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A P U B L I C A T I O N F R O M N I L O R N W O R L D W I D E N o .

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Fairness in Fashion v 5 Meals in N.Y.C v


Product Development v Just Can't Get Enough of Denim v
Tactile Textures v Design Classic: Chanel No. 5
16 10

32

40 24 25

COVER ILLUSTRATION: Adam Greasley. PAPER: Cover: Art Silk 250 gsm. Body: Scandia 2000 White 170 gsm. Printed at Responstryck AB, Borås, Sweden.
�ontent� #1 / 2013
4 24
Welcome Focus: Tactile Textures
Clean lines with exciting
6 surfaces made to be stroked.

Fairness
in Fashion 25
Chronicle by Anna Blom. Product Development
We present our latest collection.
10
Oki Sato 32
Oki Sato, a young man with endless curiosity 5 Meals in N.Y.C
and a passion for the experimental.

34
14 The Perfect Shirt
Design Classic Wasn't Made In a Day...
Chanel No. 5. Oscar of Sweden's premium collection
is all about the art of materials.
16
Simonsland 36
–The Creative Factory Indigo – The Blue Gold
The Textile Fashion Center and the Simonsland We take a look at the legendary pigment.
area are set to turn Borås into Scandinavia’s leading
arena for fashion, textiles and design.
40
22 Just Can't Get
We Like... Enough of Denim
News, trends and inspiration The familiar blue fabric has
from the world of design. spread far beyond clothing.

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CHRONICLE

�airness
in Fashio�
T
he Maasai warrior William Kikanae does organisation in Nairobi and a fashion label: a
not like New York. He misses the great line of shoes and bags made in Kenya by Maasai
outdoors. Even so, he is standing in front women.
of me in a bustling sea of champagne-swil- It isn’t the first time that African culture has
ling fashionistas, inside a no-expenses- provided a source of inspiration for the fashion
spared, architect-designed fashion boutique in world: famous designers like Diane von Fursten-
Lower Manhattan. Through the huge windows berg, Yves Saint Laurent and Dries Van Noten
overlooking Gansevoort Street, the evening are just some of the designers who have taken
sun casts golden rays across his face. He stares inspiration from the continents rich colours
dreamily at the street, like an animal in a cage. and patterns. Now, it is time for the western
Around his neck and wrists, colourful rows of world to give something back to the country
ANNA BLOM bead necklaces and bracelets sparkle in red, blue, and, more precisely, the Maasai people, one of
Anna is a freelance gold and green. He is wearing a shukan, a layer the most threatened in the world. In Kikanae’s
journalist who writes of fabric which covers his body. The fabric shines view, women are the most important people in
about fashion, trends blood red against the white walls of the bouti- the family. It is women who look after the home
and beauty. que. His arms are full of scars – the burn marks and care for the children. They are also the most
www.annablom.se from the ritual a Maasai warrior has to undergo, vulnerable. Strongly subordinate to men, most
a preparation for the pain and spilling of blood Maasai women have never earned a living. In
which awaits him. Killing a lion with a spear and most Maasai tribes, female circumcision (FGM)
sword is also part of the test a warrior has to face. is a common practice, frequently associated with
This is something which Kikanae has also done. early marriage and the end of a girl’s education.
But he is not in New York to display the proof This is something which Kikanae is committed
of his coming-of-age. He is here in the service of to changing.
fashion - and, in particular, of Maasai women. – When I was young, I wanted to find ways to
So what is a Maasai warrior doing at the grand support women. They are the most important
opening of a fashion boutique? It is the Spanish people in the family, says William Kikanae.
shoe and bag brand, Pikolinos, which is celebra- The fact that the fashion industry would be-
ting the opening of its new pop-up store in New come one way of providing a better life for more
York – a two-storey boutique built from sustai- than 1,600 Maasai women in south-west Kenya
nable wood and materials. William Kikanae is was perhaps not what William Kikanae had en-
here in his capacity as one of the driving forces visaged when he started working with an NGO
behind a project between a non-government in Nairobi. For the past four years, he has been

6
CHRONICLE

»It isn’t the first time that the driving force behind a partnership between
Pikolinos and a non-government organisation
called ADCAM, in which Maasai women use

