Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
5.2.6 Infrastructure ..
125
5.2.7 Human Resource Management ..
126
5.2.8 Technology Development ...
127
5.2.9 Procurement ..
128
5.3 Recommendations
128
5.3.1 Recommendations for the government .
129
5.3.2 Recommendations for the firms ...
130
5.3.3 Limitations of the study ..
131
5.3.4 Suggestions for further studies
133
136
141
BIBIOGRAPHY
142
143
10
APPENDIX
Appendix 1: Letter for interview s appointment 150
Appendix 2: Topics for face to face interviews ...... 151
Appendix 3: Letter for questionnaire survey 153
Appendix 4: Questionnaires 154
Appendix 5: List of garment companies in Vietnam . 163
Appendix 6: Imports of textile and garment of the world 181
Appendix 7: Textile and Garment of Vietnam in the world market 182
Appendix 8: Growth rate of textile and garment industry 1997-2004 . 183
Appendix 9: Growth forecast of Vietnam s textile and garment 2005-2010... 184
Appendix 10: Growth forecast of Vietnam s textile and garment 2006-2015. 184
Appendix 11: Conditions to reach targets of Vietnam s textile and garment. 185
Appendix 12: List of 5 years projects and estimated budgets .. 186
Appendix 13: Vietnam s map . 187
Appendix 14: Country s profile .. 188
LIST OF FIGURES
Page
Figure 2-1: The value chain model .. 13
Figure 2-2 Inbound logistics model . 15
Figure 2-3: Operation management model .. 16
Figure 2-4: Operation management in the Organization Chart 17
Figure 2-5: Supply chain model ... 19
Figure 2-6: The supply chain in textile and clothing sector . 20
Figure 2-7: Marketing mix model 21
Figure 2-8: Decision on price strategy ............. 23
Figure 2-10: Whole value system model . 39
Figure 2-10: A pressing machine in Garment Company No.10, Hanoi 44
Figure 2-11: A inspection team in Nha Be garment Company 46
Figure 2-12: A fashion cycle ... 48
Figure 2-13: Espirit brand name ... 50
Figure 2-14: Diesel s brand label .. . 51
Figure 2-15: An example of care label ...51
Figure 2-16: Apparel production process ...............53
Figure 2-17: Value chain of garment companies in Vietnam .. ...64
Figure 4-1: Position of respondents 73
Figure 4-2: Firm s experience in Vietnam ...... 75
Figure 4-3: Location of garment companies in Vietnam ... . 76
Figure 4-4: Type of respondents garment companies .. ..77
Figure 4-5: Type of orders ...78
Figure 4-6: The major market .79
Figure 4-7: Location of Textile and garment companies in Vietnam 110
Figure 4-8: Initial investment of Textile and Garment companies in Vietnam .111
Figure 4-9: Ownership of Garment companies in Vietnam ...112
Figure 4-10: Products of textile and garment enterprises in Vietnam ..... 113
Figure 4-11: Ability of labor in Vietnamese textile and garment industry 115
Figure 4-12: Output of Vietnam textile and garment industy 116
Figure 4-13: GDP per capita of Vietnam ...117
LIST OF TABLES
Page
Table 2-1: Vietnam Textile and garment export market structure (in 1,000$) ...... .
.34
Table 2-2: Master Development Plan for period 2005-2010 .. ... . 37
Table 2-3 Vietnam Textile and Garment Export Turnover .. .. ... 38
Table 2-4: The cost structure of the clothing industry, selected countries, 2001 38
Table 2-5: Vietnam current textile and garment machinery and equipm .. ...43
Table 2-6: Prices of labels based on Vietnam and Indonesia as per, January 2004 5
2
Table 2-7: The garment s cost sheet .. 54
Table 4-1: Position of respondents ...73
Table 4-2: Firm s experience in Vietnam ... .. 75
Table 4-3: Location of garment companies in Vietnam ....76
Table 4-4: Type of respondents garment companies 77
Table 4-5: Type of orders ..78
Table 4-6: The major market ... ..79
Table 4-7: Width of Class Interval I .80
Table 4-8: Inbound logistics management of garment companies in Vietnam .81
Table 4-9: Operation management of garment companies in Vietnam .82
Table 4-10: Outbound logistics management of garment companies in Vietnam ... .83
Table 4-11: Marketing management of garment companies in Vietnam ... .. 84
Table 4-12: Sales management of garment companies in Vietnam ...85
Table 4-13: Service management of garment companies in Vietnam ... 86
Table 4-14: Infrastructure management of garment companies in Vietnam ... . 87
Table 4-15: Human Resource Management of garment companies in Vietnam ... 88
Table 4-16: Technology development in garment companies in Vietnam ....89
Table 4-17: Procurement management of garment companies in Vietnam ...90
Table 4-18: Width of Class Interval II ......91
Table 4-19: Independent Sample Test of primary activities ... .. 92
Table 4-20: Group Statistics of primary activities .....93
Table 4-21: Inbound logistics ... 94
Table 4-22: Operations ..95
Table 4-23: Outbout logistics .96
Table 4-24: Marketing and sales ... .97
Table 4-25: Services ... ...98
Table 4-26: Independent Sample Test of support activities ..99
Table 4-27: Group Statistics of support activities ..99
Table 4-28: Infrastructure 100
Table 4-29: Human Resource Management ... .101
Table 4-30: Technology development ... ..102
Table 4-31: Procurement ..103
Table 4-32: Support policies of Vietnamese government for T&G industry ..107
Table 4-33: Supply of garment companies in Vietnam .. 113
Table 4-34: Ability of labor in textile and garment industry .. 115
Abbreviations
AFTA: ASEAN Free Trade Agreement
ASEAN: Association of Southeast Asia Nations
CAD: Computer Aided Design
CAM: Computer Aided Manufacturing
CEPT: Common Effective Preferential Tariff
CMT: Cutting, Making and Trimming
EU: European Union
FDI: Foreign Direct Investment
FTA: Free Trade Agreement
GSO: General Statistic Office
HRM: Human Resource Management
MOT: Ministry of Trade
T&G: Textile and Garment
US: United States
VINATEX: Vietnam Textile and Garment Cooperation
VINATAS: Vietnam National Textile and Apparel Association
WTO: World Trade Organization
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
Ware housing
Finished goods
Raw
materials
Textile
plant
-spinning
-weaving
-drying
-printing
Accessory
Apparel
plant
Retail
store
Distrib.
centres
Customer
Figure 2-6 The supply chain in textile and clothing sector
Source: Gini Stephens Frings, 2002
Marketing and Sales
In true customer orientated fashion, at this stage the organization prepares the
offering to meet the needs of targeted customers. This area focuses strongly upo
n
marketing communications and the promotions mix.
Marketing is typically seen as the task of creating, promoting, and delivering g
oods and
service to consumers and businesses (Phillip Kotler, 2003). Marketers are skille
d in
stimulating demand for a company s products; they are responsible for demand
management. Marketing managers seek to influence the level, timing and compositi
on
of demand to meet the organization s objectives (Cateora R. Philip, 2002).
Price
Place
Marketing mix
The marketing mix is probably the most famous phrase in marketing. The
elements are the marketing 'tactics'. Also known as the 'four Ps', the marketing
mix
elements are product, price, place and promotion (Phillip Kotler, 2003).
Product Promtion
Marketing mix
Target market
Figure 2-7: Marketing mix model
Source: Kotler Philip, 2003
Product
The product is the heart of the marketing mix. If the product fails to meet the
end-user or the consumer s needs no additional efforts on any of the other ingredi
ents
of marketing mix will improve the product performance in marketplace (Phillip Ko
tler,
2003). It is important that the product is changed as necessary to bring it up t
o date and
prevent it from being overtaken by competitors (Cavusgil, S. Tamer, 1993).
In garment industry, the style of product is very important and it changes very
fast. The product not only is required good quality but also fashionable. In garm
ent
industry one of the most important things is fashion Designer Karl Lagerfeld (199
6)
said What I like about fashion is change. There s nothing safe forever in fashion.
Fashion is a train that waits for nobody. Get on it or it s gone . And it is true th
at if
fashion never changes public would not buy garment so often.
Here are some examples of product decisions to be made: Brand name,
functionality, styling, quality, packaging, repair and support, warranty.
Price
Changing the product to reflect the product's life cycle is only part of the
essence of a well balanced marketing mix, and so price enters the second importa
nt
consideration of the marketing mix. It is very important that the correct price
is charged
for a product. If the price is too high consumers will avoid the product as they
will
believe it to be too expensive yet if the product is priced too low they may bel
ieve that
there is something wrong with the product for it to be so cheap. Also if the com
pany
charges too low a price, it may not cover its costs (Phillip Kotler, 2003). Ther
e are
many different pricing strategies that companies can use to decide on a price fo
r their
product including market and psychological pricing methods (Cateora R. Philip, 2
002).
MARKETING ANALYSIS
Organizations
Value chain
Figure 2-9 Value chain system
Source: http://www.themanager.org/models/ValueChain.htm
Within the whole value system, there is only a certain value of profit margin
available. This is the difference of the final price the customer pays and the s
um of all
costs incurred with the production and delivery of the product/service (e.g. raw
material, energy etc.). It depends on the structure of the value system, how thi
s margin
spreads across the suppliers, producers, distributors, customers, and other elem
ents of
the value system. Each member of the system will use its market position and
negotiating power to get a higher proportion of this margin. Nevertheless, membe
rs of a
value system can cooperate to improve their efficiency and to reduce their costs
in
order to achieve a higher total margin to the benefit of all of them (e.g. by re
ducing
stocks in a Just-In-Time system).
2.1.3 Value chain methodology
The methodology for constructing and using a value chain involves four steps:
identify value chain activities, determine which value chain activities are stra
tegic, trace
costs to value chain activities, and use the activity cost information to manage
the
strategic value chain activities. An organization that can do these things bette
r than its
competitors creates a sustainable competitive advantage.
Identify Internal Value Chain Activities
To identify internal value chain activities, the company should first look for d
iscrete
activities that create value in fundamentally different ways. Each of these acti
vities has
distinctively different costs, cost drivers, and assets, involves different pers
onnel, and
creates value in a fundamentally different way. Second, when identifying value c
hain
activities, the company should take a broad view of the organization's activitie
s. To gain
an understanding of this big picture, the company should identify and separate o
ut three
categories of value chain activities: structural, procedural, and operational (P
orter, 1985;
Riley, 1987; Shank & Govindarajan, 1993; Donelan & Kaplan, 1998). Third, the
company should focus on structural and procedural activities.
Determine Which Activities Are Strategic
To determine which of the value chain activities are strategic, the company must
begin by identifying the characteristics of its products that are valued by exis
ting
customers, and the characteristics that the organization can best exploit to cre
ate value
for future customers. These characteristics may include quality, perfect fit to
specific
customers' needs, or customer support.
After identifying the distinctive characteristics of its offerings, the company
should find out which specific activities in the organization are responsible fo
r creating
those characteristics. The identified activities represent the most important va
lue chain
activities, or in other words, the strategic value chain activities that provide
a
competitive advantage.
After identifying strategic value chain activities, the company must identify th
e nonstrategic
activities as well. These remaining value chain activities are important, but
they do not represent the sources of strategic advantage for the organization.
Trace Costs to Activities
Each value activity incurs costs, generates revenues, and ties up assets. After
identifying the value chain and its strategic and non-strategic activities, one
must assign
operating costs, revenues, and assets to individual activities. The accounting s
ystem
should be designed to accomplish this task. One technique developed to aid the p
rocess
of allocating costs to the appropriate value chain activities cost is activity-b
ased costing
(ABC) (see Cooper, 1990a, 1990b, 1997; Cooper & Caplan 1999).
Identifying the value chain activity cost drivers is a way of understanding cost
behavior and identifying strategic and non-strategic activities. However, it is
more
important to think the broader framework of the value chain as a whole. What is
more
useful in a strategic sense is to explain cost position in terms of structural c
hoices,
procedural practices, and operational skills (Shank & Govindarajan, 1993; Donela
n &
Kaplan, 1998). It is important to note that, for strategic analysis, volume is u
sually not
the most useful way to explain cost behavior. Financial and non-financial measur
es and
cost drivers both lagging (those that result from past actions) and leading (tho
se that
inform future performance) are important. The Balanced Scorecard Framework (Kapl
an
& Norton, 1992) provides senior managers with a focus on the organization's visi
on and
strategy, helps them communicate strategy throughout the organization, links str
ategic
objectives to long-term targets, and helps managers create consensus on organiza
tion
competitive advantages.
2.2 Overview of garment industry
2.2.1 Introduction
The establishment of Nam Dinh textile factory in Red River Delta, North of
Vietnam in the late 19th century had been considered as the starting point for t
he
establishment and development of the textile and garment (T&G) industry in Vietn
am.
Till about the late of 1960, most garment products manufactured for the domestic
market and for the army (for the War). At that time, machinery and other support
came
primarily from China. Between 1970s and 1980s exports commenced, to Germany.
Machinery was imported from the Czech Republic, Poland, and Germany. Between
1981 and 1990, Vietnam s export market expanded to Russia, and other European
countries. Gradually, Vietnamese apparel exports have expanded to Germany, Swede
n,
Norway, and Japan, which together account for a majority of its exports, most of
which
is menswear and children wear (Export-Import Department, Ministry of Trade, 2004
).
After the VN-US Bilateral Trade Agreement came into effect, US became very big
export of garment companies in Vietnam. Following table shows Vietnam Textile an
d
garment export market structure, in that US is the main market of Vietnam, follo
w by
EU and Japan (Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association, 2004).
Table 2-1: Vietnam Textile and garment export market structure (in 1,000$)
Year US EU Japan Others
2003 2,000,000 600,000 500,000 500,000
2004 2,000,000 900,000 550,000 600,000
Source: Vietnam Ministry of Trade, 2003
The textile and garment industry is central to Vietnam's transition from a
centrally planned to a market economy, from an economic system built predominant
ly
around state enterprises to one which treats all enterprises equally regardless
of
ownership, and to the success of the Doi Moi process (Export-import Department-
Ministry of Trade, 2004). The industry is also a critical element in the country
's export
drive, and more generally its efforts to integrate itself into the international
economy.
Textiles and garments are invariably one of the major industries in countries' e
arly-
stage manufactured exports. Export success in this industry is usually the forer
unner to
the emergence of a broad-based export-oriented development strategy. Failure to
achieve export success in this industry is invariably symptomatic of deep-seated
domestic obstacles and an inability to build on strong potential comparative adv
antage
(VINATEX, 2004). Thus the industry is important not just as a major source of ex
ports
and employment, but also for what its growth indicates more generally about econ
omic
performance.
