Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
Barcelona Zambia
Iberian style A luxury safari
Sergio
Herman Turks &
A Dutch Master Caicos
Island Festival
Nomad
Urban Eatery Tom Aikens
The Big Breakfast The interview
VOL 5 ISS 1
FINE FOOD FROM THE KITCHEN’S AT FOLLY BY NICK & SCOTT
Editorial Enquiries
editor@foodandtravelarabia.com
Sales & Advertising
I
Stefanie Will, editor n the Middle East, we are now amongst the world’s most adventurous
stefanie.will@foodandtravel.com travellers and gastronomers. Horizons are broad, tastes eclectic.
Food and Travel, Mexico Every month, Food and Travel Arabia brings these two naturally
Cecilia Núñez, editor complementary interests together in a single magazine. Food and
cecilia.nunez@lyrsa.com.mx
Food and Travel, Turkey
Travel Arabia is about adventure, the quest for new foods and new
Mehmet Tel, editor flavours, and the discovery of new places and new friends.
mehmet.tel@foodandtravel.com.tr Our best travel and food writers have been briefed to search the world for
Food and Travel, Italy exciting destinations, the latest restaurants and the finest cooking. The
Marco Sutter, publisher result is award winning editorial covering the world’s favourite pastimes -
publisher@foodandtravelitalia.com
Food and Travel, Portugal
food, drink and travel. Every month we get up close and personal with some
Jose Fragoso, publisher of the region’s kitchen favourites to talk seasonal produce and personal
jose.fragoso@foodandtravel.com.pt culinary development, inspiration and of course key interviews. Our expert
team seeks out gastronomic gems in some of the world’s most exciting
destinations marrying food and travel in beautifully photographed features
to whet your appetite. Get the low down on the latest in haute cuisine with
WINNER expert opinion and insights from some of the world’s most talented award
PPA Independent Publishing Company of the Year winning and Michelin Starred chefs. Read honest and independent hotel and
WINNER restaurant reviews from around the region and around the world; Recreate
PPA Publisher of the Year the chefs’ favourite dishes at home from our detailed recipe section and
Food and Travel Magazine is published by Green Pea follow the progress of your favourite restaurant, hotel or destination
Publishing Ltd, Ingate Place, London, UK. Food and Travel
& Food and Travel Arabia are published under license from
throughout the year in the Food and Travel GCC Awards.
Turnstart Limited, a UK company. Gulf Publishing Ltd, a UK
company and Gulf Digital WLL are the exclusive licensed
agents for Food & Travel Arabia in the GCC under copyright
of Green Pea Publishing. All rights of the licensed material Bon Appétit
belong to Turnstart Limited and may not be reproduced
whether in whole or in part without its prior written consent.
The name “Food and Travel” is the property of Turnstart
Limited. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the
Publisher. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are not
accepted and will not be returned
20
40 82
52
12
64
76
56 49
42
January 2018
ARRIVALS 70 Seven seas of wry Food and 56 Sky-high dining At.mosphere
7 News This month we visit the Travel columnist Kevin Pilley | is located on 122nd floor of the
region’s latest places to stay visits the Turks & Caicos Burj Khalifa guaranteeing breath-
and eat Conch Festival taking views
18 The Food and Travel Awards 76 Going underground A tour of 60 La Vinoteca Barcelona
It’s that time – discover who has Turkey’s underground cities of Inspiring cuisine, chic
made the final expert judging Cappadocia Mediterranean style and an
round of the 2018 Awards 82 The Rock Gibraltar has seen authentic Spanish dining
civilisations come and go leaving experience
TALK behind unique architecture, 66 Peruvian chic Lima Dubai
12 The interview Two Michelin- attractions, and myths offers modern Peruvian cuisine
starred Tom Aikens, the from award-winning chef Virgilio
youngest British chef to earn two FOOD Martinez
Michelin stars 20 The pantry We discover tasty
40 Richard Raab The driving festive recipes for Napa cabbage TRIED & TASTED
force behind Four Seasons and healthy oats 87 Chef’s Palette Channel your
Bahrain Bay 32 Simply the best The latest inner-Heston at Fairmont the
Palm’s cookery studio
52 Sergio Herman We catch recipes from the kitchens of folly
up with the three Michelin-starred by Nick & Scott 88 Places to eat Michelin plates
Dutch Master in Dubai 72 A little of what you fancy We on high in Berlin, theatrical
American in London’s West End,
64 Management by Design find out why just a little of what
you fancy, really can do a bunch of brunches and some
Meet Sandra Tikal GM of Dubai’s
you good Italian cheer
iconic Palazzo Versace
92 90 Places to stay A brutal
80 Hotel talk Anne-Marie Dowling Recipes This month’s collection
of mouth-watering recipes for redesign in Phuket, colonial
talks about hospitality and the
you to try at home luxe in New Delhi, time to get
Middle East
cosy in the Cotswolds, and dine
98 The last word Romain van in the ultimate gourmet escape
Durmen, Chef de Cuisine for The DESTINATIONS
Chefs Palette, Cooking Studio 42 Simply Seychelles Palm-
fringed white beaches, balmy
waters & lush green islands
TRAVEL
49 The big breakfast Nomad
44 Game on Discover an exclusive
Urban Eatery delivers exceptional
safari lodge, in Zambia’s remote
food and a chic dining
Liuwa Plains National Park
experience
awaits the healthy lifestyle-lover.
New
www.lhw.com
s an
d vi
ews
from
the
wor
lds
fooof
d an
d tr
ave
l
I just find satisfying. You have to be at the top of your game and
there’s no room for error.”
Thanks to the long hours demanded of chefs, particularly in the
era in which Aikens earned his stripes (or his stars, if you will), this
consumed his entire life. “We worked long days, sometimes 20
hours, with only a very short break and perhaps one day off a week.
When I was training you looked after yourself in order to first survive
and then succeed,” he says. Despite all this, Aikens says that a
different career path was never an option and that he knew from a
young age that the kitchen was where he was meant to be: “I have
always been incredibly competitive and driven; I’d be the first one to
arrive in the morning and the last one out at night. I was constantly
striving to improve, looking around to see whose job I could do
faster and better. It’s a good thing I’ve never needed a lot of sleep
to function,” he adds wryly.
For the outsider looking in, particularly from the working world that
many of us exist in today – one governed by company initiatives
and HR rules – this all sounds rather extreme. Thankfully Aikens
say that things have improved since he was a young commis chef
eager to make his mark: “Working hours are definitely more carefully
monitored now. There’s far greater emphasis placed on mentoring
young chefs these days: spotting talent and really nurturing it and
bringing people along, which is a good thing.”
Spurred on by the fact that he doesn’t consider himself to have
had a mentor, he really looks after the young chefs he thinks have
the potential to flourish. “Within five minutes of meeting a trainee I
can tell if they’ve got what it takes. You can see the people with
drive, with a desire to succeed: they arrive early, work hard, take
pride in what they do and are constantly pushing themselves,” he
states. His standards must be rather exacting, I venture and he
agrees: “If you show someone something, you want them to do it
that way every time and it’s amazing how many people just don’t get
that. It sounds basic, but it’s such a simple, important thing.”
While Aikens has enjoyed phenomenal career success, there
have also been some well-documented low points as well, which
makes you wonder what advice he gives to those he mentors.
“Besides telling them to put their heads down and work as hard as
they possibly can – which is obvious really – I tell them they need a
game plan,” he explains. “There’s no point just grafting relentlessly
for years without knowing what you want to get out of it. Figure out
the end goal – whether that’s being a head chef, having a string of
restaurants, whatever – and then work out the steps you need to
take and the things you need to do to get there. Time goes so fast
and you’re not young forever, you need a plan.”
Even just chatting to him for a relatively short time it’s clear that
although he may well have mellowed over the years, Tom Aikens’
life is still exhausting. His eyes dart about, his leg taps, his fizzes with
energy: this is not a man who switches off easily. When asked about
relaxation, downtime and work-life balance he laughs as he answers.
“I’ve always said that I don’t really know how to relax, but as time goes
on I think I’m getting a bit better at it. I do still find it really hard to switch
off, even when I’m on holiday. I can’t just lie on the beach and do
nothing. Nowadays it’s not just being in the kitchen, it’s managing all
“A career as a chef can offer a lot: you can be both creative and practical, you’re able
to travel and develop your skill set and because of that there are a vast number of
opportunities open to you.”
the other projects I’m involved in too. My mind is constantly buzzing, completely. Obviously the kitchen is an extremely tough place to
but I don’t think that’s ever going to change.” be, particularly for women, which isn’t right but that is changing,” he
The difference these days though is that he recognises that for replies passionately. “I’d be very proud and I’d do everything I could
his own health and sanity sometimes he needs to force himself to to support them. A career as a chef can offer a lot: you can be both
zone out or walk away, both literally and metaphorically. “One thing creative and practical, you’re able to travel and develop your skill
I’ve learnt is that I have to exercise. Wherever I am in the world, I set and because of that there are a vast number of opportunities
make sure I spend an hour training everyday without fail. I go to the open to you.”
gym if I can, but if that’s not possible I’ll run or something like that – Unsurprisingly Aikens is full of plans for the future and his schedule,
it’s very important for me not just physically but mentally too.” both immediate and for the next year or so is tightly packed. A
Aikens has two young daughters who help – or indeed coerce – much-anticipated collaboration with his twin brother Robert who is
Words: Sarah Price
him into relaxing from time to time too. When he’s not at work they also a chef is very much on the cards and is likely to happen in the
can all often be found in the family kitchen baking up a storm (no US. Back in the UK, Aikens says that there’s the distinct possibility
finicky food here though, cocoa powder and cake sprinkles are the of a return to real high-end cooking in a fine dining set up, which
order of the day). It’s perhaps not surprising that they’ve shown a given that he’s been away from that particular scene for a few years,
natural aptitude for cooking, which makes me wonder how he’d he’s very excited about – and so should we be.
react if one of them wanted to become a chef. “I’d support them potspansandboards.ae
You have truly made your voice heard this year with almost two million votes cast
across the Gulf for this year’s GCC Food and Travel Awards - now discover who
has made the finals!
