Plans N O W
w w w. P l a n s N O W. c o m
shop-built
PANEL SAW
P anel saws are impressive. They make it
easy for one person to cut a plywood sheet.
But the high price of a store-bought model
has always kept me from adding this tool to my
shop. So I decided to build my own version with
the features that I like.
VERTICAL BED. To prevent twist and warp, I
used sturdy, 3/4" birch plywood to create a vertical
A-frame bed. And for the support rails, I used a
strong Douglas fir for added strength.
RIPPING. The Panel Saw can also be used for
ripping. Just lock the carriage in place, rotate the
From ShopNotes magazine page 1 of 11
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saw 90, and push the workpiece through the
blade. To provide additional support when rip-
ping a full sheet of plywood, I added two remov-
able wings to the sides of the saw.
MOBILE. Since the Panel Saw is about 10
feet long (with the wings), I attached casters
to roll it around. When Im done cutting, the
Panel Saw folds up flat and rolls against the wall
for storage.
DESIGN OPTION. This plan includes an
optional design for adding a router carriage for
cutting grooves and dadoes in sheet goods.
2007 August Home Publishing Company
All rights reserved
 EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
1163/8W x 271/4D x 767/8H
1!/2" SLIDING GLASS
DOOR WHEEL
PULLEY S PULLEY BASE PLATE
SUPPORT T
D TOP RAIL
TOP BRACE
PLATE EDGE
G RAIL 1!/2" EMT CONDUIT
C

COUNTER-
%/16" WEIGHT L CARRIAGE
PLASTIC #/32"
T-KNOB WIRE
ROPE
K INSERT
BRACE B
F CENTER
RAIL

BOTTOM
BRACE
PLATE
G MATERIAL
REST EXTENSION
FOOT EXTENSION
BACK Q
H A A P
BED PIECE

BASE
PIECE
I R
LIP
EXTENSION
N
MATERIAL
REST LIP
M
3" BUTT MATERIAL
HINGE O REST
EXTENSION
E SUPPORT
BOTTOM 1!/2"
RAIL CONDUIT
THREADED STRAP
STAR KNOB

MATERIALS LIST
WOOD
A Bed Pieces (2) 3/ ply - 36 x 72 T Pulley Support (1) 3/ ply - 2 x 6 (1) 5/16" x 2" - 31/4" square U-bolt
4 4
B Center Rails (2) 11/2 x 3 - 72 U Pipe Cap (1) 3/ x 21/ -dia. rough
4 2 (1) 5/16" lock nut w/ nylon insert
C Edge Rails (2) 11/2 x 3 - 78 (4) 5/16" x 21/4" threaded star knobs
D Top Rail (1) 11/2 x 23/8 - 305/8 HARDWARE SUPPLIES (4) 5/16" T-nuts
E Bottom Rail (1) 11/2 x 23/8 - 777/8 (100) No. 8 x 11/2" Fh woodscrews (1) 5/16" x 11/2" eye bolt
F Braces (2) 11/2 x 3 - 48 (16) No. 8 x 11/4" Fh woodscrews (8) 3/8" x 5" lag bolts
G Top/Btm. Br. Plt. (1) 3/ ply - 6 x 151/ (7) 1/4" x 3/4" threaded round knobs (8) 3/8" washers
4 2
H Foot (1) 3/ ply - 3 x 8 (7) 1/4" T-nuts w/ brad holes (34) 1/2" nylon spacers -.375 x .562
4
I Base Pieces (2) 3/ ply - 193/ x 32 rgh. (8) 1/4" x 11/2" lag bolts (5) 7/8" nail-on plastic glides
4 4
J Turnbuttons (2) 3/ x 11/ - 31/ (18) 1/4" washers (2) 11/2" x 72" EMT conduit
4 2 2
K Insert (1) 1/ hdbd. - 73/ x 113/ (4) 1/4" x 11/4" fender washers (4) 11/2" conduit straps
4 4 4
L Carriage (2) 1/ hdbd. - 153/ x 19 (1) 1/4" x 4" hex bolt (2) 11/2" sliding glass door wheels
2 4
M Material Rest (2) 11/4 x 2 - 331/4 (2) 1/4" x 11/2" hex bolts (1) No. 6 x 11/2" S-hook
N Matl. Rest Lips (2) 1/ hdbd. - 21/ x 253/ (3) 1/4" hex nuts (2) 2" swivel casters
4 2 4
O Ext. Supports (2) 3/ ply - 7 x 48 (2) 5/16" x 3" hanger bolts (8) 3" butt hinges w/ screws
4
P Ext. Back (2) 3/ ply - 77/ x 24 (3) 5/16" plastic T-knobs (1) 3" x 13" PVC pipe
4 8
Q Matl. Rest Ext. (2) 11/4 x 2 - 22 (4) 5/16" x 2" - 31/4" U-bolts (7 ft.) 3/32" wire rope
R Lip Extensions (2) 1/ hdbd. - 21/ x 22 (18) 5/16" hex nuts (2) 3/32" crimp-on clips
4 2
S Pulley Base Plate (1) 3/ ply - 6 x 9 (18) 5/16" washers (16 lbs.) Lead weight (will vary with saw)
4

