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Cooking green and eating clean at Madrid Fusión Manila

issue 2, 2017
THE BEST FREE
OF THE
PHILIPPINES:
provincial
4 week
restaurants, must-
buy pasalubong and
our most memorable
food experiences

LUTONG
52
PROBINSYA
AND OTHER
FAVORITE
DISHES

INIHAW
FROM OUR
HOMETOWNS
Chicken inasal
by Chef Jessie
Sincioco

NOW!
Issue 2, 2017

Lutong Probinsya
26
Fire Up the Grill
From inihaw na baboy
to chicken barbecue, it’s
the perfect season for
Pinoy-style grills
By Yvette Tan

86
Madrid Fusión
Manila comes
back for the third
year
The biggest
gastronomic event
of the year was all
about sustainability,
community and eating
well in every sense of
the word
By The FOOD Team

41
Cooking from
the Heart
The young chef-
scholars of Youth
With A Future show
how hard work, talent
and an open heart can
change lives
By Marilen
Fontanilla

67
It’s More Fun in
the Philippines
And we’ll show you
why in this quick list of
the best food finds from
all over the country
By The FOOD team

2 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


REGULARS
2 Food Loves
7 Starter MENU
9 Tastings
103 Events GUIDE
2017, Issue 2
FEATURES
34 Everyday Dinners
There’s nothing more
comforting than hearty soups
from one’s childhood COLUMNS
By Chris de Jesus
16 Sweet Stuff
41 Cook It Five Ways The perfect marriage of ube and
Chili can enliven your dishes in macapuno
more ways than you can imagine By Joey E. Prats
By Sharwin L. Tee
17 Homegrown
Guinataang hito from South
FOOD TOUR Cotabato
By Tatung Sarthou
96 A Sojourn to Ozamiz,
Misamis Occidental 18 Back to Basics
By Troy Barrios A beginner’s banana
crumble pie
By Jill F. Sandique
HOME BASICS
DINING OUT
80 Light and Right
Seaweed: a gift from the sea 19 A guide to FOOD’s favorite
By Nancy Dizon-Edralin new restaurants

83 Simply Desserts
Playful Pinoy sweets
By Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla

86 Cooking Class
How to modernize two great
classics
By Gene Gonzalez

90 D.I.Y
Not your usual atchara
By Tina Concepcion Diaz

93 30 Minutes or Less
Tasty rice bowls to fill you up
By Michelle Adrillana

108 Last Bite


Five chefs, one dinner at
Gallery Vask
By Ginny Mata

4 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


RECIPE BOX

Starters Mains Sides 92 Pickled finger


40 Batchochay 84 7107 sisig 103 Breakfast noodles chilies
58 Capunatina 89 Adobo del diablo 93 Chorizo rice 91 Pickled
41 Grilled 41 Chicken inasal 47 Efu noodles with watermelon rind
Mediterranean 102 Grilled chili garlic oil 90 Pickling juice
vegetable salad miso-glazed cod 103 Mushroom and 99 Red cabbage
31 Kesong puti 41 Grilled seafood spinach strata, atchara
tomato salad medley grilled sausages 91 Red radish atchara
55 “Liang ban style 40 Guinataang hito and grilled
chicken” salad 48 Guinataang tinola tomatoes with pesto Desserts
40 Lomo lomo 47 Honey XO wings 101 Mushroom and 76 Chocnut turon
80 Sea grapes salad 41 Inihaw na liempo three-bell pepper fry 84 La Bulakeña turon
with balsamic glaze 76 Krispy kare-kare 81 Nori rice balls 64 Lelut mais
82 Seaweed tempura 47 Lu rou fan (braised 95 Pinakbet rice with 47 Spicy taro sago
with wasabi mayo pork) kare-kareng gulay 24 Sweet banana
40 Sinampalukang 64 Mama Sita’s 94 Spicy sesame rice crumble
kambing goto arroz caldo 83 Tropical polvoron
40 Sopas mais 2 My grandma’s Condiments 20 Ube macapuno cake
ng Isabela pork tocino 90 Cucumber atchara 85 Ube palitaw
65 Tuloy salad 65 Tilapia at buro 92 Pickled apples
86 Ube vichyssoise 92 Pickled bell peppers Drink
91 Pickled corn relish 65 Tuloy Foundation
tea

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 5


Editor-in-Chief Anne Marie Ozaeta President, ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc. Ernesto L. Lopez
Managing Director Mark Yambot
Content and Editorial Director Christina N. Lopez
Managing Editor Regina Troy Barrios
Publishing Operations Head Doris Laxamana
Associate Publisher Roselle Miranda
Art Director Noel Avendaño Publishing Assistant Pamela Martin
Brand Marketing Consultant Mari Santiago
Associate Editor Ginny Mata Graphic artist Inah yozhabel que

Finance Officer Rowena D. Dote


Nutritionist & Recipe Tester Cecilia R. Esperanza, rnd Finance Analyst Sheryl A. Baria

Editorial Assistant Hannah Lopez API Ad Sales Head Monica Herrera


Sales Consultant Philip Cu-Unjieng
Account Executives Jane Ramirez, Iaree Anico,
Editorial Operations Officer Zeny Orfano-Gonzales Jenny Dayao, Melanie Magtira, Patricia Mata,
Michelle Sy-Yap, Roselyn Bisquera, Patricia Villaricas
Columnists Strategic Planning Manager Jamie Victoria
Joey E. Prats, Jill F. Sandique, Digital Sales Manager Rex Anthony Fontanoza
Advertising Traffic Assistant Rizza Miralles
Tatung Sarthou
Events Manager Love Andaya
Photographers Marketing Artists Christian Louis Manuel, Kara Louise Jimenez
Jar Concengco, Eugene Constantino,
Head, Advertorial and Special Publications Ruby Gonzalez
Paul del Rosario, Ricky Ladia, Pat Mateo, Paulo Valenzuela
Production Specialist Athena Fregillana
Senior Art Director Sherwin Llames
Writers Art Directors Raff Colmenar, Alphard Buenaventura
Marilen Fontanilla, Yvette Tan Editorial Assistant Arlyn Rosales

Retail Operations Head Kristine Hernandez


Stylists
Vendor Manager Joy T. Pedraza
Angelique Abesamis-Castro, Tina Concepcion Diaz, Vendor and Marketing Manager Sharleen Jayne Soon
Nancy Dizon-Edralin, Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla Logistics Supervisor Fernando Tioyao

Pre-press Production Manager Andy Lizardo


Recipe Developers
Pre-press Sales Manager Teresita Bayani
Michelle Adrillana, Chris de Jesus, Pre-press Production Supervisor Gil Cargason Jr.
Tina Concepcion Diaz, Nancy Dizon-Edralin, Gene Gonzalez, Art Director Alex Dulay
Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla, Jessie Sincioco, Sharwin Tee Desktop Operator Seb Cachola
Printing Coordinator Jouie Mar Doca
General Services Head Arnel C. Bon
HR Account Officer Anika Gregorio
Administrative assistant Robyn tongol

COO, Sky Cable Corporation and Head, Narrowcast Antonio S. Ventosa


Senior Finance Officer, Narrowcast Myca G. Ramos
Ad Sales Cluster Head Jenny Silverio
Marketing Head, Narrowcast Terry Villareal
HR Cluster Head, Narrowcast and Star Creatives Jovie Sy

ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc. is a member of ABS-CBN Cable Channels


and Print Media Group.

8/F ELJ Communications Center, Mother Ignacia Avenue


cor. Eugenio Lopez Jr. Avenue, Quezon City 1103, Philippines
Editorial: Tel. No. 415-2272 local 4645; Fax No. 415-1215
or email food@abs-cbn.com
Advertising: Tel. Nos. 415-2272 local 4655; 924-4101 to 02 local 4668 to 74

Chicken Inasal Copyright May 2017 ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc.


Recipe by Jessie Sincioco All rights reserved. All submissions become the property of FOOD Magazine.
Photography by Paul del Rosario Printed in the Philippines. No part of this magazine may be used or reproduced in any
Styling by Tina Concepcion Diaz
manner whatsoever without the written permission of ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc.

For orders and subscription inquiries, please call


415-2810 or 415-2272 local 4826, and look for Lizzel.

6 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Starter

A Probinsyana Mindset

Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO | Shot on location at THE GROVE BY ROCKWELL


I
’m no probinsyana. I’ve lived in the city my entire life and would only get glimpses
of the country life when visiting relatives in Batangas and Negros Occidental
or going on food tours for FOOD Magazine. But these short trips are always
memorable—the eating is good, the prices cheaper, and the locals get a kick out
of plying you with too much food! I’ve always believed that the best Filipino food
is to be had outside Manila, whether it’s the freshest tuna kinilaw in Davao or the
juiciest chicken inasal in Bacolod. With these memories so vivid in my mind, we’ve
compiled many of FOOD’s most special food experiences in this issue. Our list is too
short, I admit, but it does give a sense of how rich and varied our food is, and even
with multiple visits to a province or town, there’s still so much more to discover.
One such place featured in this issue is faraway Ozamiz where we sampled new
flavors and visited its still unspoiled attractions.
The probinsya life is about keeping things simple, taking things nice and slow,
and we’ve got delicious homegrown recipes to prove it. Chef Jessie Sincioco
reminisces about grilling with her family in Bulacan. Chef Chris de Jesus shares
hearty soups from his childhood in Ilocos Sur. Chef Gene Gonzalez cooks pork
adobo the way it’s done in his hometown of Sulipan, Pampanga.
There’s much to learn about living in the countryside: a sensitivity to nature and
its seasons, a predilection for fresh and local ingredients, a certain frugality where
nothing goes to waste, and a heightened sense of community. Funnily enough, some
of the world’s most acclaimed chefs espoused these very same values at this year’s
Madrid Fusión Manila which delved into the theme of “sustainable gastronomy”—
an avant-garde term for an old-fashioned way of living. Imagine that, probinsyanos
have been cooking green and eating clean all their lives!
While I can never claim to be a probinsyana, I hope to adopt a bit of that
mindset amidst the frenzy of modern city life. The rules are simple: slow down and
take it easy, eat local as much as you can, and don’t waste food. And when things
get really stressful, take your car and drive a few hours outside of the city to relish a
simple meal, breathe the fresh air and see the stars.

Editor-In-Chief Like us on facebook.com/FOODMagazine

Follow us on Instagram: @FOODMagazine

contributors
Michelle A food blogger Marilen
Adrillana is one turned photog- Fontanilla first
busy chef. She rapher, Eugene forayed into pro-
runs her catering Constantino fessional writing
company, Flavors on regularly shoots via an article in
Fire; works as a res- food for various FOOD, back when
taurant consultant; restaurants and it was just a few
and just recently, establishments. His years old and was
she opened Stew, day job is digital the only culinary
her quaint hole-in- analytics manager magazine in the
the-wall restaurant in San Juan. Being for a digital marketing firm. He braved country. As a writer and editor, Marilen
a wife and mom with two active kids the six-day trip to Mindanao to shoot for has used her voice to advocate issues
keeps her even busier, so she’s used to Food Tour Ozamiz on page 104. that can transform, shift and uplift the
preparing quick-cooking dishes packed food industry. Her most recent story
with flavor, like her Asian rice bowls on on the young scholars of Youth With A
page 101. Future is on page 66.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 7


trends | finds | news | media | travel

GULAY TO GO
Organic, seasonal vegetables delivered straight to your doorstep
By GINNY MATA
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA Styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ

W
ith the popularity of organic vegetable delivery
DOWN TO EARTH
services in the metro, it’s clear that we’re living
Down To Earth produce is grown
in more enlightened times when it comes to the in the foothills of Mt. Kitanglad,
way we think about and work with food. We’ve Bukidnon, and theirs is one of the
come to recognize that it’s important to know few truly sustainable biodynamic
how and where our produce is grown, to pay proper tribute farms in the Philippines. They
JURZKDUGWRˉQGKHLUORRP
to the farmers who work hard to provide us with delicious, specialty vegetables like
organically grown vegetables for our daily meals. As Good sweet baby carrots, baby
Food Community’s slogan says, “let’s save the world one French beans, baby mesclun,
bayong at a time!” baby tatsoi, frisée lettuce and
heirloom tomatoes. They also
grow microgreens and edible
ˊRZHUV www.downtoearth.ph

TERAOK A FAMILY FARM


In operation since 1992, this is
a family-owned 200-hectare
organic farm in Pangasinan.
They grow specialty produce
like striped eggplants, heirloom
eggplants, heirloom tomatoes,
About Good Food Community cape gooseberries, purple and
These gorgeous kamote leaves white corn, heirloom squash,
(or tops) are part of Good Food Tuscan kale and rare fruits like
Community’s “Gulay Pambahay balimbing, anonas, pomegranate
Package.” This is a 3.5 kilo tampipi and more. While they do
of hearty and leafy seasonal deliveries in select areas in
vegetables with a variety of 9 Metro Manila, you can also buy
from their stall at UpMarket at
to 12 vegetables (kamote, upo,
Alphaland Makati. Facebook:
kangkong, eggplants, saba bananas,
Teraoka Family Farm
etc.) delivered every week to
your doorstep. Think of it as a HOLY CARABAO FARMS
market challenge a la Top Chef! Founded by Hindy Weber-Tantoco
Good Food Community is about and Melanie Teng-Go in 2007,
growing a sustainable society this biodynamic farm was one
that nourishes everyone—you, RIWKHˉUVWWRRIIHURUJDQLF
the farmers and the land for vegetable deliveries in the
generations to come through metro. “We strive to improve the
community shared agriculture (CSA). lives of everyone we work with
CSA is a sustainable alternative from farmer to packer to driver
distribution system that supports to salesperson and ultimately
smallholder organic farmers by to you,” they declare. They
subscribing to prepaid local and have many products on offer,
seasonal vegetables delivered including an Asian Veggie Box,
weekly to your community. It a Continental Veggie Box, and a
provides farmers with stable subscription-based Healthy Habit
Box (with each box containing
demand and guarantees you
Php 1,500 worth of fresh,organic
a share of the harvest too.
produce for 4 consecutive weeks).
www.goodfoodcommunity.com www.holycarabao.com

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 9


TASTINGS | trends

No-Fuss Juicing
If you like juicing for
health reasons, Good Salad Days
Food Community can Also from Good Food
make it easier for Community, this salad
you with their juicing pack is a half-kilo mix
package. The juice of any organically
pack from their partner grown salad greens
farmers in upland such as mizuna, lollo
communities contains rossa, carlo rossa,
2 kilos of hearty arugula, green ice,
veggies like carrots iceberg, romaine, herbs,
and beetroots, mixed and a sprinkling of
with a bundle or two hearty veggies that
of leafy vegetables can be eaten raw, such
like kale or spinach. as these beautiful
cherry tomatoes.

Super Food, Super Corn


Homegrown Organics specializes in producing
purple corn, a superfood that is rich in
antioxidants, anthocyanins, B Vitamins and
ˉEHU2UJDQLFSHVWLFLGHIUHHDQGQRQ*02LWȠV
great as a snack or when mixed in your dishes.
Aside from purple corn, Homegrown Organics
also sells other organic products like green
peppercorns, salad greens, carrots, and the like.
Facebook: homegrownorganicsph

Live Green PH
Theirs is an
RIˉFLDO2UJDQLF
&HUWLˉFDWLRQ&HQWHU
of the Philippines
2&&3 FHUWLˉHG
company engaged
in the growing,
production,
processing and
distribution of
fresh organic
vegetables from
Benguet Province
and Tanay, Rizal.
www.livegreen.ph

10 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


TASTINGS | media

books

Text by GINNY MATA | Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA


What Good Cooks
Know: 20 Years of Test
Kitchen Expertise In One
Essential Handbook
America’s Test Kitchen, 2016
This book is a must-have for
food geeks, food lovers, and all
people who love to cook. It’s
a rich compendium of kitchen
knowledge, exhaustively tested
and collated by the editors of
America’s Test Kitchen over the
last 20 years. Spanning the entire
culinary spectrum, it features dozens
of equipment recommendations,
hundreds of ingredient entries,
basic cooking skills lessons and
lots of useful kitchen science, and
illustrated step-by-step instructions for 50 of its most essential recipes such
as classic barbecued chicken, Tuscan pork loin with garlic and rosemary,
HJJSODQWSDUPHVDQ EDNHU\VW\OH PXIˉQV DQG GHHSGLVK DSSOH SLH

Mad Hungry Family: 120 Golden: Sweet & V Street: 100 Globe- Patikim, Pokie! A
Essential Recipes To Savory Baked Delights Hopping Plates On Hugot Cookbook And
Feed The Whole Crew from the Ovens of The Cutting Edge Of More … Ganern!
By Lucinda Scala Quinn London’s Honey & Co. Vegetable Cooking By Marietta “Pokwang”
Artisan, 2016 By Itamar Srulovich By Rich Landau and Subong
James Beard Award-nominated and Sarit Packer Kate Jacoby ABS-CBN Publishing, 2017
cookbook author Lucinda Scala Little Brown, 2016 William Morrow, 2016 Popular comedian Pokwang
Quinn has always advocated London’s Honey & Co. is known By seeking inspiration from takes a stab at cooking, the hugot
that families should cook and for making delightful Middle different ethnic and street way. The book’s blurb reads:
eat dinner at home every day Eastern pastries and savory foods all over the world, Chefs “Nagmahal. Nasaktan. Nagluto!
of the week. That’s no mean baked goods. In this book, Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby (Joke!)” It’s a laugh-out-loud kind
feat for Quinn, who is herself chefs Srulovich and Packer of Philadelphia’s nationally of cookbook, with lots of funny
a professional chef and a busy share their recipes in great acclaimed restaurants Vedge and anecdotes about Pokwang’s life.
mother of four children. In the detail. From many different V Street have made vegetables These are her favorite recipes,
ˉIWK ERRN LQ KHU Mad Hungry kinds of jam to sweet and the star of the show. Exotic spices and have been personally
series, she once again shares savory breakfasts to traditional DQG EROG ˊDYRUV VKLQH WKURXJK LQ kitchen-tested by FOOD
WKH QRIXVV ELJˊDYRU UHFLSHV Middle Eastern desserts, none these recipes, with an emphasis magazine’s nutritionist and
that her family loves, which other than legendary pastry on quick, casual meals that recipe tester, Cecilia Esperanza
are interesting without being chef David Lebovitz himself they serve in their restaurants, too! Available at National
pretentious, yet simple enough has said that “(he) would like such as sticks (e.g. Israeli grilled Bookstore and Powerbooks
to recreate at home. to make every recipe in this eggplant and char siu tempeh),
bo
ook, and (we) should too!” snacks (e.g. papadums with
whipped dal and salchipapas),
b wls (e.g. spicy chana stew,
bow
andd V Street ramen).

Available at POWERBOOKS

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 11


TASTINGS | finds
SHOP
SMALL BUT POWERFUL:
THE NEW Vitamix: GOURMET
KITCHENAID Ultimate Power SHOPPING AT
ARTISAN MINI in a Blender UPMARKET
If you don’t have enough kitchen The Vitamix is so much more than Gourmands looking for organic and
space for the iconic KitchenAid just a regular blender. More powerful, artisanal products can now go to
Stand Mixer, then you’ll love the new it pulverizes every ingredient, with UpMarket at Alphaland Makati Place,
KitchenAid Artisan Mini. It’s 20% no chunks in sight, perfect for nut which offers hard-to-find, high-quality
smaller and 25% lighter, but yes, butters and gluten-free flours. And it goods conveniently under one roof,
it’s just as powerful, with the same can heat up soups while blending— seven days a week, from 11 AM to 8
patented planetary mixing action. without a heating element! You can PM. UpMarket’s products include Spice
Bakers will love the nifty new soft start prepare smoothies, salad dressings, & Cleaver sausages, Kitayama Wagyu
feature (0.5 speed), perfect when hummus, even make your own beef, organic vegetables (Teraoka
adding dry ingredients while mixing ice cream. Dependable and built Farms, Balesin Bounty), artisan snacks
but without the spillage. The Mini to last, the Vitamix is easy to use, by Chili Asylum, Gustare, The Cracking
comes with a flat beater, wire whip, making food prepping easy and Monkey, Chelcie’s Homemade Spreads,
dough hook and a 3.5-quart bowl. healthier. Available at Rustan’s, The Fruit Garden Jams, Take Fruit
It can also fit 14 of the KitchenAid Gourdo’s, Living Well, The Parenting Junk-Free Snacks, Malagos Chocolate,
attachments, like the Food Grinder Emporium, Earth Origins, Healthy Tita Rio’s Garlic Sauce, Pinkie’s Farm
or Pasta Sheet Roller Set. Match the Eats Makati, Chimes Store Davao, dairy, cakes, Carmen’s Best Ice Cream,
Mini to your kitchen with Automatic Center, Abenson, Landers Joe’s Brew and Pedro Brewcrafters
any of its six attractive
ttractive Superstore and online at www. craft beers, wines by the Philippine
colors: Matte B Black, esuperfoodgrocer,com, www. Wine Merchants, and much more.
Matte Grey, Tw wilight holycarabao.com and www.lazada. G/F The Shops at Alphaland Makati
Blue, Hot Sauc ce, Guava com.ph
c Place, Malugay Street corner Ayala
Glaze and Hon ney Avenue Extension, Makati, (0917) 650-
Dew. Availa in all 0865, info@upmarket.ph. Visit www.
KitchenAid Ex xperience upmarket.ph
Centers, Colem man
Service
Centers,
and online
at www.
lazada.
com.ph/
kitchenaid
and tackthis.
ph/shop/
KitchenAid.
Visit www.
KitchenAid.com.ph or join Facebook.
com/KitchenAidPHL

DRINK
A COGNAC FOR SUMMERY PROUDLY PINOY
PLEASURE STRAWBERRY VODKA CRAFT BEER
SEEKERS COCKTAILS Joe’s Brew is a proud 100% Filipino
Just read this sexy description of Fresh strawberries are gently pressed craft beer, made from quality
how Hedonist Cognac is made: take into pulp then mixed with crystal- ingredients. It comes in three different
a premium Cognac blended from 35 clear vodka, with just a variants, ranging from the mildest
eaux-de-vies from Grand Champagne, squeeze of lime. The result to the strongest. We like the slightly
infuse it with natural ginger and is this summer drink. Pour sweet Sierra Madre wheat ale, with
Madagascar vanilla cooked in sugar over crushed ice, mix with
h 5% ABV, and the smooth, medium-
grapes, age it for five months—and sparkling wine or use as vbodied Soothsayer pale ale with
voila! Enjoy on the rocks or mix with dessert topping. Or try 4% ABV respectively. Available at
sparkling wine one of the six unique UpMarket at Alphaland Makati Place.
or soda water, Xuxu-infused cocktails Instagram: joesbrew
then garnish with at The Lounge of
fresh lime. Hyatt City of Dreams.
AWC Philippines, Available until May
2/F Alegria Alta 30 at Hyatt City of
Building, Chino Dreams Manila, Belle
Roces Extension, Avenue, Pasay. Visit
Makati. Visit www. cityofdreamsmanila.
awc.com.ph hyatt.com

12 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


EAT
BEAT Magnum Richer, Creamier
THE HEAT White Chocolate Frozen Custard
Indulgences by FIC
WITH Magnum #NeverStopPlaying is a Fruits in Ice Cream (FIC) celebrates
NOVOTEL’S delicious invitation to take a break
and enjoy life’s little indulgences,
its 20th anniversary with its new
line of premium Frozen Custard

ICE N especially Magnum’s latest, most


decadent white chocolate flavors.
that harks back to old fashioned ice
cream recipes that used eggs for

CREAM Inspired by one of the most globally-


searched premium desserts, the
extra creaminess. (Most modern ice
creams don’t contain eggs anymore.)
The new ice cream line at Novotel brand new Magnum Red Velvet is FIC’s Frozen Custard boasts a richer,
offers 18 original flavors like Purple crafted with decadent red velvet ice more luxurious texture, with lower
Dream (purple yam, jackfruit), alcohol- cream, a rich cream cheese flavored overrun than commercial ice creams.
infused sorbets like Tijuana Surprise swirl, and wrapped in exclusive white FIC debuted four basic “comfort”
(cucumber, dalandan, tequila) or Belgian chocolate with cream cheese flavors with unique formulations—old-
sugar-free options like Oh Honey flavor. Magnum White Almond is the fashioned, buttery Mantecado Real;
Honey (honey, calamansi, yogurt). same decadent white chocolate ice extra creamy Vanilla Bean made with
Executive chef Michael Schnauss cream bar we all know and love, in a real vanilla pods; intense Espresso
created each flavor, all gluten-free, fresh new look to match Magnum’s with dark roasted Arabica beans;
all-natural and homemade with no new #NeverStopPlaying attitude. and decadent Dark Chocolate Truffle
stabilizers or preservatives. Novotel Available in all leading supermarkets using premium Belgian chocolate.
Manila Araneta Center, Facebook: and convenience stores nationwide. FIC products are made with 100%
NovotelManilaAranetaCenter Visit www.magnumicecream.com and milk from New Zealand and Australia,
follow Facebook: MagnumPH without any vegetable fat and non-
dairy substitutes like other commercial
“ice cream” brands. In fact, there is
a glass of milk in every scoop of FIC.
FIC is exported to North America, Asia
and the Middle East, and is available
locally at select supermarkets and
distributors. Visit fruitsinicecream.com

DINE
Le Petit Soufflé High Tea: Choose French or Japanese
This charming French-Japanese fusion restaurant recently launched its
wonderful multicultural adaptation of High Tea. For the French High Tea, you’ll
be served lavender lemon tea, orange and almond scones with homemade
clotted cream, Camembert and apple tartine, cheese profiteroles, foie
gras and raspberry L’Opera. The Japanese High Tea experience includes
matcha genmaicha, a matcha scone served with adzuki red bean paste and
homemade clotted cream, furikake, chasyu and mayo tartine, a matcha
and black sesame cheese puff and other delights. Le Petit Soufflé’s quaint
twinkling lights and alfresco inspired interiors is the perfect setting for
this relaxed afternoon delight. 3/F Century City Mall, Kalayaaan Avenue,
Makati City; 2/F Mega Fashion Hall, SM Megamall, EDSA, Mandaluyong; UP
Town Center, Katipunan Avenue, Quezon City; Facebook: Le Petit Soufflé

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 13


TASTINGS | travel

Stunning
SIEM REAP
Cambodia’s ancient capital lures
hordes of tourists who flock to its
grandiose temples and shrines.
But for adventurous food lovers,
the country’s rich, bold, aromatic
cuisine is just as memorable
Text and photos by ANNE MARIE OZAETA

1Superb Cambodian
fare at Chanrey Tree
This stylish spot is one of
Siem Reap’s most popular
restaurants—and with good
reason. The traditional
Khmer food here happens to
be excellent. Try the signature
Char Khroeung, a curry paste
of lemongrass, turmeric,
lime leaf and galangal, that
is quickly stir-fried with a
choice of river fish, beef or
frog legs. Another best seller
is Roasted Khmer Chicken
(pictured) marinated with
honey and rice brandy, served
with young jackfruit and
a sweet chili sauce. www.

