Prosthetic Transfers

By Todd Debreceni

Published in TD&T, Vol. 46 No. 4 (Fall 2010)

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 By Todd DebrecenI

un shot wounds, stab wounds, lacerations,

scars, bites, burns, stitched wounds, scratch-
es, skin conditions, and ulcers are common
three-dimensional makeup effects. A rela-
tively new technique for creating them which
can be easily transferred to the actor’s skin
was developed by Academy Award winning makeup artist, Chris-
tien Tinsley. The possibilities and applications are almost end-
less and the technique is being widely adopted in the makeup
effects world. For the HBO movie Grey Gardens, for instance,
Oscar winner Bill Corso very effectively used 3D transfers for
age makeup on Drew Barrymore and Jessica Lange. Before I
knew how to make them myself, I used a number of appliances
made for me by Christien for The Enemy God (2007). When I
returned from making that movie, I developed my own varia-
tions for crafting this type of prosthetic appliance.

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 3D transfers have several benefits over more traditional
appliances: they can be applied easily and quickly; the appli-
ance material is translucent; the prosthetic is self-adhesive; the
edges blend beautifully and they stay down all day; the appliance
moves naturally with the skin; coloring and painting is easy; the
transfers accept almost all forms of makeup; they require very
little touch-up during a shoot day or performance; and they are
ideal for use in and around water.
3D transfer appliances are easy to make in
quantities that will last for an entire shoot, or
to just have in your kit for quick special effects.
While 3D transfers are often made using silicone, this
article will deal with a material affectionately called “bondo”
in homage to 3M’s ubiquitous auto body filler product of the
same name. The makeup world’s bondo is made from the
water-based acrylic prosthetic adhesive, Pros-Aide.
Prosthetic transfer applications do have some limita-
tions: they should not be used to cover highly contoured or
curved areas such as full nose or ear; they are rather dif-
ficult to reposition—once the appliance is “touched down”
onto the skin during application, it is stuck; and 3D trans-
fers work best as thin appliances—a quarter-inch or less
in thickness.
Making the transfer appliance
These 3D transfer appliances are nothing more than Pros-Aide
adhesive that has been thickened, frozen, thawed and dried.
That’s the really simple explanation. They are easy to make in
quantities that will last for an entire shoot, or to just have in
your kit for quick special effects.
A Sunbeam stand mixer.
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24 F A L L 2010
You’ll need a few things to create your own 3D transfer
appliance:
• Pros-Aide;
• a stand mixer to thicken the Pros-Aide;
• a flat silicone plate mold of your sculpted appliance;
• a light spray mold release;
• silicone treated acetate;
• a freezer;
• temporary tattoo transfer paper;
• paint to color the appliance.
Before you begin mixing the bondo, you will need a flat
silicone plate mold of your sculpted appliance. You can try
your hand at this, but pre-made molds are readily available. I
even offer them on my own website (www.backporchfx.com).
First, the Pros-Aide needs to be thickened. This can be
accomplished in several ways. I was taught to mix Cab-O-Sil
(fumed silica) into the adhesive until it reaches a usable con-
sistency—not runny, but not overly thick. However, I now think
the best method is to forego additives like Cab-O-Sil and just
thicken the Pros-Aide by reducing its moisture content. If you
decide to use Cab-O-Sil, please note that breathing fumed silica
can cause Silicosis, so wear a respirator.
Thickening the Pros-Aide by constantly stirring it allows the
water to evaporate without solidifying the adhesive. This creates
a softer appliance than if you add thickeners. If you need a really
soft appliance, you can add dibutyl phthalate plasticizer (DBP)
to the Pros-Aide. DBP also needs to be used with care as some
authorities classify it as a human immune system toxicant.
Set the stand mixer on its lowest speed and stir the Pros-
Aide for eight or nine hours or until it reaches the desired con-
sistency. If you whip it you’ll create air bubbles. You can color the
Pros-Aide with flocking, or with a bit of pigment—food coloring,
powder, etc. Do some experimenting on your own; this industry
thrives on innovation and experimentation. I use Createx pure
pigment colors, and Liquitex Artist Acrylics to tint my bondo.
The silicone-coated side
of the acetate can be
determined by making
a small mark on it with
a marker.
In addition to a silicone mold of your transfer appliance,
you’ll also need temporary tattoo transfer paper—available
from several sources, including Alcone, Motion Picture F/X
Company, and Nigel’s Beauty Emporium. You can buy the trans-
fer paper together with silicone treated acetate. The acetate
is treated on only one side. To determine which side, make a
small mark with a permanent marker in an area that won’t be
in contact with the bondo. The silicone treated side will cause
the marker ink to bead up.
Copyright 2010 United States Institute for Theatre Technology, Inc.
Now you’re ready to make the 3D transfer appliance.
• Give the mold a light coating of mold release such as Price Driscoll’s Ultra 4 Epoxy Parfilm first.