From ShopNotes magazine page 2 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company

www.ShopNotes.com All rights reserved
 CUTTING DIAGRAM BED
#/4" BIRCH PLYWOOD - 48 x 96 #/4" BIRCH PLYWOOD - 24 x 48
I started on the Panel Saw by making the
O
bed. The bed is built in two sections. Each
I O
A section consists of a triangular piece of
G G S plywood with one edge rail and one center
I H rail screwed to the long edges of each bed
T
piece (Fig. 1).
A !/4" TEMPERED HARDBOARD - 24 x 48
P CUT PIECES. To make the bed sections,
N R
start by cutting two bed pieces (A) from a
P
L L
K blank of 3/4" plywood (Fig. 1). To do this,
NOTE: ALSO NEED FOUR
I first raised the plywood off the floor with
96" PIECES 2x8 DOUGLAS FIR some scrap 2x4s. Then I clamped another
2x4 diagonally across the workpiece to
act as a straightedge for the saw. Next, cut
1 the center and edge rails (B, C) to length
NOTE: EDGE AND CENTER
RAILS ARE 1!/2"-THICK STOCK. (Fig. 1). Note: The edge rails are cut 6"
BED PIECES ARE #/4" PLYWOOD
11&/8 longer than the center rails (Fig. 1). I used
78
C EDGE RAIL
straight-grained 2x8s for both the center
and edge rails. I ripped them to a finished
width of 3".
ATTACH RAILS. With all of the rails cut
B A 3 to size, they are ready to be clamped and
CENTER RAIL BED PIECE screwed to the bed pieces. The edge rails (C)
72 need to extend past the bottom edge of the
bed. They will become two of the feet for
BED a. EDGE b. the panel saw (Fig. 1b). To ensure that both
RAIL
EDGE EXTENDS feet extend an equal distance on both sides,
RAIL #8 x 1!/2" Fh PAST BED EDGE just position the top inside corner of each
A WOODSCREW 36 RAIL
TOP INSIDE C edge rail flush with the top of the bed (Fig.
CORNER IS C BED A 1a). The center rails (B) are left flush with
FLUSH WITH
BED the bottom edge of the bed.
CONNECT SECTIONS. After the two
sections are complete, theyre connected
2 THIRD: with a top and bottom rail (D, E) (Fig. 2).
D LAG BOLT ENDS I used the remainders of the 2x8s to make
TOP RAIL (SEE DETAIL a)
(2#/8" x 30%/8") the rails, but this time the rails are ripped to
a finished width of 23/8".
CUTTING TROUGH. To prevent the cir-
SECOND: cular saw from cutting into the bed, a space
SCREW BED
TO RAILS (cutting trough) is left between the two sec-
tions (Fig. 2). I used a piece of 6"-long scrap
NOTE: WASHER 2x4 as the spacer to get both sections into
RAILS ARE
1!/2"-THICK place before screwing the bed pieces to the
STOCK
rails (Fig. 2). Note: This scrap spacer will
a. be used later to position the guide tubes. For
added strength, I secured the ends of the
#8 x 1!/2" Fh edge and center rails to the top and bottom
FIRST: WOODSCREW
#/8" USE 6" LONG rails with lag bolts (Fig. 2a).
WASHER SPACER TO POSITION E
BED SECTIONS ON RAILS BOTTOM RAIL CASTERS. Finally, to roll the saw around
#/8" x 5" the shop, I screwed a pair of 2" swivel casters
LAG BOLT
b. under the bottom rail (Fig. 2b).
77&/8
BOTTOM
BED RAIL BACK SUPPORT
2#/8
EDGE
RAIL EDGE Once the bed is complete, the next step is
RAIL
to make the folding back support. In the
BOTTOM down position, it holds the bed upright.
RAIL #8 x 1!/2" Fh
2" SWIVEL CASTER WOODSCREW
CASTER

