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TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip
PAGE
PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

2 YOUR TRIP
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to Vietnam...... 2
20 Top Experiences ....... 6 Blessed with a ravishing
coastline, emerald-green
mountains, breathtaking
Welcome to
Need to Know ................. 18 Vietnam
national parks, dynamic
cities, outstanding cultural
interest and one of the

What’s New ..................... 20

world’s best cuisines,
Vietnam has it all.

If You Like... ..................... 21

COUNTRY
COUNTRY
COUN
Month by Month ............. 23 • The original
Itineraries ........................ 26 • Comprehen
Comprehensive
nsive
• Adventurou
Adventurous
us
The Vietnamese scams), but little real danger – on the
whole it’s a safe, wonderfully rewarding
Experience and incredibly varied country to explore.

Vietnam Outdoors ......... 30

Vietnam is a nation going places. Fast. Its
8 people are energetic, direct, sharp in com- A Cultural Smorgasbord
merce and resilient by nature. This is an This is a country of myriad inÁuences and
outrageously fun country to explore, the

Need to
locals love a laugh (and a drink) and you’ll
have plenty of opportunities to socialise
with them and hear their tales. The Ameri-
reference points. In the south, Indian and
Hindu culture had a lasting inÁuence in
the Cham temples and spicy regional cui-
sine, spiked with chilli and tempered with

Regions at a Glance ....... 36

can War is over, and yet its impact endures –

Know
coconut. Head north and Chinese con-
you’ll Ànd reminders of that cataclysmic nections are far more apparent. Between
conÁict everywhere you travel. That said, these two competing cultures, you’ll Ànd
the country was never broken and emerged a quintessential Vietnam in the central
with its pride intact. Poor in parts but provinces: the graceful historic old port of
never squalid, Vietnam is developing at
Currency Language
an astonishing pace. For travellers, there
Hoi An, and the royal tombs, pagodas and
imperial cuisine of Hue. Oh, and there’s
» Dong
are (d) Vietnameseminor
issues to consider» (including

When to Go Set Your

Budget
Warm to hot summers, mild winters
Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons Budget less than

Sapa #
US$40
by
GO Mar-May & Sep-Nov » Cheap hotel: US$10–
Hue Festival, June (bien 15 a night, dorms less

ce
#
Hanoi
GO Mar-May & Sep-Nov
» Eat in local, not
Western-style places
Wandering Souls Day, A

Month
» Get a taste for bia hoi
Danang Fireworks Fest » Can survive on as

Hanoi April
Buddha’s Birth,
#
Danang
little as US$15 a day
Midrange
GO Mar-Sep

Food 333
Enlightenment and Dea US$40–
ice of the 100
History 33
Vietnam Culture 33
» Comfortable double
room: US$20–50
Major religious festivals town involved. Increasingly Buon Ma
e peaks in Vietnam have lunar
dates; check against any
it’s become an international
event, with music and
z Coffee Fe
#
Ho Chi Minh City
GO Nov-Feb
» Eat and drink almost
anywhere
e-flat river Vietnamese calendar for fashion shows and a wine
CaՖeine cravers sho
make for the Centr
» Indulge in the odd
spa treatment
e-riddled Food the Gregorian dates. If you festival. lands during MarchHigh Season Shoulder Low Season
» Travel by taxi when
know when Tet kicks oՖ, Buon Ma Thuot pla necessary
ntral Discover – meal by tasty (Jul–Aug) (Dec–Mar) (Apr–Jun,

meal – that Hanoi is one of
ainforest
the planet’s great food cities.
simply count from there.
Special prayers are held at
Vietnamese and Chinese
SHOESTRING PHRASEBOOK
to an annual coՖ»ee Prices increase by » During the Tet Sep–Nov) Top End over
February Growers, grinders,up to 50% by the
coast; book hotels
festival, the whole
country is on the
» Perhaps the best
time to tour the US$100

