Understanding of Quality Parameters for Trousers

A dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirement for the award

of Degree in

BACHELOR OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (APPAREL PRODUCTION)

Submitted By

Vishwanath Kumar Saw

Submitted to

Mr. TS Prakash (Associate Professor. & Center Coordinator)

Mr Ranjan Saha (Associate professor)

NIFT, Mumbai

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, (Mumbai), May 2018

 CERTIFICATE

“This is to certify that this Project Report titled “Understanding of Quality Parameters for
Trousers.” is based on our, Vishwanath Kumar Saw, original research work, conducted
under the guidance of Mr. TS Prakash (Associate Professor. & Center Coordinator) and Mr
Ranjan Saha, Associate Professor NIFT Mumbai, towards partial fulfilment of the
requirement for award of the Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel
Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai. No part of this work
has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed has been duly
acknowledged.”

Signature of Author/Researcher
 Acknowledgement

We sincerely appreciate the inspiration; support and guidance of all those people who have
been instrumental in making this project a success. A big thank you to National Institute of
Fashion Technology, Mumbai for giving us a friendly environment for pursuing our project.
We would also like to thank ‘Department of Fashion Technology’ for constantly supporting
us and guiding us throughout the project.

We are highly indebted to Mr T. S. Prakash (Associate Professor & Course coordinator,)Mr

Ranjan Saha, Associate Professor NIFT Mumbai, for his guidance and constant supervision
as well as for providing necessary information regarding the project & also for his support in
completing the project.

We would like to express our special gratitude and thanks to Mr Vikash Thakur, Deputy
Manager, for giving us such attention and time during the project. Our thanks and
appreciations also extend to our colleagues, in developing the project and people who have
willingly helped us out with their abilities.

I also express my gratitude to Mr T. S. Prakash (Course coordinator, BFT-NIFT Mumbai) and

the Department of Fashion Technology, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai
for giving us an opportunity and exposing me to the industries so that I can enrich my
practical knowledge for better understanding of the course

Vishwanath Kumar Saw

Introduction

The Indian clothing or apparel industry had its origin during the Second World War mainly
for mass production of military uniforms. Over the years, its profile has undergone
significant changes. Technology has been gradually upgraded and there is qualitative and
quantitative improvement in apparel industry in India. Now India is well known for its fine
textile products and emerged as strong destination of all types of high end textile products.
India s garments are exported to almost all parts of developed world. Most of the leading
fashion brands are sourcing substantial quantities from India now.
One of the basic needs of civilized mankind is clothes. The garment industry caters to the
need of clothing while textile refers to the production of intermediate products like fabric
and yarn etc. which are used to make the final product i.e. garment. The textile trade
around the word has expanded at rapid speed than the GDP growth and trade in
international textile and clothing has grown at higher rate than world trade. World textile
and clothing industry was around US$ 309 Bn in year 2003 and it was expected that it would
be reaching US$ 550 Bn by 2005 and US$ 856 Bn by 2012. Textile and Clothing (T&C)
industry would be the fourth industry to cross trillion dollar mark after Auto, Computer and
Pharmaceutical sector. There is immense potential of growth with changing fashion and
rising standard of living. US and EU would be the major importer countries of textile
products.

Quality control or quality assurance in terms of garment manufacturing, pre-production and

posts production, service, delivery, pricing, etc. are essential for any garment manufacturer,
trader or exporter. Certain quality related problems, should never be over looked. The
consumers want to get high quality products in low price. The products should reach the
consumers with right quality depends on the cost. Quality assurance covers all the process
within a company that contributes to the production of quality products. The inspection is
carried out by representatives of the current production and the result record on control
chart. The aim of garment inspection is to visually inspect articles at random from a delivery
in order to verify their general conformity and appearance with instruction/description
and/or sample received.
Need of the project

Understanding of process garment are making trouser. There are different types of trouser
are like formal, casual, cargo, chinos, joggers, jeans, track pants, available in the market.
There have different parts and panel stitch together. It includes specification sheet, style
types, quality parameter, product design, quality control, quality analysis. In the market
same size of garment different types of problem and quality available, so consumer are
problem facing with fit, quality etc.

