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SolarCoolTM Panel and its connections to air conditioners

SolarCoolTM Panel installation and its connection to air conditioners

SolarCoolTM is the combination of a state-of-
the-art high-efficiency air conditioning system
with a proprietary Solar Thermal Collector
Panel, creating the most energy-efficient air
conditioning system available today! The key
element is the integrated solar thermal
collector super heating the air conditioning
system’s refrigerant, which in turn reduces the
compressor’s required work load. This then
lowers the overall power consumption of the
system, saving energy and money up to 60%
compared to non-solar systems.

SolarCoolTM…The Hotter it
Gets, The Better It Works!
This print is in black/ white. You may see the colored version as pdf on:
Table of Contents

Topic Page
1. Product Overview 3
2. Site & Equipment Preparation 7
3. Installing the Rack System 8
3.1. Tiled roofs 8
3.2. Tiled Roofs + 30° triangle 10
3.3. Wall Mount 11
3.4. Flat Roof/ Ground Mount 11
4. Connecting the Solar Panel to the Air Conditioner SWM/CMO/SLC 13
5. Trouble Shooting 17

The installation shall be only performed by trained and skilled service
personnel having the appropriate instruments. SolarCool does not take
over any responsibility for direct and indirect damages caused by
installation from unskilled and untrained persons.

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 1 09/2013

Installation Overview – 4 steps to your success

1. Install SolarCool panel

and piping to outdoor

2. Modify outdoor unit,

install and connect it
to the solar panel

3. Install indoor unit and

connect it to outdoor

4. Run and Test

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 2 09/2013
1. Product Overview
How does Solar Air Conditioning from SolarCool work ?
 Refrigerant arrives at the compressor as cool, low-pressure gas
 Compressor compresses refrigerant creating pressure and raising the refrigerant’s
 Refrigerant leaves compressor as hot gas and flows into the solar panel
 Function of the solar panel: It helps increasing the refrigerant’s temperature
 Hot gas enters condenser coil and starts cooling down, thus returning to a liquid state.
 The liquid enters the expansion valve, where the pressure declines. From there the liquid
moves forward to the evaporator and evaporates as gas.
 The evaporation process removes heat from its environment, thus cooling the environment
 From there the refrigerant is sucked by the compressor and a new cycle starts

Solar Thermal Collector Panels

Using solar energy
The working principle of a solar thermal heating system: The glass tubes of the collector receive solar
radiation, and as a result they heat up the refrigerant flowing through it. No fuel or electricity is used during
this process, and so there are no CO2 emissions, thus no environmental pollution.

Solar Thermal Collector Panel Design

Refrigerant enters through a copper inlet header and travels down the U tube piping in the solar collector
heat transfer tubes. The refrigerant is heated up in that tube by absorption of the sun. It returns then to the
discharge header and leaves the solar panel.

Cut-a-way View and Flow Diagram of Panel Design:

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 3 09/2013

Vacuum tubes
A vacuum by removing air from a glass container achieves excellent insulation, a principle which has been
well known for a century and e.g. applied in thermos. By using this type of insulation, the thermal collectors
are able to improve the conversion of solar energy even in between seasons and in wintertime. A special
multi-layer metallic paint called CERMET, is applied to maximize the absorption of solar energy. Inside the
glass vacuum tube lies a copper pipe formed into a U-shape with aluminum thermal conductors to
transfer the solar energy from the inside wall of the glass vacuum tube to the copper refrigerant lines.
The refrigerant flows into each copper pipe, which is connected in parallel to the upper part of the panel.

Vacuum tube
Vacuum tube
Aluminium fin Aluminium fin Hot terminal
Hot terminal

Cool terminal

U-type copper branch Cool terminal

Dimensions and weight

1. Bi-Directional Aluminum Header

Panel Dimensions
2. Brass Header Connectors & Fittings
Height 120mm
3. Header Tube Insert Rubber Rings
Width 1 620 mm
4. High Impact Glass Evacuated Tube
Length 1 640 mm
5. Reflective Aluminum Panel
Tube Dimensions 6. Aluminum Box Frame 25 x 25 x 0,06 mm C-Channel
Length 1 500 mm 7. Evacuated Tube Threaded End Cap Stainless Steel
Diameter 47 mm Support Plate 0,06 mm Thickness
Weight 61 kg 8. Bi-Directional Aluminum Header

