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Fresh, Handmade and Natural

But do our customers notice?


YCurrent trends:
Z Nature and yoga
Y Natural ingredients:
Z Who uses them and why?
YLush:
Z What’s different about us?
Z What do our customers think? My Lush by Patricia Morales.
Me: Sarah McCartney
YWriter & editor of Lush Times
YBusiness consultant
YLecturer in marketing
YWith Lush for seven years
YCTG and Lush customer
YYoga teacher
Y‘There is something about her that tells you
quickly she is the personification of the Lush
brand.’
John Simmons, The Invisible Grail, 2003.
Nature and Yoga:
two modern myths

Everything natural
is good for you.
Yoga will solve all
your problems.
Another modern myth:
YUse nature and yoga
in your marketing and
people will buy your
products.
Trends in natural ingredients
The Lady’s Complete Guide by Mrs Mary Cole,
1788.

‘Composing pill’
“Take of purified opium, ten grains;
Castile soap, half a gram. Beat
them together and form the whole
into twenty pills…. One, two or
three of these pills may be taken,
as occasion requires.”
What’s next?
YThe ‘new yoga’ YThe ‘new natural’
Z Pilates Z Organic
Z Yogalates Z Fresh
Z Running Z Science
Z Stretching Z Cosmeceuticals
Z Fishing Z Sun protection
Z Knitting Z Surgery
Surviving the end of the trend
YYoga:
ZA philosophy which has survived for over 2000 years.
ZTo begin to understand it you must practise for at least five
years.
ZTrends come and go, yoga stays. (But Gerri may give it up.)
YNatural ingredients:
Z95% of the world’s cosmetics are made with natural
ingredients because that’s all there is available.
ZLush hand-makes cosmetics with fresh, natural ingredients
and we will not be changing our philosophy either.
What is ‘Natural’ anyway?
‘Some terms like ‘natural’ and ‘hypoallergenic’ are liberally used by
advertisers and, unfortunately, there are no legal, scientific, or
accepted dictionary definitions of these terms as they apply to
cosmetics.’
‘In the USA the FDA tried to control the use of ‘hypoallergenic’ and
‘natural’ when used to describe cosmetics and toiletries, so that
consumers would not be misled by manufacturers…But the
cosmetics manufacturers challenged the FDA through the courts,
and the FDA eventually lost the case on the grounds that it had no
authority to regulate the way products are advertised.’
‘In the UK the situation is much less clear.’
Source: Cosmetics Unmasked, Dr Stephen and Gina Antczak.
A natural ingredient…
Y ‘A natural substance is any plant or animal
extract, or any rock or mineral obtained from
the earth. They are often contaminated with a
host of other substances, which must be
removed in order to achieve the required
degree of purity before they can be used as
ingredients in personal care products.’
Y ‘It is possible for chemists to make exact
copies of natural substances. The synthetic
versions are identical in every respect to the
original, natural substances: the only
difference being the cost and convenience of
production.’ Cosmetics Unmasked.
Y(No bias there then!)
Datamonitor’s Definition
YBroad Definition:
Z less than 5% natural ingredients or
Z removal of artificial ingredients
Y Narrow Definition:
Z more than 5% natural ingredients and
Z removal of artificial ingredients and
Z adoption of an ethically responsible
policy
Our customers’ views
Ynature,
Natural is something with a high proportion of "real" things in - that occur in
not a lab.
YNatural
Natural doesn't mean safe or non-irritating. Natural means unadulterated.
means I can know what I am putting onto my skin, where it comes from
and what it does. Using natural cosmetics means I need to be patient and
understanding when products take longer to sink in or have an effect and when
products are discontinued for lack of available or practical resources.
Y Natural should mean exactly that - something from the planet. We constantly
read about how mother nature has a remedy for most ills - even the man made
ones, so by using natural products you feel as though you are respecting yourself
and your skin.
however most companies that advertise natural products are a gimmick once you
read the label - if there is one available - or if it is legible!
Y no additives, preservatives, synthetics and colours!!!
