FEATURE PROJEC T

Router Table

Build the cabinet (above) or the open fram e

(left), then add the top and fence . Or build th e
adjustable fence to fit your own router table.
ver the years I' ve kept. a list of all th e section included with this issue . Or, you can opt for
features I wanted on a router table . the easy-to-build open frame (plans on next page) .
This new table is designed with those fea - THE TOP. As for the top, I thought three features
tures, but also w ith flexibility so you can use were essential. First:, T wanted an insert plate t o
only the parts you want - the new ope n hold the router. This way , the muter can he lifted
base or the cabinet, the new top with an insert plate , out of the top to change bits, or reran ved completel y
or the fence with a T-slot . Ihr accessories . for free-hand routing . I also wanted a heavy up p (t o
THE BASE . We started out building an enclose d dampen vibration), and a miter slot .
base cabinet that has everything . . . bit storage u n FENCE . If you don 't build any other part of thi s
the doors, a removable sawdust bin, an accessor y router table, consoler building the fence . TI has a
storage area, and the best feature, it's quiet (th e 'I'-:;lot on the face that's designed to accept a va.riet . y
enclosed cabinet dampens most of the router noise . ) of accessories (refer to pages 2(i and 27) . And the
The plans for this cabinet are in the special pul I-out clamping system is designed to attach to any table .

n The rooter is mounted to a remov- A The fence has a T-s!ot for attaching n A channel can be routed to accep t
able insert plate so it can be lifted ou t various accessories, and sliding faces your miter gauge . This is particularly
for changing bits or free-hand routing . allow for different sized router bits . handy for routing the ends of boards .

I(i SllopNotys No . 1
 FEATURE PROJEC T

Open-Frame Base
EXPLODED VIE W `a HARDWOO D
DOWEL
te-.,
~ 21,.

"
14 x31/4 "
LAG BOLT
20 /2 "

LE G
PIECES

21 .,

36"
CUT
DADOES
TO FIT
RAIL S
NOTE :
RIP ALL 2x 4
/// STOCK, 3" WID E

CUTONGDETAIL

OPEN-FRAME BAS E
This open-frame base is sturdy
and easy to build . The entire bas e
is built out of 2x-I 's. But before
started, I cleaned them up a littl e
by ripping 1/4" off both edges, re-
ducing the width to 3" . see Gut-
ting Detail above .
END FRAMES . The base has
two end frames that consist. al'
two legs and two rails.
THE LEGS . Each leg is made
from two 2x4's cut to length an d
then sandwiched together-, se e
Exploded View . To provide mor-
tises for the rails, I pm-cut wid e
dadoes in each leg piece before glu -
ing them together. (This simplified
the joiro r'v . )
ASSEMBLY. After the dadoe s
are cut in the leg pieces, glue th e
legs and rails together to com-
plete the end frames, see Fig . 1 .
STRETCHERS . Next, the end
frames are joined together with
three suet' hers (Note: To pro-
vide access to the router, there
isn't a top stretcher between the
front legs. )
The stretchers are fastened to
the frames with lag bolts . But
since the bolts are threaded into
end grain, there's a trick t o
strengthening this ,joint.
I drilled a hole near the end o f
the stretcher ari d. glued in dowel s
before screwing in the lag bolts ,
see Fig. 2.

You can pm rid e

extra holding
power when.
SC)C'2C:212Q' i-nto
end grain. by in-
sert eg a dowel.
TJk dowel pro-
vides cross-grai n
.strength .

No . 1 ShopNotes 17
 FEATURE PROJEC T

he heart of t .his router tabl e
T is the top . It has three im-
portant features, the removabl e
insert plate, the miter gauge slot .
and its weight.
REMOVABLE INSERT. The in-
sert plate is a piece of W -thic k
phenolic plastic (you could also
use Masonite) that fits in a
recessed opening in the ii .hle.
The idea is to screw the router
to the bottom of the plate . The n
you can simply lift the router out
of the table to change
bit s, or to do freehand routing .
TECHNIQUE . The only tricky
part to adding an insert plate t o
the top is routing out. the recess .
It has to fit exactly. (The tech
nique we used is to rout th e
recess with a pattern bit in a
router, refer to pages 20 and 2] ..)
TOP CONSTRUCTIO N
The top consists of a core of ply
wood and Masonite, edged with
hardwood, and covered with For -
mica on both sides .
THE CORE . The core of th e
router table top is a sandwich o f
two layers of Masonite glued o n
top of a %1 " plywood base . Th e
idea here is to make a heavy to p
(to dampen vibration) . Also ,
when the recess (for the insert .
plate) i .nci the miter gauge slo t
are routed irr the surface of th e
cop, the two layers of Masonit e
provide smooth, hard edges .