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 4 09/2013

Installation options

Standard Roof
Mounting System
Tile roof

Roof mounted
+30° for roofs
with low slope

Several Panel Mounting Kit options Flat Roof

to ensure maximum efficiency Mounting System

Wall mounted

Mounting System

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 5 09/2013

Installation Kits
Install Kit “Pitch” SAE-PITCH Pitched Roof
Install Kit “Pitch+30° SAE-PITCH30 Pitched Roof + 30° triangle for low roof slopes
Install Add-on “Snow” SAE-SNOW 2 more brackets for roof installation in regions with high
snow load (>= zone 3 and > 1200 m sea level)
Install Kit “Flat” SAE-FLAT Flat Roof
Install Kit “Ground” SAE-GRND Ground Mount (same as for Flat Roof)
Install Kit “Wall” SAE-WALL Wall Mount
Install Kit “Wall+30” SAE-WALL30 Wall Mount + 30° triangle for better sun inclination


The Rail is suitable for most residential applications. It is manufactured in a

mill finish, made of tough extruded aluminum. It has been tested to withstand
severe weathering conditions and will provide years of trouble free‐service.

The Mounting Brackets are designed for roof and wall mount installations.
They are made of 5mm thick stainless steel, contain holes for assembly with
lag screws and are manufactured in a mill finish. They may be used for roof
and wall attachment.

Rail Mounting Configuration - e.g. Roof

Snow load
The installation kits for roof mounting are designed for snow load zone2 according to EN 1991-1-3
(Eurocode 1 - Actions on structures - Part 1-3: General actions - Snow load) and a height of max. 1.000 m
above sea-level. If your location exceeds these limits, please check with your local building authorities and
engineers, how many of the Add-on Kits “Snow” you need. Most typically 2 additional brackets would fit (in
total 6 brackets per panel), but SolarCool gives no guarantee for withstanding your snow loads. Please
check your local building authorities.

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 6 09/2013

Installment preparation
The following tasks shall be carried out before the installation of the solar panel:
 A preliminary site-walk through is done to examine the current air-conditioning system and
lay out
 A load calculation is performed making sure the proper sized equipment is being installed
 When a duct system exists, a duct static pressure test must be performed to making sure
the ducting has the proper size for the foreseen equipment (static pressure). This does not
apply for the ductless Single and Multi Split systems
 A proper placement of solar panel and routing of the refrigerant lines is located (SolarCool
recommends no more than 15 m of additional piping (Ø 1/2 “) is being installed for the solar
 A check-up with the roof owner is made to approve necessary modifications (esp. flat roofs)
Depending on the type of application, the installation of
the panels may take 3 to 6 man hours additionally to the
overall time.

When receiving the Solar panel do a visual inspection to make sure there
is no damage to the panel before accepting the delivery. If the panel
shows any signs of shipping damage* do reject the delivery and request
the wholesaler to replace the panel. SolarCool will not accept
responsibility for errors and malfunctions caused by the installation of
damaged panels.
* damage like silver powder residue at the bottom of the tube

Installing the air conditioner

Install the air conditioner per standard installation process, as described in the separate installation guides
for these systems.

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 7 09/2013


Check your local building codes for the requirements of your rack
installation, i.e. wind load and snow load. Check if the supplied kit fulfills
these requirements. SolarCool does not take over responsibility for
damages due to neglect of local building codes or wrong assembly.

3.1. Tiled roofs

Step 1
Locate the appropriate four corners of the brackets according to the drawing. Up to snow load zone 2
one bracket per corner is sufficient. If your location exceeds these limits, please check with your local
building authorities and engineers, how many of the Add-on Kits “Snow” you need. Most typically 2
additional brackets ( as shown in drawing in hatched brackets) would fit (in total 6 brackets per panel),
but SolarCool gives no guarantee for withstanding your snow loads. Please check your local building

Step 2
Pick up the tiles at all identified corners (upper and lower row!). Make
sure, that the brackets can be screwed to the truss of the roof. The
given horizontal distance of 1 200 mm is approximate and varies with
the distance of the rafters. The brackets shall lie under the solar panel.
If the horizontal distance exceeds 1 200mm, add an additional brackets
in between the outer brackets. Start now at the upper row.
Remove raisings on the surface of the tile so that the bracket will not
crack the tile.