Cabbage
QUICK KIMCHI
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
h January. A month synonymous us introduce you to one of our hero bright white ribs and healthy-looking green
KIMCHI CHICKEN
KEBABS
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
Now before we go any further, let’s make he debate is still ongoing as to early. This new ilk of savoury porridges,
one thing clear: we’re not claiming the
kimchi recipe that follows is entirely
authentic, nor does it go all the way down
T whether Goldilocks would approve,
but there’s no denying it: savoury
porridge is officially a thing. If the thought of
though? Well they might just do that and
more.
Once you realise that the cooked oats
the lacto-fermented route. Real kimchi, the drizzling anything but honey or syrup over are simply a healthy, thrifty, filling base just
funky stuff that bubbles slightly when you your morning bowl of oats is cause for begging to be customised with all manner
open the jar is days, sometimes even consternation, do give the idea a whirl of toppings, this is an easy idea to get on
weeks, in the making. This version is quick before retreating to the safety offered by board with. As well as our recipe for jammy
to prepare, full of crunch and it has a sweetness. eggs and Asian greens, try sautéed
pleasing fire to it that’s just the right side of Real Scottish traditionalists will of course mushrooms, wilted spinach and a dusting
eye watering. Serve it as a side dish, use it maintain that porridge should be made from of parmesan, honeyed pears with
to take a toasted cheese sandwich to the just oats, water and salt, giving it a savoury gorgonzola or roasted aubergine with tahini
next level, employ as a marinade for meat (and rather austere) edge by default. Let’s dressing and a spoonful of yogurt.
or fish or fold a tablespoon or two through be honest though, that’s not the kind of The great thing about all this is that if you
stir-fried rice. breakfast to ease the pain of getting up begin your day with a bowl of porridge you
Oats
KEY ING REDI EN T:
SAVOURY PORRIDGE
ROSEMARY AND
PARMESAN SEEDED
OAK CRACKERS
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
really have started it the right way for your stream thus preventing spikes in blood achieving the correct ratio of liquid to oats
body. Oats are a good source of sugar levels. Not only that, they’re high in and stirring the mixture frequently as it cooks.
magnesium, which is known to help with protein, contain zinc, potassium and iron Of course, oats have culinary uses far
heart health, and evidence also suggests and will keep you feeling full for far longer beyond porridge. Use them to coat meat or
that consuming magnesium-rich food than sugary cereal will. fish instead of breadcrumbs, add a handful
reduces the risk of type-2 diabetes. The Whether sweet or savoury, the texture of to a smoothie for bulk, sprinkle them over
soluble fibre in oats gives digestive systems your porridge is of the utmost importance: gratins or crumbles before baking, make
a much-needed boost, can lower you want the end result to be creamy and your own granola bars or try our really rather
cholesterol levels and also slows the rich rather than tacky or gluey and the oats moreish nut and seed-packed homemade
absorption of carbohydrates into the blood should retain a little bite. Success lies in rosemary oat cakes.
Simply
SeychellesThe Seychelles; palm-fringed white beaches, balmy waters, lush green
islands and the warm embrace of a golden sun!
SILHOUETTE ISLAND postcard beach. The resort is perched in front of a shallow lagoon
We arrived at Mahé airport, and despite the long flight we were enjoying amazing views towards North Island and Mahé. Most of
given a tonic by the big-hearted hospitality and genuinely friendly the island is a national park, offering unspoilt walking trails, and the
welcome from our driver, who smoothly whisked us through a waters surrounding Silhouette are a marine reserve.
twenty minutes journey along a zigzag of narrow country roads to The stunning villas have a distinct character. The spacious rooms,
the Bel Ombre Jetty, where we were greeted by the reception team with their spectacular ocean views, are tastefully furnished, deep
from Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa, ready for our short soft sofas set by the large picture window, the bathrooms have
45-minute voyage to Silhouette Island which is located just 20 km a separate bathtub, walk-in shower and open up onto a private
northwest of Mahé. garden, complete with private outdoor rain-showers, and of course
We knew that we had arrived at our own little piece of paradise; king-size comfortable beds, all complemented by the light hues
Hilton Seychelles Labriz, a picturesque resort carved out of the lush from a palette of natural colours offering a light airy atmosphere.
tropical mountains that reaches down to the balmy clear waters of Each villa is equipped with every modern convenience including
the Indian Ocean, that sparkle with hints of azure and aquamarine, Wi-Fi, flat screen TVs and DVD players.
gently lapping against the powdery white sand of the picture-perfect The Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort truly offers a glimpse of a
“The resort boasts seven restaurants, including a pizzeria and Grann Kaz,
which is set in an old plantation house”
peaceful life that warmly envelops you in an almost hypnotic sense of the Teppanyaki as well as Italian fine dining at Portobello restaurant.
well-being, only to find that you have basked most of the day away; Breakfast is served at Café Dauban, offering a lavish selection of
lying lazily by the beach, reading a book, swimming in the ocean, or international dishes from dim sum and noodles to cereals and fresh
just sipping on a cool drink while soaking up the sun. There is plenty fruits.
to choose from for those feeling more energetic; take a hike through Grann Kaz is set in a historic plantation house located within its
the rainforest or set out on a kayaking or diving adventure. own private enclave in Village La Passe, just a short stroll away.
The expansive public areas feature acres of polished marble and Once home to the Dauban family, the former owners of the island,
tropical hardwood decking, water features and a natural freshwater the building has been restored with an homage to the island’s rich
lagoon crossed by an arched pedestrian bridge. The staff are warm English and French heritage, and to reflect modern Seychellois
and willing to help, but the service is not especially dynamic; hotel chic, creating an intimate restaurant
facilities include a well-equipped gym, a PADI five-star diving centre Enjoy modern Italian cuisine amidst the contemporary elegant
as well as tennis courts, a large pool, and spa that offers a wide chic décor at Portobello as you enjoy stunning views of Mount
range of treatments and massages. Dauban. Dine in air conditioned comfort, or eat al fresco on the
We decided to go snorkelling, and once the safety procedures terrace beside the tranquil lake.
were covered Once we were given the green light and our Our meal offered mixed-blessings, but on the whole was an
underwater adventure began. The waters were teeming with life; enjoyable experience; the starter of Carpaccio di Manzo - beef
green sea and hawksbill turtles, stingrays, jellyfish, white tip sharks, carpaccio, aged Parmesan and white truffle oil was disappointing,
and variety of tropical fish, including - Butterflyfish, Queen Angelfish, the meat lacked flavour and texture, and was cut too thick; whilst
Hump-head Parrotfish, Regal Tang, Clownfish, Zebrafish, and the Prosciutto, Caprino e Pesca - Parma ham, goat’s cheese and
Napoleon Wrasses to name but a few roast peach salad, was OK, although the goat’s cheese caprine
After the exertions of snorkelling we opted to try the Creole was golden with the right amount of crispy crumb on the outside
cooking class and lunch. To start we made - mango and smoked was totally devoid of any goats cheese on the inside. To follow we
Marlin salad which was an explosion of flavours; we were quite had Costolette di Agnello - grilled lamb chops, aubergine caponata,
surprised to see so many unusual ingredients working so well rosemary potatoes. The meat was served, as requested, medium
together. The fish was delectable, so much so that we’ll be trying with just right amount of pink in the centre, unfortunately the rosemary
this dish at home! For the mains, we made Octopus curry; a native potatoes hard and the vegetables were swimming in oil. Conversely
Seychelles’ dish, and I would highly recommend this to anyone the Spaghetti Bolognese, ordered off-menu; the fresh cooked beef
looking to try something different. For dessert we made Banana ragout and golden spaghetti was a delight. To complete our meal,
Ladob, which was sweet, thick, creamy and rich in flavour. All the we both decided to try the Tiramisu Quasi Classico – a traditional
ingredients complemented each other perfectly, particularly the tiramisu, with vanilla ice cream, which was lovely and creamy with a
cocoa nut milk - really yummy! slight crunchiness and a coating of powdered chocolate. A definite
The resort boasts seven restaurants, including a pizzeria and must have!
Grann Kaz, which is set in an old plantation house, Japanese at www.hiltonseychelleslabriz.com
MAHÉ
Having sampled the delights of Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort
we changed location to the peaceful couples retreat of The Hilton
Seychelles Northolme Resort & Spa which is located on the west
coast of Mahé, and overlooks Beau Vallon Bay. The hotel is a
quiet, secluded couples retreat, and the beach has the feel of a
hidden desert island cove, set in a lush tropical paradise. The al
fresco restaurants and lobby have high wooden ceilings in the
classic Seychellois style. The palette of brown hues and marble
are highlighted with turquoise accents lending an airy feel that lends
itself to a relaxing stay far from the urban bustle of city life. This
romantic atmosphere tends to draw couples, and children under
12 are not allowed.
