REMOVAL of the Water Pump (WP) on my 1.

8 Tsi passat B6 (C2) – engine code BZB

Procedure is the same for 2.0TSi, golf MK6 or Skoda Octavia MK2
see here (passat):

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/passat_wagon/l4-
2.0l_turbo_(ccta)/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/cooling_system/water_pump/component_informatio
n/specifications/

and/or here (golf MK6):

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk6/power_unit/4-
cylinder_injection_engine_(1.8_and_2.0_l_engine_chain_drive)/engine_cooling/cooling_system/

The only difference across various cars/models is WP type/manufacturer, there are two:
1. INZI form factor (06H 121 026N...later evolved into AG) for my car/engine type
2. BEHR form factor (06H 121 026F) – I found this one in my car, so pump was replaced
before

So both pumps have the same interface to the rest of the car (coolant hose quick couplings, engine
block, temp sensor connector)...and the same thermostat opening temp 95 degC, both use the same
temperature sensor.

The differences are:

– thermostat housing and thermostat shape differ (can not interchange INZI for BEHR)
– way of attaching temp sensor to the pump body (latching mechanism) – INZI uses plastic
clip while BEHR uses metal plate with small bolt. The conseqence is that 2 bolts for fixing
the pump body to engine block near temp sensor (bolts 3 and 4 in figure below) differ in
length – INZI uses M6x22, while BEHR uses M6x28 (due to thickness of the metal plate)

– Hence if you are replacing pump of one type with the another one, like someone did in my
car (INZI out, BEHR in) make sure you have the right pair of M6 bolts (22 vs 28 mm length
for INZI vs BEHR respectively)
VAG recommends replacing entire unit (WP with body and thermostat and temp sensor). I found
that replacing only the pump (bolted to the body with five T30 bolts (M6x20) is perfectly OK, if
you observe that the pump started to leak via bleed/wheeping hole (becomes obvious when partially
removing WP belt cover).

I have in the end replaced only the pump (and have re-used the body)...however you have to take
off entire unit (pump + body) – no shortcuts (in procedure explained in the next pages) seems to be
possible. All O-rings/rubber gaskets should be replaced

Finally there is no need to take off intake manifold (as several threads I have found on the www
suggest).
1. Remove air filter box+pipe with MAF sensor....after usuall stuf (jacking up the front ...)

2. Remove boosted air intake pipe...see below:

Remove bolts 1 and 4....and uplug MAP sensor connector

On the intercooler side – disconnect quick coupling (fixed with retaining spring).
on the TB side loosen worm clamp 2 and pull of the whole assembly – remove from underneath

Pulling rubber hose from TB (at clamp 2) is not easy....such a tool helps a lot:

Proper way to unplug VAG connectors is to pull away tab (see below ) two methods

pulling in the red arrow dir also un-latches the connector.

In case of tight space (very often), you can use alternatively small wooden lever (see below)...lever
latch in the direction of red arrow and pull conn away at the same time (one hand action)
3. Unplug 3 connectors, slide them off the bracket (in blue below) and remove the bracket. Parkers
(black arrows) that go into plastic of the manifold should be ligtely torqued (4 Nm)

Also unplug two more connectors: the one to air inteke flaps control (above) and the one to
flywheel sensor (below)....use some electrical copper wire to tie up all connectors to intake
manifold (so they are out of the way to the pump).
I have also unclipped the wire loom from a bracket on the transmission side, to be able to tuck away
connectors even more upwards, out of the way.

4. Remove small coolant pipe

• (slide away hose clamps 1 and 4, and remove bolts 2 and 3 – torque 9Nm)
• First remove rubber hose at clamp 1 position (and the coolant will flow out
• When putting back the hoses to the small coolant pipe (after pump is replaced) use
petroleum-jelly for easire sliding back on (so they go back exactly where they were before).
Hose clamps (which are spring type) are reusable.

When using hose plyers like this one

Remove WP belt cover (2 bolts – 9 Nm) ...you can now see if the broken WP seal (leak via
wheeping hole) has caused the leak. In that case you need only new pump.