Photo courtesy of R AFFLES GR AND HOTEL D’ANGKOR


chanreytree.com

2 High tea at Raffles


Grand Hotel
d’Angkor
The grandest hotel in
Siem Reap is the historic
Raffles, first opened in
1932, since then refurbished cream and jam. Or you can
and modernized, but opt for the more popular
still retaining much of its Khmer tea involving fresh
colonial architecture and tropical fruit, savory snacks
tropical charm. If you’re like fried wontons and satay,
not a hotel guest, the best and delicate Khmer pastries,
way to experience this similar to our kakanin.
landmark is to sit in The Enjoy, of course, your Archaeological Park. Eateries like a custard, and usually
Conservatory, the cozy lobby choice of English tea, served range from simple shacks served in a banana leaf cup.
area overlooking the pool impeccably by the waitstaff. to air-conditioned venues However, most restaurants,
and gardens, listen to the www.raffles.com/siem-reap to escape the heat, dust and including the ones in the
Filipino pianist playing your crowds during your temple temple area, serve it as a
favorite nostalgic tunes, and
indulge in the hotel’s famous
afternoon high tea. You
3Fish amok near
Angkor Wat
For a much-needed lunch
visit. While the menus are
geared towards tourists, they
all offer Cambodia’s national
simple curry stew or soup.
No matter how it is served,
fish amok is a delightful dish,
can choose a Western tea break after your morning dish, fish amok. It’s essentially reminiscent of Thai curry,
composed of a three-tier tray temple tour, there are a host a fish curry made with kaffir, just as aromatic but gentler
of tea sandwiches, pastries, of restaurants to choose coconut milk, kroeung paste in flavor, with more distinct
and scones with clotted from inside the vast Angkor and nhor leaves, that’s steamed coconut cream notes.

14 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


SHINTA MANI
RESORT
AND SHINTA
MANI CLUB
Siem Reap
offers all sorts of
accommodations,
from modest hostels
to boutique inns and
luxury hotels. For those
looking for luxury at a
reasonable price, Shinta
Mani Resort fits the bill.
It’s centrally located,
and boasts beautiful
Khmer-inspired
interiors, upscale rooms
and modern amenities.
Across the street is
the more exclusive
Shinta Mani Club
which has luxuriously

5Eat for a cause at


Spoons
Siem Reap boasts several
appointed rooms and
the Shinta Mani Spa,
the perfect respite after
“NGO restaurants” like the a long day of touring.
well-known Haven and Both hotel restaurants
Marum. The newest one to try Kroya and Bai Tong
is Spoons, operated by EGBOK serve excellent Khmer
(Everything’s Gonna Be OK) dishes, as well as
Mission, which provides international favorites.
hospitality training and shintamani.com
employment to young adults.
Constructed with sustainable
bamboo, this relaxed café
serves popular street food
classics like Num Krok or
spring onion and coconut
cream dumplings, as well as
homestyle Cambodian dishes
like a delicious whole grilled
mackerel served with coconut
turmeric rice, tamarind relish
and prohok dipping sauce.
Enjoy the simple, satisfying fare
and gracious service, and know
that you’re helping provide
for young Cambodians’ future.
www.egbokmission.org

4 A market visit to
Psar Chas (Old
Market)
also a thriving wet market
for locals who flock to it in
the early morning hours to 6 The buzz about
Cuisine Wat
A food tour of almost any shop for fresh produce and Damnak
Asian city isn’t complete have a typical Cambodian Considered Cambodia’s finest
without a visit to the market. breakfast of num banh chok restaurant, Cuisine Wat
At Siem Reap, you can’t or Khmer noodle soup at Damnak ranked No. 43 in the or six-course tasting menus
go wrong with Psar Chas, any of the nearby food stalls. 2016 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants that change often based on
adjacent to the touristy Pub For pasalubong, you can take list. Run by French chef the availability of ingredients.
Street. As the most tourist- home inexpensive sachets of Joannès Rivière, the restaurant Make sure to reserve early
friendly of the city’s markets, dried herbs and teas, or look offers a refined, sophisticated as the restaurant gets fully
Psar Chas offers the usual silk for the elusive Kampot black take on traditional Khmer booked quickly. www.
and T-shirt souvenirs, but it’s peppercorns. cuisine via a choice of two five- cuisinewatdamnak.com

FOOD |2017 Issue 2 15


sweet stuff
By Joey E. Prats

PURPLE PERFECTION
Ube and macapuno come together in
this classic Filipino cake, a gorgeous
showcase for our beloved purple yam
Photography by
PAULO VALENZUELA  WHDVSRRQ FUHDP RI WDUWDU
Styling by  FXS FDVWHU VXJDU VHFRQG

P
TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ quantity)
2 2/3 cups ube MDP ube
urple yam or ube is halaya  KRPHPDGH RU
best showcased in VWRUHERXJKW
Filipino desserts. From  FXS OLJKWO\ WRDVWHG ˉQHO\
the classic ube jam FKRSSHG FDVKHZ QXWV
(halaya) and halo- 1 1/3 cups macapuno
halo, to ice creams, cakes, FRFRQXW VSRUW  KRPHPDGH
confections and pastries, RU VWRUHERXJKWGUDLQHGRI
this popular ingredient V\UXS
is undoubtedly a crowd
favorite. 1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
I took on the challenge Set out three 9-inch round, buttercream. Top with in a saucepan. Cook over
of creating what I believe is 2-inch deep cake pans. second cake layer. Spread medium heat without
the ultimate Ube Macapuno 2. &RPELQH FDNH ˊRXU ˉUVW remaining 1 1/3 cups ube stirring, until temperature
Cake. Most bakeshops offer TXDQWLW\ RI FDVWHU VXJDU MDP RYHU FDNH IROORZHG E\  reaches 240°F.
a version of this wonderful baking powder and salt in FXS RI EXWWHUFUHDP 7RS ZLWK 2. Meanwhile, place egg
dessert, but I still haven’t a mixing bowl. Whisk until third cake layer. yolks in a mixer bowl. Using
found one as exquisite as blended. 8. )URVW WRS DQG VLGH RI FDNH the wire whip attachment,
this recipe. Ube jam and ube 3. Add egg yolks, vegetable with buttercream. Mask the whip on high speed until
buttercream are juxtaposed oil, still mineral water, ube VLGH RI WKH FDNH ZLWK ˉQHO\ OLJKW DQG ˊXII\
between tender layers of ube ˊDYRU DQG FRORU DQG SXUH chopped cashew nuts. 3. Gradually add hot syrup.
chiffon cake, and crowned vanilla extract. Whisk until 9. Place remaining Continue whipping until
with sweet macapuno strings. blended and smooth. buttercream in a pastry bag mixture is cool. Gradually
Don’t let the majestic 4. Combine egg whites and ˉWWHG ZLWK DQ  WLS 3LSH add unsalted butter.
look of this towering cake FUHDP RI WDUWDU LQ D PL[HU a shell border around top Continue whipping until
intimidate you. It’s actually bowl. Using a wire whip HGJH RI FDNH RU VLPSO\ DGG buttercream is smooth and
easier to make than you attachment, whip on high VZLUOV WR WKH IURVWLQJ XVLQJ thick. Beat in ubeˊDYRUDQG
think. VSHHG WR VRIW SHDN VWDJH DQ RIIVHW VSDWXOD 7RS WKH color.
Gradually add second FHQWHU RI FDNH ZLWK GUDLQHG
Best Ever Ube TXDQWLW\ RI FDVWHU VXJDU macapuno 5HIULJHUDWH FDNH
Macapuno Cake &RQWLQXH ZKLSSLQJ WR VWLII until ready to serve. &+()Ƞ6 127( ,I ube jam is
Serves 12 peak stage. YHU\ WKLFN DQG XQVSUHDGDEOH
5. *HQWO\ IROG HJJ ZKLWH U B E BU T T E RCR E A M: SODFH LW LQ D PL[HU ERZO DQG
EHDW RQ PHGLXP VSHHG IRU
  FXSV FDNH ˊRXU mixture into egg yolk  FXSV FDVWHU VXJDU  PLQXWHV XVLQJ WKH SDGGOH
 FXS FDVWHU VXJDU ˉUVW mixture.  FXS VWLOO PLQHUDO ZDWHU DWWDFKPHQW XQWLO LW VRIWHQV
quantity) 6. Divide batter evenly  WDEOHVSRRQV OLJKW FRUQ )ODYRFRO ube ˊDYRU DQG
 WDEOHVSRRQ EDNLQJ SRZGHU between the cake pans. V\UXS FRORU LV DYDLODEOH LQ PRVW
 WHDVSRRQ ˉQH VHD VDOW 6PRRWK WKH WRSV %DNH IRU  EDNLQJ VXSSO\ VWRUHV DQG
 PHGLXP HJJ \RONV
VXSHUPDUNHWV
 PHGLXP HJJ \RONV minutes or until cakes spring   FXSV XQVDOWHG EXWWHU
 FXS YHJHWDEOH RLO back when pressed lightly. VRIWHQHG EXW VWLOO FRRO FXW
 FXS VWLOO PLQHUDO ZDWHU Cool cakes completely in LQWR LQFK FXEHV To learn more of Chef Joey’s
 WDEOHVSRRQV ube ˊDYRU DQG FDNH SDQV EHIRUH XQPROGLQJ  WDEOHVSRRQV ube ˊDYRU DQG pastry secrets, visit Joey Prats
FRORU SUHIHUDEO\ )ODYRFRO 7. To assemble, place the FRORU SUHIHUDEO\)ODYRFRO School of Baking and Pastry Arts
EUDQG ˉUVW FDNH OD\HU RQ D LQFK EUDQG on Facebook for his schedule of
 WHDVSRRQV SXUH YDQLOOD round cake board. Spread lifestyle cooking and baking classes
H[WUDFW 1 1/3 cups ube jam over 1. Combine caster sugar, and his three-month Fundamentals
PHGLXPHJJZKLWHV FDNHIROORZHGE\FXS water and light corn syrup of Baking and Pastry Arts course.

16 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


homegrown
By Tatung Sarthou

MINDANAO’S MIGRANT COOKING


From South Cotabato comes this fish and coconut recipe with Ilonggo roots
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO | Food styling by NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN 

T
hough South Cotabato is in
the heart of Mindanao, this
southern province’s indigenous
culture does not seem to stand
out in the mainstream culinary
scene, and definitely not at Pantatan
Restaurant. In the Municipality of
Banga, this popular eatery is situated
on an obscure stretch of highway that
connects the capital of Koronadal
City to Sultan Kudarat, Sarangani
and Davao del Sur. What started as a
shack is now an open-air restaurant
that can seat over 100 guests at a time.
At Pantatan, I was in search of
traditional South Cotabato fare to
get a better understanding of the
food culture there. The restaurant is
popular for its pantat or hito (catfish)
dishes cooked in a variety of ways:
sinugba (grilled), crispy fried, adobo
and guinataan. I was particularly
interested in the guinataang pantat
which uses a duo of annatto and
turmeric to give it rich color, blended
with the aroma of chilies, ginger and
lemongrass. Imagine my surprise to
learn that this dish is more of a local
innovation, without any demonstrable
indigenous roots!
Pantatan is actually owned by
Ilonggos who migrated to the area
after World War II. South Cotabato
has a great number of migrants,
mostly Hiligaynon-speaking peoples
from Panay and Negros in the Guinataang Hito YLQHJDU DQQDWWR RLO VDOW DQG SHSSHU 6HW
Visayas. They settled around the Serves 4 to 6 DVLGH
towns of Norala, Surallah, Sto. Niño, 2. 3DQJULOO WKH PDULQDWHG FDWˉVK
Koronadal and Banga, where Pantatan 1/2 kilo hito FDWˉVK  FXW LQWR VHUYLQJ  3. ,Q D VHSDUDWH SDQ VDXW« RQLRQV JDUOLF
is located. Meanwhile, Ilocanos SLHFHV ginger and chopped siling labuyo
from Luzon settled in the towns of  WDEOHVSRRQ WXUPHULF SRZGHU 4. Add the kakang gata DQG OHW LW ERLO
Tampakan, Tantangan and Tupi,  FXS YLQHJDU 6LPPHU IRU  PLQXWHV 6HDVRQ ZLWK VDOW
which explains why Ilocano pinakbet  WDEOHVSRRQV DQQDWWR RLO DQG SHSSHU
is also very popular in the region. VDOW DQG SHSSHU WR WDVWH 5. $GG WKH SDQJULOOHG FDWˉVKDQGVLPPHU
Migration and intermarriage are  PHGLXP RQLRQV PLQFHG IRU DQRWKHU  PLQXWHV
important factors in the evolution  FORYHV JDUOLF PLQFHG
of our cuisine over the decades, let  WKXPEVL]HG NQRE JLQJHU VOLFHG This recipe appeared in Chef Tatung’s award-
alone centuries. And this peek into 3 siling labuyo ELUGȠV H\H FKLOL  FKRSSHG winning cookbook, 3KLOLSSLQH &RRNHU\ )URP
+HDUW WR 3ODWWHU His latest book is called Rice to
a simple Pantatan recipe gives much   FXSV kakang gata FRFRQXW PLON WKH 2FFDVLRQ You can catch him cooking every
insight, not only into the region’s Monday on 8PDJDQJ .D\ *DQGD on Channel 2,
flavors, but into its history as well. 1. 0DULQDWHFDWˉVKLQWXUPHULFSRZGHU or at his restaurant Agos in SM Mall of Asia.

FOOD |2017 Issue 2 17


back to basics
By Jill F. Sandique

EASY
AS PIE
Are you new at
baking? This sweet
banana crumble
recipe is a good place
to start
Photography by

M
PAULO VALENZUELA

any people think


that baking is
intimidating
because it seems
difficult. But when
you finally learn how to
bake, you will discover the
sheer joy in mixing together
flour, butter and sugar to
create a cake, pie or any
sweet delicacy. In this recipe,
I’ve used the lowly saba Banana Crumble sliced bananas and cook for immediately with ice cream
banana, which you can find 6HUYHV  another 15 to 20 minutes or or whipped cream on top.
anywhere, to create a simple until bananas are done, and
fruit crumble that is easy 1 1/4 cups light brown syrup turns into a golden S TREUSE L:
to make and will always be sugar, lightly packed amber color. 1 cup sifted all-purpose
a hit at home. Unlike a pie 1 1/2 cups water 4. Remove pan from heat ˊRXU
that has a crust, the crumble pinch of salt DQG DGG WKH EXWWHU 6WLU 1/4 cup rolled or instant
has a streusel topping, and 5 to 6 medium bananas, to combine then cool oats
the filling can either be preferably saba cultivar completely. 1/3 cup brown sugar
sweet or savory. When 2 to 3 tablespoons butter 5. Transfer cooled mixture pinch of salt
a filling is topped with a into prepared ovenproof 1/2 cup butter
biscuit or dumpling dough, 1. In a medium saucepan, containers, preferably made
or some kind of rich batter, put together light brown of glass, porcelain or any ,Q D ERZO WRVV WRJHWKHU ˊRXU
the concoction is called a sugar, water and salt. Place RYHQSURRI GLVK 6HW DVLGH DQG RDWV $GG EURZQ VXJDU
cobbler. pan over high heat and bring until ready to serve. DQG VDOW &XW LQ WKH EXWWHU
For a beginner in the PL[WXUH WR D ERLO 6. When ready to serve, until the mixture resembles
art and science of baking, 2. Meanwhile, peel and slice top bananas in syrup with FRDUVH FRUQPHDO &KLOO
I encourage you to try bananas into 1/2-inch thick streusel topping (recipe slightly before using.
making this recipe. Its SLHFHV 6HW DVLGH EULHˊ\ EHORZ  %DNH LQ D SUHKHDWHG
ingredients are easy to find 3. When sugar is completely 375°F oven for 25 to 35 Chef Jill is a culinary consultant,
and a lead trainor for the United
and the procedure simple dissolved and syrup minutes until the streusel States Department of Agriculture.
to follow. Baking success is becomes slightly thick, becomes golden brown. She is also the owner of Delize
guaranteed! lower heat to medium. Add 7. 6HUYHEDQDQDFUXPEOH Cakes and Pastries.

18 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


the best new eats in town

MAN HO AT
MARRIOTT
HOTEL
MANILA
In spite of the multitude of
Chinese restaurants in the
city, it’s not always easy
to find a place that offers
something different. But the
newest restaurant of Marriott
Hotel Manila is surely worth
a visit for the many surprises
that Chef Law Wui Wing has
in store. At Man Ho, Chef
Law is able to offer many of
the lavish dishes he would
cook for banquets at the
hotel. The menu is filled with
Cantonese classics, including
dim sum, as well as more
creative dishes like Braised
Seafood Soup featuring a
tofu flan topped with caviar,
or Chilled Mango Cream
with Sago and Pomelo. But
the standout dish may very
well be the Hong Kong-style
Roasted Goose, a rarity in
Manila, which is fan-dried
for up to ten hours before
roasting to make the skin
extra crispy. Also worth
ordering is the Steamed
Garoupa with Soy Sauce,
topped with a profusion of
cilantro for a refreshingly
clean flavor, as well as the
stir-fried Beef Tenderloin with
Black Pepper Sauce. With
its high ceilings and elegant
wood décor, Man Ho fits right
in as the landmark restaurant
of the new Marriott West
Wing, which boasts its own
driveway, lobby and bar to
service its premium rooms
and suites. — Anne Marie
Ozaeta
Marriott West Wing, Marriott
Hotel Manila, 2 Resorts Drive,
Newport City, Pasay City,
(02) 988-9999 ext. 3318,
www.manilamarriott.com
Man Ho’s Steamed Garoupa with Soy Sauce

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 19


DINING OUT ASIAN FLAVORS

WARUNG KAPITOLYO INDONESIAN CUISINE

S
isters, best friends and
business partners Louh
Decena and Teresa
Doctora developed a shared
love of Indonesian food
while they lived in Jakarta
for several decades. Tess
returned to the Philippines
in 2004, they opened
the popular Warung
Warung food stall in 83
the Legazpi Market EAST
CAPITOL
in 2006, and the DRIVE,
rest is history. For KAPITOLYO,
PASIG CITY,
over ten years, (0917) 800-9158, FL AVORS AND SPICES Usually served during special
they have been (0917) 534- occasions, Nasi Tumpeng is a cone-shaped rice dish with
selling authentic 7089 Indonesian meat and vegetable side dishes surrounding it
Indonesian food to
sell-out crowds every place can get really packed! heavy on the cardamom) Indonesian chili peppers
Sunday, with their fresh and Start with the crunchy paired with perfectly grilled from their farm in Malvar,
frozen tempe running out shrimp or garlic krupuk Sate Ayam (chicken skewers Batangas, and other ground
well before noon. Due to (rice crackers) and delicious marinated in the same spices). For the requisite
insistent customer demand, Gado-Gado (warm tofu, housemade peanut sauce sweet ending to this
they’ve recently put up a fresh vegetables, slathered as the gado-gado), and the fabulous meal, their subtly
beautiful brick-and-mortar in housemade spicy peanut fork-tender and amazingly sweet and creamy Tipis
Indonesian restaurant in dressing). Then you can’t flavorful Beef Rendang Manis (Indonesian-style thin
Kapitolyo. Make sure to go wrong with iconic (tender chunks of beef, griddle pancakes) hits the
reserve a table at least 24 Indonesian dishes like Nasi slow-cooked for hours in a spot. — Ginny Mata
hours ahead because this Goreng (spiced fried rice, mixture of coconut, fresh

RESTAURANTS REINVENTED
COWRIE COVE AT
SHANGRI-LA’S MACTAN
RESORT AND SPA

S
hangri-La’s Mactan is or roasted. With his
a deluxe resort that Michelin-starred SHANGRI-
LA’S MACTAN
has everything—lush experience, RESORT AND SPA,
gardens, private beach, Chef Daniel also PUNTA ENGANO
ROAD, LAPU-LAPU, LUXE SEASIDE DINING (From top):
spa village, well-appointed applies modernist CEBU, (032) 231-0288, Cowrie’s lovely alfresco setting; the
guest rooms and a plethora touches to his WWW.SHANGRI- Chilled Seafood Platter good for two
LA.COM/CEBU/
of dining options. Prime menu. Bohol MACTAN
among them is Cowrie Prawns are paired RESORT/
Cove that offers all you with pan-seared
expect (and more) in the foie gras, mango and
best seafood restaurant— wasabi paste. Calamansi-
seaside views, alfresco scented Crab Broth comes
balcony dining and the with ricotta and turnip
freshest seafood prepared dumplings. Rock Lobster
with finesse by executive is flavored with curry and
sous chef Daniel Quintero. served with carrot purée.
Seafood lovers will love Much of the seafood on the
the Seafood Platters, menu is ethically-sourced,
whether chilled or grilled, like the line-caught tuna,
overflowing with lobster, blue marlin and prawns,
prawns, mussels, squid, while the vegetables are
and whatever is freshest locally grown. For those Choice Beef Fillet with a relaxed and yes, romantic
for the day. Or select your looking for non-seafood poached onion and foie respite to all the fun
favorite seafood and have items, you can’t go wrong gras sauce. Open only for activities the resort has to
it steamed, grilled, stir-fried with the Roasted US dinner, Cowrie Cove offers offer. — A. M. O.

20 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


FOOD PARK

FUN DINING Sinigang na Bangus Belly (top) and


1HJUHQVH6L]]OLQJ%HHI5HQGDQJ ERWWRP

THE FOOD HIVE


We love food parks. They’re 70
VISAYAS
far from the malls, the food AVENUE,
is unique and, best of all, DILIMAN,
QUEZON
everything’s fun and casual. CITY
At The Food Hive, some of the thefoodhive.ph
most talented chefs in the city
come together to offer some
of the best eats in town. — T. B.

BL AZE FL AMING SIZZLERS Chef Ed Bugia, the mastermind behind


JOYA LOFTS Backyard Kitchen + Brew, Pi Breakfast and Pies, and The Burger Project
& TOWER, WR QDPH MXVW D IHZ  VHUYHV XS ˊDPLQJ GLVKHV OLNH 6L]]OLQJ %XODOR 6LVLJ
AMORSOLO
DRIVE, with homemade gravy poured over, then served in a cast-iron pan.
ROCKWELL,
MAKATI YORDANOVI This
is the only Bulgarian
SARSÁ diner in the city. Try the
Kebapche (a Bulgarian
type of minced pork
KITCHEN + BAR kebab served with a
very spicy homemade
potato salad) or the

C
hef JP Anglo has been
Bulgarian Meatballs
celebrating Negrense cuisine PAPPARE RISTOR ANTI with Eggplant,
since he opened his first Chef Jarina Gem Tee makes Zucchini and Okra.
restaurant, Mu Shu, in Bacolod years fresh, handmade noodles that Chef Plamen Yordanov
ago. He remembers his pancit molo she transforms into rustic imports lactobacillus
Italian pasta infused with bulgaricus, yogurt only
garnering praise from diners. His $VLDQ ˊDYRUV +HU ,QGRQHVLDQ made in Bulgaria, and
Manila-based restaurant, Sarsá, has inspired Mee Gamberi Goreng the herb chubritsa.
been a hit since day one. But after is one hot number of a dish.
a few years, he felt it was time for
change. “I didn’t want to reinvent the PIXEL STOP Craft
wheel,” he says, “just jack up the tires.” beers + craft cocktails +
As a result, Sarsá is offering nine video games equals this
winner of a bar where
exciting new dishes on the menu. you can cash in your
While still strongly Negrense, the new extra life with another
dishes also reflect Chef JP’s many round of cocktails. The
experiences, including travel overseas mixologist is also behind
some of the cocktails
and his surfing lifestyle. Sinigang na crafted at ABV, so he’s
Bangus Belly is soured with batwan, the real deal. It’s the
the bangus pre-grilled for texture, and perfect place to unwind
served with guinamos. Liempo Pork before heading home.
Adobo (an instant crowd favorite that GOATCHA It looks like
goat meat will be the
he says was inspired by a staff meal at
next trendy ingredient,
a resto he was working at in Australia) and Goatcha serves
has flaked chicken adobo and eggs it up in fun ways like COOL JUANS
Kilawin, Mutton Curry Chef Wado Siman
two-ways: wok-fried and soft-boiled.
or Cabrito Caldereta. serves up nitro
A trip to Bicol inspired the Squid sorbetes in cool
Goatcha only uses fresh,
Pinangat and Negrense Sizzling Beef native goat meat and ˊDYRUV OLNH .ZDWUR
Rendang. Not afraid to experiment, strongly promotes the Kanto (gin pomelo)
farm-to-table approach. and On Mayon
Chef JP comes up with fun surprises
(Davao cacao
like Grilled Squid with Kangkong Pesto and sili). Made
and, for dessert, Kalabasa Chocolate by hand, each
Balls with Pandan Cream Sauce. Our serving is velvety,
creamy and fun!
verdict: namit guid! — Troy Barrios

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 21


CHEF’S PLAYGROUND
TOYO
Photos courtesy of JAY IGNACIO

EATERY

I
t’s all in the name. Toyo, or
soy sauce, a deceptively KARRIVIN
simple everyday condiment PLAZA, 2316
made up of the most basic CHINO ROCES
EXTENSION,
ingredients using a great deal MAKATI,
of technique and knowledge. (0917) 720-
8630
And Eatery, just a place to
eat with no fuss or frills. This
is Chef Jordy Navarra’s new EACH COURSE TELLS A STORY
(Clockwise from left): Soup
playground where he has
and salad: Kalabasa Soup with
created one of the most outstanding, but for brevity soy, topped with dried tuna Kamote and Uni, and Garden
exciting progressive tasting we will only wax lyrical roe, chicharon and a free- Vegetables; Grilled bangus on a
menus in Manila. This is not over a few. Three-cut Pork range egg yolk. Chef Jordy bed of spinach; Cassava Cake
home-style Pinoy cooking, Barbecue, with each cut even resurrects a cult favorite
but boasts amplified flavors, taken from a different part from his old restaurant, Black charcoal oven, torched to get
careful finishing touches and of the pig, is skewered and Sheep—Garden Vegetables is a fine crust, and is pleasingly
is, undeniably, a deliciously brined, brushed with a pork an iconic salad that uses all 18 gooey within. The delightful
cerebral experience. broth glaze that takes ten veggies mentioned in the folk Dulce de Leche Bonbons are
Go for either the tasting hours to make and served song Bahay Kubo. filled with caramel and patis.
or set menu (you can always with coco-cider vinegar. It We should mention that Begin and end your meal with
add a few dishes from the à comes with a side of Silog dessert is exceptional, too. a cocktail, and everything is
la carte menu). Everything is Rice: sticky rice infused with Cassava cake is baked in a perfect. —T. B.