African culture has provi- their knowledge of traditional crafts and beaded
embroidery. The leather is sent from Spain to the
Maasai women, who hand-embroider pieces of

ded a source of inspiration leather with colourful beads which are used on
the company’s sandals and bags. Once embroi-
dered, the leather is transported back to Spain

for the fashion world« for final production. The result is a boho-chic
collection of bags and leather sandals in different
models which are sold worldwide by Pikolinos.
All profits go to development projects in the
© Alan Barry

ABOVE In April this year, the Spanish Masai Mara National Reserve.
shoe and bag brand Pikolinos The fashion partnership is a clear success story.
opened a pop-up store in New York, Today, William Kikanae’s dream has become a
selling several different collections reality – through a collection of hand-embroi-
of shoes featuring hand-embroidery dered leather accessories which have changed
by Maasai women in Kenya. The plan the lives of thousands of women in Kenya and
is for the boutique to stay open for Tanzania. For the first time ever, Maasai women
three months, after which it’s a case are earning wages which will let them improve
of wait and see. the quality of life for the whole community,
at the same time as they remain true to their
RIGHT: It girl Olivia Palermo at the traditions and lifestyle. The project provides a
grand opening of the new Pikolinos stable source of income which gives them access
boutique. She is the ambassador for to food and medicine, as well as to education
the Maasai project, as well as the for the youngest members of their tribes. The
face of a campaign advertising the profits have also financed a school in the Masai
fourth line of the project. In October Mara National Reserve. In one article, a Maasai
last year, during the campaign photo woman tells how her wages have allowed her
shoot, she visited Kenya and the Maa- to send her daughter to university. At the same
sai women involved in the project. time, the partnership is keeping a dying culture

7
CHRONICLE

»Fashion is avant-garde,

© Pamela Peeters
just like a movie. You set
a tone, you have the oppor-
tunity to change people.«
Pamela Peeters

and tradition alive. The partnership has also


proved a win-win in other respects: when a
company puts natural resources and the people
behind the objects first, they establish a relations-
hip with shoppers which goes far beyond loyalty
clubs and points for the last T-shirt you bought.
Today’s loyalty comes from the heart.
After It girl Olivia Palermo, the project ambas-
sador, and Kikanae finished their talks to the
now champagne-saturated audience, I headed
for the exit. On the way out, I ran into another
passionate soul – the sustainability strategist Pa-
mela Peeters, who originally came from Belgium.
Peeters has been working with sustainability
issues for 15 years, and has visited Pikolinos’
production set-up in Kenya. She sees this as the
perfect example of the successful fashion labels
Maasai chief William Kikanae with his son in Kenya. of the future:
– Fashion is avant-garde, just like a movie. You
set a tone, you have the opportunity to change
people. Most of them buy an image. But sustai-
nability is not an image, it is a lifestyle. Stella
McCartney did it, and I have a couple of pairs of
her ”vegan shoes”. Pikolinos is another trend-
setter. You are forced to consider your whole
lifestyle and lifecycle analysis, the people who
plant the cotton, who harvest it, who make the
products. If everyone is shown respect, consu-
mers will feel better, says Pamela Peeters.
A simple way to decide whether a fashion
label is fair or not is not to look just for the
traditional fairness labelling and obvious logos.
In Pamela Peeters view, the body’s intelligence
is a measure of which fashion labels have fully
embraced today’s awareness. It is enough to
wear their collections.
– The skin is the largest organ of the body, it
can feel when something is genuine.
Now I understand what she means. A while
Read more: ago, I bought my first pair of Pikolinos shoes,
www.pikolinos.com/maasai and I don’t just feel that I look good in them.
www.facebook.com/Pikolinos.Shoes They are also the most comfortable sandals I
www.twitter.com/MaasaiProject own. In addition, the overall experience has
www.sustainablestyles.com another silver lining: my new shoes contribute,
www.pamelapeeters.tumblr.com even slightly, to making the world a better place.
ec.europa.eu/europe2020/index_en.htm Fairness is trendy!

