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10/03/2018 Coll - Wikipedia

Coordinates: 56°38′00″N 6°33′26″W

Coll
Coll (Scottish Gaelic: Cola)[5] is an island located west of Mull in the
Coll
Inner Hebrides of Scotland. Coll is known for its sandy beaches, which
rise to form large sand dunes, for its corncrakes, and for Breacachadh Gaelic name Cola
Castle. It is in the council area of Argyll and Bute. Pronunciation [kʰɔlˠ̪ə] ( listen)

Meaning of Pre-Celtic and unclear


name
Location
Contents
Coll
Geography and geology
Settlements
Etymology
History
Early history
MacLeans of Coll
Foundations
Feud with the MacLeans of Duart
Feud with the Earl of Argyll
Departure
Present day
Transport
Economy Coll shown within Argyll and Bute
Wildlife OS grid NM207584
reference
In fiction
Coordinates 56.64°N 6.55°W
See also
Notes Physical geography
References Island group Mull
Bibliography Area 7,685 hectares
External links (29.7 sq mi)[1]
Area rank 18 [2]
Highest Ben Hogh 106 metres
Geography and geology elevation (348 ft)[1]
Coll is about 13 miles (20 km) long by 3 miles (5 km) wide and has a Administration
population of around 195. Coll's sandy beaches rise to form large sand Sovereign United Kingdom
dunes. The highest point on Coll is Ben Hogh in the mid west of the state
island, a ridge with two tops running NW/SE, which rises initially to a Country Scotland
height of 104 metres (341 ft) with a triangulation pillar, and to 106 Council area Argyll and Bute
metres (348 ft) 450 metres (492 yd) to the southeast.[4]
Demographics
Population 195[3]
Settlements Population 32= [2]
Arinagour (Scottish Gaelic: Àirigh nan Gobhar),[6] is the main
rank
settlement on the island located at the head of Loch Eatharna, on the
Population 2.5 people/km2[1][3]
density
east coast.[7] Other inhabited locations include:
Main Arinagour[1]
settlement
Acha (Scottish Gaelic: An t-Achadh),[8] a crofting settlement located
5 kilometres (3.1 mi) south-west of Arinagour.[9]
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Arileod (Scottish Gaelic: Àirigh Leòid),[6] located on the west coast; Ramsar Wetland
7 kilometres (4.3 mi) south-west of Arinagour.[10]
Designated 31 March 1995
Arnabost (Scottish Gaelic: Àrnabost),[6] located 3 kilometres (1.9 mi)
north-west of Arinagour. it is the junction for travel between
Sorisdale, Clabhach and Arinagour.[11]
Ballyhaugh (Scottish Gaelic: Baile Hogh),[12] located on the northern References [1][4]

part of Hough Bay; 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) west of


Arinagour.[13]
Bousd (Scottish Gaelic: Babhsta),[14] located 7 kilometres
(4.3 mi) north-east of Arinagour.[15]
Clabhach (Scottish Gaelic: A' Chlabaich),[16] located on the
north-west coast; 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) north-west of
Arinagour.[17]
Crossapol (Scottish Gaelic: Crosabol),[18] located on the
south-west coast.[19]
Totronald (Scottish Gaelic: Tobhta Raghnaill), located on the
View of Arinagour
west coast 7 kilometres (4.3 mi) southwest of Arinagour.[20]
Uig (Scottish Gaelic: Ùig),[21] located 1 kilometre (0.62 mi)
north-east of the head of Loch Breachacha.[22]

Etymology
Coll is sometimes derived from Gaelic coll, 'hazel'.[23] However, this does not match the early recorded forms of the
name.[24] The name of Coll is given as Colosus in the Life of St Columba by Adamnán, the seventh century abbot of
Iona.[25] As /s/ between vowels had been lost in Celtic before Adamnán's time, Watson suggests that Colosus may
represent a pre-Celtic name.[23] Richard Coates has proposed that the name may be related to Greek kolossós and may
have referred to a humanoid standing stone located on the island, like those still seen on North Uist and Lewis.[26] As
Kolossós is not originally a Greek word,[26] Coates suggests that the name could have been given to Coll at a time when the
kolossói of Mediterranean culture were well-known, or named "by speakers of a language in which the ancestor of the
word was the native term."[24] In Icelandic, the word kollur (Old Norse: kollr, Norwegian: koll or kolle) means "a rounded
protrusion, such as a rounded mountaintop, or a tussock".