The Hilton Seychelles Northolme consists of large, private villas,
which all enjoy sea views and have private decks. The Beach
Villas are closer to reception and the resort’s restaurants, whilst the
Hillside Villas are quieter and more secluded; but whatever you pick,
you won’t go wrong. The décor is contemporary chic with swathes
of natural woods, cane and four-poster canopy beds, draped with
white curtains for that romantic touch. The walls are adorned with
vibrant art, the balconies are spacious, and the amenities plentiful,
from flat-screen TVs and DVD players to espresso makers and
mini-bars. The natural bathrooms have free-standing tubs and open
showers and fabulous ocean views.
Nestling beside a strip of white-sand the hotel’s freeform infinity
pool appears to flow into the Indian Ocean; and there are ample sun
beds and beach umbrellas for poolside lounging. If you are looking
for something a little less busy there’s also a free shuttle to nearby
Beau Vallon Beach. On-site activities include free kayaking and
snorkelling, a 24-hour fitness centre loaded with state-of-the-art
cardio and weight equipment, with a private sun terrace for a post-
workout break. Try the yoga pavilion or on-site. Duniye Spa which
offers spa and beauty treatments, including Balinese, Thai, and
Swedish massage along with Reiki energy work. And the hotel’s gift
shop sells clothing, handicrafts, souvenirs, and the usual holiday
necessities such as sunscreen.
There are three restaurants at the resort, Les Cocotiers is a fine-
dining restaurant serving Creole cuisine. The Hilltop Restaurant
serves buffet-style meals, and The Ocean-view Bar and Restaurant
serves snacks, signature cocktails, and fresh fruit juices and often
features live music performances. with 24-hour room service for
those who would rather dine in their villas.
The Hilltop Restaurant enjoy stunning panoramic views. Relax
in the casual, dining room and savour the delights of local and
international buffet menus for breakfast and dinner. Watch the
expert chefs prepare your meal at the live cooking stations and
don’t miss the exciting Creole evening on Mondays with authentic
Creole food and local entertainment. Les Cocotiers Restaurant
offers fine dining under the stars. Eat al fresco restaurant and
enjoy spectacular ocean views as you choose from the à la carte
menu that features a range of Creole-international fusion dishes.
And unwind in the stylish interiors of the Ocean View Bar or on the
decked balcony for views of ocean coves and starlit nights. Sip on
the finest international cocktails and freshly squeezed juices, as the
strains of live music make for the perfect accompaniment to any
sunset.
We dined at Les Cocotiers, to start I had the Coconut Crusted
Shrimp with passion fruit and chilli, the dish was elegantly plated and
the portion size was just right; the coconut crust providing the perfect
foil to each mouthful of moist shrimp with every bite. The vegetables
garnish was just the correct amount of sweet and coated ever so
T H E B E ST
There is no sincerer love than the love of food
GEORGE BERNARD SHAW
W
hen Nick Alvis and Scott Price came up with the menu like the one they implemented at the tail end of 2017,
concept for the food at Folly by Nick & Scott, the is months in the making. Following the initial conception of a
award-winning restaurant that they run in Madinat dish, which might come from a few notes jotted on a piece of
Jumeirah, they did so with a view to doing something a bit paper or a hastily drawn sketch, followed by weeks of recipe
different. Moving away from the now ubiquitous sharing plates testing, tweaking and development. The different elements are
concept they instead created a menu made up of small plates reworked, ingredients experimented with and changes made
(starters are smaller than average, as are mains and the prices until both chefs are happy that the dish deserves a place on
reflect this) which essentially frees you from the rigors of a the Folly menu.
traditional three course meal and encourages diners to put Here Nick and Scott have given Food and Travel readers
together their own tasting menu. exclusive access to the recipes for some of those new dishes
As you can imagine, an almost complete revamp of the entire and also shared their favourite meals when cooking at home.
FOOD FOCUS
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
ROE DEER TARTARE, CHARCOAL AND these are given a bit of a twist and prepared using modern
WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE techniques.
NICK: This recipe is of course based on a classic steak It’s well worth making extra of the cornichons – they’re great
tartare, we simply use roe deer shoulder to make it a little bit added to a cheeseboard and keep for several weeks in a
different. The dish features all the traditional tartare elements sealed jar too. If you can’t get hold of roe deer a lean, tender
– egg yolk, cornichons, Worcestershire sauce, shallots – but cut such as veal sirloin or beef tenderloin will work well too.
TIP
Scoop the sorbet well ahead of serving it and refreeze it on a
baking tray. That way you don’t have to worry about it melting
as you plate the dish up.
ELDERFLOWER AND APPLE than cutting the cheesecake into individual slices you could
CHEESECAKE bring it to the table whole and portion it up from there.
SCOTT: This is a really clean, simple dessert that’s indulgent We like to make our own digestive biscuits, but to save time
without being overwhelming and also acts as a bit of a palette you could always buy them readymade and skip straight to step
cleanser thank to the green apple sorbet. If you prefer, rather three in this recipe.
IN THE SUN
Swedish born Richard Raab, initially wanted to become the captain of an
ocean liner, fortunately for us the loss to the Cruise Ship industry was a big win
for us land-lubbers.
t is clear to anyone who speaks with Richard Raab that he exudes Manager at Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills; the
J
ourneying to the King Lewanika Lodge is not for the We inched our way across and disembarked onto the sandy
faint-hearted. A light aircraft drops you on the airstrip at track which serves as a road in the dry season. When it rains
Kalabo on the edge of the Liuwa Plains, but there’s as and the track disappears beneath the water, the only way to
yet no bridge to get across the river into the national park. reach the lodge is by helicopter.
We drove with painstaking care onto the metal pontoon, our At this point there is still a two-hour drive through the park
Land Cruiser taking up the bulk of the space on-board. A few to go, but as the Land Cruiser bumps and bounces along the
colourfully attired ladies, their equally bright umbrellas up to track there’s plenty to see on the way. First and foremost are
protect them from the rain, squatted alongside as our driver the villages. The Liuwa Plains is one of the oldest protected
and the ferryman pulled hand over hand on the metal cable. areas in Africa — a royal hunting ground since the 1880s —
and the king still designates specific areas for each family thatch covering the roof is exactly the same colour as the
to use. Children ran out to greet us on the road, waving surrounding grasslands. We looped around and approached
enthusiastically. Tourists are, it seems, still quite a novelty here. the lodge from the rear, looking out for a lion lurking in the
But then the villages thin out and the plains stretch as far shadows of the trees.
as the eye can see, with scarcely a thicket or solitary tree A reception committee awaited us, welcome drinks in hand, but
to disturb the horizon. You won’t spot the King Lewanika as we drove in there was a message on the radio: two cheetahs
Lodge until you’re almost on top of it: architects Silvio Rech had been spotted nearby. It was a split-second decision to skip
and Lesley Carstens’ magnificent creation is low rise, built the formalities and tour of our rooms, but the chance of a cheetah
predominantly of natural materials, and the swathe of golden sighting is not something you’d want to miss.
The sun was now sinking, turning the sky a glorious pink.
Eagle-eyed guide Innocent scanned the dusky horizon for any
rapid movement of zebra or wildebeest which might suggest there
was a cheetah in hot pursuit. But in fact all was remarkably peaceful,
and what he ultimately spied was a single head in silhouette, poking
up above the grass. We had long left the sand track behind, but
the vehicle was comfortable enough off road and at this speed the
engine noise was little more than a loud cat’s purr. We came closer,
and closer still. The cheetah, though aware of our presence, was
completely unconcerned, focusing instead into the distance in case
a hare or other small animal was unlucky enough to pass by. We
stepped down from the Land Cruiser and Innocent laid out a table
of drinks and snacks. In the half-light we drank a toast, excitable as
children at what we had just been privileged enough to see.
It was not until the following morning that I fully explored the lodge.
Its arching frame is like the ribcage of a whale or other giant beast,
but as the areas between the beams and struts are completely
open, you hardly realise they are there. No glass obscures your
views of the plains, and the breeze which blows through is most
welcome, especially in the mid-day heat.
The Time +Tide lodge is open plan, and the restaurant area
This page clockwise: The view from the lodge; Family villa; The rain
showers at King Lewanika
The exquisite space and casual atmosphere set the stage for a sophisticated
and luxurious experience
tart your day in style with a leisurely breakfast with Nomad from the Nomad team, expertly led by Alberto Pardo, who brings
S Urban Eatery, the All Day Casual Dining choice for all the right
reasons, delivering a chic dining experience. You will find this
culinary pearl at The Courtyard, located in Bahrain’s Al Seef District.
a wealth of experience from his time with Jamie Oliver and the late
Antonio Carluccio, and chef Steve McGowan whose experience
includes Murano with Gordon Ramsey & Angela Hartnett, and
The restaurant pays meticulous attention to detail, displaying Bibendum, which set it apart from the pack.
flair and its own unique signature style; the exquisite space and If you like to start your day with a healthy breakfast then try the
casual atmosphere set the stage for a sophisticated and luxurious Peanut Butter Acai Bowl, a delightful mixture of fresh strawberries,
experience; but it isn’t just the fine food and décor that impresses banana, almond milk, granola, peanut butter and cocoa nibs, or
at Nomad, the enticing menu and attentive knowledgeable service perhaps spoil yourself with the rich flavours of White Chocolate and
Above: Vibrant interior; Below: Matcha Chai Coffee; Dining area; Shakshouka
This page, clockwise: Acai bowl; Main dining area; Eggs royale; Breakfast bao.