Y Natural should mean that the bulk of the ingredients are as true to nature as
possible - not just a token gesture with some essential oil at number 20 in a list of
23 ingredients. Lush customer research, 2003
What exactly is ‘fresh’?
Ywhat
“if something is fresh, then it should, by definition, go off, if you get
I mean.”
YFresh means that something can go off, but it hasn't yet, obviously.
Yhave
“Fresh doesn’t mean a lot, it’s one of those words you can twist and
it reflect what you mean, for example the pineapple juice
might be fresh when you packaged it but adding lots of
preservatives means it will last a lot longer and so therefore isn’t
really fresh when you use it.”
Y “Fresh used to mean something, but now everyone uses it so to me
it's lost most of it's meaning.”
Y “Fresh/Natural cosmetics - to me these words hold no weight (other
than Lush of course). It disgusts me that products are marketed using
these words, when they are about as natural as Jill’s new boobies
and as fresh as my dog’s arse.”
Lush customer research, 2003
How about ‘handmade’?
Y“To me this conjures up images of white
coated workers stirring huge vats of bubbling
potions, chef-like people grating coconut and
zesting lemons to add to the mix, and a
production line of employees moulding
shapes by hand and pouring stuff into moulds
to set. Please don't tell me if it is nothing like
this because I don't want to know!”
Y “'Handmade' to me, cosmetics wise, means
'you can't blame us if the balance of
ingredients is wrong', and 'expect to find
anomalies in the different pots you buy' - it
means they can get away with more.”
And while we’re on the subject:
‘Organic’?
Y In chemistry, organic chemicals are
those which have a carbon and
hydrogen base; these include synthetics.
Y In biology it is anything which grows:
plant or animal
Y In agriculture it is crops produced
without the involvement of pesticide or
fertiliser not wholly of plant or animal
origin.
Y In art and architecture is it anything
inspired by a natural form.
And some poetry…
YFresh - ripe and juicy, sweet peaches from
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, in the middle
of July with the sun bathing your
shoulders....
Y Natural - walking along the beach with just
the sound of the waves and the wind
whipping your hair into a frenzy, cold sand
squidging through your toes, and the sunset
staining the sky in bright, lurid colours.....
Y Homemade - my grandmother's strawberry
jam spread on baked, buttered bread,
straight out of the oven, piping hot and
fragrant, making your mouth water.....
What makes us different?
YIt’s a private company.
Z The creative team are the directors. The take
risks without having to be answerable to
shareholders.
YThe customers think they own it.
Z We encourage them to contribute.
YOur aim is not simply profit.
Z Growth means that we can persuade suppliers
to farm organically and to stop animal testing.
Y We are herbalists.
Z Don’t eat vitamin C, eat an orange.
It’s the motivation
We believe….
Y …..in making effective products out of fresh, organic* fruit and
vegetables, the finest essential oils and safe synthetics, without
animal ingredients and in writing the quantitative list on the
outside (in English as well as Latin).
Y We also believe in buying from companies that test for safety
without the involvement of animals and in testing our products on
humans.
Y We believe in long candlelit baths, massage, in filling the house
with perfume, and in the right to make mistakes, lose everything
and start all over again.
Y We believe that our products should be good value, that we
should make a profit and that the customer is always right.
Y *We also believe that words like ‘fresh’ and ‘organic’ have
honest meaning beyond marketing.
Natural: do they really mean it?
YAre there more natural ingredients in
the product than are mentioned on
the label?
Y Are there any good reasons given
for why those ingredients are used?
Y Are there some synthetics which
could replace the natural ingredients?
Y Could you miss the natural
ingredients out without really altering
the products?
Fresh & Natural
It works because
of the natural
Natural
are best
Ingredients
ingredients Belief Map