Strong and abrupt policy reforms had revived the T&G industry and placed the
industry into a new stage of development in the last decade of the 20th century.
The
average growth rate of T&G industry was high at 10.4% per annum. By the year 200
3,
the garment export accounted for 18.4% of total export value, nearly twice large
r than
10.6% in 1994 (VINATAS, 2004). The state sector, with 187 textile and garment
enterprises, still dominated the textile and garment industry, although its impo
rtance
had relatively reduced in the recently years as the private sector, both domesti
c and
foreign, grew up rapidly. By the end of 2003, the T&G industry created 1,600,000
jobs,
accounting for 25% of total industrial labor force (Bui Quang Tuan 2004). Since
2000
up to now, Vietnam produces more than 400 million garment pieces per year, mostl
y in
the form of Shirts, Jackets, and Trousers. The two biggest garment-producing cen
ters in
Vietnam are the cities of Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi. The industry now generates abou
t
20% of Vietnam's total merchandise exports, second only to oil, and some 41% of
manufactured exports (Import-export Department-Ministry of Trade, 2004).
In recent years, Garment companies invested in new and modern production
lines, with high quality specialized equipment to produce high quality products.
At the
same time, companies also started projects to treat waste water from factories l
ocated in
densely populated areas, developing ISO 14000 programs, applying the SA 8000 soc
ial
standards for exported products, especially to the US market. Progress was also
made in
building trademarks of well-known companies like Garment Co. No. 10, Viet Tien,
Nha
Be, Thanh Cong and Viet Thang (Le Mong Hoang, 2001). More companies realize the
importance of registering copyrights with the competent agencies at home and abr
oad.
Furthermore, besides capital investment, the Government encourages enterprises t
o
invest in the work force and develop their human resources.
The Government Decision 55/TTg-CP on strategies to accelerate the
development of the garment and textile sectors aims to increase the percentage o
f
domestically supplied raw materials to 50% by 2010. Greater investment to increa
se
cloth supply is therefore essential. In 2005, VINATEX (Vietnam National Textile
and
Garment Corporation), the state-owned sector giant, will strengthen the business
restructuring process and management system. Vinatex s members will become limited
liability companies, operating under Business Law.
Table 2-2: Master Development Plan for period 2005-2010
Content Unit Year Growth (%)
2005 2010 2001-2005 2005-2010
Garment Mln pcs 85.0 136.0 10.0 10.0
Source: Vietnam National Textile and Garment cooperation -VINATEX, 2004
2.2.2 Current Status of garment industry
High growth, little added value
The Vietnamese garments and textile industry has continued to make a
substantial contribution to the overall growth of the economy in 2004. However,
the
development remains chancy and unsustainable (Duc Vuong, 2001). Large export
earnings and hundreds of thousands of new jobs have been bought by capitalizing
on
cheap labor and the opening of the US market. In 2004, export earnings from text
iles
and garments reached USD 4.4 billion, ranking second after crude oil only (Impor
texport
Department Ministry of Trade, 2004). Compared to the previous year, exports
grew by nearly 20%. Economic benefits were largely generated by processing impor
ted
materials and accessories as local content account for around only 30% of the ex
ported
garments and textiles. The main weakness of local garment and textile enterprise
s is
that they are mainly just sub-contractors of foreign partners. Garment exporters
usually
rely on foreign suppliers of raw materials and accessories to fill orders for in
ternational
conglomerates (Duc Vuong, 2001).
Table 2-3: Vietnam Textile and Garment Export Revenue
Year 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005* 2010*
$ mln 1.450 1.747 1.892 1.975 2.781 3.686 4.250 5.000 9.000
Source: Vietnam Textile & Apparel Association (VITAS), 2004; * - Estimated figur
es
Table 2-4: The cost structure of the clothing industry, selected countries, 2001
Table 2-5 shows that Vietnam has the lowest value added cost (14% of gross
output). In which, percent of unskilled, skilled labor and capital put in to add
ed value
also very low compared with others. While % import of intermediate input is high
est
(40.4% of intermediate input).
Structure of the industry
So far, the industry is made up of over 1,200 companies, including over 200
state-owned enterprises (20%), over 600 private/joint-stock/limited liability bu
sinesses
(46%) and around 400 foreign-invested enterprises (33%) with a work-force of ove
r 2
million. In 2004, total production capacity reached 150,000 tons of yarn, 518.2
million
meters of fabric, 784 million pieces of clothing and 114.3 million pieces of kni
tted
wear. The non-state sector is playing an increasingly important role, especially
in
garment and knitwear production. This sector now accounts for 35-40% of the coun
try's
total textile production and 70-75% of garment outputs. As for the foreign direc
t
investment (FDI) in the sector, it has grown fast from 100 projects in 2001 with
a
registered capital of USD 460 million to nearly 400 projects in 2003 with nearly
USD 1
billion of registered capital (Import export Department-Ministry of Trade, 2004)
. So far
Taiwan and Republic of Korea are the biggest foreign investors in the sector acc
ounting
for over 60% of total FDI in textile and garment industries. The gap between the
development of textile and garment firms is substantial. Whereas the overall
development of the sector continues to be fast, it shows imbalances in the growt
h of
textiles and garments (VINATAS, 2004).
In recent years, the garment industry has expanded rapidly and attracted plenty
of investment from the private sector while textiles have seen only very slow gr
owth.
This is because investment in textiles requires a huge amount of capital and onl
y
produces returns in the long term. In 2004, garments accounted for 90% of the ex
ports
from the garment and textile industries. The production of textile fabric, parti
cularly the
dyeing and finishing processes, requires large capital investment, high technolo
gy, and
strong technical management. As a result, Vietnamese firms both private and stat
e-
owned -have not performed well in this sector. Each year, Vietnam must import an
average of 700 million meters of cloth, equal to 70% of demand. So far, the dome
stic
textile sector can meet only 30% of the fabric needs of the garment sector. (Eur
opean
Union Economic and commercial counselors, report on Vietnam, 2005)
Trade agreements on garment
In 2004, exports growth was mainly generated on the US market, which has
become the biggest market for Vietnamese goods so far. Trade between the two for
mer
war foes expanded after the Bilateral Trade Agreement went into effect in Decemb
er
2001. Vietnam earned USD 2.5 billion from textile sales to the US in 2004, up fr
om
almost USD 2 billion in 2003 and just USD 50 million in 2001. At the same time,
Vietnam carries on with integrating into the ASEAN Free Trade Agreement (AFTA)
whose Commonly Effective Preferential Tariff (CEPT) it joined on 01 January 1996
with the aim of completing implementation of the accession roadmap within ten ye
ars.
In 2006, by the end of this period, all tariffs on textile and garment products
will be 05%
only (EU, Report on Vietnam, 2005).
After Vietnam and the EU reached an agreement on Vietnam's accession to
WTO on 9 October 2004, the two sides have today concluded an agreement, which wi
ll
lead to the elimination of EU textile and garment quotas for Vietnam in 2005 (In
stitut
Francais de la mode, 2004). On 16 March 2005, the Council of the EU has confirme
d
the Agreement on Market Access between Vietnam and the EU. The signing of the
Agreement took take place in Brussels on March 31st, 2005. Quota-free export of
textile and garment products to the enlarged EU market means that all obstacles
to
Vietnam's textile exports are removed. Vietnam will be able to compete on an equ
al
footing with WTO members, for which textile and garment quotas will be abolished
world-wide on the same date. At the same time, Vietnam's textile and clothing in
dustry
will enjoy conditions to further develop on its path of international integratio
n.
Following the EU case, Canada has decided to remove its quotas for Vietnam's tex
tiles
and garment as from Jan. 1, 2005. The decision was made after Vietnamese Trade
Minister Truong Dinh Tuyen sent letter to Canadian Trade Minister Jim Peterson,
asking for Canada's support for Vietnam's bid to join the World Trade Organizati
on and
for the abolition of textiles and garment quotas for Vietnam. The Canadian Gover
nment
will create favorable conditions for Vietnamese textiles and garment products to
compete on a level playing field with 148 other WTO members (EU, Report on
Vietnam, 2005).
2.2.3 Characteristics of Textile and Garment Industry
Although the growth rate of the industry was high, the asymmetrical growth
within T&G industry was large. Since 2000, the growth rate of garment production
was
21.4% per annum, while that of textile production was mere 6.9% p.a. (EU report
on
Vietnam, 2004). The unbalanced growth of this sector had caused a strong depende
nce
on textile imports for local consumption as well as garment production. The
Government had made considerable efforts to upgrade technology in the textile
industry, but this sector still could not provide textile with quality satisfyin
g the
demand of garment industry (Le Mong Hoang, 2001).
In the meantime, the technology of garment industry has been generally
upgraded, much better than that of textile industry, although the former gets mu
ch
fewer supports from the Government in upgrading the technology. Many garment
enterprises are now capable of making rapid production adjustments in response t
o
product style changes. New technology and IT-enhanced equipment had been install
ed
in several enterprises (Le Mong Hoang, 2001). This had facilitated them to quick
ly
response to changing demand. The textile industry not only suffered from the low
level of production technology but also from lacks of locally-grown/produced raw
materials. Vietnam s textile industry annually has to import 90% of cotton and 100
% of
yarn for domestic production. However, upgrade in technology in the garment indu
stry
seems not be enough to lift the industry into the higher ladder of value chain (E
U,
Report on Vietnam, 2005).
Table 2-5: Vietnam current textile and garment machinery and equipment (unit:
equipment)
No Description Brand/country of origin Quantity
1
2
3
4
5
Spindle
Spinning rotor
Weaving
machine
Knitting
machine
Sewing
machine
China, Japan, Italy
China
Sinkwang, Picanol, Vamatex, Nissan, Rotal,
Kawamoto
German, Italy, France, US, UK, Taiwan, China,
Japan, Korea
Sunstar, Brother, Juki, Singer, Pfaff, Veit,
Pegasus, Gemsy, Golden Wheel
2,000,000
6,520
15,500
1,540
200,000
Source: VINATEX and VINATAS, 2004
Therefore, the industry mostly focuses on production of unsophisticated and
quota-required products such as shirt, jacket, coats, home dressing and the like
, while
either some categories with granted quotas or some markets without quota but hig
h
quality requirements are still neglected. Low level of technology partly explain
ed low
value added of the garment exports. Most of the raw materials (fabrics and trimm
ings)
are imported, mostly from countries such as Indonesia, Malaysia, Japan, UK, Kore
a,
Taiwan, China, and Hong Kong. Only a limited quantity and type (such as polyeste
r) of
fabrics are sourced from within Vietnam (VINATEX&VINATAS, 2004).
The upstream linkage between textile and garment industry was low, leading to
heavy dependence on imported raw inputs for production. Currently, imported inpu
ts
make up to 50% of total inputs for the garment industry. While total export valu
e of the
garment industry in 2003 was USD 3.6 billion, the import value of raw material f
or
T&G industry amounted to more than USD 4 billions (Ministry of Trade, 2004).
Vietnamese enterprises in the garment industry are still struggle to establish a
trade mark (or brand) for themselves, leading to heavy dependence on intermediary
firms located in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Republic of Korea. Currently, 70% of tota
l
export value of the garment industry is via those intermediaries (VINATAS, 2004)
.
This implies that the low value-added due to low level of technology and heavy
dependence on imported inputs war further exacerbated as parts of this value-add
ed has
to transfer to the intermediaries. In addition, the export will much depend on t
he
health of the intermediaries and their market strategies. Not only high level of
dependence on intermediaries, the garment export is currently much concentrated
in
some quota-required markets such as the US (accounting for 54% of total garment
export value), the EU market (16%). Export value to Japan and Taiwan, two non-qu
ota
markets, accounted for only 19% of total garment export value. (EU, Report on
Vietnam, 2005). Although more and more enterprises had shifted a part of their
production chain to serve the local market, which is viewed as large with total
market
value of at around USD 2.8 billion per year, the local demand for high-end produ
cts
were still satisfied by foreign producers.
Equipment in the garment industry is thought to be more modern, and it is in
any case a very labor-intensive activity. Export orientation has conferred signi
ficant
advantages, as garment producers have the foreign currency to purchase better
equipment (Le Mong Hoang, 2001).
Figure 2-10: A pressing machine in Garment Company No.10, Hanoi
Source: htpp://vnexpress.net/Vietnam/Kinhdoanh/2005/10/3B9E35DE
Almost all garment exports occur as international subcontracting arrangements,
where buyers seek out domestic suppliers, and generally provide them with import
ed
fabrics. This is known in the trade as CMT (cut, make and trim). Such an arrange
ment
initially proved to be beneficial to Vietnamese producers, who almost uniformly
lack
international marketing knowledge (Till Freyer, 2003). Exporters are trapped in
very
low value added production. Almost all producers - even the very large ones - la
ck the
experience and resources to embark on energetic marketing programs. Some foreign
and private firms are now beginning to explore new markets. But the huge state-o
wned
conglomerate VINATEX, which accounts for about half of the industry's exports,
appears ill-equipped for this new challenge (Duc Vuong, 2001).
Accurate time series and disaggregated cross sectional wage data are not
available for Vietnam, but it is well known that the country has one of the lowe
st real
wage levels in Asia. Approximate pre-crisis wage data for textiles suggest that
unskilled wage rates in the textile industry are at least 20% below those in suc
h major
low-income exporters as China, India, and Indonesia, and about one-third those o
f
Thailand. Clearly unskilled wage rates are not an obstacle to Vietnam's internat
ional
competitiveness in textiles and garments.
(EU, Report on Vietnam, 2005)
The Vina Control Office, Hanoi, set up in 1957, under the Ministry of Trade, is
the leading inspection organization in Vietnam for checking imports and exports
in
terms of quality, quantity, weight, condition of goods, and checking/ testing is
done in
warehouses, ships, etc. It uses ISO 2859 and MIL STD 105 as standard testing/
checking procedures, unless specifically stipulated by the client. The normal le
vel of
checking is AQL 2; for major defects it is AQL 2.5, and for minor defects it is
AQL
4.0. Vina Control issues the clearance certificate only if the results are withi
n the
specified limits. If necessary, re-inspection is also done (Arin Dam Das, 2001).
Figure 2-11 A quality inspection team in Nha Be garment company
Source: htpp://vnexpress.net/Vietnam/Kinhdoanh (Year 2004)
2.3 Related literatures reviews
To understand more about the value chain in general and value chain in garment
companies, in this part of the research other theories are covered to support fo
r the
theoretical framework.
2.3.1 Important concepts and theories used in garment business.
In the Fashion from concept to consumer book, Gini Stephens Frings tells the
whole story of how the garment business works, in sequential order from concept
to
consumer. Among of them, the following concepts and theories can be used to supp
ort
the value chain methodology of garment companies.