210˚ KITCHEN + DRINKERY

F
rench food aficionados and unctuous, cooked at
may already be familiar 48°C, and served in a glass
with French chef with bacon and caramelized
William Mahi’s cooking, from onions. The Octopus, a must-
his previous stint at a hotel have, is marinated with
fine dining restaurant. Well, homemade ras-el-
G/F
he recently set out on his hanout (a North ICON
own, together with his wife African spice PLAZA, 25TH
STREET CORNER
Heather, for an altogether blend), grilled 6TH AVENUE,
more refreshing take on over charcoal BONIFACIO GLOBAL
French food, without the and served with CITY, (0995) 015-
2192, WWW.
fussiness of haute cuisine. The cumin sauce 210DEGREES.
PH MODERN FRENCH (Clockwise
result is an engaging menu of and pimientos
from top): Chef William Mahi; North
classic French favorites done del piquillo mayo. African-inspired grilled octopus;
the right way—steak tartare, If you’re dining as a best way to experience Chef Salmon marinated for 36 hours
onion soup, quiche Lorraine, group, make sure to order the William’s range of flavors is to
roast duck breast, warm tarte garlic-intensive whole roast go for the five-course tasting portions, and the flavors are
tatin, crème brulée and more. chicken (also available in half menu, with two choices always spot on—you won’t get
But he also infuses his menu and quarter sizes), served per course, offering the a better priced, more satisfying
with more modern dishes like with aioli, baby potatoes and “greatest hits” from the menu. menu around.
his signature The Egg, creamy green salad. But perhaps the It’s affordable, with generous — A. M. O.

VIVA ESPAÑA TOMATITO


name, tomatito, means “little
tomato” in Spanish, and is
also a reference to colorful
MANILA flamenco guitarist José
Fernandez Torres (go figure).

T
he newest restaurant The menu was created
concept from the by Chef Willy Trullas Moreno
boys who have given who is famous for his
us Rambla, Las Flores and restaurants El Willy, Elefante,
La Lola Churreria, is Fofo, La Paloma and El
Tomatito Manila. G/F Ocho, which are all
This time, it’s a BGC based in Shanghai
CORPORATE
fun, modern, CENTER, 11TH and Hong Kong.
flamboyant AVENUE CORNER The Asian influence
30TH STREET,
take on Spanish BONIFACIO can occasionally be
cuisine. The GLOBAL CITY felt, and since the
VIEW FROM THE STREET Tomatito Manila is the place to be

22 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


A FL AMENCO OF FL AVORS )URPOHIW 6DOPRQ717$WXQFRQ*D]SDFKR\2OLYDV7LUDGLWRVGH3HVFDGR%ODQFR0DULQDWHGZKLWHERTXHURQHV

executive chef is Mexican, the Salmon TNT, a signature Peruvian marinade which gazpacho is modernized
Latin American flavors make standout dish from the El you should spoon from the in Atún con Gazpacho y
it to the menu too. “We don’t Willy menu in Shanghai, is bottom up to get the full Olivas, topped with strips
take ourselves too seriously,” balik-smoked salmon with juicy flavors. There is, of of semi-cooked tuna loin.
says co-owner Sergi Rostoll. honey and truffle, ending in course, Paella Valenciana, It’s so much fun dining and
Dishes are served tapas an explosive dash of heat! a more rustic, dry version drinking at Tomatito Manila
style, each one bursting Tiraditos de Pescado Blanco with chicken, rosemary and that one visit will turn you
with surprising flavor. Like is tanguigue in a citrusy snow beans. And the popular into a regular. —T. B.

BAR
PINTXOS

S
panish tapas
aficionados have long
been making the
trek to this not-so-secret
neighborhood joint in
Alabang for out-of-
this-world tapas G/F
and pintxos FAIRWAYS
(Basque bar TOWER, A TOUR OF SPAIN (Clockwise from
top): Old world interiors; Juan Carlos de
snacks) 5TH AVENUE Terry plating a dish; Suspiros de Atun
expertly CORNER
prepared by MCKINLEY ROAD,
Miguel Vecin. BONIFACIO
Thankfully, he
GLOBAL CITY,
(02) 810-1307
and his partners
recently opened
a more accessible
ESTANCIA
AT CAPITOL
branch in BGC, with a small COMMONS,
plates menu that’s just as MERALCO AVENUE
enticing. Start with nibbles CORNER SHAW
of marinated olives, pan
con tomate, chistorra frito,
CAFÉ BOULEVARD,
PASIG CITY, (02)
jamon serrano or iberico, MADRID 470-1675
manchego. Then proceed to

T
the classics—crispy chopito his more modern
frito or baby squid, gambas version of Juan Carlos tuna belly escabeche on
al ajillo, perhaps a paella, de Terry’s flagship roasted piquillo peppers,
croquetas, and any number Terry’s Bistro offers a topped with savory anchovy
of traditional pintxos like more affordable taste of mayonnaise. Another unique
escalivada or gildas. But gastronomic specialities dish is Colgados de Toledo or
make sure to leave room for from all over the 17 regions of hanging tapas. A fun way to
a selection of Vecin’s more Spain, from Galicia to Madrid share, Spanish cheese, pork
TERRIFIC TAPAS (From
elaborate pintxos creations top): Jamon serrano platter; to Catalonia. The warm and beef tapas and other
where he experiments with all Chistorra frito; Salmon with interiors of this restaurant meats are threaded through
sorts of flavor combos on top WUXIˊHKRQH\DQGFDYLDU beckon, featuring a selection a metal skewer, which is
of toast: Queso de Cabra with of the finest Spanish wines then hung from a metal rod,
goat cheese, beans, chorizo, to pair these small bites with and cheeses like manchego, so that it swings from side
bacon; seared foie gras, apple a glass of Spanish wine, a tetilla and cabrales. With to side like a pendulum. A
compote, PX reduction; Mar bottle of craft beer, or a gin its cold appetizers, warm trademark Terry’s dish, Piggy
Y Montanya with uni, lardo, cocktail or two from the bar. tapas and pinchos, the menu High (housemade chorizo
lomo iberico; Salmon with One thing’s for sure, there’s instantly reminds one of La flambéed in sherry brandy
goat cheese, truffle honey nothing small about the small Rambla in Barcelona and its in a cute pig-shaped vessel)
and a dollop of caviar; and bites and beverages at Bar salty sea breeze. Suspiros is done Colgados de Toledo
the list goes on. Don’t forget Pintxos. — A. M. O. de Atún from Cantabria is style, hanging over a shallow

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 23


DINING OUT

bowl of Rioja lentil stew. We also loved the Chistorritos de Pamplona from
Navarra, grilled chistorra and cherry tomatoes served with Huevos Rotos, and
thinly sliced potatoes soaked in the lovely fattiness of jamon iberico, inspired by
Casa Lucio restaurant in Madrid. There’s also the utterly decadent Cochi-Frito,
small chunks of cochinillo confit marinated in garlic, sherry vinegar and fresh
herbs. And whatever the Paella of the Week is, it’s guaranteed to be delicious,
with fluffy Valencian rice cooked in flavorful housemade stock, with mushrooms,
shrimps, chicken and chorizo. Whenever we feel nostalgic about Spain, we’ll come
back to this clean, well-lighted place, and partake of tapas and wine with our
friends. — G. M. Paella de Mariscos

american comfort food


THE SMOKING JOINT

I
n the cutthroat restaurant
industry, a great first
act can be really hard
to follow. But when The
Smoking Joint opened its
JUST REALLY GOOD
second branch in Makati FOOD A sampling
(the first is in Sucat), the GREEN of side dishes (left)
general consensus was that SUN, and the ribs fresh
CHINO ROCES off the grill (top)
it’s even better than ever.
EXTENSION,
The secret to its success MAKATI, (02)
lies in their passion for beef to 423-5514 looks like bibingka
treating meat right: taking achieve and is dotted with
the time, patience and a crunchy- bits of jalapeño. For
technique to produce such to bite into. Roast chicken tender dessert is Calamansi Cream
showstoppers as beef comes in wings, quarters experience. This comes Pie with its blend of biting
brisket that’s almost buttery and halves with sidings with flat pandesal. We acid, sugar and cream on
in its softness, and packed of corn, coleslaw and love the carbs—Jalapeño a graham cracker crust.
with so much flavor that chimichurri. Poppers filled with rice and And there are signature
one scarcely notices the New items added to the coated with crisp crumbs, cocktails, too. Happy hour
side dishes. The full rack of menu include Corned Beef the glorious seasoned rice officially starts at 4 PM, but
ribs is so deftly handled that Sisig, in which deep-fried that’s such a delightful oily really, it’s whatever time you
it is tender without falling pork face is combined with combination of salty-sweet, arrive at The Smoking Joint.
apart, and so satisfactory homemade smoked corned and the corned bread that — T.B.

PROVIDORE

I
n the flurry to ride on and
capitalize on food trends,
or to try to be the Next
Big Thing, some chefs can
admittedly sometimes
forget that at the end G/F
SM AURA
of the day, people just PREMIER,
yearn to eat delicious BONIFACIO
food that makes them GLOBAL DELI AND BAKERY TREATS (From left): The popular Providore Salad;
CITY, (02) an embarrassment of delicious pastries, from cookies to breads to cakes
feel happy. One of 802-9448
the Raintree Group’s
most recent additions to of curated gourmet Dinner (deliciously crisp Cake (so named because
its roster of restaurants is kitchen provisions too. and moist fried chicken to it has leche flan on top
Providore in SM Aura, which Come for the Providore be eaten with buttery corn, and chocolate cake on
does exactly that—it’s a Salad, with its harmonious crunchy French beans, the bottom) and Ube Tres
return to down home, feel medley of avocado, crispy creamy mashed potatoes, Leches Cake. If your soul
good food. Tita-hits food, bacon, walnuts, cranberries, smoked bacon and cheddar needs comforting after
if you will. But these are and blue cheese, served buttermilk biscuits). For a long, hard day at the
for your cool titas, as it’s with buttermilk ranch dessert, there’s a wide office, or you simply want
not just a bistro, but also dressing. And whatever you selection of cakes and to eat good food without
has a coffee bar, patisserie, do, don’t miss the famous pastries such as Raintree’s pretensions, Providore is the
and small ‘grocery store’ Winner Winner Chicken iconic Impossible Bundt place for you. — G. M.

24 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Pinoy BBQ at its best
What could be more Pinoy than
eating inihaw or grilled food in
the summer? We’ll gladly have
grilled liempo, chicken inasal
and grilled vegetables with lots
and lots of rice. Don’t forget to
serve with atchara. For more
pickled vegetable recipes, turn
to page 98.

26 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Simple Pleasures
of the

Chef Jessie Sincioco reminisces about


her childhood in Bulacan, the art
of inihaw and how it brings out the
best in many fresh ingredients
By YVETTE TAN
Recipes by JESSIE SINCIOCO of CHEF JESSIE GRILL
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO

N
Styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ

othing says ‘party’ more than food on the grill. The Filipino ihaw—a
lechon roasting on the spit or some sort of chicken, vegetable or
fatty meat cooking over smoldering coals—means something special
is happening. It could be as simple as a trip to the beach in the
summer, or as elaborate as a fiesta to honor a patron saint. It could
also mean a weekend dinner at home where family and friends bond over a
shared meal.
Chef Jessie Sincioco, who recently opened Chef Jessie Grill in The
Grove by Rockwell, waxes poetic about one of her favorite methods of
cooking. “I’ve always liked grilled food, because growing up in Bulacan,
whenever we would go on picnics, my folks would set up charcoal or
sometimes wood and just cook everything there,” she says. “Every Easter
Sunday, my lola would gather all of us and we would go to the river and
they’d grill there. And sometimes, our relatives would have corn growing
so we’d just pluck the corn and roast them, too.” Most Pinoys share the
fondness ingrained in these memories, if not the specifics of it.
According to Tatung Sarthou’s Philippine Cookery: From Heart To
Platter, inihaw is a more expansive definition than the familiar pork
barbecue on skewers. Chef Tatung explains that Filipino barbecue differs
from its American counterpart because the latter involves huge cuts of
meat “slow-roasted until tender.” Other names for Filipino-style barbecue
include sinugba, tinuhog and tindang. But whatever name you call it by, you
can be sure that it’s delicious..

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 27


Grilled Seafood Medley
“Grilling seafood is so simple—just put salt and
pepper. You don’t have to do much to it as long
DVWKHˉVKRUVKULPSLVYHU\FOHDQDQGIUHVK DQG
preferably alive just before you cook it),” Chef
Jessie shares. She also says that Filipinos love
JULOOHGVHDIRRGEHFDXVHZHHQMR\WKHUHDOˊDYRU
of what we’re cooking: rather than seasoning with
so many herbs and spices that can sometimes
overpower the seafood, we really want to taste
WKHLQQDWHVZHHWQHVVRIWKHˉVKWKHumami of the
shrimp, the very taste of the sea in the clams.

28 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Chicken Inasal
Firmly entrenched
in Negrense cuisine,
every family in
Bacolod seems
to have their own
secret chicken inasal
marinade. Chef Jessie
advises marinating
the chicken for at
least 12 hours or
overnight. She pairs
her grilled chicken
with corn on the cob.
Chef Jessie shares
her secret to grilling
corn: “What we do is
ZHERLOLWˉUVWXQWLO
it’s 90% cooked. We
just want to get the
FKDUJULOOHGˊDYRUVR
we put it on the grill
for the last 10% of
cooking.” This ensures
that the corn is fully
cooked and has those
beautiful grill marks,
while still staying
nice and moist.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 29


Grilled Mediterranean Vegetable Salad
This dish uses Mediterranean vegetables like zucchini,
bell peppers, broccoli, onions and asparagus, though
local produce like eggplant, okra, squash, corn and
sweet potato also do well on the grill. When the
vegetables become soft and nicely charred, they’re
already fully cooked. To get those beautiful grill marks
RQWKHYHJHWDEOHV RUDQ\NLQGRIPHDW PDNHVXUH
that the charcoal is burning at full blast and the grill is
very hot, so as soon as you put down whatever you are
cooking, you can get the grill marks right away.

30 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Kesong Puti
Tomato Salad
Chef Jessie uses thickly
sliced kesong puti from
Bulacan instead of the
usual buffalo mozzarella
for this refreshing salad.
But it was Chef Jessie
herself who formulated the
recipe for the kesong puti,
which is why it has just the
right level of saltinesss.
She describes how simple
it is to put together the
salad: “We just put the
slices of cheese on the
sizzling plate. We grill it
together with tomato slices
and just sprinkle a little
sea salt on the tomatoes,
then put inside the
charcoal oven, and that’s
it. When it comes out, and
it’s beautifully melted,
we just drizzle it with a
vinaigrette.” Although
served as an appetizer,
Chef Jessie says that her
customers sometimes like
to eat this with garlic rice.

Grilling in the City


Chef Jessie Grill is Chef Jessie Sincioco’s take on the
modern bahay kubo, serving freshly grilled delights in the
relaxing enclave that is The Grove by Rockwell in bustling
Pasig City. Her brother, Chef Reo Sincioco, is her sous chef,
and is in charge of day to day operations. They both draw
from their childhood in Bulacan, where grilled food was
prepared for special occasions.. “We wanted to make the
restaurant look as comfortable and homey as possible, so
WKDWZKHQSHRSOHDUHHDWLQJWKH\ ZLOOWKLQNWKH\ DUHDW
home,” Chef Jessie says. Aside from serving Filipino grilled
IDYRULWHVWKHPHQXDOVRRIIHUVFRQWLQHQWDOGLVKHVOLNH86
black Angus steak, sea bass and charcoal-baked clams
DQGPXVVHOVWKHLUKDOIVKHOOVˉOOHGZLWKEXWWHU\KHUE\
sauce. It’s an answer to every Filipino’s deep desire for
inihaw, the simplest yet most festive form of cooking.

Grove Retail Row, The Grove by Rockwell, E. Rodriguez Jr.


Avenue (C5), Pasig City, (02) 535-1061, 534-9073, (0917) 833-
0797, www.chefjessie.com

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 31


Inihaw na Liempo
Chef Jessie serves liempo two ways: “I like liempo that is just marinated in garlic and
VDOWDQGYLQHJDU7KHYLQHJDUPDNHVLWPRUHWHQGHUDQGWKHJDUOLFJLYHVLWPRUHˊDYRU
And then in the usual Pinoy way, it’s eaten with a sawsawan of soy sauce, calamansi and
sliced siling labuyo,” she says. One can also marinate it in soy sauce with a little sugar,
garlic and calamansi8SRQJULOOLQJWKHVXJDUZLOOFDUDPHOL]HWKHSRUNWKXVJLYLQJLW
that char-grilled look. Keep in mind that it’s important not to overcook pork, otherwise it
will become tough and dry. Of course, the grilling time depends on the cut of meat: the
thicker the cut of meat, the longer it will take to cook.

32 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Grilled Seafood Medley 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon 1. Mix all the vegetables in Inihaw na Liempo
Serves 4 patis a bowl. Season with pesto, Serves 4
2 teaspoons freshly crushed salt and pepper. Drizzle with
200 grams live Manila clams black pepper olive oil. 1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons
450 grams live red snapper, 3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon 2. In a hot grill, grill sliced soy sauce
cleaned annatto oil, divided vegetables until they soften 2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 kilos tiger prawns, 1.2 kilos whole chicken, and become nicely charred. 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon
cleaned, antennae cleaned and cut into 3. Line a salad bowl with calamansi juice
and outer legs removed, quarters salad greens. Arrange grilled 2 teaspoons whole black
EXWWHUˊLHG vegetables on top. Drizzle peppercorns
salt and pepper, to taste 1. In a ceramic or stainless more olive oil right before 1 teaspoon brown sugar
5 calamansi, cut in half container, combine garlic, serving. 1/2 kilo pork belly, sliced
ginger, lemongrass, vinegar,
1. Boil Manila clams until soy sauce, brown sugar, Kesong Puti 1. Combine soy sauce, garlic,
they open. Remove half calamansi juice, patis, black Tomato Salad calamansi juice, peppercorns
empty shell, and set aside pepper and 2 teaspoons of Serves 4 and brown sugar.
the other half with the meat. the annatto oil. 2. Add pork slices and
2. Clean red snapper by 2. Add chicken pieces and 4 whole ripe salad tomatoes, marinate for at least 2 hours
removing the scales, gills marinate overnight in the cut into quarters before grilling.
and innards. Rub inside and refrigerator. lengthwise 3. Grill marinated pork slices
RXWVLGH SDUWV RI WKH ˉVK ZLWK 3. Remove chicken pieces 1 pack kesong puti, sliced over hot charcoals or in a
rock salt. Rinse thoroughly. from the marinade. Grill over 2 tablespoons olive oil hot grill pan until completely
3. 6HDVRQ WKH FODPV ˉVK DQG hot charcoals or in a hot grill 2 cups assorted salad cooked.
prawns with salt and pepper pan while basting with the greens like lolla rosa and 4. Cut grilled liempo into
to taste. remaining annatto oil until romaine lettuce serving pieces. Serve with
4. Drizzle with calamansi chicken is completely cooked. salt and pepper, to taste steamed rice and a chili-
juice right before grilling. 4. Serve with garlic rice and YLQHJDUGLS UHFLSHDERYH 
5. Grill prawns, clams and FKLOLVR\ VDXFHGLS UHFLSH 1. On a hot plate, arrange
ˉVK VHSDUDWHO\ RYHU KRW below). sliced tomatoes and kesong
charcoals or in a hot grill pan puti slices alternately in a
until cooked. CHILI -SOY SAUCE DIP: circle. Drizzle with olive oil.
6. Serve with steamed rice 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2. Place hot plate on a hot
DQG FKLOLYLQHJDUGLS UHFLSH 3 siling labuyo grill, and grill until tomatoes
below). 1 calamansi are halfway cooked and
cheese starts melting.
CHILI -V IN EG A R DIP: Combine all the ingredients. 3. Place the hot plate in
2 tablespoons coconut Set aside. a 375°F oven for 10 to 15
vinegar minutes until the tomatoes
5 cloves garlic, minced Grilled Mediterranean soften and the kesong puti
2 siling labuyo (bird’s eye Vegetable Salad melts further.
chili) Serves 4 4. Season with salt and
patis ˉVK VDXFH  WR WDVWH pepper before serving.
freshly crushed black 1 small zucchini, cut into 5. Toss assorted salad greens
pepper, to taste bite-size pieces with pesto vinaigrette
1 Japanese eggplant, cut GUHVVLQJ UHFLSH EHORZ 
Combine all the ingredients. into bite-size pieces Place on top of tomatoes and
Set aside. 1 small red bell pepper, cheese.
cut into bit-size pieces
Chicken Inasal 1 small green bell pepper, PE S TO V IN AIG RE T TE
Serves 6 cut into bite-size pieces DRESSING:
1 small broccoli, cut into 5 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons garlic, VHSDUDWH ˊRUHWV  1 1/2 tablespoons vinegar
minced 1 white onion, 1 1/2 tablespoons prepared
1/4 cup chopped ginger peeled and cut into pesto
200 grams lemongrass, quarters salt and pepper, to taste
white stalks only, sliced 1 bunch asparagus,
1 1/2 tablespoon vinegar trimmed and cut into Mix all the ingredients in a
2 tablespoons soy sauce 1-inch pieces bowl. Set aside.
1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon 1/4 cup prepared pesto
brown sugar salt and pepper, to taste
1 1/2 tablespoons calamansi 1 1/2 tablespoon olive oil
juice salad greens

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 33


EVERYDAY DINNERS

Lomo Lomo
Lomo is the Spanish word for pork tenderloin. According to Chef Chris,
the traditional lomo lomo is “a very Ilocano soup dish,” with rendered pork
meat, fat and occasionally innards like liver. In Ilocos, it’s usually served
for breakfast. Authentic lomo lomo, he says, is cooked with pig’s brains,
WR JLYH LW LWV GLVWLQFWO\ H[RWLF ˊDYRU 1RW WR ZRUU\ȞWKLV /RPR /RPR LV D
PRGLˉHG UHFLSH WKDW VLPSO\ XVHV SRUN IDW PHDW DQG VWRFN ZLWK JLQJHU DQG
is served with sunny side-up eggs, chopped chives and toasted bread.

34 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


specials
Heartwarming Pinoy soups straight from the probinsya
By GINNY MATA
Recipes by CHRIS DE JESUS
Styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SEVILLA
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO

W
hat could be more comforting than a bowl of hot In these pages, Chef Chris generously shares some of those
soup? On rainy days, on sweltering afternoons, regional soup recipes with us, as well as some key guiding
or anytime of the day, we Filipinos love our principles when making sabaw: (1) the flavor of the soup
sabaw. Rich and redolent with fat, cartilage comes from fat and protein, so be sure to choose meat with the
and bones from meat, then made hearty and bones and cartilage intact; (2) cook over low to medium heat
nutritious with plenty of vegetables, sabaw is an essential slowly, never allowing it to come to a rolling boil, as this will
part of our daily meals. Just ask Chef Chris de Jesus, who make the soup cloudy and taste burnt; and (3) taste the soup
contributed these soup recipes from Ilocos, Isabela and throughout the cooking process, to be able to ascertain if it
Bicol that he also serves in his popular Filipino restaurant needs less or more seasoning.
Provenciano: “Sabaw is not a first course for us—we consider
them as main entrées,” he says, “because we always eat rice
with our everyday meals, these sabaw dishes become all-in-
one ulam.”
Born in Leyte, but having spent his early childhood years
in his mother’s hometown of Vigan, Ilocos Sur, Chef Chris
remembers how his grandmother would always feed him and
his family sabaw. He explains, “For lunch or dinner, as kids,
we would always have batchochay (soup with pork, misua
and petchay), or chicken with sotanghon with thin slices of
ampalaya, or miki ng Vigan. As teenagers, as our palates
became more complex, we were introduced to more “adult”
soups like pinapaitan (with goat innards and bile), sinaglao
(like pinapaitan, but made with beef innards) and lomo lomo
soup.”

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


EVERYDAY DINNERS

Sinampalukang Kambing
In the northern provinces, goat meat is usually eaten
during cold weather, as it’s known to be “pampainit ng
katawan,” or meat that literally warms the body, and
is thus commonly considered to be an aphrodisiac.
According to Chef Chris, the best source of goat meat
in Metro Manila is at Farmer’s Market in Cubao. When
EX\LQJ JRDW PHDW PDNH VXUH WKDW WKH ˊHVK ORRNV IUHVK
and the smell shouldn’t be overly gamey or smelling
of urine. Goat meat requires long, slow cooking over
low heat in order to soften its tough meat. You can
also make this dish as sour and/or as spicy as you
like by adding fresh sampalok or siling mahaba.

36 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Guinataang Tinola
While the tinola we know usually has a clear broth,
this Bicolano version contains coconut milk. This
makes it a much creamier soup, which then balances
out the spiciness of the siling mahaba. Once you’ve
added the coconut milk, be sure to stir the soup
constantly to keep the milk from burning and sticking
to the bottom of the pot. It’s best to use a native
chicken, including its neck and back bones, for its
LQKHUHQWO\ ULFK ˊDYRU DQG FRPSOH[LW\ 7KLV LV RQH RI
our own personal favorites at Provenciano too!

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 37


EVERYDAY DINNERS

Batchochay
An heirloom recipe that Chef Chris inherited from
his grandmother, Batchochay is a Tagalog dish that
usually consists of pork meat, liver and blood with
misua and pechay. You can opt not to incorporate the
blood chunks, but if you choose to do so, be sure to
use clean and fresh pig’s blood. For a heftier dish, go
ahead and double the amount of misua stated in the
recipe to make it a truly all-in-one ulam. “It’s one of
our best-selling dishes at Provenciano,” he shares.