Lush

Palmolive Garnier
Give them The
what they applicance
want of science

Make it work then put It works by using science


a natural extract in it. to 'improve' the naturals
Examples

YFresh & natural are best


Z REN, Neal’s Yard, Living
Nature, Lush
YGive them what they want
Z Palmolive, Boots ‘Natural
Collection’, Herbal Essences,
YThe appliance of science
Z Garnier, Clinique, Biolage
To the nitty –gritty: What’s in them?
B Never too busy to be beautiful
B will sweetly stroke your skin, softly clean it and soothe it with four different kinds of honey.
Ingredients: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Honey (Mel), Red Clover Flower Infusion (Trifolium pratense), Sodium
Cocoamphoacetate, Clover Honey (Mel), Orange Flower Honey (Mel), Manuka Honey (Mel), Eucalyptus
Honey (Mel), Rock Salt (Sodium Chloride), Cassie Absolute (Acacia farnesiana), Jasmine Absolute ( Jasminium
officinale), Perfume, Gardenia Extract (Gardenia jasminoides) Methylparaben, Propylparaben.
Boots Mediterranean Honey Fig Vanilla Bath Essence
with skin-conditioning ORGANIC honey, calming vanilla and ORGANIC fig extract.
Ingredients: Aqua (water) Sodium laureth sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Polysorbate 20, Mel (Honey), PEG-18
Glyceryl cocoate, Sodium chloride, Propylene glycol, Benzaphenone-3, Ficus caica (Fig) extract, Disodium
EDTA, Alcohol denat., Triethylene glycol, Benzyl alcohol, Citric acid, Caramel, Phenoxyethanol, Vanilla
planifolia fruit extract, Methylparaben, Denatonium benzoate, Magnesium nitrate, Methylchloroisothiazolinone,
Magnesium chloride, Methylisothiazoline, Cl 15985 (Yellow 6).
Original Source Honey & Lemon Moisturising Body Wash
For all day moisturisation and for the softest, silkiest skin you have ever had.
It’s the essential oils that make the difference.
Ingredients: Aqua (water), Glycerine, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Citrus Medica Limonum
(Lemon Oil), Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Sucrose Cocoate, Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate, Mel (Honey
Extract), Stearet10 Allyl Ether?acrylates?c10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide,
Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Cl 77891.
Some cleansers
Body Shop Blue Corn Scrub Mask
Against Animal Testing. Community Trade.
Ingredients: Aqua, Kaolin, Zea Mays, Glyceryl Stearate SE,
Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Propylene Glycol,
Phenoxyehtanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Panthenol,
Methylparaben, Bisabol, Citrus grandis,
Propylparaben, Citrus bergamia, Cananga odorata,
Pelargonium odoratissimum, Achillea millefolium,
Azardichta indica, Cl 77891, Cl 42090, Cl 17200

Yves Rocher Cleansing Milk. Lush Angels on Bare Skin:


Soothes and protects your sensitive skin. Gentle, Effective, Beautiful Cleanser
Ingredients: Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Octyl Cocoate, and Exfoliator.
Sorbitan Stearate, Ceteth-20, Propylene Glycol, Ingredients: Ground Almonds (Prunus dulcis),
Betaine, Matricaria chamomilla, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl
Alcohol, Methyl Paraben, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Glycerine, Kaolin, Water (Aqua), Lavender Oil
Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Allantoin, (Lavendula hybrida), Rose Absolute (Rosa
Parfum, Ethylparaben, Sorbic Acid, Propylparaben, centifolia), Lavender Flowers (Lavendula
Sodium Hydroxide, Butylparaden, Tetrasodium EDTA, hybrida), Perfume.
Succinic Acid.
Some Hair Colours
Nicky Clarke Colour Therapy Sweet Like Chocolate
‘This caring conditioner combines a gourmande blend of chocolate
with mandarin and bitter orange, topped with geranium and
rose, with extracts of horseradish and rosemary to add depth
and shine to enhance your colour.
Ingredients: Aqua Cetyl alcohol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cetrimonium
chloride, Panthenol, Parfum, Methylparaben, Benzophenone-4,
Dimethicone copolyl, Amodimethicone, Mica, Propylene glycol,
Teatrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rosmarinus
officinalis, Trideceth-10, Isopropyl alcohol, Denatonium benzoate,
Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben,
Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutyl paraben, Cl 14700, Cl77499, Cl
77491, Cl 19140, Cl 42090, Cl77891.

Lush Caca Brun


No S**t Hair Colour
Ingredients: Black Henna (Indigofera tinctoria), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma
cacao), Red Henna (Lawsonia inermis), Ground Coffee, Nettle Powder
(Urtica dioica), Irish Moss Powder (Chrondrus crispus), Clove Bud Oil
(Eugenia caryophyllus), Perfume.
Face Masks