8
Steingroup . 7518 C
PORTRAIT: OKI SATO

Oki Sato is the


driving force
behind the Nendo
design collective,
and has the ability
to create designs
which, at times,
confuse the eye.

oki sato
Playfu�
�inimali�
T
Oki Sato has been called the he Nendo design collective has unob-
trusively established itself on the world
most brilliant designer of the design map, and is now one of the most
exciting players in the field.
21st Century, and his designs Behind the Nendo designs studio stands
the founder and chief designer, Oki Sato, a young
have been acclaimed for their man with endless curiosity and a passion for the ex-
perimental.
quiet sense of humour and Born in Toronto in 1977, he spent a large part of his
youth in Tokyo, where he graduated with a degree in
their constant interest in architecture.
In 2002, he and his colleague Akihiro Ito founded
telling a story. Sato tests the the Nendo design studio. Nendo is the Japanese
word for children’s modelling clay.
limits of materials and proces- The idea behind Nendo was born when Sato, as a
newly-qualified architect, visited the Milan furniture
ses in his aspiration to add fair. Back then, ten years ago, the work of architects,
interior decorators and designers was still strictly
functionality with unexpected separate in Japan. During the visit, Sat and his col-
league noticed that, outside Japan, designers enjoyed
beauty to everyday settings. a great deal more freedom and were allowed to cross
into other areas. That was precisely how they wanted
WORDS: Henrik Lindén
to work, and once back in Tokyo, the friends esta-
blished an interdisciplinary design and architectural
group.

10
PORTRAIT: OKI SATO

» With a well thought-out born at the Nendo studio is that they manage to

approach to each indivi- balance the intangible with the concrete. What the
eye sees is warm minimalism, often a balancing act
Splinter is a collection of
furniture with components
dual project, Nendo ensu- between sculpture and object, folly and function. that look like they're peeled

res that the design is uni- The objects can also be understood on several dif-
ferent levels. The team has a proven skill in wea-
away from wooden stems.
"We splintered each piece
que and exciting, and that ving stories into its designs and commenting on of wood as though peeling
social and economic issues. An excellent example
the product makes the of this is The Cabbage Chair.
it away," says Nendo. "We
kept larger pieces of wood
user smile. « Nendo was commissioned by the fashion desig- at their original thickness to
ner, Issey Miyake, to produce furniture made from provide strength where ne-
To western eyes, traditional Japanese design may pleated paper, a waste product of the manufacture cessary, and used thin pieces
appears minimalistic, formal and dispassionately of pleated fabrics. of wood that had splintered
simple. Nendo’s products managed to combine these The result was a role of paper which can be cut off for more delicate parts."
expressions with a sense of humour, playfulness and open and unfolded into a comfortable chair. The
warmth. Nendo’s concept is to ensure that the pro- chair has no frame, no screws or nails. The Splinter range includes
ducts it designs is to give people a “!” moment in the Sato thinks the chair resembles a cabbage, which a chair, coat stand, side
middle of their everyday lives. is how it got its name. The idea is that the chair is table and two mirrors. It is
These details are often quite obvious, but, even so, delivered as a roll and the end-user completes the produced by Conde House,
the design team manages to avoid the banal or chil- setting-up process. a manufacturer based in
dish. It is a typical example of a recurring Nendo the- Japan's Asahikawa wooden
With a well thought-out approach to each indivi- me – products which are completed when they are furniture region.
dual project, Nendo ensures that the design is unique used.
and exciting, and that the product makes the user Oki Sato adopts methods which are not actually
smile. Another distinguishing mark of the projects suited for the materials he is using.

11
PORTRAIT: OKI SATO

This thoughtful, capricious and ground-breaking


approach produces designs which are more than the
sum of their parts.
It is easy to be deceived by the simple and playful
appearance of the products, and forget the incredibly
long and complicated process behind them.
During its first decade, the design studio has
worked with an impressive number of products and
interiors, taken part in exhibitions and brought home
design awards. The latest is the prestigious "Designer
of the Year" awarded by Wallpaper magazine.
Since it was launched ten years ago, Oki Sato’s
company has produced a steady stream of design ob-
jects, and its owner has achieved celebrity status in 3
the industry.
The company has been involved in whole string
of successful collaborations, with partners including
Camper, Cappellini, Swedese, De Padova and Fosca-
rini. 1. Coca Cola’s glass bottles inspired Nendo’s Bottleware collection. The collec-
Today, Nendo employs 30 staff in its studio in To- tion includes bowls and plates with a distinctive low shape, as if they used to be
kyo. Since 2005, the company has also had an office the lower part of a glass bottle. ”We were fascinated by the special green shade
in Milan. ● of the glass, called Georgia Green, and by the tiny air bubbles and distortions
which are a feature of recycled glass. So we decided to create a simple shape
which highlights these characteristics”, as Nendo put it in a press release.