This spread, left to right; Sergio Herman; The Jane restaurant in Antwerp, Belgium; Jane dessert; Sergio Herman.
Housed in a former chapel of a military hospital, it has already been hard and keep my two feet on the ground,” says Herman. “I think he
awarded two Michelin stars and delivers mind-blowing flavours saw I had potential very quickly but he never told me to my face. He
that are both simple and sophisticated. But Herman appears to was very strict, but at the same time he was great to work with and
once again be ready for a major change. “I closed Oud Sluis and I we never fought in the kitchen. “My dad taught me all the basics
went immediately into The Jane, and I missed my family during that and he is definitely me mentor. But he had a hard life and I saw my
period,” he says. “I went immediately 200 kilometres an hour into parents work extremely hard so I wasn’t always sure I would follow
the next project and that wasn’t good. “I have only realised now that in his footsteps. “But I had a moment of clarity when working at a
is wasn’t a good thing and that I should have just taken a breath and two Michelin star restaurant in Holland. They were very happy with
had six months or a year where I could just wake up a little bit. “Now me and in that moment I realised I wanted to go for it.”
I want to go back to a very small restaurant, something very special It is now close to 30 years since Herman chose to become a chef
It is clear from the way that Herman speaks that moving on from
his beloved Oud Sluis was the correct decision. He talks with great
pride about his family and clearly enjoys being able to watch his
oldest son play football. Now he can even join in the conversation
with the fellow proud parents as his mind is no longer constantly
occupied by thoughts of his restaurant. Yet it seems the story of
Sergio Herman is not yet complete and as he sits more than 500
metres above downtown Dubai it is clear he is anxious to start
another new chapter.
The Jane may be bringing yet more recognition and providing
the Dutch master chef with the chance to spend more time with his
family, but there is a part of Herman that craves a new challenge.
And it seems a new project could soon be selected. “I have the
feeling that there is an opportunity to start something special in
another city,” he adds. “I am looking for a venue that reflects my
character. I am not a bling bling guy and I prefer more pureness
and a more raw style of architecture. “The building has to give me
the right feeling and I have to be able to find the right staff. But as
always, I will follow my gut. I know no other way.”
I the 122nd floor of the Burj Khalifa to a great deal of fanfare. Billing
itself as the highest restaurant in the world and guaranteeing
breath-taking views of virtually the entire city, it certainly had a
and knowledgeable, helping guide you through the menu and very
quickly bring out a signature cocktail and small but flavourful amuse
bouche to start your experience.
unique selling point. Yet I struggled to find a friend, colleague or even The menu itself has a wide variety of dishes but does cater
acquaintance who had dined 442 metres above downtown Dubai. for those with deep pockets, especially when it comes to those
Perhaps the restaurant’s promise of delivering far more than just an who prefer seafood and steaks. The 11+ Japanese wagyu sirloin
exceptional view had not been met. Or perhaps the controversial is inordinately priced at $250, while the cold and warm seafood
minimum charge when first opened had proved off putting. Still, I platters will set you back $260 should you choose to accompany it
made my way to the restaurant without any preconceptions and with grilled blue lobster tail. Even without the lobster be prepared to
was looking forward to sampling high-quality food that would match pay $210 for crab legs, scallops, oysters and salmon when opting
the jaw-dropping views. for the cold seafood tower. However, there is an a la carte menu
Certainly there is little doubt that anyone arriving will not be and it is here that you will find dishes that do provide more value
impressed after zooming up the high-speed lift and being greeted for your money.
by floor-to-ceiling windows that provide a unique view of the I decided to ask for the opinion of my waiter who was more than
ever-evolving city. The restaurant itself is on the small side and happy to recommend several dishes and eventually settled upon
is somewhat monotone, with mahogany and plush red hues the blue lobster. Beautifully presented, the smoked beetroot and
dominating the space. There are also a limited number of tables by carrot still retained a crunch, as did the small caraway crackers.
the window, with these tending to accommodate smaller groups. A light horseradish quenelle added some much-needed spice to
Unlike the lounge which featured a live violinist, the music in the the salad, but the portion of lobster was somewhat of a let-down.
restaurant is very much ambient and there is no doubt that this Expecting that wonderful meaty texture and subtle shellfish flavour,
is a fine-dining restaurant with the vast majority of patrons having instead I was greeted by a stringy and tough first bite that clearly
LA VINOTECA I
f you are looking for that somewhere special to enjoy a romantic
meal, a sophisticated business lunch, or a family brunch with that
added touch of European flair, then the chic classic style of La
Vinoteca Barcelona is for you; not only a designer ambiance but
BARCELONA
gourmet cuisine too.
The casual yet elegant charm of La Vinoteca Barcelona offers
a rare Spanish gastronomic treat; distinctive tapas and plates of
classic and modern Spanish favourites provide an unforgettable
BAHRAIN
experience. The stylish and relaxed restaurant celebrates the
passionate culture and gastronomy of Spain, delivering a selection
of Mediterranean tapas and signature dishes prepared from quality
produce by Spanish chefs.
Led by the unbridled culinary talents of chef Joan Gomez and his
Inspiring cuisine and chic gifted kitchen brigade, La Vinoteca Barcelona stands out as one of
Bahrain’s fine dining destinations, located in the heart of Bahrain’s
Mediterranean style; La Vinoteca Block 338. The new menu features both traditional and modern
Barcelona offers an authentic inspired interpretations of Spanish plates such as tantalising tapas
and pintxos, patatas bravas, croquetas and mojama; and signature
Spanish dining experience dishes such as a classic paella, evoking the distinct flavours of Iberia.
Management by Design
Sandra Tikal, GM Palazzo Versace Dubai
Francesca Jackson discovered what it takes to hold the tiller of Dubai’s most
iconic luxury destination from Chief Operating Officer of ENSHAA Hospitality
Division & General Manager Palazzo Versace Dubai, Sandra Tikal
legant, charming and deeply passionate about her work, their youngest Deli Manageress. It was a fabulous education and an
Lima Dubai is a casual restaurant that offers modern Peruvian cuisine from award-
winning chef Virgilio Martinez; his Central restaurant in Lima, Peru is rated as the
No.1 restaurant in Latin America, and No.5 on the ’World’s 50 Best Restaurants’
global list; and Lima London has already garnered a Michelin Star.
he menu is global Peruvian cuisine, served in a casual way. Gatling gun; the words blurred into one-another. Information overload
MAINS
LAMB SECO Slow-cooked lamb, Pumpkin two ways, Kiwicha,
Coriander marinade. The lamb was unctuous and tender; and the
pumpkin cream made the dish, with its layers of rich and sumptuous
flavours. Hats off to the chef!
CHICKEN BREAST PACHAMANCA Sautéed potatoes, Corn
brûlée, Pachamanca sauce. The chicken had a hint of mint which
was unusual yet inviting at the same time, and the sautéed potatoes
were buttery and melted on your tongue. Possibly not to everyone’s
palette but definitely a dish to try, if just to experience the unique blend
CATCH OF THE DAY The fresh meaty morsels of salty seabass of textures and flavours that will leave you thinking.
were flavoursome, and perfectly balanced by the red onions and
Cancha corn, which added a welcome crunch to the dish and gave DESSERTS
it a nice earthy finish. If you are looking for something a bit different CREME BRÛLÉE The indulgent delicate creamy overtones of the
do try this! brûlée was simply delicious!
CEVICHE SALMON Fresh Salmon, Yellow tiger milk, Beetroot and CHOCOLATE BOX Aesthetically pleasing strawberry lollies
Asparagus Tempura. Not the best of dishes, the flesh was opaque, dipped in dark chocolate - They were sensational - the flavours
firm and slightly chewy and overpowered by the tangy, citrusy, yellow were in harmony and resurrected many happy childhood memories!
tiger milk sauce - which was extremely hot; having lost its battle with Thank-you!
the fryer- the over-battered asparagus showed scant resemblance to CHOCOLATE MOUSSE An absolutely perfect dark chocolate
this most noble of vegetables. fondant heaven! Definitely one for all the chocoholics out there!
TRADITIONAL CHICKEN CAUSA Yellow Potato, Chicken Breast,
Peruvian olives. Again the presentation of this dish was exquisitely Although there were a few issues, and a couple of the dishes were
executed; the attention to detail evident. The first thing to hit your perhaps wanting, it was an overall enjoyable experience and I look
taste-buds is a citrusy kick from the sauce. The textures are soft and forward to my next a visit to experience the main menu – and If you
creamy and the aftertaste quite sharp – which seemed to overpower are looking for a chic destination with a memorable atmosphere, then
the chicken. you should certainly pay a visit to Lima Dubai.
