MIXOLOGY

LOW-ABV

Sessionable Sippers The low-abv Miss Beaure-

garde (pictured left) at
Cindy’s is a beer-based
cocktail, while similarly
sessionable creations like
Drinks with lower alcohol content make for slow, steady and enjoyable drinking the Old Timer (top right)
at Myriad Gastropub and
BY SALLY KRAL the Tahini Martini (bottom
right) at Timna feature dry
vermouth as a base.

S
an Francisco’s Myriad Gastro- creative with the category. “The possi-
pub has a license to serve beer bilities are endless,” Toscano adds.
and wine, including fortified “There’s something really fun about
wine, but not spirits. The bar team is working with ingredients that are typi-
nonetheless determined to offer cally modifiers in a cocktail and
mixed drinks, but as lead bartender making them the main attraction.”
Stephen Swisher points out, creating
cocktails with these low-abv bever- Flavor Focus
ages required a bit more work: “There Though Myriad Gastropub can’t offer
aren’t really any standard session traditional distilled spirits, the cocktail
cocktails like an Old Fashioned or menu features various low-abv bever-
Martini, so you have to be creative ages, some of which have similar flavor
and try something new.” characteristics to spirits. “We use prod-
Myriad’s general manager Mark ucts that ring familiar but are a little
Finein adds that as a longtime bar- different, such as agave wine, which is
tender himself, he struggled with the as it sounds: a wine made from agave,”
“mental block” of not having the usual Finein says. “We also carry RJ Boone,
spirits to reach for, but he’s happily which is a fortified wine made from
adjusted over time. “Stephen has a oranges that’s aged in whiskey barrels to
more youthful approach and fewer give it smoky, Bourbon-like flavors.”
preconceived notions and has taught He adds that although the instinct Veeno is mixed with Ku soju, D’Arbo Elderflower syrup, house- Like Myriad Gastropub, Timna in New York City has a
me a lot about what you can do in this might be to make a traditional made juniper syrup, fresh lime juice, and muddled cucumber and license to sell only beer and wine, so all its cocktails are in
setting,” he says. “It’s not a limitation, Tequila-based or Bourbon-based cock- mint. “Just because we don’t have distilled spirits doesn’t mean the session category. “Our guests gravitate toward these types
but a chance to expand your knowledge At New York City’s Ousia, the Sherry Cobbler blends tail with these ingredients, it’s better to we can’t be creative with cocktails,” he adds. of drinks because they’re refreshing and elegant, and they
and explore new possibilities.” Sherry, orange brandy liqueur and orange. Complex think outside the box. “We try to avoid Indeed, even with the lower alcohol content, session cocktails complement our cuisine without overshadowing it,” says
Luckily for the folks at Myriad, wines like Sherry mix well in low-proof cocktails. just making a basic agave wine Margar- can still pack a flavor punch, especially with the addition of general manager Danielle Magen. “Our food menu is influ-
session cocktails—generally those that ita, for example, which would not be house-made tinctures. At Los Angeles restaurant and bar Cassia, enced by flavors from the Mediterranean, Asia, North Africa
feature ingredients with an abv of 25 percent or less—are becom- particularly creative or flavorful,” he says. “Without the alcohol the Blood Orange Rome with a View ($13) features Leopold and the Middle East. To match this in our cocktails, we use a
ing more popular as consumers seek out drinks they can enjoy bite of a distilled spirit, there needs to be more complexity added Bros. Aperitivo liqueur, lemongrass- and pineapple-infused Dolin lot of fresh and seasonal ingredients, including fruits and vege-
throughout an evening, without the risk of over-inebriation. to keep it intriguing.” Swisher’s Persephone’s On Fire ($11) is a Dry vermouth, house-made blood orange syrup and fresh lime tables like pineapple, watermelon, beets and cucumber, as well
“People have figured out that a night drinking nothing but spicy and flavorful take on the Margarita, featuring Veeno agave juice. At Cindy’s in Chicago, meanwhile, “spirit guide” Nandini as spices like cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, lavender,
Negronis and Manhattans isn’t going to last very long,” says wine, Cocchi Americano aperitif, pomegranate juice, house-made Khaund’s Miss Beauregarde ($12) is a beer-based cocktail compris- cayenne pepper and even raw tahini.”
Michael Toscano, head bartender at New York City restaurant jalapeño syrup and lime juice. ing Off-Color Brewing’s Apex Predator saison, lemon juice and Chef Nir Mesika created many of the drinks on Timna’s menu,
and bar Dante. “People have also become more sophisticated “With session cocktails, the base spirit you’re using is not house-made blueberry-ginger Demerara syrup. At The Board- including the Wicked Red ($14), which features a low-proof
PHOTO BY (LEFT) AJ TRELA

in their approach to drinking and are learning what it means only lower in alcohol, but also in intensity of flavor a lot of room in Los Angeles, lead bartender Christina Russo’s Gertrude vodka called Klir Red, as well as fresh beet and lemon juices and
PHOTO BY (TK) TK

to really enjoy a drink.” the time,” Swisher says, noting that a great way to add instant Stein ($14) blends Pimm’s No. 1 liqueur, Tuaca brandy liqueur, orange blossom water; and the Tahini Martini ($14), comprising
Even at bars with full liquor licenses, session-style cocktails are flavor and complexity to a session drink is to incorporate fresh lime juice, house-made hibiscus-rosehip syrup and San Dolin Dry vermouth, raw tahini, lime juice, house-made
taking up more space on menus as mixologists get increasingly house-made syrups and fresh juices. In The Freshie ($11), Pellegrino Limonata sparkling water. anise syrup and a date honey syrup imported from Lebanon.