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 8 09/2013

Step 3
Remove raisings on the back face of the tile so that the bracket will not
crack the tile.

Step 4
Predrill the rafter for the lag screws (M8) with Ø 4 mm driller.

Step 5
Screw the bracket with minimum 2 lag screws and a minimum length of
60 mm into the rafter. Use additional layers between rafter and bracket,
if you need to elevate the bracket from the rafter

Step 6
Put tile back and check if bracket does fit well. Tile shall not be
damaged and distance between upper and lower tile not too big.
Otherwise snow would be able to penetrate between the tiles and cause
wetness beneath the roof. (especially on roofs with low slopes)

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 9 09/2013

Step 7
Screw the rail onto the upper brackets. Check if the rail is tightly
Measure the distance to the lower row (Ca. 1 320mm) and mount
the lower brackets plus rail accordingly

Step 8
!!!! Lay the panel on the rails making sure the header with its
connecting pipes being positioned lower than the black end caps
of the tubes. This avoids oil traps in the U-bendings of the copper
pipes within the solar panel !!!
Mounting the panel in an upside-down position is unique to our
application of using it for refrigerants. Solarthermal panels heating
up only water don’t have to care about this positioning, but panels
with refrigerant flowing through them do have to care.

Step 9
Mount the solar panel at its left and right C-profile onto the rails .
Handle the panel ONLY at the C-Profile and NEVER on the glass
tubes. They would break.

3.2. Tiled roofs + 30° triangle

Same procedure as for standard sloped roof until step 7
Step 8
For snow load zones 1-2 you need 2 triangles. For snow load zone 3
and higher you need an additional triangle in between the 2 triangles
Mount the triangle’s bottom leg onto the rails situated on the roof. Screw
2 horizontal rails on the triangle’s upper leg as shown in the picture on
the right.
Check if all distances are ok and all connections are tight.

Step 9
Mount the solar panel’s left and right C-profile onto the upper horizontal rails, as shown in chapter 3.1 .
The header shall lay lower than the black end caps of the tubes. Handle the panel ONLY at the
C-Profile and NEVER on the glass tubes. They would break.

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 10 09/2013

3.3. Wall Mount
Same procedure as for roof mount, only the brackets will be mounted to the walls. Make
sure to use dowels and screws which are certified according to your local building codes.
The header shall be positioned at the bottom, while the tube’s black end caps are facing
If you have outer walls with mineral wool or styrofoam insulation you need:
 special blocks, which can take up the weight of the solar panel and are inserted at
the assembly point,. They are provided by the manufacturer/wholesale who delivered
the isolation blocks for your wall isolation. These blocks need to have the same
thickness as your insulation Read the manufacturer’s manual on how to install.
 longer screws which can bridge the thickness of the isolation layer. Keep in mind that
these screws need to be larger than standard screws depending on the isolation
thickness. Check with local engineers for diameter and method of assembly in the

3.4. Flat Roof/Ground Mount

Flat roof assembly and ground assembly are the same. They differ only in the method of how the lower
rails are attached to the bottom. For flat roof assembly the lower rails are normally covered by heavy
weights to withstand the wind load, while ground assembly uses ground screws to fix the mounting kit to
them. Screwing into flat roofs is not recommended, since leakage of the roof is a common found result.
Step 1 Unpack the components:
Long leg plate

Short horizontal leg plate

X-bars L-tilt angle

Horizontal bars

Step 2
The header shall be at the bottom, while the tube’s black end
caps face upwards. This avoids oil traps in the U-bendings of
the panel.
Screw the small adjustable tilt angles to the header of the

Step 3
Put up the panel on the lower angles, raise it up at an angle
higher than 50° and place a support beam under the upper rail.
So the panel will not come down again. This gives you enough
space to mount the longer legs at the rear end of the panel
Step 4
Mount the corner plate on the top of the long leg. The long
edge of the plate is parallel to the 45° cut-off from the rail

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 11 09/2013

Step 5
Mount the L tilt angle at the lower end of the rail
Step 6
Assemble the shorter legs perpendicular to the long leg

Step 7
Connect the longer legs to the solar panel at the black end
caps of the tubes. You will be required to drill one more hole for
the triangle plate, since we mount the panel upside down
Step 8
Assemble the X-cross between the longer legs at the rear side.
Assemble the smaller support beams between the longer legs
and the C-profile at the left and right side of the panel
Step 9
Remove the support beam and lower the panel with its long
legs carefully on the bottom

