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The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight

4th Edition

Milan, February 16th, 2017


The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight panel

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
12 000+ ~36 k€ 10
Consumers Avg. luxury spend Nationalities
Vs. • +1 000 in China
• +15 k€
2016 Ed. • +1 000 in US

Source: BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Consumer Insight


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 1 1
We push to be relevant on the highest segments of
the luxury consumers

True-Luxury Consumers sample distribution (% respondents)

Luxury yearly spend1


(k€ per consumer) 3rd edition 4th edition

> 100 k€ 1% 7%
7% 25%
50 - 100 k€ 6% 18 %

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
20 - 50 k€ 28 % 30 %

10 - 20 k€ 35 % 25 %

5 - 10 k€ 30 % 20 %

Average Spend for


~21 k€ ~ 36 k€
overall sample

Clusters size evolution 4th vs 3rd Edition

1. Expenditure includes personal luxury (e.g. handbags, shoes, sunglasses and other accessories, clothing) and experiential luxury (e.g. hotels, wine and
spirits, exclusive vacations). Excluded cars, yachts, smartphones & tablets
Source: BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 2 2
We set higher thresholds by category vs previous
edition to identify a "True Luxury Consumer"

Personal Luxury Goods Experiential Luxury Goods

Category Threshold Price vs. '16 Category Threshold Price vs. '16
Handbags >1 000 € / each Restaurants >200 € / person
Shoes >300 € / each Wine & Spirits >100 € / bottle
Sunglasses >180 € / each Hotels (leisure) >450 € / night
Other accessories1 >180 € / each2 Cruise / resort >4 000 € / pers./ week
Outerwear / Coats >1 400 € / each Design furniture >3 000 € / each
Dresses for women >1 200 € / each Lighting >1 000 € / each

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Suits for men >1 600 € / each
Sweaters / Knitwear >400 € / each Other Luxury Goods
Shirts / Topwear >200 € / each
Jeans / Pants / Skirts >250 € / each Category Threshold Price vs. '16
Fragrances & Cosmetics >100 € / each
Cars >100 000 € / each
Watches >2 000 € / each
Luxury Boats / Yachts >750 000 € / each
Smart watches >400 € / each
Smartphones / Tablets >1 000 € / each
Jewelry >1 200 € / each

Minimum spent 5 k€ in the past year


on personal luxury goods

1. "Other accessories " includes scarves, wallets, belts and ties 2. > 180€/each for Small Leather Goods, >150 €/each for Silk Goods
Source: BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight; BCG
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 3 3
The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 4th Edition
Main Outcomes

Steady market, True luxury consumers growing

A rising perception of price-value misalignment

More casual, more customized!

True luxury consumers buying more at home

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Luxury goes omnichannel

Monobrand at the heart of an omnichannel experience

#Luxurygoessocial

Behavioral consumer segment evolution

BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 4 4
Steady market, True-Luxury Consumers growing

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 5
The global luxury market worth ~860Bn€ in 2016,
experiential growing faster than personal luxury

Global luxury goods market (B€)


@ Retail value
CAGR
09-13 13-16 16-23F
4-5% 1 187
5.6%
380 8.3% 3.8% 2-3%
9.3% 844 860
730 755
692

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
623 322 318
511 551 285 291
280
257
207 233 807 9.9% 6.8% 5-6%

522 542
412 445 464
305 317 366

2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2023F

Personal1 Experiential

1. Personal goods include accessories, apparel, watches & jewelry, fragrances & cosmetics
Source: BCG Luxury Market model
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 6 6
Out of ~400 Mn Luxury Consumers only 17Mn
identified as "True-Luxury Consumers"
CLUSTER 2016 2023
# (M) Bn(€) # (M) Bn(€)
50 k€ Beyond money 0.4 0.5

20 k€ Top Absolute 1.3 2.0


Absolute 4.5 6
10 k€
Entry Absolute 11 14
5 k€
Total True-Luxury 17 22
+5

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
2 k€ Top Aspirational 21 28