• Put some of the bondo into your silicone mold, being careful to avoid creating air bubbles between the mold surface
and the bondo.

• Place a piece of silicone treated acetate over the bondo (silicone treated side to the bondo) and squeegee to remove any
surface air bubbles.

• Put the mold into the freezer—no longer than an hour and a half—until frozen, and then remove the mold. You’ll notice
that the color of the frozen Pros-Aide has changed slightly.
• Carefully remove the frozen appliance from the silicone mold. Peel the mold away from the bondo rather than trying to
peel out a frozen appliance.

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 Above, the dry appliance with flashing removed; top right, ap-
plying Pros-Aide adhesive; right, Pros-Aide appears clear when
dry.
• Allow the appliance to thaw and dry. A great way to dry
bondo transfers is in a fruit dehydrator. Some people
prefer to leave the flashing intact; I remove it while the
appliance is still frozen before placing it in the dryer.
• Once the appliance is thawed and dry, it can be placed
onto the tattoo transfer paper; apply a thin layer of
Pros-Aide to the appliance out to the edge of the
bondo. One nice thing about Pros-Aide (among many
nice things) is that it brushes on white when it’s wet,
but dries completely clear. Make sure the adhesive is
fully dry before placing it on the transfer paper.
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26 F A L L 2010
• The transfer paper is shiny on one side, dull on the other.
When the adhesive on your appliance is dry, press it
face down onto the shiny side of the transfer paper.
• Carefully peel off the acetate. If the edges of the appliance
start to come up with the acetate, press them back
down until they do stick. If they are still sticking to the
acetate, here’s a trick to try. Take a can of Dust-Off or a
similar air-in-a-can product, and turn it upside down,
directing the long thin nozzle tube at the appliance. Be
careful not to freeze yourself! The bondo will instantly
refreeze and you can easily remove the acetate.
Left, appliance placed face-down on the shiny side of the transfer paper;
above, peeling the acetate from the appliance.
Copyright 2010 United States Institute for Theatre Technology, Inc.
 Clockwise, my student, John Cox;
appliance transfered to his skin, ready
for painting; front view of finished 3D
transfer; and close-up side view.

Now you’re ready to apply the transfer appliance.

• The skin should be clean, dry and absent of any oils, hair,
or makeup. Cut the transfer paper close to the edge of
the appliance (or appliances) to make application easier.
Place the transfer appliance onto the skin, face down, and
press firmly. Wet the back of the paper with a moist paper
towel and hold it in place for about thirty seconds.
• Peel off the transfer paper (carefully), and smooth the
transfer gently with some water, and let it dry completely.
If there are any visible edges, they can be blended off with
a small brush or applicator and 99% isopropyl alcohol.
On this application I also blended with a bit of bondo
applied with a piece of makeup sponge to further blend These prosthetics look terrific on stage and on screen,
edges since there were a couple of places where the edges even in HD. Once they’ve been applied and sealed, you can even
had flipped over and stuck together. wear them swimming. When you’re done, they can be removed
• Paint the appliance—I used Premier Products’ Skin with just about any makeup or prosthetic adhesive remover—
Illustrator palettes (alcohol activated). I also added some even with 99% IPA. For the most part, these transfers are for
crepe wool to replace part of the eyebrow and sideburn one-time use only. v
affected by the prosthetic.
• Seal it with a thin layer of Pros-Aide (let it dry first) and then Todd Debreceni is a working makeup effects artist.
powder, and seal with Ben Nye Final Seal, Reel Creations He conducts regular seminars, workshops, and classes,
Blue Aqua Sealer, Graftobian Makeup Setting Spray, internationally and across the U.S., and he is currently
Kryolan Fixier Spray or something similar. There are writing the second edition of his popular book, Special
numerous products to choose from. Makeup Effects for Stage and Screen.

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