2.3.1.1 Fashion cycle
Charu Chandra wrote in his article Supply chain management (2004): One of
the common problems encountered in managing a supply chain is that of
synchronization of activities throughout the life cycle of its products . With gar
ment
manufacturers fashion cycle is very important factor because it helps manufactur
ers do
the right action, at the right time to meet the demands of customers (Gini Steph
ens
Frings, 2002).
Garment business is different compared with other business. Fashion cycle now
is changing very fast and this trend affect to the delivery lead time. It requir
es a more
effective fashion forecast in garment companies to catch the trend and fulfill t
he needs
of customers so it would affect to the value chain of garment companies.
Fashion cycle is usually depicted as a bell shaped curve encompassing five stage
s.
Introduction
Rise
Peak
Decline
Rejection
Sales
Time Introductory
phase
Acceptance phase Rejection
phase
Introduction
Rise
Peak
Decline
Rejection
Sales
Time Introductory
phase
Acceptance phase Rejection
phase
Figure 2-12: A fashion cycle
Source: Gini Stephens Fring, 2002
Introduction of a style
Most new styles are introduced at a high price level. Designers who are
respected for their talent may be given finance to design with very few limitati
ons on
creativity, quality of raw materials or amount of fine workmanship. They create
new
apparel and accessory styles by changing elements such as line, shape, color, fa
bric,
and details. Production costs are high and only a few people can afford the resu
lting
garments. New styles are shown to retail buyers and the press at collection show
ings
and market weeks. Some wealthy people are able to buy these clothes because they
want to wear them to important events. Some new styles are loaned to movie and T
V
stars to wear so that they will be seen by many people.
Increasing in popularity
When new styles are seen worn by celebrities on television or photographed in
magazines they attract the attention of the general public. Viewers and readers
may
want to buy but perhaps cannot afford them. Popular styles are copied by other
manufacturers to make them available to the general public. They use less expens
ive
fabric and may modify the design to sell the style at lower price.
Peak of popularity
When a fashion is at the height of popularity it may be in such demand that
more manufacturers copy it or produce adaptations of it at many price levels. Vo
lume
production requires mass acceptance.
Decline in popularity
Eventually, so many copies are mass produced that fashion conscious people tire
of the style and begin to look for something new. Consumers still wear garments
in the
style but they are no longer willing to buy them at regular prices.
Rejection of a style
In the last phase of the fashion cycle, some consumers have already turned to
new looks, thus beginning a new cycle. The rejection or discarding of a style ju
st
because it is out of fashion is called consumer obsolescence.
2.3.1.2 Brand names
Brand names have becomes very important in the fashion business. Brand
names identify products made by a particular manufacturer. Brand name must fit t
he
image that the manufacturer wants to project, reflects the style and mood of the
clothes,
and appeal to the intended customer. The ultimate goal of manufacturer is to est
ablish
the identity of a particular brand to such an extent that consumers prefer that
brand over
all others (Gini Stephens, 2002).
317
n = = 176.85
1 + 317*(0.05)2
With N = 317, e = 5% (95 percent confidence). Hence the sample size for conducti
ng
questionnaire should be 177 companies.
Questionnaire design
Questionnaire was designed to match with the objectives of the study and
conceptual framework. A short questionnaire with conceptually clear and concise
statements is judged to be desirable for both the respondents and the researcher
. The
questionnaire consists of a series of questions that shown in Appendix 4.
To ensure the accuracy, the questionnaire was developing through the process as
following.
1.
Specify information will be sought base on the objectives of the study,
the value chain model mentioned in chapter 2
2.
Determine type of questionnaire
3.
Determine content of individual questions
4.
Determine wording of each question
5.
Determine sequence of questionnaire
6.
Draft questionnaires based above factors
7.
Pretest draft questionnaires with foreign friend and revise.
8.
Submit the draft questionnaires to the advisors
9.
Advisor check, correct and approves the questionnaires
10. The questionnaire are translated into Vietnamese language
11. Pilot testing to make sure the respondent understand and interpret the
questionnaire in the same way.
Measurement of conducting questionnaire
The main type of questionnaire is questionnaire with 5 point rating scale. The
questionnaires with 5 point rating scale were used to measure respondents evaluat
ion
by asking them the degree of performance with statements in the questionnaire th
at
ranked from (1) not effective at all (or not important at all) to (5) very effec
tive (or very
important). Each question consisted of many activities that mentioned above base
d on
literature review, especially the value chain model to capture the construct of
interest.
The higher the score the better the activities are done. 5 point scales will be
used to
measure activities in a way such that mean scores could be calculated to show ho
w the
garment companies in Vietnam manage activities in their value chain. The researc
her
defines the criteria to measure level of variable according to the separate of f
ive levels
following Likert s scale.
Not effective at all Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
Not effective at
all
Slightly
ineffective
Moderately
effective
Effective Very
effective
3.3.2 Sampling, design and measurement of interview
Interview was implemented with 7 policy makers and garment experts of
following organizations:
1. The Export Import Department, Ministry of Trade of Vietnam
Mr. Le Van Thang Deputy Head of Export-Import Department
2. Legislative Department, Ministry of Industry
Mr. Nguyen Tien Vy Head of Legislative Department.
3. Textile and Garment Research Institute Vietnam National Textile and
Garment Cooperation.
Dr. Tran Van Quyen Textile and Garment consultant.
Percent
Table 4-6: The major market
Markets Frequency Percent
Local market
Oversea markets
Total
7
166
173
4.0
96.0
100.0
Major market
Local market
Figure 4-6: Major markets of garment companies in Vietnam
Table 4-6 shows the major market of respondents companies. There are 166 companie
s
have the major markets are oversea markets (96%), while only 7 companies concent
rate
on the local market with 4% of 173 qualify respondents.
96.0%
4.0%
Oversea markets
4.2 Analysis of value chain management of garment companies in Vietnam
The perceived effectiveness of activities on the value chain management are
measured on a five-point Likert type scale (1 = Not effective at all; 5 = Very e
ffective).
Very effective = (5)
Effective = (4)
Moderately effective = (3)
Slightly ineffective = (2)
Not effective at all = (1)
Table 4-7: Width of Class Interval I
Not effective at all
(1)
Slightly ineffective
(2)
Moderately effective
(3)
Effective
(4)
Very effective
(5)
1.00 1.80 1.81 2.60 2.61 3.40 3.41 4.20 4.21 5.00
4.2.1 The primary activities management
4.2.1.1 Inbound logistics
Table 4- 8: Inbound logistics management of garment companies in Vietnam
Activities N Mean S.D Indicator
Receiving fabric
Storing
Handling system
Inventory control
Transportation scheduling
Inbound logistics management
173
173
69
74
173
173
4.0809
3.3006
2.7536
2.7162
3.3931
3.2486
.78824
.91617
.77471
.83617
.99204
.81523
Effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Table 4-8 shows respondents opinions on the inbound logistics management in
the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents w
ere
asked to rate their inbound logistics management from 1 (least effective level)
to 5
(most effective level)
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates the effective level o
f
inbound logistics management, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the cen
tral
value (mean score). The table shows that all of 173 companies have receiving fab
ric,
storing and transportation scheduling activities but only 69 companies have hand
ling
system and 74 companies have inventory control activities. Receiving fabric acti
vity in
Garment Company is considered to be done efficiently with mean is 4.08 and S.D i
s
0.78. Others are moderately efficient. They are storing (mean = 3.30, S.D = 0.92
),
handling (mean = 2.75, S.D = 0.77), inventory control (mean = 2.72, S.D = 0.84),
transportation scheduling (mean = 3.39, S.D = 0.99). In conclusion, inbound logi
stics is
managed moderately efficient with mean = 3.25, S.D = 0.82.
4.2.1.2 Operation management
Table 4-9: Production management of garment companies in Vietnam.
Activities N Mean S.D. Indicator
Production scheduling
Pattern making
Spreading and cutting
Garment assembly
Finishing and packaging
Machine maintenance
Production
173
173
173
173
173
173
173
3.4046
3.3642
3.6185
3.6532
3.2254
3.3237
3.4740
.87496
1.19606
1.00238
.85314
.90286
1.02263
0.50077
Effective
Moderately effective
Effective
Effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Effective
Table 4-9 shows respondents opinions on the production management in the
value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents were
asked
to rate their production management from 1 (not effective at all) to 5 (very eff
ective
level)
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates the effective level o
f
production management, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the central va
lue
(mean score)
In the table 4-8 Production scheduling (mean = 3.40, S.D = 0.87), spreading and
cutting (mean = 3.61, S.D = 1.00) garment assembling (mean = 3.65, S.D = 0.85) a
re
managed effectively however their means only a little above the moderately effec
tive
level. While others are managed moderately effective, they are pattern making (m
ean =
3.36, S.D = 1.19), finishing and packaging (mean = 3.23, S.D = 0.90), machine
maintenance (mean = 3.32, S.D = 1.02). In general, production is managed somewha
t
between moderately effective and effective (mean = 3.47, S.D = 0.50).
4.2.1.3 Outbound logistics management.
Table 4-10: Outbound logistics management of garment companies in Vietnam
Activities N Mean S.D. Indicator
Warehousing
Order fulfillment
Transportation
Outbound logistics
173
173
173
173
3.3006
3.4855
2.9827
3.2717
.94736
.83253
.85232
.74017
Moderately effective
Effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Table 4-10 shows respondents opinions on the outbound logistics in the value
chain of garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents were asked
to rate
their outbound logistics management from 1 (not effective at all) to 5 (very eff
ective
level).
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates the effective level o
f
production management, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the central va
lue
(mean score).
Table 4-10 shows that order fulfillment (mean = 3.48, S.D = 0.83) is
management effectively while two others are managed moderately effective. They a
re
warehousing (mean = 3.30, S.D = 0.95) and transportation (mean = 2.98, S.D = 0.8
5).
In general, outbound logistics is managed moderately effective (mean = 3.27, S.D
=
0.74).
4.2.1.4 Marketing and sales management
Table 4-11: Marketing management of garment companies in Vietnam
Activities N Mean S.D Indicator
Product management
Price strategy management
Place management
Promotion management
Marketing management
173
173
173
173
173
1.9827
2.6301
1.9422
1.9249
2.2543
.96131
.97146
.90033
.67352
.65062
Slightly ineffective
Moderately effective
Slightly ineffective
Slightly ineffective
Slightly ineffective
Table 4-11 shows respondents opinions on the marketing mix in the value chain
of garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents were asked to rat
e their
marketing mix management from 1 (not effective at all) to 5 (very effective leve
l) as
following range
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates the effective level o
f
variables of marketing mix, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the centr
al
value (mean score).
The table shows that three elements of marketing mix are managed not too
effective. They are product (mean = 1.98, S.D = 0.96), place (mean = 1.94, S.D =
0.90)
and promotion (mean = 1.92, S.D = 0.67). Only price is managed moderately effect
ive
with mean = 2.63, S.D = 0.97. In general, marketing is managed slightly ineffect
ive
with mean = 2.25.
Table 4-12: The sales management of garment companies in Vietnam
Activities N Mean S.D Indicator
Retail management
Wholesale management
Sales management
105
98
173
2.0463
2.3265
2.1864
.82467
.71473
.75153
Slightly ineffective
Slightly ineffective
Slightly ineffective
Table 4-12 shows respondents opinions on the sales in the value chain of
garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents were asked to rate t
heir
sales management from 1 (not at all effective level) to 5 (very effective level)
.
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates the effective level o
f
sales management, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the central value (
mean
score).
The table shows that only 105 companies have retail activity and 98 companies
have wholesale activity. Retail management in these 105 companies is managed not
very effectively with mean is 2.05, S.D is 0.82 and wholesale management in 98
companies is managed not too effectively too (mean = 2.33, S.D = 0.71). In gener
al,
sale management of those companies is managed slightly ineffectively.
4.2.1.5 Services management
Table 4-13: Services management of garment companies in Vietnam
Activities N Mean S.D Indicator
Customer support
Complain handling
Services
173
173
173
2.4393
3.2813
2.7225
1.00757
.77186
.69333
Slightly ineffective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Table 4-13 shows respondents opinions on the services in the value chain of
garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents were asked to rate t
heir
services management from 1 (not at all effective level) to 5 (very effective lev
el) on
two variables: customer support and complain handling. As following range
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates level of services
management, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the central value (mean
score).
The table shows that services are managed moderately efficient (mean = 2.72,
S.D = 0.69). Customer support variable is managed not too efficient with mean =
2.4393, S.D = 1.01 and complain handling variable is managed moderately efficien
t
with mean = 1. 64, S.D = 0.49.
4.2.2 Support activities management
4.2.2.3 Infrastructure management
Table 4-14: Infrastructure management of garment companies in Vietnam.
Activities N Mean S.D Indicator
General management
Planning management
Finance management
Quality management
Infrastructure
173
173
173
173
173
3.1098
3.1156
3.2486
3.3873
3.2486
1.05905
1.09355
.87707
.86620
.81523
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Table 4-14 shows respondents opinions on the infrastructure in the value chain
of garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents were asked to rat
e their
infrastructure management from 1 (not at all effective level) to 5 (very effecti
ve level)
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates effective level of th
at
variable, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the central value (mean sco
re).
In the table, all of four infrastructures are managed moderately effective. They
are general management (mean = 3.11, S.D = 1.06), planning management (mean =
3.12, S.D = 1.09), finance management (mean = 3.25, S.D = 0.88), quality managem
ent
(mean = 3.39, S.D = 0.87). In conclusion, the infrastructure is manage moderatel
y
effective with mean is 3.25.
4.2.2.2 Human resource management
Table 4-15 The Human resource management of garment companies in Vietnam.
Activities N Mean S.D Indicator
Recruiting
Worker training
Staff training
Salary and compensation
HRM
173
109
75
173
173
3.5145
2.3119
2.7067
2.5723
2.7822
1.10815
.99719
1.17143
1.34758
.48571
Effective
Slightly ineffective
Moderately effective
Slightly ineffective
Moderately effective
Table 4-15 shows respondents opinions on the human resource management in
the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents w
ere
asked to rate their human resource management from 1 (not at all effective) to 5
(very
effective).
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates level of human
resource management, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the central valu
e
(mean score).
In the table, recruiting is managed effectively with mean = 3.51, S.D = 1.11.
Staff training is somewhat effective with mean = 2.71 but both worker training (
mean =
2.31, S.D = 0.99) and salary and compensation (mean = 2.57, S.D = 1.35) are less
effective. In general, human resource management is at somewhat effective level
with
mean = 2.78.