Other Aspirational 375 440

+72

Total Luxury ~415 ~490


Consumers
+75

Note: rounded numbers


Source: BCG Luxury Market model
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 7 7
A further polarizing pyramid ahead: True-Luxury
Consumers up from ~29% to ~32% of global market
CLUSTER 2016 2023
# (M) Bn(€)1 # (M) Bn(€)1
50 k€ Beyond money 0.4 20 0.5 40

20 k€ Top Absolute 1.3 30 2.0 53


Absolute 4.5 93 6 141
10 k€
Entry Absolute 11 107 14 147
5 k€
Total True-Luxury 17 250 22 381
+131

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
2 k€ Top Aspirational 21 61 28 92

Other Aspirational 375 549 440 715

+196

Total Luxury ~415 ~860 ~490 ~1185


Consumers
+325
1. Including Experiential and Personal luxury, excluding cars and Yachts
Note: rounded numbers
Source: BCG Luxury Market model
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 8 8
True-Luxury Consumers maintaining a healthier and
steadier growth for the future
CAGR 2016 - 2023

50 k€ Personal Experiential Total


20 k€
True
10 k€ Luxury 4-5% 7-8% 6-7%

5 k€

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
2 k€ Aspirational 1-2% 5-6% ~4%

2-3% 5-6% 4-5%

Note: rounded numbers


Source: BCG Luxury Market model
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 9 9
In a slower personal luxury market, there will be
clear winners and losers among Brands

Turnover growth for 20 leading personal luxury brands1

2009 - 2013 2013 - 2016 2016 - 2023


# brands

Strong Growth 14 5
CAGR >10%

Growth

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
3 6
CAGR 4% to 10%

Flat 1 1 ...
CAGR 0% to +4%

Decreasing 2 8
CAGR < 0%

Average Market
8.3% 3.8% ~2-3%
Growth

1. Sample of 20 leading brands in personal luxury


Source: Press Search; BCG Analysis
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 10 10
In a slower personal luxury market, winners and
losers expected also among categories
True Luxury Consumers net appetite by category1
(net appetite = people increasing spend in the future > +20% – people decreasing spend in the future > - 20%)

40%
33%
21% 15% 10%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
0%
-7%
-25%

Fragrances & Watches Small leather Silk


Shoes Handbags Clothing2 Sunglasses
Cosmetics & Jewelry goods goods

1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend on the category (Positive – Negative).
Multiple options answer (up to 5 categories ) 2. Including jeans / pants; shirts / topwear; dresses / suits; coats / outerwear; knitwear
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 11 11
Appetite driven by Millennials with shoes and F&C
key to recruit them - Handbags polarized
Net appetite by category1
Overall By generation

Millennials Gen. X Baby B. & Silver

40% 43% 43% 13%

33% 36% 32% 22%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
21% 24% 18% 13%

15% 23% 10% -16%

10% 14% 10% -10%

0% 3% 0% -16%

-7% -3% -11% -14%

-25% -22% -27% -33%

1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend on the category
(Positive – Negative). Multiple options answer (up to 5 categories ) Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 12 12
Chinese and Americans will continue to drive the
appetite for luxury consumption

True Luxury Consumers net appetite by nationality1


(net appetite = people increasing spend in the future > +20% – people decreasing spend in the future > - 20%)

46%
41%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
24% 24%
20% 18%
13% 11% 11%
5%
-10%

Overall

1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend (Positive – Negative)
2. Share of nationalities in terms of luxury market value
Source: BCG Luxury Market model; BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers respondents in 10 countries)
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 13 13
True-Luxury Consumers showing a good appetite
for 2017
True Luxury Barometer®
"Do you expect to spend more or less on luxury products in the next year?"

More 33% 23% 37% 38% 40%


(+20%)

Same 43% 48% 39% 41% 43%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Less 24% 29% 24% 21% 17%
(-20%)

2013 2014 2015 2016 2017E


True Luxury
9pp -5pp 13pp 17pp 24pp
Barometer®1

1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend (Positive – Negative).
The index represents a proxy of the expected growth of spend in Luxury by Top Luxury consumers
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers respondents in 10 countries)
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 14 14
Only 17% of true luxury consumers declare they will
spend less in 2017

"This year have you spent more or " What are the key reasons for which you
less on luxury products vs last year?" have spent less?"