A fiae (1) 3/4,Plyx2P/2x2& P

B Masonite (2) '/4x22rgi .x29rgh .
C Side Edging (2) 3/4x114x21 1/2
P Ft ./0k, Edging (2) 3/qx IV4x3O
E Laminate (2) 23?'V2 rgh . x 31 1/2 rgh .
F insert Mate (1)" /1 4 x 73/4 x 113/4
* insert made from phenolic
piastkc or Masonite.

18 ShopNotes No . 3


FEATURE PROJEC T

I began making the core sec-

tion by cutting a base (A) to siz e
from 3/4 " plywood, see Fig . 1 .
Design Note : After the edgin g
is installed, the finished dime n
si g ns of the top will be 23" x 30" .
MASONITE PIECES . After the
plywood is cut to size, the nex t
step is Lo cut two pieces of I/t " -
thick smote (13) and glue the m
on top of the plywood base with
contact cement . NOTE :
The trick here is getting th e
EAS E
edges of the Masonite to alig n 3. /4" -THIC K
with the plywood . PLYWOO D

TRIM FLUSH . To solve thi s

problem, T cut the Masonit e
pieces slightly larger than th e
plywood . Then I routed the edge s
of the Masonite flush with th e
edges of the plywood by using a
flush trim hit.. see Fig . la.
Shop Note : I used a flush trim
bit with a bearing on the top .
refer to Fig . 1-a. It's also the bit I
used to rout the recess for th e
insert plate and the miter gaug e
slot . refer to pages 20 and 21 .
EDGING. After routing th e
edges of t:he Msasrrriite., this whol e e-
CORNE R
b
core section is then edged with DETAI L
hardwood . I used `3/4 "-thick mapl e
edging (C, D) . OL TT O
L -
MATC H
First, rip the edging to matc h f THICKNES S
the thickness of the top . Then cut OF TO I '
FILE OR SAN D
it to length, see Fig. 2 . --EDGING
RADIUS ON EAC:I CORNE R

Now, glue and clamp the edg-

ing pieces flush with the edges of
the top, see Fig . 2a. 3
SOFTEN CORNERS . When th e
30"
glue is dry, sand or file a radius o n
each corner, see Fig. 2b.
LAMINATE, The last step is t o
glue Formica lanwrate (E) t o
both sides of the core .
Design Note : To prevent on e
side of the top from expanding
and contracting differently tha n
the other, it ' s important to glu e
laminate to both sides, see Fig . 3 .
Here again, I cut the laminat e
oversize, then trimmed it . . . bu t
this time with a chamfer hit to
chamfer the edge of the top at th e
same time . see Fig. 3a.

No. 1 ShopNotes 19


FEATURE PROJEC T

Insert Plate
After completing the top, the
next step is to make the rerov a
4 2" INSFRT . PLATE

IN "
- -
T DRILL t" DIA .
ble insert plate . T used a piece o f - FINGER HOLE S

1t4'- .thick phenolic plastic, but. 1/4 " CHAMFER - /-

ALL EDGES
l\iasonite will also work . 13a
CROS S
CENTE R
THE INSERT PLATE . 1"irSt, cut DRTLL AN D HOL E SECTIO N
the m mrsert plate (F) to its finished COUNTERSIN K - R'
7' '.4 '
MOUNTIN G
size, see Fig . 4 . (. l you plan to use HOLES TO
INSER T
PLATE
a large router, make the plate MATC H SAND OR FIL E
'" liRPIL15
Irf

ROUTER SASE ROU T

about 1 wider than the handles CHAMFE R
on the router, see page :f 1 1 ON AL L
EDGES )
-. 11'344''
After cutting the plate to size , -

use the base from your router a s

a template to locate and drill SECON 1

mounting holes and the cente r D;A. HDf .E.