74 M A R KE T WATCH | MA R KETWATC HM AG.C OM | NOVEMBER 2 017 NOV E M B E R 2017 | M AR K ETWATC H M AG.C OM | M ARKET WATC H 75
“One of the things we like most about another Italian bubbly session drink called His Salary Man cocktail ($12) mixes Enter.Sake Shuhari
session cocktails is that they’re the perfect the Negroni Sbagliato ($10)—or “Mistaken sake, Dolin Blanc vermouth, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur
option for those who want to have a few Negroni”—blending Cinzano 1757 Rosso and house-made lemongrass-grapefruit bitters, while his Sherry
cocktails over dinner, or those who want to sweet vermouth, Cappaletti bitter liqueur Cobbler ($11) blends Hidalgo La Gitana cream sherry,
start the evening with a cocktail and later and Corvezzo Terre di Marca Millesimato. Tempus Fugit Spirits crème de noyaux liqueur, Combier triple
switch to wine,” Magen says. “They can be “Our guests tend to go for cocktails that are sec, Super Judo pineapple syrup, orange marmalade and
complex without being too strong, both in light and refreshing, and there’s definitely a Angostura bitters.
terms of flavor and alcohol content.” correlation between a drink’s effervescence Johnny Livanos, beverage program director at Ousia in New
and its popularity,” Toscano says. York City, has his own take on the Sherry Cobbler ($13), featur-
Elegant Aperitifs Sparkling wine is indeed a common ing Lustau Los Arcos Amontillado Sherry, Torres Gran Torres
Bright and bubbly cocktails are always a ingredient in these lighter, aperitif-style orange brandy liqueur and fresh orange.
hit, notes Camille Ralph Vidal, global session drinks that are currently in such Though typically featured as a modifier
brand ambassador for St-Germain. She high demand. At Boa Steakhouse, which in classic cocktails, vermouth shines
notes the continued popularity of the has two locations in Los Angeles, the Floral when used as a base ingredient. Myriad
elderflower liqueur brand’s signature Bloom ($15) features Charles Lafitte Brut Gastropub’s Swisher notes that vermouth
St-Germain Cocktail, a blend of the Rosé Champagne and a foam made with is his favorite low-proof product to use in Aperitifs are increasingly used as base ingre-
liqueur, Champagne and sparkling water. Patz & Hall Chardonnay and St-Germain. session drinks, so he’s happy to see it dients in cocktails. Seaworthy’s Stranger Than
“Everyone loves this drink; it has no At Timna, former manager Amir Nathan’s “becoming more mainstream.” Lo-Fi Paradise (left) has a dry vermouth base, while
the Roman Holiday at Cindy’s (above) features
gender, no season,” she says. “It’s a light, Peace in the Middle East ($14) comprises vermouth, which is produced in Napa, is a foundation of amaro and Campari.
refreshing and balanced aperitif that Dolin Dry vermouth, fresh lemon juice, his preferred brand. His Old Timer cock-
perfectly embodies the low-abv cocktail house-made lavender syrup and Paul De tail ($13.50) features Lo-Fi dry vermouth,
category. These types of cocktails have Coste Blanc de Blancs Brut sparkling wine. Carpano Antica Formula sweet vermouth, “These products bring great, big flavors
Sparkling wine is frequently used in session-
delicate, nuanced flavors and can be able cocktails, like the Peace in the Middle Beyond sparkling, there’s a wide range of lime juice, house-made thyme syrup and to a drink, and fresh fruit and syrups help
sipped elegantly throughout the evening.” East, which also has vermouth, fresh lemon different, complex wines to choose from Angostura bitters. to balance the different nuances of those
The Aperol Spritz—which follows the juice and house-made lavender syrup. when making low-proof cocktails. “Sherry, “When I first began bartending in the ingredients. Adding a sparkling wine or
same basic recipe as the St-Germain Cock- sake and vermouth have been big favorites late ’90’s, the choices of vermouths were soda gives the whole drink texture,” Nguyen
tail but with Aperol aperitif in place of St-Germain and Prosecco of mine lately,” says Kevin Diedrich, owner of Pacific Cock- very limited. You had sweet and dry and adds. Her Stranger Than Paradise cocktail
favored over Champagne—is wildly popular right now. Dante tail Haven in San Francisco. “I try to stay away from pairing maybe three brands. Now there is an ($11) comprises Dolin Blanc, Giffard Elder-
offers a classic Aperol Spritz ($14), made with Aperol, Corvezzo them with citrus, as it tends to bury the delicate flavors of incredible variety of vermouths on the flower liqueur, lemon juice and house-made