From ShopNotes magazine page 3 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company

www.ShopNotes.com All rights reserved
 The back support consists of two main 3
parts: a brace assembly and two plywood a. %/16" x 3"
HANGER BOLT
base pieces (Fig. 3).To move the Panel
NOTE:
Saw, the back support folds up, and the TOP BRACE LOCATE
PLATE HANGER
saw can be rolled around on the casters. G BOLTS 46"
The back support consists of two FROM
%/16" PLASTIC
BOTTOM OF
main parts: a brace assembly and two CENTER RAIL T-KNOB
plywood base pieces (Fig. 3). F
BRACE ASSEMBLY. The brace is a B BRACE G
CENTER TOP BRACE
simple wood frame (Fig. 4). The braces BRACE J
RAIL PLATE
(F) are 11/2"-thick stock cut to a finished F TURNBUTTON
(#/4" STOCK -
length of 48". Complete the frame by 1!/2" x 3!/2")
screwing a 3/4" plywood top and bottom b. BOTTOM
BRACE
plate (G) to the braces (Fig. 4). CENTER RAIL PLATE
To secure the brace assembly to the BRACE G
F
vertical bed, cut slots in the top plate
(Fig. 4a). The slots fit over hanger bolts
installed in the center rails (Fig. 3a). BOTTOM 3" BUTT
BASE BRACE HINGE
Tightening a plastic T-knob (or wing nut) PIECE PLATE
FOOT
locks the bed in place. I G H
Note: A counterbore at the end of the H FOOT
slot prevents the knob from sliding as its I BASE PIECE
tightened (Figs. 3a and 4a).
FOOT. Now all that needs to be done
to complete the brace assembly is to 4 SCREW TOP AND BOTTOM
screw a plywood foot (H) to the bottom TOP BRACE PLATE G BRACE PLATES FLUSH
WITH ENDS AND EDGES BOTTOM
plate (Fig. 4). With the ends of the two OF BRACES BRACE PLATE
edge rails, this foot creates a tripod that NOTE: BRACES G
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
stabilizes the Panel Saw. ARE 1!/2"-THICK STOCK. WOODSCREW
PLATES AND FOOT
BASE. The last step is to build the ARE #/4" PLYWOOD 6
base. The base is just two triangular- F 15!/2
shaped pieces of plywood that keep the
BRACE F
Panel Saw from racking (Fig. 5).
The base pieces (I) are hinged to
the bed and braces (Fig. 5). Start by a. FIRST: DRILL 1" 48
screwing the brace assembly to the base COUNTERBORE !/8" DEEP
pieces. But to allow the back support to 4!/4
easily fold up, I left 1/4" clearance between NOTE: H
TOP EXTEND FOOT 3 FOOT
the base pieces and the center rails. 1
PLATE 2" PAST BOTTOM (3" x 8")
Note: To keep everything straight, BRACE PLATE
SECOND:
screw the hinges to the bases first. Attach CUT #/8"-WIDE SLOT TO
END OF COUNTERBORE #8 x 1!/4" Fh
the back support with screws to the bed. WOODSCREW
TURNBUTTON. Finally, screw a
turnbutton (J) to each center rail to
secure the back support in the up
position (Fig. 3).

5 POSITION EDGE OF
BASE PIECE !/4" FROM
CENTER RAIL a. 32

2 BASE PIECE
I
I
19#/4
3" BUTT HINGES
NOTE:
WOODSCREW BRACE BASE PIECE
ASSEMBLY IS #/4" PLYWOOD

BASE PIECE 3!/2

I

From ShopNotes magazine page 4 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company

www.ShopNotes.com All rights reserved
 6 !/4" x #/4" THREADED
ROUND KNOB a. .375 I.D. x .562
!/4" x 1!/4" INSERT GUIDE O.D. - !/2"-LONG
%/16" x 2" - 3!/4" FENDER K TUBE NYLON SPACERS
U-BOLT W/ PLATE WASHER

CUT ONE 1!/2"

NYLON SPACER IN HALF THIN WALL
SPACERS %/16" TO FILL U-BOLT ELECTRICAL
WASHER CONDUIT

%/16"
T-KNOB
&/8" NAIL-ON
!/4" PLASTIC CUT ENDS OF
T-NUT FURNITURE BOLT FLUSH
%/16" GLIDE WITH NUT TRIM FLUSH
HEX NUT

NOTE: SQUARE
b. 19
!/2
CARRIAGE
L U-BOLT LOCKS
SAW IN POSITION
%/16" LOCK NUT FOR RIPPING
W/ NYLON INSERT (SEE PAGE 97)
!/2
%/16" x 2" - 3!/4" CL
SQUARE U-BOLT L
W/ STRAP