PRAWNS ANTICUCHO Marinated with the traditional Inka Panka Lima Dubai is located in The Square, City Walk; The Peruvian
Chilli, corn cake. The mouth-watering aromas were reflected Expedition Brunch set 5-course sharing menu is served every
beautifully in the marinated sauce. You could taste the freshness of Friday from 12 noon till 4pm, with prices starting at $90pp for the
the prawns followed by a delightful smoky barbecue aftertaste. non-alcoholic brunch and $125pp for the alcoholic option. For more
VEGETARIAN CHIFA RICE Chinese style rice, Mushrooms, Spring information contact: reservations@limadubai.com, +971 56 500
Onion, Asparagus and Broccoli. The rice was fluffy light and sticky, 4571 or visit www.limadubai.com
he ambient music was fusion. Mainly steelpan, ripsaw and the consumed in the US are imported. Conch harvesting is prohibited
local ripsaw music. And got into the rake and scrape. Bracing the
saw on his thigh, handle side up, a dude in dreadlocks and a snood
scraped a knife along his 11-point edge. A friend called Dezzie
jammed along, using a screwdriver as his plectrum and making a big
play of his teeth. They bent and wobbled together.
Ripsaw music originated in the Middle and North Caicos and
found its way to the Bahamas. The saw is the national instrument of or “belongers” are descendants of African slaves brought over by
the island as the conch is its official marine animal. loyalists from Georgia and South Carolina to grow cotton and sisal.
Along with the spiny lobster and the flamingo, the conch has pride It’s their cultural heritage which is celebrated at the islands’ annual
of place on the islands’ coat of arms. It must be the world’s only conch jamboree.
heraldic mollusc. Terry Morris from Grand Turk won the prestigious conch knocking
Columbus discovered conch on the Turks & Caicos islands in or shucking title, opening thirteen humanely and without significant
1492. He described the shells as “the size of a calf head”. Provo mutilation in the allotted five minutes. A half-hour flight away from
has the world’s only commercial conch farm and you can go on a Provo is seven-mile long by one wide Grand Turk is the administrative
tour and learn all you ever wanted to know but were afraid to ask capital of the British Dependent Territory. Cockburn Town is a
about edible trumpets. charmingly sleepy place where a tailback means two bicyclists
Like all parts are edible. Except the shell. The conch is called stopping to talk to each other down Front Street.
“Titan’s Trumpet”. It is reputed to be the instruments most favoured Pillory Beach is where Columbus made his landfall. As did the late
by mermaids and mermen. astronaut John Glenn. In 1962. The National Museum possesses
Provo, 550 miles from Florida, is becoming increasingly known for the hull and rigging of the Molasses Reef”, the oldest shipwreck in
its realty, its marina townhouses and its “new paradigms of home the New World. The 150-year-old lighthouse was made in Britain
ownership”. And its “private enclaves of luxurious condominium and transported over. The only bright lights you will see will be on a
residences.” Accommodation ranges from plush sprawling five-star, glow worm cruise.
all-inclusive stalags with well-rehearsed super-casual staff and as- Goatskin drums announced the headline act, hipster saw hero
much-as-you-can-heap-on-one-plate buffets to marvellous B&B Wenty Rigby. The “Caicos Slings”, Dirty Bananas” and “Fuzzy
establishments. Buccaneers” kept on coming. Trumpets build up a thirst.
The up-market package hotels boast “exclusive bathroom Soon we were all “wined-up” and dancing the local dance,” The
amenities” (free shampoo), foyer boutiques and market themselves Wine”. There is “The Conch” too.
as “hideaways for romantic exclusionists”. Which involves a lot of swaying and hooking your foot behind your
Provo is developing fast. It saw its first car in 1964. The locals ankle. Which drinking mojitos does too.
BREAD
Gluten is deemed the social pariah of food now: everybody’s on
a Gluten Free diet. But not all flours are grown, or ground, equal.
Dozens of studies demonstrate that glutencontaining foods whole-
wheat, rye and barley are essential for good health and for the
This spread, left to right: Artisan bread; Homemade Nutella; Poached eggs; Butter; Portion of chips; Filet wedge.
98% of people (yup, that many of us don’t need to avoid the stuff) been associated with many diseases, including cardiovascular
that don’t have gluten issues, those same whole grains—which do disease, cancer and osteoporosis. Dairy from grass-fed cows is
contain gluten (did I mention that?) — are linked to a reduced risk of particularly rich in vitamin K2 so in the end, happy cows mean
heart disease, diabetes, obesity, and cancer and here’s why: gluten happy health. Additionally, butter contains short and medium chain
helps boost immune function. After less than a week on added fats which are metabolized differently from other fats. They lead
gluten protein, volunteers of one study showed increased natural to improved satiety (that is, you’ll feel fuller, longer) and ironically
killer cell activity, which could help us fight cancer and viral increased fat burning.
infections. Another study found that high gluten bread improved And replacing butter with margarine compounds the loss of ‘good’
triglyceride levels more effectively than regular bread. And yet fats that come with butter especially the stuff that comes from those
another study see what I mean: dozens of them found that a month contented grass-fed cows: margarine is highly processed and
on a glutenfree diet may reduce (our natural, healthy, important) gut chock full of harmful trans fats; in one study, scientists examined
flora and immune function, potentially setting those on glutenfree the effects of butter and margarine on cardiovascular disease
diets up for an overgrowth of harmful bacteria in their intestines. Margarine significantly increased the risk of cardiovascular disease,
Why? Because the very components wheat sensitive people have while butter had no effect.
problems with, like FODMAP and fructans, may act as probiotics Butter also contains butyrate. Science suggests butyrate prevents
and feed our good bacteria. weight gain on an unhealthy diet by increasing energy expenditure
So, there you are. Have a piece of that delicious, freshly baked and reducing food intake (see: there’s that satiety and fat burning
bread, hot out of the oven, infusing the kitchen with its warm life- thing again) and lends an anti-inflammatory component.
affirming scent. And slather it with butter. Yup. Really: butter, not Grass fed butter, is a great source of a fatty acid called
some sweaty yellow goo in a tub masquerading as the Real Thing. Conjugated Linoleic Acid which has a positive effect on metabolism
and is actually sold ironies abound as a weight loss supplement.
BUTTER So whilst it is not advisable to wait for your toast to cool and then
Butter is the ultimate in unhealthy: the shameful fat face of obesity top it with butter cut to cheese slice thickness (as my father did), it’s
and rampant appetites, blamed for everything from heart disease perfectly OK recommended even to spread it on warm bread so
to high cholesterol. But butter’s reputation is undeserved. Sure, it’s its richness sinks deep in and is evident in your first bite.
high in fat but that’s not altogether a bad thing. Fat means fat soluble
vitamins which means A, E and K2. K2 is a fairly hard vitamin to find, EGGS
butter is a primary and valuable source of K2 which has health Egg white omelettes. Ever eaten one? Ever heard of anything so
benefits. It is involved in calcium metabolism and a low intake has insipidly patently pointless?
Persecuted by the persistent myth that dietary cholesterol should is soft and kind. And potatoes, for their unassuming modesty are
be avoided, egg yolks have had bad press since the seventies. a powerful food, low on phytic acid they are easily digested but
For years we’ve been warned to discard the yolks. However, the simultaneously jam-packed with vitamins and minerals, you’d be
reality is that by discarding the yolk, you’re denying yourself the hard pressed to find so economically packaged a food at the same
most nutrient dense part of this incredible food. There is little to no price.
evidence that links egg yolks with heart disease, if anything, they One of the nutritional benefits of eating potatoes is their vitamin
protect against it. A single egg packs 6g of protein for the cost of B6, content. B6 helps your body produce neurotransmitters which
just 80 calories and provides 13 essential nutrients, all in the yolk; a afford communication between nerve cells, as well as between
whole egg is a rich source of protein, providing a complete range of nerves and muscles. Eating a large potato provides your body with
amino acids, omega3 fatty acids, B vitamins, vitamin D, vitamin A, 98% of your body’s recommended daily intake of this important
selenium, and magnesium. vitamin. They’re also rich in Vitamin C, the same potato will give you
Eggs, far from being the demons of the breakfast table, are a quarter of your daily requirement of Vitamin C which helps protect
actually a mean, lean protein packed machine, delivered in an you from cancer and strokes.
incredibly clever totally bio degradable capsule designed by Mother As to the other nutrients, potatoes contain manganese which
Nature herself. That, surely, has got to prove they’re a good thing. supports metabolism and bone health and potassium which is
imperative for muscle function and a healthy nervous system.
CHIPS Recent studies suggest that potatoes may be an especially
Ok. Not Chips exactly, but Potatoes. important food given our highly stressed contemporary lives.