5. Loosen balance shaft sprocket bolt (it is REVERSE thread....so in order to loosen turn it
CLOCKWISE)

I have used this sort of wrench....size is 12mm, as the bolt is sunken a bit and space is tight.

You also need to counterhold cranckshaft (with socket 24mm)....to do so remove right front wheel
and the lower liner to be able to access cranchshuft 24mm nut. This makes this 2 men job.

Do not remove the balance shaft sprocket bolt ...just loosen so you can slide off the belt off the WP
sprocket.
Unless you want to change the belt (which I did). It is a bit of hassle to get the bolt back in the
balance shaft (trick is to use some small clamp to keep belt tight over the pump sprocket...so that
bal. Shaft sprocket falls in line with bal shaft (new belt is rather stiff and has little play).

In my case this was 2 men job too.

6. Disconnect TB connector 1 and remove TB (4 bolts...you need various extensions here) ...4
bolts are T30 and torque (when puting back) is 5 Nm. I have also replaced rubber gasket (TB to
manifold gasket)

Accesing TB bolts is easier if you unbolt two parkers (4Nm) that fix plastic pipes coming from
expansion tank to the intake manifold (in yellow below)

and big tripple square (M12 ) - 40Nm - fixing recirc pump bracket to the engine block

6. Finally release quick couplings from the collant hoses attachement to the pump (even more
coolant will leak out).
7. Unplug the temp sensor connector....(this is INZI type)....mine was BEHR, I just have unplugged
electrical connector (and left temp sensor in the WP body)

remove manifold support (nut 1 - torque 10Nm, tripplesquare 2, -torque 23 Nm)

and remove 5 bolts (torqued at 9 Nm) connecting coolant pump body to the engine block

When putting the pump back, the numbers above are represent the torquing sequence....torque all to
9Nm
Now use some force and patience to pull of the pump body off (probably stuck onto positioning
dowels (that are somewhat rusted) and the the small conn piece to the oil cooler (white piece in
photo below, discard it and use new one when mounting the pump back in)

When putting pump body back in (see drawing below) first insert conn piece 2 into oil cooler, and
then plug on WP (before that lubricate conn piece 2 O-rings with petroleum jelly)
If you are carefull when pulling pump body off, it will not crack in the upper area (if it does, you
need new one....I suspect that is the reason why VW recommend replacing entire thing).

Mine did not crack and I just have overhauld new pump to the same old body (tighten 5 bolts,
M6x20 to 9 Nm)

Before mounting new pump (with new gasket ofcourse)....

clean mating surface with very fine send paper (and positioning dowles too with more rough one to
remove rust so new pump slides easily ony those dowels). Red arrows point to the dowels.

VW says to use coolant to lubricate all rubber seals when assembling back...I used petroleum-jelly
as it makes all new fittings easire and smoother
8. One final handy note

Thermostat housing has two bolts...in case of INZI both are T30 size M6x18.

In case of BEHR one of the 2 is inner hex (socket head cap) like this...that would be bolt that is
closer to the engine block and is harder to acess from underneath.

If you use INZI type of pump body, I recommend replacing one of T30-s with“socket head cap”
allen bolt ….just make the sam arrangement as BEHR....see below

Purpose is to be able to remove/tigten it with “round head allen key”...that can grab it under
arbitrary angle upto 30 deg range (see below)

This makes it possible to replace thermostat (if it brakesin the future) with WP in situ....need only to
remove charged air pipe and oil separator (9 bolts T30 M6x18) – again 9 Nm – and remove
thermostat from underneath.
Drawing below shows the situation when replacing thermostat with WP in situ.
Oil separator is removed, bolt on the right side of thermostat housing should be preferably inner hex
(socket head cap) for easier removal :

Once again all WP + body parts:

INZI pum has clip 4, BEHR has metal plate 6 with bolt 5 (4Nm)
Thermostat bolts 23 are 9 Nm

Somewhat unrelated, link to intake manifold (torques)

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk6/power_unit/4-
cylinder_injection_engine_(1.8_and_2.0_l_engine_chain_drive)/mixture_preparation_system_electr
onic_inj.gas/injection_system/assembly_overview_intake_manifold/

Seems to require special (long reach) tool T10347 – cosider ordering together with T10058 that
comes good for thermostat removal.