CL 15#/4
c. BEARING RIDES
ON TOP EDGE
d. CREATE 2!/4
LIP BY #/8
OF GUIDE STRIP REMOVING
WASTE WITH
RECESS JIG SAW
GUIDE ROUT !/4"-
STRIP DEEP RECESSES
#/8
2!/4
CARRIAGE
CARRIAGE WASTE
DRILL #/64"-DIA. HOLES
!/2" PATTERN BIT FOR FURNITURE GLIDES

7 THIRD: DRILL
CARRIAGE ASSEMBLY
FIRST: LOCATE AND HOLES AND CUT SLOT
DRILL THREE %/16" HOLES
IN BASE OF SAW SLOT IN INSERT a. ADJUSTING The heart of this Panel Saw is the car-
SAW HOLE
BASE riage assembly. This versatile assembly
DRILL provides an easy way to mount the saw.
%/16"
BLADE
HOLE Plus, it allows you to easily rotate the saw
OPENING for accurate crosscutting or ripping. The
carriage assembly is built from three
b. !/4" THREADED
11#/4 ROUND main parts: an insert attached to the base
K INSERT KNOB
INSERT !/4 of the circular saw, a sliding carriage to
7#/4 SECOND:
CENTER SAW BASE hold the insert, and a pair of metal guide
PIVOT ON INSERT AND SAW tubes that the carriage slides on.
POINT HOLE TRANSFER HOLES
!/4" T-NUT BASE INSERT. The base of the circular
saw is attached to an insert (K) made of
1/ " hardboard that fits into a recessed
4
opening in the carriage (Fig. 6).
8 FIRST: SECOND: THIRD: MOUNTING HOLES. The saw is then
GLUE UP TWO CENTER INSERT POSITION GUIDE
PIECES OF !/4" ON CARRIAGE STRIPS AROUND mounted to the hardboard insert with 1/4"
HARDBOARD EDGES OF
INSERT
threaded knobs and T-nuts. This means
youll first have to drill three holes in the
saw base (Fig. 7).
INSERT After drilling the holes, center the saw
K base on the insert, and transfer the loca-
GUIDE
a. !/4" HARDBOARD
tion of the holes and the blade opening
STRIP
onto the insert. Now you can drill the
#/4"
PLY holes and cut the slot in the insert.
GUIDE 1
ADJUSTMENT. Next, to provide a
L
CARRIAGE way to adjust the saw, enlarge the two
CARPET 3 holes at the end of the insert (Fig. 7a).
TAPE
The single hole at the other end of the
insert will be used later as a pivot point
to help position the saw blade.

From ShopNotes magazine page 5 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company