Step 10
Lay one long rail (1 700 mm) beneath the plates of the left legs
(short at the front and long at the rear). Make sure that the long
rail exceeds the legs on both sides equally. Screw the plates to
the rail
Lay one long rail (1 700 mm) beneath the plates of the front
legs (short at the front). Make sure that the long rail exceeds
the legs on both sides equally. Screw the plates to the rail

Step 11
Repeat step 6 for the right side or respectively for the back side
Step 12 - Flat roof
Place appropriate weights on the rails laying on the bottom. Make sure they are heavy enough and do
not fall off the rails. Fix them to the rails
Step 12 - Ground
Place appropriate weights on the rails laying on the bottom. Make sure they are heavy enough and do
not fall of the rails. Fix them to the rails - or
Mount the bottom rails to anchors provided in the ground. Make sure that no corrosion will occur
between steel anchors and aluminum rails by using rust prohibiting liquids

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 12 09/2013

Ductless Split series SWM/CMO - Piping the Panel to the Air Conditioner
1. Connect refrigerant removal tool to the valves.
Measure current static pressure of refrigerant in
system. Write it down – You will need it later!
2. Recover the systems refrigerant into a cleaned
recovery cylinder (recommended vacuum to 0,001
bar or lower). It will later be reinstalled back into
the system.
3. Remove cover lid (screws) and eventually sensor
for outdoor temperature (transparent tube) at
4. Remove front cover (Srews at front and left) and
tear upwards. Remove plastic side cover (screws
and tear down) and metal side cover (screws and
tear up).

5. Remove felt protectors around the compressor.

6. How to determine the best cut position of the
copper pipe: Start at the 4-way valve and take that
side where only one pipe comes out (A). Follow
that pipe with your finger to the compressor
passing the filter (B) and a temperature sensor (C)
until you hit the compressor discharge/exit (D).


7. The best cut position is at this pipe between the
compressor’s discharge/exit and the entry into the
4-way valve. Cut either before or after the filter,
what is more convenient for you.
8. Unclip the sensor (C). If the electronic box and
magnetic actuator of the 4-way valve are too close
to the cutting point, dismount them too!! So you
won’t harm them during cutting and brazing. Mark
all plugs with a water proof pen before you unplug
them, e.g. 1–1 for one plug on both cables, 2–2
for next plug. Then you will be sure to re-plug the
cables correctly. Hang the wires away for shelter
and make sure not to break them.

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 13 09/2013

9. Determine where the extended pipes shall leave
the condenser box to the solar panel – through the
lower side or bottom. If possible go through the
bottom, since this allows for an easier mounting of
the vertical cover box. If you have to go through
the vertical cover box, make sure you are still able
to mount the cover after having connected the
10. Drill the holes with an
extended driller or a sink
cutter, which is also used
for cutting holes for a
faucet into a metal sink.

11. Cut the pipe at the identified position (e.g. here B).
Deburr the cuts and clean the inside and outside !
12. Bend the pipes near to the holes made in the
casing. Use a bending spring !!! NO KINKS !
If you do not you have a high
risk to create a kink, which is
definitely not acceptable. If
you made a kink, remove it.
B If you don’t, the system will
not work properly.
13. Take 1/2“ copper pipes (certified for refrigerant
purpose) and provide for respective length from
the cut position to the outside. The diameter of the
new copper must be min. 1/2 “ !
14. Make all necessary bendings in the two copper
pipes before brazing. Do it for both ends
respectively. Slip the pipes on without brazing.
Check if the new piping made does not collide
with the terminal plate, the electronic box, actuator
of the 4-way valve (all the things you have
disassembled and will lateron need to mount

15. Slip off the copper pipes and clean them for
brazing. Put the first pipe on again. Make sure that
the new pipe slips on well. Don’t forget eventual
swedging and to put the nut flange on the other
B end of the copper pipe.
16. Apply Nitrogen to the piping (A) and turn on a
small volume flow.
A 17. Shelter the backside of the brazing position with a
heat shelter (B) to avoid any damages to the
piece-parts around it.