hole in the insert . Also drill tw o IN EAC H
CORNER
finger holes in the plate, see Fig . 4 .
Next, sand or file a radiu s
on the corners of the insert. (This
equals the radius of the patter n
hit used to rout the recess, later . )
THIF. P
Finally, chamfer all the edges, se e CU I
FERST:~ -
Fig. 4a. POSIFION INSERT
.. . OPENIN G
DRAW - - . WITH SAS R E
F" FROM FRON T
LAYOUT OPENING . After th e OUTLINES S AIt
i
EDGE OF TABL E
insert plate is complete, 1 used it FROM OUTLINE k"

as a template for laying out th e

ope ning in the top . Position th e the cut lines . Then use a sabr e place the plate over the openin g

plate 6 " from the front edge of th e saw to cut out the opening . so it aligns with the outline pre-

top so its centered side-to , sitle, T14E LIP. The next. step is t o viously drawn on the top .

and. trace around it, see Fig . . rout, the lip for the insert: plate t o Now place guide strips aroun d

Now the problem is to rout a
recess that has a lip around it t o
hold up the plate.
So, draw cut lines for the li p
in from the outline, see Fig . 6 .
Nov, drill a hole in each corner of
sit on. The secret to getting the
outline of the lip to perfectly
match the plate is to use the plate
itself as a set-up guide for posi-
tioning the guide strips .
GUIDE S'I'1UPS . To do this .
the insert plate, see Fig . 7 . Thes e
strips ik ill guide a pattern bit I n
rout he lipped recess.
The pattern hit 1 used has cut
ter length of 1". So, to provide a
surface for the hearing to rid e

Cultic strips
are r.r..srrl, t o

1"r] it t Cl. 1'e . eSS

ft top
fr y /..

that's exactly
the .site q f the
insert plate .

40

20 ShopNotes No . 1


FEATURE PROJEC T

against, the guide strips need to
0 be 1' thick, see Fig. 7 .
The strips should be 3" wide to
support the router. And two o f
the strips should long enough to
match the width of the top .
(They're used later for routin g
the miter slot, refer to Fig . 10 .)
After sticking the guide strip s
down with double-sided carpet
tape, lift the insert plate out .
DEPTH OF CUT. Before routin g
the lip you need to set the bit
depth to match the exact thick-
ness of the insert plate .
To do this, mount the patter n
bit in the .router: Then place th e
insert plate on top of a guide strip ,
see Fig. 8. Set the muter on top o f
the insert plate and lower the bi t
until it barely touches the top .
Remove the insert plate and n Using a pattern bit in a router is a quick
rout out the recess lip, see Fig . 9, way to rout the recessed tip to the top . Th e
To improve the air flow to the bearing on the pattern bit rides agains t
router, rout a chamfer on the bot- guide strips and cuts a recess exactly th e
tom of the opening, see Fig . Da . same size as the insert plate.

Miter Gauge 5!ot

After completing the recess lip
for the insert plate, there's only
one thing left to do on the top -
rout the miter gauge slot .
GUIDE STRIPS . ti sing double -
sided carpet tape, position one of '
the guide strips 4" from the fron t
edge of the top . This will form the
inside edge of the miter gaug e
slot, see Fig . 10a.
Now to position the other
guide strip, hold the miter gaug e
snugly between the two strips ,
see Fig . 10 .
ROUT THE SLOT. To set the
depth of the pattern bit to rout
the slot, use a procedure simila r
to that shown in Figs . 8 and 9 .
Place the miter gauge liar o n
top of the guide strip, and the
router on top of the bar. Then
lower the bit to barely touch th e
table top . Now remove the miter
gauge and rout the slot, see Fig . 11 .

MITER. OAIJGE - --,

1
MITER
GAUGE
a.
SET I wPTH . . :. DA R
OF CUT TO MATCH .. .. GUID E
MJTER .GAdJG.E BAR . 5TR1FS

No . 1 ior-1Nutes 21


FEATURE PROJEC T

Router Table Fence

hether you build an y to accept so you can adjust the opening t o

Wother part of this route r
table, the fence is worth lookin g
at. It has three unique feat, arcs -
a T--slot for accessories, a pair of
sliding faces, and a special clamp-
ing system.
T-SLOT. The T .slot is designed
T-shaped nuts
that slide in and let you add a
variety of accessories, including a
guard, and a featherboard. (For
more on this, see page 26 .)
SLIDING FACES. The faces on
the front of the fence slide open
fit the router bit you 're using.
CLAMPING SYSTEM . The fenc e
is also designed to xcl .apct. to an y
table (even one you already own) .
The built-in clamp heads on eac h
end (that secure the fence to th e
table) can easily he adapted t o
almost any table top .
BUILDING THE FENCE