Objective of the project

Understanding of Garment
Quality Parameter for Trouser

Methodology

To understand garment construction is to appreciate the different in quality between

fashions. It is most important and most complicated to quality used for apparel industry. We
were collected different types of garments as well as secondary data for quality parameters
of product or used in apparel industry. It was necessary to check different factors affecting
the skills and learning.

Methodology used in project

 Training manual and articles have helped to understand exiting training scenario in
the apparel industry. With understanding of what is needed in manual.
 Buyer manual helped to understand quality parameters of garments.
Review of literature

HNS’s Quality Assurance to ensure the every product they buy and sell. These manual
contains specific information concerning the minimum quality standards expects in the
product it purchases.. HSN guide the document to help through the process of submitting
apparel product. This document contains general information.HNS quality process
maintaining proper timing of the QA sample, specification sheet and to ensure the accurate
design intent, fit approval process and sampling requirements. How to submit sample to QA.
A complete product specification sheet include all component and product details, all
proposed care instruction features and benefits, objective and performance claims, all
garment spec measurements for base size M. They include Garment sizing, fit guide and All
Fit Samples must be in the same fabrication, weight and construction as the final product.
Testing results must be submitted to the Documents section of the Product Specifications
Sheet within the HSN. Achieving the Proper Fit HSN has a strong commitment to fit, and
processes and tools that enable the development and execution of consistent apparel fit for
target customer. Tools used to fit consistency throughout the apparel development process.
Garment fit is defined by fabric performance characteristics and the dimensional
relationship between the garment and body measurements at fit critical areas. Wearing, or
fit ease refers to the difference between the garment measurement and the standard body
measurement at specific points of measure. Fit critical points of measurement are style
specific and identified as the point of measure on a garment that has the greatest impact on
fit.Standard Body Measurements tables show standard body measurements to fit the HSN
customer. All base on patterns on these body measurements. To improve process efficiency,
all apparel buyer should measure and pre-fit design approved samples on HSN Standard
dress forms before submitting to HSN QA., HNS also guide to garment labelling requirement,
Packaging, pre-shipment, inspection process, consumer safety guideline, measurement
guideline for finished garments, apparel QA standard checklist

Training manual and articles have helped to understand training scenario in the apparel
industry. The training modules have been completed according to the NSDC QP NOS
guideline. Knowledge of sewing thread Construction and manufacturing process of the
sewing thread, natural textile products such as cotton thread, silk thread, etc. have been
used as sewing thread before. Nowadays, however, chemical fiber products such as
polyester thread, nylon thread, etc. are largely used in accordance with materials or
applications. Type of Sewing Machines Based on Control Mechanism for example manually
controlled machines, Semi-Automatic Machines, Automatic Machines, Robotic Machines,
Lockstitch Machine, Multineedle Chain Stitch Machine etc. Stitching components of a
garment is the right sequence is very important. The operation can use a flowchart to sew
the components in right order. For example the sequence to sew a trouser Make ready
components (Waistband, zipper fly, belt loop, pocket bag). A Specification sheet a document
provided by the buyer which gives information about the garment. The Spec sheet provides
details regarding the Style number, style details, Fabric details, Size chart, order quantity,
care instructions, etc. Types of maintenance methods are include Break down maintenance,
Preventive maintenance, Routine maintenance, Daily maintenance, Monthly maintenance,
etc. It must carry out the following activities during working hours Check needle point.
Check the stitch quality. Check for any oil leakage. Clean the hook area. Check the oil level.
Remove the dust from oil reservoir. Check the needle. Check the feed dog, throat plate,
presser foot and hook point. Check the thread and the bobbin winder. Quality refers to how
good the product works. Such features are decisive as to product performance and as to
product satisfaction. In simpler terms a Quality Garment is having or should have
characteristics mentioned below. Look good, a garment which is stitched uniformly, and no
shade variation, ironed and folded properly. Quality Control is to assure that end products
meet the requirement and achieve customer satisfaction. A very effective control system is
required to ensure that the whole process is meeting product specification, with only a little
exception. It can be achieved through: In-process sampling. In process sampling is the way
of quality inspection making a random sample size and inspecting it at different stage of the
production. It helps to rectify the defects or mistakes while the production is going on. 100%
inspection is done normally at the end of the production line. Standards are a set of
characteristics or procedures that provide a basis for decisions. The standards guide product
development, selection of materials, production methods and finishing techniques. These
standards are established from the Specification sheet, buying sample etc. For a quality
checker, following quality standards means that he or she has to follow the guidelines and
training given to him or her regarding a certain style. He has to follow the various sheets
given to him which includes.
History of Trouser