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 14 09/2013

18. We highly recommend to braze using a high
temperature welding flame (oxygen + acetylene)
instead of yellow propane gas. The pipes get hot
much faster, the quality of the brazing is better
and you have much less risk of a leakage – all of
this making your installation faster.
Brazing rods must contain min. 15% Silver

19. If the modification of the condenser unit has not been done at the unit’s final place, e.g. a work bench,
perform a leakage test with the condenser unit itself before moving it. Apply min. 10 bar nitrogen to the
condenser unit, let it sit for at least 60 min, check for pressure loss and check the brazing with a
liquid/soap mixture or other suitable material. This will avoid unnecessary moving and second work on
your side lateron.
20. Clip the removed sensors at the same location from where you have removed them. The temperature
sensor next to the compressor’s discharge has to be placed BEFORE THE CUT !! Re-assemble all
other parts which you have removed: electronic box, sensors, case crank heater, electric terminal plate
21. Lay the refrigerant piping, starting from the newly made copper pipes coming out of the condenser unit
going to the solar panel (to and from). Use copper pipes with min. 1/2” diameter, which are certified for
refrigerant usage. First connect them with the pipes at the condenser unit: brazing, pressing or with
threads and valves.
22. Connect the refrigerant pipings with the pipes coming out of the solar panel (brazing or pressing).

23. In the case the solar panel has a brass thread:

Modify the copper pipe until it fits well into the inner
side of the brass thread. (swedging or use of
adapters). Not too much slack and not too tight !
Slip the pipe into the inner side of the brass thread.
Unscrew the header’s black plastic cover and move
it away along the copper pipe to prevent it from
getting damaged by later brazing.
Braze the copper pipe with the brass. If the foam
gets damaged, no problem.

Use the high temperature welding flame (oxygen + acetylene). Only this will create a
safe and tight joint. The brass sucks up much more heat than a normal copper pipe.
With the yellow propane gas as heat source you will have the high risk of getting a leak.
24. Fill nitrogen into the refrigerant circle and make a leakage test
! IMPORTANT. DO THIS ! 90% of problems with SolarCool units are related to refrigerant leaks at
the connections to and from the panel
24.1. Fill Nitrogen into the system and make a pressure test of the refrigerant system. Fill at least
20 bars of Nitrogen into the system to make a pressure test for at least 2 hours. If your bottle
gives only 10 bar, take these but extend the waiting time to more time. If possible let it sit
24.2. Apply water/detergent (1-5%) solution on the modified joints. When there is a leak you will
see bubbles immediately.