Terre di Marca Millesimato Prosecco and soda water, as well as these spirits, but they’re otherwise so versatile to mix with. market spanning an amazing range of honey syrup, topped with a splash of Fever-
flavor profiles,” Myriad’s Finein notes. Tree Bitter Lemon soda and a spritz of
“Bartenders are making use of these and Kübler absinthe; and bartender Alison
Session Cocktail Recipes other new products and inventing more Kafka’s Napoleon Complex ($11) blends
intriguing combinations all the time.” Cocchi Americano Rosa aperitivo, house-
PEACE IN THE STRANGER THAN ROMAN HOLIDAY At Spoon and Stable in Minneapolis, made orgeat syrup, lemon juice and
MIDDLE EAST PARADISE By Nandini Khaund bar director Robb Jones created the Mistinguett Cava Brut.
By Amir Nathan By Lisa Nguyen Orchards and Orchids ($13), which Finein also loves amari, but notes that
Ingredients:
1 ounce Meletti amaro;
features Dolin Blanc vermouth, Roth- most brands are distilled and therefore
Ingredients: Ingredients: man & Winter Orchard Peach liqueur, house-made raspberry can’t be served under Myriad Gastropub’s license. “That’s why
¼ ounce Campari aperitif;
1½ ounces Dolin Dry vermouth; 1 ounce Dolin Blanc vermouth;
½ ounce fresh lemon juice; ½ ounce Giffard Elderflower liqueur; 1 ounce La Colombe Pure Black syrup, fresh lemon juice and chilled rooibos tea. I’m thrilled about a vermouth-based amaro like Cardamaro,
cold brew coffee; which adds a pleasing herbal bitterness from cardoon and
½ ounce lavender syrup1; ¾ ounce lemon juice;
¾ ounce pineapple juice;
Splash of Paul De Coste ½ ounce honey syrup2;
¾ ounce lime juice; The Bitter End blessed thistle, or Cocchi Dopo Teatro with its deep raisin
Blanc de Blancs Brut; Splash Fever-Tree Bitter Lemon soda; “I love amari and aperitifs that have spicy, herbaceous sweetness balanced with bitterness from rhubarb, quassia and
¼ ounce Demerara simple syrup;
Lavender sprig. Spritz Kübler absinthe;
Bunch of mint; Pinch sea salt; notes,” says Lisa Nguyen, bar manager at Seaworthy in New cinchona bark,” he says. The venue’s Forbidden Lowball ($13)
Cinnamon stick. Orleans’ Ace Hotel. “They’re great for adding depth and mixes Cardamaro with Crabbie’s alcoholic ginger beer, lime
Recipe: Orange wedge.
In a cocktail shaker, combine the
Recipe: complexity.” She notes that these types of spirits have long juice and Miracle Mile Forbidden bitters.
vermouth, lemon juice and syrup. Add ice Recipe: been favored among industry professionals and are becom- “I also like quinquinas like Byrrh, which features quinine as
TKAJ TRELA; (CENTER) GEORGINA ROSE
In an ice-filled cocktail shaker, combine
and shake. Strain into a Champagne flute. In a shaker, combine vermouth, liqueur,
Top with Blanc de Blancs and garnish with lemon juice and honey syrup. Dry shake amaro, aperitif, coffee, juices, simple ing more common in popular cocktails. The Outer Banks the major flavoring agent,” Finein says. “I’ve always been a fan
syrup and salt. Shake ingredients, strain ($11), created by Seaworthy’s consulting bar program of bitter or tart flavors to add brightness and depth to food or
a lavender sprig. and pour into a Collins glass. Top with
over crushed ice, and garnish with a
soda. Add crushed ice all the way to the
cinnamon stick. manager Lauren Schell, comprises Averna amaro, Carpano drink.” Swisher’s Byrrh-ning Man ($13.50) features Byrrh Gran
top in a dome-like shape. Garnish with Antica Formula sweet vermouth, house-made ginger syrup, Quinquina, Lo-Fi dry vermouth, Blandy’s Rainwater Madeira,
mint and orange wedge. Spritz with
absinthe for aromatics. lime juice, Angostura bitters and a splash of club soda. At lemon juice and Torani cherry syrup. “Our guests are often quite
Cindy’s, Khaund’s Roman Holiday ($15) mixes Meletti skeptical that session cocktails will have enough flavor,” he adds.
PHOTO BY (TK) TK

(TOP)

amaro with Campari aperitif, La Colombe Pure Black cold “Then they have one, say ‘Wow!’ and try two more.” mw
BY(TK)

1Boil
1 quart water, 1 quart sugar and 1 cup dried lavender for 5 minutes. Let sit for 24 hours, then fine strain.
brew coffee, Demerara simple syrup, pineapple and lime
PHOTO BY

2Mix
equal parts honey and water until honey is dissolved.
PHOTOS

juices, and a pinch of sea salt. Sally Kral is an Ithaca, New York–based freelance writer.

76 M A R KE T WATCH | MA R KETWATC HM AG.C OM | NOVEM BER 2 017 NOV E M B E R 2017 | M AR K ETWATC H M AG.C OM | M ARKET WATC H 77