www.ShopNotes.com All rights reserved
CARRIAGE 9 SECOND:
SLIDE CARRIAGE TO TOP
OF GUIDE TUBES
Just as its name implies, the carriage NOTE: SEE THE
carries the saw up and down the guide TOP RAIL SHOP TIP BELOW
1!/2" ON HOW TO
tubes on the Panel Saw. Depending on CONDUIT MAKE THE TUBES
STRAP ADJUSTABLE
whether youre ripping or crosscutting !/4" x 1!/2"
LAG BOLT GUIDE
a panel, the insert fits into one of the two TUBE
(1!/2" CONDUIT)
recessed openings. To make the carriage
THIRD:
(L), start by gluing together two pieces LAG BOLT
of 1/4" hardboard (Figs. 6 and 6b). CONDUIT
STRAPS FIRST:
Creating the recessed openings is a SPACER CLAMP SPACER
FOURTH: TO BACK OF
simple two-step process. First, a 1/4"-deep REPEAT PROCESS
BLOCK
CARRIAGE
recess is routed in the carriage to match AT THE BOTTOM
OF PANEL SAW
the shape of the insert (Fig. 6c). Then a
lip is created by removing the waste with
a jig saw (or coping saw) (Fig. 6d).
The trick to making the recess is to
10
use the insert as a template and rout the
THREADED
recess with a pattern bit. First, center the KNOB
insert on the carriage (Fig. 8). Then, to
guide the router, tape strips around the
a. !/4" THREADED KNOB
edges of the insert with carpet tape.
ROUT RECESS. Now you can remove FENDER
WASHER
the insert and rout one recess (Fig. 6c). HOLDS INSERT
IN PLACE
Then repeat the process, and rout a CARRIAGE
second recess 90 to the first (Fig. 6b). INSERT
LIP. To complete the openings and INSERT
CARRIAGE
form the lip for the insert, remove the FENDER
WASHER
waste with a jig saw (Fig. 6d). !/4" T-NUT
HARDWARE. All thats left is to drill
holes and install hardware onto the car-
riage. To help the carriage slide smoothly the guide tubes and the carriage, I added INSTALL TUBES. Now the top and
without a lot of play, I slipped nylon nail-on plastic furniture glides between bottom ends of the guide tubes can be
spacers over the four U-bolts. Just slide the ends of each U-bolt. secured with the straps and lag bolts
them over the bolts like you would when (Fig. 9). But first, slot the holes in the
lacing beads on a necklace. GUIDE TUBES ears of the conduit straps (see the Shop
Note: You may need to cut one of the Tip at left). Next, place a square U-bolt
spacers in half to completely cover the The next step in assembling the car- and a locking knob on the carriage. This
U-bolt and surround the tube (Fig. 6a). riage is to use conduit straps to attach U-bolt is used to lock the carriage in place
Finally, to reduce the friction between the carriage guide tubes to the top and (see the Technique on page 97).
bottom rails. (The tubes are just 6-foot ATTACH INSERT. Finally, attach the
long pieces of 11/2" thin wall electrical insert to the carriage with knobs and
conduit.) T-nuts (Fig. 10a). The knobs tighten
MOUNT CARRIAGE. Before attaching against fender washers, holding the
the guide tubes, slide the ends of the insert in place.
Enlarge Holes tubes through the carriage U-bolts. Now
To make the guide tubes adjust- the carriage assembly can be slid over
able, I enlarged the holes in the the top and bottom rails.
ears of the conduit straps. The key is to center the carriage
on the cutting trough and position the
guide tubes parallel with each other.
An easy way to do this is to use the
same spacer that was used earlier to
ENLARGE form the cutting trough. Just clamp the
HOLE
spacer so its centered on the back of
the carriage and extends into the cut-
ting trough (Fig. 9). Thanks to a pair of recesses placed per-
As you slide the carriage to the top and pendicular to each other, the insert can be
bottom of the tubes, the spacer centers rotated 90 for crosscutting or ripping.
the carriage on the cutting trough, posi-
tioning the tubes parallel to each other.

From ShopNotes magazine page 6 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company

www.ShopNotes.com All rights reserved
 MATERIAL REST
The Panel Saw is designed with a mate-
rial rest to support sheet goods during
a cut. Why not just use the bottom rail
as a rest? Because the carriage would
bottom out on the rail before the saw
could cut all the way through a work-
piece.
The material rest (M) is made of two
11/4"-thick blanks (one for each half of
the bed) (Fig. 11). A number of deep
dadoes create openings in the rest that
allow sawdust to fall through.
CHAMFER EDGES. To prevent sheet rest. This will help to track workpieces
goods from catching on the material along the material rest (Fig. 11).
rest, the top edge of each opening is Note: Cut the lip shorter than the rest
chamfered (see Shop Tip on this page). to allow clearance for the carriage.
I also chamfered the edges of the bed ATTACH REST. The last step is to
next to the cutting trough. clamp and screw the material rest to the
LIP. Before attaching the material rest bed (Fig. 11a). The key here is to posi-
to the bed piece, glue a 1/4" hardboard lip tion the pieces so the top edges are level
(N) flush with the ends of the material and are 90 to the cutting trough.
11 CHAMFER EDGES
(SEE SHOP TIP
AT LEFT)
SCREW MATERIAL
REST TO BED WITH
MATERIAL #8 x 1!/2" Fh
REST WOODSCREWS
M

LOCATE
BOTTOM
OF MATERIAL

Eased Edges 2!/2

33!/4 REST 7" FROM
BOTTOM RAIL

To allow workpieces to slide easily

2
on the material rest, rout or file a
chamfer on the top edges of each
N
opening and the edge of the bed MATERIAL 25#/4
next to the cutting trough. REST LIP
(!/4" HARDBOARD)

GLUE END OF LIP

MATERIAL
a. REST M FLUSH WITH END
OF MATERIAL REST
FILE FILE
TOP EDGES BED
EDGE TOP VIEW
OF
BED
b.
2!/2 2 1#/4 2
2!/2
M 2
1!/4 M