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 15 09/2013

25. Clean the pipes from applied water/detergent solution. Wrap thermal insulation around pipings to
and from solar panel.
26. Evacuate the refrigerant system (recommended vacuum to 0,001 bar or lower) at least for 2 hours.
The main purpose is to remove any moisture in the piping. Moisture is poison to the refrigerant and
will yield erratic running behavior of the air conditioner. If you still see steam coming out of the
vacuum pump, continue the vacuuming or fill again nitrogen into the system and repeat the
vacuuming. The vacuuming must be done meticulously and has the same significance as the
leakage test.
27. Charge the system (Cooling mode)
Every installation has its own heat loads and conditions. The primary objective is to air condition
the space, which will be guaranteed by the following method: We start with a starting charge and
fine tune afterwards:
The charging should be done in cooling mode. If this is not possible, see chapter 28.
27.1. Cover the solar panel with a tarp to enable charging.
27.2. Identify start-up charge:
Start with a static charge of 13 bar for the whole system (outdoor unit, indoor unit and solar
panel connected), measured at the service valve on the suction side and with the air
conditioner switched off. If you feel more comfortable with weights, take the charge in
grams as noted on the nameplate, add refrigerant for filling additional pipe lengths from the
condenser unit to the indoor units (as described in the installation manuals for the air
conditioners) and add 150 grams.
27.3. Connect the service valve of the condenser unit to your charge gauge, refrigerant bottle
and put the calculated charge amount into the system – gas, no liquid ! Filling liquid from
the bottle upside down may damage the compressor! Do a first charge and let the unit run
fulfilling the charging. If the charging proves difficult and you think you can not put enough
refrigerant into the system, charge it slowly and in various intervals with breaks of some
minutes in between. Switch off the air conditioner and check your static charge. Repeat
that until you have achieved the correct starting static charge.
27.4. Remove the tarp from the solar panel
27.5. Close all windows and doors of rooms to be cooled down to get a stable heat load
27.6. Switch on the air conditioner by using the remote control of the indoor units:
Set: temperature at 17°C, turbo mode, auto swing mode, auto fan mode on (all indoor units)
27.7. Measure power consumption (Amps) and temperatures at supply and return of indoor units.
Let it run for at least 2 hours to stabilize system. The air conditioner will now run with full
throttle to stabilize the refrigerant circle. After some time the supply temperature of the
indoor unit shall be at 12 - 13°C at a return temperature of 24°C. The power consumption
at the beginning is typically around 5 Amps per 3,5 kW cooling capacity (1 ton system) in
turbo mode. The aim is to a) cool down the room near to the set temperature and b) to
stabilize the refrigerant flow in the system.
27.8. Switch off the Turbo mode. Eventually switch off the air conditioner and set it on again to
be sure. Enter a set temperature of 23°C, with auto swing mode and auto fan mode on
(Important !) Note that a set temperature of 23°C typically correlates with a room
temperature of 21°C. The indoor unit’s sensor for the return temperature is placed mostly at
2 m and more above floor level. But since cold air falls down and hot air rises, perceived
room temperature is lower. (Measured at 1m above floor-level it is typically 2°C less, i.e. 21
°C) Place a room thermometer at 1 m above floor level to monitor the room temperature.
27.9. Measure power consumption (Amps) and set temperature and return temperature. The
return temperature shall go down to the set temperature. As the return temperature comes
close to the set temperature, the Inverter mode is supposed to kick in. This means the
compressor should lower its speed and power consumption shall go down to below 2 Amps
per 3,5 kW cooling capacity (1 ton system). This may take some time depending on the
heat load in the room. The supply temperature shall be at 12 °C.
27.10. Let the system run through the night to get stabilized.
04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 16 09/2013
27.11. Fine tune the charge next day:
Check if the room climate is stabilized. If not, create stable conditions. (doors, windows )
Check if air conditioner runs at inverter mode or is still in full throttle mode. If it is still in full
throttle mode, the air conditioner may be undersized and has for the existing heat load no
chance to achieve a stable room climate.
If supply temperature is too high, add more refrigerant (100 g steps).
If supply temperature is too low and consumption too high, release refrigerant into
recuperation bottle. Wait at least 20 min. after every change until the system has stabilized.
The aim is to achieve a supply temperature of appx. 12°C at a return temperature of 24°C
and to have the air conditioner run in Inverter mode. Only then the system may achieve its
increased efficiency through the solar panel.
28. Charge the system in heating mode (above 4°C outside temperature)
When ambient temperatures are too low and do not allow charging of system in cooling mode:
28.1. Calculate the starting charge as in chapter 27 and fill the system. Let the unit run, take
measurements and check if unit switches into Inverter mode according to chapter 27.
Fine-tuning needs to be done in cooling mode and shall be carried out when weather conditions will allow
for it.

The pipes to and from the Solar panel get HOT and may easily reach
temperatures up to 100° C. Wrap thermal insulation around them

5. Trouble shooting the system

5.1. Main problem leakage:
90% of problems with SolarCool units are related to refrigerant leaks at the connections to and from
the solar panel. If the unit is not cooling:
 Check for leaks in the connections to the solar panel and to the hot gas line from the
 Check all inline fittings (couplings, elbows, etc.). Make sure that it is daylight when you test the
5.2. Possible errors, causes and solution during installation
Error Solution
Cooling capacity degrades slowly over time Leakage in the system. Check static pressure
Power consumption rises slowly over time Check if heat load is constant. If so, check for
Shortly after first base charge air conditioner Check error code according to air conditioner ‘s
stops, although set temperature has not been manual. Most probably not enough first start-up
reached and error code on indoor unit display charge. Add some more refrigerant
Air conditioner runs all time at full speed and Check if air conditioner is capable to lower room
never gets to inverter mode. temperature down to set temperature. If not, the
air conditioner is undersized and you need to use
a bigger one.
If air conditioner may cool down the room to set
temperature and still does not enter into the
Inverter mode, the Inverter control does not work.
Contact your local supplier (Control, PCB or
compressor damaged)
See also error, causes and solutions in the installation manual of the air conditioner

04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 17 09/2013