2. Splinter side table.

3. Nendo has designed a glass collection called ”Harcourt Ice” on behalf of


Baccarat. The idea was to design an ice-like edge, then “melt” it. The edge was
dipped in an acid which is normally only used in the last stages of the polishing
process.

12
PORTRAIT: OKI SATO

”Cape” creates the illusion of a cape draped over a


frame. This subtle twist makes the chair stand out while
it achieves a natural and simple look.
The extremely thin dimensions and low weight of the
complex CAPE chair is the result of a collaboration bet-
ween the furniture company, Offecct, and SSAB aimed
at developing new steel materials.
DESIGN CLASSIC

�hanel No 5
When Chanel No 5 hit the shop shelves, it was something of
a revolution in the perfume industry. A modern classic,
elegantly packaged to appeal to the discerning user.

In the early part of the 20th Century, the phe- gold printing. Mademoiselle Chanel was well aware
nomenon of perfumes created by fashion companies of the importance of packaging to the overall expe-
was not as widespread as it is today. The idea of cre- rience. The coolly-intelligent fashion icon, with her
ating a perfume came to clothes designer Gabrielle sure sense of style, went completely against contem-
"Coco" Chanel when she met the famous Russian- porary taste and designed a simple bottle in a white
French perfumer, Ernest Beaux. At Coco’s request, box with black edges. The uncluttered label reflects
Beaux created two numbered series of Coco’s vision of simple and functional
proposed scents. garments. Initially, consumers found
After trying them all carefully, Coco it hard to accept the daring design, but
decided on number five in the first se- it wasn’t long before Chanel No. 5 was
ries. This type of perfume was the first a clear success. And you do not alter a
with a completely synthetic base, winning concept – the product and
which made the scent more inten- packaging have hardly changed
sive and long-lasting. The scent is since they were first created. The
orthodox, with top notes of jas- shape of the bottle has changed
mine, and heart notes of rose and gradually over the years, and
ylang-ylang, and base notes of today it is slightly less flamboy-
ambergris and patchouli. ant. Initially, the bottle was made
You could say that, compared from crystal, but this was swit-
with its contemporaries, it was ched to glass to improve durabi-
a unisex perfume, only just ba- lity during transport. The bottle
lancing flowery notes with the has always been transparent so
more muted musk. Despite her that the perfume is visible.
no-nonsense image, Coco was a Now Chanel is once again
bit superstitious. The story is that bucking the trend. For the first
she justified her choice by saying: time, a man represents Chanel
– I am unveiling my collection on the fifth day of the No. 5 in advertising. And it is none other than the
fifth month of the year, so we leave the name of the actor Brad Pitt who has become the face of the iconic
perfume as it is, it is lucky. perfume.
When Chanel No 5 was launched, it stood out from The company’s marketing was given an extra boost
the crowd through its clean, uncluttered design. In as early as 1953, when Marilyn Monroe was asked
the 1920s, perfume bottles were usually richly de- what she wore while sleeping. The answer? –Two
corated, with elegant ornamentation, curlicues and drops of Chanel No. 5.

14
15
Part of Life.
SIMONSLAND – THE CREATIVE FACTORY

SIMONSLAND–
the creative
factory
WORDS: Anna Vörös Lindén
PHOTOS: Anna Sigge and Sandra Kucher

THE CREATIVE
FACTORY

16
SIMONSLAND – THE CREATIVE FACTORY

LEFT:
Impressively high ceilings and
fantastic natural lighting give ideal
conditions for a pleasant and creative
working environment.

BOTTOM LEFT:
The façade of one of the buildings
has been reclad with perforated steel
plates. The pattern is taken from
the pattern cards used with the old
looms. The plates have been allowed
to rust to achieve natural protection
and a dark reddish-brown colour.
At night, hundreds of halogen bulbs
are switched on behind the plates.

BELOW:
A building in transformation.