38 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Sopas Mais ng Isabela
For this corn soup, Chef Chris says, “The combination
of the yellow corn and white corn balances out the
sweetness of the dish, with the thickness of the soup
coming from the starchiness of the white corn.” The
addition of sili leaves or malunggay, as well as squash
blossoms, lends a nuanced delicacy to the soup as
well. Consider adding fresh shrimp heads to amp up
WKH ˊDYRU LI \RX OLNH $OZD\V PDNH VXUH WKH FRUQ LV IXOO\
cooked to keep the texture of the soup from turning
grainy. Stir constantly over low heat as well, to keep
the corn from sticking to the bottom of the pot.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 39


EVERYDAY DINNERS

Lomo Lomo 1/2 cup diced tomatoes 1/2 cup sili leaves blood to let it coagulate
Serves 4 3/4 kilo goat meat, chopped 2 siling mahaba properly in the mixture.
1 stalk lemongrass, crushed Cook for another 10
100 grams pork empelya and sliced 1. Clean and chop the native minutes.
(fat), sliced 3 tablespoons patis chicken. If using an itlogan, 4. Add misua and black
1/2 kilo pork kasim with fat 1/2 teaspoon ground black remove eggs from chicken. pepper. Cook for 5 minutes.
and skin, thinly sliced pepper 2. In a casserole or pot, 5. Uncover the pot, then add
2 tablespoons oil from 1 cup sliced labanos (radish) sauté onion, ginger, garlic pechay and cook for another
rendered pork 1 cup sliced sitaw (long and chopped chicken for 5 minutes. Serve.
1/4 cup diced onions beans) about 15 minutes.
1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 siling mahaba (green 3. Add patis and water. Bring Sopas Mais ng Isabela
1 1/2 tablespoons sliced ˉQJHU FKLOL to boil for 1 hour 30 minutes Serves 4 to 6
ginger 1/4 cup sampalok blossoms over low to medium heat
3 tablespoons patis 1 1/2 cups trimmed until the chicken is tender. 2 yellow or sweet corn cobs
ˉVK VDXFH kangkong 4. Add lemongrass and 2 lagkitan cobs (white corn)
4 cups pork stock itlogan and boil for another 150 grams medium-sized
1/2 teaspoon ground 1. In a pot, boil sampalok 15 minutes. shrimps
black pepper fruit with water until it 5. Add coconut milk, papaya 1 1/2 tablespoons oil
4 whole eggs softens. Drain and purée and ground black pepper. 1/4 cup chopped onions
3 tablespoons chopped XVLQJ D ˉQH VWUDLQHU 6HW Simmer for another 15 1 tablespoon minced garlic
chives aside. minutes. 200 grams pork liempo
8 biscocho bread or toasted 2. In another pot, bring 6. Add sili leaves and green 2 tablespoons patis, or to
sugar-glazed pandesal hugas bigas, ginger, onion chili just before serving. taste
and tomatoes to a boil over 4 cups shrimp broth
1. In a pot, place empelya or high heat. CHEF’S NOTE: An 1/4 teaspoon ground black
pork fat with just enough 3. Add goat meat, and also “itlogan” chicken refers to pepper
a chicken that is pregnant,
water to partially cover bring to a boil. Turn heat 8 squash blossoms
and heavy with fertilized
the fat. Cover and cook down to a simmer. Remove eggs. If unavailable, simply 1/2 cup sili leaves
over medium heat. Wait scum and cook for 45 substitute with native
until pork fat has been minutes to an hour over low chicken. 1. Prepare and clean yellow
completely rendered. Add to medium heat or until goat and white corn cobs. Shred
pork kasim together with meat is tender. both kinds of corn from the
rendered pork fat and cook 4. Add sampalok purée and Batchochay cob and set aside.
until kasim turns golden lemongrass and boil for Serves 4 to 6 2. Prepare and clean shrimp.
brown. Set aside the another 15 minutes. Separate the heads from
rendered pork fat or oil and 5. Add patis, ground black 1 tablespoon oil the bodies of the shrimp.
meat. pepper, labanos and sitaw 2 tablespoons Combine shrimp heads and
2. In the same pot, sauté and cook for another 10 chopped onion water, and bring to a boil.
onion, garlic and ginger in minutes. 2 teaspoons chopped garlic 3. In a pot, sauté onions and
the rendered pork fat or oil, 6. $GG JUHHQ ˉQJHU FKLOL 1 1/2 tablespoons garlic. Add pork liempo and
and add kasim. Add patis and sampalok blossoms and chopped ginger patis and cook until pork is
pork stock. Cook for 20 to kangkong leaves. Cook for 5 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon slightly brown.
30 minutes until pork is very minutes. Do not cover the pot diced tomatoes 4. Add shredded yellow
tender. Season with ground while cooking the vegetables. 1/2 kilo pork liempo and white corn, then pour
black pepper. Serve while still hot. (belly), sliced in shrimp broth. Boil over
3. In a pan, cook eggs sunny 3 tablespoons patis low to medium heat for 45
side up. Set aside. Guinataang Tinola 4 cups pork stock minutes to an hour. Double
4. Serve soup in a bowl Serves 4 to 6 3/4 cup fresh pork blood check if the corn is already
topped with fried egg, 150 grams misua noodles cooked.
chopped chives and biscocho 1 kilo whole native chicken, 1/4 teaspoon ground 5. Add ground black pepper
or toasted pandesal on the preferably itlogan black pepper to taste and shrimps.
side. 1 1/2 tablespoons oil 150 grams pechay, chopped Cook for another 10 to 15
1/4 cup diced onions minutes.
Sinampalukang 2 tablespoons sliced ginger 1. Heat oil and sauté onion, 6. Add squash blossoms
Kambing 1 tablespoon minced garlic garlic, ginger and tomatoes and sili leaves just before
Serves 4 to 6 3 tablespoons patis about 10 minutes over serving.
6 cups water medium heat. Add pork
300 grams fresh sampalok 1 stalk lemongrass, crushed liempo and cook for about Provenciano Restaurant
fruit (tamarind) 1 1/4 cups gata (coconut 15 minutes. 110 Maginhawa Street,
4 cups hugas bigas (water milk) 2. Add patis and pork stock. Teacher’s Village, East
from rice washing) 1/4 kilo papaya maniba, Cover the pot and boil for 30 Diliman, Quezon City
1 1/2 tablespoons sliced semi ripe minutes over low to medium (02) 922-2736
ginger ground black pepper, to heat. FB: ProvencianoRestaurant
1/4 cup diced onions taste 3. Slowly stir in the pork

40 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


These fiery recipes will inspire
you to explore the many ways
to use chili in the kitchen
By SHARWIN L. TEE
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA

C
Styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ

hilies do more than just give heat to your dishes. They


bring in a whole new world of flavor that will wake up
your cooking, giving wonderful new nuance to tired old
recipes. To show you how easy it can be to incorporate
chilies into your everyday cooking, I’m sharing five
Tsinoy-inspired recipes that I tweaked using different types
of chili. Why Tsinoy? Because I’ve really been into Tsinoy
recipes this past year, and the deeper I dug into this part of
Filipino culture, the more I realized how rich it is. In every
culture where Chinese immigrants reside, there have always
been ingenious adaptations of classic Chinese dishes, maybe
borne out of creativity or even necessity. This is my homage
to that. I drew from classic Chinese and Tsinoy favorites and
added touches of Filipino culture and ingredients.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 41


COOK IT 5 WAYS
Lu Rou Fan
This Taiwanese classic has a Tsinoy version, which I like to
call Chinese adobo. I’m adding spiciness because I think
WKH GLVK FRXOG EH PRUH LQWHUHVWLQJ ZLWK DQRWKHU ˊDYRU
GLPHQVLRQ 8VH JUHHQ ˉQJHU FKLOL RU siling mahaba, which
goes well with Filipino dishes like Bicol express or pork
sinigang ,I \RX FDQȠW ˉQG JUHHQ ˉQJHU FKLOLHV XVH D VPDOOHU
amount of siling labuyo or even jalapeños. Instead of pork,
try this recipe with chicken, beef or even tofu!

42 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


“Liang Ban Style Chicken” Salad
When I think of spicy Chinese food, Szechuan
cooking comes immediately to mind.
Unfortunately, we don’t have any Tsinoy
Szechuan recipes because most of the Chinese
immigrants to the Philippines came from the
Fujian province. But because I love cold spicy
chicken, I just had to make my own version.
Instead of the usual chili oil, I’m using a chili
vinegar like pinakurat or Pinoy spiced vinegar for
the source of heat. You can also use a regular
vinegar with Chinese chili garlic oil or sauce.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 43


COOK IT 5 WAYS

Efu Noodles with Chili Garlic Oil


I’m very familiar with efu noodles because my sister-in-
law is allergic to seafood so these are the only noodles
she can eat in Chinese restaurants. I love the simplicity
RI WKHVH QRRGOHV PDGH ˊDYRUIXO ZLWK PXVKURRPV EXW
I also think adding a little heat gives it great balance. I
XVHG GULHG FKLOL ˊDNHV DV WKH\ DUH WKH EHVW ZKHQ PDNLQJ
chili oils. In a pinch, you can even use dried labuyo or even
cayenne pepper to make the chili garlic oil. Experiment
with a number of different vegetables like Napa cabbage,
zucchini, squash or even green beans. The key is to give
the dish some crunch and sweetness from the vegetables.

44 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Honey XO Wings
I love chicken wings! Lately, Asian-style wings have
EHFRPH SRSXODU EHFDXVH RI WKHLU EDODQFHG ˊDYRU
Instead of a simple soy honey glaze, I wanted wings
that are spicier and loaded with umami, hence the XO
sauce, which I use here with dried scallops and chili. The
combination makes a great source of umami and spice.
The ingredients are easily available in grocery stores, but
LI \RX FDQȠW ˉQG WKHP D VLPSOH PL[ RI FKRSSHG FKLOLHV DQG
GULHG VFDOORSV ZLOO PLPLF WKH ˊDYRU <RX GRQȠW KDYH WR EH
limited to chicken wings either—feel free to cook this with
IULHGˉVKRUSRUN

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 45


COOK IT 5 WAYS

Spicy Taro Sago


Warm taro sago is a traditional Tsinoy dessert that you
can get during a Chinese banquet, and it gives a meal a
JUHDW ZDUP ˉQLVK , WKLQN DGGLQJ D OLWWOH KHDW FDQ HQKDQFH
the warming effect. I used labuyo, since it works really
well with desserts, and especially with coconut milk. You
can use other root crops like ube or sweet potatoes in
WKLV GLVK )RU D GLIIHUHQW KHDW SURˉOH WU\ FD\HQQH SHSSHU
instead of labuyo. And you can add nata de coco as well.

46 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Lu Rou Fan 1/4 kilo chicken breast or 3. Add the noodles and stir. Spicy Taro Sago
(Braised Pork with Rice) WKLJK ˉOOHW 4. Serve noodles with chili Serves 4
Serves 4 4 cups red and green leafy ˊDNHV VSULQNOHG RQ WRS
lettuce, washed and torn 3/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon cooking oil into serving pieces HOMEMADE CHILI 1 siling labuyo (bird’s eye
1/2 kilo pork liempo (belly), 1/2 cup cilantro leaves GARLIC OIL chili), chopped
cut into small pieces 1 carrot, cut into thin (Makes about 1 cup): 2 cups water
salt and pepper, to taste ribbons with a peeler 1 cup vegetable oil 400 grams taro, peeled and
1 small onion, minced 1/4 cup minced garlic cut into bite-sized pieces
2 cloves garlic, minced 1. To make the sauce, 1/4 cup chopped siling 2 cups coconut milk
2 siling mahaba (green combine vinegar, sugar, labuyo or 1/2 cup chili 2 cups sago pearls, cooked
ˉQJHU FKLOLHV  VOLFHG soy sauce, sesame seeds, ˊDNHV 1/2 cup sweetened jackfruit,
thinly at a diagonal vegetable and sesame oil in shredded
1 tablespoon minced ginger a glass or plastic bowl. Set 1. Cook oil, garlic and siling 1/2 cup desiccated coconut
 WHDVSRRQV ˉYHVSLFH aside. labuyo RU FKLOL ˊDNHV RYHU sea salt, to taste
powder 2. In a pot, combine ginger, low heat until garlic turns
1 star anise leek and water. Season with slightly brown. 1. In a pot, combine sugar,
1 tablespoon brown sugar salt and pepper. Bring to a 2. Remove from heat, cool, labuyo and water and bring
1/4 cup Shaoxing wine boil. then strain. to a boil.
2 cups water 3. Gently poach chicken in 3. Keep the chili garlic oil in 2. Once boiling, add the taro
3 tablespoons soy sauce the water until fully cooked, a bottle. Make sure to use and cook until tender, about
4 cups cooked rice about 10 minutes. within ten days. 7 to 10 minutes.
4 hard-boiled eggs, sliced, 4. Slice chicken into 1/2- 3. Add coconut milk, sago
for garnish inch strips. Place the chicken Honey XO Wings and jackfruit. Mix well over
cilantro leaves, for garnish strips in the sauce. Let Serves 4 low heat.
marinate in the refrigerator 4. Transfer mixture to
1. In a pot with oil, brown for at least 1 hour or until 2 tablespoons XO Sauce individual bowls. Top with
the pork seasoned with salt chicken is cold. 1/2 cup honey desiccated coconut and
and pepper. 5. In a serving bowl, arrange 1/4 cup water a touch of sea salt. Serve
2. Add onion, garlic, chilies lettuce, cilantro, carrot and salt and pepper, to taste warm or cold.
and ginger. Sauté for 1 to 2 marinated chicken. Gently 8 chicken wings, cut into 2
minutes. toss with the sauce before pieces each
3. $GG ˉYHVSLFH SRZGHU serving.  FXS DOOSXUSRVH ˊRXU
star anise and brown sugar  WDEOHVSRRQV ˉYHVSLFH
and toast for 1 minute. Efu Noodles with Chili powder
4. Pour in Shaoxing wine Garlic Oil salt and pepper, to taste
and reduce for 1 minute. Serves 4 to 6 oil, for frying
Then pour in water and soy minced green onions, for
sauce. 1/4 cup chili garlic oil garnish
5. Simmer for 1 hour or until (recipe below)
pork is very tender. 1 small carrot, sliced thinly 1. In a pot, combine XO
6. Top braised pork on or julienned sauce, honey and water.
cooked rice. Garnish with 8 large shiitake mushrooms, Bring to a boil and reduce
hard-boiled egg slices and stems removed, sliced until it becomes a glaze,
cilantro leaves, if desired. thinly about 8 minutes. Season CHEF SHARWIN TEE
1/4 cup diced red bell with salt and pepper. is best known for his show,
Curiosity Got the Chef,
“Liang Ban pepper 2. 7RVV WKH ZLQJV LQ ˊRXU which airs on Lifestyle
Style Chicken” Salad 1 cup cabbage, sliced thinly ˉYHVSLFH SRZGHU VDOW DQG TV, where he gives
Serves 4 1/4 cup oyster sauce pepper. his own twist to Pinoy
1 cup water 3. Fry the wings in hot oil dishes. Chef Sharwin is
proud to celebrate his
1/4 cup spicy pinakurat 4 cups cooked Chinese egg for 7 to 9 minutes or until Tsinoy (Chinese Filipino)
vinegar noodles (pancit canton) fully cooked and crispy. Let heritage, as showcased in
1/4 cup sugar FKLOL ˊDNHV RSWLRQDO rest for 30 seconds to 1 these recipes. He is also
1/4 cup soy sauce minute. known for his personal
advocacies—he recently
Photography by JAM RAMOS

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, 1. In a wok or kawali, heat 4. Toss the wings in the
held a one-night pop-up
toasted chili garlic oil and stir-fry glaze. Sprinkle with dinner to support local
1/4 cup vegetable oil the carrots, mushrooms, red green onions and serve libraries.
2 teaspoons sesame oil bell pepper and cabbage for immediately.
2 thumb-sized knobs ginger, 1 minute. Curiosity Got the Chef airs
on Lifestyle TV every Sunday
sliced thinly 2. Pour in the oyster sauce at 9 PM, with replays on
1 large stalk leek, chopped and the water. Simmer for 3 Monday, 11 AM and 7 PM,
2 cups water to 4 minutes or until half the and Saturday at 2 PM, visit
salt and pepper, to taste liquid is reduced. lifestylenetwork.tv

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 47


SUSTAINABLE
SYNERGY
The biggest gastronomic event of the year,
Madrid Fusión Manila 2017 was all about
chefs, farmers and culinarians working
together towards a greener future
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA,
TROY BARRIOS and GINNY MATA

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 49


Inspired by this year’s theme “Towards
a Sustainable Gastronomic Planet,”
24 of the most respected chefs in the
world shared their most forward-
thinking ideas about how to save
our planet, one dish at a time.
NATURE IN A DISH (Previous page, clockwise from top):
Chef Gert de Mangeleer of three Michelin-starred
Brasserie Hertog Jan in Belgium created his whimsically
named A Walk in the Gardens of Manila using local
SDSD\D VZHHW SRWDWR DQG HGLEOH ˊRZHUV IURP D 0DQLOD
market. This dish was the perfect showcase of his ethos
of simplicity, seasonality and architecturally beautiful
dishes.
As part of Filipino chef Josh Boutwood of The Test
Kitchen’s zero waste ethos, he likes to use “ugly”
vegetables, pickling and dehydrating them, then grating
them for texture (carrots) or plating them (pickled
radishes) on top of dishes like this seared steak glazed
with a complex, peppery sauce.
Ray Adriansyah and Eelke Plasmeijer of Locavore in
Ubud, Indonesia (No. 22 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants)
cook with up to 90% local ingredients. Their trademark
dish, Into The Sawah is “everything that lives and grows
LQ WKH ULFHˉHOG LQ D ERZOȣ WKH\ H[SODLQHG 0DGH ZLWK
indigenous bakui rice, harvested only once a year because
it grows so slowly, this dish contains snails, duck’s egg
\RON IURJȠV OHJV ˊRVV pako (fern tips) and santan ˊRZHUV
(This page): 1 Rodrigo de la Calle of one Michelin-starred
El Invernadero in Madrid created culinary masterpieces
out of vegetables—like this artichoke “hamburger”
or macaron. 2 “We need to make a conscious effort
as chefs to feed people healthy, delicious food,” says
Filipino-American pastry chef Sally Camacho 3 Filipino
chef Robby Goco of Cyma Greek Taverna and organic
farm-to-table Green Pastures gave a fresh spin on healthy
and sustainable goat meat, making goat jamon and head
cheese—all for the goal of creating more demand and
changing cultural perceptions about goat meat. 4 Sally
Camacho’s eclair-inspired dessert made with duck eggs
and Philippine mango 5 The architecture of a dish is as
LPSRUWDQW DV WKH ˊDYRU VD\V Gert de Mangeleer of Hertog
Jan 6 French chef Julien Royer of two Michelin-starred
Odette in Singapore may have to import pigeon from
France to create his signature dish, but he compensates
by using every single part of the bird—breast, leg, heart,
liver, bones, even the head and feet—to create a dish as

50 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


1 Simon Rogan of L’Enclume in Cumbria,
England creates his culinary masterpieces
with lowly vegetables. He presented a
dish of hemp leaves, dried beetroot and
ferns infused with blackcurrant wood.
“Humans are designed to eat vegetables,”
said this multi-awarded chef. 2 Paco
Pérez of two Michelin-starred Miramar
in Llança, Spain put sea urchins, kombu,
algae (because sea urchins live in algae),
and the water that was used to wash the
sea urchins in a pressure cooker to create
“the very essence of the sea urchin itself.”
3 Magnus Ek of two Michelin-starred
Oaxen Krog and Oaxen Slip in Stockholm,
Sweden used 60-year-old mahogany
clams, chosen because at that age the
clams no longer reproduce, and therefore
harvesting them has minimal effect on
the ecology. 4 Pastry chef Jordi Roca of
the famed El Celler de Can Roca in Girona,
Spain and his wife, pastry chef Alejandra
Rivas, presented his signature dessert—a
FDUDPHO VSKHUH ˉOOHG ZLWK DSSOH IRDPȞWKDW
harkens back to his childhood days, while
incorporating a technique used for glass
blowing. Here, to localize the dessert,
he used mango foam instead of apple.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 51


SMART WAYS
TO COOK
SUSTAINABLY
Respect nature
Cook with the
seasons, using produce
only when it is in
season.
Prioritize locally
sourced and
sustainably-grown
ingredients.
Make vegetables the
main part of your dish,
rather than meat.
Grow your own fruits
and vegetables.
Use imported
ingredients only if
they’re an important
component of a dish.

Don’t waste
Create a menu that
uses all parts of an
ingredient—innards,
bones, trimmings.
Preserve discarded
ingredients by pickling
them or infusing them
in vinegars.

Be community driven
Learn to collaborate
with your kitchen
team—they’re your
partners, not your
subordinates.
Get to know the
IDUPHUV DQG ˉVKHUIRON
who grow or catch your
food.
Be involved with
local community
organizations.

1 Vicky Lau, Asia’s Best Female Chef 2015 and


owner of Tate Dining Room in Hong Kong,
demonstrated two vastly different concepts
that drew from her Asian roots and experiences,
XVLQJ JURXSHU VRXUFHG IURP D VXVWDLQDEOH ˉVK
farm in Hong Kong. 2 Chef Kamilla Seidler of
Gustu in Bolivia (No. 14 Latin America’s 50 Best)
created a lovely crocodile meat salad using
100% Bolivian ingredients. Together with co-
speaker Michelangelo Cestari, they work with
local communities to drive social and economic
development in Bolivia. 3 French-Filipina sisters
Tatiana and Katia Levha of Le Servan in Paris made
pork belly with an adobo-style sauce, followed by
fried wonton ravioli which made use of all of the
leftover vegetables from the pork belly—a smart
way to maximize quality products while keeping
prices down. 4 Filipino chef Jordy Navarra of Toyo
(DWHU\ EURXJKW -KXQ )DEUH D PDVWHU ˉVKHUPDQ
from Batanes who, with deftness and precision,
broke down a dorado the Ivatan way in 20
minutes, for Chef Jordy’s kinilaw dish.

52 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


The International
Gastronomy Expo
brought together over
200 exhibitors who
showcased their very
best products, from
ingredients, farm
produce and wines, to
cookware and books. A
series of simultaneous
presentations, seminars
and food tastings made
it even more exciting.

1 The array of farm-fresh produce at the Department of Agriculture’s booth was happy evidence of a growing number of farmers who grow food
XVLQJ VXVWDLQDEOH PHWKRGV (GLEOH ˊRZHUV IUXLW SURGXFH DQG KHUEV ZHUH RQ GLVSOD\ IURP 'RZQ WR (DUWK (DUWKEHDW )DUPV 7HUDRND )DPLO\ )DUP
Malipayon Farms and others. 2 )URP WKH ˉUVW XUEDQ GLVWLOOHU\ LQ 0DGULG Santamanía Gin is made from spirits distilled from Spanish grapes and
juniper berries. 3 The Jamon Iberico at Terry Selection was a crowd drawer, expertly carved by Miguel Lopez Teves, the only Filipino licensed
maestro cortado (master carver). 4 The sili ice cream at the Albay booth offered a pleasing combination of heat and cream. 5 Giving Italy’s limoncello
a run for its money, Kalamancello by the Philippine Calamansi Association is made with pure calamansi concentrate and coco nectar. 6 From
La Mancha, the largest wine producing region in Spain, Bodega Campos Reales produces elegant tempranillos and other blends, including a
biodynamic syrah tempranillo from their Canforrales line. 7 Glenda Barretto of Via Mare was honored with the Les Toques Blanches Philippines’
Culinary Icon Award for her contributions to Philippine gastronomy, presented by LTB Philippines president Fernando Aracama and J Gamboa.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 53


A SERIES OF
EXCEPTIONAL EVENTS
A talk and tasting on Filipino
food by the Philippine Culinary
Heritage Movement
For those interested in helping
protect, preserve and promote
Philippine cuisine, the Philippine
Culinary Heritage Movement
(PCHM) held “The Philippines
on a Plate: Think and Eat With
Us” lecture and taste workshop
GXULQJ WKH ˉUVW GD\ RI WKH ([SR
Food writer and researcher
Ige Ramos touched upon our
culinary history as multicultural
and multi-layered. He enjoined
Filipinos to start at the
grassroots or barangay level to
continue to cook and serve our
traditional dishes. For the taste
workshop, PCHM President Chef
Jam Melchor served his tasty
chicken morcon using Pamora
free-range chicken and Benguet
vegetables supplied by the
Seeds & Fruits Multipurpose
Cooperative, followed by tastings
by Hiraya Filipino Bean-to-Bar
Chocolate from Davao and
KKK Coffee. To learn more, visit
Philippine Culinary Heritage
Movement on Facebook

Chef Tatung Sarthou’s exposé on


the local salt-making industry
Chef Tatung debuted an excerpt
of his thought-provoking new
video documentary, Seasons
of Salt, during the third day
of the Expo. Eye-opening and
informative, the documentary
narrates how the Philippines
has to import most of the
salt available in the market—
1 One Mindanao’s booth was
certainly ironic given that the
a treasure trove of artisanal country is surrounded by the
products: high quality sea. Through riveting interviews
Malagos cacao, including with salt producers, government
calamansi-infused chocolate RIˉFLDOV DQG HYHQ bagoong and
bars; specialty suman Ozamiz; tinapa makers, Chef Tatung
binaki from Cagayan de Oro; questions why the Philippines
wonderfully intense Alavar can’t produce more of its own
Sauce from Zamboanga; salt, and challenges the public to
gourmet pangus from Lake support local salt producers who
Buluan in Maguindanao. produce better quality, healthier
2 Negros Occidental was salts than the imported ones.
represented by Fresh Start Visit Myke Tatung Sarthou on
Organics which had a whole Facebook for announcement of
range of new products, airing schedule
including single origin coffee
beans, wild honey (with tasting Workshops on Philippine coffee,
seed exchange and the Slow
notes!), heirloom rice and
Food movement
vacuum-packed piaya LQ ˊDYRUV As part of the advocacy for the
like corn, ube and cacao. Slow Food movement, Chit Juan
3 The Spanish Pavilion of Philippine Coffee Origins gave
VKRZFDVHG ˉQH SURGXFWV IURP a talk about Philippine coffees—
Spain including wines, jamon from coffee appreciation to
and charcuterie, cheese and GLVFHUQLQJ WKH ˉQH QXDQFHV
bottled delicacies. 4 The LQ ˊDYRU RI EHDQV JURZQ LQ
Philippine provinces were different parts of the country.
strongly represented with Slow Food Manila also arranged
interesting products like this a seed exchange where farmers
Island Gems bottled laing. and hobbyists shared seeds and
Other items we discovered stories, a crucial step in building
included El Tigre and Garapal a community of food growers.
Hot Sauces, Destileria Slow Food Manila gathers local
Limtuaco’s Julius James Corn farmers, restaurateurs and
chefs to promote local cuisine
Whisky, Calaboo butter made
and grow produce in natural
from carabao milk, and Cavite ways. Visit Slow Food Manila on
FUDIW EHHUV LQ ˊDYRUV OLNH halo- Facebook
halo and puto bumbong.

54 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


For MFM’s highly anticipated Regional Lunches,
the Department of Agriculture invited the country’s
most exciting chefs to create unique dishes using
heirloom rice, corn and literally all the parts of
the animal (also called nose-to-tail eating). The
Department of Tourism showcased restaurants
and food producers from Luzon, Visayas, and
Mindanao too. Everyone’s favorite caterer,Via
Mare, was also present, not to mention sponsor
booths scattered around the venue, offering beer,
spirits, ice cream, chocolate and other local delights.