Trousers have been worn in the Western world since ancient times. They are now the most
common form of lower-body clothing for men. Practical and comfortable, there’s no wonder
that they’ve been adopted by both genders as part of their everyday dress. Trousers were
first invented because robes are uncomfortable to wear on horseback. In fact, those who
wore trousers in battle had the upper hand over those who wore robes. For this reason,
civilisations all over the world adopted this form of dress to survive battle

Initially, trousers were a military garment. They came in the form of snug shorts or loose
fitting trousers that closed at the ankles. In the late 14th century, they developed into tight
trousers with attached foot coverings. This garment had the appearance of hose and was
worn by knights underneath plate armour.By 1500, proportions becoming more and more
exaggerated. Trousers were voluminous, ballooning over the thighs and nipping in at the
ankle. They were made from ornate cloth, featuring slashes to reveal the colourful lining
underneath.Eventually, these trousers were slimmed down into simple breeches that
fastened at the knee. But, these were later dropped in favour of the ankle length trousers
worn by the working class.It was only during the 19th century that we started to see
trousers like the ones we wear today. They were a looser fit with a button fly, worn in
neutral colours. It was Edward, the eldest son of Queen Victoria, who set the trend for
trousers as we know them today. He was also the figure who took trousers creases into the
mainstream.
Introduction of Trouser

Trouser depends on the style, finish, texture. A wide variety of design can be used to
trousers, including both natural materials and manmade. The weight and texture of the
fabric will also suit certain body types over others,
There are different types of trouser and different types of brand available in different style
in the market.
 Chinos,
 Casual trousers
 Formal trouser,
 Joggers
 Track pants
 Cargo
There are different types of fit of trouser
 Regular Fit
 Slim fit
 Loose fit
 Straight
 Boot cut
 Skinny
Every trouser has its own properties, but they can generally be assorted into three main
categories to choose from.

For Formal/Office:
 Comfortable
 Formal and stylish
 Breathable
 Perfect for all seasons
 Silk, Velvet
For Warmer Days:
 Lightweight, airy fabrics
 Breathable
 More casual look
 Comfortable against the skin
 Linen, cotton, silk, crepe

For Cooler/Wet Days:

 Extra warmth
 Durable
 Thick
 Retains heat well
 Breathable
 Moisture wicking or absorbent
 Waterproof
 Velour, Twill, Denim, Wool
Style depend on
 Fit
 Pleats
 Pants fastening
 Pockets
 Pant cuff
There are 5 trouser choose based on material, style, fit, look of the garments
 Chinos,
 Casual trousers
 Formal trouser,
 Joggers
 Cargo
Chinos
Chinos originated in the military as well, during the Spanish-American war in the Philippines.
The lightweight cotton twill uniforms produced in China were modelled after the earlier
uniforms described above. And, as one might guess, the name chino comes from Spanish
slang for “China.” But in an effort to conserve cloth, the pants were designed with tapered
legs, and without pleats or pockets. The result was a more streamlined fit which has
endured over time.
Chinos are a cotton twill fabric or casual cotton trousers made from chino or similar fabric.
The chinos fall in between of khakis and dress pants. A popular style and a great piece of
work wear that comes with exceptionally cool way. If invested in this, it will let you cherish
every moment as you pick up this item. They are a step up in a dressy world and a style
that’s an all-rounder. Chinos have been a part of fashion world since the 20th century. It
totally depends on what type of chinos you own because they come in various styles which
make it apt for different occasions. Chinos are transitional piece that give an utter comfort
vibe.

Formal trousers
Formal trousers are formal striped trousers worn as a formal or semi-formal daywear. They
have settings that can make the work and fancy party quite interesting. If you want
something that’s a bit different than the standard pants you always wear then formal pants
are a way to do so. They add that spark and details of smartness in no time. Opt for colors
like black, blue, and grey because they are timeless and can prep up any look in no time.