• Economic instability
• Travel less frequently
More 40% 43% External • Lower confidence in future income
(+20%) • Fear of terroristic attacks

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
• Luxury prices increase
43% Luxury
• Personal luxury saturation
Same
57% sector • Less special occasions to attend
Mainly low
spender
related • Lower interest in luxury brands
Less Millennials – • Partial shift to premium / fast fashion brands
(-20%) 17% mostly European
• Brands selling too much non core categories

Note: multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons)


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 15 15
A rising perception of price – value misalignment

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 16
Over the last years the price of luxury iconic items
has increased by far more than inflation

Index: 2010 = 100 155 Luxury iconic


bags price1

3x

118 Global
inflation

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
100

2010 2012 2014 2016

1. Average luxury products price increase calculated based on 2010-2016 list prices of a panel of iconic luxury handbags
Source: Press search; World Bank; BCG analysis
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 17 17
>50% of Luxury consumers perceive a price/value
misalignment. Americans & Millennials most disappointed
"Do you feel a progressive separation between overall value of Luxury products and their price?"

% of Overall By nationality By generation


respondents
Millennials Gen. X Baby B. &
Silver

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
42 % 45 %
No 48 % 49 % 51 % 56 % 50 % 54 %

58 % 55 %
Yes 52 % 51 % 49 % 44 % 50 % 46 %

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 18 18
2 / 3 of misalignment perception driven by price, 1 / 3
by exclusivity loss and product quality issues

"Thinking about your favorite luxury brand, you told that you noticed a discrepancy
between the overall value and the price. What are the main reasons for this?"

Emerging Markets
% of respondents perceiving
a price discrepancy Key reasons1
#1 Iconic products' exclusivity loss
#2 Lack of innovation
#3 Overall Brand's exclusivity loss

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
63 %

100 %
Mature Markets
37 % Key reasons1
#1 Lower material quality
Discrepancy Price Product #2 Lower manufacture quality
increase value
decrease #3 Iconic products' exclusivity loss

1. Multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons)


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 19 19
8 out of 10 disappointed consumers plan to react :
In ~50% of cases likely to translate in lost sales

"In case of a progressive separation between the price and the perceived product value,
what would you do?
% of respondents perceiving a price discrepancy

17 % 45%

Lost sales

100 %

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
83 % 25%
17% 15%
13%
10% 10% 9%

Buy other Look for Look for Go to Renounce Trade Buy lower
Perceived No reaction Reaction
luxury discounts discounts brand’s to buy down to priced
misalignment brand online offline outlets to premium from same
(multibrand) find brands brand
discounts

Lost sales Going off-price / lower priced items

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 20 20
As a result ~60 out of ~230 Brands surveyed losing
traction, especially total look ones

"Is there a brand on which you have the feeling that you have reduced /
you will probably reduce your luxury spending?"
% of brands recalled by respondents

Lifestyle / Category
74% total look

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
specialists
100%

36%
26% 19%

Total personal Resilient Affected by Brands Affected by


luxury brands spend decrease spend decrease

Note: Out of the total 12,000 respondents, 79% mentioned a luxury brand on which they reduced their spend. Total personal luxury brands include 230 brands
spontaneously recalled by respondents. Brands affected by spending decrease include those mentioned by more than 50 respondents. Possible to mention
only one brand Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 21 21
Trading down is an attitude also for beyond money
Luxury consumers . Americans the most active

"Do you have the feeling that you have partially shifted your spending from luxury
brands to premium and / or fast fashion brands?"

% of respondents By luxury spend By nationality

7% 10%

Yes 41% 37%


43% 44%
57%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
81%
93% 90%

No 59% 63%
57% 56%
43%
19%

Total 5-20 k€ 20-50 k€ > 50 k€

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 22 22
Luxury Consumers trading down to premium brands
almost 2x than to fast fashion ones

"Do you have the feeling that you have partially shifted your spending from luxury
brands to premium and / or fast fashion brands?"