1 Happy Ongpauco-Tiu’s Luz, Vi and Minda’s heirloom tacos—Ifugao black rice tortillas with pickled vegetables, fruits in gata, and your choice of
Batangas bulalo carne asada, Cebuano lechon or Gensan tuna tataki 2 From Eastern Visayas, humba or pork belly stewed with coconut vinegar,
topped with crunchy lechon RU URDVWHG SRUN ˊDNHV RQ ULFH 3 Toasted brown rice and munggo carabao’s milk ice cream by Peachy Juban, Miko Aspiras
and Kristine Lotilla 4 A seasonal delicacy in Nueva Vizcaya, lagdaw are small fresh water shrimps, here served as okoy or fritters by Mrs. Bakers Cafe
5 Tina Legarda’s pili-rubbed pork ribs on steamed corn and coconut rice, pomelo sambal, wansoy gremolata and fried coconut 6 JP Anglo of Sarsa
Kitchen + Bar’s very popular Next Generation Adobo, which uses all the parts of the chicken (including the heart, liver, butcheron or esophagus)
7 Café Via Mare’s delicious batchoy made with pork, liver, tripe and cruncy chicharon

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 55


1 Mama Sita served arroz caldo nose-to-tail style, with goto (tripe)
and housemade beef stock (see recipe) with all the trimmings and
toppings like fried garlic, spring onions and calamansi. Goto-arroz
Mama Sita’s Goto caldo was a very important part of Teresita “Mama Sita” Reyes’ life.
Arroz Caldo This heirloom recipe from her mother was the very foundation
By Teresita Reyes upon which she built her culinary empire! On May 11 this year,
Serves 4 to 6 Mama Sita will celebrate Teresita Reyes’ birth centenary. 2 Claude
Tayag and Mary Anne Quioc presented this Pampangueño corn
porridge, pictured on the right (see recipe) as part of the third day
200 grams malagkit rice of the Regional Lunches, which celebrated the versatility of corn.
(haba)
100 grams regular rice
3/4 cup gisa base (recipe
below) until light brown and UHPDLQLQJ LQJUHGLHQWV &RYHU corn kernels in a pot. Add
1/2 kilo goto (ox tripe), fragrant. and simmer for 5 hours then water and bring to a boil.
cooked and sliced 2. Add onions and sauté strain stock. Alternatively, you can cook
12 cups beef stock (recipe until soft and translucent, 4. 'LVFDUG ERQHV $OORZ VWRFN rice using a rice cooker.
below) 3. Add ginger and sauté until to cool then skim off fat. 2. Lower the heat and
ˉVKVDXFHWRWDVWH softened. simmer for approximately
1/4 cup chopped spring 4. Add salt and black pepper. COOK’S NOTE: Joyce 30 minutes, scraping the
onion, for garnish Simmer over low heat until Sandoval, granddaughter bottom with a spatula every
oil boils and separates from of Mama Sita, shares, “Mas so often to avoid burning.
1. Wash malagkit rice and the mixture. maganda kung may kaunting 3. Add the second-press
laman yung beef bones para
regular rice together using a mas malasa.” gata and pandan leaves.
VWUDLQHUb'UDLQDQGVHWDVLGH BEEF S TOCK Add more water if porridge
2. In a pot, heat gisa base (Makes about 12 cups): becomes too thick while rice
(recipe below) over low heat 3 1/2 kilos beef bones Kapampangan Corn is still not fully cooked.
until melted. (scraps from ribs, Porridge (Lelut Mais) 4. Add kakang gata and
3. Sauté cooked gotoEULHˊ\ kneecaps, shank), By Claude Tayag sugar. Mix well and cook for
4. Add washed rice, beef preferably with some Serves 8 to 10 another 5 to 10 minutes.
VWRFN UHFLSHEHORZ DQGˉVK meat and cartilage Adjust consistency and
VDXFHDQGOHWLWERLOb5HGXFH 1 red onion, quartered 1 cup malagkit (glutinous) sweetness by adding more
heat and simmer constantly 24 cups water rice, presoaked in water water and sugar accordingly.
stirring until mixture slightly 2 whole stalks leeks for 30 minutes 5. Top with pastillas de leche.
thickens, about 45 to 60 1/4 teaspoon black 1 cup tinawon rice Serve warm or chilled.
minutes. peppercorns 4 cobs sweet Japanese
5. Top with spring onions corn, kernels scraped with COOK’S NOTE: If heirloom
before serving. 1. Sear bones in a pre- a knife (or 1 425-gram can Ifugao tinawon rice is
unavailable, any round
heated 400ºF oven until whole kernel corn) JUDLQ ULFH ZLOO GR 7KH 
GISA BA SE: MXVWEURZQDOORYHUb7XUQ 6 cups water ratio of malagkit and round
6 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons bones every 30 minutes for 2 cups gata (second-press JUDLQ ULFH ZLOO UHVXOW LQ D
vegetable oil 1 hour depending on the coconut milk) well-balanced, starchy whole
grain porridge.
4 heads garlic, minced quantity and texture of beef 4 pandan leaves
2 red onions, minced ERQHVb5HPRYHERQHVIURP 2 cups kakang gata ˉUVW
1 thumb-sized knob ginger, the oven. press coconut cream) PHOTO CREDITS: Gert
de Mangeleer, Sally
minced 2. Transfer bones to 1/2 cup white sugar, or Camacho, JP Anglo,
1 1/2 teaspoons salt a stockpot and pour more according to taste Humba and Lechon Flakes,
1/8 teaspoon ground black ZDWHUb&RYHUDQGOHWLW pastillas de leche, for International Gastronomy
Expo, RICKY LADIA; Glenda
pepper boil then reduce heat topping Barretto’s award, RUDY
immediately. LIWANAG; International
1. Heat pan and add 3. Remove scum appearing 1. Place presoaked glutinous Gastronomy Congress,
courtesy of Madrid Fusión
YHJHWDEOHRLOb6DXW«JDUOLF on the surface then add rice, tinawon rice and Manila

56 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


TRULY FARM TO TABLE
Mary Jane Bucio is one of the Tuloy
Foundation scholars who learned
the importance of using fresh, local
produce as a chef. In Tuloy Foundation,
they learn how to sustainably grow
organic produce like lettuce and
cherry tomatoes using terraponics and
hydroponics techniques.

58 FOOD | 2017 Issue 1


Thanks to Tuloy Foundation’s partnership with Enderun Colleges and
Ducasse Institute Philippines, talented youths can find a way out of
poverty by learning how to cook professionally from world-class chefs
By MARILEN FONTANILLA
Photography by RICKY LADIA

“I do believe that learning cooking is a very effective way for less fortunate
people to get a job and have access to a better life.”
—Chef Alain Ducasse

I
t all started with one man’s vision: velouté with crushed chestnuts and share a lot of similar values, such as
to save children from wasting their delicate sauce royale, duck foie gras doing things as best you can, with an
lives on the streets. Father Rocky confit with a spicy mango chutney emphasis on people’s welfare, a chance
Evangelista started Tuloy Foundation over a Parisian brioche, poached spiny for excellence, the value of discipline
in 1993 to nurture at-risk kids by lobster from the Hundred Islands coated and doing things well. These are values
sheltering them and educating them with a rich crustacean sauce, to prime we try to teach here and Enderun’s
so they can be equipped with the Wagyu beef from Bukidnon, studded culture of education is a kind of soul
proper foundation, to give them better with Taggiasche olives and drizzled mate.”
opportunities in the future. “Our with truffled jus. But at the end, it was
belief is that these children are not the simple herbal infusion from Tuloy’s Finding hope for the future
poor, but are simply poor (in terms of) garden that helped to calmly close the Tuloy’s scholars agree with Father
opportunities. There is a culture in our event, in the same manner that Father Rocky, as they recall how their outlook
country that if you are poor, then you Rocky quietly basked in the guests’ in life has changed through Youth With
are worthless. We wanted to reverse warm support for his children. A Future. Nelyn Hatol, Jockey Rose
that. We believe that every human Villahermosa, Mary Jane Bucio and
being should be treated equally with Nurturing the dream Roselle Bayon-on shared similar views
dignity,” said Father Rocky. Three years later, I had the opportunity of originally seeking work to support
My first encounter with Tuloy to catch up with Father Rocky and their family. “Ngayon, motivated ka
Foundation was at a charity dinner his scholars at Tuloy’s hidden enclave not just to work but to become a
and auction in March 2014 when in Alabang. It was a warm day but professional,” Nelyn affirmed.
Enderun Colleges and Ducasse Institute the laughter of students permeated They learned the value of discipline,
Philippines hosted a fund-raising the air as we meandered through the confidence and always doing your best.
benefit for the ten scholars who would aqua terraponics that lined the central “Sabi ni Father, kahit walang nakatingin
become the first batch of the Youth building. The foundation, which started do your best,” Mary Jane said. “Trust
With A Future initiative. It was a huge with twelve students, is now home to yourself,” Roselle confided. “You can’t
gala event, as befitted guest of honor about a thousand—200 residents and do anything if wala kang tiwala sa sarili
Chef Alain Ducasse, who is one of the 800 from the nearby communities. mo.”
world’s most celebrated chefs. The Father Rocky feels blessed to have Father Rocky and Tuloy dared
dinner boasted of seasonal and quality found a kindred spirit in Enderun. “It’s a them to dream. “Be determined to
ingredients, from a cep mushroom partnership of two organizations which achieve a future. Don’t just be carried

FOOD | 2017 Issue 1 59


SPECIAL FEATURE
WHAT’S NEXT FOR TULOY
FOUNDATION
Father Rocky reveals how Tuloy has
already expanded to Angeles City
and will soon have centers in Biñan
and eventually Nueva Ecija. “The
partnership is not just about giving
a better future for our children. Here
is an example to the world and to
the country. Working together and
networking is the call of the times. We
are focused on the children because
every child we save from becoming a
criminal is a contribution to the country.
We want this to be our contribution to a
better Philippines.”

away by circumstances aspires to have a cruise line


outside,” Father Rocky that she can fill with Tuloy
shared. His students agree graduates someday, so she
wholeheartedly as they can show the world what
eagerly disclosed what they they are capable of.
hoped to achieve in the I was amazed as I listened
future. Nelyn is actually set to these young ladies, filled
to work in Alain Ducasse’s with such big dreams, yet
Michelin-starred restaurant never forgetting where they
in Le Pont de L’Ouysse came from. “Our teachers
hotel in Lacave, France. made us feel that kaya namin
Eventually though, she looks gawin ang ginagawa nila,”
forward to going back to Jockey recalled. “Dapat pag
Tuloy as a teacher, like her nandoon ka na rin sa status
mentor Chef See Cheong nila, ang tulong na binigay sa
Yan, the Culinary Head of akin, ibabalik ko din,” Mary
Enderun Colleges. “I want Jane added. “They gave me
to be like them kasi sila the strength para matupad
magaling sila and at the same ko ang pangarap ko. Sabi ni
time, tumutulong sila sa less Chef JP (Jean-Pierre Migné,
fortunate na kabataan tulad previous Culinary Head
namin.” of Tuloy Foundation) do it
Jockey Rose hopes to with your heart, follow with
A SUSTAINABLE FOOD ECOSYSTEM, EXEMPLIFIED have a restaurant someday your heart, give it with your
(From top): The aqua terraponics farm in Tuloy Foundation includes (1) a that will also support Tuloy heart,” Roselle ended.
URFN KLOO JDUGHQ WKDW RYHUORRNV WKH IRRWEDOO ˉHOG LQ WKH EDFN DQG  VHYHUDO graduates like her. Mary Jane
greenhouses. Here, many of Tuloy’s produce are being grown, including
assorted herbs, lettuce, pandan, tomatoes and kangkong. (3) They also breed wants to work abroad and A burning hunger
tilapia as part of this ecosystem. Recycled water and organic soil ensure a further hone her pastry skills A lot of their gratitude
self-sustaining habitat that the students take care of as part of their daily
responsibilities
for her future café. Roselle, extends to their mentors
who is with a shipping line, in Enderun like Chef See,

60 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Tilapia at Buro
Nelyn, currently a demi chef at Gallery Vask, regularly cooks
this Tilapia at Buro dish in Chef Chele Gonzalez’ restaurant,
listed no. 35 in this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Here, it
features tilapia from the Tuloy pond, cheekily paired with buro
rice—local tinawon rice fermented with salt and water for three
days—in an imaginative rendition of sustainable and local.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 61


SPECIAL FEATURE
Tuloy Foundation Tea
HOW DOES after graduation with This homemade iced tea is a
THE YOUTH WKHLU  DFWLYH LQGXVWU\ throwback to the tea infusion
WITH A FUTURE partners.
from the charity dinner in
SCHOLARSHIP
PROGRAM WORK? To be able to sustain this  EXW DOVR DQ KRPDJH
program, it is necessary to Tuloy’s greens, freshly
STEP 1 Possible to generate enough funds harvested from the garden. The
applicants are made WR FRYHU WKH ˉQDQFLDO FRRO ˊDYRUV DUH LQIXVHG IURP
to undergo a rigorous needs of the ten selected pandan leaves, lemongrass and
screening process by scholars. Both individual
and corporate donors
mint—all picked from the aqua
the Tuloy management
team and Alain Ducasse are always welcome to terraponics farm.
Institute Philippines. Fr. give to support this noble
5RFN\ WKHQ GRHV WKH ˉQDO initiative.
assessment, and chooses
ten of the best students YOUTH WITH A FUTURE
from every batch. www.youthwithafuture.ph
STEP 2 The ten selected Donations can be coursed
scholars undergo an through Tuloy Foundation
8-month culinary and basic or Enderun Colleges.
pastry program in the
Tuloy Foundation campus. TULOY
They are also responsible FOUNDATION INC.
for the daily meals of the Tuloy sa Don Bosco
residents (which averages Street Children Village
to about 300) as well as Alabang-Zapote Road cor.
special functions and San Jose Village
school events. Alabang, Muntinlupa City
STEP 3 $IWHU WKH\ ˉQLVK Tel. (02) 775-0484 to 85,
at Tuloy, they go on to (02) 775-0683 local 402
study in Enderun under Email: projdev2@
the tutelage of Chefs Marc tuloyfoundation.org
Chalopin and See Cheong www.tuloyfoundation.org
Yan for the next three
months. ENDERUN COLLEGES
STEP 4 This is followed 1100 Campus Avenue
by a 3-month internship McKinley Hill, Fort Bonifacio
in local restaurants, after Taguig City
which the Enderun Career Tel. (02) 856-5000
6HUYLFH 2IˉFH SODFHV WKHP www.enderuncolleges.com
in permanent positions

LIVING THE DREAM


(Clockwise from left):
Roselle credits her culinary
mentors in helping her
learn how to use herbs in
her cooking; Jockey Rose
is now employed at Made
Nice Supper Club. Here, she
plates her signature Tuloy
Salad; Nelyn is currently a
demi-chef at Gallery Vask

62 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Capunatina Salad
This refreshing salad by Chef See presents a respectful homage to the naturalness
FXLVLQH WKDW &KHI $ODLQ 'XFDVVH KDV HPEUDFHG RYHU  \HDUV DJR 7KH UHFLSH LV D
FRPELQDWLRQ RI LQJUHGLHQWV WKDW DUH ˊDYRUIXO SRZHUKRXVHV IURP QXWULHQWGHQVH
vegetables of eggplants, zucchini and bell peppers to fresh kesong puti. A lovely
interpretation of the capunatina recipe found in Ducasse’s Nature: Simple, Healthy
and Good cookbook, this dish was prepared for Chef Alain’s private visit last year
using fresh burrata cheese sourced from a French gentleman in Bulacan.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 63


SPECIAL FEATURE
Jockey Rose’s Tuloy Salad
“The carrots at the base
represent Tuloy and the
salad greens above it are
the dreams of the kids.
7KH HGLEOH ˊRZHUV DUH WKH
achievements while the seeds
and croutons embody the
problems and values that we
learned. The students are
the plate, because normal
lang kami but Tuloy gave us
the opportunities to become
something more,” shares
Jockey Rose.

THE MENTOR AND HIS MENTEES


Chef See admits he is particularly hard
on his scholars. “I always tell them
there is no free lunch in the world. You
have to jump higher, run faster, work
harder than the rest. But if you are very
genuine about it, honest about it and
stay to the ground like this, you can
make it. I don’t want anyone to tell
them they can’t, because they can. And
they should not allow anyone to tell
them they can’t.”

who was instrumental in


training them and getting
them placed in prestigious
establishments such as Four
Seasons Dubai, Chateau
1771, Milky Way, Gallery
Vask, Made Nice, Somerset
Alabang, Restaurant 101 and
OSM Shipping.
As an educator, Chef See
explains the tough love he
has for his scholars. “I want
to teach them how to fish. I
am hard on all my students
but I must say, I am a little
harder on them because I to succeed.” be determined to succeed kitchen for our lunch.
want them to realize that this This year, as Tuloy’s because they know they have The future certainly
opportunity is not easy to partnership with Enderun less choices than others from looks bright for these
come by. As a teacher, you Colleges enters its fourth year, more privileged backgrounds. youths, whose lives have
can modify behavior and soft Chef See beams as he looks They know that they need been forever changed by a
skills but the hardest lesson back on all of the scholars to commit,” he ends with dream that was nurtured by
to teach anyone is hunger. that have gone through a bit of fatherly pride as he Tuloy Foundation, Enderun
These kids have hunger—the the program. “I am quite watches his scholars prep in Colleges and Alain Ducasse
very hunger that drives them certain that these people will the Culinary Arts Center’s Institute Philippines.

64 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Tuloy Salad 1 tablespoon pine nuts 3 small red onions, banana leaf and place on
By Jockey Rose extra virgin olive oil cut in half top of rice. Add pickled
Villahermosa 1 teaspoon lemon juice chicken stock onion and mustard leaves.
Serves 1 12 sun-dried tomatoes, 1 zucchini, cut into 5. Top with the crispy tilapia
cut into brunoise or diced small circles skin. Sprinkle with salt.
1 orange, juiced ˉQHO\ 3 tablespoons sliced red
2 tablespoons olive oil 5 sun-dried tomatoes, bell pepper, cut into BU RO RISOT TO:
1 1/2 tablespoons cut in half, for garnish small circles 150 grams tinawon heirloom
sour cream 12 celery heart leaves rice
salt and pepper,  ]XFFKLQL ˊRZHUV 1. In a pan, melt butter and 2 tablespoons cooking oil
to taste 3 pieces kesong puti or slightly cook red onions. 1 1/2 tablespoons
3 cloves garlic local burrata if available Deglaze with chicken stock minced onion
1 teaspoon cumin powder ground black pepper, and cover. Remove slightly 2 teaspoons minced garlic
 WHDVSRRQ FKLOL ˊDNHV to taste cooked red onions. Set 2 teaspoons minced ginger
2 tablespoons olive oil ˊHXU GH VHO WR WDVWH aside. 1 1/2 tablespoons diced
3/4 cup baby carrots extra virgin olive oil, for 2. In a separate pan, blanch tomatoes, blanched
1 cup salad greens drizzling the zucchini and red bell 3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon
 WHDVSRRQV VXQˊRZHU VHHGV pepper in boiling water. tomato juice
2 teaspoons quinoa 1. In a cocotte or skillet, After a few seconds, remove salt and pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon croutons sweat red onion, garlic vegetables and shock in ice
cloves, thyme and bell water to stop cooking. Set 1. To make the buro, cook
1. To make the salad pepper. Add eggplant and aside. tinawon heirloom rice in
dressing, combine orange zucchini. Add chicken stock water and salt. Let ferment
juice, olive oil and sour and cover the cocotte. Allow SAUCE: for 3 days in a jar in a cool,
cream. Season with salt and to simmer. 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar dark place.
pepper. Set aside. 2. Add sherry vinegar and 2 tablespoons sherry 2. Sauté onion, garlic and
2. Blend garlic, cumin, chili, reduce. Toss vegetables in vinegar ginger in cooking oil. Add
olive oil, and turn into a the reduced sherry vinegar blanched tomatoes.
paste. Set aside. mixture. Transfer the cooked Combine balsamic vinegar 3. Add buro rice and tomato juice.
3. On a baking tray, toss vegetables to a tray and with sherry vinegar in a 4. Cook until rice mixture
the carrots with the garlic- allow to cool. saucepan. Over low heat, binds together. Season with
cumin-chili paste. Roast in a 3. In a separate pan, toast allow to reduce into a syrup. salt and pepper.
r) RYHQ IRU  PLQXWHV pine nuts with olive oil and Place in a squeeze bottle,
Set aside. salt. Once toasted, sprinkle and allow to cool. Tuloy Foundation Tea
4. Clean salad greens and cut some lemon juice and allow Serves 20
into smaller pieces. Set aside. to cool on a tray. Tilapia at Buro
5. ,Q D SDQ WRDVW VXQˊRZHU 4. Mix cooked vegetables By Chele Gonzalez 50 grams pandan leaves
seeds for 3 minutes. Set aside. with toasted pine nuts and of Gallery Vask 40 grams lemongrass
6. In a separate pan, lightly sun-dried tomatoes. Season Serves 2 3 tablespoons mint leaves
toast the quinoa. Set aside. to taste. 20 cups water
7. On a plate, assemble the 5. To assemble, set cooked  JUDPV WLODSLD ˉOOHW honey or sugar, optional
roasted carrots and salad vegetables on a cold plate. remove skin and reserve
greens, then sprinkle with Arrange sun-dried tomatoes, salt and pepper, to taste 1. Wash thoroughly pandan
VXQˊRZHU VHHGV TXLQRD DQG celery heart leaves and handful of fresh Thai basil leaves, lemongrass and mint
croutons. Toss with prepared ]XFFKLQL ˊRZHU SHWDOV RYHU leaves, chiffonade leaves.
salad dressing. the cooked vegetables. banana leaf, for wrapping 2. In a stock pot with
6. Place zucchini, red bell 1 teaspoon sliced pickled water, boil pandan leaves,
Capunatina pepper circles and small onions lemongrass and mint leaves
By See Cheong Yan red onion halves (recipe 10 grams mustard leaves, for about 30 minutes, then
of Enderun Colleges below) around the cooked small leaves only turn off the heat.
Serves 2 vegetables. Drizzle sauce 3. Allow leaves to steep for
(recipe below) over the 1. Season tilapia with salt, DQRWKHU  WR  PLQXWHV
1/4 cup olive oil vegetables. pepper and Thai basil. Wrap without heat. After a few
1/3 cup minced red onion 7. Place drained kesong with banana leaf and steam minutes, strain and transfer
2 cloves garlic, scored puti on top of vegetables. IRU  WR  PLQXWHV to a tea pot or pitcher.
1/2 teaspoon thyme 6SULQNOH ˊHXU GH VHO DQG 2. Fry reserved tilapia skin 4. Serve tea hot or cold,
1 small yellow bell pepper, pepper on top. Drizzle or bake in an oven until sweetened with honey or
cut into 1-cm squares with olive oil right before crispy. Set aside. sugar.
1 large eggplant, diced serving. 3. To assemble, place a
1 medium zucchini, diced mound of buro risotto
3/4 cup chicken stock ZUCCHINI A N D BE LL (recipe below) in the center
2 tablespoons sherry PE PPE R G A RNISH: of plate.
vinegar 2 tablespoons salted butter 4. Unwrap tilapia from

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 65


We hopped around 7,107 islands to bring you to our
most memorable destinations, our best-tasting
meals, and the must-have pasalubong that will
whet your appetite for culinary adventure

Buri placemat in natural and orange,


buri placemat in natural, malong.
KULTURA FILIPINO (SM Megamall)

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 67


Krispy Kare-kare
Kare-kare is believed to have
originated among the Indian
sepoys brought by the British
in the 18th century. They
settled on our islands and
adapted their native curry,
using ingredients found on
our shores. This dish evolved
into the kare-kare we know
and love. The chefs at 7107
Culture + Cuisine played
with this traditional oxtail
peanut stew, substituting the
oxtail with crispy pork bagnet
IURP,ORFRVDQGˊDYRULQJ
the sauce with fresh peanut
butter from Quezon province.
It’s one of the most popular
dishes at this new-gen
Filipino restaurant.

