DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC CUTTING MACHINE

According to the operating process, the Cutting Machine can be classified into three types.

 Manual
o Hand scissors

 Semi- Automatic
o Straight knife
o Round Knife
o Band Knife
o Die Cutting Machine
o Notcher
o Drill Machine

 Automatic / Computerized
o Knife Cutting Machine
o Laser Cutting Machine
o Water Jet Cutting Machine
o Air jet Cutting Machine
o Ultrasonic Cutting Machine
o Plasma Torch cutting Machine
 STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

• Motor power drives the reciprocating blade

• Operator power drives the knife through the lay.

CUTTING MACHINE PARTS INVOLVED IN CUTTING

1. Knife/Blade
2. Sharpener
3. Motor
4. Fabric presser
5. Base plate
6. Moving handle
7. Transport handle

ADVANTAGES
 Comparatively cheap & and can be cut many plies at a time.
 Higher lay of height can be cut very easily.
 Round corners can be cut more precisely than even round knife.
 Production speed is very good.
 Garments components can be directly separated from fabric lay.

DISADVANTAGES
 High speed of the machine causes high risk of damage.
 Faulty knife could damage fabric layer.
 Motor weight creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces.
 Risk is high for physical damage of operator.
 Knife required to be replaced.
 ROUND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

 It contains a round but slightly octagonal type knife with sharp edge.
 The other main parts of this machine are base plate, electric motor, handle & knife
guard.
 Knife diameter varies from 6-20 cm.
 Manual grinder is used.
 Motor R.P.M. is 800-1600.It depends on machine.
 A handle for the cutter to direct the knife.
 Easy to handle & movement due to low weight.
 Knife is lubricating manually.
 Base plate gives support for fabric.
 Maximum 40% of the knife diameter
can be used for fabric lay.

ADVANTAGES
 Suitable for cutting single ply as well as multilayer (say 20-30layers).
 Easy to handle & operate.
 Suitable for small scale cutting.
 Suitable for gentle curve line cutting.
 To cut the larger part of the garments.
 With a same R.P.M its efficiency is 10 times greater than the straight knife.

DISADVANTAGES
 Very low R.P.M and knife height.
 Manual grinder is used.
 Low productivity since few number of lay can be cut.
 Difficult to cut small components & high curve line.
 Not suitable for large production.
 Lubrication is manually done.

USES

 It’s useful for gentle curve line cutting, big parts cutting, cutting out fabric block
from lay & small scale cutting. It’s normally use for small production.
 NOTCHER MACHINE

A knife notcher is an upright, cylindrical device which cuts the side of a block to a
predetermined distance. Both straight notches and V notches are available.An alternative
machine, the hot notcher, incorporates a heating element in order that the blade may
slightly scorch the fibers adjacent to the notch in order to prevent it fraying and
disappearing. This cannot be used with thermoplastic fibers or certain unlined garments.

ADVANTAGES

 It is a special type of cutting machine & use in special case.

 Useful to cut small notches on the fabric.
 It is most useful to make consistency in notching.

DISADVANTAGES

 Only use to make notch to the fabric.

 Thermoplastic fibers cannot be cut by this machine.
 The use of machine is limited.

USES

 To make the notch mark on the fabric

 BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

 Band Knife cutting machine is look like a wood cutter machine.

 Band knife is used for precision cutting small parts of garment.
 This band knife cutting machine has lower noise, less
temperature up, high power, less vibration and auto sharpening device.
 This machine worked as saw mill technique.
 Not possible to cut fabric directly from lay.
 Block pieces of fabric required in bundle from to
cut by this machine.
 Blade moving vertically through a flat working table.
 Machine remains stationery and fabric is moveable.
 It comprises a series of three or more pulleys, which
provide the continuous rotating motion of the knife.
 An endless knife is used here.
 Knife is usually narrower than on a straight knife.
 A large size of table is used to support the
fabric & for cutting.

ADVANTAGES

 Suitable for any types of line

 Very large productivity for limited product
 Such as collars, cuff, placket etc.
 Automatic grinder grind the knife instantly
 Air blower helps to reduce the fabric weight which increases smooth movement of
fabric.
 Possible to cut 900 angle of the lay.
 Intensity of accident is low.

DISADVANTAGES

 Not suitable for large component due to the length of the table.
 Work load is high as machine is stationary & fabric is movable.
 Running cost is higher, Fabric wastage is high. Required fix space.
 Not possible to cut fabric directly.
 DRILL CUTTING MACHINE

 The drill mounting includes a motor, a base plate with a hole to allow the drill to pass
through, and a spirit level to ensure that the base is horizontal and hence the drill
vertical.
 The momentum of drill is completed at 90 ̊angle in the fabric lay by the level of sprit.
 On many fabrics the drill is used cold and the hole remains visible until the sewing
operator comes to use it.
 For tightly woven fabric the hole is permanent for a long time.
 On looser weave fabrics, where the hole may close up, a hot drill is used, which will
slightly scorch or fuse the edges of the hole to make it permanent for a long time.
 A hypodermic (or dye spot) drill may also be used which leaves a small deposit of paint
on ply of fabric to find the mark place easily.
 All drill holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the garments.