Another innocent staple banished needlessly from the supper Scientists at the UKs Institute for Food Research have identified
table by those No and Low Carb zealots. But potatoes are a blood pressure lowering compounds, kukoamines, in potatoes.
wonderful food: humble, generous. The ultimate in warm, floury Avoid the deep fat fryer, instead mash them with low fat Greek
comfort eating. It’s the way we cook them that’s key: chuck them yogurt, top a baked spud with broccoli (we can’t avoid it altogether)
into a deep fryer with week old fat and you’re not doing to do them and sea salt or dress a potato salad with roasted garlic and olive oil.
or yourself much good but bake them with their skins on, split them
open and add a knob of butter, see above, and you are transported A (QUALITY) FATTY CUT OF MEAT
to some safe, soulrestoring place where everything in the world The myth remains that all fatty meat is bad and we ought only eat
lean meat that means no crispy bacon, no gloriously marbled beef, good reasons to eat it in mindful moderation chocolate contains
no browned, salted pork crackling. But in truth both are important flavonoids, substances known to have anti-inflammatory effects
in our diet. For years, we have been warned to focus on muscle and antioxidant properties that help mop up disease prompting
meats chicken breasts and lean cuts of beef but avoiding the odd agents in the body. It’s also full of the amino acid tryptophan, which
cuts of meat (moderation, remember) is completely unnecessary. is an essential ingredient in the production of the happy hormone,
Chicken legs, thighs, wings and even skin are whole foods that the neurotransmitter serotonin. As well as tryptophan, chocolate
can be incorporated into a healthy diet, as well as rich cuts of beef contains phenyl ethylamine which the body converts to dopamine,
brisket, shanks, ribs, lamb shoulder, even bacon. Think about it, which helps us experience pleasure.
traditional cultures (pre-the contemporary low carb, gluten free, fat Dark chocolate is especially good for us so good in fact that four
free, clean eating, green juicing brigade) did not have the option squares a day are virtually prescribed. Researchers in Switzerland
read time or luxury to pick and choose what cuts of meat they and one must assume they know their stuff report that eating dark
wanted to eat, they used the whole animal. The benefit of these chocolate every day for two weeks reduces stress hormones,
richer sources of meat is that they contain higher amounts of fat- including cortisol, even in super anxious people. There is an
soluble vitamins A, D, E and K2, as well as glycine (from skin, abundance of global research that proclaims chocolate is a sound
bones, cartilage) which is an important amino acid that plays a role dietary choice (not one of our five or is it seven a day admittedly,
in nearly every part of the body. but almost): the Swedes established that eating 45g a week
We don’t get all these goodies from smugger, leaner cuts of reduced stroke risk, the boffins at Cambridge seem to agree; a
meat. But when it comes to fatty cuts of meat, do consider the team of Italian scientists found that eating small amounts increases
quality of the cut: conventional sources might not contain a well- insulin sensitivity which reduces the diabetes risk; German scientists
balanced omega 3 to 6 ratio, so do like Butter and opt for happy believe that the flavanols in dark chocolate could protect women’s
grassfed animals. skin from the sun’s UV rays and British psychologists found that
And whilst you do that, whilst you’re in your local butcher’s those same flavanols can render a person more numerical but as
considering a rolled sirloin for your Sunday Roast, admiring the one who has never been able to add up despite a lifetime of nightly
dense flesh, ribboned with white fat, whilst trying not to salivate chocolate, I’m not sure I agree with this one.
guiltily, remember that we’ve been trying to reduce animal fats in The last word must go to French woman Jeanne Louise Calment
our diets for thirty years but we’re not healthier, we’re just heavier. who was born in 1875 long before people conceived of green,
clean, lectin/lactose/gluten/fat/funfree food who apparently ate a
AND, SAVING THE BEST TILL LAST ... kilo of dark chocolate every week and lived to be 122. I bet she
CHOCOLATE. ate baguettes in abundance, enjoyed butter, steak, cream and
Chocolate is rich in fat and sugar so that’s not it must be said cheese in happy-go-lucky pre-animal fat anxiety days and slugged
altogether a good thing but, and it’s a big BUT, there are loads of Bordeaux regularly too.
excavation machinery, were able to dig these caves and tunnels and
make them last for future generations to discover. Cavernous rooms,
some as tall as two fully-grown adults, would most certainly have been
difficult to create, and this is what makes Derinkuyu underground city
one of the world’s most spectacular sights.
5,=Ǹ,/09<5+,9.96<5+*/<9*/
In the town of NevĒehir, archaeologists have discovered one of
the world’s largest and best preserved underground churches.
The archaeologists working on the regeneration of NevĒehir Castle
were not expecting to discover a 360,000-square metre church
deep underneath, and most importantly, did not expect to find
preserved frescoes and wall paintings that shed some light on
Orthodox Christianity in the Anatolia region in the 5th century AD.
The cavernous ceiling and intricately carved walls of the church
have been painted with frescoes of the crucifixion of Jesus, the
Ascension to Heaven, and showing the faces of saints that have
long been forgotten. These paintings are some of the oldest
Christian paintings in the world, perhaps some of the oldest
a cruciform plan church and a missionary school with individual displaying the key parts of Christian faith.
rooms set aside for lessons. Nearby there were also rooms for NevĒehir’s underground church shows that the settlers of
holding the dead and discarded food and broken pottery until they Cappadocia’s subterranean cities had everything that they needed
could be taken to the surface when conditions were safer. to lead their lives deep underneath the modern-day cities that we
There is also a huge bathhouse complete with towering ceilings know today.
to allow steam to rise, and a system of shafts and false doors
that could be moved whenever necessary to trick invaders skilled *(77(+6*0(»: <5+,9.96<5+ *0;0,:
enough to find their way into Turkey’s subterranean world. It is ;6+(@
impossible to know whether these ancient tricks worked, but they Unlike most places in the world, Turkey has not abandoned
are impressive nonetheless. its Bronze Age settlements completely, with the extensive
Derinkuyu would have been a vast and impressive city above underground tunnel systems coming to life with the entrepreneurial
ground, but underground it is more so. When you take the steep endeavours of locals living in the region.
steps down to the first floor of the hidden city, the first thing that comes The tunnel systems rarely get above 13 degrees Celsius, so they
to mind is questions about how ancient Anatolians, without modern are great for keeping fruit and vegetables fresh. In underground
experience, with 7 full caves houses and 40 rooms carved into the
side of the mountains in the village of Urgup. Some of the carved
rooms date back to the 5th century AD, and the main building was
a 19th century Greek mansion.
Flickering lights illuminate roughly carved walkways between the
low carved bedroom doors, and natural shapes in the mountains
allow strips of light to flow through at sunrise and sunset, creating
heavenly glows right across the hotel compound. There is even a
heated outdoor swimming pool carved between the rocks.
The bedrooms are all uniquely decorated, some standard
rooms, some larger family rooms, and others full cave houses
available to rent. Naturally coloured walls, complete with striped
patterns that have emerged over centuries. There are marble floors
in each room, marble bathroom fittings, handcrafted lace curtains,
tunnels near Ortahisar, more than 6 metres of crates filled with antique cupboards and tables, traditional bed coverings, antique
fresh lemons line the floor, being transported from Turkey’s lights, and impressive kilim carpets. There is nowhere quite like
Mediterranean coast and stored for up to 4 weeks until they are Yunak Evleri hotel, and there is nowhere else in the region where
transported to markets in Europe, Russia, and further afield. you can live like locals once lived millennia ago.
Cappadocia’s modern uses of the underground passageways Cappadocia is a special place to experience at any time of the
do not stop at lemon storage – thousands of tonnes of apples, year. Underground tunnels offer a glimpse into a subterranean
oranges, pears, potatoes, cabbages and cauliflowers are also life that has largely disappeared. Miles of tunnels link cities tens
hidden right underground the feet of the thousands of locals and of metres under the feet of modern Anatolia, connecting rooms
visitors venturing to the region every year. that were once filled to the top with wine and food, families eating
together around open fires, and people getting on with their lives
YUNAK EVLERI CAPPADOCIA as wars were fought above ground.
Tourists visiting Cappadocia who want to experience what it is like The underground cities of Cappadocia may only be a tourist
living in the caves and tunnels of the region should really stay in attraction and place for storing food today, but the region has
the Yunak Evleri Cappadocia hotel. The hotel truly is a magical many hidden and impressive secrets just waiting to be discovered.
happy time.” she observed. walks around the mall.” offered Dowling.
Over the coming years Dowling worked tirelessly learning her trade, “The market in Bahrain is tough – the hotel business in London
with time at Holiday Inn, Scandic, and Metropole Hotels, leading to is more transactional, whereas here it very much about relationship
her first role as GM at the iconic five-star London Marriott County management, making the personal touch even more important”
Hall. “At that time, there was nothing else in the area – the London she stated. “There are some differences compared to the UK; the
Eye was just opening – but I had a marvellous few years watching market-cycles are shorter here, tending to change every 12-18
the metamorphosis of the area.” said Dowling. Her success was month, as consumers seek new concepts. There is a strong appetite
noticed and Dowling became GM at another two iconic London for eating out – and new openings are definitely well patronised, at
properties, the Meriden Piccadilly and Café Royale. After 5 years the weekend at least.”
with Meridien, Dowling decided for a change of pace and went to Whilst technology is starting to play a larger part in the industry
Jersey, in the Channel Islands to join a small private 5-star hotel – and smart phones becoming more prevalent in our daily live, guests
The Grand, on the Esplanade in St Helier. “I spent two wonderful can become less reliant on talking to people. “We try and track
years there, but the owners decided to sell the property and I felt it people’s preferences – and deliver some little wow factors. Little
was probably time for a change.” commented Dowling. things like folding a towel into the shape of a shirt and laying their
After a 2-year stint as GM of Royal Horseguards Hotels in London tie on it. A nice touch that adds that little extra care for our guests.”
Dowling took a 10-month career break to re-charge her batteries observes Dowling.
Getting to Gibraltar
Winston Churchill Avenue, one of the main roads that connects
the sea front to the north of the territory, is a unique phenomenon
in Europe. The road crosses Gibraltar Airport’s runway, so you
can get a front seat view of flights taking off and landing when
you stop at the road barrier.
Gibraltar International Airport is a relatively small airport,
mainly connecting to British airports, with British Airways flights
to London Heathrow and easyJet flights to London Gatwick,
Manchester and Bristol. There are also several flights each week
to Tangier and Casablanca in Morocco with Royal Air Maroc
Express.