Buri placemat in natural and orange,


KULTURA FILIPINO (SM Megamall)

68 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Luzon
1 Annie Bea Carinderia, Angeles City,
Pampanga Chef and food writer Claude
Tayag proclaims, “I’ll vote her one of
the best home-cooked carinderia ever.”
While sisig is a best seller, they also
serve special occasion dishes like
Sipo Egg made with boiled quail egg,
chicken giblets and vegetables in cream
sauce. 2099 Jesus Street corner MacArthur
Highway, Pulungbulo, Angeles City, (0916)
252-3126
2 Bordado, San Miguel, Bulacan
Bordado is the art of carving intricate
designs on fruit like fragrant dayap,
which are stuffed with pastillas de leche
and preserved in syrup. Translucent
against the light, bordado is a dying art
now solely done by Naty Ocampo Cruz.
To order, call (0922) 861-1379
3 The Coco Spice Adventures culinary
tour, Albay and Sorsogon, Bicol
For a different kind of culinary
experience, go on a three-day food
tour to discover the riches of the Bicol
region. Learn to cook regional dishes
like pinangat in Camalig; try Guinobatan
longanisa; harvest sea urchin and lato
(sea grapes) in Pilar; have lunch on a
ˊRDWLQJ EDPERR UDIW YLVLW *LUDZDQ
Village in Donsol to learn about cacao
and pili nut processing. It’s an eye-open-
ing experience, and best of all, you’ll
be helping local communities. For tour
package information and other culinary
tours, (02) 994-6636, (0918) 897-4670,
(0918) 900-1415, EatYourHistory@Food-
Holidays.PH, www.FoodHolidays.PH
4 Suman sa palaspas, Santa Cruz,
Marinduque This island province is best
known for the Moriones Festival,
held every Holy Week, so it’s apt that
a local specialty is called suman sa
palaspas, referring to the palm leaves
used on Palm Sundays, except that this
suman is wrapped in coconut leaves.
Santa Cruz Public Market, Santa Cruz,
Marinduque
5 Halo-halo sa Carwash, Taal, Batangas
7KH LFH LV VKDYHG VR ˉQHO\ WKDW LWȠV
feather-soft, and the condiments so
GLVFLSOLQHG WKDW WKH ˊDYRUV DUH GHOLJKW-
fully well-balanced. Served in the home
of Jhun Estacio, next door to a car wash,
this is the one treat you must not miss
in Taal. Ask around and a local will be
sure to point it out to you. Estacio Car
Wash across Gregorio Agoncillo Ancestral
House, Taal, Batangas
6 Aling Belen’s longanisa, Isabela,
Cagayan Bright red from the atsuete,
with just the right amount of sweetness
and saltiness, this longanisa is one of
our favorites. Belen Recometa-Holgado
has been making her special longanisa
for over 30 years, and thus has devel-
oped quite a following among longanisa
lovers here. Cauayan Market, Isabela
7 Irene’s Vigan Empanada, Vigan, Ilocos
Sur Irene’s famous Vigan empanada is
FULVS\ ˉOOLQJ DQG DEVROXWHO\
delicious. The pastry wrapping, made
with galapong ULFH ˊRXU DQG atsuete, is
ˉOOHG ZLWK JUHHQ SDSD\D GHHSIULHG DQG
dipped in piquant sukang Iloko. Irene
Santos is a fourth-generation
empanada maker, and has made her
version even heartier with garlicky
Vigan longanisa and whole eggs. It also
comes in longa-chicken, beef, tuna and
vegetarian variants. Salcedo Street,
Vigan, Ilocos Sur, (077) 722-0581,
722-0581, 723-1517, (0927) 420-1277,
Facebook: irenesviganempanada

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 69


Visayas
1 Parilya, Cebu City
A seaside view, the fresh breeze, alfresco seating and abso-
lutely spot-on Filipino fare will guarantee you a great time
at the newest property of the owners of Cebu’s famous Café
Laguna. Of course, seafood is the prime attraction, whether
LWȠV JULOOHG SUDZQV ˉVK VTXLG FUDE RU IRU PRUH ORFDO ˊDYRU
traditional Cebuano linarang na isda soup. Another specialty
LV /HFKRQ 3DULO\D VORZ URDVWHG RYHU RSHQ ˉUH IRU SHUIHFWO\
crisp skin and tender, aromatic meat. Il Corso, City Di Mare,
South Road Properties, Cebu South Coastal Road, Cebu City,
(032) 511-8832, lagunagroup.ph
2 Punong Gary’s Place, Silay, Negros Occidental Hidden away
in Hacienda Tinihaban is this mystical place of ancient trees,
bamboo groves, modern sculp-
tures and Bali-inspired cottages.
One can simply while away the
day lying on a hammock, stroll-
ing through the footbridges that
WUDYHUVH WKH ROG ˉVKSRQGV RU
taking in a casita for the night.
The home-cooked gourmet
fare—creamy kalabasa soup
with coconut milk, pan-seared
tuna encrusted in sesame seeds,
homemade ice cream—is worth
the visit, of course, whether it’s
D ˉYHFRXUVH OXQFK RU GLQQHU RU
more casual pica-pica during Ta-
pas Night. Reservations required,
(0917) 327-1729, Facebook:
Punong Gary’s Place
3 Maridel’s Cakes and Pastries,
Iloilo City When in Iloilo City,
we strongly recommend that
you stop by this pastry shop,
which has been deemed the
best place for desserts. Popular
items include Potato Praline,
Frozen Lemon Meringue Pie,
and the seasonal Pink Guava
Cake. Plazuela de Iloilo beside
SM City, (33) 508-2253, Facebook:
Maridels.Iloilo
4 Royal Suites Inn, Dumaguete
This is one of those iconic
restaurants that have been
around forever. It’s famous for
its sizzling bulalo, which comes
with the marrow mixed with
homemade gravy. They also
have homemade sardines in
olive oil, and an assortment of
inventive cakes and pastries
made by a home baker who also
happens to be the best ortho-
dontist in town (or so the locals
VD\  'HˉQLWHO\ DQ XQGHUWKH
radar hometown favorite.
Roviro Road, Bantayan,
Dumaguete, (0917) 419-0541
5 Salukara by Rose Gabon,
Catbalogan, Samar
Truly unique to Catbalogan,
salukara refers to native
SDQFDNHV PDGH ZLWK ULFH ˊRXU
and leavened with tuba (young
coconut wine). Rose Gabon of
RG Foods in Borongan has been
making this using her grand-
mother’s recipe for decades.
It’s golden brown, pockmarked
with holes on its surface, with a
VXEWOH IHUPHQWHG ˊDYRU DQG LV
often eaten for breakfast with
tea. RG Foods, Catbalogan, Samar,
(0948) 233-9988

70 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


7107 Sisig
Kapampangan in origin,
sisig has managed to
become a truly national
dish, cooked and
innovated on all
over the archipelago.
While its current form
involves pork parts
(usually cheeks, ears,
tail, brain), it has since
given birth to multiple
variations, involving
tuna, squid, bangus, egg,
even mayonnaise. 7107
Culture + Cuisine’s
version keeps it
classic, served on a
sizzling plate to give
the pork an extra
charred crunch. What-
ever the version and
wherever it’s served,
sisig is always a best
VHOOHUDQGGHˉQLWHO\
TXDOLˉHVDVRQHRIWKH
best dishes the country
has to offer.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 71


Chocnut Turon and Molten
Pastillas Lava Cake
As a sugar-producing country, the
Philippines is never in short supply of
panghimagas or sweets. And with an
abundance of tropical fruits, coconuts,
tsokolate, there’s much to play around
with when it comes to desserts. At 7107
Culture + Cuisine, the ordinary banana
turon is given a chocolatey-peanut
kick thanks to the addition of sari-sari
favorite Chocnut, served with a duo
of peanut butter and chocolate labuyo
sauces. No dessert menu is complete
without chocolate cake, in this case,
7107’s best selling Molten Pastillas Lava
Cake. When you cut into it, instead of
chocolate oozing out, you’ll get melted
pastillas de leche, best enjoyed with a
scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Malong, wooden bowl, spoon with bamboo handle, KULTURA FILIPINO (SM Megamall)

72 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Mindanao
Read, Travel, Eat
If you’re ready for
culinary adventure,
check out these two
comprehensive food
guides that share their
secrets of where to
go and what to eat
around the country.

Linamnam: Eating One’s


Way Around the Philippines
By Claude Tayag and Mary
Ann Quioc
Anvil Publishing, 2011 and
2015
This well-known
husband-and-wife team
travelled the country to
discover the best dishes
to eat, from sisig matua
in Angeles City, kinilaw
in Bacolod, to sinuglaw
in Cagayan de Oro, and
everything in between.
Included too are the
authors’ musings on
sawsawan, adobo, pancit,
longanisa and more. The
second edition takes
RII IURP WKH ˉUVW ZLWK
added destinations like
Marinduque and Palawan.

Food Holidays Philippines


Colors Integrated Travel
Media, Inc, 2016
This annual travel-cum-
food guide curated by
publisher Clang Garcia
and her team of esteemed
food writers covers
the gamut of regional
1 Cheesecakes from Lachi’s, Davao Run by twin brothers Michael and Melvin Aviles, the iconic Lachi’s is fa- food experiences, from
mous for its sans rival %XW ZH GLVFRYHUHG WKH\ DOVR PDNH D OLQH RI FKHHVHFDNHV LQ DVVRUWHG ˊDYRUV HDFK RQH
more luscious than the last. Ruby Street, Marfori Heights, Davao City, (0916) 984-1183, Facebook: lachisdavao provincial restaurant
2 Italian-style pizza, Kermit Surf Shop, Siargao On a remote island where surfers and backpackers roam, an visits to multi-day culinary
,WDOLDQ QDPHG *LDQQL *ULIRQL RSHQHG D FR]\ GLYH EDU DQG ˊHZ LQ D ZRRGˉUHG RYHQ IURP 7XVFDQ\ 7RGD\ KHȠV tours, plus informative
making the chewiest, yummiest pizzas we’ve ever had (it helps that we’ve just come from the beach and
are starving). His tagliatelle and focaccia ain’t bad, either. www.kermitsiargao.com, Facebook: Kermit-Surf-and- essays on Philippine
Dive-Resort 3 Vjandep Pastel, Camiguin Shaped like a bonete to encase a sweet yema custard, Vjandep Pastel cuisine. This handy guide
takes its name from Virgilio Jose (VJ) and Eleanor (EP) Popera, the couple who own the brand. It’s available
LQ  ˊDYRUV IURP WKH SRSXODU FKHHVH yema pastel to ube yema pastel and squash-malunggay pastel. www. also includes recipes,
vjandep.com, Facebook: vjandep 4 Alavar’s, Zamboanga City The landmark Alavar Seafood Restaurant has suggested itineraries,
made Zamboanga famous thanks to its curacha (spanner crab) in Alavar sauce, a secret concoction of coco- tour packages and other
nut milk and spices. You can buy the curacha and Alavar sauce at the Saturday Salcedo Market, and you may
end up snatching up its other bottled seafood goodies too. 173 Don Alfaro Street, Tetuan, Zamboanga City, contact information.
(062) 991-2483 5 Hineleban Foundation and Tuminugan Farm, Manolo Fortich, Bukidnon Through its farm,
the Hineleban Foundation aims to help reforest Mindanao and provide a sustainable source of livelihood Available at National
for the Lumads and the Bangsamoro. The foundation grows premium Arabica coffee, heirloom adlai grains,
organic turmeric (in capsule form) and Tuminugan 100% raw honey, available at its just-opened Hinelaban Bookstore
Café in Makati. 830 A. Arnaiz Street, Makati City, store.hineleban.org

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 73


Probinsya Picks
1
Balangay’s Best Darling who named it after her merienda and be sure to coffee without shelling out
Danggit This brand late grandfather, Senator take home any of Sonny’s big bucks at overpriced
aims “to build a social Hermenegildo Villanueva. bottled treats—especially his cafés, plus you get to support
platform to connect our The bulad is becoming signature leche flan-ube for ethnic communities in the
fishing communities, our such a popular pasalubong a double dose of decadence. Cordilleras. A win-win
customers and our partners that it now provides work Or else get the huevos or fish situation. Available in six
while creating a culture for 18 housewives in roe in oro, negra and picante varieties and blends, www.
that will not leave our Bidoy, Negros Oriental. blanca variants, among other figuresofbeans.com, Facebook:
fishermen, their families and (0917) 541-3417, Facebook: delights. Silang, Cavite, fob_coffee
our environment behind.” HermenegildoBulad (046) 686-1048

11
The company works with Southern Folk Cacao

5 8
fishing communities in The Cracking Pinkie’s Farm Yes, we know hot
Cebu, Mindoro, Negros Monkey These are Kesong Puti From a tsokolate is not top of
Oriental and Surigao del Sur pili nuts from Bicol family farm in Lipa, mind in this summer heat,
to produce dried seafood like you’ve never had them Batangas comes this fresh, but this organic tablea is just
products wittily named before! They’re completely pure kesong puti using only too good to ignore. There are
Darling Danggit, Papa Pusit natural, and have not been all-natural milk from grass- no extenders or thickeners,
and Baby Bangsi. Good for roasted nor have they fed cows. Creamy with a so all you get is genuine
the planet, good for the undergone any kind of touch of saltiness, this soft cacao flavor. Add a little
fisherfolk, and delicious chemical processing. These white cheese is perfect on peanut butter to get that
too! Available in Echostore nuts are best consumed after toast or tossed into a salad. thick consistency. Or serve it
branches and select retail pre-sprouting and eaten Pinkie’s Farm also offers as a nightcap over ice to cool
outlets, balangaysbest.com straight out of the shell. premium fresh cow’s milk you down just before bed.
It’s fun to use the included and yogurt in glass bottles Facebook and Instagram:

2
Memz Premium patented notch and lever (because they taste better), SouthernFolkPH
Pork Chicharon system to crack the shell frozen yogurt and butter.

12
Unlike other chicharon yourself. Available at SM pinkiesfarm.com Aro-En Gourmet
purveyors, Memz does Kultura branches, www. Salts From

9
not boil or dehydrate their thecrackingmonkey.com Hiraya Bakery Pangasinan where
pork. Rather, to preserve its Alfajores and Buko the country’s salt-making

6
natural flavors, they render Tigre y Oliva Pie This Laguna- industry had its beginnings,
it in the pork fat itself. Bite- Chocolate Ranging based bakery sets itself apart comes this line of gourmet
sized, crunchy and utterly from 70 to 77% pure by highlighting local and artisan salts—a veritable
delicious, with nary a trace cacao, these handcrafted sometimes hard-to-source cook’s feast of flavoring
of oiliness or lansa, it’s also bean-to-bar single origin ingredients in season like and finishing salts specially
beautifully packaged in dark chocolate bars are by sampinit (wild raspberry), created to enhance any dish,
FDA-grade aluminum foil Simone Mastrota, an Italian uraro flour (arrowroot), including desserts. Among
to protect the chicharon chocolatier expat based lipote and bignay fruit. We Aro-En’s many variants, try
from air and moisture. www. in Surftown, La Union. love Hiraya’s alfajores, the premium Fleur de Sel,
memzchicharon.com Made with only cacao and buttery shortbread cookies clean and delicate Mineral
sugar, each chocolate bar sandwiching a generous layer Sea Salt, briny and earthy Sel

3
Proudly Promdi is named after the farm or of dulce de leche, available in Gris, citrusy Calamansi Salt,
Tapuey This artisanal area from which the cacao Salted and Chocolate flavors. spicy Chili Salt or Smoked
from Ilocos is perfect beans have been ethically Another favorite is Hiraya’s Salt. (02) 371-4304, www.
chilled or on the rocks, and sustainably sourced: take on a classic—Buko- aro-engourmetsalt.com
with a slice of dayap on Santo Tomas Farm in Lemongrass Latik Crumble

13
the side. Or make our Davao del Norte, Subasta Pie with generous strips Vinegars by Ritual
favorite cocktail, a tapuey in Davao City, Santa Maria of buko layered with rich We recommend
negroni: a dash each of gin in Davao Occidental. lemongrass custard cream you try any of
and Campari, and slosh a Facebook and Instagram: topped with a latik streusel. these three local vinegars to
goodly amount of tapuey. TigreYOlivaChocolate (0915) 529-0250, hiraya2722@ experiment with the flavor
Pour into a rock glass over gmail.com, Facebook: Hiraya profiles of your adobo:

7
ice and add a twist of dayap. Asiong’s Leche Flan- Bakery sweet mulberry vinegar
Facebook and Instagram: Ube Cavite City’s from Talakag, Bukidnon

10
proudlypromdi pride and joy, Asiong’s, Figures of Beans (similar in taste to balsamic
recently moved to Silang, Coffee What’s vinegar), sour suka sa lubi

4
Hermenegildo transforming from a humble not to love about or coconut vinegar from
Gourmet Bulad carinderia to a destination FOB Coffee? It’s organic, Silago, Southern Leyte, and
Dried herring in restaurant famous for its sustainably-grown quality the uniquely piquant sukang
olive oil and vinegar with pansit pusit, pan de troso coffee from the Cordilleras. Iloko or sugar cane vinegar
garlic and olives, this is with quesillo, and of course, The packaging is cool and from Laoag, Ilocos Norte.
made using an old family its owner Sonny Lua. Drop they deliver right to your 926 Arnaiz Avenue, Makati
recipe of Ikay Villanueva, by for breakfast, lunch or door. You can get excellent City, (02) 734-5486, www.
ritualph.myshopify.com

74 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 75
Krispy Kare-kare salt and pepper, to taste paper towels to remove desiccated coconut. Serve
Serves 3 to 4 2 tablespoons soy sauce excess oil. with peanut butter sauce
2 tablespoons mayonnaise 4. Transfer turon to a serving and chocolate labuyo sauce
200 grams bagnet, cut into 2 tablespoons cooking plate and sprinkle with for dipping.
serving pieces cream
cooking oil, for deep frying 2 tablespoons vinegar
1 bunch bok choy, washed 2 teaspoons margarine 7107 Culture + Cuisine is
1/2 cup French beans, 1 egg #NotYourAverageLocal
washed 2 tablespoons chopped red This is not your usual Filipino restaurant. Named after
1 eggplant, cut in half 2 onion the Philippines’ 7,107 islands, this culinary and hospi-
inches long 1 siling labuyo tality “food hall” acts as an advocacy for “the discovery,
1 siling labuyo (bird’s eye  JUHHQ ˉQJHU FKLOLVOLFHG appreciation and promotion of the country’s local
chili) 1 calamansi culture and heritage.” The restaurant has four distinct
1/4 cup bagoong guisado food sections that showcase the diversity of our food:
1. In a clean sauté pan, heat Kanto for street food, Dampa for seaside dining, Talyasi
1. In a deep pan or fryer, heat oil and sauté garlic and for cooking in a pot, and Himagas for dessert. And it’s
oil and fry bagnet until crisp. ginger until light brown. not just the food. The walls are painted with colorful
Drain on paper towels to 2. Add fried pork belly and GHSLFWLRQV RI ORFDO ˊRUD DQG IDXQD E\ LOOXVWUDWRU 'DU\O
remove excess oil. Set aside. chicken liver. Season with salt Feril. The Sari Sari Corner sells local goods like salted
2. In a casserole with water, and pepper. Sauté until crisp. egg chips and chocolate, as well as local crafts. A sepa-
blanch all vegetables and 3. Add soy sauce, rate meeting room is available for private functions.
set aside. mayonnaise, cooking cream Located at Treston International College, 7107 also
3. In a saucepan, heat and vinegar. provides hospitality and culinary students with real-life,
peanut butter sauce (recipe 4. Heat a sizzling plate and industry-based training. G/F Treston International College,
below) and add blanched brush with margarine. University Parkway District, 32nd Street corner C5 Road,
vegetables. 5. Transfer the sautéed sisig Bonifacio Global City, www.7107restaurant.ph
4. In a serving platter, to the sizzling plate. Top with
arrange cooked bagnet skin a fresh egg.
side up. Place vegetables in 6. Garnish with onions,
peanut sauce beside bagnet. siling labuyo ˉQJHU FKLOL DQG
5. Garnish with siling labuyo. calamansi. Serve while still
Serve with bagoong guisado hot.
on the side.
Chocnut Turon
PE A N U T BU T TE R SAU CE Serves 6
(Makes about 1 1/2 cups):
2 tablespoons annatto oil 6 saba bananas, peeled and
1 onion, chopped quartered
2 cloves garlic, minced  PHGLXPVL]HG lumpia
1 tablespoon toasted rice wrappers
ˊRXU 1/4 cup crushed Chocnut
1/2 cup pork broth candies
1 cup peanut butter 1/2 cup muscovado sugar
salt and pepper, to taste cooking oil, for deep frying
2 tablespoons desiccated
In a pot, heat annatto oil coconut, roasted
and saute onion and garlic. 2 tablespoons bottled
$GG WRDVWHG ULFH ˊRXU $GG peanut butter
pork broth and peanut 2 tablespoons melted dark
butter. Season with salt and chocolate, mixed with
pepper. Boil, then lower heat fresh siling labuyo extract
and simmer for 8 minutes
until sauce thickens slightly. 1. Place banana in the
center of a lumpia wrapper.
7107 Sisig Sprinkle with crushed
Serves 2 Chocnut. Roll lumpia
wrapper and seal edges with
2 tablespoons cooking oil ZDWHU WR FORVH PHOTO CREDITS Annie Bea Carinderia by LIMUEL DAYRIT; bordado
2 teaspoons minced garlic 2. Roll wrapped bananas in by SONNY YABAO; Coco Spice Adventures courtesy of FOOD
2 teaspoons minced ginger sugar and set aside. HOLIDAYS; suman sa palaspas by CLAUDE TAYAG; Halo-halo sa
Carwash by PIA PUNO; Aling Belen’s longanisa by ANGELO
300 grams pork belly, fried 3. Heat oil in a deep fryer COMSTI; Irene’s Vigan Empanada by Pia Puno; Maridel’s by IGE
and cut into small cubes or pan. Drop turon one by RAMOS; Royal Suites Inn by JM ABREGANA; salukara by CESAR
CAINA; Cheesecakes from Lachi’s by PIA PUNO; Kermit Surf Shop
2/3 cup chopped chicken one and cook until golden by PAT MATEO; Vjandep Pastel by CLAUDE TAYAG; Alavar’s by PIA
liver in color and crisp. Drain on PUNO; Tuminugan Farm courtesy of HINELEBAN FOUNDATION

76 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO | Styling by NANCY DIZON - EDRALIN

Tap into seaweed’s nutritional power


Over 10,000 species of seaweed—like the widely-used kelp
and spirulina—grow in tropical and cold waters alike. These
sea greens are rich in minerals like copper, calcium, iodine
and iron, as well as in protein, vitamins and fiber, especially
vitamin K and folic acid. Low in calories and fat, seaweed
doesn’t have to be strictly “diet” food. Thanks to its high
glutamate content, it has loads of umami flavor. For example,
kombu or dried kelp is added to dashi stock, essential to
Japanese cuisine. If you can’t find fresh seaweed, like our local
guso and lato (pictured, lower left and right, respectively), at
your local wet market, then simply pick up some dried nori
sheets (upper left) at any major supermarket or Japanese
grocery. Use them to make our healthy seaweed recipes on
page 88.

FOOD |2017 Issue 2


HOME BASICS | light & right

Super Seaweed
Your vegetables don’t
have to come from the
soil. Sea greens can
bring a fresh and salty
dose of mineral-packed
nutrition to your meal

Recipes and styling by N A NC Y DIZON - EDR A LIN


Photography by PAU L DE L ROSA RIO

W
hile the
Japanese and
Koreans have
made seaweed,
especially the
dried variety, a daily part of
their diets, Filipinos aren’t
quite as familiar with this
abundant, sustainable sea
“vegetable” (actually algae).
In coastal provinces, fresh
seaweed is readily available,
but it’s usually only eaten
fresh like a salad or kinilaw,
simply dipped into vinegar.
But seaweed can be a lot
more versatile. Light in
flavor but packed with
good-for-you minerals and
antioxidants, this superfood
can be snuck into one’s daily
meals in a variety of novel
ways, like Chef Nancy’s
original seaweed recipes
featured here.

Fresh sea grapes for dipping BA L SA MIC G L A Z E (makes 1 cup):


Looking like small grapes, lato can be Sea Grapes Salad 1 cup balsamic vinegar
found in wet markets like Farmer’s Market Serves 2 to 4 1 tablespoon white sugar
in Cubao, and are available in different
sizes. Make sure to use lato on the same 1/4 kilo lato (sea grapes) 1. In a small saucepan, combine
day you buy it because this fresh seaweed 200 grams baby spinach balsamic vinegar with sugar.
wilts easily. Don’t keep it in the fridge 1 red onion, sliced Stir constantly until sugar has
where it will just get soggy. Wash it only 1 tomato, sliced GLVVROYHGb
when you’re ready to serve it. Chef Nancy 200 grams feta cheese, cubed 2. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and
advises using the balsamic glaze like a simmer until glaze is reduced by
dipping sauce instead of as a dressing. Combine ingredients on a plate. half. Glaze should coat the back of
When tossed with salad dressing, lato Drizzle with balsamic glaze (recipe DVSRRQ6HWDVLGHDQGOHWFRROb
usually becomes soft and soggy. below).

80 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


2 eggs, beaten GLVVROYHV /HW LW FRRO WKHQ glaze (recipe below) and
Nori Rice Balls  FXS ˉQH EUHDGFUXPEV add to the cooked rice. Japanese mayonnaise.
Serves 4 to 6  FXS FDQROD RLO IRU IU\LQJ 3. Mix the nori and black *DUQLVK ZLWK VSULQJ RQLRQVb
sesame seeds into the rice.
1 cup Japanese rice, Japanese mayonnaise Divide the rice into 12 MISO -SOY G L A Z E:
uncooked 2 stalks spring onions, portions. Shape the rice into 1/2 cup sweet soy sauce
1 1/4 cups water chopped, for garnish EDOOV 2 teaspoons miso
1/4 cup rice vinegar 4. Dust each rice ball 1 tablespoon honey
1/8 cup white sugar 1. Rinse and cook the rice ZLWK ˊRXU GLS LQ WKH HJJ
1/2 teaspoon salt with water in a rice cooker. mixture, then cover with In a small saucepan, combine
 FXS FKRSSHG QRUL Transfer to a bowl and set breadcrumbs. all the ingredients. Simmer
1 tablespoon black sesame DVLGH 5. Heat a frying pan over until mixture thickens,
seeds 2. In a small saucepan, medium heat. Fry the rice approximately 3 to 5
combine rice vinegar, sugar balls until golden brown. minutes. Do not overcook.b
FXSDOOSXUSRVHˊRXU and salt. Cook until the sugar 6.'UL]]OHZLWKbPLVRVR\

Go ahead, have a ball


These rice balls are a great way to pack protein-rich nori (dried
edible seaweed) into one handy bundle. A Japanese staple used
mainly for sushi and onigiri, nori can also be enjoyed as a healthy
snack or used to garnish soups or salads. With chopped nori
“hidden” in the rice balls, even your vegetable-averse kids will
HQMR\ WKHP <RX FDQ WU\ RWKHU -DSDQHVH ˉOOLQJV OLNH kani, uni or
unagi WR ˊDYRU WKH ULFH EDOOV ,I \RX GRQȠW KDYH WLPH WR IU\ WKHP \RX
FDQ VHUYH WKH ˊDYRUHG ULFH DV LV ZLWKRXW WKH EUHDGFUXPE FRDWLQJ
formed into any shape you want or simply served in a bowl.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 81


HOME BASICS | light & right

Seaweed Tempura 1. Prepare ice and water in a JHQWO\ PL[ 'R QRW RYHUPL[ towel to drain excess oil.
Serves 2 to 4 bowl. Wash the guso. batter as you will get a lot of 8. Serve with wasabi mayo
2. Boil water in a pot and gluten which makes it heavy, UHFLSH EHORZ 
1/4 kilo guso (seaweed), add washed guso. Let it cook resulting in an un-crispy
washed for 5 to 8 minutes. Remove tempura batter. WA SA BI M AYO PDNHV  FXS 
the seaweed and transfer 5. Dust seaweed with 1 tablespoon wasabi powder
T E M PU R A BAT T E R: to a bowl of ice water to cornstarch then dip it into 2 tablespoons water
 FXS DOOSXUSRVH ˊRXU stop the cooking. Remove WKH WHPSXUD EDWWHU 1 cup Japanese mayonnaise
1 tablespoon cornstarch, VHDZHHG DQG GU\ WKRURXJKO\ 6. In a deep fryer, heat the
plus extra for dusting 3. To prepare the tempura vegetable oil. Deep-fry the In a bowl, combine wasabi
1 teaspoon baking soda EDWWHU VLIW WRJHWKHU ˊRXU seaweed until golden brown, powder and water to form a
1/4 teaspoon salt cornstarch, baking soda, salt about 2 minutes. Do not paste. Let sit for 1 minute,
1/2 teaspoon ground and black pepper. overcook the seaweed as it then add mayonnaise. Mix
black pepper 4. In a bowl, beat the can become soggy. ZHOOb
1 egg HJJ $GG FROG ZDWHU DQG 7. Transfer cooked seaweed
1 cup cold water PL[ $GG WKH ˊRXU PL[WXUH tempura to a wire rack or
1 cup vegetable oil to the egg mixture and a plate lined with a paper

A different kind of tempura


Who would have thought you could deep-fry
seaweed and serve it like tempura? Chef Nancy uses
guso, a gelatinous seaweed that looks like green
thorns or tree branches. She advises blanching
the guso ˉUVW WR DFKLHYH WKH ULJKW FUXQFK 0DNH
sure to drain the tempura well over paper towels
and serve immediately to retain its crispiness.