4.2.2.1 Technology development
Table 4-16: Technology development in garment companies in Vietnam.
Activities N Mean S.D Indicator
Design and redesign
Sewing machine
Cutting machine
Iron system
Support equipment
Technology development
173
173
173
173
173
173
1.5000
3.7052
3.2023
3.3295
2.4509
2.7688
.50671
.88254
1.08884
1.02362
1.33563
.5538
Not at all effective
Effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Not at all efficient
Moderately effective
Table 4-16 shows respondents opinions on the technology development in the
value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents were
asked
to rate their technology development from 1 (not at all effective level) to 5 (v
ery
effective level).
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates level of technology
development, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the central value (mean
score).
The table shows that design and redesign is at not good at all level with mean =
1.50,
S.D = 0.50. Sewing machine is good with mean = 3.71, S.D = 0.88. Cutting machine
(mean = 3.20, S.D = 1.09) and iron system (mean = 3.33, S.D = 1.02) are somewhat
good but support equipment is not too good with mean = 2.45, S.D = 1.34. In
conclusion technology development is somewhat effective in garment companies in
Vietnam with mean = 2.77, S.D = 0.55.
4.2.2.4 Procurement management
Table 4-17: Procurement of garment companies in Vietnam
Activities N Mean S.D Indicator
Procurement of materials
Procurement of machine
Procurement of services
Procurement of stationary
Procurement
173
173
173
173
173
2.2428
3.4913
3.0694
3.2023
3.0462.93325
.95002
.90595
.93361
.80561
Not too effective
Effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Moderately effective
Table 4-17 shows respondents opinions on the procurement management in the
value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. In this case, the respondents were
asked
to rate their procurement management from 1 (not at all effective level) to 5 (v
ery
effective level).
The mean of the opinions score for each variable indicates effective level of th
at
variable, which the S.D indicates the deviation from the central value (mean sco
re).
In the table, procurement of materials is less effective (mean = 2.24, S.D =
0.93), procurement of machine is effective with mean = 3.5, S.D = 0.95. Others a
re
managed moderately effective. They are procurement of services (mean = 3.07, S.D
=
0.91), procurement of stationary (mean = 3.20, S.D = 0.93). In conclusion, procu
rement
with mean = 3.05 is manage somewhat effectively.
4.3 Comparison between respondents and experts perceptions on importance of
activities in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam.
Since the one of objectives of this study is to recommend policies to improve
the value chain management of garment companies in Vietnam. The researcher asked
respondents and experts to rate the importance of primary activities and support
activities on the value chain management of garment companies in Vietnam. t-test
s
analysis is utilized for comparison between the importances of activities toward
s the
value chain management. The perceived importance of activities on the value chai
n
management are measured on a five-point Likert type scale (1 = Not important at
all; 5
= Very important).
Most important = (5)
Important = (4)
Moderately Important = (3)
Rather Unimportant = (2)
Least important = (1)
19.
The table 4-19 shows that Sig (2-tailed) is 0.085, which is more than 0.05. It
would be concluded that there is not a statistically significant difference in t
he mean
operation scores for respondents from garment companies ( X = 4.73, SD= 0.45) an
d
experts ( X =4.43; SD = 0.53) (table 4-22), the mean difference is 0.2998
Table 4-22 shows that, operation is rated as very important in the value
chain of garment companies in Vietnam for both respondents and experts. However,
operation is evaluated more important for respondents from garment companies tha
n
experts.
4.3.1.3 Outbound logistics
Table 4- 23: Outbound logistics
Groups
Importance LevelX S.D Indicator 1 2 3 4 5
Respondents Frequency 0 0 86 56 31
3.68 0.76 Important
Percent 0.0 0.0 49.7 32.4 17.9
Experts
Frequency 0 0 4 3 0
3.57 0.79 Important
Percent 0.0 0.0 42.9 57.1 0
As Sig in Levene s Test for Equality of Variances is 0.849 (table 4-19),
which is more than 0.05, it would be expected to use result in first line of the
table.
The table 4-19 shows that Sig (2-tailed) is 0.707, which is more than 0.05. It
would be concluded that there is not a statistically insignificant difference in
the mean
outbound logistics scores for respondents from garment companies ( X = 3.68, SD=
0.76) and garment experts ( X = 3.57; SD = 0.79) (Table 4-23). The mean differen
ce is
0.1107 (table 4-19)
It can be seen that both respondents and experts considered outbound
logistics playing an important role in the value chain of garment companies in V
ietnam.
However, this variance is rated a little bit more important for respondents than
experts.
4.3.1.4 Marketing and sales
Table 4-24: Marketing and sales
Groups
Importance level
X S.D Indicator 1 2 3 4 5
Respondents Frequency 0 0 23 36 114
4.53 0.72 Most Important
Percent 0 0 13.3 20.8 65.9
Experts Frequency 0 0 0 1 6
4.86 0.38 Most Important
Percent 0 0 0 14.3 85.7
As Sig in Levene s Test for Equality of Variance is 0.006, which is more
than 0.05, it would be expected to use result in first line of this variance in
the table 4
19.
The table 4-19 shows that Sig (2-tailed) is 0.229, which is more than 0.05. It
would be concluded that there is not a statistically significant difference in t
he mean of
marketing and sales scores for respondents from garment companies ( X = 4.53, SD
=
0.72) and experts ( X =4.86; SD = 0.38) (table 4-24), the mean difference is 0.3
3 (table
4-19)
Table 4-24 shows that, marketing and sales is rated as most important
activity in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam for both respondents
and
experts. However, marketing is evaluated more important for experts than respond
ents
from companies.
4.3.1.5 Services
Table 4-25: Services
Groups
Importance level
X S.D Indicator 1 2 3 4 5
Respondents Frequency 0 47 87 39 0
2.95 0.83
Moderately
Important Percent 0 27.2 50.3 22.5 0
Experts Frequency 0 0 0 4 3
4.14 0.69 Important
Percent 0 0 0 57.1 42.9
As Sig in Levene s Test for Equality of Variance is 0.807, which is more
than 0.05, it would be expected to use result in first line of this variance in
the table 4
19.
The table 4-19 shows that Sig (2-tailed) is 0.000, which is less than 0.05. It
would be concluded that there is a statistically significant difference in the m
ean
operation scores for respondents from garment companies ( X = 2.95, SD= 0.83) an
d
experts ( X = 4.14; SD = 0.69) (table 4-25), the mean difference is 1.19
Table 4-25 shows that, respondents rated service as moderately important
activity in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam but experts rated it
as an
important activity.
114
4.3.2 Comparison between respondents and garment experts perceptions
on importance of support activities in the value chain of garment companies in
Vietnam.
Table 4-26: Independent Samples Test
Activities Levene's Test
for Equality of
Variances t-test for Equality of Means
F Sig. t df
Sig. (2tailed)
Mean
Difference
Std. Error
Difference
Infrastructure Equal variances
assumed 0.828 .364 .413 178 .680 .1197 .29007
Equal variances
not assumed 1.711 6.256 .136 .5879 .34364
Human
Resource
Equal variances
assumed .013 .910 -
2.144 178 .033 -.5599 .26118
Equal variances
not assumed
-
2.684 6.815 .032 -.5599 .20858
Technology
Development
Equal variances
assumed 2.507 .115 -.296 178 .767 -.0875 .29553
Equal variances
not assumed -.416 7.058 .690 -.0875 .21041
Procurement Equal variances
assumed 1.814 .180 -
2.056 178 .041 -.5995 .29153
Equal variances
not assumed
-
2.244 6.600 .062 -.5995 .26712
Table 4-27: Group statistics
Groups
Technology
Development Infrastructure
Human
Resource
Management Procurement
Respondents N 173 173 173 173
0 0 0 0
Mean 4.34 3.98 4.01 3.54
S.D 0.77 0.75 0.68 0.76
Experts N 7 7 7 7
0 0 0 0
Mean 4.43 3.86 4.57 4.14
S.D .53 .90 .53 .69
4.3.2.1 Infrastructure
Table 4-28: Infrastructure
Groups
Importance Level
X S.D Indicator 1 2 3 4 5
Respondents Frequency 0 0 50 77 46
3.98 0.75 Important
Percent 0.0 0.0 28.9 44.5 26.6
Experts
Frequency 0 0 3 2 2
3.86 0.90 Important
Percent 0.0 0.0 42.8 28.6 28.6
As Sig in Levene s Test for Equality of Variances is 0.364 (table 4-26),
which is more than 0.05, it would be expected to use result in first line of the
table.
The table 4-26 shows that Sig (2-tailed) is 0.680, which is more than 0.05. It
would be concluded that there is not a statistically significant difference in t
he mean
infrastructure scores for respondents from garment companies ( X = 3.98, SD= 0.7
5)
and garment experts ( X = 3.86; SD = 0.90). The mean difference is 0.1197 (table
4-26)
It can be seen that both respondents and experts considered infrastructure
playing an important role in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam.
However, this variance is rated a little bit more important for respondents than
experts.
4.3.2.2 Human Resource Management
Table 4-29: Human Resource Management
Groups
Importance Level
X S.D Indicator 1 2 3 4 5
Respondents Frequency 0 0 39 93 41
4.01 0.68 Important
Percent 0.0 0.0 22.5 53.8 23.7
Experts
Frequency 0 0 0 3 4
4.57 0.53
Most
Important Percent 0.0 0.0 0 42.9 57.1
As Sig in Levene s Test for Equality of Variances is 0.910 (table 4-26),
which is more than 0.05, it would be expected to use result in first line of the
table.
The table 4-26 shows that Sig (2-tailed) is 0.033, which is less than 0.05. It
would be concluded that there is a statistically significant difference in the m
ean HRM
scores for respondents from garment companies ( X = 4.01, SD= 0.68) and garment
experts ( X = 4.57; SD = 0.53). The mean difference is 0.5599 (table 4-26)
It can be seen that respondents considered HRM playing an important role
in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam but experts considered HRM is
one of the most important activities in the value chain management of garment
companies in Vietnam.
4.3.2.3. Technology Development
Table 4-30: Technology Development
Groups
Importance Level
X S.D Indicator 1 2 3 4 5
Respondents Frequency 0 0 32 50 91
4.34 0.77 Very Important
Percent 0.0 0.0 18.5 28.9 52.6
Experts
Frequency 0 0 3 4 0
4.43 0.53 Very Important
Percent 0.0 0.0 42.9 57.1 0
As Sig in Levene s Test for Equality of Variances is 0.115 (table 4-26),
which is more than 0.05, it would be expected to use result in first line of the
table.
The table 4-26 shows that Sig (2-tailed) is 0.767, which is more than 0.05. It
would be concluded that there is not a statistically significant difference in t
he mean
inbound logistics scores for respondents from garment companies ( X = 4.34, SD=
0.77) and garment experts ( X = 4.43; SD = 0.53). The mean difference is 0.0857
(table
4-26)
It can be seen that both respondents and experts considered Technology
Development playing one of the most important role in the value chain of garment
companies in Vietnam. However, this variance is rated a little bit more importan
t for
experts than respondents.
4.3.2.4 Procurement
Table 4-31: Procurement
Groups
Importance Level
X S.D Indicator 1 2 3 4 5
Respondents Frequency 0 0 107 38 28
3.54 0.76 Important
Percent 0.0 0.0 61.8 22.0 16.2
Experts
Frequency 0 0 1 4 2
4.14 0.69 Important
Percent 0.0 0.0 14.3 57.2 28.6
As Sig in Levene s Test for Equality of Variances is 0.18 (table 4-26),
which is more than 0.05, it would be expected to use result in first line of the
table.
The table 4-26 shows that Sig (2-tailed) is 0.041, which is less than 0.05. It
would be concluded that there is a statistically significant difference in the m
ean
infrastructure scores for respondents from garment companies ( X = 3.54, SD= 0.7
6)
and garment experts ( X = 4.14; SD = 0.69). The mean difference is 0.5995 (table
4-26)
It can be seen that both respondents and experts considered procurement
playing an important role in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam.
However, this variance is rated much more important for respondents than experts
.
4.4 Opinions of experts summarization
4.4.1 Strengths and weaknesses of garment companies in Vietnam
Strengths
1.
Low cost labors are available in Vietnam and can be good skill labors if they ar
e
trained well. Most of the workers in the Vietnamese apparel industry work
hardly. They are extremely disciplined and focused on their tasks. Most of the
factories had clean working facilities and surroundings.
2.
Technology in garment companies is much better than before. Sewing machines
and other equipments are new and modern.
3.
The relationship with big salesmen in the world is enhanced.
4.
Vietnam is considered as a stable, safe, and attractive destination of overseas
importers and investors.
Weaknesses
1.
Production and technology management is not very effectively.
2.
Productivity is low: there are 771,447 sewing machine with capacity 2,150
million products (standard shirt) and 902,000 workers are used with a nomarl
working time 300 days/year so the productivity is only about 8 shirts/day (The
yellow book of statistics of Statistics Department, 2004).
3.
The lack of adequate knowledge of English seems to be a big obstacle to further
and rapid development of workers skills. This has special significance for
personnel working as supervisors, managers, or CAD/CAM operators.
Inadequate knowledge of English leads to difficulties in communication with
buyers; understanding specifications; using advanced software; and in
developing global commercial and fashion awareness.
4.
Merchandising as a functional activity is largely missing in Vietnam, although
most garment companies are beginning to realize the importance of
merchandising as a nodal and important function. Most companies have little or
no experience in sourcing fabrics, trims or accessories, sampling, price
quotation.
5.
With regard to Marketing, only some companies are consciously marketing its
products, but even here, the larger focus of marketing seems to be the domestic,
and not the export market. Only a small percentage of apparel companies
participate regularly in international Trade Fairs (about 3 per year) in Hong
Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Germany, USA, and Thailand. Trade mark of
Vietnamese garment companies are not yet well known in the world.
6.
Most of the raw materials (fabrics and trimmings) are imported, mostly from
countries such as Indonesia, Malaysia, Japan, UK, Korea, Taiwan, China, and
Hong Kong. Only a limited quantity and type (such as polyester) of fabrics are
sourced from within Vietnam.
7.
Uncompetitive about services, transportation fees compare with other
developing country.
4.4.2 Policy regime for garment companies in Vietnam
In this part, experts and policy makers were asked to list policy regime that
Vietnamese government has used to support for the development of textile and gar
ment
industry. In experts opinions although in the previous few years, the export turn
over
from garment industry grew rather fast, especially after the VN-US Bilateral Tra
de
Agreement came into effect, the textile and garment industry would be severely h
it as
all barriers for textile and garment products would be lifted for WTO country me
mbers
by 1 Jan 2005. This is causing unlimited supplies of garment and textile product
s from
developing countries to developed countries. The Government has approved the mas
ter
plan for the development of the Vietnam s textile and garment industry. This maste
r
plan, entitled the speed-up development strategy for Vietnam s garment and textile
industry up to 2010 for job promotion and increase of export turnover, has two m
ajor
policy objectives, (i) increasing value added of the Vietnam s garment industry, b
y
shifting production modality from FOB to CMT (ii) increasing domestic contents o
f
garment exports by actively investing in the cotton, spinning and weaving indust
ries.