% of respondents % of respondents trading down

Yes 41%

70%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Premium 64%

No 59%
Fast
fashion
36% 46%
Total Total

Note: Multiple options answer. In calculating the % of respondents trading down to premium and fast fashion brands, respondents trading down to both
premium and fast fashion brands were counted twice
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 23 23
More Casual, more Customized!

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 24
Casualwear with increasing appeal vs. formal
for 2 / 3rd of True-Luxury Consumers

"Has your attitude towards formal wear changed?"

% of respondents

34 %

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
100 %

66 %

Overall No change Decrease of


perceived formal in favor
in formal of casual

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 25 25
Casualwear fuelled by wardrobe saturation for the
eldest, higher appeal and acceptance for the youngest

"What are the key reasons driving the lower appeal for formal wear in your mind?"
% of respondents Overall By generation
with lower appeal
for formal wear
Millennials Gen. X Baby B. & Silver

Enough formal wear


for formal occasions
55% 55% 54% 61%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Casual suitable
to more occasions
51% 52% 50% 49%

More comfort
with casual
48% 50% 48% 40%

Follow casualization
at the office
37% 40% 36% 28%

Formal wear now


too expensive
29% 33% 28% 19%

Note: multiple options answer (up to three reasons)


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 26 26
The Luxurization of the Casualwear

Luxury sneakers Luxury down jackets

Market @ Retail value (Bn€) Market @ Retail value (Bn€)

9.3 Bn€ 16.0 Bn€ 9.6 Bn€ 13.0 Bn€


Sneakers 0.9 Down jackets 0.5
3.0 2.0

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Other shoes 8.4 Other outerwear 9.1
13.0 11.0

2009 2016 2009 2016

Source: BCG Luxury market model


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 27 27
Growing demand for customization

"Is customization relevant for you when purchase luxury?"

Avg.

% of respondents answering "Yes" 22%


Avg.
23 % 23 % 23 %
22 % 14%
20 %
17 % 18 %

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
16 %
15 % 15 % 15 %
13 % 13 %
10 %

2013 2014 2015 2016

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 28 28
Bespoke is the most desired feature;
different customization priorities by product category
"Which are the elements of customization that you value the most?"
% of respondents considering each customization aspect relevant

#1 Bespoke #2 Product #3 Service #4 Made to #5 Initials or


products configuration measure writings

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
57% 53% 52% 50% 47%

1st category
by relevance

Note: multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons)


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 29 29
Made-in Italy still leading, fuelled by Apparel,
Bags and Shoes

"Which country of manufacturing do you consider the best for luxury products?"

Drivers of the increase (2014-2016)


% of respondents
that check Made-in1 Δ 2014-2016 (pp)

+13 pp +20 pp -3 pp -5 pp
29% 11
32% 40%
23% 5 19% 20% 21% 18% 15% 10%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
12% 4 2014 2016 2014 2016 2014 2016 2014 2016

+6 pp +1 pp +10 pp +18 pp
10% 0
53%
26% 35%
6% -5 14% 20% 16% 17% 16%

6% 0 2014 2016 2014 2016 2014 2016 2014 2016

... +7 pp +2 pp +0 pp +2 pp

10% 17% 8% 10% 11% 11% 8% 10%


3% -2
2014 2016 2014 2016 2014 2016 2014 2016

1. Excluding cars, luxury boats, design and lightening


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 30 30
Made-in Italy recognized worldwide, while
Made-in U.S. mainly appreciated by Americans

Made-in preference (Italy vs. US) by consumer nationality


Focus on Personal Luxury1
% of respondents

40% Made-in

30%

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20%

Made-in
10%

0%

1. Excluding cars, luxury boats, design and lightening


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 31 31
True Luxury Consumers buying more at home

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 32
True-Luxury Consumers are buying more in their
home country

"Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1 "Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1

% of Chinese respondents % of American respondents

23%
35% Abroad 35%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Abroad 61%
Of which Of which
16% 20%
online online
77%
65% Local 65%

Local 39%

2014 2016 2014 2016

1. For Top 4 EU nationalities (French, German, Italian, British) local purchases from 48% in 2014 to 79% in 2016. For Japanese local purchases from 71% in
2014 to 82% in 2016 2. Includes both cities where respondents bought in the last 12 months and plan to buy in the next 12 months. Multiple options
answer (all cities that apply) Note: Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau included in "Abroad" Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 33 33
Chinese increasingly back home to buy luxury

"Where did you buy your last luxury item?"