From crisis to creativity, profitability and a firm


belief in the future. The Textile Fashion Center
and the Simonsland area are set to turn Borås
into Scandinavia’s leading arena for fashion,
textiles and design. This time, the small town in
the west of Sweden is determined to maintain
its position on the textiles world map.
– Borås and the Sjuhärad area is a creating a network and a positive business
region where textiles have become part of climate to promote growth in the textile in-
the local DNA, and this is an incredible dustry in the Sjuhärad area.
strength in the current development of the – The timing was perfect. The launch of
Textile Fashion Center and of Borås itself”, Marketplace Borås resulted in representati-
according to Nanette Espinasse, Opera- ves from the municipality, higher education
tions Manager for Marketplace Borås. The and the business sector forming a triple he-
Marketplace Borås Cooperative Associa- lix partnership. At the same time, exciting
tion was formed in 2008, with the aim of ideas were emerging about what could be

17
SIMONSLAND – THE CREATIVE FACTORY

LEFT:
The Textile Fashion Center will be
classed as a ”Green Building”, with
solar cells on the roof and ventila-
tion and lighting which only switch
on when someone is present.

RIGHT:
No attempt has been made to
hide electrical cables and ventila-
tion ducts – they have been left
exposed to emphasise the industrial
atmosphere.

»Just look at the amount


of space – five metres
from floor to ceiling,
with light streaming in
through the huge win-
dows. This will be a fan-
tastic place to work.«

done with Simonsland, a former industrial


area in the centre of the town.
A few years down the line, the Textile
Fashion Center at Simonsland is about to
become the new home of both Marketplace
Borås, a large number of businesses, the
Swedish School of Textiles and the Textile
Museum. On 1 August 2013, the Textile Fa-
shion Center will be ready to welcome its
first tenants. The fact that, at present, it is
still just a noisy construction site does no-
thing to dampen Nanette Espinasse’s ent-
husiasm.
– Just look at the amount of space – five
metres from floor to ceiling, with light strea-
ming in through the huge windows. This
will be a fantastic place to work.”
The Textile Fashion Center is situated in
the former Svenskt Konstsilke factory. In
the past, the company was a subsidiary of
Borås Wäfveri, and the two were important
symbols of the growth and success of Borås.
Textiles have been the main business of the
area for several hundred years. At its peak
in the 20th Century, seven out of ten wor-
kers in Borås were employed in the textile
and ready-made clothing industry, inclu-
ding by the famous companies, Algots and
Eiser. The area was badly affected by the

18
SIMONSLAND – THE CREATIVE FACTORY

LEFT:
The concrete cutters are kept busy.

BOTTOM LEFT: Nanette Espinasse, Ope-


rations Manager for Marketplace Borås.

BELOW: The transformation started with


extensive decontamination of construction
materials and polluted soil.

crisis in the Swedish textile and ready-ma- Tricot - the most rapidly-growing fashion development of Simonsland. This has invol-
de clothing industry in the 1970s, with com- chain in the Nordic region during the first ved 37,000 square metres which, eventually,
panies filing for bankruptcy and factories decade of the 21st Century. will be expanded to 60,000 square metres of
closing down. Large companies were taken Over the past few decades, the Swedish useable space. The former Svenskt Konstsilke
over or moved their production abroad. School of Textiles has become a national factory was originally built in the functional
The textile industry in Borås was, howe- centre for textile and design. It trains desig- style of the 1930s, with several extensions ad-
ver, so vibrant that it never quite disappea- ners, textile engineers and economists in an ded later.
red. Instead, it reinvented itself. Logistics environment the like of which can be found – We pretty much gutted the building, and
companies were set up and the number of nowhere else in the world. At an interna- removed everything other than the stairca-
mail-order companies increased. Giants tional level, it is recognised for innovative se. The whole building then underwent a
such as Ellos and Halens turned Borås into research and new technology, including thorough cleaning process. Outside, we wan-
the largest mail-order centre in the Nordic smart textiles. ted to recreate the 1930s facades and source
region, and one of the largest in Europe. – Today, Borås offers expertise in the old-style windows, says Hanna Lassing,
This is also one of the reasons why Borås, whole textiles field, from the very first pen- Kanico’s Project Manager, an engineering
for its size, has an exceptionally high num- cil stroke to the point at which the finished graduate from Chalmers University of Tech-
ber of advertising agencies, photographers product reaches consumers. You won’t find nology in nearby Gothenburg. Giving us a
and hairdressers. this anywhere else in the world, says Na- guided tour, she points out examples of how
A large number of Swedish agencies and nette Espinasse. the architects have used 1930s and 1940s co-
ready-made clothing business chains have She is not alone in believing that. In au- lour charts on the centre’s contrast walls. The
head offices in Borås, and this is one of the tumn 2012, members of Marketplace Borås most important thing is to ensure that visitors
reasons why the region has a higher percen- listened to a talk by David Jones, a British really can see and feel that they are in an old
tage of foreign trade than Hong Kong. All business developer with more than 50 industrial building.
areas of the textile industry are represen- years’ experience of the fashion industry. – We are trying to create a raw environ-
ted here, including home textiles, fashion, – David Jones told us not to be shy but ment with a lot of strong materials like con-
chains, sports clothes, work clothes, inte- to tell the world about the Textile Fashion crete and steel showing. Inside, the walls have
rior, design and various types of innovative Center. He believes that Borås is something simply been cleaned and painted white. It is
textiles. Brands include Oscar Jacobson, totally unique, says Nanette Espinasse. the people and operations in the building who
Swegmarks, Svea, Didriksons 1913, Craft, The property company, Kanico, invested should be seen and add colour.
Fristads, Segers, Blåkläder, Bolon and Gina SEK 0.5 billion in the first stage of the re- Like other towns with a strong textiles in-