Vietnamese government also has enforced many support regimes for the
development of Textile and garment industry. In term 55/2001 of the government,
the
textile and garment industry will be supported to 2010 with many projects invest
in to:
fiber production, fabric and accessories production, textile and garment mechani
c,
training and education, etc. The regime policies and their implementations are
illustrated in following table.
122
Table 4-32: Support policies in government s strategy to develop textile and garme
nt
industry in the term 55/2001/QD-TTg of Vietnamese government.
No. Content Term QD 55/CP
to 2005
Implementation to
31/12/2004
Note
1 Support textile and garment
industry by government
budget and ODA to invest
in to research, training and
infrastructure.
Total support in 4
years: 78,03 billion
vnd.
Fulfill 50%
of need
2 Support loans to invest in to
fiber, fabric and accessories
production.
Total investment:
35.000 billion vnd
Reach
20,3% of
plan.
3 VAT refund for fabric and
accessories that produced
domestic.
Being
prepared
4 Support 30% of operating
investment for state own
enterprises
2001: 121,85 bil. VND
2002: 754,55 bil. VND
2003: 685,40 bil. VND
2004: 313,66 bil. VND
2001: 34,3 bil. VND
2002: 13,8 bil. VND
2003: 13,4 bil. VND
2004: 9,5 bil. VND
5 Spend all of quota fees for
export market expansion.
Start to collect quota
fees since 2004.
In 2004 distribute to:
* VINATAS: 1,587
bil. VND
* Vinatex: 1,9 bil.
VND
Reach 3,8 %
of
requirement.
6 Incentive to export to USA
market.
Start to implement in
the end of 2001,
Vinatex got 9,179
billion VND
4.4.3 Opportunities and challenges of garment companies of Vietnam
Opportunities
1.
Moving production trend from developed countries to developing
countries opening a new opportunities for garment companies in
Vietnam. This trend will lead to transfer of equipments, technology, and
management and high qualify labors from developed country to
developing countries, including Vietnam.
2.
Globalization brings to Vietnam many new opportunities, including
textile and garment. Textile and garment companies in Vietnam will
have chance to expand their markets in USA and other markets.
3.
Domestic market with a population of 84 million persons and increasing
GDP per capita will be enough big and profitable market to serve.
Challenges
1.
Strong competitiveness from China, India, Bangladesh, Srilanca and
Indonesia.
2.
The possibility of being sued for dumping in the U.S. because Vietnam
is perceived as an important long-term supplier to the U.S.
3.
Since Vietnam is not yet a member of the World Trade Organization
(WTO), it will not competitive compare with other competitors.
4.
Implementation of government s incentive and support policies is facing
many problems.
5.
Increasing of non-tariff barriers such as: Safety and industry hygiene,
social responsibilities.
4.4.4 The policies that Vietnamese government should implement to help
garment companies in Vietnam improving their value chain management.
Some of experts said that Vietnam should pay much more attention to
improving management skills in product development, upgrading production and
distribution channel, training adequate human resources to carry out product des
ign and
development process, and, not least important, expanding to highly-demanded dome
stic
market.
Relating to development of upstream industries through actively investing in
those, many scholars keep their skeptical views on this strategy due to likely d
ecline in
the demand for domestic textiles if import duties are reduced in 2006. By that t
ime, the
upstream industry may face with difficulties. If the country insists on developi
ng
upstream industry, it should limit to areas leading to enhancing quality and cus
tomer
confidence. However, enhancing competitiveness of upstream industry through
selective investment is not enough for increasing the content ratio. Opportunity
for and
facilitators of production linkage should also be established and enhanced.
The issue of what are the roles of the government in the development process of
this industry is also debated. Interviewees thought that the government and VINA
TEX
should play as the facilitators for the development of the industry though provi
sion of
information, development of physical infrastructure, and institutional support.
The role
of VINATEX should be realigned to become an agency providing services such as
training, designing, testing and research to both SOEs and non-state enterprises
.
4.5 Second data analysis
Due to the limitation of primary data about garment companies in Vietnam, to
help readers have more clear picture about garment enterprises in Vietnam in spe
cific
and Textile and Garment industry of Vietnam in general, the researcher also look
for
good source of secondary data and try to analyze them. This part also considered
as one
of bases for the recommendation part of the next chapter.
4.5.1 Other classification of Garment companies in Vietnam
4.4.1.1 Location of both textile and garment companies in Vietnam
Location of textile and garment
companies in Vietnam
The North
The middle
The south
The North
20.8%
The south
74.0%
The
middle
5.3%
Figure 4-7: Location of textile and garment companies in Vietnam
Source: Economic and technical textile and garment institute, Vinatex, 2005
Chart 4-7 shows that, most of textile and garment companies located in the North
of Vietnam (74.0%) followed by The North with 20.8% and finally the Middle with
only
5.3. There are 405 textile and garment enterprise in the North (22.3%). Those en
terprises
located mainly in Hanoi (157 enterprise, 8.0%), 135 enterprises (6.9%) located i
n
provinces near by Hanoi: Bac Ninh, Bac Giang, Ha Tay, Hung Yen, Hai Duong, Hai
Phong, Quang Ninh. Other provinces such as Nam Dinh, Ha Nam, Thai Binh, Ninh Bin
h
have 71 enterprises (1.6%)
There are 103 enterprises (5.3%) in the Middle of Vietnam, located mainly in Da
Nang, Khanh Hoa, Lam Dong, Thua Thien, Quang Tri, Quang Nam, Quang Ngai, Binh
Dinh.
The South has 1.443 enterprises (occupy 72.4% of total) located mainly in Ho
Chi Minh with 1.090 enterprises (55.9%), follows by other provinces near by Ho C
hi
Minh include: Long An, Dong Nai, Binh Duong, Ba Ria Vung Tau with 293
enterprises (15%) and there are 22 enterprise (1.1%) located in Tien River Area
include
Tien Giang Ben Tre, Tra Vinh, Dong Thap, Can Tho province.
4.5.1.2 Textile and Garment companies classified by initial
investment
Textile and garment companies in
Vietnam with initial investment
5 billion
> 5 billion
1-5 billion
16.8%
vnd
40.1%
Figure 4-8: Textile and garment companies in Vietnam with initial investment
Note: $1 = vnd 15,860 (February, 2006)
vnd
18.2%
0.5-1
billion vnd
vnd
24.9%
Figure 4-8 shows that, textile and garment companies which have initial
investment form 1-5 billion vnd are most common in Vietnam with 40.1%, follow by
5
billion vnd (24.9%), more than 5 billion vnd (18.2%) and 0.5-1 billion present 1
6.8%.
4.4.1.3 Garment companies in Vietnam classified by the owners
State own enterprise
Non state own enterprises
FDI enterprises
State own
enterprise
22.6%
FDI
enterprises
Non state
35.4%
own
enterprises
42.0%
Figure 4-9: Owners of garment enterprises in Vietnam
In figure 4-9, of 717 enterprises, 42.0% of Vietnam garment enterprises are non-
state own enterprises. FDI enterprises occupy 35.4% and state own enterprises is
22.6%. Compare with almost 100% state own enterprises in closed economic period
(before 1980), percent of state own enterprise has decreased year by year. And t
o year
2004, the percent of state own is only 22.6 (162 enterprises), while non state o
wn
enterprises occupy 42.0% (301 enterprises) and there are 254 FDI enterprises. Th
is
means that thanks to the open policy, the non state own and FDI are playing more
important roles in the development of the industry.
4.5.1.4 Textile and garment enterprises classified by products
Trade and
service
Fiber
19,3%
4.3%
Textile
17.4%
Garment
64.8%
Accessories
1.6%
Figure 4-10: Products of Textile and garment Enterprises.
Figure 4-10 shows that Garment enterprises occupy 64.8% of whole industry,
trade and service occupy 19.3%, follow by textile enterprises 17.4%, fiber 4.3%,
accessories 1.6%.
Table 4-33: Supply of garment companies in Vietnam
Name Units Domestic
production
Import Needs Percent of
Import
1. Fabric Mil.m2 518 1,512 2,130 71%
5. Thread 1000 tons 3.5 1.5 5.0 30%
6. Zipper Mil.m 60 140 200 70%
7. Inter liner Mil. m2 25 40 65 61%
Source: VINATEX and Year book of GSO, 2004
Table 4-33 shows that production of fabric, thread, zipper and inter liner is no
t
enough for the need of garment companies in Vietnam. With fabric, garment
companies need 2,130 million square meters but domestic production is only 518
million so garment companies in Vietnam have to import 1,512 million m2 lead to
percent of import is 71%. With zipper, garment companies need about 200 million
meters, but domestic suppliers can only supply60 so garment companies have to
import 140 million meters (70%). This situation is almost same with inter liner
and
even thread, garment companies have to import 1.5 thousand tons (30%). It shows
that, the material production of domestic textile firm can t fulfill the need of
garment companies in Vietnam. This leads to a deep dependent on the overseas
suppliers of garment companies in Vietnam. The upstream linkage between textile
and garment is quite weak in Vietnam.
4.5.2 Labour status of Vietnam
Table 4-34: Ability level of labor in Vietnamese textile and garment industry
Level of ability Textile (%) Garment (%)
Post graduate 0.08 0.01
Bachelor and college level 7.04 4.00
Intermediate level 4.71 3.50
technician 3.34 3.78
Worker 5/7 18.82 6.30
Unskilled worker 66.01 78.91
intermediate
Bachelor and
level
college level technician
Post 3.63%
4.15%
3.92%
Worker
6.53%
Source: Year books of GSO, 2004
Figure 4-11: Ability level of labor in Vietnamese textile and garment industry
graduate
0.01%
unskilled
labor
81.77%
Table 4-34 shows that the percent of high education and training is very low in
both textile and garment companies. In garment, post graduate occupies only 0.01
%,
bachelor and college level occupy only 4.00%, intermediate level is 3.50%, techn
ician
is 3.78 %, worker 5/7 grade is 6.30% and the last unskilled worker occupy 78.91%
.
In the development strategy of textile and garment industry, which is approved
by Vietnamese government to 2010, Vinatex estimates that textile and garment
companies in Vietnam need about 600 designers, 1,200 marketing and export
promotion officers, 400 textile and dying technicians. But they are not availabl
e in the
labor market.
4.5.3 Production forecast and the domestic demands
Textile and garment output of Vietnam
0
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
Fiber (thounsand ton) Fabric (mil. M) Garment ( mil. Products)
Fiber (thounsand ton) 67.54 69.08 73.73 129.9 162.4 226.8 234.6 239 260 350 500
600
Fabric (mil. M) 299 315 317 356.4 410.1 469.6 496.4 518.2 600 1000 1500 2000
Garment ( mil. Products) 327 304 335 424 451 602 875 926 1100 1800 2850 4000
1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005* 2010* 2015* 2020*
Figure 4-12: Textile and Garment out put of Vietnam
Source: Economic and technical textile and garment institute, Vinatex 2004
Note: * estimated number.
Figure 4-11 shows that, the out put of fiber, fabric and garment is increasing.
However, due to the shape of the chart and the data in the attached table, garme
nt has
increasing fastest, fiber and fabric out put has increasing slower. In 2005, the
out put of
fiber is 260 thousand tons but in 2010, the out put of fiber estimated will be 6
00
thousand tons (increase 130%). The out put of fabric in 2005 is 600 million mete
rs, in
2010 estimated will be 2,000 million meters (increase 233%) but the out put of g
arment
will increase from 1,100 million products to 4,000 million products (increase 26
3%).
So with this trend, the local production of material is still not enough for the
needs of
garment companies in Vietnam in next 15 years Unit: $
GDP per capita of Vietnam
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
900
GDP per capita
GDP per capita 402.1 412.9 440 441.9 554.6 590 630 670 710 750 800
2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005* 2006* 2007* 2008* 2009* 2010*
Figure 4-13: GDP per capita of Vietnam
Source: Economic and technical textile and garment institute, Vinatex 2004
Note: * estimated number.
Figure 4-12 shows GDP per capita of Vietnam to 2010. In 2000 the GDP per capita
of Vietnam was $402.1, in 2005 it is 590 and in 2010 it estimated will be $800.
This is
good trend for consumption of textile and garment. The domestic market of more t
han
82 million people and of 100 million people in 2010 has big potential. According
to
estimates, GDP per capita in Vietnam will be USD 600 - 800 up to 2005 and USD 90
0 -
1,200 up to 2010. This would take demand for consumer goods to USD 250 - 350 per
capita in 2005 and USD 400 - 450 in 2010, of which 6-8% is the average proportio
n of
expenditure on textiles and garments, such average will be exceeded by far in th
e big
cities (Ministry of Trade, 2004).
CHAPTER 5
CONCLUSIONS, DISCUSSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
This chapter includes three sections.
Section 1: The results and conclusions of the study.
Section 2: Discussions
Section 3: Recommendations
5.1 Conclusions
The study used both of the primary data and the secondary data to identify the
value chain management of garment companies in Vietnam. The percentage and
descriptive statistics were used for analyze the primary data. The secondary dat
a is
processed by comparing through time series and analyzing.
In order to explore the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam, the
questionnaire were sent to 317 garment companies. The 173 qualified returned
questionnaires show the executives opinions on the value chain of garment compani
es
in Vietnam in 9 activities. The data collected through questionnaires were analy
zed by
percentage and descriptive statistics.
By percentage analysis, the demographics of garment companies are revealed
and by descriptive analysis the effectiveness of every activity was evaluated in
terms of
mean and standard deviation. Activities were rated from not at all effective (wo
rst)
level to very effective (best) level. In conclusion of 173 respondents, there ar
e 7
activities that are managed moderately effective. They are inbound logistics (me
an =
3.25), outbound logistics (mean = 3.26), services (mean = 2.86), technology
development (mean = 2.84), human resource management (mean = 2.77), infrastructu
re
(mean = 3.21) and procurement (mean = 3.00). Two activities that are managed not
too
effectively are: marketing and sales. Only one activity is managed effectively i
s
production (mean = 3.43).
To recommend for government policy makers and firms, the researcher asked
respondents and experts to rate the importance of primary activities and support
activities on the value chain management of garment companies in Vietnam. The
technique t-tests analysis is utilized to compare the perceptions of respondents
from
garment companies and garment experts on the importance of activities in the val
ue
chain of garment companies in Vietnam.
