ASSIGNMENT SHEET

Mechanical and Workshop Practices

DCS 1205

NAME: _A. Junid__________ TAP: _1509_______

SUBJECT: _Benchwork practices_____________________

1. List down the procedure in performing arc welding and then the safety
precautions needed.

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Safety precautions shall be checked and reviewed first:

1) Check clothing safety:

a) Do not wear synthetics (e.g. rayon, polyester). They are flammable
b) Wool/cotton/leather are preferable
c) Leather apron and leather gloves are mandatory. Both must be dry
d) Ensure clothing free from oil/grease stains. This reduces ignition risk
e) Do not fold/roll sleeves/pants in case hot spatter gets caught in folds
f) Wear your trousers outside your workboots, not tucked in
g) Ensure your boots are insulated or stand on insulation material

2) Check equipment safety:

a) Electrical terminal tightness, especially earthing connections
b) Cable insulation, weld electrode holder insulation, cable sizing
c) Earth fault/RCD protection
d) For genset weld machines, check:
i) No leaks
ii) Enclosure integrity
iii) Fire extinguisher nearby
iv) Cable sizing
v) Earth fault/RCD protection
e) Keep welding leads as short as possible to minimise inductance

3) Check work permit conditions (if applicable), e.g.

a) Confined space ventilation requirements (2000 cfm per welder)
b) Respirator requirements
c) AC welder with reduced voltage control
 4) Workplace conditions:
a) Ensure area is dry
b) Sufficient airflow clearance (22'x22'x22' per welder)
c) Ceiling height not less than 16'

5) Weld shade/screen/viewing mask spec requirements:

Note:
As a rule of thumb, start with a shade that is too dark to see the weld
zone. Then go to a lighter shade which gives sufficient view of the weld
zone without going below the minimum

Pre-energisation check procedure :

1) Check your electrode diameter and weld current settings, e.g. 2.5-
3.2mm, 80-110A. Ensure electrode is connected to +ve, weld object to
-ve.
2) Ensure other people are protected from flashes by closing the curtain
to the welding bay or by erecting screens.
3) Ensure the electrode holder has no electrode in it before turning on the
welding machine.

Operation procedure:

1) Keep hands clear of work piece and away from electrode and ensure
operator does not wrap electrode leads around themselves.
2) Wear leather / insulated gloves. Ensure power is turned off (from
wall socket) before inserting or removing electrodes from electrode
holder/handle. If the electrode holder (stinger) is non-insulated,
make sure you are either holding it or it is insulated from
workpiece before powering-on weld machine.
3) Ensure current is correctly set according to electrode selection.
4) Make sure your weld screen/shield/viewing mask is on before arc
ignites. Never leave the welder running unattended.
5) The arc is started by touching the electrode momentarily against the
work to complete the electrical circuit before raising the electrode to
establish the arc.
6) 'Tap starting' and 'scratch starting' are the two common methods of
starting the arc. Which one to use is a personal preference, and can be
influenced by rod type, condition and weld voltage available
7) Electrode angle, arc length, travel speed and welding motion must be
learnt with practice/certification/qualification
8) Arc welders don't have a button to start the arc. Unlike MIG welders the
rod (electrode) will become live as soon as the machine is switched on
9) The arc is started by touching/scratching the electrode momentarily
against the work to complete the electrical circuit before raising the
electrode to establish the arc. This needs to happen quickly/lightly to
avoid welding the rod to the work
10) Because the rod is live at all times it needs to be kept insulated from
the earth when not in use. A board of wood can be used used to isolate
the rod from the bench. After welding the rod is returned to the piece of
wood:

11) Clearance to maintain the arc during welding is about 1mm. Because
both the weld pool/slag height changes & electrode is consumed, try to
move the electrode holder while maintaining the correct clearance and
10-20º angle. Many experienced welders automatically adjust based
on maintaining a consistent weld crackle sound. A tiny amount of
electrode weave can also be used to maintain a desired gap/arc
12) Don't look closely at the weld while it cools - as the weld contracts tiny
hot pieces of slag can ping off and burn themselves into your eyes.
This is especially true of stainless rods.
13) Slag is lightweight and brittle so can fly a fair distance. Wear eye
protection when chipping.

Post-operation / 5s procedure:

1) Ensure sufficient time for materials to cool before handling.

2) Switch off machine and fume extraction (if relevant).
3) Hang up electrode holder and welding cables.
4) Practice good housekeeping and ensure the area is clean and tidy.

