120-71-8
15 4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-Chloroaniline) 101-14-4
16 4,4'-Oxydianiline 101-80-4
17 4,4'-Thiodianiline 139-65-1
18 o-Toluidine 95-53-4
19 2,4-Toluenediamine 2,4-TDA 95-80-7
20 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7
21 o-Anisidine 90-04-0
22 2,4-Xylidine 95-68-1
23 2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7
24 4-Aminoazobenzene 4-AAB 60-09-3

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4.3 CHEMICAL GROUP 3: DISPERSE DYES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All DIN 54231:2005, weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with methanol, 70C, 30min, ultrasonic bath

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/l] [mg/l]

1 Disperse Blue 1 2475-45-8


2 Disperse Yellow 3 2832-40-8
3 Disperse Blue 3 2475-46-9
4 Disperse Blue 7 3179-90-6
5 Disperse Blue 26 3860-63-7
56524-76-7
6 Disperse Blue 35
56524-77-7
7 Disperse Blue 102 12222-97-8
8 Disperse Blue 106 12223-01-7
9 Disperse Blue 124 61951-51-7
10 Disperse Brown 1 23355-64-8
11 Disperse Orange 1 2581-69-3
<5 1
12 Disperse Orange 3 730-40-5
13 Disperse Orange 37/76/59 13301-61-6
14 Disperse Orange 149 85136-74-9
15 Disperse Red 1 2872-52-8
16 Disperse Red 11 2872-48-2
17 Disperse Red 17 3179-89-3
18 Disperse Yellow 1 119-15-3
19 Disperse Yellow 9 6373-73-5
20 Disperse Yellow 23 6250-23-3
21 Disperse Yellow 39 12236-29-2
22 Disperse Yellow 49 54824-37-2

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4.4 CHEMICAL GROUP 4: CARCINOGENIC DYES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All DIN 54231:2005, weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with methanol, 70C, 30min, ultrasonic bath

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/l] [mg/l]
1 Acid Red 26 3761-53-3
2 Basic Red 9 569-61-9
3 Basic Violet 14 632-99-5
4 Direct Red 28 573-58-0
5 Direct Black 38 1937-37-7 <5 1
6 Direct Blue 6 2602-46-2
7 Disperse Blue 1 2475-45-8
8 Disperse Orange 11 82-28-0
9 Disperse Yellow 3 2832-40-8
Disperse Navy Blue
10 Component 1: 118685-33-9 <5 2
Component 2:
C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
11 Basic Violet 3 548-62-9
12 Basic Blue 26 2580-56-5
13 Basic Green 4 (malachite green chloride) 569-64-2 <250 50
14 Basic Green 4 (malachite green oxalate) 2437-29-8
15 Basic Green 4 (malachite green) 10309-95-2

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4.5 CHEMICAL GROUP 5: BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Triclosan: Following ISO 13365 extraction with acetonitrile, 1h, RT, ultrasonic bath followed by GC-MS
DMFu: CEN ISO/TS 16186:2012; DIN SPEC 53280:2012, Extraction with acetone, 1h, 60C, ultrasonic bath, followed by GC-MS or LC-MS
BAC: Extraction with methanol, quantification by LC-MS/MS
All CPs: ISO 17070:2015
OPP: ISO 13365:2011, extraction with acetonitrile, 1h, RT, ultrasonic bath followed by GC-MS
Pesticides: Reference to US EPA method and analysis by GC-MS/ECD or LC-MS-MS
C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
Usage ban
1 Triclosan 3380-34-5 1
<10
Usage ban
2 Dimethyl fumarate DMFu 624-49-7 0.03
<0.1
Usage ban
3 Benzalkonium chloride BAC 63449-41-2 1
<1
4 Pentachlorophenol PCP 87-86-5
2,3,4,6-TeCP 58-90-2
5 Tetrachlorophenols 2,3,5,6-TeCP 935-95-5
2,3,4,5-TeCP 4901-51-3
2,3,4-TriCP 15950-66-0
2,3,5-TriCP 933-78-8
2,3,6-TriCP 933-75-5
6 Trichlorophenols
2,4,5-TriCP 95-95-4
2,4,6-TriCP 88-06-2
3,4,5-TriCP 609-19-8 <0.5 0.05
2,3-DiCP 576-24-9
2,4-DiCP 120-83-2
2,5-DiCP 583-78-8
7 Dichlorophenols
2,6-DiCP 87-65-0
3,4-DiCP 95-77-2
3,5-DiCP 591-35-5
2-CP 95-57-8
8 Monochlorophenols 3-CP 108-43-0
4-CP 106-48-9
9 o-Phenylphenol OPP 90-43-7 <50 0.5

Continued on
next page
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4.5 CHEMICAL GROUP 5: BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES continued


cont.

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
10 2,4,5-Trichlorophenoxyacetic acid 2,4,5-T 93-76-5
11 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid 2,4-D 94-75-7
135410-20-7
12 Acetamiprid
160430-64-8
13 Aldicarb 116-06-3
14 Azinophosmethyl 86-50-0
15 Azinophosethyl 2642-71-9
16 Aldrin 309-00-2
17 Bromophos-ethyl 4824-78-6
18 Captafol 2425-06-1
19 Carbaryl 63-25-2
20 Chlordane 57-74-9
21 Chlordimeform 6164-98-3
22 Chlorfenvinphos 470-90-6
23 Clothianidin 210880-92-5
24 Coumaphos 56-72-4
25 Cyfluthrin 68359-37-5
26 Cyhalothrin 91465-08-6 For baby =<0.5
27 Cypermethrin 52315-07-8
28 1,2,4-Tributylphosphorotrithioate DEF 78-48-8 0.2
29 Deltamethrin 52918-63-5
Other = 1
Mitotan, 1,1-Dichlor- 2-(2-chlorphenyl)- 2- 53-19-0
30 DDD
(4-chlorphenyl)ethane 72-54-8
1-Chlor-4-[2,2-dichlor-1-(4- 3424-82-6,
31 DDE
chlorphenyl)ethenyl]benzene 72-55-9
1,1,1-Trichlor-2,2-bis-(4- 50-29-3,
32 DDT
chlorophenyl)ethane 789-02-6
33 Diazinon 333-41-5
34 Dichlorprop 120-36-5
35 Dicrotophos 141-66-2
36 Dieldrin 60-57-1
37 Dimethoat 60-51-5
38 Dinoseb, Salze und Acetat 88-85-7 et al
39 Dinotefuran 165252-70-0
40 Endosulfan, - 959-98-8
41 Endosulfan, - 33213-65-9
42 Endrin 72-20-8
43 Esfenvalerat 66230-04-4
44 Fenvalerat 51630-58-1 Continued on
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4.5 CHEMICAL GROUP 5: BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES continued


cont.

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
45 Heptachlor 76-44-8
46 Heptachlorepoxid 1024-57-3
47 Hexachlorbenzol 118-74-1
48 Hexachlorcyclohexan, - 319-84-6
49 Hexachlorcyclohexan, - 319-85-7
50 Hexachlorcyclohexan, - 319-86-8
105827-78-9
51 Imidacloprid
138261-41-3
52 Isodrin 465-73-6
53 Kelevan 4234-79-1
54 Kepon 143-50-0
55 Lindan 58-89-9
56 Malathion 121-75-5
57 2-Methyl-4-chlorophenoxyacetic acid MCPA 94-74-6
58 (2-Methyl-4-Chlorophenoxy) butyric acid MCPB 94-81-5
59 Mecoprop 93-65-2
60 Metamidophos 10265-92-6
For baby =<0.5
61 Methoxychlor 72-43-5
62 Mirex 2385-85-5 0.2
63 Monocrotophos 6923-22-4
64 Nitenpyram 150824-47-8 Other = 1
65 Parathion 56-38-2
66 Parathion-methyl 298-00-0

67 Perthan 72-56-0

68 Phosdrin/Mevinphos 7786-34-7
69 Propethamphos 31218-83-4
70 Profenophos 41198-08-7
71 Quinalphos 13593-03-8
72 Stroban 8001-50-1
73 Telodrin 297-78-9
74 Thiacloprid 111988-49-9
75 Thiamethoxam 153719-23-4
76 Toxaphen (Camphechlor) 8001-35-2
77 Trifluralin 1582-09-8

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4.6 CHEMICAL GROUP 6: CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS (COC)

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All DIN 54232:2010, weight of sample taken 2g, extraction with dichloromethane, 30 min, RT followed by GC-MS

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]

1 Chlorobenzene 108-90-7
1,2-DiCB 95-50-1
2 Dichlorobenzenes 1,3-DiCB 541-73-1
1,4-DiCB 106-46-7
1,2,3-TriCB 87-61-6
3 Trichlorobenzenes 1,2,4-TriCB 120-82-1
1,3,5-TriCB 108-70-3
1,2,3,4-TeCB 634-66-2
4 Tetrachlorobenzenes 1,2,3,5-TeCB 634-90-2
1,2,4,5-TeCB 95-94-3
5 Pentachlorobenzene PCB 608-93-5
6 Hexachlorobenzene HCB 118-74-1
2-CT 95-49-8
7 Monochlorotoluenes 3-CT 108-41-8 <1.0
0.1
4-CT 106-43-4 (total)
2,3-DiCT 32768-54-0
2,4-DiCT 95-73-8
2,5-DiCT 19398-61-9
8 Dichlorotoluenes
2,6-DiCT 118-69-4
3,4-DiCT 95-75-0
3,5-DiCT 25186-47-4
2,3,6-TriCT 2077-46-5
9 Trichlorotoluenes 2,4,5-TriCT 6639-30-1
,,,-TriCT 98-07-7
,,,4-TetraCT 5216-25-1
10 Tetrachlorotoluenes ,,,2-TetraCT 2136-89-2
2,6,,-TetraCT 81-19-6
11 Pentachlorotoluene PCT 877-11-2

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4.7 CHEMICAL GROUP 7: CHLORINATED PARAFFINS

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All Leather: ISO 18219:2015, weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with n-hexane, 60C, 1h, ultrasonic bath, analysis by GC-MS-NCI

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
Short chain chlorinated paraffin
1
(C10 - C13)
SCCP 85535-84-8 <100 30
Medium chain chlorinated paraffin
2
(C14 - C17)
MCCP 85535-85-9 <1000 100

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4.8 CHEMICAL GROUP 8: FLAME RETARDANTS

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

No.1 to No.13: Solvent extraction followed by GC-MS or LC-MS-MS


All Boric Acid: Acid digestion followed by ICP analysis
TPP / TCP: Extraction with toluene, 2h, 100C followed by GC-MS
C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
Usage ban
1 Tris-(2,3-dibromopropyl)-phosphate TRIS 126-72-7 10
<10
Usage ban
2 Tris(aziridinyl)-phosphineoxide TEPA 545-55-1 10
<10
3 Polybromobiphenyls PBB 59536-65-1
Bis(2,3-dibromopropylether) of
4 BDBPT 21850-44-2
tetrabromobisphenol
5 Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl)phosphate BBP 5412-25-9
6 Octabromodiphenyl Ether OctaBDE 32536-52-0
7 Pentabromodiphenyl Ether PentaBDE 32534-81-9
Usage ban
8 Decabromodiphenyl Ether DecaBDE 1163-19-5 10
<10
25637-99-4
9 Hexabromocyclododecane HBCDD
3194-55-6
10 Tris-(2-chloroethyl)-phosphate TCEP 115-96-8
11 Tetrabromobisphenol A TBBPA 79-94-7
12 Tris(1,3-dichloro-propyl)-phospate TDCP 13674-87-8
13 2,2-Bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol BBMP 3296-90-0
10043-35-3
14 Boric Acid
11113-50-1
<1000 50
Usage ban
15 Triphenyl phosphate TPP 115-86-6 10
<10
o-o-o-TCP
o-o-m-TCP
o-o-p-TCP
o-m-m-TCP
o-p-p-TCP
Usage ban
16 Tricresyl phosphate (all 10 isomers) o-m-p-TCP 1330-78-5 10
m-m-m-TCP <10
m-m-p-TCP
p-p-p-TCP
p-p-m-TCP