History

Early history
In the 6th century, an Irish invasion led to the establishment of
the Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riata, which included Coll. Dál Riata
was divided into four kin-groups, of which the Cenél Loairn ruled
Coll, Mull, and the adjacent mainland, which together
consequently became known as Lorn, after them. Coll shared the
history of Lorn for the next 1000 years, becoming part of the
Kingdom of the Isles under Norwegian dominion, then the
MacDougall subdivision of that kingdom after Somerled.

Coll, like other Hebridean islands, has several crannógs (artificial


islands) located in some of its lochs, dating from this early Dùn Beic (in about 1900), one of several Dùn on
period. It is difficult to estimate the exact age of these islands, but Coll traditionally claimed to have been Norse
several are thought to date to the Norse period; local traditions strongholds.
describe three - Dùn Anlaimh, Dùn an Achaidh, Dùn Dubh - as
having been Norse strongholds which survived until they were
attacked by the Macleans.

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The 1266 Treaty of Perth transferred the Norwegian crown dependency to the Scottish king[note 1]. Following the
MacDougall defeat in the dispute between king John Balliol and Robert de Bruys (they had backed the former), the
position of sheriff of Argyll was created to have shrieval authority over Lorn[note 2], and the MacDougall lands were
merged into the Lordship of the Isles. Though MacDougall authority was restored in 1357, by king David II, the
MacDougall heir had 3 years previously[note 3], quitclaimed any rights to Mull (including Coll), which therefore remained
with the Lord of the Isles.

MacLeans of Coll

Foundations
The heirs of the Cenél Loairn were now the MacLeans, who still resided in Lorn, as vassals of the Lord of the Isles.
However, the daughter of the first Lord of the Isles, John of Islay, married the leader of the MacLeans, Lachlan
Lubanach[note 4]; subsequent MacLean leaders thus descended from John of Islay. Lachlan's grandson, Lachlan
Bronneach[note 5] had four sons, the eldest of which (Donald) was a bastard, and would thus not inherit the MacLean
leadership.

Donald took an armed band to Ardtornish Castle, home of the Lord of the Isles,
and demanded that the third Lord of the Isles (Alexander) give him an
inheritance, by granting him a share of the lands inherited from John of Islay
(on the basis that Donald's grandfather [note 6] was Alexander's 1st cousin);
Alexander conceded, granting Donald Ardgour and other lands. Having
observed this, the youngest son of Lachlan Bronneach - John Garbh[note 7] -
decided to try the same behaviour, and as a result was made laird of Coll, and
other lands, by Alexander. King James II confirmed Alexander's grants to
Breachacha Castle
John.

John Garbh's heirs became known as the MacLeans of Coll, and constructed
Breachacha Castle, on the south coast of Coll, as their base. Coll remained home to this branch of the Clan Maclean for
500 years. In 1549 Dean Monro wrote of Coll that it was:

"ane mane fertile Ile inhabite and manurit, with an castell and ane paroch kirk in it, gude for
fishing and fowlers, with ane utter fine Falcons nest in it".[27]

Feud with the MacLeans of Duart


At the end of the 15th century, the Lordship of the Isles was dismantled, which
made the MacLeans of Coll direct vassals of the crown, which caused conflict
with the heirs of the eldest lawful son of Lachlan Bronneach[note 8] - the
Macleans of Duart. The leader of the latter claimed to be leader of all Macleans,
as Lachlan Bronneach and his forefathers had been, but the Macleans of Coll
argued that their only feudal superior was the king, and they were therefore
independent of the Duart branch of the family; essentially the dispute was
between feudalism and traditional family leadership principles.

Simmering tensions eventually exploded in 1561, when the MacLeans of Duart


invaded the lands of the MacLeans of Coll. The leader of the latter opted to The burial place of the MacLean
appeal to the Privy Council for assistance; the privy council agreed with the leaders of Coll
MacLeans of Coll, ordering the MacLeans of Duart to pay reparations.
However, in 1583, a decade after succeeding to his position, the new leader of

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the MacLeans of Duart re-invaded Coll with the intention of taking the island for themselves. A battle was fought at
Totronald near Breacachadh Castle where the Coll clan overwhelmed the Duarts, chopped off their heads and threw them
in the stream, which is still known as "the stream of the heads".

Feud with the Earl of Argyll


In the late 17th century, the MacLeans of Duart were in debt to the Earl of
Argyll; these stemmed from the civil war when the MacLeans had supported
the royalists against the covenanters. Ironically, though himself a royalist, the
Earl's father had been one of the most senior covenanters; many therefore felt
that the debt was unjust, and in 1676, the MacLeans appealed to the Privy
Council, but no decision was reached.