Sources:
https://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/US/EN/literature/E205.pdf
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/arc-tutorial.htm
http://www.labour.gov.hk/text_alternative/pdf/eng/welding3.pdf
http://www.weldinginfocenter.org/health/hs_11.html
 2. List down the procedure in performing oxy-acetylene welding and give
Safety measures needed on doing it.

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Safety precautions should be checked and reviewed first:

1) Check clothing safety:

a) Do not wear synthetics (e.g. rayon, polyester). They are flammable
b) Wool/cotton/leather are preferable
c) Leather apron and leather gloves are mandatory. Both must be dry
d) Ensure clothing free from oil/grease stains. This reduces ignition risk
e) Do not fold/roll sleeves/pants in case hot spatter gets caught in folds
f) Wear your trousers outside your workboots, not tucked in
g) Ensure your boots are insulated or stand on insulation material

2) Check equipment safety:

a) Oxygen cylinders should be stored at least 3m from fuel gas
cylinders or separated by a 30-minute fire resisting barrier
b) Check gas cylinders secured
c) Check no gas lines running through hot or sharp equipment
d) Check high & low gas pressure regulators are working

3) Check work permit conditions (if applicable), e.g.

a) Confined space ventilation requirements (2000 cfm per welder)
b) Respirator requirements

4) Workplace conditions:
a) Ensure area is dry
b) Sufficient airflow clearance (22'x22'x22' per welder)
c) Ceiling height not less than 16'

5) Weld shade/screen/viewing glass spec requirements:

Note:
As a rule of thumb, start with a shade that is too dark to see the weld zone. Then go to a
lighter shade which gives sufficient view of the weld zone without going below the
minimum

Pre-energisation check procedure :

1) Ensure other people are protected from flashes by closing the curtain
to the welding bay or by erecting screens.
2) Ensure the gas cylinders, tubings and ignition systems have
mechanical integrity and protection “Crack” the valve open to prevent
dirt from entering the regulator; open the cylinder valve only when
standing to one side of the cylinder, away from welding or other
sources of ignition

Operation procedure:

1) Never leave the welder running unattended

2) Welding motion must be learnt with practice/certification/qualification.
3) Adjust the torch for a suitable oxygen/acetylene mix and flame. The
flame you’re after is the neutral flame which comes just as the
acetylene feather of the carburizing flame disappears into the inner
cone. The correct intensity is determined by the thickness of the work
and by how rapidly you move the puddle along. Beginners tend to do
better with a lower flame because it allows them to work more slowly.

4) Figures 2, 3 and 4 show how to hold and move the torch. Angle the
flame toward the work with the rod coming in from the opposite
direction. Once the puddle forms, move the torch in circular or
semicircular patterns across the weld as you slowly advance the
puddle. Continue to feed the rod, but don’t force it into the work or it’ll
stick. When things start flowing correctly, you’ll know it’s right.
 Post-operation / 5s procedure:

1) Ensure sufficient time for materials to cool before handling.

2) Switch off machine and fume extraction (if relevant).
3) Hang up electrode holder and welding cables.
4) Practice good housekeeping and ensure the area is clean and tidy.

Source:

http://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/job-knowledge/health-
safety-and-accident-prevention-oxyacetylene-welding-cutting-and-
heating-027/

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm

http://www.rqriley.com/welding-new.html
3. List down the procedure in soldering.

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General procedure:

a) Prepare/heat soldering gun. Ensure it is in a secure stand/holder

b) Clamp soldering objects in desired soldering position

c) Energise solderign iron. Tin the electrode tip

d) Heat contact areas of objects to be soldered

e) If a wire is to be soldered, tin it first

f) A solder joint is made when contact points are fused with a solder joint

g) Safely de-energise and cool down soldering iron when work complete
4. What are the procedures in flaring?

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1) Cut the copper pipe to the length that you need - leave a bit
extra in case you mess up. You need to use a tube cutter for
this, a hacksaw or other method will leave a ragged edge which
won't seal right. After cutting, the tube must be reamed to the
full inside diameter leaving no inside burr (Figure 9.3). Tube that
is out of round prior to flaring should be resized back to round.

2) Place the nut from the compression fitting over the end of the
pipe before continuing. Clamp the flare form over the end of the
pipe. Make sure the pipe is in the correct hole. The pipe should
be flush with the top of the form. Generally it is easiest to
alternate tightening the two sides of the form a little bit at a time

3) Ensure surfaces in contact with reamer are clean from debris.