NOTE: DADOES
ALLOW DUST N LIP
LIP N !/4 TO FALL THROUGH

12 CUT END OF EXTENSION TO

MATCH OUTSIDE EDGE OF BED
a. P EXTENSION
Q
3 R

24
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
P WOODSCREW
EXTENSION 2
21 BACK %/16"
THREADED T-NUT
KNOB #8 x 1!/4" Fh
WOODSCREW
7&/8
MATERIAL
REST
EXTENSION O
Q EXTENSION
SUPPORT %/16" x 2!/4" O 3!/2
(7" x 48") THREADED
OVERLAP KNOB
BY 2"
2
NOTE:
CHAMFER
TOP EDGE FOR BED
NOTE:
R DUST RELIEF EXTENSION
22 BACK AND
LIP SUPPORT BOTTOM
EXTENSION GLUE LIP TO ARE #/4" PLYWOOD RAIL
(!/4" HARDBOARD) MATERIAL REST
2!/2

From ShopNotes magazine page 7 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company

www.ShopNotes.com All rights reserved
 WINGS
To provide extra support when ripping, I port. To hold the shot in the pipe, I cut a An S-hook in one loop hooks into an
built two wings. Each wing consists of 3/ " hardwood pipe cap (U) to fit snugly eye bolt that is installed on the carriage
4
an extension support (O) and an exten- inside the end of the pipe (Fig. 15b). (Fig. 14). (I cut off the exposed, threaded
sion back (P) (Fig. 12). WIRE CABLE. After the counter- end of the eye bolt for clearance.) The
The support is ripped to width from a weight was done, I ran a 7-foot length other end slips over a bolt which passes
48"-long piece of plywood to fit between of wire cable over the pulleys to con- through the top of the pipe (Fig. 15a).
the material rest and the bottom rail. nect the pipe to the carriage. Each end Note: To keep the loop from slipping
Next, I cut the extension back to of the cable has a loop made with a to one side of the bolt, I filed a small notch
match the diagonal edges of the vertical crimp-on clip. in the middle of the bolt (Fig. 15a).
bed, and screwed the pieces together
(Fig. 12a). To make the wings remov-
able for storage, I drilled two holes for 13
threaded knobs, T-nuts, and washers in #8 x 1!/2" Fh
a. CENTER PULLEY
WOODSCREW 1!/2"
each of the extension supports. !/2 #/4
PULLEY
T SUPPORT PULLEY ON LENGTH
!/4" OF BASE
MATERIAL REST. Finally, build a HEX NUT PLATE
material rest extension from 11/2" stock PULLEY
(Q) and a hardboard lip extension (R) for BASE PLATE
each wing (Fig. 12). S
!/4" x 1!/2" 2
HEX BOLT
PULLEY SYSTEM #/4 1
6

All thats left to complete the Panel Saw

CL
is to add a pulley system and counter- S
weight. The idea here is for the carriage 9
NOTE: #8 x 1!/2" Fh
to return easily to the top of the guide FRONT EDGES OF CENTER WOODSCREW
tubes when you finish a cut. BASE AND RAIL RAIL
ARE FLUSH
The pulley system consists of three TOP RAIL

parts: a pulley base plate (S), a pulley

support (T), and a couple of 11/2" wheels 14 FORM LOOP AND %/16"
used for sliding glass doors (Fig. 13). CRIMP ON #/32" CLIP HEX NUT a. CRIMP CLIP
The base plate and pulley support IN VISE
are both made from 3/4" plywood (Fig. #/32"
WIRE
NOTE:
13). After drilling holes and bolting the CABLE
CUT OFF END
#6 x 1!/2" S-HOOK OF EYE BOLT
wheels to the pulley support, the two S-HOOK
pieces can then be screwed together
to form an upside-down T-shape (Fig.
CARRIAGE
13a).
Note: Locate the pulley support so
the pulleys (not the support) are cen-
%/16"
tered on the length of the base plate. WASHER
EYE
The final step in completing the pulley %/16" x 1!/2" BOLT CARRIAGE
EYE BOLT
system is to screw the base plate to the
top rail so the pulleys are centered on the
width of the cutting trough.
15
COUNTERWEIGHT !/4" x 4"
HEX BOLT
PVC PIPE a.
With the pulley system in place, the (3" DIA. x 13" LONG) CABLE
last step is to add a counterweight. The FILE
NOTCH
secret is to make the counter weight IN BOLT
roughly equal to the combined weight !/4" HEX NUT
of your circular saw and carriage. (In my PVC PIPE
case, this was sixteen pounds.)
This lets you control the saw as it cuts CUT
a panel. And it allows the saw to travel #/4"-THICK b.
PIECE OF
easily back to the top of the tubes. STOCK
#8 x 1!/4" Fh TO FIT END
LEAD SHOT. To make the counter- WOODSCREW OF PIPE
weight, I filled a length of 3" PVC pipe U
with lead shot (Fig. 15). But concrete, FILL PIPE WITH LEAD SHOT
sand, or any other weight will work fine, TO MATCH WEIGHT OF SAW
PIPE
just as long as it clears the back sup- CAP U
(2!/2" DIA.)