% of Chinese buying locally1

Daigou Effect 65%


High Price Gap Locally
(Mainland
Strong Yuan China)
41%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
30% 39% Government Initiatives
(Duty Rates, Boarder Controls)

Global Pricing

Weak Yuan

2013 2014 2015 2016

1. Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan excluded


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 34 34
True Luxury Consumers are buying more in their
home country

"Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1 "Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1

Top destinations for luxury shopping2 Top destinations for luxury shopping2
% of Chinese respondents % of American respondents
2015 2016 2015 2016

#1 Paris Tokyo #1 Paris London

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
#2 Tokyo London #2 London Tokyo

#3 New York Paris #3 Milan Paris

#4 Milan New York #4 Dubai Dubai

#5 Dubai Milan #5 Hong Kong Milan

1. For Top 4 EU nationalities (French, German, Italian, British) local purchases from 48% in 2014 to 79% in 2016. For Japanese local purchases from 71% in
2014 to 82% in 2016 2. Includes both cities where respondents bought in the last 12 months and plan to buy in the next 12 months. Multiple options
answer (all cities that apply) Note: Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau included in "Abroad" Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 35 35
Luxury goes Omnichannel

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BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 36
Store solo sales decreasing but omnichannel the
real trend vs. online solo sales

"Where have you bought your last luxury item? Where have you researched it?"
% of respondents on last purchase

2013 2016

53% Digitally Influenced 61% Digitally Influenced

7% 10%
8% 9%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
100
100
38%
42%
100% 100%

47% 39%
46% Omnichannel 51% Omnichannel

Store ROPO1 Show Online Total Store ROPO1 Show Online Total
solo rooming2 solo solo Rooming solo
2

1. Researched Online, Purchased Offline 2. Researched Offline, Purchased Online


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 37 37
Digital influence growth fuelled by Americans

"Where have you bought the last item purchased? Where have you researched it?"
Overall By nationality

Digitally influenced
purchases1 2016 (%)
61% 64% 72% 54%
( On line solo + Show

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
rooming + ROPO)
22 pp

Trend 2013-2016 9 pp 8 pp
(Δ pp) 6 pp

1. Considering the last luxury purchase


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 38 38
Millennials the most digitally influenced

"Where have you bought the last luxury item purchased? Where have you researched it?"1

Overall By generation

% of respondents on Millennials Gen. X Baby B. & Silver


last purchase

Store solo 39% 32%


42%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
56%

ROPO
46%
42% 41%
28%
Showrooming 12%
9% 7% 6%
Online solo 10% 10% 10% 10%

Digitally influenced
61% 68% 58% 44%
purchases (%)

1. Mainly personal items (~90%), among experiential includes wine & spirts, furniture, smartphones,..
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 39 39
60% of online purchases are perceived to be
additional to physical retail purchases

"Do you have the feeling that your spending online is in addition to or
cannibalizing your luxury spending in physical stores?"

% of respondents1 Overall By nationality

2016 19% 21% 22% 17% 15%


online purchases

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
In addition 56%
61% 62% 66%
to physical 77%

Cannibalization 39% 44% 38% 34%


23%

1. Considering the online channel among the top 3 channels used over the last 12 months
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 40 40
Full price multibrand eShops key for Millennials :
Brands' websites and Marketplaces for the eldest

"Which kind of online store did you buy the product from?"