The fence is made up of four sec -

tions . The split base (A) serves as
a platform for adding the top ba r
(with the T-slot) . the
sliding faces, and th e
clamp heads .
13A5E f li e base is eventually cut i n
half to fit around the router bit ,
n- _- refer to the Exploded View . But
fF" -
it starts out as a long strip that
consists of two pieces . a bottom
piece, and a lop piece with four
dodoes cut in it, see Fig. 1 .
The idea is to sandwich these
two pieces together to form a
base with four slots . (Knobs pas s
through the slots to hold the slid-
ing faces in place, refer to Ex-
ploded View.)
To determine the length o f
these base pieces, measure th e
length of the router table to p
(=30") and add li" .This allowst3 " on
each end for the clamp heads .
After the two base pieces ar e
cut to length, cut dadoes (slots) i n
the top piece . Spacing the dadoes
equally from the ends, see Fig . 1 .

ShopNotes No . 1

ASSEMBLY Now glue the tw o
base pieces together . Since glue d
surfaces tend to slide as they 're
clamped together, I used a simpl e
technique to keep them aligned .
First, align the edges of bot h
pieties and dry-clamp them to-
gether. Then screw the pieces to-
gether with a couple of woo d
screws, see Fig . 1 .
Now remove the clamps, apply
glue, and screw the pieces back
together. The screws will auto-
matically realign the pieces an d
keep them from sliding as th e
clamps are tightened .
SLIDING FACE S
Later, the base will he cut into
two sections (to create an open-
ing for the router ) . But fo r
now leave it as one piece and ad d
the sliding faces !Mi .
Each sliding face is one half th e
length of the base (1$") . And th e
width {height) of each face is t o, '
/1
less than the height of the base,
0 see Fig. 2 . This creates clearance
so the sliding faces won't bind
against the top bar.
To allow the slitting faces (B) to
0 the control arm, press the insert down int o
No . I
FEATURE PROJEC T
5L1D[NG T ACF5
EACH FACT IS ONE HALF
THE LENGTH OF THE 6,,,5E
r3/a'
SASE
-t-j. '
CHAMEEK ISOTTO M
r
--EDGE FOR 6u5 RELIE F
get as close as possible to th e
router hit, I be\ eled one end o f
each piece . I also routed a smal l
chamfer along the bottom edge o f
both faces . This eharnt'er serve s
as a relief for sawdust, see Fig . 2 .
THREADED INSERTS. The slid-
ing faces are almost complete -
all that's left is to install the
threaded inserts .
The emblem is making sure
the threaded insert : align with
the slots in the base . To do this ,
hold the sliding faces in the close d
position and flush to the botto m
Shc lrNotes
-EAS E
It
451' 5RVFL ON ON E
.._,--L-ND OF EACH
FAC E
/e
'
of the base. Then use an awl to
scribe the position of the slots o n
the back of the faces . sec Fig . 3.
With the slots located, you ca n
drill holes for the threaded in-
serts . Center the holes between
the scribed lines and near the en d
of each slot closest to the bevel ,
see Fig. 4 .
Note : The hole needed for mos t
.'/16 ' I .D. threaded inserts is k" -
deep . Br careful not. to drill too
deep, see Fig. 4a.
Finally, install the threaded in-
serts in the faces, see box below.
I use my drill press to install threaded in-
serts, straight and square into the workpiece .
Start by sawing off the head of a bolt tha t
fit* the insert . Then thread two nuts and th e
insert on the end of this bolt, and tighten th e
nuts against the insert .
Now, mount the bolt in the chuck, awl usin g
the hole while rotating the chuck by howl,
2l