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4.9 CHEMICAL GROUP 9: FORMALDEHYDE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Textile, Wood, Paper: ISO 14184-01, weight of sample taken 1g, extraction with water, 1h, 40C, sealed vessel followed by UV/VIS (412nm) analysis
All Leather/other: EN ISO 17226-01:2008, weight of sample taken 2g, extraction with detergent solution, 1h, 40C, sealed vessel followed by HPLC- UV (360nm) analysis

RESTRICTED C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. SHORTCUT CAS No.
SUBSTANCE [mg/kg] [mg/kg]
Textiles: baby articles 16
Textiles: with direct skin contact 75
Textiles: without direct skin
1 Formaldehyde 50-00-0 contact
300 5
Leather & Shoes:
children <36 months
50
Leather & Shoes 150

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4.10 CHEMICAL GROUP 10 PART 1: HEAVY METALS EXTRACTABLE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Textiles, Trims: Extraction with acid perspiration according to EN ISO 105-E04, no requirements for accessories made from metallic materials *)
All Leather: EN ISO 17075 after aging, aging conditions: 24 H/ 80 degrees C./ 5% r.H., closed static drying oven, no fresh air supply, no ventilator

RESTRICTED C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. SHORTCUT CAS No.
SUBSTANCE [mg/kg] [mg/kg]

Applicable for Textiles & Trims


for baby wear others
1 Antimony Sb 7440-36-0 <30 <30 0.5
2 Arsenic As 7440-38-2 <0.2 <1.0 0.02
3 Cadmium Cd 7440-43-9 <0.1 <0.1 0.02
4 Chromium Cr 7440-47-3 <1.0 <2.0 0.1
5 Cobalt Co 7440-48-4 <1.0 <4.0 0.1
6 Copper *) Cu 7440-50-8 <25 *) <50 *) 5.0
7 Lead Pb 7439-92-1 <0.2 <1.0 0.1
8 Mercury Hg 7439-97-6 <0.02 <0.02 0.005
9 Nickel Ni 7440-02-0 <1.0 <4.0 0.1
Applicable for Leather Items
RESTRICTED C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT
No. SHORTCUT CAS No. No.
SUBSTANCE [mg/kg] [mg/kg]
Usage ban
1 Chromium (VI) Cr (VI) 18540-29-9 1 1
<3

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4.11 CHEMICAL GROUP 10 - PART 2: HEAVY METALS SOLUBLE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All Toys: Extraction with simulated gastric solution acc. to EN 71-3:2014

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]

Applicable for Toys

Category I Category II Category III Category I Category II Category III

Fluid or viscous Solid materials which Fluid or viscous Solid materials which
Solid materials which Solid materials which
materials which can can be ingested by materials which can can be ingested by
may leave residues may leave residues on
be ingested or have biting, tooth scraping, be ingested or have biting, tooth scraping,
on the hands the hands
skin contact sucking or licking skin contact sucking or licking
1 Aluminium Al 7429-90-5 5625 1406 70000 50 50 50
2 Antimony Sb 7440-36-0 45 11.3 560 1 1 10
3 Arsenic As 7440-38-2 3.8 0.9 47 0.5 0.5 10
4 Barium Ba 7440-39-3 1500 375 18750 50 50 50
5 Boron B 7440-42-8 1200 300 15000 50 50 50
6 Cadmium Cd 7440-43-9 1.3 0.3 17 0.1 0.1 5
7 Chromium (III) Cr (III) 7440-47-3 37.5 9.4 460 1 1 1
8 Chromium (VI) Cr (VI) 18540-29-9 0.02 0.005 0.2 0.018 0.005 0.18
9 Cobalt Co 7440-48-4 10.5 2.6 130 0.5 0.5 10
10 Copper Cu 7440-50-8 622.5 156 7700 50 50 50
11 Lead Pb 7439-92-1 13.5 3.4 160 0.5 0.5 10
12 Manganese Mn 7439-96-5 1200 300 15000 50 50 50
13 Mercury Hg 7439-97-6 7.5 1.9 94 0.5 0.5 10
14 Nickel Ni 7440-02-0 75 18.8 930 10 10 10
15 Selenium Se 7782-49-2 37.5 9.4 460 5 5 10
16 Strontium Sr 7440-24-6 4500 1125 56000 50 50 50
17 Tin Sn 7440-31-5 15000 3750 180000 0.36 0.08 4.9
18 Organic Tin Sn various 0.9 0.2 12 -- -- --
19 Zinc Zn 7440-66-6 3750 938 46000 50 50 50

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4.12 CHEMICAL GROUP 10 - PART 3: HEAVY METALS SOLUBLE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All Extraction with simulated gastric solution acc. to EN 71-3:1995

C&A LIMIT DETECTION LIMIT


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]

Applicable for Garment Components

1 Antimony Sb 7440-36-0 <60 5

2 Arsenic As 7440-38-2 <25 2.5

3 Barium Ba 7440-39-3 <1000 5

4 Cadmium Cd 7440-43-9 <75 5

5 Chromium Cr 7440-47-3 <60 5

6 Lead Pb 7439-92-1 <90 5

7 Mercury Hg 7439-97-6 <60 5

8 Selenium Se 7782-49-2 <500 5

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4.13 CHEMICAL GROUP 10 - PART 4: HEAVY METALS RELEASABLE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Applicable for all Metal Items (e.g. earrings, piercings, necklaces, bracelets,
Nickel indication: Rubbing test by CR 12471
chains, anklets, rings, watch straps, buttons, zippers, spectacle frames)

Metal - In metal products or parts of products intended to be used for


Nickel release by EN 1811:2015
body piercings
Abrasion of coated items by EN 12472
Metal - In metal products or parts of products in direct and prolonged skin
*uncertainty included
contact

Metal - Spectacle frames and sunglasses intended to come into close and Nickel release according to EN 16128
prolonged contact with the skin Abrasion of coated items by EN 12472

C&A LIMIT Detection Limit


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[g/cm/week] [g/cm/week]

Body piercings <0.35*

Direct and prolonged skin


1 Nickel Ni 7440-02-0
contact
<0.88* 0.10

Spectacle frames and


sunglasses
<0.50

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4.14 CHEMICAL GROUP 11: HEAVY METALS TOTAL CONTENT

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Cadmium: EN 1122:2001

Chromium: DIN EN ISO 17072-2

Lead: DIN EN 14602:2012, weight of sample taken 1g, acid or microwave digestion followed by ICP or AAS

Cobalt dichloride: Microwave digestion followed by ICP/MS, calculated from the cobalt content

Electronic components, packaging materials: IEC 62321


C&A LIMIT Detection Limit
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
for all polymer materials:
(e.g. beads, pearls, Usage ban
diamonties <10
1 Cadmium Cd 7440-43-9 (incl. jewellery) 3

for metal parts of jewellery <100

chromium free tanned


2 Chromium Cr 7440-47-3
leather
<1000 1
Textiles, leather, plastics,
3 Lead Pb 7439-92-1 metals, electronics, <90 3
packaging, jewellery
Usage ban
4 Cobalt dichloride Co 7646-79-9 only for desiccants 1
<1

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4.15 CHEMICAL GROUP 12: ISOCYANATES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Plastic and PU materials DIN EN 13130-8

C&A LIMIT Detection Limit


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]

1 Hexamethylene diisocyanate HDI 822-06-0 <50

2 Isophorone diisocyanate IPDI 4098-71-9 <20

3 2,4-Toluene diisocyanate TDI 584-84-9 <5

4 2,6-Toluene diisocyanate TDI 91-08-7 <5


5
5 2,2-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate 2,2-MDI 2536-05-2 <5

6 2,4-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate 2,4-MDI 5873-54-1 <5

7 4,4-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate 4,4-MDI 101-68-8 <5

8 Tetramethylxylene diisocyanate TMXD 2778-42-9 <20

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4.16 CHEMICAL GROUP 13: ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

CEN ISO/TS 16179:2012-12; DIN SPEC 91179:2012-12, weight of sample taken 1g, extraction with methanol/ethanol (80/20), 1h, 60C, ultrasonic bath followed by
Plastics, synthetic fibres, prints, coatings GC-MS

C&A LIMIT Detection Limit


No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]

1 Monobutyltin MBT 78763-54-9

2 Monooctyltin MOT 3091-25-6

3 Monomethyltin MMT 23001-26-5

4 Monophenyltin MPhT 2406-68-0

5 Diphenyltin DPhT 1011-95-6

6 Dibutyltin DBT 14488-53-0


<0.5
15231-44-4
7 Dioctyltin DOT
3542-36-7
8 Dimethyltin DMT 753-73-1 0.05
others:
9 Tributyltin TBT 56573-85-4
<1.0
10 Triphenyltin TPhT 668-34-8

11 Tricyclohexyltin TCyHT 3091-32-5

12 Trioctyltin TOT 2587-76-0

13 Tripropyltin TPT 2279-76-7

14 Trimethyltin TMT 1066-45-1

15 Tetrabutyltin TebT 1461-25-2

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4.17 CHEMICAL GROUP 14 : pH VALUE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Textile: ISO 3071 (extraction with potassium chloride solution)


Textile, Leather
Leather: ISO 4045

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT [pH value] Detection Limit

baby articles and articles with


direct skin contact
4.0 7.5
1 pH value
articles without direct skin
contact
4.0 9.0

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4.18 CHEMICAL GROUP 15: PLASTICIZER (PHTHALATES AND OTHERS)


(this restriction is valid for all articles, for all ages and whether or not designed for, or indeed capable of, being placed in the mouth)

PHTHALATES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Synthetic fibres, plastics, coatings, prints Textiles: ISO 14389


Other: Extraction with tetrahydrofurane (THF) followed by precipitation with acetonitrile, determination with GC-MS
TPP / TCP: Extraction with toluene, 2h, 100C followed
by GC-MS
C&A LIMIT Detection Limit
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
1 Di-iso-butyl phthalate DIBP 84-69-5
2 Di-iso-nonyl phthalate DINP 28553-12-0
3 Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl) phthalate DEHP 117-81-7
4 Di-n-octyl phthalate DNOP 117-84-0
5 Di-iso-decyl phthalate DIDP 26761-40-0
6 Butyl-benzyl phthalate BBP 85-68-7
7 Di-butyl phthalate DBP 84-74-2
8 Di-(C7-C11 alkyl) phthalate linear and branched DHNUP 68515-42-4
9 Di-(C6-C8 alkyl) phthalate branched DIHP 71888-89-6
10 Bis-(2-methoxy-ethyl) phthalate BMEP 117-82-8
11 Di-n-hexyl phthalate DHP 84-75-3 Sum of 23 phthalates may not exceed the
12 1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, dipentylester, branched & linear 84777-06-0 limit
50
13 Di-iso-pentyl phthalate DIPP 605-50-5
<1000
14 N-pentyl-iso-pentyl phthalate PIPP 776297-69-9
15 Di-pentyl phthalate DPP 131-18-0
16 Dicyclohexylphthalate DCHP 84-61-7
17 Dinonylphthalate DNP 84-76-4
18 Diethylphthalate DEP 84-66-2
19 Di-n-propylphthalate DPRP 131-16-8
20 Di-iso-octylphthalate DIOP 27554-26-3
21 1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid - dihexylester branched & linear 68515-50-4
22 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-10-alkyl esters 68515-51-5
1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, mixed decyl and hexyl and octyl diesters
23 68648-93-1
with 0.3% of dihexyl phthalate
OTHERS

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD


Usage ban
24 Triphenyl phosphate TPP 115-86-6 10
<10
Tricresyl phosphate Usage ban
25 TCP 1330-78-5 10
(all 10 isomers) <10

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4.19 CHEMICAL GROUP 16: PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS


MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD
No. 1-26: CEN/TS 15968, solvent extraction followed by LC-MS
All No. 27-33: CEN/TS 15968, solvent extraction with MTBE, 40 C, ultrasonic bath, 1h, GC inlet temperature 130 C, analysis by GC-MS and further confirmation by LC-
MS/MS for no. 30-33
C&A LIMIT Detection Limit
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[g/m] [g/m]
2795-39-3
1 Perfluoro-octane sulfonic acid PFOS 56773-42-3
1763-23-1
2 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-octane sulfonic acid 1H,1H,2H,2H-PFOS 27619-97-2
3 Perfluoro-octanoic acid PFOA 335-67-1
29420-49-3
4 Perfluoro-butane sulfonic acid PFBS
375-73-5
3871-99-6
5 Perfluoro-hexane sulfonic acid PFHxS
355-46-4
6 Perfluoro-heptane sulfonic acid PFHpS 375-92-8
7 Perfluoro-decane sulfonic acid PFDS 335-77-3
8 Perfluoro-octane sulphonamide 1H,1H,2H,2H H4PFOS; 6:2 PFOSA 754-91-6
9 N-methylperfluoro-1-octanesulfonamide MeFOSA 31506-32-8
10 N-ethylperfluoro-1-octanesulfonamide EtFOSA 4151-50-2
11 2-(N-methylperfluoro-FASE 1- octanesulfonamido)-ethanol MeFOSE 24448-09-7
12 2-(N-ethylperfluoro-1-octanesulfonamido)- ethanol EtFOSE 1691-99-2
13 Perfluoro-butanoic acid PFBA 375-22-4 each
14 Perfluoro-pentanoic acid PFPA 2706-90-3 1
<1
15 Perfluoro-hexanoic acid PFHxA 307-24-4
16 Perfluoro-heptanoic acid PFHpA 375-85-9
17 Perfluoro-nonanoic acid PFNA 375-95-1
18 Perfluoro-decanoic acid PFDA 335-76-2
4234-23-5
19 Perfluoro-undecanoic acid PFUnA
2058-94-8
20 Perfluoro-dodecanoic acid PFDoA 307-55-1
21 Perfluoro-tridecanoic acid PFTrA 72629-94-8
22 Perfluoro-tetradecanoic acid PFTeA 376-06-7
23 Perfluoro-3,7-dimethyl-octanoic acid PF-3,7-DMOA 172155-07-6
24 7H-Dodecanefluoro-heptanoic acid HPFHpA 1546-95-8
25 2H,2H-Perfluoro-decanoic acid H2PFDA 27854-31-5
26 2H,2H,3H,3H-Perfluoro-undecanoic acid H4PFUnA 34598-33-9
27 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-octylacrylate 6:2 FTA 17527-29-6
28 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro decylacrylate 8:2 FTA 27905-45-9
29 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-dodecylacrylate 10:2 FTA 17741-60-5
30 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-hexanol 4:2 FTOH 2043-47-2
31 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-oktanol 6:2 FTOH 647-42-7
<10 10
32 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-decanol 8:2 FTOH 678-39-7
33 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-dodecanol 10:2 FTOH 865-86-1

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4.20 CHEMICAL GROUP 17: POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAH)


MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD
All AfPS GS 2014:01: Weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with toluene, 1h, 60C, ultrasonic bath, column clean up followed by GC-MS analysis
C&A LIMIT Detection Limit
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
1 Benzo(a)pyrene 50-32-8
2 Benzo(e)pyrene 192-97-2
3 Benzo(a)anthracene 56-55-3
4 Chrysene 218-01-9
5 Dibenzo(a,h)anthracene 53-70-3
6 Benzo(b)fluoranthene 205-99-2
18 PAH for toys and childcare articles:
7 Benzo(j)fluoranthene 205-82-3
8 Benzo(k)fluoranthene 207-08-9
<0.5 (each),
9 Acenaphthene 83-32-9
others: 0.2
10 Acenaphthylene 208-96-8
<1 (each)
11 Anthracene 120-12-7
12 Fluoranthene 206-44-0
Sum of 18 PAH for all articles: <10
13 Fluorene 86-73-7
14 Indeno(1,2,3-c,d)pyrene 193-39-5
15 Napthalene 91-20-3
16 Phenanthrene 85-01-8
17 Pyrene 129-00-0
18 Benzo(g,h,i)perylene 191-24-2

4.21 CHEMICAL GROUP 18 : POLYMERS & POLYMER AUXILIARIES


MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD
1. Polystyrene: ISO 3175-1
2. PVC (Polyvinyl chloride): Beilstein test as pre-test, confirmation of pre-fail with Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR)
All 3. Technical MDA: Extraction with ethyl acetate, analysis by GC-MS or LC-MS
4. BPA (Bisphenol A): Solvent extraction followed by LC-MS/MS
5. Latex (Natural Rubber): Test kit Protn-LatexTM from G-Biosciences or comparable test kit for Latex
C&A LIMIT Detection Limit
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
1 Polystyrene 9003-53-6 for all dry cleanable items Usage ban
2 Polyvinyl chloride PVC 9002-86-2 Forbidden for all articles
Formaldehyde, oligomeric reaction products with
3
aniline (technical MDA)
25214-70-4 20 20
Usage ban
4 Bisphenol A BPA 80-05-7 for all food contact products 0.1
<0.1
5 Natural Rubber Latex NRL 9006-04-6 Usage ban

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4.22 CHEMICAL GROUP 19: SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC)


MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD
No. 1 to No. 33: Headspace at 120 C, 45 min, GC-MS analysis
All
No. 34 DMFa (N,N-Dimethyl formamide): Extraction with methanol followed by GC-MS, reference to ISO/TS 16189
C&A LIMIT Detection Limit
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
1 Benzene 71-43-2 <1 1
2 Ethylbenzene 100-41-4 <20 10
3 Styrene 100-42-5 <10 10
4 Toluene 108-88-3 <5 5
5 Xylene 1330-20-7 <20 10
6 Orthoxylene 95-47-6 <20 10
7 Metaxylene 108-38-3 <20 10
8 Paraxylene 106-42-3 <20 10
9 o-Cresol 95-48-7 <20 10
10 p-Cresol 106-44-5 <20 10
11 m-Cresol 108-39-4 <20 10
12 Trichloroethylene 79-01-6 <40 10
13 Tetrachloroethylene 127-18-4 <5 1
14 Cyclohexanone 108-94-1 <100 20
15 Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone MEK 78-93-3 <100 10
16 Naphthalene 91-20-3 <10 10
17 Acetophenone 98-86-2 <20 10
18 2-Phenyl-2-propanole 617-94-7 <20 10
19 2-Ethoxyethanol 110-80-5 <50 10
20 2-Ethoxyethyl acetate 111-15-9 <50 10
21 1,2-Dimethoxyethane DME 110-71-4 <50 10
22 2-Methoxyethanol 109-86-4 <50 10
23 2-Methoxyethyl acetate 110-49-6 <50 10
24 2-Methoxypropyl acetate 70657-70-4 <50 10
25 Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether TEGDME 112-49-2 <50 10
26 Methylene chloride 75-09-2 <5 1
27 2-Ethoxyethyl acetate 111-15-9
28 1-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone 872-50-4
29 1,2,3-Trichloropropane 96-18-4
30 1,2-Dichloroethane 107-06-2 <1000 100
31 Bis-(2-methoxyethyl) ether 111-96-6
32 N,N-dimethyl acetamide DMAC 127-19-5
33 Formamide 75-12-7
34 N,N-Dimethyl formamide DMFa 68-12-2 <300 10

Continued on
next page
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4.22 CHEMICAL GROUP 19: SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC) continued
cont.

Water based PU Material:


Water based Polyurethane (PU) is waterborne & Dimethylformamide (DMFa) solvent-free PU = sustainable PU leather
C&A recommends to our suppliers to used water based polyurethane dispersions (PUDs), which show all the properties of regular PU leather but that eliminates the use of organic solvents (DMFa) and processes that consume considerable amounts of
water and energy from the manufacturing process.

Elimination of the hazardous chemical DMFa:


Conventional PU leather is processed in DMFa , a solvent which is classified as a substance of very high concern (Restricted in table 4.22 Chemical No. 34), whereas water based produced PU requires no organic solvents like DMFa for manufacture or
processing, eliminating potential worker and consumer exposure.

Reduction of the water consumption (less water):


The conventional PU leather production process consumes large quantities of water to rinse away the solvent from the synthetic material, whereas the water based PU dispersion technology does not require the use of water baths for the processing.

Energy consumption:
The conventional PU leather process employs washing baths that are constantly heated to facilitate the process. The wet product must be dried completely. Finally, DMFa is reclaimed from contaminated water in a an energy intensive process. In contrast,
water based PU production does not need washing baths, follow up drying of wet synthetic leather and final reclaiming of the DMFa, which saves a lot of energy.

4.23 CHEMICAL GROUP 20: N-NITROSAMINE & N-NITROSAMINE CONVERTIBLE SUBSTANCES


MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD
a) for silencer e.g. teethers and baby soother made from elastomer/rubber: EN 12868, solvent extraction followed by GC-TEA or GC-MS or LC-MS/MS,
All b) for toys made of elastomer/rubber materials e.g. balloons: EN 71-12
C&A LIMIT Detection Limit
No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No.
[mg/kg] [mg/kg]
1 N-nitrosodimethylamine 62-75-9
2 N-nitrosodiethylamine 55-18-5
3 N-nitrosodipropylamine 621-64-7 for a) silencer
4 N-nitrosodibutylamine 924-16-3 (e.g. teethers) and baby - soother from elastomer or
5 N-nitrosomorpholine 59-89-2 rubber,
<0.01 0.01
6 N-nitrosopiperidine 100-75-4 for b) toys from rubber
7 N-nitrosopyrrolidine 930-55-2 (e.g. balloons) for children
8 N-nitrosodibenzylamine 5336-53-8 < 36 months, which are intended to be put into the
9 N-nitroso-methyl-N-phenylamine 614-00-6 mouth
10 N-nitroso-ethyl-N-phenylamine 612-64-6
11 N-Nitrosamine convertible substances various <0.1 0.1

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5 The C&A Guide to chemical use


and reasons for restriction

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5.1 5.3
CHEMICAL ALKYLPHENOLS (AP) / ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES CHEMICAL
DISPERSE DYES (Which are classified to be allergenic)
GROUP 1 (APEO) GROUP 3
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) belong to a group of non-ionic surfactants including
NPEOs and OPEOs, which are widely used as auxiliary chemicals in different industries. Disperse dyes are generally water-insoluble colorants that are mainly used for coloring
They can be found in Detergents, scouring agents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, softeners, polyester, nylon and cellulose acetate textile fibers. They have extremely high light
dispersing agents for dyestuffs, impregnating agents, degreasing agents for leather, fastness for very pale colors.
finishing agents, etc.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

If NPEOs and OPEOs are released to the environment, they can be degraded back to NPs
Some disperse dyes have an allergenic (sensitizing) potential to human skin and can be
and OPs, which are toxic to aquatic life, persistent in the environment and can bio-
considered as a possible threat to health, especially if the dyes exhibit poor perspiration
accumulated in body tissue. They are similar to natural estrogen hormones and can
fastness.
disrupt sexual development in some organisms e.g. causing feminization of fish.

5.2 5.4
CHEMICAL AZO Dyes (which by reductive cleavage release one or more CHEMICAL
DYES (Which are classified to be carcinogenic)
GROUP 2 aromatic amines listed below) GROUP 4
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Azo dyes are dyes which contain at least one azo bond (-N=N-) within the molecule. In
textiles and apparels, azo dyes are commonly used as colorant. Used as textile dyestuffs, see also Chemical Group 2 and 3

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Although the discussions of genotoxic substances in textiles in recent years have focused
Certain azo dyes can break down during use and release harmful aromatic amines. The on azo dyes splitting off carcinogenic amines, the classification of carcinogenic dyes
listed aromatic amines are classified as carcinogens. should not be limited to those azo dyes. These textile dyes classified by their nature may
also give rise to mutagenic effects.