Inbound logistics is considered as an important activity in the value chain by
respondents (mean = 3.65, S.D = 0.71) and experts (mean = 3.57, S.D = 0.53), the
mean
difference is 0.08. Both respondents and experts considered operation playing ve
ry
important role in the value chain. Respondents rated it with mean = 4.73 higher
comparing with mean = 4.43 of experts. Outbound logistics is considered as an
important activity in the value chain by respondents (mean = 3.68, S.D=0.76) and
experts (mean=3.57, S.D=0.79), the mean difference is 0.09. Both respondents and
experts thought that marketing and sales playing very important role in the valu
e chain
of garment companies with mean = 4.53 and 4.86. There is a significant differenc
e
between rate score of respondents and experts about importance of service in the
value
chain. Respondents considered service as a moderately important activities (mean
=
2.95, S.D=0.83) in the value chain of garment companies but experts thought that
it is
an important activity (mean = 4.14, S.D = 0.69). With support activities, both
respondents and experts considered technology development playing a very importa
nt
role in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. Mean score of responden
ts is
4.34 and mean score of experts is 4.43. Infrastructure is considered as an impor
tant
activity in the value chain of garment companies by both respondents (mean=3.98,
S.D=0.75) and experts (mean=3.86, S.D =0.90). There is a significant difference
in
mean score of HRM between respondents and experts. Respondents considered HRM is
an important activity with mean=4.01, S.D = 0.68 while experts considered HRM is
a
very important activity in the value chain of garment companies. The mean differ
ence
is 0.56. Even both respondents and experts considered procurement playing an
important role in the value chain of garment companies but there is a significan
t
difference between the mean score of respondents (mean = 3.54, S.D = 0.76) and
experts (mean = 4.14, S.D=0.69), the mean difference is 0.6.
Another purpose of the study is to recommend the appropriate policy to improve
the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. In order to improve the value c
hain
management of garment companies in Vietnam, recommendations are needed for both
government s side and firms side. That one will be delivered in next part of this
chapter.
5.2 Discussions
This study found many interesting finding about the value chain management of
garment companies in Vietnam. This investigation was conducted by questionnaire
and
interview. The strength of this study can be considered not only primary but als
o
secondary data. In this part the results and findings from the study are discuss
ed as
following
5.2.1 Inbound logistics
TNT N.V., the holding company of the two brands TNT and Royal TPG Post, a
global leader in logistics, mail and express defines Inbound logistics is the
management of a complex supply chain from suppliers to manufacturers . It is the
management of flow of materials from suppliers to raw material inventory to
production to working process inventory and finally in finished goods. The resul
t of
this study actually come form the primary data. By using t-test, result shows th
at both
respondents and experts considered inbound logistics playing an important role i
n the
value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. However, this variance is rated a l
ittle
bit more important for respondents than experts. In experts perception, some acti
vities
of inbound logistics can be outsourcing. By rating the efficiency of inbound log
istics
with some activities management of inbound logistic such as receiving fabric, st
oring,
handling, inventory control and transportation scheduling the respondents show t
hat
inbound logistics are managed moderately efficient with mean = 3.25 (table 4-8).
This
activity may need some improvements and if technology and HRM of the companies
are improved it will lead to improvement of this activity.
5.2.2 Operations
A production system uses operations resources to transform input into some
desired output (Daniels, John D and L.H Redebangh, 1998). Operation management
may be defined as the design, operation and improvement of the production system
s
that create the firm s primary products or services. So operation is considered ma
naging
effectively when it has a good design and operated at high productivity and save
of
inputs. Table 4-22 shows that, operation is rated as very important in the value
chain of
garment companies in Vietnam for both respondents and experts. However, operatio
n is
evaluated more important for respondents from garment companies than experts (me
an
of respondents is X = 4.73, SD= 0.45 and mean of experts is X =4.43; SD = 0.53).
There is a fact that fashion nowadays changing very fast; the delivery time is
one of the most important factors to get the order. Respondent from garment comp
anies
with a long history of doing CMT orders, still focus on production, while garmen
t
expert more focus on marketing of view. On the other hand, the finding in
questionnaires shows that operation is only manage somewhat between moderately
efficient and efficient with mean = 3.43 (table 4-8) by rating efficient level o
f
production scheduling, pattern making, spreading and cutting, garment assembling
,
finishing and packaging and machine maintenance. So it needs some manages to be
improved.
Before studying MBA, the researcher had spent some months in India and
Indonesia to do research about Roles of Marketing and Merchandising in garment
companies . The researcher did internships in many garment companies there and saw
that the garment companies in Vietnam have better operation systems. However,
productivity in garment companies in Vietnam is not high due to some reason such
as:
slow material flow. In marketing point of view, if HRM and technology of garment
companies in Vietnam is improved, the operation management of garment companies
in
Vietnam will be more effective.
5.2.3 Outbound logistics
Outbound logistics can be seen as a part of supply chain concerned with the
management of flow of finished goods to consumers (Chandra, 1997). It can be see
n
that both respondents and experts considered outbound logistics playing an impor
tant
role in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. However, this variance
is
rated a little bit more important for respondents than experts ( X = 3.68, SD= 0
.76
compares with X = 3.57; SD = 0.79). The mean difference is 0.1107 (table 4-19).
The differences between finding of questionnaire and experts interview may
have the same reason as the researcher discussed in part 5.2.1.
By analyzing descriptive of questionnaires, outbound logistics is revealed as a
moderately effective activity with mean = 3.26.
5.2.4 Marketing and sales
Director of Business Partners, South Africa s leading specialized investment
group for small and medium enterprises said that Marketing your business is one o
f
the most important things you can do to ensure its success (2001) and there is no
argument about this. Table 4-24 of this study shows that, marketing and sales is
rated as
most important activity in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam for b
oth
respondents and experts. However, marketing is evaluated more important for expe
rts
than respondents from companies (mean of respondents is X = 4.53, SD= 0.72 and
mean of experts is X =4.86; SD = 0.38) (table 4-23), the mean difference is 0.33
(table
4-19). As mentioned above, in new trend of business, experts considered marketin
g is
very important in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam.
Due to lack of experience, marketing and sales are managed not very effective in
their companies, marketing had been rated at mean = 2.12 and sales had been rate
d at
mean = 2.19. Number shows that nowadays, garment companies in Vietnam start to
evaluate marketing and sales as more important functions. Due to some changing
conditions, CMT orders are no longer easy to get. Garment companies in Vietnam h
ave
to start thinking to move toward FOB orders (Till Freyer, 2004). This trend requ
ires
garment companies in Vietnam more efforts to improve their marketing and sales s
kills.
Experts all agreed that this activity is quite weak in the value chain of garmen
t
companies in Vietnam and need to be improved.
5.2.5 Services
Table 4-25 shows that, respondents rated service as moderately important activit
y
( X = 2.95, SD= 0.83) but experts rated it as an important activity ( X = 4.14;
SD =
0.69) (table 4-25), the mean difference is 1.19. There are facts that garment co
mpanies
in Vietnam due to long history of doing CMT order still focus on production. Eve
n they
start to consider marketing as an important function but they still are weak at
communication with buyer. When buyers come to their factories they still don t kno
w
how to make them feel good, and offer buyer efficient services (Till Freyer, 200
4). In
their value chain this activities is managed moderately effective with mean = 2.
86, in
details customer support is not managed well and complain handling is managed
moderately effective. This finding shows that garment companies not yet have a c
lear
business view in the new conditions. They may think that services are not very
important with manufacturers like them and garment products are something that n
o
needs to have service after sales. They may not see the fact that support custom
er
service can make their companies are different compare with their competitors.
This issue was discussed with experts and they suggest that the garment
companies in Vietnam, especially state own and non state own enterprises should
consider this activity is more important and need to be improved because nowadays
,
the customers will walked in to your factory only they have good image about you
r
service, both before and after sales (Till Freyer, 2004).
5.2.6 Infrastructure
Both respondents and experts considered infrastructure playing an important role
in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam (mean of respondents is X = 3
.98,
SD= 0.75 and mean of garment experts is X = 3.86; SD = 0.90). However, this vari
ance
is rated a little bit more important for respondents than experts. The mean diff
erence is
0.1197 (table 4-26).
By rating the effective level of general management, planning management,
finance management, quality management, all of these activities are somewhat
effective. In conclusion, infrastructure is managed somewhat effective with mean
=
3.21. This activity needs some more efforts to be improved because nowadays, the
top
management of garment companies is still weak and trapped in a bulk and ineffect
ive
administration system (Duc Vuong, 2001).
5.2.7 Human Resources Management
It can be seen from table 4-28 that respondents considered HRM playing an
important role in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam ( X = 4.01, SD
=
0.68) but experts considered HRM is one of the most important activities in the
value
chain management of garment companies in Vietnam ( X = 4.57; SD = 0.53). The mea
n
difference is 0.5599 (table 4-26)
The findings show that it is managed moderately effective with mean = 2.77
(table 4-15). In fact, workers in Vietnam are considered work hard and skillful
if they
are trained well. Human resource management includes many activities such as
recruitment, training, retention and compensation etc,. With recruiting, garment
companies in Vietnam still be affected by traditional ways such as choosing staf
f base
on the relationship of that one to top managers. Another fact, there are lack of
vocational schools in Vietnam and good students don t like to study in vocational
schools. Most of workers and staffs work for garment companies in Vietnam are no
t
trained well before working (Christiane, 2005). Moreover, most of garment compan
ies
in Vietnam pay workers by pieces not by working hours, but there is a waste of t
ime in
material flows so productivity in garment companies in Vietnam is still low.
5.2.8 Technology development
Both respondents and experts considered Technology Development playing one
of the most important role in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam (m
ean
of respondents is X = 4.34, SD= 0.77 and mean of garment experts is X = 4.43; SD
=
0.53). However, this variance is rated a little bit more important for experts t
han
respondents (the mean difference is 0.0857).
By rating the effective level of activities, in conclusion, technology developme
nt
is managed somewhat efficient (mean = 2.84). In fact if compare with other compe
titors
such as India and Indonesia, technology of garment industry in Vietnam is consid
ered
quite modern. Most of garment companies in Vietnam are using modern sewing
machine system. With plenty of labor and with a labor intensive industry like ga
rment
if the technology development is managed well, the productivity in garment compa
nies
in Vietnam would be higher (Arindam Das, 2001). However the finding shows that
experts are not very satisfy with technology development of garment companies in
Vietnam.
5.2.9 Procurement
It can be seen that both respondents and experts considered procurement playing
an important role in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam. However, t
his
variance is rated much more important for experts than respondents (mean of
respondent is X = 3.54, SD= 0.76 and mean of garment experts is X = 4.14; SD =
0.69). The mean difference is 0.5995 (table 4-26)
Procurement is built up by many activities. By rating the effective level of tho
se
activities, procurement of stationary, procurement of services, are managed mode
rately
effective. Procurement of machine is considered efficient with mean = 3.49 and
procurement of material is managed not too effective with mean = 2.25 (table 4-1
2). In
conclusion, procurement is managed moderately effective in garment companies in
Vietnam. In experts perception, in procurement, procurement of material is very
important and there is a fact that one of weak points of garment companies in Vi
etnam
is input. Most of fabric and accessories are imported but most of garment compan
ies in
Vietnam are weak of buying materials (Till Freyer, 2003).
5.3 Recommendations
Vietnam has made a remarkable transition from a centrally planned economy to
opened market in the direction of a mixed market economy increasingly integrated
into
the world economy. A key element of this transition understands the way internat
ional
markets for goods, services and investment operate. This issue is of prime impor
tance
in the textile and, especially, garment industry. Garment is a consumer-oriented
industry employing standard, 'mature' technology. Significant capital investment
is not
required; what is highly important is knowledge of international marketing chann
els,
attention to quality control, management of stocks, and a capacity to deliver re
liable
supply.
The mission formed the view producers in the industry tend to adhere to a
'production/engineering approach' rather than a 'market/efficiency approach'. Bo
th
approaches of course are needed, but in such labour-intensive consumer-oriented
industries, the latter is arguably more important. The overwhelming impression o
f the
mission is that Vietnam's industry is almost entirely passive in its marketing a
pproach firms
are adept at producing products efficiently and reliably for buyers, but the
initiative to seek out new buyers, understand and engage international marketing
networks, and experiment with new designs and products is rarely taken. There is
concern that firms are producing low value added products, and that they are to
some
extent at the mercy of international buyers, particularly at present following t
he sharp
devaluations in some competitor countries. As long as this passive approach pers
ists,
Vietnam's firms are likely to be locked into a low value added production cycle,
with
little scope to upgrade.
There is no simple solution to overcome this problem, but the key general point
to emphasize is that the country will need to strengthen its international conne
ctions in
a variety of ways.
First, 'country reputation' is important. As Wells (1993) and others have
demonstrated, East Asian business is characterized by great mobility of both inv
estors
and buying agents. Vietnam is in the early stages of creating such a reputation,
but its
reputation is still very much that of a late-comer, and much needs to be done to
cement
its place as an important 'fourth tier' economy in the long sweep of East Asian
development.
Secondly, it needs to be emphasized that the establishment and strengthening of
international linkages is not a large-scale, one-off process. The channels consi
st of
many, often small-scale, commercial agents, involving repeat transactions. The
importance of Hong Kong as a key source of marketing, financial and technical
expertise was emphasized above. It is instructive also to recognize that these
international linkages are often informal and small-scale.
Third, it makes sense for a country to exploit whatever international connection
s
it possesses to facilitate commercial success. Vietnam's international exposure
is still
quite limited, but it is not entirely absent. It has historical links to Eastern
Europe and
the former USSR (Union of Soviet Socialist Republics). As these economies recove
r
from the traumas of transition, they could be become significant markets for
Vietnamese firms.
Beside that, there are many works to do with the government as well as the
firms to maintain and improve the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam.
5.3.1 Recommendations for the government
For firms to be internationally competitive, they need not only supportive
macroeconomic but they also need a conducive microeconomic environment. Wherever
there are obstacles to efficient business practice, which prevent firms from ach
ieving
best-practice standards of management and production, commercial opportunities w
ill
be missed, production will be less than it otherwise could have been, internatio
nal
competitiveness will be harmed, and Vietnam's capacity to deliver productive
employment will be diminished.