Joggers
Joggers are loose trousers made of stretchy fabric elasticised at the waist that are worn
during jogging hours. But this style doesn’t stop there. They have endured over the years
and have been awarded for being the most favourite garment. The leisure wear have
garnered popularity in the recent season. At the first glance, it may not look trendy but
honestly this piece can be clubbed with different styles too. They are either loose or tapered
at the bottom. This makes them look great and now become a revolution for us to rely on.
Cargo pants
Cargo pants are loose fitting cotton trousers with large patch pockets which are half way
down each leg. Originally made for the military back in 30’s, the pants were mainly designed
for outdoor activities. They are known to hold field dressings. They have slowly become
more popular for street style looks and are so fashionable that fit right in. Finish your
modern style outfit with these pants because they have an interesting mix of comfort and
fitness cue.
Trouser Descriptions
Product Details - Trouser
Sweatpants- - Jack & Jones Premium
Sweatpants with waffle structure
- Stretch cotton blend for movement and comfort
- With zip fly and two rear welt pockets
Product Information:
Additional zipper pocket
attached with front pocket
Stretch Fabric
Belt Loop

Front pocket Bag

Slit welt pocket Front pocket Press open seam for clear
appearance

Hem Open side-seam Welt pocket bags

Brand Jack & Jones Weave Knits

Size M Wash Machine wash at max
40°C
Fabric composition 62% Polyester, 36% Ironing Iron on medium heat
Cotton, 2% Elastane settings
Flying Machine Slim Fit Cargo Joggers
Trousers by flying machine made from cotton multi-pocket detailing button and fly closure
slim fit
Grey, brown and navy camouflage printed casual trouser, has a waistband with belt loops,
zip and buttoned closure in the front, two insert pockets at sides, coin pocket at right,
embroidered branding above left pocket at front, 2 welt pockets at back, brand embroidery
above left back pocket

Belt Loop
Elastic attach to
Flap Pocket Hem
Front pocket

Cargo pocket/ Flap Front pocket Bag

Pocket

Hem Welt pocket

Side seam
Brand Flying Machine Weave Plain weave
Size M Wash Machine wash cold
normal cycle
Fabric composition 100% Cotton
AS Original Casual Trouser

These Khaki coloured chinos having a sleek design and a slim fit that lend them a flattering
silhouette. Made from cotton spandex fabric, these chinos will be an utter delight to wear
and will be comfortable all day long. The composition of 98% cotton with 2% stretch added
for extra comfort and mobility.

Front Pocket
Belt Loop Stretch Fabric

Front pocket Front pocket Bag

Overlock seam
Slit welt pocket

Hem Side Seam

Welt pocket bags

Brand American CS Weave Twill

Fabric composition 98% Cotton, Wash Machine wash cold
2%Elastic, gentle cycle
Size M
 Brand Colour Plus Weave Twill
Fabric composition 100% cotton Wash Machine wash cold

Size M Iron Warm iron as needed

Front Pocket Bag Hem

Waistband Lining Overlock seam
Care Label Position

Welt Pocket Bag

Overlock seam Side Seam
Front pocket bag

Welt Pocket Bag Side Seam Hem

Brand Louis Philippe Weave Plain weave

Fabric composition 98% Cotton, 2%Lycra Wash Machine warm wash
durable cycle
Size M Iron Warm iron
 Front Sweatpants Details

Belt Loop at
waistband
Button Keyhole with light
PVC Button at inside
weight interlining at center
waistband
front waistband

SNLS at fly opening

and Inside by binding Safety purpose
Bartack at front
pocket

YKK Metal Zipper

Hook at inside the

waistband

Inside Front Details

Waistband lining
attached inside the
Fit label at inside waistband
waistband
SNLS attached
Serging at fly edge
pocket bags
for safety
Front pocket bags
Front Pocket cover
are sandwiched into
with overlock
the front waistband

Bartack At fly
Front Details

Button Keyhole with light

weight interlining at center
2cm Width Belt Loop
front waistband
at waistband PVC Button at inside
waistband

Band Logo
SNLS at fly
opening and Safety purpose
Inside by Bartack at front
binding pocket
3 needle
flat lock
for Safety
stitch
YKK metal Zipper

Inside Front Details

Waistband attached
Care label at inside with 2 needle lock
waistband stitch
SNLS attached
pocket bags
Serging at fly edge
Front pocket bags
for safety
Front Pocket edge are sandwiched into
cover with overlock the front waistband