Origins Drink Up
Ten minute mask to quench skin’s thirst
Ingredients: orange (citrus aurantifolium) blossoms, rosa
damascus and matricaria chamomilla infusions*; Ayesha Face Mask
caprylic/capric triglyceride: apricot (prunus armeniaca)
kernel oil; butylene glycol: saccharide isomerate:
An occasional mask for important
squalane; peg-100 stearate: emulsifying wax: glyceryl occasions
stearate; glycerin, isopropyl isostearate: osmanthus Ingredients: Fullers Earth, Honey (Mel),
absolute (osmanthus fragrans), rose (rosa damascena), Elderflower (Sambucus nigra) & Limeflower
shui (cinnamonum camphora), sweet orange (citrus (Citrus aurantifolia) Decoction, Glycerine,
aurantium) and apricot absolute (prunus armeniaca) Fresh Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis), Fresh
essential oils (olea): algae (hypnea) extract: rice (oriza Kiwi Fruit (Actinidia chinensis), Kaolin, Witch
sativa) bran oil: algae (gigartina) extract; sodium Hazel Extract (Hamamelis virginiana), Rose
hyaluronate; sorbitol: acrylamides copolymer; potassium Absolute (Rosa centifolia), Rosemary Oil
carbomer; disodium edta; phenoxyethanol; sodium (Rosmarinus officinalis), Patchouli Oil
dehydroacetate; sodium o-phenylohenate; methyl, ethyl, (Pogostemon cablin), Elderflower Vinegar,
propyl and butylparaben <iln5357> Bentonite Gel, Perfume.
Do people read QI lists?
YWe like to keep our products natural.
YWe thought that the 1999 legislation
on QI lists would have people running
into our shops to save their skins.
Y That didn’t happen as fast as we’d
hoped.
Y So why do people buy products with
natural ingredients?
From qualitative research amongst
post-graduate Londoners.
Y‘Doesn’t make any difference to me – I just buy what’s
on special offer at the time as long as it smells nice.’
Y ‘I would expect to pay more for natural ingredients but
in terms of performance I don’t think it really makes a
difference so I would generally not pay much attention
to it. I do believe essential oils are good as perfumes,
healers and ingredients to cosmetics. I would pay more
attention to a product with essential oils in than natural
ingredients. I guess I am more likely to buy a product
with a new ‘formula’ scientifically proven and all that! I
am also a Nivea traditionalist.’
Y ‘I think they are good for me.’
And some more of them
Y‘Only if it’s got the most Boots points’
Ythey
‘Purely natural products are nice, but only because
have innovative ingredients, come in nice
bottles and smell nice, an unusual factor, but I’m not
too bothered, I can always pour Nivea body lotion
into a nice, oldy worldy glass bottle with a cork
top.’
Y ‘It can make a difference [to what I buy],
especially if the benefits of such ingredients are
described.’
Y ‘I would probably opt to buy these type of
products as presents so the packaging would also
be important. The reason I would buy these as
presents is because I think people wouldn’t buy then
for themselves.
Our ‘strategy’
(if that’s not too grand a word for it)

YCreate wonderful products which work


and we want to use ourselves.
YUse fresh, natural, organic ingredients.
YExplain how they work.
YExplain why we do what we do.
YInvolve everyone in decision making…
Y…then make the decisions.
Our Customers
YPredominantly 25-34 female,
Y Followed by teenagers and 45-54s.
Y Around 17.5% male purchasers,
although usership is probably higher.
Y “Anyone who can cross the road by “I hope it won’t explode!”
themselves.” Mark. HM The Queen.

We make them for ourselves and hope the rest of


the world will like them.
How Lush customers tell us
they choose cosmetics
1. Not tested on animals
2. Natural ingredients
3. Smell
4. Low price/special offer
5. Trying something new
6. Fewer preservatives
7. Less or recycled packaging
8. Sticking to something you know
9. The brand name
10.Beautiful packaging
11.Anti-aging properties
12.A new scientific discovery
What Lush customers say they buy
35

30

25

20
Of t e n
S om e t im e s
Not Ye t
15

10

0
Ba t h S t uf f S howe r S t uf f S kin Ca r e Ha ir Cr a f t Gif t s Body Ca r e
How they find us
TVP rogra mme
2%

We bsit e
2%

From pre vious inc a rna t ion a s


Cosme t ic s t o Go
5%

Ma ga z ine S e e ing shop on t he highst re e t


9% 36%

On t he Re c omme nda t ion of a


frie nd or re la t ive
21%
S e e ing shop a nd be ing
Re c e iving a gift purc ha se d from
a t t ra c t e d t o t he odour on t he
Lush
high st re e t
9%
16%
Why it works for us
Y“Honestly, there are several other companies out there who
make very fine products that I most certainly would use if I could
not get Lush. Aveda, Origins, and L'Occitane spring to mind.
However, Lush truly is the ONLY company that I really believe
wholeheartedly when it comes to claims of fresh and natural. Its
not that I disbelieve the others, but they just don't spell out their
commitment to those concepts as clearly. In addition to that, I
have never come across another company that is so creative and
inventive, but at the same time PRAGMATIC in its use of natural
ingredients. That is to say, every Lush product that I use is clever,
luxurious, fun to use, but most importantly, it WORKS. Really, the
products work better than anything else I've ever used. So really,
that's how Lush has earned my loyalty and my trust -- by
delivering on promises.”
Lush Brand Loyalty
YWhy do we have it?
Z We tell our customers what’s really going
on.
Z We use real people in our marketing
material; they volunteer!
Z We use natural ingredients because they
work. We use things that don’t even have
an INCI name until we ask for one.
Z We explain exactly why we use the
ingredients we do.
Z We don’t make promises we can’t keep.
Do your customers do this?

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