Governments can assist the process of shifting to best-practice, higher value
added activities by overcoming problems of market failures in the provision of k
ey
inputs. These initiatives need to be linked to - and indeed will only work if
accompanied by - enterprise and institutional reforms. The issue is not so much
the
government itself undertaking a major modernization and re-equipment of the indu
stry,
but rather in creating a commercial environment in which firms have the incentiv
e and
capacity to undertake these themselves. In such an environment, the government c
ould
make a great contribution through facilitating the establishment of industry-dri
ven
research institutes which quickly disseminate the latest information on global t
rends in
markets, fashion, and design, together with more technical production know-how.
In order to maintain and improve the value chain of garment companies in
Vietnam, Vietnamese government should have proper policy for development of the
industry. Some recommends are as following:
1. Create a level playing field for enterprises of different sectors by graduall
y
removing indirect subsidies for state-owned enterprises in terms of access to la
nd,
credit and quota allocation and by improving the accounting and auditing system.
Speed up equalization of the state-owned enterprises and harmonies the State's
investment with the policy of reducing the State's direct participation.
2. Design a proper strategy for development of the textile and garment industry.
Key target should be the expansion of the garment sector by strengthening backwa
rd
integration.
3. Import protection for the industry should take the form of lower tariffs and
be
consistent with Vietnam's obligations under CEPT, AFTA, APEC and WTO.
4. Through budget funded or foreign aid projects, help enterprises in technical
assistance to implement agreements, such as SA 8000, trademark registration, res
earch
and development, and training.
5. Establish concentrated trade centers in potential market in order to support
enterprises in marketing, exhibition and show, trademark advertisement, organize
and
provide funding to regular study tours, trade fair abroad for enterprises.
6. Support in human resource training and legal aid:
The government needs to have a policy for training of human resource
for the textile and garment industry, using the budget or foreign aid.
Establish representative office abroad to provide legal counsel to local
enterprises in doing business, investment, or to protect their trademark,
thus to protect the interests of Vietnamese enterprises abroad.
7. The government should help textile and garment related services, such as
industrial software, equipment and parts supply, technical services, trade promo
tion,
trade mark development, franchise, design, training, quality control, management
etc.
to get the foreign investment.
8. The government and VINATEX should play as the facilitators for the
development of the industry though provision of information, development of phys
ical
infrastructure, and institutional support. The role of VINATEX should be realign
ed to
become an agency providing services such as training, designing, testing and res
earch
to both SOEs and non-state enterprises.
9. If import duties are reduced in 2006 it will be likely decline in the demand
for
domestic textiles. By that time, the upstream industry may face with difficultie
s. If the
government insists on developing upstream industry, the government should have
policies to enhance competitiveness of upstream industry through selective inves
tment
and opportunity for and facilitators of production linkage should also be establ
ished and
enhanced.
5.3.2 Recommendations for the firms
At the moment, to focus on shifting from CMT production modality to FOB
one, Garment companies in Vietnam should pay much more attention to improving
management skills in product development, distribution channel, training adequat
e
human resources to carry out product design and development process, and, not le
ast
important, expanding to highly-demanded domestic market (Till Freyer, Christinan
e,
2005).
In order to improve the value chain management, garment companies in
Vietnam should look back their value chain management. They should know which
activities in their value chain are strategic and then focus on those activities
, trace cost
to those activities efficiently and use cost information to manage their activit
ies. As
finding in section 2 of chapter 4 and discussion in section 2 of this chapter: o
peration,
marketing and sales, HRM and technology development should be considered as key
activities of garment companies in Vietnam and should be improved. Following
strategies can be applied:
1. More flexibility, dynamism, cooperation and clear policies are needed. Both,
the Garment and Textile Industry (production of fabric- dying finishing) have to
build
up close relationship to design a strategy for further development and to establ
ish a
strong Textile-Garment Association as a channel of communication and pool for
information for international customers as the result from the research shows th
at the
upstream linkage between garment enterprises and textile firms is weak.
2. Following aspects of production are related and must be counted and
improved together:
Accuracy on cutting
A clear concept and divide the job between making of ' 'Spare parts" and
"Assembly Parts into a garment".
Provide a suitable handling environment for a particular sewing
operation
Reduce the time of material flow.
3. Invest in marketing
Garment companies in Vietnam should more focus on marketing for example:
Having a close look and constant research to overseas/global markets and custome
rs
and getting started to use all kind of sources of information frequently, for ex
ample
visit of international Textile fairs. Brand name, fashion cycle, and labeling ar
e
mentioned as important factors to be successful in garment business in Chapter 2
(Gini
Stephens, 2001). Today s general target is to transform a local label into a globa
l brand
name. This requires even bigger advertising budgets and efforts (Till Freyer, 20
04). A
yearly promotion budget so should be established and advertising channels decide
d base
on fashion cycle, objectives and budget of firm because they shall raise the con
sumers
awareness of a brand and wish to own a garment with this label.
Costing a garment is very important as Gini Stephens mentioned in his book Fashio
n
from concept to consumer (2001). A buyer so will get very impatient of he cannot
get a
price immediately for a style as displayed so marking it on samples and show to
customer
can help to overcome this problem.
4. Improve service by improving office image and sample room
The appearance of the entire office, workplace and personality leave a lasting
impression on customers. They are very much part of a company image. Most buyers
are
likely to come from Europe or the USA and are used to modern surroundings. Garme
nt
companies in Vietnam so should welcome them in a similar atmosphere and make the
m
feel at home . Normally, the visitor looks around as soon as he enters the office.
He
makes a quick inspection of working desks, samples on tables, shelves (and sometim
es
floor), whether it is orderly or messy and thinks this is an efficient (or ineffi
cient)
operation . The result will influence his decision to make the order or not (Till
Freyer,
2004). So a neglected, dirty building needing repairs and painting puts off a vi
sitor
immediately. It is worthwhile to invest in the reception and give it a modern lo
ok.
The sample room is a very vital facility in garment exports. It allows a visitin
g
buyer to choose a fabric for a desired style (Gini Stephens, 2001). So garment c
ompanies
in Vietnam should keep shown samples up-to-date and keep the room clean and in g
ood
order. Each hanger should describe the quality, width, supply source (coded), pr
ice.
Normally buyer comes from a modern, affluent country with excellent facilities i
ncluding
shops. So it is necessary to make it easy for him to imagine what products will
look like
in his retail outlets. The ideal showroom is set up like a retail outlet. It sho
uld provide
space for both hanging and folded garments. Up-to-date styles, fabrics and color
s should
be present to prove that the company is following fashion trends. Full informati
on
therefore needs to be shown on hangtags on each style.
5. Improve Human resource
Garment companies in Vietnam should invest in training of personnel (in terms
of marketing, merchandising, design, production management and selling) because
the
study (primary data and secondary data) shows that human resource of garment
companies in Vietnam is weak. Human resource management should deal with all
human aspects of an organization in accordance with Management s directives and
Government rules with wide ranging responsibilities. Following activities should
be
managed better: Employment and sometimes dismissal of staff and workers,
calculation of wages / salaries / allowances and keeping payment slips of each p
erson in
cooperation with Finance Dept, analyze job performance and propose promotions of
individuals in consultation with departments concerned, staff records - working
hours
attendance discipline work performance.
Minimum wage payments, overtime, minimum age for employees and others
including: government rules and labour laws, welfare of employees, medical care,
social
accountability, working conditions, safety, environment, social responsibilities
etc. to
pass Factory Audits or SA 8000.
6. Technology and Development:
Vietnam is a labour intensive and capital scarce country, enterprises should
invest in appropriate technology. Even plentiful labour resources cannot substit
ute
state-of-the-art machinery to increase added value and backward integration. The
industry needs a strategy how to upgrade technological standards and use new
technology more effectively.
Fashion is the expression and preference of a specific target group s approach
towards life (Gini Stephens, 2001). So garment companies in Vietnam should inves
t to
have a design team, which have the task of accurately forecasting and recognizin
g future
trends and translating them into wearable fashion garments. Design teams obtain
their
inspirations from international Trend Shows , magazines, talking to sales staff in
shop
and closely follow what their target group wears in the street, office and at hom
e. They
then should produce sketches and propose fabrics and colors of what will hopeful
ly
be fashion and in demand next.
7. Finally, Garment companies in Vietnam should try to manage the value chain
via intranets, extranets and proprietary networks to reduce time of information
flows.
As Till Freyer in his research (2005) suggested: computer software are very much
part
of every days work. Special programs, developed for the specific tasks of each
department support and speed up the work process and control of deadlines. Most
work
procedures and control systems incl. communication (e-mail) can be supported by
computer programs. Information Department or Administration Department or
Technical Department can be responsible for the networks. The managers so can us
e
these networks to manage the information flow. In Thoi Bao Kinh Te (September 20
05)
the basic price for one IDSL internet line is about 300.000vnd (estimated is $20
), this is
considered very cheap for an internet line if the company use the line efficient
ly.
5.3.3 Limitations of the study
Even though the study shows the general picture of the value chain management
of garment companies in Vietnam and it shows a number of significant findings bu
t due
to time constraints it also has some limitations.
Firstly, the primary data from the study was just analyzed based on data of 177
garment companies in Vietnam with more than 50% of them are in the North of
Vietnam (Hanoi). But the secondary data shows that 74.0% of textile and garment
companies of Vietnam are located in The South, only 20.8 located in The North (F
igure
4-7, page 110) so the result may be not very reliable. Furthermore, the picture
about the
value chain and the margin of garment companies in Vietnam will be clearer if th
e
upstream linkage between textile firm and garment firm is analyzed so questionna
ires
with textile firms in Vietnam also need to be conducted.
Secondly, the topic and concepts of this research are almost new in Vietnam.
The researcher had to try her best to explain about these concepts. To be afraid
that the
questionnaire is too long for respondents to answer, especially with busy top ma
nagers,
company profile in questionnaire was limited.
Finally, even the comparisons between the value chain management of garment
companies in Vietnam and other competitors in foreign countries are mentioned in
the
notes of questionnaire but it may not easy to compare. The respondents also may
not
have enough information about competitors to compare and afraid that the image o
f
company would be affected, the rating score of respondents from garment companie
s,
especially for production activity may not very reliable.
5.3.4 Suggestions for further studies
This study provides a lot of facts and findings about the value chain
management of garment companies in Vietnam. The suggestions for further studies
are
as follows:
Firstly, it is needed to expand the respondents of the primary research into the
whole textile and garment industry in Vietnam. The research about the upstream
linkage between textile and garment firms should be conducted to analyze the who
le
value chain. Thanks to this the readers will have clearer picture about the valu
e chain
management of garment companies in Vietnam, what the garment companies in
Vietnam can and should do to improve their value chain management.
Secondly, next studies should test hypothesis to measure the relations among
activities in the value chain of garment companies and the affects of activities
to the
margin of the value chain by using more advanced technique to analyze the primar
y
data such as: Pearson Correlation, Correlation Coefficient, and effect size.
Thirdly, the next study should show how the total cost can be traced to key or
strategic activities in the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam and how
this
cost information used to manage the strategic value chain activities.
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Date:
To whom it may concern:
My name is Hoang Thi Bao Thoa, a lecture of Garment Technology and Fashion
Design Department, Hung Yen University of Technical Education. I m studying MBA in
international business at University of Thai Chamber of Commerce, Bangkok, Thail
and. I
am conducting a research on the topic entitled Value chain management of garment
companies in Vietnam to fulfill my MBA degree. The main purpose of my research is
to
describe the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam and how effectively are
activities in the value chain managed. I would be very grateful if I could have
a depth
interview with you about your opinion and work experiences in order to complete
the
research process. I will give you a call to discuss with you about appointment.
I promise
that your information will be treated confidentially and will only be used for a
cademic
purpose.
My contact number is 0912808119; email address: baothoasp1@gmail.com
Sincerely yours,
Hoang Thi Bao Thoa
MBA, Master of Business Administration
University of Thai Chamber of Commerce, Bangkok, Thailand
APPENDIX 2
TOPICS FOR FACE TO FACE INTERVIEWS
Topic title: Value chain management of garment companies in Vietnam
Profile of interviewees:
Name of interviewee: .
Position: .
Organization: .
Contents of the interview:
Introduce and explain the purpose of the interview.
Explain about value chain model and value chain management.
Interview
3.1 How do you evaluate the importance of primary activities and support activit
ies in
the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam, explain why?
No. Activities in the value chain
Least important .. Most important
1 2 3 4 5
1. Inbound logistics
2. Operations
3. Outbound logistics
4. Marketing
5 Sales
6. Service
7. Infrastructure
8. Human Resource Management
9. Technology Development
10. Procurement
3.2 What are strengths and weaknesses of garment companies in Vietnam?
3.3 Policy regime for garment trade in Vietnam.
3.4 Opportunities and challenges of garment companies after quota lifted.
3.5 The policies that Vietnamese government should implement to help garment
companies in Vietnam improving their value chain.
APPENDIX 3
LETTER FOR QUESTIONNAIRE SURVEY
Date:
To whom it may concern:
My name is Hoang Thi Bao Thoa; I m a lecture of Garment Technology and
Fashion Design Department, Hung Yen University of Technical Education. I m studyin
g
MBA in international business at University of Thai Chamber of Commerce, Bangkok
,
Thailand. I am conducting a research on the topic entitled Value chain management
of
garment companies in Vietnam to fulfill my MBA degree. The main purpose of my
research is to describe the value chain of garment companies in Vietnam and how
effectively are activities in the value chain managed. I would be very grateful
if you fill
in the questionnaire in order to complete the research process. There will be no
right or
wrong for the answers as they depend on each applicant s opinion and experience. Y
our
responses will be treated confidentially and this will only be used for academic
purpose.
Please answer all the questions and return it back as soon as possible. If you h
ave
any question please feel free to contact me at 0912808119 or email me at:
baothoasp1@gmail.com
Thank you for your participation in this questionnaire.
Sincerely yours,
Hoang Thi Bao Thoa
MBA, Master of Business Administration
University of Thai Chamber of Commerce, Bangkok, Thailand
APPENDIX 4
Code: .
QUESTIONNAIRES
Research title The value chain management of garment companies in Vietnam
Thank you very much for spending your time and effort to fill this form.
The questionnaire is divided into 3 parts:
(I)
Company profile
(II)
Primary activities management
(III)
Support activities management.
The value chain management means managing integrated information about
product flow from suppliers to end users to reduce defects and inventories, spee
d time
to market and improve customer satisfaction.
Part I: Company profile
1. Company s name: .
2.
Your position:
[ ] Director
[ ] Vice Director
[ ] Import export manager
[ ] Marketing manager
[ ] Production manager
3.
Number of year that the company operate in garment trade field (check one)
[ ]< 5 years [ ]5 10years [ ]>10 years
4.
What type of your company?
[ ] State-owned enterprise
[ ] Limited liability company
[ ] Joint stock company
[ ] Private company
[ ] FDI
5.
Where your company locates?