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5.5 5.6
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL
BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS
GROUP 5 GROUP 6
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Biocides are compounds used to kill or harm living organisms. Chlorinated Organic Carriers are used in batch dyeing of synthetic fibers, particularly
polyester fibers, to promote the absorption and diffusion of disperse dyes into the fiber at
Triclosan can be used as disinfectant and as an antibacterial agent in textiles.
relative low temperatures. These carriers are also important for dyeing blended fibers of
Dimethylfumarate is a fungicide applied to prevent mildew/mould.
wool and polyester as wool cannot withstand dyeing at high temperatures. Nevertheless,
Pentachlorophenol and its substitutes, like tetra- and trichlorophenols, are used as
the carriers will remain on the textile material or partially evaporate during subsequent
fungicides, insecticides, mollusicidse, algicides, disinfectants, and as anti-fouling paint
processes.
ingredients, bactericides in the tanning and paper pulp industries. In fact, PCP is one
of the most widely used biocides in the wood, textile, leather and paper industries. TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
o-Phenylphenol can be used for its preservative properties in leather or as a carrier in
dyeing processes.
Most of these carriers are toxic to humans and aquatic organisms, and some are even
TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
carcinogenic.
Biocides are biologically active substances, and their toxic and biocidal nature enables
them to kill or harm living things. Since biocides by nature are used to have detrimental
effects on biological organisms, they are at the same time a serious threat to living
organisms that were not intended to be controlled. Biocides have adverse effects on the
nervous system when entering into the human body. They may irritate eyes, skin, and the 5.7
CHEMICAL
respiratory system. CHLORINATED PARAFFINS
GROUP 7
Tricosan can damage the liver, kidneys, heart and lungs, suppresses the immune
system. INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Chlorinated paraffin products are polychlorinated alkanes and they are divided into three
DMFu is a contact allergen and is able to cause allergenic reactions, even in the
categories depending on the length of the carbon chain, short (C10-C13), medium (C14-
smallest concentrations, like fierce eczemas or burn injuries.
C17), and long (C20-C30). Short chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCP) are used primarily as
PCP is toxic when inhaled, ingested, or absorbed through the skin. Long term an extreme pressure lubricant additive in metal working fluids. Other uses are as a flame
exposure results in reproductive effects, liver and kidney damage, and cancer. retardant for plastics. They are also used as a plasticizer in rubber, paints, and adhesives.
o-Phenylphenol can cause in contact with eye severe irritation and burns with possible Further uses are as a degreasing agent in the leather production.
eye damage. For some individuals, o-phenylphenol can also irritate the skin. TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

There are potential environmental risks associated with the life cycle of chlorinated
paraffin. SCCPs are classified as dangerous to the environment, being very toxic to
aquatic organisms, and may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.

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5.8 5.10
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE, SOLUBLE &
FLAME RETARDANTS
GROUP 8 GROUP 10 RELEASABLE
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
Heavy metals are found in dyestuffs and used as dye-fixing agents. They also occur in
natural fibers like cotton.
Brominated flame retardants are used in a wide range of products like automobiles,
electronics and textiles because of their stability and heat resistance. Cadmium is a naturally occurring and abundant metal. In textiles and apparels,
cadmium is usually used in plastics, dyes (usually red, orange, yellow and green) and
metal accessories. Cadmium is also a well-known stabilizer for the manufacturing of
polymers like PVC and PU. As cadmium is relatively hard to oxidize, it is often used as a
TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
coating agent.
Chromium VI is rarely found in nature, but in the chemistry world, it is a fairly good
PBBs and PBBEs/PBDEs are as toxic as PCBs and DDT. These compounds are
oxidizing agent. In textiles and apparels, chromium VI is usually associated with
suspected to be carcinogenic, and their stability also makes them dangerous to wildlife.
plastics, dyes and tanned leather.
They persist once they enter the environment and food chain, and are likely to pass up
Cobalt dichloride is used as a humidity indicator in silica gel.
the food chain.
Lead is a metal which can be found naturally in some ores. In textiles and apparels,
lead is associated with plastics, paints, dyes and metal accessories.
Nickel is a naturally occurring metal. In textiles and apparels, nickel is usually
associated with paints, inks, trims, plastics and metal accessories.
5.9
CHEMICAL TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
FORMALDEHYDE Many heavy metals are bio-accumulative when absorbed by human body through
GROUP 9
perspiration and give cause for concern in health terms such as chronic toxicity, allergenic
INDUSTRIAL USAGE reactions and cancers.

Formaldehyde is a volatile organic compound whose chemical properties make it suitable Cadmium and its derivatives are often suspected to be carcinogens.
to be used as an anti-creasing and anti-shrinking agent. It can even blend with phenol and Chromium VI is a known carcinogen and corrosive to skin. Skin contact with certain
urea to form polymeric resins. In textiles and apparels, formaldehyde may be found in chromium VI compounds can cause skin ulcers.
stiffened and permanent pressed fabric. Cobalt dichloride is a known carcinogen and can also result in reproductive
impairments. Furthermore cobalt dichloride is classified as dangerous to the
environment, being very toxic to aquatic organisms, and may cause long-term adverse
TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
effects in the aquatic environment
Lead and its derivatives are suspected carcinogens and lead itself can adversely
affect the human central nervous system, kidney and immune system.
Despite its multi-function properties, formaldehyde is a highly toxic chemical which can
Nickel and its derivatives are suspected carcinogens and can cause allergic reactions.
induce irritation to mucous membrane and even cause cancer.

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5.11 5.13
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL
HEAVY METALS - TOTAL CONTENT ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS
GROUP 11 GROUP 13
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE

see HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE & RELEASABLE Chemical Group 10 The major commercial applications of organotin compounds are as plastic stabilizers,
catalytic agents, industrial biocides, antifouling paints, glass coatings, and pesticides.

see HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE & RELEASABLE Chemical Group 10 TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Organotin compounds are environmental pollutants and particularly harmful to aquatic


see HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE & RELEASABLE Chemical Group 10 environments. They can damage liver, kidneys, blood forming process and can cause
disruption of the enzyme system.

5.12 5.14
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL
ISOCYANATES pH VALUE
GROUP 12 GROUP 14
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Isocyanates are the raw materials that make up all polyurethane products. They react
with compounds containing alcohol (hydroxyl) groups to produce polyurethane The pH values in garments can be greatly affected by scouring, bleaching, after-
polymers, which are components of polyurethane foams, thermoplastic elastomers, treatment and final washing process involving the use of strong acids or alkalis.
spandex fibers, and polyurethane paints.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Human skins are slightly acidic in nature to inhibit bacteria growth. The pH value is a
The reactivity of isocyanates makes them harmful to living tissue. They are toxic and are measure of the acidity or basicity of a solution. Solutions with a pH less than 7 are said to
known to cause asthma in humans, both through inhalation exposure and dermal contact. be acidic and solutions with a pH greater than 7 are basic or alkaline. Textiles with a too
high or low pH may cause irritation to skin when in contact.

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5.15 5.17
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL
PHTHALATES POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAH)
GROUP 15 GROUP 17
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE
PAHs are produced by the incomplete combustion of organic materials such as wood, oil
Phthalates have diverse uses in modern commerce. One of their primary uses is as a
and animal fats. PAHs are less water-soluble, evaporable and degradable and attach
plasticizer in flexible polyvinyl chloride (PVC) products such as blood bags and children's
themselves to organic particulate matter. PAH contaminations have been found not only
toys, etc. They are also used as fixatives, detergents, lubricating oils, and solvents. As a
in rubber but also in various plastics.
result of these diverse uses, phthalates are found in many consumer products, such as
textiles, footwear, cosmetics. TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
The assumption that PAHs in consumer products can be considered a possible source of
see HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE & RELEASABLE Chemical Group 10 risk is suggested by the fact that, for a number of these substances, carcinogenicity and
mutagenicity as well as toxicity to reproduction (so-called CMR properties) have been
Phthalates can alter the estrogen level in human and animal hormonal systems, resulting demonstrated in experiments
in serious health problems such as cancers and reproductive and developmental
impairments. 5.18
CHEMICAL
POLYMERS & POLYMER AUXILIARIES
GROUP 18
5.16
CHEMICAL INDUSTRIAL USAGE
PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS
GROUP 16 Polystyrene: Buttons, beads, sequins, and other decorations made of polystyrene are
commonly found to melt on exposure to dry-cleaning solvent.
INDUSTRIAL USAGE
PVC has been found to be useful in many applications including packaging, furniture,
PFOS (Perfluorooctane sulfonates) related substances have been used to provide soil, oil
household appliances, electric/electronic appliances, automotive and many others. In
and water resistance to textiles, apparels, leather, footwear, home furnishings and
order to provide the range of properties needed in finished products, PVC polymer is
upholstery, and automotive interiors. In textile processing, PFOS substances are also
mixed with a number of additives such as fillers, stabilizers, lubricants, plasticizers,
used as wetting agents to improve the coverage and penetration of substances, achieve
pigments, and flame retardants.
finish-on-yarn uniformity, and enhance dyeing and as a binder in non-woven fabrics.
PFOS have a potential for long range environmental transport and are classified as Technical MDA is mainly used as precursor to methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) for
persistent organic pollutants (POPs) under the Stockholm Convention, with poorly PU production and as hardener for epoxy resins.
understood but significant health risks to wildlife and people.
Bisphenol A (BPA) is used in the production of epoxy resins and plastics.
TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
When PVC is heated or disposed of, there is a potential risk of emitting a number of
PFOS have a potential for long range environmental transport and are classified as degradable compounds, such as highly toxic dioxins and hydrogen chloride. The German
persistent organic pollutants (POPs) under the Stockholm Convention, with poorly Federal Ministry of the Environment (Germany) which recommends a phase-out of
understood but significant health risks to wildlife and people. flexible PVC for those applications where safer alternatives are available.
Technical MDA is classified as carcinogenic Cat.1B

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5.19 5.20
CHEMICAL CHEMICAL N-NITROSAMINE & N-NITROSAMINE CONVERTIBLE
SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC)
GROUP 19 GROUP 20 SUBSTANCES
INDUSTRIAL USAGE INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Organic solvents are widely used in industry and in our daily lifes. They can be found in
adhesives, paints and sprays, and are used in dry-cleaning and printing processes.
Nitrosamines are used in the manufacture of some cosmetics, pesticides, and in rubber
N,N-Dimethylformamide (DMFa) is a common solvent for chemical reactions. Dimethyl products.
formamide is used in the production of acrylic fibers, polyurethane and plastics.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND


Benzene is classified as being carcinogenic and toxic and can cause reproductive
defects.
Ethylbenzene, Styrene, Xylene and Cyclohexanone are classified as being harmful. Many Nitrosamines are carcinogenic.

Toluene is classified as being harmful and is under suspicion to cause reproductive


defects.
Trichlorethylene is classified as being toxic, carcinogenic and toxic to aquatic organisms.
It may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.
Tetrachlorethylene is under suspicion to cause cancer. It is classified as being toxic to
aquatic organisms. It may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.
Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone is classified as irritant.
N,N-Dimethylformamide (DMFa) has been linked to cancer in humans, and it is under
suspicion to cause birth defects.
Naphthalene is classified as being harmful and it can cause cancer. It may cause long-
term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.

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6 Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL)


C&A is one of the founding members of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous updated frequently. To check your adherence to the latest version of the MRSL visit
Chemicals (ZDHC) brand collaboration. In the ZDHC Joint Roadmap, ZDHC brands http://www.roadmaptozero.com/programme/
committed to define and develop a Manufacturing Restricted Substances List
(MRSL) for the apparel and footwear industry. The ZDHC MRSL, which has been
adopted by C&A, has defined usage bans and a common set of limits for chemical More information on C&As work in the area of chemicals management can be
formulations used in apparel and footwear production. found in the most recent Corporate Responsibility (CR) report or on-line at
http://materialimpacts.c-and-a.com/.
The purpose of the ZDHC MRSL is to provide the industry with a harmonized
approach to managing hazardous chemicals used during the processing of raw
materials. The requirement is to prevent these listed hazardous substances, which If you have questions concerning the ZDHC MRSL and its implementation please e-
maybe of a concern to occupational safety and the environment, from being mail ssc-scm.sourcing@canda.com
intentionally used during manufacturing and related processes. The ZDHC MRSL
goes beyond the requirements of the C&A RSL which only limits those substances
that are not to be present in finished products.

The ZDHC MRSL should be communicated widely across the supply chain Note:
including raw material suppliers, all sub-contractors and factories assembling or The ZDHC MRSL does not replace our C&A Restricted Substances List (RSL).
manufacturing garments and footwear for C&A. C&A expect that suppliers and Chemical formulations also must fully comply with all C&A RSL requirements and all
factories work in partnership with their chemical suppliers to ensure that listed applicable legal restrictions, including any subsequent restrictions that establish
substances are not presented in chemical formulations above set limits. C&A more strict limits.
suppliers and factories are expected to, at a minimum, obtain self-declarations from
chemical suppliers stating clear conformance to the ZDHC MRSL.