19
SIMONSLAND – THE CREATIVE FACTORY

A centre where the business


sector, students and the
community can meet and
make things happen.

dustry, Borås was dependent on a water ral stone will lead visitors to the front door. Fashion Gallery is aimed at attracting end-
source. The River Viskan can be seen from Future tenants at the Textile Fashion Center consumers to the textile cluster.
several places at the Textile Fashion Center, will include the Swedish School of Textiles, Marketplace Borås’ core values are colla-
even through glazed holes in the floor in which will occupy rooms on all four floors boration, creativity and growth. The heart
some places, since it partly flows underne- of the building, and the Textile Museum of the cooperative association is its mem-
ath the building. which will be located on two floors. Market- bers who, in spring 2013, totalled over 140
– We will build several stages and brid- place Borås will also take up several floors. – double the figure of a year ago.
ges across the River Viskan. The restaurant – This is where our events facility, the – Most of the member companies are lo-
on the ground floor will have tables both in- Arena, will be located, says Operations Ma- cal to the area or based in Sweden, but some
doors, and outside along the riverfront, says nager Nanette Espinasse, and points to an foreign textile companies have also found
Hanna Lassing. area covered in planks of wood and other their way here, including an organic cotton
The Textile Fashion Center will be classed construction material. producer from Egypt.
as a ”Green Building”, with solar cells on – It will feature a catwalk for fashion Membership of Marketplace Borås me-
the roof and ventilation and lighting which shows, and will be able to accommodate ex- ans that many members who, in fact, are in
only switch on when someone is present. A hibitions and dinners. competition with each other, can focus on
100 metre long and 12 metre wide “carpet” Marketplace Borås already organises se- working in partnership instead.
made from granite and other types of natu- veral recurring events, such as the Fashion- – I see this as a sign that we are moving
DAYS and the national Show Up Fashion towards a new corporate culture, with grea-
Award contest, which is aimed at new ter transparency and fewer walls. I really
companies and promising designers. The enjoy being part of a process which will ul-
Textile Fashion Center will also include an timately lead to greater openness.
office hotel for fashion and design entrepre- At the Textile Fashion Center, the past
neurs. Nanette Espinasse is excited about and present combine to create the future.
the studios and shops in the Fashion Gal- Nanette Espinasse feels that, at present, it
lery, which is another example of how Mar- is impossible to predict all the synergies of
ketplace wants to integrate business and the project.
education. – The amazingly wide selection of play-
– The Fashion Gallery will act as a mar- ers will make the Textile Fashion Center
ket hall for fashion, design and accessories an incredibly strong platform. No textile
from around 20 brands, including Billy and company will be able to say that they were
I. Hopefully, it will help companies increase forced to move elsewhere to find the right
their profits while, at the same time, we expertise. Everything will be available right
cater to fashion-conscious customers. The here in Borås. ●

20
RIDING WITH STYLE

eco . fair . social

21
WE LIKE...

Paul Smith + Leica


The Paul Smith for Leica collaboration brings together the technical
excellence that is synonymous with Leica and the vivid visual appeal of
Paul’s designs. This limited edition of the X2 has a bright orange top
plate and an engraved light bulb image, hand drawn by Paul, reflecting
the unusual pop-up flash on the top of the camera. The main body of
the camera is wrapped in lovely racing green cowhide leather and the
bottom plate of the camera is in contrasting vivid yellow.