Bartack At fly
 Front Details

Hook at inside the

Belt Loop at PVC Button at inside waistband
waistband waistband

SNLS at Size Label at Fly

fly Safety purpose
opening Bartack at front
and pocket
Inside by
binding

YKK Metal Zipper

Button Keyhole with light
weight interlining at center
front waistband
Inside Front Details

Waistband lining
Fit label at inside attached inside the
waistband waistband
SNLS attached
pocket bags
Serging at fly edgeFront pocket bags
Front Pocket joins for safety are sandwiched into
with front panel the front waistband

Bartack At fly
Front Details

Button Keyhole with light

weight interlining at center
Belt Loop at PVC Button at inside front waistband
waistband waistband

SNLS at
fly Safety purpose
opening Bartack at front
and pocket
Inside by
binding

Q Metal Zipper
Quality:

Quality is defined as Totality of characteristics of an entity product, service etc. that bears
on its ability to satisfy stated and implied needs.

Quality control:

Quality control is an effective system for interchanging the quality maintenance and quality
improvement efforts of various groups in an organization so as to enable production at the
most economical levels which allow full satisfaction for the consumers.

Quality Analysis

Quality analysis is the solution of something complex into its various simple elements.
Quality is no doubt a simple or complex phenomenon. Quality analysis is a business practice
within a company, aiming at improving quality of products or services. In any case quality
analysis is a process attempting to determine the actual level in order to find ways and
means resulting in quality improvement. The most traditional methods of quality analysis
are based on statistics. The Pareto diagram provides a simple and obvious method for
reducing the number of quality parameters to the controllable. Another well-known method
is the statistical quality inspection whereby test results gained from a small sample are
extrapolated from the entire population (material or product batch or supply). Two step
sampling is particularly efficient and economic, but unfortunately it is practically not used in
fashion industries. More sophisticated statistical quality assessment is done by using control
chart which can be constructed and operated using computer spreadsheets.

I start checking operation, Fabric, Style, finished of trouser and the major defects was on
side seam, waistband, Welt pocket Bartack, Bottom hem, Fly J shape, Loop Unfinished,
Improper open side seam press, Improper waistband size, etc. I was checked every
operation, I was got major, minor defects - Open Seam, Missing Stitch, Missed Bar Tacks,
Broken Button, Uneven Waistband, Improper Position Of Belt Loop, Wrong Label, Label
Position Is Incorrect, etc. on trouser
Inspection Criteria for trouser:

FRONT BACK
Loop ( loop straight &
symmetry) Loop ( loop straight)
Back Welt Pocket
Front Pocket ( pointed (No overlapping or
stitch proper) smiling)
Side Seam (no Back Rise (No
puckering & bend) Puckering)
Waistband Extension
(Extension shape Inseam ( No
proper) puckering)
J Stitch ( J stitch width Waistband (No
even) puckering)
Dart ( Dart to be
Crotch (Joint match) straight)
Bottom Hem (Hem Button Hole ( to be
Should be proper straight w.r.t. welt
Width even) pocket)

I collected a data related to quality issue are buttonhole missing, Fly Shape Improper,
Label missing, Bart tack improper, Loop finishing Improper, Button missing, bottom
puckering etc. on the trouser.
10
21-Jul-17
9
22-Jul-17
8 23-Jul-17

7 24-Jul-17
25-Jul-17
6
26-Jul-17
5
27-Jul-17
4 28-Jul-17

3 29-Jul-17
30-Jul-17
2
31-Jul-17
1
01-Aug-17
0 02-Aug-17
BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT

Figure 1.0

3.5
21-Jul-17
3 22-Jul-17
23-Jul-17
2.5 24-Jul-17
25-Jul-17
2
26-Jul-17
27-Jul-17
1.5
28-Jul-17
29-Jul-17
1
30-Jul-17

0.5 31-Jul-17
01-Aug-17
0 02-Aug-17
LABEL PLACEMENT OUT

Figure 1.1
6
21-Jul-17

5 22-Jul-17
23-Jul-17

4 24-Jul-17
25-Jul-17

3 26-Jul-17
27-Jul-17
2 28-Jul-17
29-Jul-17
1 30-Jul-17
31-Jul-17
0 01-Aug-17
PKT BARTACK MISPLACED / SLANT