C&A will require factories with wet-processing, specifically those involved with
dyeing, finishing, printing and washing, to conduct, on request, wastewater
sampling to screen for hazardous substances listed on the MRSL and a sustainable
chemical management audit including an in-depth review of the chemical inventory.
The testing parameters, test methods and detection limits for waste water testing
are set out in Chapter 10.1. If you are found to contravene any element of this MRSL
policy or your on-site chemical management performance is not meeting C&A
standards then a short-term corrective action plan will be put into place with
approval from the factories top management and C&A stating necessary
remediation actions and timelines.
At the time of writing, the current version of the ZDHC MRSL is Version 1.1, as
attached in Appendix 12.2. The ZDHC MRSL is a living document and will be

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6.1 The testing parameters, test methods and detection limits for waste watertable

Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
1. AP & APEO Octylphenol OP Various 1
Nonylphenol NP Various 1
Octylphenol Ethoxylates OP1EO Various 5 With Reference to DIN EN ISO 18857 and followed by GC/MS or LC/MS
Nonylphenol Ethoxylates OPEO (2-16) Various 5 analysis

Nonylphenol Ethoxylates NP1EO Various 5


Nonylphenol Ethoxylates NPEO (2-18) Various 5
2. Phthalates Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) 85-68-7 1
(ortho-phthalates)
Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) 84-74-2 1
Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) 117-81-7 1
Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP) 117-84-0 1
Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP) 28553-12-0 1
Di-iso-decyl phthalate (DIDP) 26761-40-0 1
Dimethyl phthalate (DMP) 131-11-3 1
Diethyl phthalate (DEP) 84-66-2 1
Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPRP) 131-16-8 1
Solvent extraction with GC/MS analysis or LC/MS analysis
Di-iso-butyl phthalate (DIBP) 84-69-5 1
Di-cyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP) 84-61-7 1
Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP) 84-75-3 1
Dinonyl phthalate (DNP) 84-76-4 1
Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP) 27554-26-3 1
Dimethoxyethyl phthalate (DMEP) 117-82-8 1
Di-(C7-C11 alkyl) phthalate linear and
68515-42-4 1
branched (DHNUP)
Di-iso-heptyl Phthalate (DIHpP) 71888-89-6 1
Di-penty Phthalate (n-, iso-, or mixed), 605-50-5 / 776297-69-9 / 131-18-0
1
(DPP) /84777-06-0

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Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
3. Flame Retardants Polybromobiphenyls (PBBs) 59536-65-1 0.05
Monobromobiphenyl (MonoBB) - 0.05
Dibromobiphenyl (DiBB) - 0.05
Tribromobiphenyl (TriBB) - 0.05
Tetrabromobiphenyl (TetraBB) - 0.05
Pentabromobiphenyl (PentaBB) - 0.05
Hexabromobiphenyl (HexaBB) - 0.05
Heptabromobiphenyl (HeptaBB) - 0.05
Octabromobiphenyl (OctaBB) - 0.05
Nonabromobiphenyl (NonaBB) - 0.05
Decabromobipheny (DecaBB) 13654-09-6 0.05
Polybromodiphenyl ethers (PBDEs) Various 0.05
Monobromodiphenyl ethers (MonoBDE) - 0.05
Dibromodiphenyl ethers (DiBDE) - 0.05
Tribromodiphenyl ethers (TriBDE) - 0.05
Tetrabromodiphenyl ethers (TetraBDE) 40088-47-9 0.05
Solvent extraction with GC/MS or LC/MS analysis
Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) 32534-81-9 0.05
Hexabromodiphenyl ethers (HexaBDE) 36483-60-0 0.05
Heptabromodiphenyl ethers (HeptaBDE) 68928-80-3 0.05
Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) 32536-52-0 0.05
Nonabromodiphenyl ethers (NonaBDE) 63936-56-1 0.05
Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) 1163-19-5 0.05
Tris(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate
126-72-7 0.5
(TRIS/TDBPP)
Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) 79-94-7 0.5
Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate
5412-25-9 0.5
(BIS/BDBPP)
Hexabromocyclododecane (HBCDD) 3194-55-6 0.5
2,2-Bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol
3296-90-0 0.5
(BBMP)
Tris(aziridinyl)-phosphineoxide (TEPA) 545-55-1 0.5
Bis(2,3-dibromopropylether) of
21850-44-2 0.5
Tetrabromobisphenol (BDBPT)
Tris(2-chloroethyl) phosphate (TCEP) 115-96-8 0.5
Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate
13674-87-8 0.5
(TDCP)

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Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
4. Azo Dyes 4-Aminodiphenyl 92-67-1 0.5
Benzidine 92-87-5 0.5
4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2 0.5
2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8 0.5
o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3 0.5
5-nitro-o-toluidine 99-55-8 0.5
4-Chloroaniline 106-47-8 0.5
4-Methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 615-05-4 0.5
4,4`-Diaminodiphenylmethane 101-77-9 0.5
3,3`-Dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1 0.5
3,3`-Dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4 0.5
3,3`-Dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7 0.5
With reference to EN 14362-1 & 3 and
4,4`-Methylenedi-o-toluidine 838-88-0 0.5
followed by GC/MS and HPLC Analysis.
p-Cresidine 120-71-8 0.5
4,4`-Methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) 101-14-4 0.5
4,4`-Oxydianiline 101-80-4 0.5
4,4`-Thiodianiline 139-65-1 0.5
o-Toluidine 95-53-4 0.5
4-Methyl-m-phenylenediamine 95-80-7 0.5
2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7 0.5
o-Anisidine 90-04-0 0.5
4-Aminoazobenzene 60-09-3 0.5
2,4-Xylidine 95-68-1 0.5
2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7 0.5
Aniline 62-53-3 0.5
5. Organotin Compounds Monobutyltin (MBT) Various 0.01
Dibutyltin (DBT) Various 0.01
Dioctyltin (DOT) Various 0.01
Tributyltin (TBT) Various 0.01
Triphenyltin (TPhT) Various 0.01
Tricyclohexyltin (TCyT) Various 0.01 With reference to DIN EN17353 and followed by GC/MS analysis.
Trioctyltin (TOT) Various 0.01
Tripropyltin (TPT) Various 0.01
Monooctyltin (MOT) Various 0.01
Diphenyltin (DPhT) Various 0.01
Tetrabutyltin (TeBT) 1461-25-2 0.01

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Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
6. PFCs Perfluoro-n-octanoic acid (PFOA) 335-67-1/ 335-95-5 0.01
Perfluorobutanesulfonic acid (PFBS) 375-73-5 0.01
Perfluorooctanesulfonic acid (PFOS) 1763-23-1 0.01
LC/MS analysis
Perfluorohexanesulfonic acid (PFHxS) 355-46-4 0.01
Perfluoro-n-hexanoic acid (PFHxA) 307-24-4 0.01
Perfluorobutyric Acid (PFBA) 375-22-4 0.01
7. Chlorobenzenes Chlorobenzene 108-90-7 0.5
Dichlorobenzenes Various 0.5
1,2-Dichlorobenzene 95-50-1 0.5
1,3-Dichlorobenzene 541-73-1 0.5
1,4-Dichlorobenzene 106-46-7 0.5
Trichlorobenzenes Various 0.5
1,2,3-Trichlorobenzene 87-61-6 0.5
1,2,4-Trichlorobenzene 120-82-1 0.5 Solvent extraction with GC/MS analysis
1,3,5-Trichlorobenzene 108-70-3 0.5
Tetrachlorobenzenes Various 0.5
1,2,3,4-Tetrachlorobenzene 634-66-2 0.5
1,2,3,5-Tetrachlorobenzene 634-90-2 0.5
1,2,4,5-Tetrachlorobenzene 95-94-3 0.5
Pentachlorobenzene 608-93-5 0.5
Hexachlorobenzene 118-74-1 0.5
8. Chlorinated Solvents 1,2-Dichloroethane 107-06-2 1
1,1-Dichloroethylene 75-35-4 1
Methylene Chloride 75-09-2 1
cis-1,2-Dichloroethylene 156-59-2 1
trans-1,2-Dichloroethylene 156-60-5 1
Chloroform 67-66-3 1
1,1,1-Trichloroethane 71-55-6 1 Headspace
Carbon Tetrachloride 56-23-5 1 GC-MS analysis.

Trichloroethylene 79-01-6 1
1,1,2-Trichloroethane 79-00-5 1
1,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane 630-20-6 1
Tetrachloroethylene 127-18-4 1
1,1-Dichloroethane 75-34-3 1
1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane 79-34-5 1

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Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb) Name of the method
9. Chlorophenols Pentachlorophenol (PCP) 87-86-5 0.5
Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) Various 0.5
2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol 4901-51-3 0.5
2,3,4,6-Tetrachlorophenol 58-90-2 0.5
2,3,5,6-Tetrachlorophenol 935-95-5 0.5
Trichlorophenol (TriCP) Various 0.5
2,4,6-Trichlorophenol 88-06-2 0.5
2,3,5-Trichlorophenol 933-78-8 0.5
2,4,5-Trichlorophenol 95-95-4 0.5
3,4,5-Trichlorophenol 609-19-8 0.5
2,3,4-Trichlorophenol 15950-66-0 0.5
Solvent extraction and
2,3,6-Trichlorophenol 933-75-5 0.5
derivatisation with acetic anhydride followed by GC/MS analysis.
Dichlorophenol (DiCP) Various 0.5
2,3-Dichlorophenol 576-24-9 0.5
3,4-Dichlorophenol 95-77-2 0.5
2,4-Dichlorophenol 120-83-2 0.5
2,5-Dichlorophenol 583-78-8 0.5
2,6-Dichlorophenol 87-65-0 0.5
3,5-Dichlorophenol 591-35-5 0.5
Mono Chlorophenol (MonoCP) Various 0.5
2-Chlorophenol 95-57-8 0.5
3-Chlorophenol 108-43-0 0.5
4-Chlorophenol 106-48-9 0.5
10. Short Chained
Short chain chlorinated paraffins
Chlorinated Paraffins 85535-84-8 5 Solvent extraction with GC/MS analysis
(SCCPs)
(SCCPs)
11. Heavy Metals Cadmium(Cd) 7440-43-9 0.1
Lead(Pb) 7439-92-1 1
Mercury(Hg) 7439-97-6 0.05
Cobalt(Co) 7440-48-4 1
Nickel(Ni) 7440-02-0 1
Acid Digestion with
Antonmy(Sb) 7440-36-0 1
ICP analysis
Arsenic(As) 7440-38-2 1
Copper(Cu) 7440-50-8 1
Zinc(Zn) 7440-66-6 1
Chromium(Cr) 7440-47-3 1
Manganese(Mn) 7439-96-5 1
Chromium VI(CrVI) 18540-29-9 1 Solvent extraction and derivatisation followed by UV analysis
12. Cyanide (CN-) With reference to APHA 4500 CNB,C&E and followed by UV
Cyanide(CN-) Various 20
analysis

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7 Appendix

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7.1 Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) Version 1.1 (2015) of the Zero Discharge of
Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Programme
On the following pages you will find the Manufacturing Restricted Substance
List (MRSL) Version 1.1 from 2015 from the ZDHC (Zero Discharge of
Hazardous Chemicals Programme).

This MRSL & Conformance Guidance comprises the same content as the
MRSL & Conformance Guidance available under
http://www.roadmaptozero.com/programme/.