The MacLeans of Coll subsequently supported those of Duart in small guerilla


actions against the Earl's lands. Unlike the MacLeans, the Earl was a supporter
The rocky western coast
of the Scottish Reformation, and in 1679 managed to obtain Fire and Sword
powers against popery in the Highlands. He launched an attack on Coll, in
revenge for the support given to the MacLeans of Duart; Breachacha Castle surrendered on 2nd July, 1679. However, in
1681, after equivocating over his obedience to king James VII (a Roman Catholic), the Earl was arrested for treason, and
Coll was returned to the MacLeans (of Coll).

Departure
In the late 18th century there were about 1,000 people supported by
agriculture and fishing.[1]. However, the collapse in the kelp market after the
end of the Napoleonic Wars, followed by the Highland Potato Famine, caused a
great deal of hardship on the island. By the mid 19th century, half the
population had chosen to leave, many of them moving to Australia, Canada, or
South Africa. In 1848, the heir of the Macleans of Coll himself, Alexander
Maclean, emigrated to Natal, in South Africa (where he later died, unmarried).

In 1856, Alexander's father, Hugh MacLean, decided to sell Coll. Forced Derelict house at Sorisdale
clearances under the new landlords led the population figures to collapse; even
by the start of the 21st century, there were only 164 people living on coll.

Present day
In the 2011 census, the island's population was recorded as 195, representing an increase over the previous decade of
nearly 19%[3][28] During the same period Scottish island populations as a whole grew by 4% (to 103,702).[29]

Transport
There are only two main roads on Coll. The main hub of the island is the island's largest settlement—Arinagour. Just over
a kilometre (0.7 miles) south of Arinagour is the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry terminal.[30] The ferry travels from Oban to
Coll to Tiree; and a return trip from Tiree, to Coll, to Oban.[31][32] The ferry between Oban and Castlebay on Barra goes via
Coll and Tiree once a week.

The airport on the island, (IATA: COL) is located between Uig and Arileod. Highland Airways who originally operated the
route to Oban went into administration in 2010,[33] but a new operator, Hebridean Air Services now operates the route
under a PSO with flights to Oban, Tiree and Colonsay. The aircraft used for the flights are a BN2 Islander (G-HEBS).
Hebridean headquarters are at Cumbernauld Airport, North Lanarkshire.

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Coll airport

Preceding Following
Ferry
station station
Caledonian
Tiree MacBrayne Oban
Ferry

Economy
In July 2012, Princess Anne formally opened the Isle of Coll's new community
centre, An Cridhe, and hostel, Coll Bunkhouse. Owned and managed by the
community-led organisation Development Coll, the new facilities were built to
provide much needed amenities on the island and a social hub for the local
community. An Cridhe now hosts a series of annual events such as a half
marathon, the Coll Show, a basking shark festival, a bird festival and a
chamber music festival, as well as a range of music, comedy, theatre and dance
throughout the year.

In December 2013 Coll secured 'dark skies' status, only the second location in
Scotland to do so.[34] The island has no street lights and little other light
pollution, allowing unobstructed views of the night sky on clear nights. In
winter the Northern Lights are often visible.[35]

The charity Project Trust, which organises overseas volunteering and gap-
years, has been based on the island since 1974.[36][37]. The founder, Nicholas
Maclean-Bristol, also restored Breacachadh Castle.[38]
Map of Tiree (bottom, southwest)
and Coll (top, northeast), 1899.
Wildlife
There is an extensive RSPB reserve towards the west end of the island.[39] One
of the main attractions is the rare corncrake. Traditional local farming
practices have helped this once common British bird survive.

In 2010, a colony of short-necked oil beetles was found on the island. The
beetle, thought to be extinct in the UK, is now known only to occur in southern
England and Coll. It is parasitic on ground-dwelling bees, and is also flightless,
raising the question of how it arrived on the island. It does not appear to be
found on neighbouring Tiree, possibly because of a difference in terrain. Project Trust centre
Modern farming methods had partly caused its demise elsewhere.[40]

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A lamb, in Arinagour A corncrake, near Arnabost

In fiction
Mairi Hedderwick, the illustrator
and author, used to live on Coll and
has used the island as the setting
for her Katie Morag series of
children's books. In the books, Coll
is known by the fictional name of
the Isle of Struay.[41]

In Alexander McCall Smith's The


Traigh Feall (Feall Beach), Isle of Charming Quirks of Others the Island on Loch Renard, one of the
Coll protagonist, Isabelle Dalhousie, many lochans and lochs on Coll. In
the foreground, heather and a
discusses Coll as a place for a
rowan tree.
honeymoon.[42]

See also
List of Sites of Special Scientific Interest in Mull, Coll and Tiree
Cairns of Coll
Land raid
Religion of the Yellow Stick