From ShopNotes magazine page 8 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company

www.ShopNotes.com All rights reserved
 SETUP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Panel Saw
T aking a few minutes to tune up the
Panel Saw is the secret to making
perfect cuts. The idea is to adjust the
Next youll check the saw blade for
alignment. This is simple. Just mark
a tooth on the blades back side, then
guide tubes 90 to the material rest. rotate the saw blade forward until the
First, you need to clamp a block of same tooth aligns with the plywood edge
scrap to the carriage (Step 1). Next, again (Step 3). If there is a gap between
place a sheet of plywood (with a factory the plywood edge and the marked tooth,
square corner) on the material rest so the saw requires further adjustment.
one edge extends into the cutting trough. To make this adjustment, loosen the
Now slide the carriage along the guides, threaded knobs on each side of the insert
checking carefully for gaps. and pivot the saw. Test the adjustment
If there are gaps, youll need to adjust by rotating the blade and watching the
the guide tubes (Step 2). This is done marked tooth again (Step 4). Repeat
easily by first loosening the conduit until the marked tooth aligns with the
straps. Then place a 6"-long scrap block plywood edge. Just be sure to tighten the
between them to keep them parallel. knobs once the saw is aligned.

NOTE:
SLOTS IN STRAPS ALLOW TUBES
TO MOVE SIDE TO SIDE

CUT
BLOCK BLOCK
TO FIT
BETWEEN
GUIDE
TUBES

FACTORY EDGE
OF PLYWOOD

First, clamp a short scrap block to the carriage to align the Then, to adjust the guide tubes, first loosen the top or bottom
1 guide tubes. (This is the same scrap block you used earlier.) 2 conduit straps. Then tap the tubes into position. The slots in
Then push a sheet of plywood against the edge of the block, and the conduit straps make this easy. Cut a block to fit between the
slide the carriage up and down to check for a gap. tubes to keep them parallel while theyre adjusted.

NOTE: SECOND:
UNPLUG SAW PIVOT SAW
BEFORE
MARKING FIRST:
TOOTH LOOSEN KNOBS
MARK TOOTH
WITH FELT
TIP PEN

ROTATE BLADE SO
MARKED TOOTH
IS IN FRONT

The next step is to check the alignment of the saw blade. This If the distance between the marked tooth and the plywood
3 is a rather simple process. Just mark a tooth on the blades 4 edge varies, the saw needs to be adjusted. First you need to
back side. Then rotate the blade forward until the marked tooth loosen the knobs that hold the saw to the insert. Then pivot the
aligns with the plywood edge again. saw to align the blade.

From ShopNotes magazine page 9 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company