• Big trips,
and addicts rub sho
er with some well in advance. move and prices rise. whole nation. » Luxury hotel room:
pagodas when the moon is North of Danang, chilly in the city’s main» All
p Vietnam, except
Dine in restored colonial full or a thin sliver. Many
» North of Nha Trang » Typhoons can from US$70
‘Chinese winds’ usually and local entertain
oductive rice- villas or contemporary ca- Buddhists eat only vegetar- mean grey, overcast provided.
the far north, is hot
and humid with the
can get cool weather.
Expect cold conditions
lash the central and
northern coastline
» Shop in smart
boutiques

at’s just the fes, or pull up a stool and

chow down on street food
classics like pho bo (beef
hern half noodle soup) or bun cha
ces a much
ian food on these days,
which according to the
Chinese lunar calendar, fall
on the 14th and 15th days
of the month and from the
last day of the month to the
small budgets
conditions. Conversely,
sunny hot days are the Saigon Cy
2 Race
• Multicountry
norm in the southern
provinces.
On your marks…get
dling. Ho Chi Minh

cuisine,
(barbecued pork and rice
vermicelli).
Àrst day of the next month. z Tet
Dan)
(Tet Nguyen

The Big One! Falling in late

fastest rickshaw dri
battle it out in their
wheeled chariots to
of the History
you head Explore the centuries-old
commercial labyrinth of the
more of a Old Quarter, before mov-
nut trees ing on to understand the

Looking for other travel resources?

o plants and tumultuous events of the
y sauce on 20th century, recounted in
fascinating detail at Hanoi’s
n provinces excellent museums.
and sticky,
Culture
, aromatic There’s a lot more to Hanoi’s
l l h b l

UNDERSTAND
PAGE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

425 VIETNAM Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

Vietnam Today................ 426

belief systems if Vietna
History ............................. 429 (% of population) 100 peop

People & Culture ............ 447 have been searching for their own MIAs in

Other Foreign Involvemen

37.4 31.9

Hill Tribes of Vietnam ..... 457 Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, the P
sent military personnel to South Vietnam a Buddhist Protestant

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE

86 would be Kinh (V

Architecture in
20.7 3 would be Thai and

1976 Catholic
9.4
Cao Dai
0.4
Other
2 would be Tay
2 would be Khmer K
1 would be Hoa (ethn
For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories,
6 would be others
advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas
Vietnam ........................... 467
The Socialist Republic
of Vietnam is
proclaimed as Saigon chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine
is re-named Ho Chi

Regional Specialities...... 477

and the key sectors of oil production, shi building, c
Minh City. Hundreds of
er are overnment controlled
housands Áee abroad,
including many boat

Food & Drink ................... 485 people.

Environment ...................
STAY IN TOUCH
492 » Ho Chi Minh portrait in the central post o՗ce, H
lonelyplanet.com/contact
AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/
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vietnam-11-cover.indd 2 3/11/2011 11:04:48 AM

 PAGE
ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

40 ROAD
In-depth reviews, detailed listings
and insider tips

Northeast
Northwest Vietnam
Vietnam p87
p116 Hanoi
p42

North-Central
Vietnam
p141

Central Vietnam
p156
Siem Reap and the
Temples of Angkor Central
p410 Highlands
p270
South-Central
Coast
p214
Ho Chi Minh City
Mekong p297
Delta
p352

Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor p410

SURVIVAL
PAGE VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

499 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Directory A–Z ................. 500

Transport ........................ 511
p
fal

Transport and

Health .............................. 523

Land
Vietnam
GETTING THERE (%3832 0320); HCMC (%3832
0320) The state-owned Áag
with Cam
Laos and
& AWAY

Language ........................ 528

carrier has Áights to 28 inter- border cr
Most travellers enter Viet- national destinations, mainly eigners w
nam by plane or bus, but in east Asia, but new routes a big imp
there are also train links from were announced to the UK ade ago.
China and boat connections and Australia in 2011. it is still
from Cambodia via the

Index ................................ 542

The airline has a modern Vietnam
Mekong River. Áeet of Airbuses and Boe- any of t
ings, and has a good recent
safety record. Bord
Entering Vietnam Exa
Airports ar

Map Legend .................... 551

Formalities at Vietnam’s
nternational airports are There are three established
erally smoother than at international airports in
orders, as the volume Vietnam. A fourth major
s greater. That said, international airport, in P
land from Cam- Quoc, should becom
now rela- operational in 2