Figure 1.2

10
21-Jul-17
9
22-Jul-17
8 23-Jul-17

7 24-Jul-17
25-Jul-17
6
26-Jul-17
5
27-Jul-17
4 28-Jul-17
3 29-Jul-17
30-Jul-17
2
31-Jul-17
1
01-Aug-17
0 02-Aug-17
CROTCH FINISHING IMPROPER

Figure 1.3
9
21-Jul-17
8
22-Jul-17
7 23-Jul-17

6 24-Jul-17
25-Jul-17
5
26-Jul-17
4 27-Jul-17
3 28-Jul-17
29-Jul-17
2
30-Jul-17
1
31-Jul-17
0 01-Aug-17
LOOP FINISHING IMPROPER / SLANT

Figure 1.4

9
21-Jul-17
8
22-Jul-17
7
23-Jul-17
6 24-Jul-17
5 25-Jul-17

4 26-Jul-17
27-Jul-17
3
28-Jul-17
2
29-Jul-17
1 30-Jul-17
0 31-Jul-17
MISSING OPERATION

Figure 1.5
9
21-Jul-17
8
22-Jul-17
7
23-Jul-17
6 24-Jul-17
5 25-Jul-17

4 26-Jul-17
27-Jul-17
3
28-Jul-17
2
29-Jul-17
1 30-Jul-17

0 31-Jul-17
FLY BARTACK SLANT

Figure 1.7

8
21-Jul-17
7 22-Jul-17
23-Jul-17
6
24-Jul-17
5
25-Jul-17

4 26-Jul-17
27-Jul-17
3
28-Jul-17
2 29-Jul-17
30-Jul-17
1
31-Jul-17
0
1-Aug-17
BACKRISE SHAPEOUT

Figure 1.8
 Total Defect per month
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0 Total Defect per month
EXTENSION & FLY BUTTON…

LOOP FINISHING IMPROPER /…

BACK PKT POINTED UNEVEN /…

SADDLE STITCH SKIP / OPEN /…

BACKRISE SHAPEOUT
BOTTON PUCKERING
SERGING OPEN

SIDESEAM PUCKERING
CROTCH FINISHING IMPROPER

SEAM MERGIN UNEVEN

PINTACK OPEN

SIDESEAM SKIP

W/B SHAPEOUT / OPEN

BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT

FLY BARTACK SLANT

W/B HEM IMPRPER

W/B PUCKERING

B / PKT OVERLAPPING & SMILING

MISSING OPERATION
LABEL PLACEMENT OUT

BOTTON HEM WIDTH UNEVEN

BOTTON HEM OPEN SKIP

DITCH STITCH VISIBLE / OPEN

PKT BARTACK MISPLACED / SLANT

Figure 2.0

I observed the defects data of trouser. I found high pick of defect are improper loop
finished, missing operation, Waistband shape out, pocket Bartack, side seam skip, etc. All on
the monthly basics defects analysis. I analyse these top five defects of trouser on the
monthly basic

TOP FIVE DEFECTS OF THE MONTH

NO. OF
PROBLEM DEFECTS
Loop Finishing Improper 80
Waistband Shape out 46
Back Pocket overlapping 49
Missing Operation 51
Back rise Shape out 44
Top Five Defects Causes, Remedies:

Defects Causes Remedies

Measure/ cut correct length

Loop Finishing Improper
Improper Length Of Loop of loop according to
specification

Mark correct position to

Improper placement of loop waistband for loop,

Due to ironing is too heavy,

Improper pressing of loop there might be shining mark
on loop

The pressure of pressure

Incorrect pressure of foot tension foot must be adjusted
accurately.

Improper threads tension Thread tension must be kept

in limit

Unskilled Operator Provide training of specific

operation

Waistband Shape out Incorrect pressure of foot tension The pressure foot must be
adjusted accurately.
 After marking on waist must
Incorrect marking of waistband be ensure the marking
position

To ensure the correct

Incorrect pattern/ Cutting measurement of waistband
before waistband joining

Improper Handling Waistband finished should

be checked properly.