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substances are not present in chemical formulations above established


limits.
Manufacturing Restricted Substances List Version 1.1 Note: The ZDHC MRSL does not replace applicable national environmental
Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Programme or workplace safety restrictions. Worker exposure to chemical substances
listed in this document, along with other hazardous substances, must not
1 Background exceed occupational exposure limits. Chemical formulations also must
comply with all applicable legal restrictions, including any subsequent
In the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Joint Roadmap,
restrictions that establish more strict limits. The ZDHC MRSL does not
Version 2, ZDHC brands committed to define and develop a Manufacturing
replace legal or brand-specific restrictions on hazardous substances in
Restricted Substances List (MRSL) for the apparel and footwear industry. In
finished products.
doing so, brands recognised the value of addressing hazardous substances
potentially used and discharged into the environment during manufacturing
and related processes deep within our supply chain not just those 3 Definitions
substances that could be present in finished products. In June 2014, the MRSL
ZDHC brands achieved a significant milestone and published the first version
The ZDHC MRSL is a list of chemical substances subject to a usage ban (see
of the ZDHC MRSL.
Usage Ban, page 2). The MRSL applies to chemicals used in facilities that
process materials and trim parts for use in apparel and footwear. Chemicals
2 Purpose in the ZDHC MRSL include solvents, cleaners, adhesives, paints, inks,
The intent of the ZDHC MRSL is to provide brands and suppliers with a detergents, dyes, colourants, auxiliaries, coatings and finishing agents used
harmonised approach to managing chemicals during the processing of raw during raw material production, wet-processing, maintenance, wastewater
materials within the apparel and footwear supply chain. The ZDHC MRSL treatment, sanitation and pest control. There should be no intentional use of
achieves this by providing a clear list of priority chemicals and specifying the MRSL-listed substances in facilities that process materials used in the
maximum concentration limit of each substance within commercial chemical production of apparel and footwear. MRSL limits apply to substances in
formulations. commercially available chemical formulations and not those from earlier
stages of chemical synthesis.
The ZDHC MRSL is divided into sections that focus on a specific raw
material. This accounts for the differences between the creation and Note: Threshold Limit values on restricted substances in chemical
processing of the material types used within our industry and the need to set formulations are in some cases substantially higher than limits on restricted
applicable limits to reflect the functional use of these chemicals. The MRSL substances in finished products. This is because restricted substances in
should be communicated to raw material suppliers, including sub- finished products are almost always found in smaller concentrations than in
contractors and factories assembling or manufacturing garments and the chemical formulations used to produce them. Chemical formulations are
footwear. To support our goal of using MRSL compliant chemical highly concentrated before being diluted upon application to textiles and
formulations, ZDHC brands also expect that material suppliers and factories other materials.
will communicate with their chemical suppliers to ensure that listed

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Chemical Substance technical experts allows the ZDHC Programme to develop a MRSL that
A chemical substance is a chemical element and its compounds in the pragmatically represents progress and supports our long-term goal of zero
natural state or obtained by any manufacturing process (REACH, 2014)(1) . discharge.
A chemical substance is usually identifiable by a single, unique Chemical
Abstracts Service (CAS) number or Colour Index (CI) number. The ZDHC 5 MRSL Instructions
MRSL will primarily focus on chemical substances listed by CAS number and MRSL Chapters
CI number, but also will include groups of substances for which listing
individual substances is not practical. Chapter 1: MRSL for Textiles and Synthetic Leather Processing

Commercial Chemical Formulation This section applies to chemical formulations and substances used during the
creation and wet processing of textile fibres and during the creation and processing
A commercial chemical formulation is usually a proprietary blend of several of synthetic leather.
chemical substances that is available for purchase from chemical suppliers
under their own trade name. Chapter 2: MRSL for Natural leather Processing
This section applies to chemical formulations and substances used
Usage Ban
throughout the production of natural leather, from raw-hide to finished
A usage ban indicates that the ZDHC MRSL-listed chemical substance or leather.
group of substances may not be used to achieve a desired function or effect
during production of the raw material or product (that is, no intentional use).
This usage ban extends to other uses within a facility like cleaning and
maintenance. Due to the existence of manufacturing impurities in chemical
formulations, a minor or trace amount of the restricted substance is
permitted. Chemical formulations containing restricted substances that
exceed limits are not compliant with the ZDHC MRSL.

4 MRSL Creation Process


The ZDHC MRSL includes relevant substances from the original 11 priority
chemical groups in the Joint Roadmap (2) along with additional substances
discussed with qualified experts from the ZDHC Technical Advisory
Committee (TAC) and signatory brands. Several of the listed substances are _____________________________________________________________
regulated in finished products and have been successfully restricted by (1) A chemical element and its compounds in the natural state or obtained by any manufacturing process, including
ZDHC brands for years. Though already restricted by ZDHC brands, their any additive necessary to preserve its stability and any impurity deriving from the process used, but excluding any
inclusion on the list keep it consistent with existing industry standards. solvent which may be separated without affecting the stability of the substance or changing its composition.
http://www.reachonline.eu/REACH/EN/REACH_EN/article3.html. Accessed May 8, 2014.
Where possible, the content of the ZDHC MRSL was peer-reviewed by (2) These are alkylphenol ethoxylates/alkylphenols (APEOs/APEs), brominated and chlorinated flame retardants,
independent third-party technical experts and industry associations related chlorinated solvents, chlorobenzenes, chlorophenols, heavy metals, organotin compounds (e.g., TBT),
to the production of our key raw materials. Collaboration with leading perfluorinated and polyfluorinated chemicals (PFCs), phthalates (ortho-phthalates), short-chain chlorinated
paraffins (SCCPs) and azo dyes that may release carcinogenic amines as defined in Annex XVII of REACH.

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MRSL Groups
Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product Supplier Guidance
Group A substances are banned from intentional use in facilities that process
raw materials and manufacture finished products. Please refer to the AFIRM
guidance document for the lowest agreed upon material or finished product
limits among AFIRM brands: http://afirm-group.com/afirm-rsl/. See brand
RSLs for individual requirements.

Group B: Chemical Supplier Formulation Limit


Group B substances are restricted to concentration limits in chemical
formulations commercially available from chemical suppliers. These limits
ban intentional use while allowing for reasonable expected manufacturing
impurities that should be consistently achievable by responsible chemical
manufacturers(3).

____________________________________________________________
(3) Safety Data Sheets (SDS) only list substances present at concentrations of 1000 ppm or greater. Suppliers
must communicate with chemical suppliers to ensure MRSL limits are met.

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CHAPTER 1: MRSL for Textiles and Synthetic Leather Processing


Group A: Raw Material
Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance and Finished Product
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Supplier Guidance
Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs): including all isomers
104-40-5
11066-49-2
Nonylphenol (NP), mixed isomers 250 ppm
25154-52-3
84852-15-3
APEOs can be used as or found in:
140-66-9
detergents, scouring agents, spinning oils,
1806-26-4 Octylphenol (OP), mixed isomers 250 ppm
wetting agents, softeners, Liquid chromatography-mass
27193-28-8
emulsifier/dispersing agents for dyes and spectrometry (LC-MS), gas
9002-93-1 No intentional use
prints, impregnating agents, de-gumming for chromatography-mass
9036-19-5 Octylphenol ethoxylates (OPEO) 500 ppm
silk production, dyes and pigment spectrometry (GC-MS)
68987-90-6
preparations, polyester padding and
9016-45-9
down/feather fillings.
26027-38-3
37205-87-1 Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEO) 500 ppm
68412-54-4
127087-87-0
Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes
95-50-1 1,2-dichlorobenzene 1000 ppm Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes
Other isomers of mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexa- chlorobenzene and (chlorinated aromatic hydrocarbons) can be
mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and penta- chlorotoluene No intentional use used as carriers in the dyeing process of GC-MS
Sum = 200 ppm
polyester or wool/polyester fibres. They can
also be used as solvents.

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Chlorophenols
25167-83-3 Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) Sum = 20 ppm
87-86-5 Pentachlorophenol (PCP)
4901-51-3 2,3,4,5-tetrachlorophenol
58-90-2 2,3,4,6-tetrachlorophenol
935-95-5 2,3,5,6-tetrachlorophenol
95-57-8 2-chlorophenol
120-83-2 2,4-dichlorophenol Chlorophenols are polychlorinated compounds
583-78-8 2,5-dichlorophenol used as preservatives or pesticides.
87-65-0 2,6-dichlorophenol GC-MS
Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and tetrachlorophenol
95-95-4 2,4,5-trichlorophenol No intentional use
Sum = 50 ppm (TeCP) have been used in the past to prevent
88-06-2 2,4,6-trichlorophenol EN ISO 17070
mould when storing/ transporting, raw hides and
591-35-5 3,5-dichlorophenol leather. They are now regulated and should not
576-24-9 2,3-dichlorophenol be used.
95-77-2 3,4-dichlorophenol
108-43-0 3-chlorophenol
106-48-9 4-chlorophenol
15950-66-0 2,3,4-trichlorophenol
933-78-8 2,3,5-trichlorophenol
609-19-8 3,4,5-trichlorophenol

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Dyes Azo (Forming Restricted Amines)
101-14-4 4,4-methylene-bis-(2-chloro-aniline) 150 ppm
101-77-9 4,4-methylenedianiline 150 ppm
101-80-4 4,4-oxydianiline 150 ppm
106-47-8 4-chloroaniline 150 ppm
119-90-4 3,3-dimethoxylbenzidine 150 ppm
119-93-7 3,3-dimethylbenzidine 150 ppm
120-71-8 6-methoxy-m-toluidine 150 ppm
137-17-7 2,4,5-trimethylaniline 150 ppm
139-65-1 4,4-thiodianiline 150 ppm Azo dyes and pigments are colourants that
60-09-3 4-aminoazobenzene 150 ppm incorporate one or several azo groups (-N=N-
615-05-4 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 150 ppm ) bound with aromatic compounds.
838-88-0 4,4-methylenedi-o-toluidine 150 ppm Thousands of azo dyes exist, but only those
No intentional use LC, GC
87-62-7 2,6-xylidine 150 ppm that degrade to form the listed cleavable
90-04-0 o-anisidine 150 ppm amines are restricted. Azo dyes that release
91-59-8 2-naphthylamine 150 ppm these amines are regulated and should no
91-94-1 3,3-dichlorobenzidine 150 ppm longer be used for dyeing of textiles.
92-67-1 4-aminodiphenyl 150 ppm
92-87-5 Benzidine 150 ppm
95-53-4 o-toluidine 150 ppm
95-68-1 2,4-xylidine 150 ppm
95-69-2 4-chloro-o-toluidine 150 ppm
95-80-7 4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine 150 ppm
97-56-3 o-aminoazotoluene 150 ppm
99-55-8 5-nitro-o-toluidine 150 ppm
Dyes Navy Blue Colourant
118685-33-9 Component 1: C39H23ClCrN7O12S2Na Navy Blue colourants are regulated and should
No intentional use 250 ppm LC
Not Allocated Component 2: C46H30CrN10O20S23Na no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Dyes Carcinogenic or Equivalent Concern
1937-37-7 C.I. Direct Black 38 250 ppm
2602-46-2 C.I. Direct Blue 6 250 ppm
3761-53-3 C.I. Acid Red 26 250 ppm
569-61-9 C.I. Basic Red 9 250 ppm
573-58-0 C.I. Direct Red 28 250 ppm
632-99-5 C.I. Basic Violet 14 250 ppm
Most of these substances are regulated and
2475-45-8 C.I. Disperse Blue 1 No intentional use 250 ppm LC
should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.
2475-46-9 C.I. Disperse Blue 3 250 ppm
2580-56-5 C.I. Basic Blue 26 (with Michlers Ketone > 0.1%) 250 ppm
569-64-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green chloride) 250 ppm
2437-29-8 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green oxalate) 250 ppm
10309-95-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green) 250 ppm
82-28-0 Disperse Orange 11 250 ppm
Dyes Disperse (Sensitising)
119-15-3 Disperse Yellow 1 250 ppm
12222-97-8 Disperse Blue 102 250 ppm
12223-01-7 Disperse Blue 106 250 ppm
12236-29-2 Disperse Yellow 39 250 ppm
13301-61-6 Disperse Orange 37/59/76 250 ppm
23355-64-8 Disperse Brown 1 250 ppm Disperse dyes are a class of water-insoluble
2581-69-3 Disperse Orange 1 250 ppm dyes that penetrate the fibre system of
2832-40-8 Disperse Yellow 3 250 ppm synthetic or manufactured fibres and are held
2872-48-2 Disperse Red 11 250 ppm in place by physical forces without forming
2872-52-8 Disperse Red 1 No intentional use 250 ppm chemical bonds. Disperse dyes are used in LC
3179-89-3 Disperse Red 17 250 ppm synthetic fibre (e.g., polyester, acetate,
3179-90-6 Disperse Blue 7 250 ppm polyamide). Restricted disperse dyes are
3860-63-7 Disperse Blue 26 250 ppm suspected of causing allergic reactions and
54824-37-2 Disperse Yellow 49 250 ppm should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.
12222-75-2 Disperse Blue 35 250 ppm
61951-51-7 Disperse Blue 124 250 ppm
6373-73-5 Disperse Yellow 9 250 ppm
730-40-5 Disperse Orange 3 250 ppm
56524-77-7 Disperse Blue 35 250 ppm

