HAKKO 936 - Schematic

Rendered by: Tom Hammond - NØSS 26 MAR 2011 v1.7

MAIN PC BOARD
VREF

R11
180k 1%
IC1
IC2B TRIAC DRIVER
5 1 8 R3 15k
+ NC G
R12 130k 7
C6 3 7
1% OUT B F C4
6 _ LM324 R13 100k 2 6 R4 1k .01/50V
.01/25v A E
4 5
C D
C9 NEC* µPC1701C
VREF R2 Zero Volt Switch
R14 .01/25V
1k8
R16 1k2 1k0
R15 24k0 TEMP
CTRL
5k0 VREF VCC AC
ALPS RK09L IC2C
1140A65 5K HEATER VCC NEC µPC324A
(502B) LINEAR LED Lo-Pwr Quad OpAmp
U1C
10 R10 680
V+ 4 +
8
OUT ZD2 C2
1N4148 D2
V- _ 9 5.1Vz 500mW
R6 LM324 47µF 16V
11
27k0 C1
D1
1% 220µF 50V
VEE
VREF IC2A C3
3
R9 66k5 1% + 47µF 16V
1 ZD1
OUT
5.1Zv 500mW
2 _
LM324 D3
R1 360 2W
metal film
1N4007

VEE
VREF
R7
Note: " " = CKT GND
5k1 1%

Q1 T1
R17 NEC AC05D
CAL 300
1M0 5A TRIAC T2
R8 CTRL
G
390 1%
SOLDERING IC2D
IRON PLUG LM324
13
SLEEVE GND HANDSET 14
SOCKET OUT
5 1 12
C7
HEATER SENSOR SOLDERING IRON/CHASSIS GND
PINS PINS 0.1
3
25V

HANDSET
TIP GND
R5 1k0 1% CHASSIS POWER
120VAC 2A GND
HOT XFMR
BLK
CHASSIS
GND C5 .01/25V
GRN AC ON/OFF PC BOARD 120VAC 24VAC

WHT NEUT

GND
CHASSIS GND
HAKKO 936 TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED
SOLDERING STATION PC BOARD LAYOUT
Rendered by: Tom Hammond, NØSS 26 MAR 2011 v1.7

PC BOARD AS VIEWED FROM THE COPPER (SOLDER) SIDE

HAKKO 936 TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED
SOLDERING STATION PC BOARD LAYOUT
Rendered by: Tom Hammond, NØSS 26 MAR 2011 v1.7

PC BOARD AS VIEWED FROM THE COMPONENT SIDE

 HAKKO 936 TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED
SOLDERING STATION PC BOARD LAYOUT
Rendered by: Tom Hammond, NØSS 26 MAR 2011 v1.7

PC BOARD AS VIEWED FROM THE COMPONENT SIDE

HEATSINK

R4

Q1 R13
R6 VCC
IC1
C2
D1 +
T1 T2 G D2
VCC
C3
R7
+
JP1 C7 VEE
HTR IC2 PVR1
K A
VCC
LED N/C
R2
+
C1
+ VEE
FG
CN1
R15

5 1 R12 R10
VR2
4 2 VREF
3
N/C

R8
 HAKKO 936 TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED
SOLDERING STATION PC BOARD LAYOUT
Rendered by: Tom Hammond, NØSS 26 MAR 2011 v1.7