As a coastal town, Gibraltar is heavily reliant on its port, with
several cruise ships calling at the Port of Gibraltar every week.
There is also a marina with regular trips out to sea and visits by
some of the world’s most luxurious yachts.
Gibraltar is a haven of history, telling the story of centuries
of European history. Its natural sights, historical attractions, and
furry residents make this a unique and unforgettable destination.
Gibraltar is Britain in the sun.
This spread, left to right: Gibraltar; Mosque; Wildlife; The Great Seige tunnels.
400 years, despite several skirmishes between Muslim and best-preserved Moorish bathhouses in Europe. The Romanesque
Christian armies, the territory was turned into a grand fortress that baths was built in the 14th century as a place for Islamic settlers to
many thought could never be infiltrated. One of the most striking cleanse themselves, but today is no less impressive than it once
attractions, with some of the most spectacular views in southern would have been. The central chamber, with its 16-sided vaulted
Europe, is the Moorish Castle compound, a medieval fortification roof, is impressive, and the dimly lit archways and columns cast
comprising several buildings, gates, towers, and heavily fortified shadows that could easily be mistaken as the ghosts of Moorish
walls. warriors bathing away their sorrows.
The domineering white and yellow sand coloured Tower of
Homage is the tallest Islamic tower in Europe and the Kasbah BRITAIN IN THE SUN
building is the largest in the area. Not only is the tower an important As Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory, and has been since 1704
factor in Moorish Europe, it also offers views right across Gibraltar, when a joint Anglo-Dutch naval force liberated the town, there are
“There are impressions dented into the soft stone walls that were made by
the cannonballs of invading forces trying to push the Moors and then the
British out of the territory.”
out to the port and busy sea lanes, and into Spain in the north. many typically English traditions that take place throughout the year,
Defences and batteries line the top of the castle, with heavy and some of Gibraltar’s most famous landmarks could easily be
metal cannons facing out to sea in preparation for invasions, and mistaken for those on a street in central London.
legendary Macaque monkeys can be seen climbing and swinging The Convent building, located at the southern end of Main Street,
on the walls. There are impressions dented into the soft stone walls has been home to the British Governor of the territory since 1728,
that were made by the cannonballs of invading forces trying to push before which it was a convent for Franciscan Friars since 1531. The
the Moors out of the territory. palatial terracotta-orange building, complete with a grand covered
Just off the main street, opposite the Cathedral of St. Mary the entrance and large sash windows is an impressive sight. A few
Crowned, the basement of Gibraltar Museum is home to one of the days a week a guard mount ceremony takes place, with soldiers
Words by: Joe Worthington. Photos by: iStock; Gibraltar Tourism; F&T
Several times a year, a typically British military ceremony takes reported seeing the ghostly figure of a woman walking the corridors
place outside of The Convent building. The changing of the guard and disappearing.
ceremony sees soldiers marching in unison along Main Street,
accompanied by trumpets and drums. There are few places in TUNNELS OF GIBRALTAR
the world where you can witness a British changing of the guard Under the streets of Gibraltar and inside its famous rock, there
ceremony and be guaranteed warm and sunny weather – but in is a warren of hidden tunnels that were excavated by the British
Gibraltar that is just what you will find! between the 18th and 20th centuries. Tunnelling first began in 1782
Next to The Convent building is King’s Chapel, a white square during the Great Siege to provide somewhere for British soldiers
Church of England chapel that was once badly damaged by an to hide from attack, and somewhere to store food, munitions,
explosion of a munitions ship in the late 18th century. Today, the and to provide easy access for secret communications between
semi-domed cavernous ceiling glows from the chandelier lights and messengers watching the Strait of Gibraltar for enemy ships and the
the reflection from the sun shining though the large arched windows. military headquarters further inland.
The Convent building is believed by some to be haunted by the Another legend that has been disproven, but many still believe is
ghost of a nun known as “Lady in Grey”. The ghost is said to wander true, is the existence of a tunnel deep under the Strait of Gibraltar,
the corridor outside of the guest room, where visiting dignitaries sleep, connecting Gibraltar to Cap Spartel near Tangier in Morocco.
where she was walled in centuries ago. Legend suggests that the Roman god and hero Hercules supposedly stayed in the Caves
daughter of a wealthy Spanish nobleman married against her father’s of Hercules on the north Moroccan coast and built a bottomless
wishes, so he forced her to join the Convent of Santa Clara, whose tunnel to Gibraltar, coming out at St. Michael’s Cave, a 300-metre-
building can be seen on Main Street. The woman’s husband joined tall multi-coloured cave that is visited by more than 1 million visitors
the Franciscan Order, based in The Convent building, to be close every year. The cave is just one of 150 inside the rock of Gibraltar.
to her and to plan their escape. The woman tried to escape one Today, visitors can go on guided tours deep into the rock of
This spread, left to right: Airport main highway; Cable car; The Rock
Hotel; World War 2 Tunnels; Moorish Castle.
A popular legend that has existed for more than a century holds
that if the monkeys leave the rock, then British rule in Gibraltar will
end. During the Second World War, when the monkey population
fell to just seven monkeys, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill
Gibraltar, following in the footsteps of the thousands of British ordered that more monkeys be taken from Morocco and Algeria to
soldiers who once spent days at a time hiding and living inside. replenish the numbers on the rock. Whether this legend is true or
At the start of the Second World War, the civilian population was not, locals take it seriously and take good care of their monkeys.
evacuated, and the tunnels were expanded to house troops
escaping from aerial bombardment. You need to book in advance BIRD’S EYE VIEW
for tunnel tours, but clambering through the dimly lit underground The views from across Gibraltar are spectacular, but from 412
hideaways, which are large enough to house 16,000 soldiers and metres above ground on the cable car they are simply unforgettable.
16 months of food, a bakery, a hospital, a vehicle maintenance The cable car takes just six minutes to travel from the ground station
workshop, communications room, and water distillation plant, is an at the southern end of Main Street to the Top Station on the rock of
experience unlike any other. Gibraltar. From the cable cars you can see two continents, Europe
and Africa, three countries, and two bodies of water.
GUARDIANS OF THE ROCK The Top Station is the perfect launching point for exploring the
Perhaps the most peculiar attraction in Gibraltar is the large 300-strong nature reserve, St. Michael’s Cave, the Great Siege Tunnels, and
colony of wild Barbary Macaque monkeys. It is thought that the cheeky the Moorish Castle. Most of Gibraltar’s famous monkeys also live at
monkeys first arrived in Gibraltar during the Moorish period, and they the top of the rock, so you are never more than six minutes away
have thrived in the Upper Rock Nature Reserve, at the top of Gibraltar’s from meeting the territory’s most famous residents – just be careful
famous 426 metre rock at the centre of the territory. as they can be unpredictable, and are expert pickpockets!
Once the introductions were out of the way, it was down to the home. This was in no short measure down to the chef’s love of
task of cooking. First up was learning how to make classic Italian cooking, which is infectious, but also the informal atmosphere
tiramisu. While Romain took us through the process, which he of that has been created at Chef’s Palette. As a novice it was a
course made look very simple, all of the ingredients and every great introduction to cooking and the fact that the class can be
kitchen aid we needed were set up by the Chef’s Palette team. tailored to a group or individual’s level makes it even more
Even though the starter is largely prepared by the chef, there appealing. So whether you want to be hands on or simply watch
is a chance to be hands on for those who want to learn a bit a top chef in action, there is something for everyone to enjoy.
more. While a cream of mushroom soup had already been www.fairmont.com/palm-dubai/dining/the-chefs-palette
The ultimate family brunch Dubai its Exeter Street home to make way for Robert De Niro’s new boutique
hotel, The Wellington. Since 1977 the beloved American brasserie has
our weekend in Dubai isn’t complete without the perfect been drawing in luvvies, who came for diner classics done with panache
G lobal Gourmet
SkyKitchen BERLIN
On the 13th floor of the stylish Vienna House Andel’s Berlin hotel, towering high Midway, peanut- and curry-infused
above the rooftops of the German capital, the city’s youngest Michelin-starred Ibérico hock is as succulent as it is tasty.
chef Alexander Koppe creates ultramodern interpretations of classic European ‘Fruit of the Gods’ – blood orange, pomelo and kumquat cleanses the palate,
dishes. A master of his craft, his ethos is to spice up quality local ingredients with preparing it for gutsy venison with rowan berries. When it comes to dessert,
a pinch of international influence to create a culinary journey around the globe. apple strudel features contemporary notes of hay for a twist on a local favourite.