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Flame Retardants
115-96-8 Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP) 250 ppm
1163-19-5 Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) 250 ppm
126-72-7 Tris(2,3,-dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) 250 ppm
32534-81-9 Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) 250 ppm
32536-52-0 Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) 250 ppm
5412-25-9 Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl)phosphate (BIS) 250 ppm Flame retardant chemicals are rarely used to
545-55-1 Tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide) (TEPA) 250 ppm meet flammability requirements in childrens
No intentional use GC-MS
59536-65-1 Polybromobiphenyls (PBB) 250 ppm clothing and adult products. They should no
79-94-7 Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) 250 ppm longer be used in apparel and footwear.
3194-55-6 Hexabromocyclodecane (HBCDD) 250 ppm
3296-90-0 2,2-bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol (BBMP) 250 ppm
13674-87-8 Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate (TDCP) 250 ppm
Short-chain chlorinated Paraffins (SCCP)
85535-84-8 50 ppm
(C10-C13)
Glycols
111-96-6 Bis(2-methoxyethyl)-ether 50 ppm
110-80-5 2-ethoxyethanol 50 ppm
In apparel and footwear, glycols have a wide
111-15-9 2-ethoxyethyl acetate 50 ppm
range of uses including as solvents for
110-71-4 Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether 50 ppm High-performance liquid
No intentional use finishing/cleaning, printing agents, and
109-86-4 2-methoxyethanol 50 ppm chromatography (HPLC), LC-MS
dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives
110-49-6 2-methoxyethylacetate 50 ppm
(e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).
70657-70-4 2-methoxypropylacetate 50 ppm
112-49-2 Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether 50 ppm
Halogenated Solvents
107-06-2 1,2-dichloroethane 5 ppm In apparel and footwear, solvents are used as
75-09-2 Methylene chloride 5 ppm finishing/cleaning and printing agents, for
No intentional use GC-MS
79-01-6 Trichloroethylene 40 ppm dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives
127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene 5 ppm (e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Organotin Compounds
Multiple Dibutyltin (DBT) 20 ppm Organotins are a class of chemicals combining
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-methyltin derivatives 5 ppm tin and organics such as butyl and phenyl
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-butyltin derivatives 5 ppm groups. Organotins are predominantly found in
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-phenyltin derivatives 5 ppm the environment as antifoulants in marine paints,
but they can also be used as biocides (e.g.,
GC-MS, low resolution mass
No intentional use antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and glue
spectrometry (LRMS)
production and heat stabilisers in
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-octyltin derivatives 5 ppm plastics/rubber. In textiles and apparel,
organotins are associated with plastics/rubber,
inks, paints, metallic glitter, polyurethane
products and heat transfer material.
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)
50-32-8 Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) 20 ppm Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are
120-12-7 Anthracene natural components of crude oil and are a
129-00-0 Pyrene common residue from oil refining. PAHs have a
191-24-2 Benzo[ghi]perylene characteristic smell similar to the smell of car
192-97-2 Benzo[e]pyrene tires or asphalt. Oil residues containing PAHs are
193-39-5 Indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene added to rubber and plastics as a softener or
205-82-3 Benzo[j]fluoranthene extender and may be found in rubber, plastics,
205-99-2 Benzo[b]fluoranthene lacquers and coatings. PAHs are often found in
206-44-0 Fluoranthene the outsoles of footwear and in printing pastes
207-08-9 Benzo[k]fluoranthene No intentional use of screen prints. PAHs can be present as GC-MS
208-96-8 Acenaphthylene Sum = 200 ppm impurities in Carbon Black. They also may be
218-01-9 Chrysene formed from thermal decomposition of recycled
53-70-3 Dibenz[a,h]anthracene materials during reprocessing.
56-55-3 Benzo[a]anthracene
Naphthalene: Dispersing agents for textile dyes
83-32-9 Acenaphthene
may contain high residual naphthalene
85-01-8 Phenanthrene
concentrations due to the use of low quality
86-73-7 Fluorene
naphthalene derivatives (e.g., poor quality
91-20-3 Naphthalene naphthalene sulphonate formaldehyde
condensation products).

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
Durable water, oil and stain repellent finishes and soil release finishes (fluorinated polymers) based on long-chain technology are banned from intentional use. Long-chain compounds
according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) definition (http://www.oecd.org/ehs/pfc/) are based on long-chain perfluorocarboxylic acids (C8 and
higher) and on long-chain perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (C6 and higher).
The main contaminants of this technology include:
Perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (PFSAs) with carbon chain lengths C6 and higher (e.g., PFOS, perfluorooctane sulfonate)
Perfluorocarboxylic acids with carbon chain lengths C8 and higher (e.g., PFOA, perfluorooctanoic acid)
Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and related PFOA and PFOS may be present as unintended
Multiple Sum = 2 ppm
substances by-products in long-chain commercial water, oil
No intentional use and stain repellent agents. PFOA also may be in LC-MS
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and related
Multiple 2 ppm use for polymers like polytetrafluoroethylene
substances
(PTFE).
Phthalates including all other esters of ortho-phthalic acid
117-81-7 Di(ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP)
117-82-8 Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (DMEP)
117-84-0 Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP) Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a
26761-40-0 Di-iso-decyl phthalate (DIDP) class of organic compounds commonly added
28553-12-0 Di-isononyl phthalate (DINP) to plastics to increase flexibility. They
84-75-3 Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP) sometimes are used to facilitate moulding of
84-74-2 Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) plastic by decreasing its melting temperature.
85-68-7 Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP)
84-76-4 Dinonyl phthalate (DNP) Sum of all phthalates Phthalates can be found in:
No intentional use GC-MS
84-66-2 Diethyl phthalate (DEP) = 250 ppm Flexible plastic components
131-16-8 Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPRP) (e.g., PVC)
84-69-5 Di-isobutyl phthalate (DIBP) Print pastes
84-61-7 Di-cyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP) Adhesives
27554-26-3 Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP) Plastic buttons
1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-branched Plastic sleevings
68515-42-4
and linearalkyl esters (DHNUP) Polymeric coatings
1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid,di-C6-8-branched
71888-89-6
alkyl esters,C7-rich (DIHP)

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Total Heavy Metals
Listed metals are banned from intentional use in textile manufacturing/finishing. Additionally, residual traces of antimony, zinc, copper, nickel, tin, barium, cobalt, iron, manganese, selenium
and silver in colourants are expected to comply with the Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers (ETAD) concentration limits
(http://www.etad.com/).
Arsenic and its compounds can be used in
some preservatives, pesticides and defoliants
7440-38-2 Arsenic (As) 50 ppm
for cotton. It is also associated with synthetic
fibres, paints, inks, trims and plastics.
Cadmium compounds are found in or used as:
pigments (particularly red, orange, yellow and
20 ppm
7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) green), a stabiliser for PVC plastic and in
(50 ppm for pigments)
fertilisers, biocides and paints (e.g., surface
paints on zippers and buttons). Inductively coupled plasma- optical
Mercury compounds can be present in emission spectrometry (ICP-OES),
No intentional use
pesticides and can be found as contamination atomic absorption spectroscopy
4 ppm
7439-97-6 Mercury (Hg) in caustic soda (NaOH). Mercury compounds (AAS)
(25 ppm for pigments)
may be used in paints (e.g., surface paints on
zippers and buttons).
In apparel and footwear, lead may be
7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 100 ppm associated with plastics, paints, inks, pigments
and surface coatings.
Although typically associated with leather
18540-29-9 Chromium (VI) 10 ppm tanning, chromium VI also may be used in the
dyeing of wool (after the chroming process).
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)
71-43-2 Benzene 50 ppm These volatile organic compounds should not
1330-20-7 Xylene 500 ppm be used in textile auxiliary chemical
95-48-7 o-cresol 500 ppm preparations. They are associated with
106-44-5 p-cresol No intentional use 500 ppm solvent-based processes like solvent- based GC-MS
polyurethane coatings and glues/adhesives.
108-39-4 m-cresol 500 ppm They should not be used for any kind of facility
cleaning or spot cleaning.

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Contents Contents

Chapter 2: MRSL for Leather Processing


Group A: Raw Material General Techniques for Analysing
Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Leather Processing for
CAS No. Substance and Finished Product Chemicals within commercial
Commercial Formulation Limit Apparel and Footwear
Supplier Guidance formulations
Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs): including all isomers
104-40-5
11066-49-2 APEOs can be used in leather processing or
Nonylphenol (NP), mixed isomers 250 ppm
25154-52-3 found in a variety of formulations such as
84852-15-3 detergents, wetting agents, emulsifier/
Liquid chromatography-mass
140-66-9 dispersing agents/dedusting agents for dyes
spectrometry (LC-MS), gas
1806-26-4 Octylphenol (OP), mixed isomers 250 ppm and prints, dyes and pigment preparations,
chromatography-mass
27193-28-8 degreasing and fur scouring agents, fat liquors
spectrometry (GC-MS)
9002-93-1 No intentional use and greases, water borne dispersions and
9036-19-5 Octylphenol ethoxylates (OPEO) 500 ppm emulsions used in the beamhouse and
EN ISO 18219 -1
68987-90-6 finishing agents.
EN ISO 18219 2
9016-45-9
26027-38-3 NP and OP are not used by the leather
37205-87-1 Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEO) 500 ppm industry, but could be present as
68412-54-4 contaminants.
127087-87-0
Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes
95-50-1 1,2-dichlorobenzene 1000 ppm Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes can be
used for degreasing sheep and pig skins. They
Other isomers of mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexa- chlorobenzene and No intentional use GC-MS
Sum = 200 ppm can also be used as solvents (e.g., in chemical
mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and penta- chlorotoluene
synthesis).

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Chlorophenols
25167-83-3 Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP)
Sum = 20 ppm
87-86-5 Pentachlorophenol (PCP)
4901-51-3 2,3,4,5-tetrachlorophenol
58-90-2 2,3,4,6-tetrachlorophenol
935-95-5 2,3,5,6-tetrachlorophenol
Chlorophenols are polychlorinated
95-57-8 2-chlorophenol
compounds used as preservatives or
120-83-2 2,4-dichlorophenol
pesticides.
583-78-8 2,5-dichlorophenol
GC-MS
87-65-0 2,6-dichlorophenol
Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and
95-95-4 2,4,5-trichlorophenol No intentional use
tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) have been used in EN ISO 17070
88-06-2 2,4,6-trichlorophenol Sum = 50 ppm
the past to prevent mould when
591-35-5 3,5-dichlorophenol
storing/transporting, raw hides and leather.
576-24-9 2,3-Dichlorophenol
They are now regulated and should not be
95-77-2 3,4-Dichlorophenol
used.
108-43-0 3-Chlorophenol
106-48-9 4-Chlorophenol
15950-66-0 2,3,4-Trichlorophenol
933-78-8 2,3,5-Trichlorophenol
609-19-8 3,4,5-Trichlorophenol

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Dyes Azo (Forming Restricted Amines)
101-14-4 4,4-methylene-bis-(2-chloro-aniline) 150 ppm
101-77-9 4,4-methylenedianiline 150 ppm
101-80-4 4,4-oxydianiline 150 ppm
106-47-8 4-chloroaniline 150 ppm
119-90-4 3,3-dimethoxylbenzidine 150 ppm
119-93-7 3,3-dimethylbenzidine 150 ppm
120-71-8 6-methoxy-m-toluidine 150 ppm
137-17-7 2,4,5-trimethylaniline 150 ppm
Azo dyes and pigments are colourants
139-65-1 4,4-thiodianiline 150 ppm that incorporate one or several azo
60-09-3 4-aminoazobenzene 150 ppm groups
615-05-4 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 150 ppm (-N=N-) bound with aromatic
838-88-0 4,4-methylenedi-o-toluidine 150 ppm compounds. Thousands of azo dyes exist,
but only those which degrade to form the
87-62-7 2,6-xylidine 150 ppm LC, GC-MS
listed cleavable amines are restricted. Azo
90-04-0 o-anisidine 150 ppm EN ISO 17234 1
No intentional use dyes that release these amines are EN ISO 17234 2
91-59-8 2-naphthylamine 150 ppm regulated and should no longer be used
91-94-1 3,3-dichlorobenzidine 150 ppm for dyeing of leather.
Restricted amines also may be present or
92-67-1 4-aminodiphenyl 150 ppm formed during cleavage of unintended
92-87-5 Benzidine 150 ppm impurities in raw materials used for
95-53-4 o-toluidine 150 ppm dyestuff production.
95-68-1 2,4-xylidine 150 ppm
95-69-2 4-chloro-o-toluidine 150 ppm
95-80-7 4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine 150 ppm
97-56-3 o-aminoazotoluene 150 ppm
99-55-8 5-nitro-o-toluidine 150 ppm
Dyes Navy Blue Colourant
118685-33-9 Component 1: C39H23ClCrN7O12S2Na Navy Blue colourants are regulated, were not
LC
No intentional use 250 ppm sold commercially, and should not have been
Not Allocated Component 2: C46H30CrN10O20S23Na (No test reference available)
used for dyeing of leather