% of respondents Overall By generation

Millennials Gen. X Baby B. & Silver

Brand owned online


stores 34% 33% 33% 37%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Full price multi-brand
online stores
46% 49% 46% 36%
(e.g. Net à Porter, Dept.
Store e-commerce)

Online marketplace
(e.g. Amazon, TMall, JD.com) 20%
15% 14% 15%
Discount specialized 6% 7%
5% 4%
online stores (e.g. Yoox)

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 41 41
Demand for an omnichannel experience is growing
fast , driven by Chinese and Americans

"How important is it for you that a brand can be "What you would expect when
reached through different channels?" interacting with your preferred luxury
brand through multiple channels?"1
Overall By nationality (2016)
% of respondents % of respondents considering omni-
channel not negotiable/very important
2014 2016
8% Consistent Brand
15% 13% 54%
Not important 25% 19% 23% Image

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
38%
36% Integrated Delivery
39% 49%
41% and Service Level
Somehow 38% 38%
important
39% Same Rewards

54% 51%
Not negotiable / 37% 46%
40% 39%
very important Customer relationship
38%
Management

1. Multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons)


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 42 42
How effectively are Luxury Brands responding to the
omnichannel expectations? (I)
~100 brands included
in the analysis1
Brands' satisfaction distribution (2016)
Omnichannel Satisfaction Index = (People mentioning as the best brand – people mentioning as the worse brand)

100%

50%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
0%

-50%

1. Only personal luxury goods, Included only brands with statistical significant observations in total satisfaction
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 43 43
How effectively are Luxury Brands responding to the
omnichannel expectations? (II)
~100 brands included
in the analysis1

Omnichannel needs Brands' satisfaction distribution (2016)

Consistent brand image

Integrated delivery
and service level

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Same Rewards
across channels

Customer relationship
management

Satisfaction Index2

1. Only personal luxury, Included only brands with statistical significant observations 2.# respondents who selected the brand as best brand –
# respondents who selected the brand as worst brand Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 44 44
Monobrand at the heart of an omnichannel experience

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 45
Monobrand stores losing traffic and sales;
Japan and China more resilient

"Have you bought your last luxury item from a monobrand store?"

Overall By nationality (2016)

% of respondents

36%
35%
7%
32% Abroad At home

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
30%
27% 11% 27%
26% 26%
19% 6% 6%
12%
29%
21%
20% 20% 12%
11% 15%
3%
9%

2014 2016
Trend '14-'16

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 46 46
Too many stores opened in the past vs. market growth

Global retail footprint1 growth vs. Personal Luxury Market growth (2014-2016)

@ Constant Exchange Rate


3x
5.0%
2x
4.0%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
1.9%
1.6%

0-1%
0.0%

... 2014 2015 2016

Market Growth Retail Footprint Growth (Store #)

1. # stores
Source: BCG Analysis, "Luxury Goods Store Wars 2016" - Bernstein
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 47 47
Shopping experience and product assortment the
main reasons for monobrand disaffection

"Do you have the feeling that you will "Which are the reasons for which you
purchase more or less frequently in are purchasing less frequently
monobrand stores?" in mono-brand physical stores?" 1

% of respondents

Less 21%
frequently 33% 32%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Same 52%
frequency 17% 16%

More 27%
frequently

Monotonous Lack of Price Proximity


shopping product
experience assortment
newness

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 48 48
But monobrand still at the heart of an omnichannel
True-Luxury consumer experience around the Brand

Monobrand influence Reasons to buy in Monobrand


% of respondents
on last purchase

#1 Try & touch the product


Monobrand
Solo 27%
#2 Offer range of the brand
Researched in
Monobrand 7%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Purchased Online
#3 Product customization
Researched in 22%
Monobrand Experienced / trustable
Purchased in other 15% #4 sales staff
physical channel

Monobrand #5 Presence of signature /


Influence 49% exclusive items

Monobrand influencing 22% of purchases


done in other channels

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)


BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 49 49
#luxurygoessocial

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx Draft—for discussion only 50
Word of Mouth the 1st influence lever on True Luxury
Consumers, thanks to digital /social media

"Which of these levers has an impact on how you develop opinions or purchase decisions?"
% of respondents

2013 2016

Magazines 2 50% WoM1 19% 38% 57%

WoM1 32% 11% 43% Magazines2 39%

Store Brand
39% websites3
33%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
windows
Brand Store
websites3
34% windows
26%