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Iain Stewart,
Brett Atkinson, Peter Dragicevich, Nick Ray
› Vietnam Top Experiences ›
C H I N A
Sapa Lai Chau
Ha Giang
Atmospheric old French (Tam Duong) Lao Nanning
hill station (p125) Cai Bac Ha Ba Be Cao Bang
National Park
Sapa
Hoang Lien Ba Be Lakes
Muong Lay National Park Pingxiang
(Lai Chau) Fansipan
(3143m) H o Tuyen Lang Son
M Quang
Dien Bien
Phu
o ua n Yen Bai Thai
Tuan n g L Nguyen Mong Cai
Giao
ta i Dongxing
Tay Trang e
i n n Viet Tri
Son La s Bac Ninh Zhanjiang
Ba Vi Halong
Hanoi HANOI City Bai Tu
National
Captivating capital steeped Park Long Bay

(BURMA)
Hoa Binh Hai Haiphong Halong Bay

MYANMAR
in history (p42) Mai Chau
Duong Cat Ba Halong Thousands of amazing
Cuc Phuong Bay
LAOS National Park Thai Binh Island limestone islands (p94)
Nam Xoi Tam Ninh Binh
Na Meo Coc 20ºN
Thanh Hoa
Nong Nam Can
Phonsavan Haet
Hainan
Island
Gulf of (China)

Vinh Tonkin

VIENTIANE Cau
Treo Ha Tinh
Nam

Me
Phao Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP 18ºN

kon
g
Caves, rivers and outstanding
Ri
ve Cha Lo mountainous scenery (p151)
r Na Phao
Tha Khaek Dong Hoi
Phong Nha-Ke
Bang National
Park Hue
Lao Majestic former imperial
Bao Dong Ha
Dansavanh
capital (p163) Paracel
Islands
Khe Sanh Hue
 Savannakhet Bach Ma Danang
National Cham
Park Islands
Hoi An
THAILAND Hoi An
My Son Tam Ky
A delightful ancient port
(p190)
Pakse Quang Ngai
Attapeu
Bo Y SOUTH
Angkor Wat
One of the wonders CHINA
of the world (p418) Kon Tum SEA
Pleiku
BANGKOK 14ºN

Cen
CAMBODIA
Quy Nhon
Angkor Wat

tral
Siem Reap Yok Don
Battambang National
Tonlé Park
Sap Tuy Hoa

Nha Trang

H i g h l an
Buon Ma
Thuot Hedonistic beach party

ds

Mekong River
capital (p227)
Gulf of Cat Tien National Park
Nha Trang
Thailand Wildlife-spotting, hiking
and biking (p283) Dalat 12ºN
Cat Tien
PHNOM National
PENH Phan Rang &
ELEVATION Park Thap Cham
Kaam Samnor Tay Ninh
Vinh Xuong Cu Chi
1500m
Mui Ne
1000m
Takeo HO CHI MINH Bien Hoa
500m CITY (SAIGON) Phan Mui Ne
200m
Kampot Tinh Chau Long Hai Thiet Cosmopolitan beach and
Bien Doc Cao Lanh
0 watersport resort (p247)
Duong Ha Tien My Tho
Dong Long Ben Tre Vung
Xuyen Vinh
0 200 km Phu Quoc Rach Tau
0 120 miles Gia Can Tho Long Tra Vinh Ho Chi Minh City 10ºN
Island
Vietnam at its liveliest,
Mekong Soc Trang buzzing best (p297)
Mekong Delta Delta
Bac Lieu
Tradition-rich watery Ca Mau Con Dao
world (p352) Con Dao National
Islands Park
102ºE 104ºE 106ºE 108ºE 110ºE
26

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or

aries 60, these itineraries provide a

starting point for the trip of a
lifetime. Want more inspiration?
Head online to lonelyplanet.com
/thorntree to chat with other
travellers.