Top f3ar -~
The base of the fence is just a
platform for adding the Lop bar
(and tin- clamps) . The top bar ((';
has a `l'-slot which is actually a
system for adding-all the accesso -
ries shown on pages 2(i and 27 .
MAKE THE BAR. The first step
is to cut two pieces to size to mak e
the bar, see Fig . 5 The length o f
each piece is the same length a s
the base (A) (3G"] . And the widt h
RC each piece ( 2 1/2") equals th e
width of the base . plus the slidin g
face (B) pieces, refer to Fig, (;a.
CUT THE SLOT. After cuttin g
the pieces to size, the next step i s
to make the T- :lot.. Cutting the
T-slot is a two-step operation .
Start by cutting a '!/8" b y
groove in the face of each piece ,
see Step 1 in Fig . 5 .
Then turn each piece on edg e
and trim 1/4 " off the end of th e
"tongue" formed by the groove ,
see Step 2 In Fig . J.
GLUE-UR. By gluing these two
pieces together, a T-slot is formed
in the top bar, see Fig. 6a.
24
FEATURE PROJEC T
T-SLOT IN EACH PIECE
Here again I used the screw
and glue technique (mentione d
un the previous page) t.o glu e
these pieces together. To keep
the heads of the screws fro m
showing, screw them in from the
bottom face of the top bar.
ShopNotr s
f! _
COONrI.-LRS :NK BorrOM o f
:- .HANK Hf7l-r
S
SCREW
NOTE : ALIGNMEN T
CUT HALF OF THE SCREWS FRO M
SUTTOM FAC E
OE TOP BA R
GLUE TOP BAR TO BASE . Th e
next step is to glue the Cal~ bar (C )
to the base (A) .
To help align the pieces, tern
porarily attach Lhe sliding fac e
pieces (B) to the base (A) wit h
knobs (or bolts), see Fig . Ga .
S
Then, to make sure that the to p
bar and t he base are flush an d
square . clamp them together (n o
glue yet) on a flat, surface (T use d
my saw table), see Fig . G.
Once again, use the screw an d
glue technique . this time scre w
ing Crum Lhe bottom of the bas e
into the top bar.
After the glue has dried, re -
Inove the screws and the sliding
face pieces you temporarily at-
tached to the base .
BIT OPE_%ING . . Now that the
base is attached to the top bar,
the next step is to cut an openin g
for the router hit .
The opening is 4" wide . and
centered on the length of th e
fence, see Fig. 7.
I cut the opening on the tabl e
S
saw by setting a dado blad e
:lightly less than the height of th e
base, see Fig . 7a. Then [ mad e
repeated passes to waste out th e
stock for the bit opening.
No . 1.

Clamp System
0 The fence is almost complete, al l
that's leFt . is (lie clamp system .
CLAMP SYSTEM . What make s
this claxnp sysl .ern work is a Car -
riage bolt that passes through th e
clamp head and up through th e
fence . By tightening a knob (or
wing nut) on the bolt, the clam p
head pinches against the botto m
of the table top, holding the fenc e
in place, see Fig. tin.
THE CLAMP HEM) . Each
clamp head consist~ of tw o
pieces - a spacer' that's slightl y
thinner than the top, and an (ter n
that extends under the table top .
The clamp heads are "hinged "
to the fence with Masonit e
splines, see Fig . 8 . The and . re-
quirement is to cut matchin g
kerfs in the spacer and the fence .
To cut these kerfs safely, I
glued the spacers to a long arm
blank first . (Later. I cut the arm
blank in half to make two clam p
heads, see Fig. 9.)
ARM BANK . To make the arm
blank (U), cut an 8"-long blank to
9 kerfs in the bottom of the fence ,
REVEL EN D
0 to align in these two pieces is to
No . 1
FEATURE PROJEC T
the same width as the route r
fence base (A) (13/ 4 "), see Fig. 9 .
SPACERS. Next, determine th e
thickness of the spacers (E) by
measuring the thickness of you r
router' table top . Then, for clear--
arice, sv!.lhtcact IA " . (This creates a
space so the assn L'an pinch agains t
the table top, see Fig . pia.)
To determine the length of th e
spacers, center the fence from
ShopNotes
side-to-side on the table top .
Then measure the amount of
overhang on each side (3") and
subtract r/t;" for clearance (2 74;") .
Now cut two spacers (E) t .n
these dimensions. and glue them
to the arm blank (I]), see Fig . 9.
SPLINE HINGES . The next step
is to cut kerfS for the 3/,. " Masonit e
splines, see Fig. 9.
To align t he pieces, use the ri p
fence on the table saw to positio n
and then, without changing th e
set-up, cut kerfs in the spacers .
Now. cut Masonite splines 1/s '
wider than the combined (lei }I h of
the kerfs (r/4 ") . And finally, befor e
cutting the blank in half. I cu t
bevels on the ends (for . appear-
anee), see Fig. 9 .
CARRIAGE BOLTS . These
clamp heads are attached to th e
fence with carriage bolts .
The easiest way to get the hole s
Fasten the clamp heads to the
fence with carpet tape, and drill
through both pieces, see Fig . 10 .
ShopTip : If your drill bit isn' t
long enough, drill as fax as yo u
can. remove the clamp heads an d
complete the hole . see Fig. I10a .
fLNIISH . Before assemblin g
the fence, I applied two coats o f
tung oil finish to keep the woo d
parts from getting soiled .
23