PC BOARD AS VIEWED FROM THE COMPONENT SIDE

HEATSINK

1k
100k
AC05D
B1081 27k 1%

1N4148 47uF
1N4148 C1701C 16v
5.1k 1%

J 47uF
0.1 16v
25v

C324C
1.8k
5k

24k
220uF
680 50v
130k 1%

300

390 1%
HAKKO 936-x PC Board Parts List
C1 220uF 50V
C2 47uF 16V
C3 47uF 16V
C4 0.01 (103) 50V Ceramic
C5 0.01 (104) 25V Ceramic
C6 0.01 (104) 25V Ceramic
C7 0.1 (104) 25V Ceramic
C8, C10-C13 n/a
C9 0.01 (104) 25V Ceramic
D1 4N4148 Small Sig Sil, or similar
D2 4N4148 Small Sig Sil, or similar
D3 1N4001, or 50VDC (or higher) @ 1A
IC1 NEC* μPC1701C, Zero Volt Switch
IC2 NEC* μPC324A, Lo-Pwr Quad OpAmp
Q1 NEC AC05D 5A Triac
R1 360 2W 5% metal film
R2 1.8k 1/4w 5% carbon film
R3 15k 1/4w 5% carbon film
R4 330 1/4w 5% carbon film
R5 1.0k 1/4W 1% metal film
R6 27.0k 1/4W 1% metal film
R7 5.11k 1/4w 1% metal film
R8 390 1/4w 1% metal film
R9 66.5k 1/4w 1% metal film
R10 680 1/4w 5% carbon film
R11 180.0k 1/4W 1% metal film
R12 130.0k 1/4W 1% metal film
R13 100k 1/4w 5% carbon film
R14 1k 1/4W 5% carbon film
R15 24k 1/4w 5% carbon film
R16 12k 1/4w 5% carbon film
R17 1M 1/4w 5% carbon film
ZD1 5.1Vz 500mW, 5.4Vz (measured)
ZD2 5.1Vz 500mW, 5.2Vz (measured)
PVR1 TEMP ADJ POT - ALPS RK09L1140A65 5K
(502B) LINEAR
VR2 CAL TEMP POT - Bournes 3362P-1-501LF,
see note below

* NOTE: NEC, is now part of Renesas Electronics Corp.

CAL TEMP CTRL

NOTE: In the 936, the CAL TEMP pot is 300 Ohms, however
we were unable to find a pot in this physical format rated at
300 Ohms, so a 500 Ohm device has been specified as a
suitable substitute.
 ADDING AN ON/OFF LED TO HAKKO 936-X
TEMP-CONTROLLED SOLDERING STATIONS
by: Tom Hammond, NØSS 03/09/2011, v.4.1

Is it turned ON or not?

By golly, it WAS, but how could you tell?

 ADDING AN ON/OFF LED TO HAKKO 936-X
TEMP-CONTROLLED SOLDERING STATIONS
by: Tom Hammond, NØSS rev. 03/09/2011
The Hakko 936-x line of temperature-controlled soldering stations has one flaw. It offers no real POWER ON/OFF
indication. There is a red LED which illuminates when heat is being applied to the tip of the iron, but it lights
ONLY when heat is being applied. As a result, if you glance at the station when no heat's being applied to the tip,
you might think the device is actually turned off. I've walked off and left the soldering station running for several
days because the red LED was extinguished when I looked at it, even though power was still applied.

Here's a fairly simple-to-install mod which will add a green LED to the right hand side of the front panel on the
936. This LED will be illuminated any time power is applied to the soldering station.

1. Remove four (4) screws from the bottom of the case, and lift off the case top.

2. Remove the temperature control knob and carefully loosen the setscrew in the temp-lock mechanism.
Remove the setscrew and nut and set them aside in a safe place.

3. Lift the front panel/PC board combination out of the case and carefully desolder the 6-pin (five [5] pins and
one [1] lug) soldering iron cable connector from the PC board. USE CARE HERE.

4. With the 6-pin connector free of solder, hold the front panel on its sides with both bands and use your thumb
to press on the shaft of the temp. control pot to push the PC board assembly away from the front panel.

4. Using Figure 1 (see next page), a scale drawing of the front panel, as an overlay of the drilling template, lay
the template onto the front panel and CAREFULLY center punch and then drill a 3/16" (4.75mm) hole. Then
use a much larger (about 1/2" / 13mm) bit (hand-held), or a hand reamer bit, to 'hollow' out a bit of the back
side of the hole just drilled to allow the new LED to extend out the front of the panel just a small distance.