Notes
1. rather than Scotland; they remained a crown dependency, like the Isle of Man (which had itself once been part of the
Kingdom of the Isles)
2. Over Lorn only. Authority was only extended to the rest of the region now known as Argyll by a gradual process over
the following centuries. Kintyre, for example, was dealt with by the sheriff of Tarbert for many centuries after this.
3. 1354
4. Cunning
5. fat-bellied
6. Red Hector, of the Battles
7. Rough
8. Lachlan Og

References
1. Haswell-Smith (2004) p. 118-122

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2. Area and population ranks: there are c. 300 islands over 20 ha in extent and 93 permanently inhabited islands were
listed in the 2011 census.
3. National Records of Scotland (15 August 2013) (pdf) Statistical Bulletin: 2011 Census: First Results on Population
and Household Estimates for Scotland - Release 1C (Part Two) (http://www.scotlandscensus.gov.uk/en/censusresult
s/bulletin.html). "Appendix 2: Population and households on Scotland’s inhabited islands". Retrieved 17 August 2013.
4. Ordnance Survey. OS Maps Online (https://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/shop/os-maps-online.html) (Map). 1:25,000.
Leisure. Retrieved 21 August 2013.
5. Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 31
6. Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 8
7. "Arinagour" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst673.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 13 December
2009.
8. Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 1
9. "Acha" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst3661.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 13 December
2009.
10. "Arileod" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst3705.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 13 December
2009.
11. "Arnabost" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst3707.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 13 December
2009.
12. Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 14
13. "Ballyhaugh" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst3721.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved
13 December 2009.
14. Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 21
15. "Bousd" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst3741.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 13 December
2009.
16. Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 29
17. "Clabhach" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst3763.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved
13 December 2009.
18. Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 34
19. "Totronald" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst4323.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved
13 December 2009.
20. "Totronald" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst3586.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved
13 December 2009.
21. Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 116
22. "Uig" (http://www.scottish-places.info/towns/townfirst3592.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 13 December
2009.
23. Broderick, George (2013). "Some Island Names in the Former 'Kingdom of the Isles': a reappraisal" (https://web.archi
ve.org/web/20150408212824/http://www.clanntuirc.co.uk/JSNS/V7/JSNS7%20Broderick.pdf#page=12) (PDF). The
Journal of Scottish Name Studies: 12. Archived from the original (http://www.clanntuirc.co.uk/JSNS/V7/JSNS7%20Bro
derick.pdf#page=12) (PDF) on 2015-04-08.
24. Coates, Richard (2009). "A Glimpse through a Dirty Window into an Unlit House: Names of Some North-West
European Islands" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150407205627/http://yorkspace.library.yorku.ca/xmlui/bitstream/ha
ndle/10315/3642/icos23_228.pdf#page109) (PDF). In Ahrens, Wolfgang; Embleton, Sheila; Lapierre, André. Names
in Multi-Lingual, Multi-Cultural and Multi-Ethnic Contact: Proceedings of the 23rd International Congress of Onomastic
Sciences: August 17‒22, York University, Toronto, Canada. Toronto: York University. p. 237. ISBN 978-1-55014-521-
2. Archived from the original (http://yorkspace.library.yorku.ca/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10315/3642/icos23_228.pdf#pa
ge=10) (PDF) on 2015-04-07.