FEATURE PROJEC T

Fence Accessories
Router Ott Guard
n For safety . you should includ e
a bit guard on the router table .
This one is designed to attach t o
the fence with T-nuts an d
threaded knobs .
The guard is made of tw o
pieces : a l " -thick hardwood hac k
piece, and a Plexiglas shield.
To make the guard. first cut th e
back to size, and cut two z" slot s
for adjusting the height .
The shield is cut from 1/= " - thick
Plexiglas . and screwed to the
back . This whole assenthly i s
simply attached to the fence wit h
threaded knobs, see Fig. 2.

T-SLOT - -
Hu T

r} RAP]U 5

1/2" -THIC K 31/2 'I

STOCK

NA . --"a-k.,D
HOLE

HEIGI I T
AO,JUSTMEN T
SLOT

r KA2]iU5
" /`
COuNrErSIN S
!%+i ' -THICK
PLEMOL A s SHANK HOLE
SHIL I C

Guard for Freehand Routing

n When you want to do freehan d
routing, you need a guard that.
extends out from the fence . Thi s
one is made from a single piece o f
1/4"-thick Plexiglas. see Fig. 1 .
To stabilize the guard, two set s
of notches are cut. Two straight
notches are cut on the back edge .
And two 45 notches are cut i n
the sides, see Fig . 1 .
To install the guard, turn th e
fence over and pinch the sliding
faces against the guard, see Fig .
2. Then install the screws.
To remove the guard, simpl y
open the faces and pull it out .

2
hrt _ . 10" .-
I~ 23a "
SLOTS FOR
MOUNTING 1 r
/2 '
SCREWS- ~ ._ 1 ,,z,r- -^ . -

2"

-- . . . --- -~ : -- /S '

- NOTCH FO R
45 - SLIDING FACES O F
F.OIJTEKTASLE FENC E

26 ShopNoteS No . 1


FEATURE PROJEC T

Feathethoard
n A featherhoard is helpful for
keeping boards tight against th e
table for a consistent cut .
To make this one, cut a work -
piece from 1/2-thick stock with
both ends cut at 3tY, see Fig . I .
THE FINGERS . To cut the fin -
gees, attach a tall auxiliary fence 9 t2"-THICK STOC K
to your miter gauge, see Fig, 2 .
Now, tilt the table saw blade to
:Wand raise it to make a I t/A "
high out, see Fig . 2a .
Once the blade height is set ,
make 17 equally spaced cuts . ('Phi s
leaves 18 fingers . )
CUT THE SLOTS. The last ste p
is to make two slots for attachin g
the featherboard to the fence . To
make the slots, drill 34 " holes ,
2 2/4 " up from the bottom edge o f
the featherboard . Then, cut out
the slots with a sabre saw or ha rrcl
saw, see Fig . 3 .

2 3

Vacuum Attachment
to your shop-vac, see photo .
To build the attachment, cut tw o
triangular-shalaet l .~ fif e p re 'ex from
112 ' -thick stock . see Fig . 1 .
TOP PLATE . Next, make a fac e
Mate from 1/t " Masonite . It's 5 "
wide and beveled on the top an d
bottom edges to match the side
pieces, see Fig . 2 . (This allows the
n Here 's an easy-to-build dust attachment to fit tight agains t
collection s\stem that screws to the fence and the table . )
the hack of the fence (over the HOLE SIZE . Nov, drill a hole i n
router bit opening) and connects the face plate so your vacuu m
hose will fit snug. see Fig_ 2 . f flu e
the pieces together and the n
Screw the at .tarhmnen [ . to the bac k
of the fence .
PROBLEM. As you're driving i n
the screws, the bottom q f th e
vacuum attachment is force d
down and tends to lift the fence .
To get around this, put . pennie s
under the sick, pieces befor e
starting the screws, After they'r e
St. e t ed. remove the pennies an d
finish tightening the screws .

No . 1 ShopNczl :es