Expect to explore many facets of flavour over Koppe’s 11-course menu. Afterwards, a digestif should be quaffed at Skybar on the 14th floor where the
Scallops with aloe vera, cucumber and nori enliven your taste buds and lead drinks list shines as brightly as the city below. SW. +49 30 453 053 2620,
on to tender beef dressed with caviar, black radish and shiso plum. skykitchen.berlin
7ELEPHANTS Dubai
DIFC’s newest brunch takes you on a culinary voyage of discovery with 7Elephants
Friday Brunch. Enjoy the signature plates from the 7 traders: Indian, Balinese,
Arabic, British, Italian, Spanish and Mexican. It’s an east meets west explosion of
flavours from different nations covering some of the biggest culinary capitals of the
world. From the iconic tapas platter and signature Middle Eastern dishes, to the Brunch at the Palace Abu Dhabi
sultry character of classic tacos topped off with sinful sweets. Dubai is a melting There are a few things you simply must do in Abu Dhabi, and Brunch at the
pot of different nations and the kitchen team headed by Chef Mahmoud Turkmani Palace is one of them. Brunch begins with a vast selection of appetisers.
complimented by the highly skilled bartenders behind the 35M long bar are ready Once your taste-buds has been piqued, visit the vast array of live cooking
to give you an equally diverse brunch experience best enjoyed with friends, families, stations, the BBQ grill, pasta counter, traditional tandoori and shawarma
and even the little ones. Take the opportunity to relax in the more temperate stations followed by a delicious selection of sweet treats. Add to that an
seasonal weather on their terrace as you savour delicious food paired with specialty exclusive caviar-tasting happy hour from 1pm-2pm, live entertainment,
cocktails and premium bubblies. As the sun goes down, spend a little more time on and kids’ zone, and you have the makings for a perfect afternoon. Aside
the market floor with the After Brunch Unlimited drinks from 4pm-7pm. Whether from the fabulous food, the setting is ideal for chilling out, catching up and
you choose to sit comfortably on the cosy terrace couch or at the trendy dining soaking in the sun with friends and family. Brunch is served in Las Brisa,
table set-up, favour one cuisine or drink choice over the other, there is something every Friday from 12:30pm – 4pm. Prices start at $99pp Kids under 10
for every discerning palate. Brunch is served from 12 noon – 4pm; prices start dine for free and kids between 10-12 at $49pp. Pool and beach access is
from $55pp incl. soft drinks; kids 8-15 $35pp and kids under 8 eat for free. For not included. For more information +971 2 690 7999 email restaurants@
more information contact +971 435 44354 or Reservations@7elephantsdubai.com emiratespalace.ae or visit www.kempinski.com/en/abudhabi
ULTIMATE GOURMET BOLTHOLE The elegant style of the Mandarin Oriental perfectly balances the Yin and
Yang of sumptuous traditional Asian inspired décor with a contemporary
Mandarin Oriental HONG KONG essence that embraces the latest in materials and technology. The use of
That Hong Kong has a style of its own is indisputable; a city that has natural wood, marble and stone, mosaics, soft fabrics, comfortable beds,
its own chic-style that demands reverence for not only the magnificent duck-down pillows and deep plush furniture, set to a warm natural palette,
architecture of the myriad of soaring steel and glass edifices that give Hong provide a luxury home-from-home.
Kong its recognisable skyline but the unbridled passion and dedication The Mandarin Oriental offers a truly spectacular array of dining
that permeates throughout the very ether that is an integral part of the experiences, with not one but three Michelin-starred restaurants amongst
heritage and underlying essence that is Hong Kong.What better way to its ten bars and restaurants; from the delights of all-day dining at Café
experience one of the greatest cities in the world than to stay at one of its Causette in the Clipper Lounge and traditional English fare at The Chinnery
greatest hotels – The Mandarin Oriental, renowned for unabashed luxury, to the gourmand Michelin experiences of superlative French cuisine at
outstanding service, attention to detail and a dedication to gastronomy, this Pierre, classic Cantonese delicacies at Man Wah and modern grill classics
award-winning legend has become a Hong Kong institution in its own right; at Mandarin Grill + Bar.
the beating heart of the City for over half a century. Located in Hong Kong’s Whether you are visiting for a business trip, a shopping safari or a
Central district the Mandarin Oriental provides access to the territory’s finest romantic week-end the Mandarin Oriental provides for your every need;
shopping, entertainment, restaurants and cultural spots; and is conveniently sophisticated restaurants, casual dining, lively bars, a relaxing spa, and
connected to Central’s premier addresses via a series of air-conditioned above all else that legendary Mandarin Oriental style and first-class service.
walkways. Doubles from $495. mandarinoriental.com
THE LYGON ARMS WORCESTERSHIRE Oliver Cromwell and Evelyn Waugh – though the modern- luxe design
There are few things better than a restorative countryside escape, brings it up to date. Low-slung original beams frame labyrinthine
and few better places to get ensconced than this historic hotel in snugs filled with log fires and plush velvet sofas made for soothing
the Cotswolds. Fresh off the back of a revamp, the 16th-century inn afternoons over the weekend’s papers. MS. Doubles from $310.
is every bit a British affair – previous guests include King Charles I, lygonarmshotel.co.uk
THE LEELA PALACE NEW DELHI, INDIA THE SLATE PHUKET, THAILAND
Don’t panic if you let out a little gasp as you enter this imposing hotel. Designed Like a grain of sand’s transformation into a thing of beauty at
to replicate Edwin Lutyens’ colonial India, it is opulence on the grandest scale. the bottom of the ocean, the Na-Ranong family-owned recently
Think huge chandeliers, lavish furniture, precious metals adorning every table refurbished and renamed hotel The Slate (formally Indigo Pearl)
and an astonishing 14,000 fresh flowers delivered every day. However, it’s not has evolved from a slightly ugly duckling into a swan. The
a case of waste not, want not. The blooms are donated to an NGO and used to design-led hotel tastefully recalls the area’s tin-mining past
make dye for the annual Holi festival. with all manner of defunct machinery adorning its reception
There are 254 palatial guest rooms and suites, all with opulent decor. Suites area, as well as making appearances throughout the hotel’s
come with butler service, access to the exclusive Royal Club Lounge and larger grounds. It’s miles away from the bland international feel of so
suites with private plunge pools. Once you’ve picked your jaw up, take a dip in many resort hotels and is great fun for the kids, but some of
the rooftop infinity pool, a welcome reprieve from the steamy city. Located in the the more brutalist bedrooms with their brushed-concrete finish
upmarket Chanakyapuri district near the park-filled neighbourhood known as would benefit from being given a slightly softer touch.
Diplomatic Enclave, it’s full of well-heeled holidayers and businessmen. It’s a sizeable hotel with 177 rooms and certain pools are
Its five dining options play perfectly to its clientele. There are outposts of reserved for adults only, but the real star attraction is the
New York’s Le Cirque and Megu, plus its signature restaurant Jamavar also signature restaurant Black Ginger, run by talented Chef Piak,
has a Michelin-starred outpost in London. Savour dishes such as gosht ki which makes this hotel worth the stay alone. Reaching this
nihari (Awadhi lamb delicacy lightly flavoured with saffron) and daal Jamavar domain is via a rope-pulled raft across a softly lit lagoon,
(lentils with tomatoes and cream). After dinner, retire to The Library bar, with its adding to the theatre of the experience. The traditional Thai
extensive whisky menu and Indian-spiced cocktails such as a chicory marsala cuisine draws from different regions of the country but with
martini. AD. Doubles from $285. preferredhotels.com an emphasis on Chef Piak’s southern Thai roots. Dishes such
as gaeng poo bai cha ploo (southern style crab curry), som
tam (green papaya salad) and poh pia sod (roll-your-own rice-
flour pancakes) are elevated from their street food roots into
Michelin-grade plates. GR. Doubles from $380.
theslatephuket.com
JANUARY
For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.
1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml
Romain
van Durmen
Chef de Cuisine for The Chefs Palette, Cooking Studio,
Fairmont The Palm
All my early memories are of being in the kitchen as my father was a chef and I was always with him, learning
everything I could from a very young age. My grandfather was also a chef and every Christmas he would bake lots of bread
for everybody to enjoy, so cooking is a real family tradition. My father never made it easy for me though and even in my first
restaurant when I was 14, he told the chef not to pay me and to really push me. But it was this that inspired me to become a chef
as I loved it right away. I was working 12 hour days as a teenager but it was never hard because I liked it so much.
When I was 17, I started working in a two star Michelin restaurant in Belgium called Le Château Du Mylord and I would work
16 or 18 hour days. There was a lot of pressure and I was always tired. It is something that I will never forget as there was stress, you had
big fights with colleagues. But at the same time, I loved every minute of it because I was passionate about food. It was almost like being in
a relationship, it required a lot of passion.
I have always loved to travel and was lucky enough to work in Vietnam where I was training local chefs. It was amazing as food
throughout the country is great. It is here I developed a love of street food and that was all I ate when traveling around Thailand, Laos and
Cambodia. Spain is also a favourite of mine as my brother lives in Madrid which is just a perfect city for eating together and having big meals
at amazing little cafes and bistros.
When I’m in Dubai I love to eat at the restaurants that serve the classics. Le Petite Maison is great as the menu is simple but
everything is made perfectly. It is why when I go back home to Belgium I seek out traditional Belgian cuisine as it holds such rich
memories for me. And yes, the stereotype is true, we do very much love our potatoes, our chocolate and our hops.
I still cook at home every night as well, though I like to keep it simple. For me there is nothing better than a nice rustic
chicken soup or a nice piece of freshly baked bread with some pâté. It is so important to have that taste of home and to eat
something traditional.
I try to get back to Belgium as much as possible and always try to get back to nature as I love to relax in the
forest or up in the mountains. Working in a hotel in a big city, it is nice to get away from it all and I often visit my
cousin’s farm and simply go fishing. But my next big trip will hopefully be to Japan as I am desperate to
visit that country. And for sure I will eat all day long as even the street vendors do amazing food.
Going ahead I have no idea what the future holds and I am only 30, but I can
never leave a job without being successful. I spent three years at Café Belge
and when I left the restaurant had never been as successful. Now I
want to make Chef’s Palette a success.