ADVANTAGES

 This machine is needed to mark on the end of components of dresses specially for
setting pocket, dart & so on.
 It can make the hole permanently for a long duration.

DISADVANTAGES

 The use of machine is limited.

USES

 It is used to make hole on the fabric for button attaching &

to make reference mark for attaching different small
l components on the garments.
 WATER JET CUTTING MACHINE

A water jet cutter, also known as a waterjet, is a tool capable of slicing into metal or other
materials (such as granite) using a jet of water at high velocity and pressure, or a mixture of
water and an abrasive substance. The process is essentially the same as water erosion found in
nature but greatly accelerated and concentrated.

ADVANTAGES

Waterjet cutting has many applications, and there are many reasons why waterjet cutting is
preferable over other cutting methods. Listed below are several advantages, along with a brief
explanation. • In waterjet cutting, there is no heat generated.

 This is especially useful for cutting tool steel and other metals where excessive heat
may change the properties of the material.
 Unlike machining or grinding, waterjet cutting does not produce any dust or particles
that are harmful if inhaled.
 The kerf width in waterjet cutting is very small, and very little material is wasted.

DISADVANTAGES

 One of the main disadvantages of water jet cutting is that a limited number of materials
can be cut economically.
 While it is possible to cut tool steels, and other hard materials, the cutting rate has to
be greatly reduced, and the time to cut a part can be very long. Because of this, water
jet cutting can be very costly and outweigh the advantages.
 Another disadvantage is that very thick parts can not be cut with water jet cutting and
still hold dimensional accuracy.
 If the part is too thick, the jet may dissipate some, and cause it to cut on a diagonal, or
to have a wider cut at the bottom of the part than the top.
 It can also cause a ruff wave pattern on the cut surface.
 DIE CUTTING MACHINE

 Fast die change and setup times

 Driven pinch rollers
 In feed and out feed conveyers
 Moveable control console for easy operation.
 Language-selectable keypad with inch or millimeter readout.
 PLC controlled servomotor indexing
 Automatic or manual operation Adjustable

ADVANTAGES

 Very accurate and excellent for small components

 The greater the blade movement , the faster the blade cuts the fabric & the more
rapidly.
 The operate can be easily & push the machine.

USES

 Mainly used for mass production of slow change items.

 Dies having the exact shape of the garment pieces.
 Some dies are sued over a long period.
 COMPUTER-CONTROLLED CUTTING MACHINE

 This methods provides the most accurate possible cutting , at high speed
 A typical computer system has a table with a cutting surface consisting of nylon bristles
which support the fabric lays but are flexible enough to permit penetration and
movement of the knife blade which is supported only on the top.
 The bristles also allow the passage of air through the table to create a vacuum, reducing
the height of the lay and holding it in place .
 It is ideal for placing notches in a lay and has a depth adjustment guide to stop you
notching too deeply.
 It has a depth capacity of 200mm and selectable temperatures of 300, 400 or 500C.

ADVANTAGES

 Very active & fast cutting by computer controlled system

 Suitable for very large-scale production
 Speed of cutting can be controlled. Cutting defects are less than other
 Less labor cost
 No need of marker paper.

DISADVANTAGES

 Very expensive machine.

 Higher maintenance cost
 LASER CUTTING MACHINE

 Laser cutting processing depends on its precise processing, faster, simple operation,
high degree of automation has been widely used in the leather and textile garment
industry.
 Laser cutting machine is not only with low price, low consume, more over laser
processing doesn't have mechanical stress to the work piece, so the precision and
cutting speed of the cut products' result are very well.

ADVANTAGES

 Very High Speed Cutting

 Suitable for single ply cutting

DISADVANTAGES

 Not suitable for cutting multi layer of fabric

 Not suitable for synthetic fabric possibility of burning.
 RIB CUTTING MACHINE

These are specialized machines used to cut rib or rolls of strips from knitted tubular
fabrics. Knit garment industry uses this machine widely.

PLASMA TORCH CUTTING MACHINE

Plazma cutting was originally developed to satisfy our demand for high quality cutting. It
is used for cutting stainless steel and aluminum. But it can also be used to cut textile
material. In this system, fabrics are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is made by
Argon gas.
 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

NEW DELHI

SEWN PRODUCTS MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENTS

CUTTING MACHINERY

SUBMITTED TO- SUBMITTED BY-

YOGINDER SIR SHREYASI SAXENA

BFT- 4