I have a Laden C1008 dishwasher whose wash programs work properly but no longer

heats the water. No fault or alarm code indicated, just cold and dirty dishes with
an unmelted tablet at the end of the cycle.
I immediately turned to the heating resistance (heating tunnel on this model) on
which I controlled several points:

- its resistance value to the ohmmeter is 27ohms => OK

- with the LV on, the resistance is well fed

The model of the heating tunnel is as follows:

"Http://www.pieces-tout-electromenager.com/description.php?id=551&path=102"

I really want to change this resistance but what pains me is that apart from the
ground wire, I have 2 white wires that arrive on the same connector on the
resistance in question. And I measure 2 different voltages: 230V on one, about 50V
on the other. Strange that 50V ... on no forum I did not hear about this voltage
value. Would this be a special voltage for the safety thermostat? On this model,
the thermostat (klixon) is integrated directly on the resistance from what I could
read.
I have disassembled the electronic control board, I do not see any component HS or
solder blackened.
What do you recommend that I do ?
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If you have 27 ohms on the resistance that means it's good.
What I do not understand is the voltage meter you find on the wires.220v 50v ??
How many wires do you get to pump 2 or 4?
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Are you on the water level in your dishwasher ??? because your resistance is good
so no need to change it, you say yourself that the current comes to this
resistance! so the problem does not come from there .... I would look more for a
water level problem! besides it is for this reason that the pellet does not
dissolve !!!

a resistance that is good and that is fed ..... must heat.or a measurement is wrong
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Good morning and thank you for your answers.

I redo the ohmic measurement directly on the connector of the control card, I
confirm the 27ohms.
I also redid the tension measurements. I have 3 sons coming on the resistance:
- 1 ground wire (yellow and black)
- 2 white wires coming from the control board.
The voltage measurement is as follows, directly on the connectors of the resistor:
potential between mass and white wire 1: 242V ~
potential between mass and white wire 2: 57V ~
- potential between the 2 white wires: 50V ~
I specify, all measured at the ohmmeter in alternating current position. I hope the
voltage of 57V ~ is not a DC voltage actually ...
It is this voltage of 57V that seems suspicious. Should not it be 0V or 242V? It
feels the problem on the control card finally ...: - /

Then even if the ohmic value of the resistance is good and if the voltage that
arrives there is correct, could it not come from a security circuit internal to the
resistance which would cut the internal supply of this one?
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Hello

It should be known that a resistance is controlled alone, disconnected from all

parasitic circuits.

A voltage-supplied resistor is only controlled on its supply leads (white in this

case)
If you have 50v power supply, you have to check what supplies this resistance;
relay or triac. See if you do not have a dry solder.

Failed and dull, I just grilled my electronic control card. I redid the welds
around the relay supplying resistance: no improvement. For test purposes, I wanted
to directly feed the resistance without going through the relay, I had to plant in
the choice of the mass because it has all grilled. Poor to debug without electric
map map :-(
I played, I lost.

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Hello,
resistance and wiring are ok.by it is not powered, no voltage between white
wires.the phase arrives (240v with the mass) but the neutral no (you should have 0
instead of 50v with the mass) .the neutral loop is made on and by the card. control
the relay especially its welds. It is also necessary to check the presence detector
of water located in the bowl (see in under spare parts / water detector). you can
see a black grid after removing the filters on the right side, clean it or better
take it out.access from below ,.