[ ] South of Vietnam [ ] North of VN
[ ] Central region of VN
6.
What was the main type of your orders in the year 2005?
[ ] FOB: 0 - 25% (CMT: 75 - 100%)
[ ] FOB: 25 50% (CMT: 50 - 75%)
[ ] FOB: 50 75% (CMT: 25 50%)
[ ] FOB: 75 100% (CMT: 0 25%)
7. What is your major market in this year?
[ ] Local market [ ] Oversea markets
The value chain includes 5 primary activities (Inbound logistics, operations,
outbound logistics, marketing and sales, service) and 4 support activities (Firm
infrastructure, human resource management, technology development and
procurement).
Inbound logistics: receiving, storing, handling, inventory control,
transportation scheduling of fabric and accessory
Operations: cutting, making, trimming, packaging, equipment maintenance,
and testing
Outbound logistics: warehousing, order fulfillment, transportation,
distribution management to bring products to customers
Marketing: channel selection, advertising, promotion, pricing
Sales: Selling, retail management, wholesale management
Service: customer support, complain handling
Infrastructure: general management, planning management, legal, finance,
accounting, public affairs, quality management, etc,.
Human Resource Management: recruiting, development (education),
retention and compensation of employees and managers
Technology Development: Research and Development, Process automation,
design, and redesign
Procurement: Procurement of raw materials, servicing, spare parts, building,
machine, etc,.
8. How do you evaluate the importance of following activities in your company s va
lue
chain?
No. Activities of value chain
Lest important .. Most important
1 2 3 4 5
1. Inbound logistics
2. Operations
3. Outbound logistics
4. Sales and marketing
5. Service
6. Infrastructure
7. Human Resource Management
8. Technology Development
9. Procurement
From question 9 to question 18, you can skip activities that not exit in your
company. In 5 point rating questions you can compare your company s performance
with your competitors if it is necessary.
Part II: Primary activities
9. How are inbound logistics activities managed in your company?
No. Activities
Not at all effective .. Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
1. Receiving fabric and accessory
2. Storing
3. Handling system
4. Inventory control
5. Transportation scheduling
6. Inbound logistics
10. What do you think about your production management?
No. Activities
Not at all effective .. Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
1. Production scheduling
2. Pattern making
3. Spreading and cutting
4. Garment assembly
5. Finishing and packaging
6. Machine maintenance
7. Production
11. How are outbound logistics activities done in your company in 2005?
No. Activities
Not at all effective .. Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
1. Warehousing
2. Order fulfillment
3. Transportation
4. Outbound logistics
12. What do you think about marketing management strategy of your company?
No. Activities
Not at all effective.. Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
1. Product management
2. Price management
3. Place management
4. Promotion management
5. Marketing mix management
13. How is your sales management?
No. Activities
Not at all effective .. Very efficient
1 2 3 4 5
1. Retail management
2. Whole sales management
3 Sales management
14. How is your service managed?
No. Activities
Not effective at all .. Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
1. Customer supports
2. Complain handling
3. Services management
Part III: Support activities
15. How is your technology development management?
No. Activities
Not at all effective .. Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
1. Design and redesign
2. Sewing system development
3. Cutting system management
4. Pressing and ironing systems
5. Other support equipment
6. Technology development
16. How is Human Resource Management in your company?
No. Activities
Not at all effective .. Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
1. Recruiting
2. Worker training
3. Staff training
4. Salary and compensation
5 Human Resource Management
17. How is your Infrastructure managed?
No. Activities
Not effective at all .. Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
1. General management
2. Planning management
3. Finance management
4. Quality management
5. Infrastructure management
18. How is procurement managed in your company?
No Activities
Not at all effective .. Very effective
1 2 3 4 5
1. Procurement of fabric and accessory
2. Procurement of servicing
3. Procurement of machines
4. Procurement of stationary
5. Procurement management
Thank you very much for your help!
MBA student Hoang Thi Bao Thoa
University of Thai Chamber of Commerce
APPENDIX 5
LIST OF 173 GARMENT COMPANIES IN VIETNAM
No. Name of company Product Address
1 1/5 Plastic & Garment Co
Ltd
Director: Doan Hau
T shirt 10/2 Thanh Cong St., Ward 17, Tan Binh
Dist., Ho Chi Minh City
Tel: (08) 8496048
Fax: (08) 8425912
2 19/5 Garment Company
Ministry of Police
Director: Do Xuan Van
Garment and
leather shoes
Hoang Cau St., Thanh xuan Dist., Hanoi
Tel: (04) 854392
Fax: (04) 8541368
3 20c Garment
enterprise(belongs to Nam
Hong Co)
Director: Nguyen Nam
Hong
Garment 20 Phan Dang Luu St., Vinh City, Nghe
An Province
Tel: (038) 849683
Fax: (038) 830959
4 21/10 Garment company
Trade name: 21/10 GARCO
Director: Nguyen Manh
Phong
Jackets; Shirts;
Sportswear;
Trousers; Work
wear
Group 2C, Dong Anh Town, Dong Anh
Dist., Hanoi
Tel: (04) 8833700
Fax: (04) 8832036
5 247 Garment company
Ministry of Defense
Trade name: COMPANY
247
Director: Pham Duy Tan
Jackets; suit;
Vest; Trousers
311 Truong Chinh St., Thanh Xuan Dist.,
Hanoi
Tel: (04) 8531153
Fax: (04) 8530154
Email: no247co@bdvn.vn.net
6 27/7 Binh Luc Garment
Company
Garment Binh Luc Town let, Binh Luc Dist., Ha
Nam Province
Tel: (0351) 860034
7 27/7 Company
Director: Nguyen Hoang
Yen
Export of garment
and embroidery
128-130 Ham Tu St., Ward 1, Dist.5, Ho
Chi Minh City
Tel: (08) 8458692
Fax: (08) 8350879
8 27/7 Garment Company
Ministry of Defense
Director: Vu Xuan Chac
Jackets; Trousers;
Underwear
Phu Tho Town, Phu Tho province
Tel: (0210) 820044
Fax: (0210) 820830
9 27/7 Garment Enterprise
Director: Vu Xuan Hoa
Jackets;
Sportswear
Hung Vuong Wad, Phu tho Town, Phu Tho
province
Tel: (0210) 820044
Fax: (0210) 820364
10 27/7 Quang Ninh Garment
Enterprise
Director: Tran Thi Suu
11 30/4 Garment Export Share
Corporation
Trade name: GEC304
Director: Bui Huu Nghia
12 32 Company
Trade name: ASECO
Director: Mai Duy Hien
13 389 Garment Company
Military Division 3
Director: Nguyen The Hung
14 An Giang Garment Export
Company
15 An Phuoc Garment
Embroidery Co Ltd
Trade name: APCO
Director: Nguyen Thi Dien
16 Bac Giang Garment
Company
Trade name: BAGARCO
Director: Nguyen Huu Phai
17 Bac Giang Import-Export
Company
Trade name: IMEXCO
BAC GIANG
Director: Tran Van Luy
18 Bac Ninh Garment Import-
Export Company
Director: Nguyen Xuan
Sanh
Vests
Jackets; Skiwear;
Sportswear;
Trousers; Polo
shirt; Children
wear
Garment;
Handbag;
Shoes
Jackets; Trousers;
Skiwear
Garment
Garment and
Embroidery
Jackets; coats;
Shirts; Skiwear;
Skirt
Woolen carpets,
garments
Jackets; Shirts;
Trousers;
Sportswear
Cao Xanh St., Ha Long City, Quang Ninh
province
Tel: (04) 825708
321 Ho Van Hue Industry Zone, Ward 9,
Phu Thuan Dist.,
Ho Chi Minh City
Tel: (08) 8443332 8446697
Fax: (08) 8442464
Email: gec304@tlnet.com.vn
170 Quang Trung St., Go Vap Dist., Ho
Chi Minh City
Tel: (08) 8940416 8941235
Fax: (08) 8940279
Email: congty32@hcm.vnn.vn
Le Duan St., Bac Son Ward, Kien An
Dist., Hai Phong City
Tel: (031) 876155
Fax: (031) 787212
Tran Hung Dao St., My Quy Ward, Long
Xuyen City, An Giang Province
Tel: (076) 834079 834958
Fax: (076) 824908 834915
Email: ag.garmex@hcm.vnn.vn
100/11 12 13 An Duong Vuong St.,
Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City
Tel: (08) 8331429 8350059
Fax: (08) 8350058
Email: anphuoc@hcm.vnn.vn
Website: www.anphuoc.com
Ke St., Bac Giang Town, Bac Giang
Province
Tel: (0240) 852156
Fax: (0240) 854655
Email: bagarco@vol.vnn.vn
2 Nguyen Thi Luu St., Tran Phu Ward,
Bac Giang Town,
Bac Giang Province
Tel: (0240) 854386 854225
Fax: (0240) 855879
Lieu Bao Comm., Tien Du Dist., Bac Ninh
Province
Tel: (024) 1837910
Fax: (024) 1838435
19 Bach Mai Export Garment
Enterprise
Trade name: BAMACO
Director: Nguyen Huu Hiep
Jackets; Trousers;
Shirts
20 Bao Phuong Company
Director: Nguyen Huu
Quach
Garment
21 Binh Minh Garment
Company
Director: Dang Ngoc
Chinh
Jackets; Trousers;
Sportswear;
Others
22 Binh Minh Garment
Jointstock Company
Trade name: BIGAMEX
Director: Doan Xuan Mai
T-shirt; Polo
shirt; Jogging
suit; Sportswear;
Baby clothes
23 Binh Thuan Garment Im-
Ex Company
Trade name: BTEXGA
Men shirt,
jackets, trouser
Director: Huynh Van Nghi
Member of VITAS
24 Cam Binh Textile
Garment Co
Trade name: BAGARCO
Director: Nguyen Trong
Tien
Garment;
Production of
sport shoes
25 Cam Pha Garment making
for Export Enterprise
Director: Dam Van Gioi
Garment
26 Chan Viet Co Ltd
Director: Le Thuy Doan
Trang
Knitwear; Kinds
of clothes
27 Chin Phong Garment
Company.
Director: Dai Minh Hoa
Producing and
trading in
garment products.
28 Chien Thang Garment
Company
Trade name: CHIGAMEX
Director: Doi Thi Thu
Thuy
Jackets; Pant;
Vest; Shirt;
Dresses; Shorts;
Sportswear; Dress
gloves;
536 Bach Mai St., Hanoi
Tel: (04) 624007
Unit: $ million
Industry Markets 1990 1995 2001 2002 2003
Textile +
garment
Whole of the world 212.480 310.670 341.360 355.070 395.360
Japan 12.843 24.743 23.942 22.137 24.520
USA 33.707 51.808 81.820 236.733 89.566
EU (15) 107.214 131.411 127.673 133.457 153.828
Total amount of above centres 153.764 207.962 233.435 392.327 267.914
Textile
Whole of the world 104.350 152.320 146.870 152.760 189.420
Japan 4.106 5.985 4.756 4.536 5.035
USA 6.730 10.441 15.429 17.002 18.289
EU (15) 50.370 57.227 46.671 47.091 52.534
Total amount of above centres 61.206 73.653 66.856 221.629 75.858
Garment
Whole of the world 108.130 158.350 194.490 202.310 225.940
Japan 8.737 18.758 19.186 17.601 19.485
USA 26.977 41.367 66.391 66.731 71.277
EU (15) 56.844 74.184 81.002 86.366 101.294
Total amount of above centres 92.558 134.309 166.579 170.698 192.056
Source: World Trade Statistics 2004 WTO.
APPENDIX 7
TEXTILE AND GARMENT EXPORT OF VIETNAM IN THE WORLD MARKET
Unit: Million vnd
Textile and garment export of Vietnam in the world market.
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
EU
Japan
United states
Others
EU 410 521 555 609 559 579 580 762
Japan 325 321 417 620 588 521 514 531
United states 12 26 34 49.5 44.6 951 1973 2474
Others 602 483 387.3 613 730.4 701 587 619
1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004
Source: World trade statistics, 2004 WTO
198
APPENDIX 8
GROWTH RATE OF TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY 1997-2004
Unit : Billion vnd
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004
GDP
GDP growth rate (%)
244.596
5,76%
256.272
4,77%
273.666
6,79%
292.535
6,89%
313.247
7,08%
336.242
7,34%
362.092
7,69%
Indutry output (IO)
IO Growth rate (%) 151.223
12,50%
168.749
11,59%
198.326
17,53%
227.342
14,63%
261.092
14,85%
305.080
16,85%
354.030
16,04%
Processing industry
(PI)
PI Growth rate (%)
120.666
12,08%
133.702
10.80%
158.098
18,25%
183.542
16,09%
213.697
16,43%
252.886
18,34%
293.619
16,11%
Textile and garment
(TG)
TG Growth rate (%)
13.033
12,48%
13.606
4,40%
16.089
18.25%
17.503
8,79%
20.520
17,24%
24.680
20,27%
29.124
18,01%
Ration
TG/GDP 5,33% 5,31% 5,88% 5,98% 6,55% 7,34% 8,04%
TG/IO 8,62% 8,06% 8,11% 7,70% 7,86% 8,09% 8,23%
TG/PI 10,80% 10,18% 10,18% 9,54% 9,60% 9,76% 9,92%
Source: GSO, 2004.
APPENDIX 9
GROWTH FORECAST OF VIETNAM S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY 2005 - 2010
No. Targets
Project 1
(Average level)
Project 2
(High level)
2005 2010 2005 2010
1 Production growth rate per year 3% 8% 12% 14%
2 Export growth rate per year 5% 5% 10% 10%
3 Export turnover ($ million) 4.650 6.000 4.800 7.700
4 Domestic turnover ($ million) 1.150 2.310 1420 3537
5 Total turnover ($ million) 5.800 8.310 6.220 11.237
Source: VINATAS, 2004
APPENDIX 10
GROWTH FORECAST OF VIETNAM S TEXTILE AND GARMENT 2006-2015
No Targets
Project 1
(Average level)
Project 2
(High level)
2006-2010 2011-2015 2006-2010 2011-2015
1 Production growth rate per year 16,60% 14,46% 16,60% 14,46%
2 Export growth rate per year 10,76% 10,20% 15,81% 8,45%
3 Export turnover ($ billion) 7-8 12-13 9-10 14-15
Source: VINATAS, 2004
APPENDIX 11
CONDITIONS TO REACH THE TARGETS OF VIETNAM S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY 2006 - 2
010
Population:
Labor force:
Law system:
Executive branch:
GDP:
GDP - Real growth rate:
GDP - per capita:
Inflation rate
(consumer prices):
Administrative divisions:
APPENDIX 14
COUNTRY S PROFILE