CHINA

BURMA VIETNAM
Cuc Phuong _ HANOI
#
É

National Park
#
÷#•
# Ninh Binh
•
LAOS Tam Coc
É

É
Hue
#
• SOUTH
# Hoi An
• CHINA
THAILAND SEA
É
É

CAMBODIA • Nha Trang

#
É

• Mui Ne Beach
#
É
•
#
Ho Chi Minh City

Two Weeks
The Great Ocean Road
Acclimatise in the capital, Hanoi; see the sights, wine and dine, take in a temple or
two and experience the Old Quarter’s street life. Then head to nearby Ninh Binh
for a couple of days. It’s the gateway to the striking scenery of Tam Coc and the
primates and trails of Cuc Phuong National Park. Next it’s a long train or bus
journey south to experience Hue, imperial and irresistible capital of old. Then head up and
over (or under) the mighty Hai Van Pass before hitting charming Hoi An, the perfect place
for some time out – sightseeing, shopping and sunning yourself on the beach. Enter Nha
Trang, the biggest and brashest beach resort in Vietnam, and try a hedonistic boat trip to
nearby islands. If that’s all too much, carry on south to Mui Ne Beach, a tropical idyll with
smart resorts, blissed-out budget options, towering dunes and crazy kitesurfing. Finish up
in Ho Chi Minh City, where you can indulge in sophisticated shopping, delectable dining
and the liveliest nightlife in the country.
 27

Bac Ha
CHINA
•#
Sapa #• VIETNAM
É
BURMA É HANOI
_É
# ‚ Halong Bay
• Cat Ba Island
#
LAOS Cuc Phuong # ÷#
•
Ninh Binh
National Park

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
É
É
Phong Nha-Ke Bang
National Park #
÷ #• Vinh Moc Tunnels
Hue

É
Khe Sanh Combat Base • #
#
•É SOUTH
• Danang
# É CHINA
#
• SEA
THAILAND • Hoi An
My Son #
• My Khe Beach
#

É
Doc Let Beach &

É
Dalat •
#
‚ Whale Island
#
•
Nha Trang
Tay Ninh É
#
•
Cu Chi Tunnels #
•
• Ho Chi Minh
#
É
City (Saigon)
Can Tho #
•

One Month
The Works
Run this one in reverse, and start out in the cauldron of commerce that is Ho Chi
Minh City. Spend three days hitting the markets, browsing museums and eating
some of the globe’s best cuisine. Take a day trip to discover wartime history at the Cu
Chi Tunnels and then carry on to Tay Ninh, headquarters of the Cao Dai religion,
and its fairy-tale temple. Dip into the Mekong Delta for a day or two. Stay at Can Tho,
the social and commercial heart of the region, and take to the water to cruise through the
floating markets. Head up into the central highlands to the romantic hill station of Dalat
to tour its quirky sights. Back down on the coast, the beach resort of Nha Trang has some
serious partying, boat trips, scuba diving and snorkelling. Ease you way up the stunning
central coastline stopping at beaches like Doc Let or My Khe when you fancy, visiting
Whale Island and taking in Cham ruins including My Son. Cultured charmer and culi-
nary mecca Hoi An is the next essential stop, before a quick look at booming Danang and
on to the old imperial capital of Hue and its citadel, tombs and pagodas. Take a day trip
to the former Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) where you’ll find famous sites from the American
War, including Khe Sanh Combat Base and the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Then head into the
hills to the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, a World Heritage site where the world’s
largest cave has been discovered. From here, follow the stunning Ho Chi Minh Highway to
the capital, stopping to see Cuc Phuong National Park and the surreal landscapes around
Ninh Binh. To the east lies Halong Bay, with more than 2000 limestone outcrops dotting
the scenic bay. Stop for a couple of days on rugged Cat Ba Island, an important adventure-
sports centre, before looping back to the capital. Arrive in time to catch the night train to
Sapa, unofficial capital of the northwest hill-tribe region and a beautiful base for hiking
and biking. Be sure to take a side trip to Bac Ha to catch its famous markets and tribal vil-
lages before the return journey to Vietnam’s intoxicating capital, Hanoi, and its evocative
Old Quarter.
28

JERRY ALEXANDER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

» (above) Street vendors selling

vegetables, Hanoi
PETER UNGER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