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Dyes Carcinogenic or Equivalent Concern
1937-37-7 C.I. Direct Black 38 250 ppm
2602-46-2 C.I. Direct Blue 6 250 ppm
3761-53-3 C.I. Acid Red 26 250 ppm
569-61-9 C.I. Basic Red 9 250 ppm
573-58-0 C.I. Direct Red 28 250 ppm
632-99-5 C.I. Basic Violet 14 250 ppm
2475-45-8 C.I. Disperse Blue 1 250 ppm Most of these substances are regulated in
2475-46-9 C.I. Disperse Blue 3 No intentional use 250 ppm many countries. All should no longer be used LC
C.I. Basic Blue 26 (with Michlers Ketone > for dyeing of leather.
2580-56-5 250 ppm
0.1%)
569-64-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green chloride) 250 ppm
2437-29-8 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green oxalate) 250 ppm
10309-95-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green) 250 ppm
82-28-0 Disperse Orange 11 250 ppm
Dyes Disperse (Sensitizing)
Disperse dyes have no applicability to leather processing.
Fat liquoring agents
Gas chromatography/ electron
Short-chain chlorinated paraffins can be capture negative ion-mass
found as contaminants within long-chain spectrometry
85535-84-8 Short-chain chlorinated paraffin (C10 C13) No intentional use 250 ppm
chlorinated paraffins and sulfo-chlorinated (GC/ECNI-MS)
paraffins, used as fat liquoring agents.
EN ISO 18219

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Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Flame Retardants
115-96-8 Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP) 250 ppm
1163-19-5 Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) 250 ppm
126-72-7 Tris(2,3,-dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) 250 ppm Flame retardant chemicals are rarely used to
32534-81-9 Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) 250 ppm meet flammability requirements in childrens
32536-52-0 Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) 250 ppm clothing and adult products, but they could be
5412-25-9 Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl)phosphate (BIS) 250 ppm used in processing leather for technical/
545-55-1 Tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide) (TEPA) No intentional use 250 ppm GC-MS
industrial purposes (e.g., drive belts) and
59536-65-1 Polybromobiphenyls (PBB) 250 ppm upholstery leather for trains and planes. The
79-94-7 Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) 250 ppm mentioned substances should no longer be
3194-55-6 Hexabromocyclodecane (HBCDD) 250 ppm used in apparel and footwear.
3296-90-0 2,2-bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol (BBMP) 250 ppm
13674-87-8 Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate (TDCP) 250 ppm

82-28-0 Disperse Orange 11 250 ppm

Glycol Ethers
111-96-6 Bis(2-methoxyethyl)-ether 50 ppm In apparel and footwear, glycol ethers have a
wide range of uses including as solvents for
110-80-5 2-ethoxyethanol 50 ppm finishing/cleaning, printing agents and
111-15-9 2-ethoxyethyl acetate 50 ppm dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives
(e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).
110-71-4 Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether No intentional use 50 ppm High-performance liquid
Some polar solvents (glycol ethers) are
109-86-4 2-methoxyethanol 50 ppm necessary for the use of water-based leather chromatography (HPLC), LC-MS
110-49-6 2-methoxyethylacetate 50 ppm finishing systems.

112-49-2 Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether 50 ppm The mentioned glycol ethers are classified as
carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic
70657-70-4 2-methoxypropylacetate 1000 ppm substances and should not be used in
processing leather.
Halogenated Solvents
107-06-2 1,2-dichloroethane 5 ppm
In apparel and footwear, solvents are used as
75-09-2 Methylene chloride 5 ppm finishing/cleaning and printing agents, for
No intentional use GC-MS
79-01-6 Trichloroethylene 40 ppm dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives
(e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).
127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene 5 ppm

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Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Organotin Compounds
20 ppm Organotins are a class of chemicals combining
(*EXCEPTION* 100 ppm for tin and organics such as butyl and phenyl
Multiple Dibutyltin (DBT) polyurethane based groups. Organotins are predominantly found
thickeners used at <20% in the environment as antifoulants in marine
loading) paints, but they can also be used as biocides
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-methyltin derivatives 5 ppm (e.g., antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and GC-MS, low resolution mass
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-butyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm glue productions and heat stabilizers in spectrometry (LRMS)
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-phenyltin derivatives 5 ppm plastics/rubber.
Polyurethane thickeners, which could contain
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-octyltin derivatives 5 ppm traces of DBT, are commonly used for
viscosity adjustments of leather chemicals
formulations.
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)
50-32-8 Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) 20 ppm
120-12-7 Anthracene
129-00-0 Pyrene
191-24-2 Benzo[ghi]perylene
192-97-2 Benzo[e]pyrene
193-39-5 Indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene
205-82-3 Benzo[j]fluoranthene Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are
205-99-2 Benzo[b]fluoranthene natural components of crude oil and are a
common residue from oil refining. PAHs are
206-44-0 Fluoranthene GC-MS
Sum = 200 ppm typically found as contaminants within leather
207-08-9 Benzo[k]fluoranthene formulations.
208-96-8 Acenaphthylene No intentional use
218-01-9 Chrysene
53-70-3 Dibenz[a,h]anthracene
56-55-3 Benzo[a]anthracene
83-32-9 Acenaphthene
85-01-8 Phenanthrene
86-73-7 Fluorene
In the leather chemical industry, naphthalene
is used as a raw material for manufacture of
synthetic tanning agents (syntans) and for
91-20-3
DECEMBER 2015 Naphthalene 300RESPONSIBILITY
LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL ppm GC-MS,
1 LC
manufacture of active substances in
dispersing agents used during leather
Supplier Quality Manual V 01 Effective date: 01/01/2017 421 processing.
Supplier Quality Manual Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL)
Contents Contents

Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Organotin Compounds
20 ppm Organotins are a class of chemicals combining
(*EXCEPTION* 100 ppm for tin and organics such as butyl and phenyl
Multiple Dibutyltin (DBT) polyurethane based groups. Organotins are predominantly found
thickeners used at <20% in the environment as antifoulants in marine
loading) paints, but they can also be used as biocides
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-methyltin derivatives 5 ppm (e.g., antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and GC-MS, low resolution mass
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-butyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm glue productions and heat stabilizers in spectrometry (LRMS)
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-phenyltin derivatives 5 ppm plastics/rubber.
Polyurethane thickeners, which could contain
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-octyltin derivatives 5 ppm traces of DBT, are commonly used for
viscosity adjustments of leather chemicals
formulations.
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)
50-32-8 Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) 20 ppm
120-12-7 Anthracene
129-00-0 Pyrene
191-24-2 Benzo[ghi]perylene Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are
natural components of crude oil and are a
192-97-2 Benzo[e]pyrene common residue from oil refining. PAHs are
No intentional use GC-MS
193-39-5 Indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene Sum = 200 ppm typically found as contaminants within leather
formulations.
205-82-3 Benzo[j]fluoranthene
205-99-2 Benzo[b]fluoranthene
206-44-0 Fluoranthene
207-08-9 Benzo[k]fluoranthene

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Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
Durable water, oil and stain repellent finishes and soil release finishes (fluorinated polymers) based on long-chain technology are banned from intentional use. Long-chain compounds
according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) definition (http://www.oecd.org/ehs/pfc/) are based on long-chain perfluorocarboxylic acids (C8 and
higher) and on long-chain perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (C6 and higher).
The main contaminants of this technology include:
Perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (PFSAs) with carbon chain lengths C6 and higher (e.g., PFOS, perfluorooctane sulfonate)
Perfluorocarboxylic acids with carbon chain lengths C8 and higher (e.g., PFOA, perfluorooctanoic acid)
Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and related PFOA and PFOS may be present as unintended
Multiple Sum = 2 ppm
substances by-products in long-chain commercial water, oil
No intentional use and stain repellent agents. PFOA also may be in LC-MS
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and related
Multiple 2 ppm use for polymers like polytetrafluoroethylene
substances
(PTFE).
Phthalates including all other esters of ortho-phthalic acid
117-81-7 Di(ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP)
117-82-8 Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (DMEP)
117-84-0 Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP) Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a
26761-40-0 Di-iso-decyl phthalate (DIDP) class of organic compounds commonly added
28553-12-0 Di-isononyl phthalate (DINP) to plastics to increase flexibility. They
84-75-3 Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP) sometimes are used to facilitate moulding of
84-74-2 Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) plastic by decreasing its melting temperature.
85-68-7 Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP)
84-76-4 Dinonyl phthalate (DNP) Sum of all phthalates Phthalates can be found in:
No intentional use GC-MS
84-66-2 Diethyl phthalate (DEP) = 250 ppm Flexible plastic components
131-16-8 Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPRP) (e.g., PVC)
84-69-5 Di-isobutyl phthalate (DIBP) Print pastes
84-61-7 Di-cyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP) Adhesives
27554-26-3 Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP) Plastic buttons
1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-branched Plastic sleevings
68515-42-4
and linearalkyl esters (DHNUP) Polymeric coatings
1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid,di-C6-8-branched
71888-89-6
alkyl esters,C7-rich (DIHP)

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Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Total Heavy Metals
Listed metals are banned from intentional use in textile manufacturing/finishing. Additionally, residual traces of antimony, zinc, copper, nickel, tin, barium, cobalt, iron, manganese, selenium
and silver in colourants are expected to comply with the Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers (ETAD) concentration limits
(http://www.etad.com/)
Arsenic and its compounds can be used in
some preservatives, pesticides and defoliants
for cotton. It is also associated with synthetic
7440-38-2 Arsenic (As) 50 ppm fibres, paints, inks, trims and plastics.
Arsenic is not a typical residue in leather
chemicals.
Cadmium compounds are found in or used as:
pigments (particularly red, orange, yellow and
20 ppm Inductively coupled plasma-
7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) green), a stabiliser for PVC plastic and in
(50 ppm for pigments) optical emission spectrometry
fertilisers, biocides and paints (e.g., surface
(ICP-OES), atomic absorption
paints on zippers and buttons).
spectroscopy (AAS)
Mercury compounds can be present in
pesticides and can be found as contamination
in caustic soda (NaOH). Mercury compounds
No intentional use 4 ppm may be used in paints (e.g., surface paints on
7439-97-6 Mercury (Hg)
(25 ppm for pigments) zippers and buttons).
Mercury is not a typical residue in leather Cr (III) Tanning agents can be
chemicals. monitored for Cr(VI)
In apparel and footwear, lead may be
EN ISO 17075 (Current Use)
7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 100 ppm associated with plastics, paints, inks, pigments
ISO/DIS 19071 (Draft)
and surface coatings.
The two-bath process for tanning using
potassium dichromate (VI) is no longer used
by the leather industry.
18540-29-9 Chromium (VI) 10 ppm Potassium dichromate (VI) and other
chromium (VI) compounds are banned and
chromium (VI) residues in chromium (III)
tanning agents are restricted.

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Group A: Raw Material and


Group B: Chemical Supplier Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile General Techniques for Analysing
CAS No. Substance Finished Product Supplier
Commercial Formulation Limit Processing Chemicals
Guidance
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)
71-43-2 Benzene 50 ppm These volatile organic compounds should not
95-48-7 o-cresol 500 ppm be used in textile and leather auxiliary
106-44-5 p-cresol 500 ppm chemical preparations. They are associated
No intentional use with solvent-based processes like solvent- GC-MS
based polyurethane coatings and
108-39-4 m-cresol 500 ppm
glues/adhesives. They should not be used for
any kind of facility cleaning or spot cleaning.

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