2 3

Simplicity Watch Ou�


According to the new design company, After- From chic classics to innovative time pieces, here are some of our
room, their Chair #1 pays homage to Bauhaus favourite new watches.
and functionalism. 1. Form and function with industrial influences from Melbourne-
Although it has been reduced to the absolute based AÃRK Collective. www.aarkcollective.com
essentials, it is both aesthetically pleasing and 2. GANT RUGGER L.a.s is dedicated to the American fashion
functional. www.afterroom.se editor Lawrence A. Schlossman. The watch is available in three
different colours: orange, brown and navy. www.gant.com
3. No.1 from TID Watches, designed by Form Us With Love.
www.tidwatches.com

Organised & Tidy


Bring order to your life with these
new containers from House Doctor.
Exciting combination of metal and
canvas. www.housedoctor.com

22
WE LIKE...

Font Factory
Productive font manufacturer House
Industries has conquered the world
with its unmistakable aesthetics. These
handmade wooden blocks were inspired

Less is more
by the original House Industries factory
logo, and feature a selection of letters,
numbers, and symbols from the famous Foldable kraft paper bag. Can be used
typeface foundry’s font collections. So- for storage, as a basket, and can carry
mething which everyone, young and old, bread and eggs. www.merci-merci.com
will enjoy. www.houseind.com

Foodie
Cool Parrot Garden
Even though Kay Bojesen’s world-famous wooden is the growing kit for food lovers, chefs and
figurines aren’t exactly toys, the reintroduction gardeners alike. The kits feature a stylish
of new animals to Bojesen’s well-known “animal rectangular tin planter, nicely packaged with
circus” always brings out the inner child in design a kraft board wrap. Three kits are available:
lovers. Say hello to The Puffin. The bird known in “Basil-o-holic” with Sweet, Lemon and Siam
Danish as the “sea parrot” because of its colourful Basils; “XXX Pepper”. The kits are complete
bill may be Kay Bojesen’s most popular “forgot- with coco fiber wafers, seeds and instructions.
ten” design, which he brought to life in 1954 in Once started, all the plants can be transplan-
collaboration with scenographer Svend Johansen. ted to patio containers or the garden to fully
www.rosendahl.com mature.

23
FOCUS: TEXTURES

1. Collect 2012 is a
distinctive little cabinet
for your favourite things. It
has a fish scale patterned
leather front.
www.a2designers.se

2. Raw Edges' TEX is their


2 second project for the ce-
ramics company, Mutina.
It is a rich, multi-coloured
tile collection inspired by
the textures of textiles.
The tiles are rhomboidal
in shape, acting as a
simplified enlargement
of a basic knitted stitch
which aligns to create the
"fabric". www.mutina.it

3. Havet is a pinewood
1 3 cabinet. The surface treat-
ment resembles a stormy
ocean at night. The pat-

Tactile
tern is chiselled by hand
using an angle grinder.
Each cabinet created will

textures
be unique.
www.snickeriet.com

4. Doodle Sofa by
Clean lines with exciting Front for Moroso.
www.moroso.it
surfaces made to be stroked.
5. Handmade white
porcelain bracelet. This
bangle is unglazed,
leaving a soft satin matte
finish. www.etsy.com

6. The Lyngby vase – a


true classic relaunched.
Available from www.stil-
leben.dk and other quality
suppliers.

6
24
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

�ilorn Product
Developmen�
On the following pages, we will present our latest collections.
Our aim is to provide our customers with inspiration and ideas
on how they can take their labels and branding to a new level.
At the same time as we are looking for new materials and
production techniques, we are also fine-tuning the interaction
between design, production and logistics.

25
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

01.
CLOUDBERRY
The target group is working women who are well
e­ ducated, hold responsible jobs and have an active social
life. They care about their well-being and have money
to spend on themselves. These women p ­ refer high-end
fashion, classic clothing with a unique touch.