» (left) Tourist junks glide past a floating

village near Cat Ba Island, Halong Bay

Tram Ton Lao Cai
Pass #
• CHINA
c
• Sapa
#
Muong Lay #
• É VIETNAM
É
BURMA
Dien Bien Phu #
• É
Son La •
LAOS
THAILAND
CAMBODIA
Northwest Loop by Motorbike
Vietnam in a Week
Seven Days
Vietnam in a Week
Vietnam is a large, densely-populated
developing country where journeys
are slow. To get an overview of the
nation in a week you’re going to
have to take a couple of internal flights (or
overnight train journeys). Begin in Hanoi,
basing yourself in the Old Quarter, for a full-
on introduction. Hit the ground running,
spend a day touring the capital’s sights and
a night munching street food and sampling
bia hoi. Then take a day-trip to Halong Bay
for magnificent scenery and revitalising sea
air. Day three takes in a morning flight to
Hue and an afternoon exploring the impe-
rial citadel (with a good guide to make the
most of your time).
On day four bus, train or automobile
down to Hoi An, making sure you have din-
ner at one of the town’s sublime Vietnamese
restaurants. The following morning, soak
up Hoi An’s unique atmosphere and explore
its pagodas and temples on foot. If the sun’s
out, hit nearby An Bang Beach for a swim
later on. On day six it’s up to Danang air-
port and a flight to Ho Chi Minh City, for
a brief taste of Vietnam’s most dynamic city:
its fabled restaurants, nightlife and sights.
29
•
# HANOI
#
É
_
#
É
É
• Halong Bay
#
Mai
É
Chau
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
É
Hue
•
# SOUTH
# Danang
•
CHINA
• Hoi An
# SEA
É
É
# Ho Chi Minh City
•
10 Days
Northwest Loop by Bike
Northern Vietnam is a world unto it-
self, a land of brooding mountains, a
mosaic of ethnic minorities, a region
of overwhelming beauty. It’s ideal ter-
rain to cover on two wheels with light traffic,
breathtaking views and pretty decent paved
roads. Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai
Chau, home to the White Thai people, for
your first two nights; it’s a perfect introduc-
tion to the life of the minorities. Northwest
of here, where the road begins to climb into
the Tonkinese Alps, a logical stop is Son La.
Dien Bien Phu is a name that resonates
with history; it was here that the French co-
lonial story ended with defeat. Plan on two
nights here. Tour the military sights then
revel in the stunning alpine scenery to the
north, breaking the journey with a night in
Muong Lay. On day seven, climb over the
mighty Tram Ton Pass to Sapa. This is
the premier destination in the northwest,
thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day!),
an amazing array of minority peoples and
some of the region’s most colourful markets.
On your last day, head down to Lao Cai,
then let the train take the strain – load your
bike on a goods carriage while you slumber
on a sleeper berth back to Hanoi.
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their
favourite places are listed first
Look out for these icons:
oOur author’s top A green or No payment
recommendation Ssustainable option Frequired
HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
AROUND HANOI . . . . . . . . . . 83
Ho Chi Minh Trail
Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Perfume Pagoda . . . . . . . . . 84
Handicraft Villages . . . . . . . 84
Thay & Tay Phuong
Pagodas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Ba Vi National Park . . . . . . .85
Co Loa Citadel . . . . . . . . . . .85
Tam Dao Hill Station . . . . . 86
NORTHEAST
VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Ba Be National Park . . . . . 89
Con Son & Den Kiep Bac . . 91
Haiphong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
HALONG BAY . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Halong City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Cat Ba Island . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Bai Tu Long Bay . . . . . . . . .108
MONG CAI & THE
CHINESE BORDER . . . . . . 110
Mong Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Lang Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Cao Bang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Hang Pac Bo
(Water-Wheel Cave) . . . . . . 114
Ban Gioc Waterfall &
Nguom Ngao Cave . . . . . . . 115
NORTHWEST
VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 116
Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Mai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Son La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Tuan Giao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Pa Khoang Lake . . . . . . . . . 121
Dien Bien Phu . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Muong Lay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
Lai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
Lao Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
Bac Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
Ha Giang Province . . . . . . . 137
NORTH-CENTRAL
VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 141
Ninh Binh Province . . . . . .143
Vinh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
Around Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Phong Nha-Ke Bang
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Dong Hoi & Around . . . . . .153
CENTRAL
VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 156
Demilitarised
Zone (DMZ) . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
Dong Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Quang Tri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163
Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163
Around Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Bach Ma National Park . . . 178
Suoi Voi
(Elephant Springs). . . . . . . 179
Lang Co Beach . . . . . . . . . . 179
Hai Van Pass & Tunnel . . . .180
Ba Na Hill Station. . . . . . . .180
Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Around Danang. . . . . . . . . . 187
Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190