Improper threads tension The tension of thread should

be adjusted

Incorrect length of waistband To ensure the correct length

of waistband according to
requirement

Improper ironing of waistband There might be creases and

crinkles on garment surface
and if ironing is too heavy,
there might be shining mark
on garment
 Unskilled Operator Provide training of specific
operation

Improper feeding To join waistband with

proper handling and
Machine feed mechanism
must be better.

Incorrect marking To ensure the making of

back pocket before stitching
to operators.

Incorrect pattern/ cutting To ensure the welt of

dimension and shape before
attached welt pocket

Improper handling Each Operator should have

Missing Operation to check operation are
finished

Unskilled Operator Provide training of operation

are doing to operator

Back rise Shape out

Improper tension of pressure The pressure foot must be
 foot adjusted accurately.

Incorrect pattern/ cutting To check the proper

dimension of the pattern of
back rise

Improper handling of material To ensure the proper shape

of the back rise to operator

Others

Garment Defects Cause Due to:

 Garment defect caused by needle break

 Garment defect caused by bobbin threads tension
 Garment defect caused by low efficiency worker
 Garments defects caused by low skills workers
 Garment defect caused by improper handling
 Garment defect caused by completion of bobbin thread
 Defect causes due to alteration of garment
 Garment defect causes due to shuttle problem of machine
 Garment fit issue due to improper pattern
 Garment bad odour due to washed not properly.
Guideline of Inspection Procedure for Trouser
Basic requirement for inspection
Process of Inspecting a Trouser:

Name Description

To Check the front side of the trouser in side seam position, Pleat,
pocket opening, zipper attaching and fly. Check pocket construction
Front and pocket bag. Match number of all parts. Clean over lock
finishing. Check waist with pattern. Check for strike through, strike
back, puckering, lose stitch, broken stitch.

To check the back side of trouser. To check align back with waist,
dart position and construction, button hole, button placement and
Back bar tack, pocket bag and labels. To Check puckering, lose stitch,
broken stitch. Side Seam: Match front and back.

To Check crotch joint and zip attach should have two stitch lines,
loops quality and placement, waistband attach, width of waistband,
Waistband notch to notch match. Check belt closing and extension, hook and
eye alignment. Check fly and both fly top stitch. Check back seam,
waist measurement and size labels.

Side Seam To check the stitch quality of seam, to check If found puckering,
skip stitch, uneven side seam

Inseam To check the stitch quality of seam, to check If found puckering,

 skip stitch, uneven in seam

Main Label To check the main label placement, Dimension, Name, Stitch, etc.

Waistband To check the quality of button, placement of button, wrong button,

Button size of the button, etc.

Waistband To check the stitch quality of button hole, Missing button hole,
Button Hole uneven button hole, etc.

To check the shape and size if the pocket, to check the open flap of
Welt Pocket pocket

Welt Pocket To check the proper attached button in welt pocket,

Button
Welt Pocket
Button Hole To check the button hole of size and stitch quality

Welt Pocket
Bartack To check proper Bartack on welt pocket

Front Rise To check the length of the front rise, skip stitch, puckering, etc.

Extension &
Fly Button To check the correct attachment of fly button
 Misplaced
Label
Placement To check the label position placement
Out
Pocket
Bartack To check the pocket bar tack missing, misplaced
Misplaced
Crotch
Finishing To check the proper joining point of crotch should be straight
Improper

Loop Finishing
Improper To check the shape and size of loop, numbers of loops, placement
of loop, stitch quality of loop.

Bottom Hem
Width Uneven To check the bottom hem shape, uneven size, puckering, skip stitch,
color fad,

Serging Open
To check the proper serging in seam,

Pin tack Open

To check the Pin tack attached on under waistband
Back rise
Shape out To check the shape and size of the back rise.

Seam Margin
Uneven To check the proper seam margin
Back Pocket
Overlapping To check the back pocket placement
 Missing
Operation To check the any operation missing like button attach, button hole,
slider, Pin tack, etc.
Reference:

https://www.jackjones.com/it/en/jj/clothing/trousers/joggers/tailored-sweat-pants-
12115454.html?cgid=jj-trousers-sweat

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/301789034_QUALITY_MANAGEMENT_IN_GARMENT_IN
DUSTRY_OF_BANGLADESH

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/08/quality-control-system-in-garments_2589.html

http://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/bitstream/10603/2895/7/07_chapter%201.pdf