5. Refer to Figure 2 (next page),SOLDER SIDE of the PC board. Using a #60 (0.040") or smaller drill bit, drill
four (4) holes, as indicated, to accept the new LED (green, T1-3/4 size), and the current limiting resistor
(RL,3.0k to 3.9k 1W, the exact value is not terribly critical, a metal film/oxide resistor was selected for its
smaller physical size), Mouser Electronics #594-5083NW3K900J (3.9k 2W metal film).

6. Once the four holes have been drilled, use a sharp knife blade and scrape away the solder mask from the
two points indicated in Figure 2. Once these two points are cleaned of solder mask, tin the bare copper.

7. Regarding the LED... generally, there is a flat side on the base of the LED body to indicate the CATHODE
side. Additionally, on most (though not all) LEDs, the CATHODE lead is the SHORTER of the two (assuming
a new LED with un-cut leads).

8. ALL REMAINING STEPS REFER TO FIGURE 3 (next page). Install (BUT DO NOT SOLDER) the LED with
its CATHODE lead in the hole indicated by the illustration. DO NOT BEND THE LED LEADS AND DO NOT
SOLDER YET!!!

9. Insulate and bend the leads of RL at right angles and at appropriate distances to allow RL to drop into its
mounting holes. Raise RL about 1/8" (3 mm) above the PC board and solder ONLY the lead which is
connected at the top of the resistor to the copper land.

10. BEND the bottom lead of RL to the right, and around the ANODE lead of the LED. Use wire cutters to trim
any excess lead length once the lead has been bent around the LED anode lead. DO NOT SOLDER YET.

11. Temporarily re-assemble the front panel and the PC board, ensuring that the 6-pin connector is properly
inserted into its PC board holes. Ensure that the front panel and the PC board are well mated and parallel to
each other, then press the green LED into its hole in the front panel so it seats properly.

12. With the new LED in place, solder the junction of RL and the LED anode lead.

13. Bend the CATHODE lead of the LED flat against the PC board and so it touches the adjacent area of the PC
board from which you scraped away the solder mask. Solder the LED CATHODE to this point on the PC
board.

14. Re-solder all (6) of the 6-pin heating element connector leads.

15. Reassemble the soldering station.

 0.70"
(17.8mm)
Figure 1 - Cut out the template at right. Then cut out the
Cut away these two sections
two marked areas so the template will clear the temp.
of the template to allow the
control bearing and the heating element jack when laid on template to fit over the temp
top of the front panel. Tape the template into place on the control bearing & heating 1.33"
(33.8mm)
FRONT SIDE of the front panel. CAREFULLY center element connector
punch the point where the hole is to be drilled. Drill a
3/16" (4.75mm) hole from the front. You may want to first
drill a smaller 'pilot' hole and work up, in steps, to the
larger final hole diameter. This will often help reduce the
chances of paint chipping, etc. Then, use a larger (hand- Drill 3/16"
(4.75mm)
held) bit (or a reamer) from the back side to 'hollow out' the hole here
back of the hole just enough to allow the tip of the new
LED to extend out the front of the front panel to the same
extent as that of the red LED. If the green LED is allowed
to protrude a bit farther than the red LED, it will be more
readily noticed as you use the device in a normal working
environment. Figure 1.
HAKKO 936-X T/C Soldering Station Front Panel
(Viewed from the FRONT SIDE)
Rev.: 03/09/2011 v4.1
Figure 2. Hakko 936-x PC board preparation Figure 3. Hakko 936-x PC board - New Components
(as viewed from the SOLDER SIDE of the PC board) Bend existing (as viewed from the SOLDER SIDE of the PC board) Green
power resistor T1-3/4
out of the way LED with flat
(TOP of PCB) (cathode) side
away from RL
Scrape solder and bent flat
mask away against PC
from this part board to touch
LED (shorter)
of the land. Cathode lead cleaned and
Drill four (4) tinned land)
holes (.025" to
.04" dia.) in
PC board at Anode
points shown (longer lead)

After drilling, Limiting

scrape solder Resistor (RL)
mask away (Insulate Leads
from this part & raise above
of the land. PC board)