On the Road
Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . . 207
My Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Tra Kieu (Simhapura) . . . .213
Chien Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213
SOUTH-CENTRAL
COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Quang Ngai . . . . . . . . . . . . .216
Around Quang Ngai . . . . . . 217
Sa Huynh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218
Quy Nhon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219
Cha Ban Cham Area . . . . 223
Quang Trung Museum . . . 224
Ham Ho Nature Reserve. . 224
Song Cau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang . . . 225
Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
Around Nha Trang . . . . . . 243
Phan Rang & Thap Cham 244
Ninh Chu Beach . . . . . . . . 246
Ca Na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247
Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247
Phan Thiet . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
Ta Cu Mountain . . . . . . . . 256
Binh Chau Hot Springs . . 256
Phan Thiet to Long Hai . . .257
Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
Con Dao Islands . . . . . . . . 263
CENTRAL
HIGHLANDS . . . . . . .270
Dalat & Around . . . . . . . . . .272
Bao Loc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
Ngoan Muc Pass. . . . . . . . 283 Long Xuyen . . . . . . . . . . . . 402
Cat Tien National Park . . 283 Cao Lanh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
Buon Ma Thuot . . . . . . . . . 285 Around Cao Lanh . . . . . . . 407
Around Buon Ma Thuot . . 288 Sa Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407
Pleiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .291
Kon Tum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 SIEM REAP &
THE TEMPLES OF
HO CHI MINH ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . .410
CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 SIEM REAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411
AROUND AROUND SIEM REAP . . . . 417
HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . 342 Cambodia Landmine
Cu Chi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
Tay Ninh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Chong Kneas . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
One Pillar Pagoda. . . . . . . 349 Kompong Pluk . . . . . . . . . . 417
Can Gio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . 418
Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . . . . .418
MEKONG DELTA . . . .352 Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . .418
My Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Around Angkor Thom . . . 423
Around My Tho . . . . . . . . . .357
Ben Tre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358
Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
Around Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . 363
Vinh Long. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
Can Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
Around Can Tho . . . . . . . . . 371
Soc Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .373
Bac Lieu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .374
Around Bac Lieu . . . . . . . . .375
Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .376
Around Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . .378
Rach Gia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378
Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . .381
Ha Tien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392
Around Ha Tien. . . . . . . . . 395
Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397
Around Chau Doc . . . . . . . 400
 OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS
Iain Stewart
Coordinating Author, North-Central Vietnam, Central Vietnam Iain Stewart first
visited and was captivated by Vietnam as a traveller in 1991 (armed with a trusty
Lonely Planet). He’s now a Brighton-based writer, specialising in hot countries
a long way from his English seaside abode. Iain has written over 30 guidebooks
for destinations including Guatemala, Ibiza and Indonesia, for many publishers.
This trip was quite a blast – motorbiking the Ho Chi Minh Highway, sailing to the
Chams, partying in Saigon, exploring the heart of Phong Nha and eating the best food in the world.
Read more about Iain at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/iainstewart

Brett Atkinson
Hanoi, Northeast Vietnam, Northwest Vietnam Brett Atkinson first visited
Vietnam in late 1993, a few months before the United States lifted their trade
embargo. For this trip he dived headfirst into Hanoi’s brilliant street food scene,
returned to Halong Bay, and explored northern Vietnam’s emerging destinations
for intrepid travellers: Ha Giang province and Bai Tu Long. When he’s not home
in Auckland, Brett’s exploring the planet as a food and travel writer. See
www.brett-atkinson.net for what he’s been eating, and where he’s headed next.

Peter Dragicevich
Ho Chi Minh City, Mekong Delta Being a self-declared big-city junkie, Peter was
thrilled to return to Vietnam to write about Ho Chi Minh City after a four-year hiatus.
Things change quickly in Vietnam, but despite a few new skyscrapers and a fresh
crop of international bars and restaurants, he was pleased to find Saigon just as
crazy, chaotic and thrilling as ever. This is the 21st Lonely Planet guidebook that
he’s contributed to, including a previous edition of this book. When he’s not slurping
up noodle soup on motorcycle-clogged streets he’s based in his hometown of Auckland, New Zealand.
Read more about Peter at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/peterdragicevich
Nick Ray
Central Highlands, South-Central Coast, Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor
A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you
want to travel. As he lives in Phnom Penh, Vietnam is Nick’s backyard. He has
co-authored Cycling Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia, as well as the Cambodia book
for Lonely Planet. Nick has been to almost every province from Ha Giang in the
north to Ca Mau in the south. He was exploring in-between this time around and
enjoyed motorbiking the Central Highlands and hanging out on Con Dao.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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