82 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


HOME BASICS | simply desserts

Dessert,
Pinoy-style You’ll have fun making these tasty variations
of traditional Filipino desserts. We tweaked the
recipes using local ingredients like ube, coco
jam and mangoes to show you how versatile
and interesting they can be. Enjoy!
Recipes and food styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SE V ILL A
Photography by PAU LO VA L E N ZU E L A

Tropical Polvoron RYHU PHGLXP KLJK KHDW


Serves 6 to 8 VWLUULQJ FRQWLQXRXVO\ XQWLO LW
WXUQV EHLJH
1 1/2 cups powdered milk 2.$GG WKH VXJDU DQG PL[ WR
  FXSV DOOSXUSRVH ˊRXU combine. Remove from the
1/2 cup desiccated coconut heat. 6ZHHW DQG FUXPEO\
1 cup sugar 3.Add the dried mangoes. This is perfect as a DIY project with the kids
 FXS ˉQHO\ FKRSSHG GULHG Toss to combine. RQ VXPPHU DIWHUQRRQV <RX FDQ XVH RWKHU
mangoes 4.$GG WKH PHOWHG EXWWHU DQG GULHG WURSLFDO IUXLWV LQVWHDG RI PDQJRHV
1 cup melted butter PL[ XQWLO HYHQO\ GLVWULEXWHG For a healthier take, replace part of the
5.Press into oval shapes VXJDU ZLWK FRFRQXW VXJDU 7R JHW D VWXUGLHU
1.Combine powdered milk, XVLQJ D polvoron mold. polvoron, place the molded pieces on a lined
ˊRXU DQG GHVLFFDWHG FRFRQXW Wrap in colored paper or VKHHW SDQ DQG EDNH IRU  WR  PLQXWHV &RRO
LQDSDQ7RDVWWKHPL[WXUH cellophane. WKHSLHFHVEHIRUHZUDSSLQJLQGLYLGXDOO\

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 83


HOME BASICS | simply desserts

La Bulakeña Turon
Serves 6

6 saba bananas, almost


overripe, cut in
KDOI OHQJWKZLVH
1 cup pastillas de
leche strips
12 spring roll wrappers
2 cups cooking oil

1.Place each banana piece


on a spring roll wrapper,
then top with a strip of
pastillas. Fold and lock the
spring roll wrapper. Seal the
edges with water. Repeat for
each banana piece.
2. Heat oil in a pan to 375°F.
Fry the wrapped bananas
XQWLO WKH ZUDSSHUVWXUQ
golden brown.

'HHSIULHG DQG ˊDYRUIXO


)RU D IXQ YDULDWLRQ XVH ˊDYRUHG pastillas or
VXEVWLWXWH ZLWK ube jam or coco jam. This is
perfect for dessert or merienda served hot with
vanilla, chocolate or mantecado ice cream.

84 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


6WURQJ ORFDO ˊDYRUV Ube Palitaw
To achieve the best taste, Serves 6
there’s nothing like adding
IUHVKO\ JUDWHG FRFRQXW 1/3 cup muscovado sugar
DOWKRXJK \RX FDQ DOVR 3/4 cup sweetened
XVH GHVVLFDWHG FRFRQXW LQ FRFRQXW ˊDNHV RU
packs. Experiment with IUHVKO\ JUDWHG FRFRQXW
RWKHU ˊDYRUVOLNH buko 2 tablespoons toasted
pandan. sesame seeds
1 1/2 cups glutinous
ULFH ˊRXU
1/2 cup ube liquid
ˊDYRULQJ SUHIHUDEO\
Flavacol brand

1.&RPELQH VXJDU FRFRQXW


ˊDNHV RU JUDWHG FRFRQXW
and sesame seeds in
a bowl. Set aside.
2.&RPELQH JOXWLQRXV ˊRXU
and ube ˊDYRULQJ 0L[
XQWLO GRXJK LV IRUPHG
3.6KDSH D WDEOHVSRRQIXO
RI GRXJK LQWR D EDOO
WKHQ ˊDWWHQ WKH PLGGOH
ZLWK \RXU WKXPE
4.Boil water in a pot. Drop
WKH ˊDWWHQHG EDOOV RI GRXJK
LQ WKH ZDWHU :DLW XQWLO WKH
EDOOV VWDUWV WR ˊRDW )LVK
RXW DQG OHW FRRO XQWLO LW
UHDFKHV URRP WHPSHUDWXUH
5.&RDW WKH FRROHG GRXJK
ZLWK WKH FRFRQXWVHVDPH
VHHGVPL[WXUH6HUYH

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 85


HOME BASICS | cooking class

WHAT’S OLD
IS NEW AGAIN How to be playful in the kitchen, the right way
By TROY BA RRIOS
Recipes by G E N E GON Z A L E Z
Photography by PAU LO VA L E N ZU E L A

T
aking two classic recipes, Chef
Gene Gonzalez shows us how
ingredient and technique can
transform a dish. Adobo del
Diablo is an heirloom recipe
from his hometown in Sulipan,
Pampanga. Vichyssoise is traditionally
a cold soup made with potatoes and
leeks, which he localizes by substituting
ube for the potatoes. Chef Gene, who
was the opening speaker at this year’s
Madrid Fusión Manila, says the creative
cook must first understand the dish and
the techniques he will be using. Then go 5 Strain the
mixture to
get a smooth
ahead and have fun.

4 Pour the ube


mixture into
a blender or
consistency.
Whisk in cream
and season to
Ube Vichyssoise
Serves 8 food processor taste. Chill until
and purée. very cold.
1 1/4 kilos sliced ube, or substitute
with sweet potato or squash
1 cup beets
12 cups chicken stock or chicken broth
with pandan
4 medium leeks, trimmed and sliced
1 cup sliced onion
3 bay leaves
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
salt, to taste
2 cups heavy cream
 WDEOHVSRRQV ˉQHO\ FKRSSHG FKLYHV

1 Peel the ube and the beets. Cut into


small pieces.

2 In a large stockpot, heat the ube


in chicken stock. Add all the other
ingredients except the cream and
chives. Boil until the ube is tender. 7 To decorate,
swirl cream

6 Serve on the surface

3 Reduce heat and simmer for another vichyssoise and create a


15 minutes. Remove the bay leaves. in half a pattern with a
Let cool to room temperature. coconut shell. knife.

86 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Hot and cold soup
Temperature makes
an enormous
difference in this
recipe. Served cold,
this ube leek soup
is a vichyssoise. It
should be smooth
and creamy, and
perfect for hot
summer days.
Served warm, it is
a parmentier-style.
Though still silky, it’s
rather more rustic
and can be a little
chunky.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 87


HOME BASICS | cooking class

Heirloom adobo
Called Adobo del
Diablo because it’s
so good it must
have “come from the
Devil,” the secret
to this dish is in the
XVHRIˉVKVDXFH
Deglazing and natural
caramelization give
it a beautiful golden
brown color and
ULFKXPDPLˊDYRU
In Sulipan, Chef
Gene’s hometown in
Pampanga, soy sauce
is not an acceptable
substitute for the
ˉVKVDXFHDQGWKH
hapless cook who
uses soy sauce will be
the subject of town
gossip.

88 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Adobo del Diablo
Serves 4

2 tablespoons minced garlic


2 tablespoons corn oil
1 1/2 cups pork, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 1/2 cups cubed chicken
1/2 cup chicken heart
1/2 cup beef liver, cut into 1/4-inch
cubes
1/2 cup pork kidney, cut into 1-inch
cubes
1/2 cup chicken giblets, cleaned
1/4 cup chicken blood, cut into 1-inch
cubes
2 cups chicken stock
1/3 cup vinegar 2 In a cast iron pan or skillet, sauté
garlic in corn oil until slightly
brown. Add pork cubes, chicken,
1/2 tablespoon cracked black pepper
3/4 tablespoon salt
 WDEOHVSRRQV ˉVK VDXFH 1 The basic ingredients of this
adobo are chicken and pork cubes,
JDUOLF YLQHJDU DQG ˉVK VDXFH $GG
chicken heart, beef liver, pork kidney,
beef liver, pork kidney, chicken
giblets and chicken blood. Add stock,
3 tablespoons pork lard
chicken heart, beef liver, chicken YLQHJDU SHSSHU VDOW DQG ˉVK VDXFH
giblets if you desire, or omit them Braise by lightly stewing in a closed
entirely. pan with a little liquid.
CHEF GENE GONZ ALEZ is the
founder of Café Ysabel and of the
Center for Asian Culinary Studies.
As a chef, he is a pioneer in
Manila’s gastronomic landscape,
and has written a number of
LQˊXHQWLDO FRRNERRNV +LV
iconic restaurant, Café Ysabel,
opened 24 years ago as a little
neighborhood restaurant along
Wilson Street in Greenhills,
San Juan. It became a byword
for affordable, quality cuisine
and is consistenly mentioned
as a cultural landmark in 3 Take out chicken giblets and heart.
Add chicken stock to the pan, then
deglaze the chicken and pork cubes.
4 After the third deglazing, the
chicken and pork should be
golden brown in color. When the
international guidebooks. This
is why we are sadly bidding Do this 3 times. chicken and pork are tender and
farewell to Café Ysabel, which sauce turns brown, add the other
closes its doors in May 2017. meats, if desired.
We eagerly look forward to its
reopening in a new location later
this year. Good luck, Chef Gene!

5 Simmer the sauce for 15 minutes


then separate meat from the
sauce. Set the sauce aside.
6 Fry meat in pork lard until brown
and lightly crusty. Serve with
sauce on the side.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 89


HOME BASICS | D.I.Y.

EASY PICKLINGS
There’s a world of fruits and veggies you can use to make pickles or atchara .
Deliciously crisp and a snap to make, they’ll pair perfectly with grilled meats
Text, recipes and styling by TIN A CONCE P CION DIA Z
Photography by PAU LO VA L E N ZU E L A

Pickling Juice 1. In a non-reactive pot Red Radish Atchara Cucumber Atchara


Makes about 4 cups (stainless steel or stove- Makes 2 large jars Makes about 1 large jar
top glass pot), combine all
2 cups vinegar (cane, apple ingredients and bring to a 1/2 kilo red radish, sliced 4 pieces Korean cucumber,
cider, white wine or rice boil over medium heat. into halves or thin rounds halved and sliced about 3
wine) 2. Lower heat and let 1/4 kilo shallots, halved to 4 inches long
1 cup water simmer for 5 minutes. 1 recipe pickling juice, 1 recipe pickling juice, using
1 1/3 cups sugar While still hot, immediately using cane vinegar, red apple cider vinegar, pink
2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons pour over sliced fruit or peppercorns, fresh thyme peppercorns, mustard
coarse sea salt vegetables (see recipes seeds
whole spices (peppercorns, below). Pack sliced radish and
mustard seeds or shallots into jars. Prepare Pack sliced cucumber into
cinnamon sticks) COOK’S NOTE: If using pickling liquid and pour jars. Make pickling juice
fresh herbs with stalks white wine vinegar, use full while hot over vegetables and pour over cucumbers
(thyme, oregano or strength. Omit water and use until submerged. Cover and until submerged. Cover
3 cups white wine vinegar
rosemary) instead.
allow to cool completely and cool completely before
before tightening the lid. tightening the lid and
Pair with grilled or steamed refrigerating. Try it with
The alchemy of pickling seafood. grilled pork or chicken!
The pickling liquid creates the magic
that transforms your fruits and
veggies into the sweet, savory side
dish you can’t have enough of. It also
serves the dual purpose of preserving
them. All the pickles featured here can
last up to a month in the refrigerator.

90 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Pickled 2. Prepare pickling juice. 1 large red onion, halved Red Cabbage Atchara
Watermelon Rind Pour right away after and thinly sliced Makes about 1 large jar
Makes about 2 large jars boiling to submerge the 1 recipe pickling liquid,
rinds. Cover and allow to using cane or apple cider 1 medium red cabbage,
1/4 watermelon cool completely before vinegar, red peppercorns, shredded
1 recipe pickling liquid, tightening the lid. This is UHG SHSSHU ˊDNHV 1/4 cup rock salt
using apple cider vinegar, perfect with barbecued half recipe pickling juice,
black peppercorns meats. In a bowl, toss corn, bell using white rice wine,
peppers and onion. Pack black peppercorns
1. Cut watermelon into Pickled Corn Relish into jars. Prepare pickling
ZHGJHV 6OLFH RII ˊHVK DQG Makes about 2 large jars juice. Pour into jars while 1. In a bowl, toss cabbage
reserve for eating. Leave a hot to submerge the and salt to combine and
thin layer of red on the rind 3 ears yellow corn, boiled vegetables. Cover and allow let sit for an hour. Rinse
for color. With a vegetable and sliced off the cob to cool completely before thoroughly and drain well.
peeler, remove outer skin 3 medium red bell peppers, tightening the lids. Pair with 2. Spread on a tray lined
from the rind and cut into diced JULOOHGRUIULHGˉVK with paper napkins, and blot
chunky pieces, about 1/2 to 3 medium green bell out moisture with additional
1-inch thick. Pack into jars. peppers, diced paper napkins.
3. Pack cabbage into jars.
Prepare pickling juice and
pour over cabbage while
hot. Cover and allow to
cool completely before
tightening the lid. It’s good
with burgers and sausages.

It’s the spices


that make it
Choose spices that
complement your chosen
fruit or vegetable.
Remember to pick whole
spices and sturdy fresh
herbs so they remain
visible in the pickling
liquid. Powdered spices
tend to cloud the liquid and
lessen its visual appeal.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 91


HOME BASICS | D.I.Y.

Jammin’ jars Pickled Bell Peppers Pickled Apples Pickled Finger Chilies
To prepare your pickling Makes 2 large jars Makes about 1 large jar Makes about 1 large jar
jars, wash them well and
pour hot water in them 2 medium red bell peppers, 3 Granny Smith apples,  NLOR JUHHQ ˉQJHU FKLOLHV
IRU D ˉQDO ULQVH VR \RX FDQ seeded, sliced into thin cored, halved and sliced 1 recipe pickling juice, using
prolong the life of your rounds into wedges cane or apple cider
pickles. Once you’re done 2 medium green bell 1 recipe pickling liquid, vinegar, black
making your pickles and peppers, seeded, sliced using white wine vinegar, peppercorns, mustard
cooling them completely, into thin rounds red peppercorns, seeds
refrigerate your jars and 2 medium red onions, halved cinnamon sticks, fresh
you’re ready to pair them and sliced thinly oregano 1. To remove the seeds
with all your meals. 1 recipe pickling liquid, of the chilies, make a
using apple cider vinegar, Pack apple slices into jars. horizontal slit under the
black peppercorns, Make pickling juice and pour stalk and cut straight down
mustard seeds while hot over the apples. the length of one side of
Cover and cool completely the chili. Under running
Pack vegetables into before tightening the lid. water, pull out the seeds
jars. Prepare pickling It’s the perfect complement and membrane. Do the same
juice and while hot, pour to roasted pork and seared ZLWK WKH UHVW RI WKH ˉQJHU
over vegetables until pork steak. chilies.
submerged. Cover and allow 2. Drain well and pack
to cool completely before chilies into jars. Prepare
tightening the lids. Pair it pickling juice. Pour while
with fried chicken or any hot into jars to submerge
kind of meat barbeque. the chilies. Cover and
allow to cool completely
before tightening the lid.
It’s fantastic with grilled
seafood!

92 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


HOME BASICS | 30 minutes or less

RICE Chorizo Brown Rice


with Mushroom and
Three-Bell Pepper Fry
Serves 4
bowl. Top with mushroom
and three-bell pepper fry
(recipe below).

BOWLS JUDPVFKRUL]RPLQFHG
WHDVSRRQVROLYHRLOb
WHDVSRRQVPLQFHGJDUOLF
M USH ROOM A N D TH RE E -
BE LL PE PPE R FRY:
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WDEOHVSRRQV

ON THE FXSVVWHDPHGEURZQULFH
WDEOHVSRRQV
FKLFNHQVWRFN
WDEOHVSRRQVEXWWHUb
FKRSSHGJDUOLF
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FXSIUHVKRUGULHG
VKLLWDNHPXVKURRPV

RUN VDOWDQGSHSSHUWRWDVWH
WDEOHVSRRQˉQHO\
FKRSSHGVSULQJRQLRQV

1. Allow chorizo to render


VOLFHG
FXSUHGJUHHQDQG
\HOORZEHOOSHSSHUVVOLFHG
WDEOHVSRRQVFKLFNHQVWRFN
WDEOHVSRRQVEXWWHUb
The ultimate fast food, LWVIDWLQDSDQb VDOWDQGSHSSHUWRWDVWH
these delicious rice recipes 2. Add olive oil. Sweat
are as convenient to cook minced garlic until
WUDQVOXFHQWb
1. Heat olive oil. Sweat
JDUOLFDQGFDUDZD\VHHGVb
as they are to eat 3. Add brown rice and mix 2. Add shiitake mushrooms
ZHOO$GGFKLFNHQVWRFNb and bell peppers and
Recipes by MICHELLE ADRILLANA | Photography by PAUL DEL
4. Add butter and season to FRQWLQXHVWLUIU\LQJb
ROSARIO | Styling by NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN
taste with salt and pepper. 3. Add chicken stock and

Y
Add spring onions and mix bring to a simmer. Add
ou’re in a hurry. You may have half an hour to cook ZHOOb butter and season to taste
a full meal, but then you have even less time to wolf 5. Transfer chorizo rice to a ZLWKVDOWDQGSHSSHUb
it all down. Rice bowls are the solution—they pack
rice, meat, veggies in one convenient container for
you to enjoy, whether you’re sitting at the dinner
table, standing at the kitchen counter, or eating from your
desk. Chef Michelle Adrillana shows us how to pack on the
flavor with minimal fuss in three creative rice bowl recipes.
Start with leftover cooked rice, then feel free to add, omit
or substitute meat or veggie toppings depending on what’s
available in your pantry and how much time you have to whip
up these dishes. Just don’t sacrifice the flavor!

Rice with
/DWLQˊDLU
This Chorizo Rice with
Mushroom and Three-
Bell Pepper Fry is
packed with nutritious
YHJHWDEOHVDQGˉEHU
rich brown rice. It’s
colorful too, thanks
to the yellow, red and
green bell peppers,
with the caraway seeds
imparting a slight anise-
OLNHQXWW\ˊDYRUDQG
aroma. Just make sure
not to overcook the bell
SHSSHUV7RˊDYRUWKH
rice, longanisa works just
as well as chorizo.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 93


Spicy Sesame Rice with chopped leek.
Grilled Miso-glazed Cod 3. Transfer rice to a bowl. Top -DSDQHVHˊDYRUVLQIRFXV
Serves 2 with miso-glazed cod (recipe Chef Michelle celebrates Filipinos’ love affair with
below). Japanese food with her spicy take on a Japanese
FRUQRLOIRUVDXW«LQJ VWDSOHRIˉVKDQGULFH,I\RXȠUHVHQVLWLYHWRVSLFH
WDEOHVSRRQV MISO - G L A Z E D COD: you can lessen or even omit the togarashi. Most of
FKRSSHGJLQJHUb FXSPLVRSDVWHb the Japanese ingredients in this recipe can be found
FXSVVWHDPHG WDEOHVSRRQV in any major supermarket or specialty Japanese
EURZQULFH FKRSSHGJLQJHU JURFHU\,I\RXFDQȠWˉQGFRG\RXFDQVXEVWLWXWH
WHDVSRRQVVHVDPHRLO WHDVSRRQVVHVDPHRLOb with grouper or snapper instead. And for a touch of
WHDVSRRQtogarashi WDEOHVSRRQV green, why not top this rice bowl with blanched and
-DSDQHVHVSLFHSRZGHU b PLQFHGJDUOLFb shelled edamame?
VDOWWRWDVWH SHSSHUWRWDVWHb
WHDVSRRQhondashi WDEOHVSRRQVEURZQVXJDUb
-DSDQHVHVHDIRRGVWRFN WDEOHVSRRQVPLULQ
WHDVSRRQVEODFNDQGZKLWH JUDPVFRG
VHVDPHVHHGVb VWDONOHHNVOLFHG
VWDONRQLRQOHHNFKRSSHGb
1. Mix miso, ginger, sesame
1. Heat corn oil in a pan. Add oil, garlic, pepper, sugar
ginger and sauté. Add brown and mirin. Marinate cod in
rice and continue cooking. PL[WXUHb
2. Add sesame oil. Season 2. Preheat grill and brush
with togarashi, salt and with oil. Grill cod. Baste with
hondashi. Toss in black and marinade and cook until well
white sesame seeds. Add GRQH*DUQLVKZLWKOHHNVb

94 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


HOME BASICS | 30 minutes or less

Pinakbet Rice vinegar, bring to a simmer and reduce  FXS bok choy EODQFKHG
with Kare-kareng Gulay DFLGLW\ ˉVK VDXFH WR WDVWH
Serves 4 3. Add pumpkin and okra. Mix in sugar
DQG JUHHQ FKLOL ˉQJHUV 1. Heat vegetable oil in a pan. Sauté
 WDEOHVSRRQV YHJHWDEOH RLO 4. Toss in cooked brown rice. Season with onions, then garlic.
  WDEOHVSRRQV FKRSSHG UHG RQLRQV ˉVK VDXFH LI QHFHVVDU\ 2. $GG JOXWLQRXV ULFH ˊRXU DQG FRQWLQXH
 WHDVSRRQV PLQFHG JDUOLF 5. Transfer rice to a bowl. Top with sautéing. Mix well, then add stock and
  WDEOHVSRRQV PLQFHG JLQJHU chicken skin or chicharon. peanut butter. Bring to a simmer.
 FXS GLFHG WRPDWRHV 6. Serve with kare-kareng gulay (recipe 3. Mix in annatto oil, eggplant, banana
 WDEOHVSRRQV hibe GULHG VKULPS below) and bagoong on the side. heart, string beans and bok choy. Season
 WDEOHVSRRQV bagoong VKULPS SDVWH ZLWK ˉVK VDXFH
 WDEOHVSRRQV YLQHJDU K ARE - . $5(1* *8/ $<
 FXS GLFHG SXPSNLQ  WHDVSRRQV YHJHWDEOH RLO
 FXS GLFHG RNUD   WDEOHVSRRQV GLFHG RQLRQV 3LQR\YHJJLHVUXOH
 WDEOHVSRRQV EURZQ VXJDU  WHDVSRRQV PLQFHG JDUOLF For lovers of kare-kare and
 JUHHQ FKLOL ˉQJHUV   WDEOHVSRRQV URDVWHG JOXWLQRXV pinakbet, this recipe is for you,
 FXSV VWHDPHG EURZQ ULFH ULFH ˊRXU thanks to its generous dose of
ˉVK VDXFH WR WDVWH  FXS YHJHWDEOH RU FKLFNHQ VWRFN bagoongIRUGHHSHUˊDYRU&KHI
 JUDPV GHHSIULHG FKLFNHQ VNLQ RU  WDEOHVSRRQV SHDQXW EXWWHU Michelle suggests adding chicken
chicharon IRU WRSSLQJ ˉVK VDXFH WR WDVWH bucheron, pork chicharon or
 WDEOHVSRRQV DQQDWWR RLO bagnet on top for added crunch
1. Heat oil in a pan, sauté red onions and  FXS VOLFHG HJJSODQW and character. You can blanch the
garlic. Add ginger and continue sautéing.  FXS VOLFHG EDQDQD KHDUW EODQFKHG vegetables ahead of time in order
 Add tomatoes, hibe and bagoong. Add  FXS VOLFHG VWULQJ EHDQV EODQFKHG to quicken cooking time. If you
don’t have time to cook the kare-
kareng gulay separately, just add
more veggies like string beans
and eggplant to the pinakbet rice
for a fully satisfying Pinoy rice
meal.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 95


ALL AROUND OZAMIZ (Clockwise from top left): Misamis Occidental’s fresh seafood prepared very simply to bring
RXW LWV VXFFXOHQW VZHHW ˊDYRUV LV D SOHDVXUH WR LQGXOJH LQ Binangkal, a chewy deep-fried bread rolled in sesame
seeds, is the perfect merienda GXQNHG LQ VWURQJ EODFN FRIIHH PDGH IURP ORFDOO\ JURZQ EHDQV %ODFN ULFH suman is a
popular kakanin 7KH JXDUGKRXVH DW WKH ROG IRUW ZKHUH WKH 6SDQLDUGV XVHG WR NHHS JXQSRZGHU DQG ˉUHDUPV KDV
D WUDSGRRU WR DQ XQGHUJURXQG WXQQHO WKDW OHDGV WR WKH ZDWFKWRZHU RXWVLGH WKH ZDOOV 7KLV NLORPHWHU EDPERR
EULGJH FLUFOLQJ D PDQJURYH IRUHVW LV WKH RQO\ ZD\ WR UHDFK %DZEDZRQ ,VODQG 7KH ULYHWLQJ YLHZ IURP WKH 6KULQH RI
&KULVWWKH5HGHHPHULQ&DOX\DQ2YHUOHDIIUHVK lato or seaweed is an abundant and nutrition-packed ingredient

96 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


FOOD T OUR

In t he land of

A six-day visit to Ozamiz in Misamis Occidental gives an all-too-brief


glimpse of culinary and cultural treasures still waiting to be discovered
By TROY BARRIOS
Photography by EUGENE CONSTANTINO

B
arely two hours by plane from Manila, the city of Ozamiz
still felt like a world apart when I first stepped onto the
airport tarmac on a hot morning in March. This is the
capital of Misamis Occidental, a province in northern
Mindanao anchored to the west by Zamboanga del Sur
and del Norte. Conflict in Mindanao has often made travel to
this part of the country inadvisable, so that for many Manileños
like me, Ozamiz is uncharted territory. As a guest of Dine
Philippines and the local Department of Tourism, I was thrilled
to have the chance to meet local food artisans and discover the
native cuisine.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 97


FOOD TOUR

O
zamiz has a population
barely reaching 15,000
(for context, consider
that over 12 million
souls are jostling for
space in Manila). It was
first called Misamis, a name
derived from the Subanen
word kuyamis, a variety of
coconut. The Subanen were
tribespeople indigenous to
the Zamboanga peninsula
when the Spanish arrived
and built a sturdy stone fort
to guard against pirates from
Lanao. From this outpost,
the city grew to what it is
today. The little fort, called

colloquially the Cotta, and


more formally as the Fuerza
de La Nuestra Señora de la
Concepcion del Triunfo, still
stands today, looking across
Panguil Bay to the shadowy
shores of Lanao del Norte. It’s
one of the only two Spanish
colonial structures still
standing in Ozamiz.