TV & TV &
Movies
24% Movies
23%

Events 20% Events 17%

Celebrities 20% Celebrities 16%

Seen Seen
Worn
13% Worn
12%

Physical Social Media & Online Blogs


Note: Multiple options answer (ranking of five levers) 1 Includes physical Word Of Mouth, Social Media and Other online blogs 2. Editorials and
Commercial in Magazines. Includes both traditional & digital magazines 3. Includes also Brand's App
Source: BCG 2014 ad hoc study (10'000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 51 51
72% of true luxury consumers use Social Media to
interact with their favourite luxury brands

"Do you use Social Media to interact with luxury brands?"

Overall By generation By nationality

% of respondents Millennials Gen. X Baby B. & Silver

No

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
23% 18% 22%
28% 28% 34%
47% 12% 51%
Yes, 13% 16%
occasionally 15% 16%
15%

24% 17%
72% 70%
Yes, 57% 64% 56% 62%
51%
frequently1
29% 32%

1. At least one Social Media used more than once per day
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 52 52
Facebook, YouTube, Instagram the hottest Platforms
Instant messaging with very high frequency
"How frequently and which Social Media do you use to interact with luxury brands or
social media peers to share opinions?"
Users (% of respondents)
50% Focus on Content

Facebook
40%

30%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
20%

1)
10%
2)
Focus on
Interaction/Service
Frequency
0%
of usage
≥1 time per day
≤1 time per week

1. Tencent QQ 2. Sina Weibo


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 53 53
Behavioral Consumer Segments Evolution

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 54
Where does behavioral segmentation apply?

Behavioral Segmentation
50 k€
20 k€ True-Luxury
Consumers
10 k€

5 k€

Top Aspirational

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
2 k€

Other Aspirational Occasional Luxury Consumers

1. Including Experiential and Personal luxury, excluding cars and Yachts


Note: rounded numbers
Source: BCG Luxury Market model
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 55 55
Absolute Luxurer, Megacitier and Social Wearer have
driven market growth over the last years

Contribution to luxury market growth by segment (2013-2016)


Total P & E Market generated by True Luxury & Top Aspirational consumers – Bn€
of total 4 1 -1 -1 -1
~90% growth 5 -3 -4
6 312
13
16

22

255

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Abs. Social Status Luxe Omni
2013 Experiencer 2016
Luxurer Wearer Seaker Immune Gifter
#LITTLE Rich Timeless Class-
Megacitier Fashionista
PRINCE Upstarter Proper pirational

Segment Value
83 54 23 21 38 9 17 20 5 20 16 6
Size, Bn€

Absolute Luxurer growing by spend increase, Megacitier


and Social Wearer growing by luxury consumer number

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)


primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 56 56
Each geography has its own segment mix
Segment distribution by nationality
% of # of luxury
consumers Overall

Fashionista 11% 12% 14% 9% 6%

Megacitier 11% 16% 10% 9% 3%

Classpirational 10% 7% 8% 7% 15%

Experiencer 9% 4% 10% 13% 10%

Timeless Proper 9% 6% 9% 11% 15%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Status Seeker 9% 7% 9% 9% 9%

Social Wearer 8% 8% 10% 8% 3%

Absolute Luxurer 8% 6% 11% 10% 3%

Rich Upstarter 8% 22% 0% 1% 0%

#LITTLEPRINCE 8% 5% 8% 9% 3%

Omni Gifter 6% 6% 4% 7% 11%

Luxe Immune 5% 0% 6% 7% 21%


Top 3 Segments

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)


primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 57 57
Working well on a segment pays back

Share of # of luxury consumers, %

Absolute
Megacitier Social Wearer
Luxurer

+7pp +3pp +9pp

17% 15% 13%

12%
11%

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
10% 8%
8%
4%

Overall 2013 2016 Overall 2013 2016 Overall 2013 2016


2016 2016 2016
5 brands with highest 5 brands with highest 5 brands with highest
penetration in the penetration in the penetration in the
segment segment segment

Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)


primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 58 58
Example: a Brand successfully changing its consumers
mix towards more attractive behavioral segments
Example for an high-end
personal luxury brand
Segment with highest penetration vs. segment with lowest penetration
for a successful and growing brand
Segment Share of # of luxury consumers, %
+6pp
Avg. Spend 40k€ 14%
Growing1 +11% p.a. 8%

Tends to be very loyal

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Absolute Luxurer
Overall Brand share

Avg. Spend 3k€ -5pp


10%
Diminishing1 -15% p.a.
5%
Less loyal to a brand
Classpirational Overall Brand share

The luxury brand here represented achieved a


+ 16 % revenue growth p.a. in the last 3 years

1. Segment Generated Market


Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)
primocapitolo.pptx Draft—for discussion only 59 59
The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 4th Edition
Main Outcomes

1 In a moderate growth luxury market, True-Luxury Consumers maintaining a healthier and steadier pace

2 In a slower personal luxury market expected winners and losers both among Brands and among Categories

3 Discrepancy between perceived value and price puts at risk affection of ~50% of consumers

4 Casualwear with increasing appeal vs. formal for 2 / 3 of True-Luxury Consumers

5 Customization a growing request and purchase driver, especially in Apparel

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
6 Consumers buying more in their home country, especially Chinese

7 Store solo sales decreasing but omnichannel the real trend vs. online solo sales

8 Monobrand stores losing traffic and sales, not only for online effect

9 True-Luxury Consumers massively engaging on Social Media with their favorite Brands

10 Strong differences in Brands performances within winning Luxury Consumers BCG Behavioral segments

BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 60 60
Thank you

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The True Luxury Consumer: What BCG could do for
Luxury Companies leveraging the study

1 Launch an ad hoc survey on True Luxury Consumer of the brand to bring


insight to the next level on key topics relevant for the business
Brand Equity • e.g. Categories, Geographical Markets, Consumer generations
to support • e.g. Digital, retail execution, megacities penetration,
sales boost • ....

2 Voice of Launch an ad hoc consumer study tailored on the specific target consumer

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
consumers to of a Brand to inform key business decisions
inform key • e.g. Possible merge / demerge of two lines
decisions • ...

3 Develop a tailored and proprietary consumer behavioral segmentation for


Actionable the brand, applying BCG behavioral segmentation to Brand CRM data
• To capture future organic growth and boost LFL retail sales
consumer
– Inform key decisions in merchandising, assortment, CRM, marketing,...
segmentation – Define and launch pilots
– Measure and scale up

BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 62 62
BCG Authors
Nicola Olivier Federico
Pianon Abtan Bonelli

Senior Partner Partner and


and Managing Managing
Director Director Principal
- Milan - Paris - Milan
Leading Fashion & Luxury Division Global Lead of Fashion & Luxury Fashion & Luxury Division Core
in Italy Division Member
26 years @ BCG 17 years @ BCG 8 years of Strategy Consulting in F&L

Copyright © 2016 by The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Expertise areas Expertise areas Expertise areas
• Business planning, strategy • 20+ fashion & Luxury (vendor) due • Focus on luxury and premium
definition and implementation in diligences in the last 3 years alone industry in all categories
Fashion and Luxury • Deep expertise in digital strategies • Assisted 40+ luxury groups
• Retailing and retail development • Retail transformation and concept • Led large transformations, focusing
• Go to market strategy definition for definition across Europe and Africa on distribution, retail, merch., ...
luxury brands in Europe, US & Asia • Deep expertise in Merchandising, • Interim General Manager of Recarlo
• Deep expertise in Digital strategy Category Management and Product in 2012
Development
Contacts Contacts Contacts
Pianon.nicola@bcg.com Abtan.olivier@bcg.com Bonelli.federico@bcg.com
Tel. +39 02 65599 204 Tel. +33 1 4017 4381 Tel. +39 02 65599 608
Mobile +39 335 237556 Mobile +33 6 03 61 61 00 Mobile +39 335 8495649

BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx Draft—for discussion only 63 63
Thank you

bcg.com | bcgperspectives.com

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