Place the reamer (looks like a countersink) onto the form.

Adjust the height of the tube in the opening in accordance with

the tool manufacturer's instructions, to achieve sufficient length
of the flare. Position the yoke with the flaring cone over the tube
end and clamp the yoke in place. Turn the handle of the yoke
clockwise (Figure 9.4). This lowers the flaring cone and forces
the lip of the tube against the base of the flaring bar to create an
angled flare that will mate securely with a corresponding flare-
type fitting. Torque to the reamer/tube OEM spec. Care should
be taken not to over-tighten the cone and cause cracking or
 deformation of the tube and/or the tool. Some tools also provide
a setting for ironing or burnishing the flare, as a final step to
achieve a more consistent flare.

4) The top of the pipe should be visible and should be spread out
against the side of the form. Take the reamer off, if it doesn't
look like this:

then the pipe has slipped and you need to go to step one

The final flared tube end should have a smooth, even, round
flare of sufficient length to fully engage the mating surface of the
flare nut without protruding into the threads (Figure 9.5).

Notes:

i) While copper tube is usually joined by soldering or brazing, there are

times when a mechanical joint may be required or preferred. Flared
fittings (Figures 9.1 and 9.2) are an alternative when the use of an
open flame is either not desired or impractical. Water service
applications generally use a flare to iron pipe connection when
connecting the copper tube to the main and/or the meter. In addition,
copper tube used for Fuel Gas (Liquefied Petroleum (LP), Propane
Gas or Natural Gas may be joined utilizing flared brass fittings of single
45º-flare type, according to NFPA 54/ANSI. Z223.1 National Fuel Gas
Code. All National Model Codes permit the use of flare joints, but it is
important to check with the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) to
 determine acceptance for a specific application in any particular
jurisdiction.

ii) A flare joint should be made with an appropriate tool such as those
supplied by a number of tubing/piping tool manufacturers. Make sure to
use a tool that matches the outside diameter of the tube being flared
and that has the appropriate flare angle, commonly 45º (the physical
characteristics of which should be in accordance with the Society of
Automotive Engineers SAE J533 Standard - Flares for Tubing). The
tool usually consists of flaring bars with openings for various tube sizes
and a yoke that contains the flaring cone and a clamp to grip the flaring
bars.

iii) When flaring Types L or K copper tube, annealed or soft temper tube
should be used. It is possible to flare Types K, L or M rigid or hard
temper tube, though prior to flaring it is usually necessary to anneal the
end of the tube to be flared. The copper tube must be cut square using
an appropriate tubing cutter.

iv) No material (e.g., pipe joint compound) should be applied to the

mating surfaces of the flare fitting and the flared tube end before
attaching the flare nut to the fitting body.

Sources:

http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/cth_8flrdjts.html

http://www.diyonline.com/servlet/GIB_BaseT/diylib_article.html?session.docid
=1669
 5. What are the procedures in extraction of broken bolt?

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If the bolt has some of its shank/threads still protruding, try extracting by
unscrewing using vise-grip pliers. Also, sometimes, heating the assembly to
expand the metal components and/or freezing with a "Chiller" product to
shrink the bolt will make removal easier. If these techniques doesn't work,
select one of the following methods:

Using a bolt extractor:

1) Center punch the broken bolt as close to the center as

possible. Using a hammer, mark the center of the broken bolt with a
center punch. This will help you drill into the center of the bolt as
closely as possible, putting you at less risk of damaging the threads of
the broken bolt

2) Drill a pilot hole into the center of the broken bolt with the left-
handed drill bit. A left-handed drill bit is threaded in the opposite
direction, so the reverse setting on your drill is what will actually drive in
the bit. You want to use a left-handed bit because it will torque in the
opposite direction as the broken bolt, which will stop the bolt from being
driven in tighter.
If you’re lucky, the left-handed bit will grab and unscrew the bolt
enough by itself for you to grab the bolt with a pair of vice grips or
channel locks and finish removing it from there.
Make sure you use the appropriate size drill bit. The bits in the
extracting kit should have a table letting you know what size to use
based on the size of the bolt you need to remove. Using too big a bit
will risk damaging the threads on the bolt, and using too small a bit will
require a smaller, weaker extractor with a higher risk of breaking off
during the process.

3) Place the appropriate-size extracting bit into the hole you created
with the drill. Based on the type of extracting kit you purchased, the
extracting bit will have a tapered, left-handed bit at one end and either
a hex head or a T-handle head at the other. Since the extractor is also
a left-handed bit, it will also work into the broken bolt with a
counterclockwise movement.
Since the extractor is tapered, you should initially tap it into place with
your hammer before switching to a socket or T-handle.