In search of local flavor


From the fort, it’s just a few
minutes by car to the city
center where I took up my
search for Ozamiz’s food
treasures. Home cooking
is where you really find
the authentic cuisine of
a place, but if you’re a
stranger, the best place to
start is at Johann’s Cuisine.
This restaurant opened in PICNIC ON THE WATER $W 6DSDQJ 'DODJD \RX
2002 under Chef Johann FDQ UHQW ˊRDWLQJ FRWWDJHV DQG RUGHU PHDOV IURP
Dagandara and is already WKH VKRUH XVXDOO\ ˉVK VTXLG DQG VKULPS IUHVKO\
FDXJKW IURP WKH ULYHU E\ ER\V IURP WKH ˉVKLQJ
a landmark—everyone in YLOODJH )UHVK VHDZHHG VDODG KRW ULFH DQG ERLOHG
Ozamiz can point out its sweet potatoes make for an idyllic probinsya-
location. On the menu style meal

98 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


BUHAY PROBINSYA (Clockwise from
WRS  7KH ZDON WR %DZEDZRQ ,VODQG LV
a wonderful way to get a glimpse of
WKH ORFDO ZLOGLIH WKH LVODQG SURWHFWV
Locals enjoy plenty of fresh seafood
including grilled sunghan, kitong
UDEELWˉVK  DQG kinilaw na gisaw, all
IUHVKO\FDXJKW

are dishes that feature is his riff on the lechon baboy culinary offerings are still burgers! This is no fad,
ingredients and produce that Misamis is so known for. limited. There’s a selection because she has been selling
unique to Misamis. Kinilaw Lechon is something of of established favorites like her burgers for over 20 years.
na laya, for example, makes an obsession to the locals, Coffee Lounge at Royal
use of an indigenous fish and is ubiquitous at all Garden Hotel, where one A meal on the water
(laya) which is fatty with a gatherings. Outstanding goes for a spot of dessert or Outside the city, adventure
pleasing flavor profile, and with crisp, crackling skin merienda; the North Pole, and superbly fresh seafood
local tabon-tabon for the and tenderly juicy meat, which opened in 1966 and are to be found. Sapang
acid. And since dragonfruit they say the secret is in what is known for its halo halo; Dalaga, a municipality
is the new commercial crop the pigs are fed. There are and then there’s unique known for its panoramic
venture in Misamis, Chef respected lechoneros to be street food. We spotted a mountains and gorgeous
Johann makes luscious found all over the city who street vendor pushing a lakes, is a two-hour drive
dragonfruit ice cream. Don’t are proud of their craft. cart with spaghetti burgers, east of Ozamiz. The first
miss the lechon baka, which Aside from these, the city’s biko burgers and even bihon stop was at Shrine of Christ

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 99


FOOD TOUR

the Redeemer in Barangay


Caluya. Patterned after
the iconic statue in Rio de
Janeiro, the shrine is built
on a hill overlooking a
staggering view—the blue-
washed vista encompassing
Murcielagos Bay, Naputhas
Island, Mount Malindang
and Dioyo River. The sun,
fresh breeze and the 197 steps
you’ve got to climb will work
up your appetite, so you’re
ready for the next stage.
This would be the town AN ABUNDANCE OF FLAVOR (Clockwise
from top left): Locals may not realize
proper of Caluya, a small the treasure trove of ingredients they
fishing village on the edge of KDYH RQ KDQG 'LVKHV LQFOXGH FKLFNHQ
tinola IUHVKZDWHU VKHOOˉVK ERLOHG ZLWK
a lake. Small floating cottages D OLWWOH VDOW JLQJHU DQG JDUOLF DQG D
are anchored at the center of kinilaw of guso, and a ceviche with
the lake, accessible via a five- a dressing of mayonnaise and uni hectares in the municipality
minute ride on an outrigger of Plaridel. It’s the site of the
boat. While members of Bawbawon Island Marine
the group frolicked in the Sanctuary, a safe space where
clear water, lunch was being fish lay eggs and wild birds
prepared. The practice is to can nest. Partially covered
order lunch from villagers by mangrove forests, the
on the mainland, who will island is uninhabited and
cook the freshest catch of the can only be accessed via a
day. The result was a feast of 1.3-kilometer bamboo bridge
grilled seafood: shrimp and built across the water. The
spider shells called saang, mangroves play a crucial
and local freshwater fish role in keeping the ecology
like kitong and sunghan that in balance: it’s breeding
were caught that morning by and nursery grounds for
the adolescent boys we met marine life, including
playing in the water. commercially-important
shrimps and crabs, and it
A mangrove-covered serves as buffer between land
island and sea, minimizing erosion.
More precious than gold The locals sometimes call
is the island of Bawbawon, it Punong Kalanggaman,
a tiny paradise of only 30 which means ‘Home of the

100 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


EASY EATS IN JIMENEZ
(Clockwise from right):
6KDQJKDL 1RRGOH +RXVH
is the oldest restaurant
LQ -LPHQH] koter is a
drink made of tuba and
FDFDR D VDPSOLQJ RI
local Jimenez kakanin
including kutsinta, rice
cakes with mais and
local bread leavened
with tuba WKH KRW lomi
VRXS IURP 6KDQJKDL
1RRGOH +RXVH WKDW ZLOO
enervate you after a
long day’s tour

Birds’. In the shallows of branches for firewood, and store and sell bottled water the local seafood call for the
the mangroves, you can see then picnic at Puting Bulas, and chips, but will pack up simplest cooking techniques:
rabbitfish, gisaw and other a sandy beach of broken and leave by end of day. grilled fish and squid with
fingerlings. corals. Local tourists have Our hosts, the municipal vinegar dipping sauce, a
It’s a lonely spot. recently discovered the government of Plaridel, had guso (seaweed) salad with a
Young boys from Plaridel island. On days when visitors a beach cottage waiting for dressing of uni (sea urchin)
occasionally cross to the are abundant, an enterprising us with some of their local blended with mayonnaise,
island to gather coco fronds citizen from Plaridel will set delicacies that show you and local breads. When you
and dried mangrove tree up a temporary “sari-sari” how the fresh, full flavors of are so close to nature, the

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 101


FOOD TOUR

OLD CLASSICS 6DQ -XDQ %DXWLVWD


&KXUFK LQ -LPHQH] KRW FKRFRODWH
made from local tablea, and the
famous suman from Clarin

simplest fare is all you need. in 1914 and became a printing


We noticed how the press during the Japanese
growing number of local occupation when emergency
tourists have begun to leave money was printed on the
litter on the beach, which is a premises. A walking tour of
serious concern. Bawbawon the town revealed interesting
is an animal sanctuary, and architectural details
the humans should be better- (ventanillas, grillworks), and
behaved guests. fascinating anecdotes about
the old families who used to
The heritage live in the houses.
homes of Jimenez Should hunger pangs
The old town of Jimenez is a strike, the place to go is the
heritage site known for the old Shanghai Noodle House,
beautiful art deco homes that a mid-20th century wooden
its citizens built at the turn of house that serves Filipino
the century. Jimenez is in the and Chinese fare. You can
municipality of Oroquieta order a bowl of hot lomi with
which used to be the thick egg noodles and with
financial capital of Ozamiz, fresh egg beaten into the
and hence was the home of soup. Ngo hiong is a crunchy
many well-to-do citizens. fried spring roll with meat or
At the center is San veggies inside.
Juan Bautista Church, built Before you leave Jimenez, you will find 16 (read: Johann’s Cuisine,
in 1880, which became a stop for a drink of koter, a sixteen!) variants of suman. Bañadero Highway,
National Cultural Treasure concoction of tuba, tablea The flavors come in latik, Ozamis, (088) 521-
in 2001 as the best-preserved and an egg. A batirol is used chocolate moron, ube moron, 4351, Facebook:
Spanish colonial-era church to turn the drink into a plain, pinya, nanga, durian, JohannsCuisine
in Mindanao. Around the boozy frothy cocktail. It will balintawak, cheese, ube, ibus,
corner is the cream-and- warm up your insides and it buko, peanut, mango and, Shanghai Noodle
pink Casa de Ozamiz; locals tastes somewhat like Bailey’s strangely, carrot. It’s a great House, Old National
are proud to point out the poured over a little whisky. innovation on a traditional Highway, Jimenez,
interesting wood detail food product and, so far, Misamis Occidental
on its roof. Arguably most Take home seems to be quite a success.
famous is the Old Bacarro a piece of Ozamiz After a six-day visit, we House of Suman,
Printing Press, originally Just before heading back have a little box of suman in Clarin, Misamis
the residence of the Tac-An to Manila, pass by Clarin’s assorted flavors, a piece of Occidental
Nacion family. This was built House of Suman where Ozamiz to bring home.

102 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


Loving
Breakfast
and Bread
The first leg of FOOD Tastings featured
fun cooking demos to celebrate the
wonders of bread and breakfast
Breakfast Noodles 4. Add chicken powder if
By Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla using, all-purpose cream and
Serves 4 noodles. Cook for 1 minute.
5. Transfer noodles to a
200 grams Sapporo Long bowl then top with fried
Kow vermicelli eggs. Garnish with chopped  Preheat oven to 400°F.
(sotanghon) noodles spring onions.  ,Q D ODUJH VNLOOHW RU FDVW
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped iron pan, render bacon in
garlic Mushroom and its own fat until crispy. Set
2 tablespoons chopped Spinach Strata with aside bacon, but keep bacon
onions Grilled Sausages and oil in the pan.
1/4 cup vegetable oil Tomatoes with Pesto 3. ,Q WKH VDPH SDQ DGG
100 grams longanisa Macau By Portia Baluyut RQLRQV DQG JDUOLF 6DXW« BREAKFAST BOUNTY
(Clockwise from top left) A packed
or Chinese sausage, Serves 6 until onions turn translucent. house at the Trinoma Activity Center;
chopped Add in mushrooms and Chef Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla used Sapporo
4 grams chicken powder or 200 grams bacon, sliced VSLQDFK 6DXW« XQWLO FRRNHG Long Kow Vermicelli to make breakfast
noodles, which can be topped with a
 VDFKHW ˊDYRU HQKDQFHU 1 large onion, chopped Set aside. VXQQ\ VLGHXS HJJ RU XVHG DV D ˉOOLQJ
granules, optional 1 tablespoon minced garlic 4. ,Q D ODUJH ERZO EHDW HJJV for an omelet (see recipe); Kimberly
225 grams all-purpose 3/4 cup canned sliced Add all cheeses and cubed $QQ %RDGLOOD RI &DI« 6KLEX\D VKRZHG
us how to make Benedict Savory Toast;
cream mushrooms bread. Press egg mixture Wilson Lee Flores, owner of 78-year-old
salt and pepper, to taste 2 cups spinach leaves down into the bread cubes, .DPXQLQJ %DNHU\ &DI« ZLWK &KHI $OEHUW
Rance, explained how their best selling
4 eggs, fried sunny side up 10 large eggs, beaten making sure the egg is well pan de suelo pairs perfectly with their
chopped spring onions, for 1 cup grated mozzarella absorbed into the bread. homemade corned beef; Portia Baluyut
garnish 1/2 cup grated cheddar 7KURZ LQ VDXW«HG YHJHWDEOHV of A Pinch of Portia‘s scrumptious
Mushroom & Spinach Strata (see recipe
1 cup grated and mix together. below); Chef Portia also used day-old
1. Soak noodles in warm mild Gruyère 5. Return egg mixture to bread to make Chocolate Banana French
water for 20 minutes, then 1/2 loaf stale bread the skillet or transfer to an Toast Bake with Walnut Streusel
drain. Set aside. or 150 to 200 grams ovenproof baking dish. Top
2. Over a low to moderate baguette, sliced into with grated cheese. Bake for FOOD Tastings was presented by FOOD
Magazine, the Lifestyle TV and Trinoma
ˉUH KHDW WKH RLO WKHQ VDXW« large cubes  PLQXWHV Mall. It was also brought to you by
garlic and onion for 10 grated cheddar cheese, for 6. Grill sausages and halved Sapporo, and held in participation
ZWK 7HIDO 2IˉFLDO PHGLD SDUWQHUV
seconds. topping tomatoes. Top with pesto include NoInk, ABS-CBN Lifestyle and
3. Add in longanisa Macau assorted sausages sauce. Serve together with WhenInManila.com. Special thanks to
or Chinese sausage. Season tomatoes, cut in half the strata. Alpha Corp Events, Café Shibuya and
LEX Audio Events. Visit FOOD Magazine
with salt and pepper. pesto sauce on Facebook for upcoming FOOD
Simmer for 20 seconds. Tastings events.

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 103


EVENTS

Culinary students learn and compete at JOLLY University


N
ow on its fourth year,
JOLLY University
recently held a whole
day event at The Pavilion
with interesting lectures by
top industry practitioners
and a challenging cook-off
by culinary students from 23
schools around Luzon and
Metro Manila.
The JOLLY Congress
featured talks by notable
food and media personalities
like Leo de Leon of Allegro
Beverage, Liza Morales of
CCA Manila, Karla Reyes of
La Petite Fromagerie, Nana to develop their culinary, Team grand winners were cash and prizes, trophies, a
Ozaeta of FOOD Magazine, entrepreneurial and La Consolacion Batangas culinary training workshop
Bryan Kong of Crazy leadership skills. It started for Pasta, Lyceum Subic under CCA Manila, and an
Katsu, Jose Mari Oquiñena off with a Bootcamp at the Bay for Mocktails, and La internship program under
of Gawad Kalinga, Anne Center for Culinary Arts, Consolacion Manila for Fly Ace Corporation.
Atanacio of Anghelica’s Manila, and culminated with Main Dish. Individual grand Exclusively distributed by
Desserts, Kian Kazemi of the final competition that winner for Main Dish was Fly Ace Corporation, JOLLY
Persian Grill, Rebecca Lee challenged the 120 student- Bernice Angeline Tenorio of canned fruits and vegetables
of wheninmanila.com and finalists to create innovative, University of Santo Tomas, and dairy products
Miss Earth 2015 Angelia Ong. delicious, beautifully- while La Consolacion Manila are available in leading
JOLLY University offers presented dishes using took home the Audience supermarkets nationwide.
student participants an JOLLY’s line of canned fruit Choice award. The winners Visit jolly.com.ph or follow
unforgettable experience and vegetables. received P50,000 worth of Jolly Eats on Facebook 

LEARNING FROM
CHEF JEAN-GEORGES
VONGERICHTEN
F
rench chef Jean-
Georges knew that
he wanted to become
a chef when his parents
brought him to a three-star
Michelin restaurant for his
birthday. Now based in New
York City, he has become a
world-renowned chef with
32 restaurants worldwide,
four of which are Michelin-
starred. Enderun Colleges,
The Ways of the Tea Master

T
together with Placement he Coffee Bean & perfect cup of tea. He
International, is fortunate Tea Leaf celebrated shared CBTL teas’ unique
to be partnering with its passion for tea origins and flavor profiles,
him for the international with world-renowned their proper storage,
launch of the Jean-Georges master blender David De different steeping times
Academy. The program Candia who also happens and health benefits.
offers a one-week boot to be the Ambassador De Candia is currently
camp for experienced chefs of Ceylon Tea for North working on a new tea
and an intensive one- America and Canada, infusion series for CBTL,
month training program for appointed by the Prime in collaboration with
culinary novices to prepare Minister of Sri Lanka some of the Philippines’
them for internship in a himself. De Candia finest chefs, and is
global and diverse work recently visited the something that Filipino
environment. Jean-Georges Philippines to conduct tea lovers can look
Academy’s enrollees will email extensioncourses@ a tea appreciation forward to in the coming
surely be inspired by Jean- enderuncolleges.com, or workshop on how to months. Visit www.
Georges’ success story. visit www.enderunextension. get the most out of the coffeebean.com.ph
(02) 856-5000 local 505, com

104 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


A SUMMER BARBECUE
FEST WITH BULL
OUTDOOR GRILLS
W
ilcon Depot recently welcomed the summer
with a fun outdoor BBQ party held at Tagaytay
Highlands. Chef Jessie Sincioco laid out a
veritable barbecue feast, grilling seafood skewers, squid,
whole fish, chicken inasal, sausages, Angus beef, lamb
chops, and much more. She and her team did it all in just
an hour’s time thanks to Bull’s outdoor kitchen which
features state-of-the-art stainless steel gas grills, plus ample
counter space and stylish design. It was the perfect way
to enjoy the outdoors, cooking and eating with family and
(Clockwise from top): Components of Indonesian oxtail friends, with chilled wine in hand. Bull Outdoor Kitchens
soup; Thai master Chef Romeo Malate; Thai green curry founder and CEO Mark Nureddine and his family flew from
their California headquarters to share their excitement to
introduce their line of outdoor kitchens and grills to the
Philippine market. Bull Outdoor Kitchens are available at
Wilcon Depot branches. Visit www.bullbbq.com and www.
wilcon.com.ph for more information

GOING SOUTHEAST ASIAN


AT SOFITEL PHILIPPINE
PLAZA MANILA
A
s part of its Flavors of the World Series, the hotel’s
flagship restaurant Spiral celebrated Southeast Asian
cuisines with an Indonesian Food Festival followed
by the Amazing Songkran Festival. Indonesian chef Pradipta
Primaputra from Sofitel Jakarta prepared traditional
Indonesian dishes like Gado-Gado (boiled vegetable salad
with peanut sauce), delicious and decadent Beef Rendang,
and Indonesian ox-tail soup served with spicy sambal olek.
For the Songkran Festival celebrating the Thai New Year,
Spiral’s Thai Master Chef Romeo Malate prepared classics
like Tom Yum Goong, Massaman Curry, plus a live Pad Thai
Kung station. Watch out for Spiral’s Indian Food Festival
coming this September. Call (02) 832-6988 or visit www.
sofitelmanila.com

Sustainable Seafood Week 2017

F
or the second year in a row, Sustainable Seafood Week brought together
Manila’s top hotels, restaurants, environmental and fisheries, NGOs and
other stakeholders in the common goal to save our marine and fishing
resources. Dialogue was held on best practices in sustainable fisheries, and the
role of stakeholders in the fishing industry in sourcing and serving sustainable
seafood to diners. The closing dinner, held at Old Manila at The Peninsula
Manila, was a collaboration of chefs from top hotels including Discovery Liesure
Company, Fairmont Manila, Gallery Vask, Hyatt City of Dreams, New World
Hotel, The Peninsula Manila, Marco Polo, Marriott Manila, and the Shangril-la
Hotels. For more information, visit Facebook: SustainableSeafoodWeekPH

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 105


EVENTS

GOÛT DE FRANCE CELEBRATES FRENCH


CUISINE IN THE PHILIPPINES
L
ast March 21, nine Novotel Manila’s $W 0LUHLR 5DIˊHV
chefs offered special excellent Carré Makati, Chef Nicolas
French dinners at their d’Agneau (roasted Cegretin created a
restaurants, in conjunction rack of lamb) three-course menu
served with creamy that begins with this
with 2,000 other chefs pomme dauphinoise fantasy of an amuse
in five continents, to and ratatouille bouche: velvety foie
celebrate Goût de France. Provençal JUDV ˊHXU GH VHO
Organized by the French ginger chutney, with a
spritely Champagne
Ministry of Foreign
Affairs and International
Development, this global
campaign pays tribute to
French gastronomy as part
of UNESCO’s Intangible
Cultural Heritage List in
2010. Participating chefs
were Chef Jacq Tan of
Apéro and Duck & Buvette,
Victor Magsaysay of CAV,
Francesca Mabanta of
Corner Tree Café, Michael
Schauss of Novotel Manila’s
Gourmet Bar, Chris Bautista
of La Crêperie, Kevin Endaya
of Lemuria, Nicolas Cegretin
of Raffles Makati’s Mirèio,
Justin Baradas of Enderun event of the “PhilFrance: For more information on
Colleges’ Restaurant 101 Feel French!” festival to PhilFrance: Feel French!, Chef Victor Magsaysay’s Filipino-French
menu at CAV included this Roulade of Fowl
and Pierre Cornelis of Hotel celebrate the 70th year visit ph.ambafrance.org
with native mushrooms, tubers and yams,
Benilde’s Vatel Restaurant anniversary of diplomatic or follow French Embassy DQGDULFKWUXIˊHFUHDPVDXFH
Manila. Goût de France is relations between France Manila on Facebook.
the first culinary themed and the Philippines.

DINE
Filipino food tours go to Europe PHILIPPINES
TAKES
and North America OZAMIZ BY
STORM

“F G
ood has the reat ideas in
inherent ability the food and
to bring people beverage
together,” said Assistant industry were brought
Secretary Maria Teresa C. to fore at the Dine
Lepatan of the Department Philippines Ozamiz
of Foreign Affairs (DFA). chapter, which took
This belief is what has led place last March. The
to the DFA’s 2017 Philippine three-day convention
Culinary Tour of Europe and brought farmers, chefs,
North America. The first restaurateurs and
tour, “Kulinarya: A Guide (From left) Chef Myrna Segismundo’s sample dishes; Amy Besa of Purple Yam culinarians together.
to Philippine Food,” travels Speakers included
to London, Brussels, The tour, “Hidden Flavors of the Ralph Cruz of Purple Yam Waya Araos-Wijangco
Hague/Amsterdam and Philippine Kitchen,” goes to Manila. They will partner of Gourmet Gypsy
Berlin from May 26 to New York, Seattle, Chicago, with local restaurants to Cafe, Ige Ramos
June 24. Chefs Myrna Toronto and Philadelphia create multi-course meals of the Republic of
Segismundo, Raul Ramos from September 15 to open to the public. Both Taste, Jairus Ferrer
and Jill Sandique, with October 10 led by Chef culinary tours highlight of iFarms and Pronic
food writer Michaela Romy Dorotan and Amy artisanal ingredients from Foods, Chino San
Fenix will lead the tour Besa of Purple Yam, a various regions of the Jose of Chez Nous by
which will include a photo Filipino restaurant with country, giving foreigners Chippens in Davao,
exhibit, talks, cooking branches in Manila and New an eye-opening and and Jam Melchior of
demos and a full-course York, together with chefs palate-provoking taste of Healthy Eats Manila.
Filipino dinner. The second Raphael Cristobal and Alvin homegrown Filipino food.

106 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2


(Clockwise from top left); The well-heeled crowd at Tapas Night; Lolea white
and red sangria from Terry’s Selection; Chef Jordy Navarra’s (Toyo Eatery)
homemade empanadas with chorizo and papaya atchara; Chef Carlos Garcia’s
(The Black Pig) native snails sautéed in bone marrow, garlic, parsley and cognac

Tapas Night 2017


B
y now it’s tradition to open Madrid Fusión Manila with
Tapas Night, in which the best Spanish tapas, wines,
cold cuts and delicacies are offered by the great
Spanish chefs in the city under one roof. This year’s Tapas
Night was held at Green Sun Hotel in Makati, and this time
the menu was a collaboration between Spanish and Filipino
chefs. “Tapas Night showcases harmony among chefs, food
and wine suppliers and lovers of Spanish cuisine to portray
the spirit of the Spanish way of life,” said Jose Primo Santos
of the Embassy of Spain in Manila. For more information
visit Facebook: TapasNight Manila

TOP MENU MASTERS


W
hat makes a successful food and beverage concept, and
how do you take a concept and make it a profitable
business? These were the questions on the table at the
annual Top Menu Masters Foodservice Conference, which this year
had the theme of “The Business of F&B Innovation”. the one day
conference featured a powerhouse of speakers, including Amor
Maclang of GeiserMaclang, Miguel Mercado of Ogilvy and Mather,
Chef Steven Carl of Grind Burger Group, Liquido Maestro Chef Kalel
Demetrio, and Margot Torres of McDonald’s Philippines. For more
information, visit www.foodfindsasia.com

Why we eat what we eat a collaboration dinner


by chefs and advocates
featuring select local

A
pioneering event produce. Held at 7107
was the one-day Culture + Cuisine, the dinner
conference hosted featured dishes by Patrick
by the Philippine Culinary Roa of Patricio’s Cevicheria,
Heritage Movement Chino San Jose of Chippen’s
(PHCHM) entitled “The Davao, Sharwin Tee of
State of the Filipino Curiosity Got the Chef,
Plate: Why We Eat What Nino Laus of Ninyo’s and
We Eat,” which brought Mikel Zaguirre of Locavore,
together farmers, culinary among others. “Food is an
historians, chefs and other integral part of our identity,”
gastronomic experts to said Sheryl Genuino See,
take part in a conversation executive vice president
about the preservation of Treston Colleges where
of culinary traditions, the event took place. The
best practices in local conference and workshop
food cultivation and how was certainly a celebration
patterns of eating transform of flavors, and was a unique
the culinary landscape. Council of Monuments and says PCHM president Jam opportunity to connect with
Speakers included Chef Sites (ICMOS). “‘Our work Melchior. “We hope this can the many people making a
Giney Villar of Cafe Feliza, is about preserving Filipino jumpstart more in-depth mark in local gastronomy.
Kiko Torno of 7 Hectares, cuisine, educating especially studies and initiatives of our For more information
Charlene Tan of Good Food through taste, and finding local gastronomy.” visit Facebook: Philippine
Community and Tracey the best way to preserve Following the conference Culinary Heritage Movement
Santiago of International our culinary heritage,” was a Taste Workshop,

FOOD | 2017 Issue 2 107


Cool Kids In The Kitchen
It was the perfect way to wrap up Madrid Fusión Manila
2017: with fantastic flavors, friendly cooperation and
collaboration in action at Cheryl Tiu’s Cross Cultures’ “10
Hands, 4 Restaurants, 1 Night” dinner at Gallery Vask,
where five award-winning chefs from all over the globe
cooked together, exchanged ideas, enthralled diners with
their dishes, and had a whole lot of fun in the process.
By GINNY MATA | Photography by PAT MATEO courtesy of Metro Society

(Front row, from right): Josean Alija of Nerua Guggenheim (Bilbao, Spain), Chele Gonzalez of Gallery Vask (Manila, Philippines), Julien
Royer of Odette (Singapore), sous chefs Adam Wan of Odette, Iñaki Bolumburu of Nerua Guggenheim, Aaron Khor of Locavore, head
FKHI&DUORV9LOODˊRURI*DOOHU\9DVN (Back row, from right): Ray Adriansyah and Eelke Plasmeijer of Locavore (Bali, Indonesia)

108 FOOD | 2017 Issue 2

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