www.ShopNotes.com All rights reserved
 TECHNIQUE . . . . Using the Panel Saw
T he Panel Saw is not only capable of
crosscutting, its great at ripping
large sheet goods as well. To do this,
the carriage needs to be locked in place,
then the workpiece is pushed through
the blade (see photo at right). Setting
up the saw for ripping from crosscutting
only requires a few simple steps.
First, mount the saw in the carriage
so the blade is perpendicular to the guide
tubes (refer to Fig. 2).
1 2
SQUARE U-BOLT
WITH STRAP
LOCK
NUT
TIGHTEN
T-KNOB TO
LOCK CARRIAGE
Once you have the saw in position, it
needs to be locked into place. This is done
by tightening the T-knob on the U-bolt.
STORAGE
Even though the Panel Saw is a large
shop-built tool, I designed it so its easy to
move and store. To do this, the back sup-
port can be folded up flat into the back
of the bed when youre finished cutting
(see photo at right).
When its folded up, the saw lifts off
the rear foot and the two edge rails and
1 2
EDGE RAIL
CASTER RESTS ON GROUND
WHEN BED IS VERTICAL
The casters on the bottom rails support
the bed when the back support is folded
up and the Panel Saw is placed in a vertical
position. This helps to move the saw.
From ShopNotes magazine
www.ShopNotes.com
Note: For a straight cut, its impor-
tant that the blade is perfectly aligned.
If youre unsure of the alignment of the
Some older circular saws arent
equipped with lock switches. If your
saw doesnt have a lock switch, just use
carriage, guide tubes, or saw blade, see a spring clamp to hold down the trigger
the Setup article on the previous page. switch during a cut (Fig. 2).
Then slide the carriage to the desired
position and lock it in place. (You should
be able to line the cut up by positioning
the plywood next to the saw blade.) Then,
just tighten the T-knob against the strap
on the square U-bolt (Fig. 1).
SPRING
CLAMP
You will need to push the panel through,
so use the saws lock switch. If there's no
lock, place a clamp on the trigger switch.
rests on the casters (Fig. 1). Then you storing the saw, lock the braces in place
can roll the saw to another place in the by rotating the turnbuttons that are
shop, push it out to the driveway, or store located on the center rails (Fig. 2).
it flat against a wall and out of the way.
The 3/4"-thick hardwood turnbuttons
are the key to moving and storing the
Panel Saw. To hold the back support
in an upright position when moving or
BRACE
TURN-
BUTTON
The turnbuttons on the center rails make
it easy to lock the back support in an
upright position for storage. Just twist
them to lock the support in place.
page 10 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company
All rights reserved
 Add a base for a router and you can rout grooves and dadoes exactly where you want in either
sheet goods or large glued-up panels. A bracket locks tight to the guide tube for stopped cuts.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES:

The router base consists of a hardboard

insert with a pair of cleats that allow the
base to be locked into the carriage (L).
Hardwood spacers position the router
and the insert in the carriage so the bit
can reach the workpiece.
To build it, start by cutting the router
insert (V) from 1/4" hardboard. Its sized
to fit down through the inside edge of the
rabbet in the carriage base (Fig. 1).
Next, drill a centered hole in the insert
for the router bit. Use the manufactur-
ers base to lay out and add countersunk
shank holes for mounting the router.
Now cut the insert cleats (W) to size
from 1/4" hardboard. The cleats become
the lip that fits into the recess in the car-
riage (L).(Be sure to sand a small radius ROUTER CARRIAGE
on the corners of the cleats so they fit
snug in the carriage base.)
To complete the base, cut a pair of 3/4"-
thick hardwood spacers (X). Then the out and drill a 11/2"-dia. hole centered on MATERIALS LIST
cleat and insert are glued and screwed the width of the blank, and two shank
to the spacers (Figs. 1a and 1b). holes on each side of the center hole NEW PARTS
V Router Insert (1) 1/ hdbd. - 7 x 10
So that I could rout stopped grooves and (Fig. 2). These shank holes are for the 4
W Insert Cleats (2) 1/ hdbd. - 23/ x 73/
4 8 4
dadoes, I also made an adjustable stop. carriage bolts used to clamp the brackets X Insert Spacers (2) 3/ x 11/ - 7
4 2
The stop is just a couple of hardwood around the guide tube. Y Stop Brackets (2) 3/ x 1 - 3
4
brackets (Y) with openings that fit around Finally, rip the blank in half lengthwise
the 11/2"-dia. guide tube (Fig. 2). and cut the brackets to finished length. HARDWARE SUPPLIES
These brackets are small pieces, so Note: To create a tight grip, the gap (8) No. 8 x 3/4" Fh woodscrews
start by ripping an extra-long blank to thats cut away by the blade kerf leaves (2) 5/16" x 21/2" carriage bolts
(2) 5/16" I.D. star knobs w/ washers
rough width (21/8") from a piece of 3/4"- a half-circle that will be slightly smaller
thick stock. Now take the blank and lay than the outside of the guide tube.

INSERT CLEAT (!/4" HARDBOARD)

1 2
W a. !/4 W %/16" I.D.
STAR KNOB
W/ WASHER
!/4 NOTE: RIP
BRACKETS
2#/8 FROM OVER-
X SIZE STOCK
V 1!/2 BEFORE #/8
X CL
ROUTER V CUTTING TO
INSERT INSERT LENGTH Y
(!/4" HARDBOARD) SPACER
(#/4"-THICK %/16"
STOCK) 10 SHANK #/4" R.
b. 1#/8 HOLE
1 !/16
7
1#/8 W
#/8 Y
7#/4 STOP
1 3 BRACKET
#/4
#8 x #/4"
Fh SCREW %/16" x 2!/2"
CARRIAGE
1 BOLT

From ShopNotes magazine page 11 of 11 2007 August Home Publishing Company

www.ShopNotes.com All rights reserved