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25. Coates, Richard (2009). "A Glimpse through a Dirty Window into an Unlit House: Names of Some North-West
European Islands" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150407205627/http://yorkspace.library.yorku.ca/xmlui/bitstream/ha
ndle/10315/3642/icos23_228.pdf#page=9) (PDF). In Ahrens, Wolfgang; Embleton, Sheila; Lapierre, André. Names in
Multi-Lingual, Multi-Cultural and Multi-Ethnic Contact: Proceedings of the 23rd International Congress of Onomastic
Sciences: August 17‒22, York University, Toronto, Canada. Toronto: York University. p. 236. ISBN 978-1-55014-521-
2. Archived from the original (http://yorkspace.library.yorku.ca/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10315/3642/icos23_228.pdf?se
quence=1) (PDF) on 2015-04-07.* Early forms are listed in Broderick, George (2013). "Some Island Names in the
Former 'Kingdom of the Isles': a reappraisal" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150408212824/http://www.clanntuirc.co.
uk/JSNS/V7/JSNS7%20Broderick.pdf#page=12) (PDF). The Journal of Scottish Name Studies: 12. Archived from the
original (http://www.clanntuirc.co.uk/JSNS/V7/JSNS7%20Broderick.pdf#page=12) (PDF) on 2015-04-08.
26. Coates, Richard (2009). "A Glimpse through a Dirty Window into an Unlit House: Names of Some North-West
European Islands" (http://yorkspace.library.yorku.ca/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10315/3642/icos23_228.pdf#page=9)
(PDF). In Ahrens, Wolfgang; Embleton, Sheila; Lapierre, André. Names in Multi-Lingual, Multi-Cultural and Multi-
Ethnic Contact: Proceedings of the 23rd International Congress of Onomastic Sciences: August 17‒22, York
University, Toronto, Canada. Toronto: York University. p. 236. ISBN 978-1-55014-521-2. Archived from the original (htt
p://yorkspace.library.yorku.ca/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10315/3642/icos23_228.pdf#page=9) (PDF) on 2015-04-07.
27. Munro (1961) p. 66
28. General Register Office for Scotland (28 November 2003) Scotland's Census 2001 – Occasional Paper No 10:
Statistics for Inhabited Islands (http://www.gro-scotland.gov.uk/census/censushm/occpapers/occasional-paper-10/ind
ex.html). Retrieved 26 February 2012.
29. "Scotland's 2011 census: Island living on the rise" (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-23711202). BBC News.
Retrieved 18 August 2013.
30. "Isle of Coll Tourist Guide Inner Hebrides Scottish Islands" (http://www.iknow-scotland.co.uk/tourist_information/scottis
h_islands/isle_of_coll_tiree/coll_tourist_information.htm). www.iknow-scotland.co.uk. Retrieved 13 December 2009.
31. "Coll: Getting there/around" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090506175608/http://www.calmac.co.uk/coll). Caledonian
MacBrayne. Archived from the original (http://www.calmac.co.uk/coll) on 6 May 2009. Retrieved 13 December 2009.
32. "Coll and Tiree timetable (25 October 2009 to 25 March 2010)" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071103142113/http://w
ww.calmac.co.uk/winter-timetable.html?id=winter-coll-and-tiree--oban-coll-tiree.gif). Caledonian MaBrayne. Archived
from the original (http://www.calmac.co.uk/winter-timetable.html?id=winter-coll-and-tiree--oban-coll-tiree.gif) (gif) on 3
November 2007. Retrieved 13 December 2009.
33. "Highland Airways goes into administration" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/highlands_and_islands/858
6688.stm). BBC News Online. 25 March 2010. Retrieved 25 March 2010.
34. "Isle of Coll secures 'dark isle' status" (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-glasgow-west-25300740). BBC News.
9 December 2013. Retrieved 9 December 2013.
35. Thomson, Andrew. "BBC News - Residents of Coll in bid for first 'dark isle' status" (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotl
and-glasgow-west-17893195). bbc.co.uk. Retrieved 2012-04-30.
36. Kerr, Moira (17 March 2008) "Charity plays vital role in survival of remote island". Aberdeen. Press and Journal.
37. "About Project Trust" (http://www.projecttrust.org.uk/aboutus.php?T=About) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/201
10414231751/http://www.projecttrust.org.uk/aboutus.php?T=About) 14 April 2011 at the Wayback Machine. Project
Trust. Retrieved 5 April 2008.
38. "Coll" (http://www.scottish-places.info/features/featuredetails1508.html). Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved
13 December 2009.
39. "Guide to Coll" (http://www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/c/coll/index.asp). RSBP. Retrieved 2008-01-06.
40. Ross, John (16 July 2010) "Beetle mania as 'extinct' insect found on Scots isle" (http://news.scotsman.com/news/Beet
le-mania-as-39extinct39-insect.6423196.jp). The Scotsman. Retrieved 19 July 2010.
41. "Random House - Mairi Hedderwick" (http://www.randomhouse.co.uk/kids/characters/mairi.htm). Retrieved
2008-01-06.
42. Smith, Alexander McCall (2010). The Charming Quirks of Others. New Yoek: Anchor Books. p. 98.

Bibliography
Haswell-Smith, Hamish (2004). The Scottish Islands (https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=bXFwKl5gVqwC).
Edinburgh: Canongate. ISBN 978-1-84195-454-7.
Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2003) Ainmean-àite/Placenames (http://www.parliament.scot/gd/visitandlearn/40900.aspx). (pdf)
Pàrlamaid na h-Alba. Retrieved 26 August 2012.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coll 8/9
10/03/2018 Coll - Wikipedia

Munro, R. W. (1961)Electronic Monro's Western Isles of Scotland and Genealogies of the Clans. Edinburgh and
London. Oliver and Boyd.
Watson, W. J. (1994) The Celtic Place-Names of Scotland. Edinburgh; Birlinn. ISBN 1841583235. First published
1926.

External links
The island of Coll (http://www.collofthehebrides.com)

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