4) Remove the broken bolt. As you continue to tighten in the extractor,

the tapered end will catch and the torque will work to loosen the bolt
once the extracting bit is snug.
 Continue turning the extracting tool counterclockwise until the broken
bolt has been completely removed from the surface in which it was
embedded.
Be sure to take your time during this process to prevent excessive
damage to either the bolt or the item from which you are removing it.
You also want to work the extractor as gently as possible because they
are made of hardened steel, and a broken off extractor will be even
more difficult to drill out.

Using weld extraction technique:

1) Thread a hex nut onto the bolt. With any threading the bolt still has
exposed, tighten a hex nut onto it. You want to attach the nut firmly, but
back it off around half a turn, so that it’s not completely flush with the
surface into which the bolt is embedded.

2) Weld the bolt to the nut. Be especially careful if the surface into
which the broken bolt is embedded is one that will melt to the steel bolt
or nut. Because of this, this method works best against a surface such
as aluminum, which does not easily weld to steel.

Note that is the bolt is below surface, a welding electrode may be

applied as a shank for the hexnut:
3) Remove the bolt. After the weld has had time to cool, the hex nut has
essentially been welded into place as the new head of the bolt and can
probably be removed with a socket or a wrench.
In order to break the corrosion bonds, try slowly working the bolt back
and forth initially. Once it starts to loosen, continue working both
directions but more so counterclockwise, so you can begin removing it
entirely
The weld is strong, but it will not be unbreakable. For especially
corroded bolts, the nut may have to be welded back in place more than
once.

Source:

http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Broken-Bolt

https://www.lawsonproducts.com/pdfs/PIRFS003_PI.pdf
 6. What are the tools needed for threading and rethreading and list down
the procedure in doing it.

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Tools:

1) A suitably sized tap/die set, depending on whether you need a

female/male thread

2) Some oil to facilitate debris flow/removal

3) Bench vise

4) If there is no hole to thread yet, a press drill and suitable drill bits

Procedure for tapping:

1) Determine the size of hole you need, and what screw size is
suitable. Refer to a technical publication for the exact
measurements for hole size. For example, if you want to use a
1/4-20 screw then you must use a #7 drill bit. Your set of taps
may also state the appropriate hole size to use with each tap.

2) Secure workpiece firmly. Mark/punch drill point. Drill the hole

to the correct diameter and depth. Remember that taps
generally cannot thread all the way to the bottom of a blind hole,
so a blind hole must be a bit deeper than the required thread
depth.

3) Apply an appropriate lubricant such as oil, WD-40,

kerosene, or a proprietary formula.
WD-40 is not any good as a lubricant on anything other than
aluminum because it is just Kerosene (with the CAS of aviation
grade fuel oil).

4) Insert tap. Hold the tap in line with the hole and turn it
clockwise. Try to keep it very straight as you turn, this is
important. You may feel the material breaking.
5) Every few turns, back the tap out (counterclockwise /
anticlockwise) to clear away chips of loose material. This is
especially important in a blind hole, one that does not go all the
way through the workpiece.

6) When the tap has reached the required depth, back it out,
clean out chips and any cutting fluid or lubricant, and try
your screw or bolt in it

Sources:

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Tap

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_and_die
7. What are the tools needed to perform removal and installation of stud
bolt.

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Tools:

1) Two suitably sized nuts for the stud to be removed

2) Suitably sized spanner

Procedure:

1) Screw first nut deep enough to allow the second nut to be

screwed in compression next to it

2) After second nut is screwed in compression with the first,

unscrew the stud using the first nut only
8. What are the tools needed for riveting and explain the procedure of
doing it.

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Hammer & Mould type rivet

Tools:

1) Suitably sized rivet set

2) Suitable hole punch tool

3) Riveter tool set

4) Hammer

5) Punching pad/backing

Procedure:

1) Select the correct rivet size for the hole diameter and depth. It is
necessary to know the thickness of the joined materials for the
correct selection of the rivet. The height of the shaft for thinner
materials should be optimally about 1-2 mm, for thicker
materials of 2-3 mm less than the thickness of the joined
materials
 Note it is necessary to punch a hole corresponding to the
diameter of the shaft of the rivet in the joining materials. The
hole diameter for the rivet must not be too tight or significantly
greater.

If the hole is too tight, the shaft will not go through the hole.

If conversely it is too large, there is a risk of ripping out the head

of the rivet from material under a tensile load, especially in rivets
of smaller sizes.

2) Test-punch/cut holes for the shaft of the rivet. When cutting

out, the edge of the hole slightly deforms and the hole is
larger than the cutting tool. Deformation is caused by a
gouging process. There is a rule that the thicker the
material is, the greater the deformation. This must always
be remembered. You will not find out the correct size of the
punch by simply attaching the shaft of the rivet to the hole
of the punch point. The size of the punch point must be
slightly smaller than the diameter of the rivet shaft. The
best way to determine the size of the punch point is to test
the size of the hole in a piece of material.

3) Mark the place on the material where we want a rivet. We place

the material on a punching pad, put a punch (sharp side)
perpendicular to the place where we want to punch a hole and
strike the top of the punch (straight side) with a hammer. The
material should be perforated with a single hammer blow. The
punch should be hacked into the punching pad by about
0.5-1 mm. The hole will be free of burrs and have smooth
surface from both sides. For softer materials, rotary punching
pliers can be used instead of a punch.
4) Rivet. It is important to tap a hammer into the riveter only once
and with more force. When you tap again, you will make
scratches to the rivet or to the joining material.

With a blow to the rivet head of the riveter, the shaft is deformed
in the rivet head, increases its diameter and thus create a
dismountable joint.

Reminders:

For a properly executed riveted joint it is important to:

• select a rivet of correct shaft size to the thickness of the
joined materials
• develop sufficient compressive force during unriveting
• the blow of the hammer must be perpendicular to the
riveter
• use the proper tools and equipment for the given size of
the rivets for riveting

Source:

http://blog.pethardware.com/en/how-to-manual-riveting/

Hand-tool pulled-compression riveting

1) Insert rivet pin into two holes of workpieces to rivet together

2) Push rivet pin/shank all the way into rivet pulling tool

3) Squeeze rivet pulling tool to pull the rivet shank inside-out

through the workpiece holes

4) Repeat steps 2-3 above until rivet pin snaps off, leaving a rivet
head on both sides of workpieces.
9. Explain how you construct your project.

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1) From the 100mm x 100mm x 10mm thick piece of mild steel,

markout, centrepunch saw reference lines (5mm interval), saw
and file down to a 90mm x 95mm rectangle. Allow for +2mm
excess material margin. Do not go below 89.5mm by 94.5mm.

Mark sides A, B, C, D starting from the top in portrait orientation,

clockwise (see below diagram).

While filing down, ensure the sides are flat and at 90 degrees by
using a try square
2) Mark out & centrepunch (5mm interval) the 30mm triangle notch.
Saw allowing at least 1mm margin & file at correct angle (see
below)
3) Using a protractor, markout & centrepunch (interval 5mm) the
40mm corner curve radius shown below

4) Markout/punch the drill guide marks shown below in preparation

for filing an internal square:
6) Use an 8.5mm drill bit to initiate the holing as follows:
File the internal square. Punch your name as follows:
 7) Polish your workpiece. Punch/mark drillbit positions as
follows:

9) Drill holes as follows:

Key spec:

1. Drill all holes with a 3,5 mm twist drill first, then drill:
(i) hole 1 with a 9,0 mm twist drill
(ii) hole 2 with a 8,5 mm twist drill
(iii)hole for M 10 with a 8,5 mm twist drill
(iv) hole for M8 with a 6,8 mm twist drill
(v) hole for M6 with a 5,0 mm twist drill
2. Countersink all holes only on this side with the lowest
speed of drill machine
3. Countersink hole 1 with counter bore 9 x 15 at least 5 mm
deep
4. Countersink hole 2 with the necessary 90 countersink
5. Tap the threads with required screw taps M 10, M8 and M6
(do not forget to lubricate)
6. Tap a shank to fit into the M6 hole thread
7. Practice soldering two wires together
8. Submit your work results
10. List down all tools you can see in the work shop.

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1) Hacksaws
2) Files & file brush
3) Drill press
4) Hammers
5) Punch set, including centre punch
6) Bench grinder
7) Vises
8) Rulers
9) Try square
10) Protractor
11) Angle ruler
12) Brooms, dust brush & dustpans
13) Safety goggles
14) First - aid kit
15) Punch set for lettering
16) Taps and dies
17) Arc weld machine
18) Soldering iron, solder & solder paste
19) Rivet (compression-pull) tool and rivets pins