INSPIRATION
The inspiration is classic luxury with a modern touch,
simply classic with a twist. The concept has clean l­ ines
with creative details for a unique touch. Timeless r­ omance
with soft materials and colours work together with slightly
edgy details, such as oxidized metal and copper foil.

26
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

02.
Ashcroft
Ashcroft is a casual (rebel) brand.
Trendy Jeans and cool t-shirts mixed with
canvas and chinos. ”The Ashcroft man”
values his career and is a little egocentric.
Exclusive and trendy. Slightly retro,
authentic f­ eeling, with attractive details
and high quality. Early adopters but – at
the same time – value the old and genuine.
Independence is a strong ingredient. To be
true to yourself and have the confidence to
do what­ever you believe in.

INSPIRATION
Los Angeles ”City of Angels”, California –
a place of hopes and dreams. The beautiful
weather contrasting with superficiality.
Leading world hub for business, interna-
tional trade, entertainment, culture, media
and fashion. Inspiration is also drawn from
concerts and big city holidays.

27
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

03.
Pietro Boselli has a solid pedigree, The design team seeks inspiration from
and offers elegant and sophisticated classical men’s fashion, and then contribu-
products. tes innovative cut, patterns and materials.

PIETRO BOSELLI The brand stands for timelessness, qua-


lity and excellent craftsmanship. Despite
INSPIRATION
Each collection is inspired by a place, a fee-

MEN'S WEAR the apparently strict style, the garments


have often unexpected and creative
ling. The place may be a library in Milan or
a street in London, or perhaps a restaurant
detailing. The wearer will be entertained in New York’s East Village.
by a bright neon lining, jokey labels or
buttons in a totally contrasting idiom.

28
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

04.
COWCOW
The girl next door… she dresses for
comfort, but doesn’t want to blend into the
crowd. She knows just what suits her and
has very strong views on what she wants
to wear. It must be the right style and the
right colours. Even when things don’t seem
to match, a lot of thought goes into the look.
Clothes are carefully selected to create just
the right level of random style. Sheer and
tough fabrics and materials are liberally
mixed to create a more exciting look. The
CowCow girl spends a lot of time searching
for vintage pearls to accessorize her up-to-
date wardrobe.

INSPIRATION
Country music, southern USA, heat, ani-
mals and farmland.... the dust stirs, the sun
beats down. Lemonade on the front porch,
rough plaid shirts, worn jeans and rawhide
– natural fabrics and materials, where the
keyword is durability.

29
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

04.
PEBBLE CREEK

Pebble Creek is a range of mo- The garments are made to be used


dern, classically-designed outerwear, every day. A well-thought out simpli-
reliably functional and perfect for city and everyday functionality are the
countryside or town. Style, function basis for an idiom which, combined
and durability are crucial. While the with carefully selected materials and
garments keep out the cold, the rain painstaking details, gives the gar-
and the wind, they radiate fashion- ments a long life.
consciousness and cutting-edge The North American wilderness is a
design. With the right clothing, the great source of inspiration. The colour
countryside becomes more pleasu- range is drawn from mountain and
rable, and the way home from the valley, majestic forests and peaceful
cinema on a cold winter evening meadows.
feels shorter.

30
TRAVEL: NEW YORK

7.45 AM. BALTHAZAR. This popular restau- Mediterranean and North African influen-
rant in the busiest thoroughfares in SoHo ces, from breakfast until evening.
is well worth a visit at any time of the day. 18 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn.
It’s a crowded and noisy place. But if you
really want to enjoy the great atmosphere 5.15 PM SATURDAYS SURF NYC
at the restaurant, you should rub the sleep Enjoy one of the best cups of coffee in New
out of your eyes and start the day with a York at a surf store in the middle of SoHo.
breakfast visit. The waiters are friendly Discuss the best wax or check out the latest
and attentive, and you can enjoy classic surfing fashion in the long, narrow store.
breakfast dishes, such as Eggs Benedict As well as its own clothes collection, the
and freshly-baked French bread. store also sells books, magazines and a
80 Spring St. great selection of knickknacks.
New York does not suffer 31 Crosby St.
10.30 THE BUTCHER’S DAUGHTER. This
from a shortage of restau- cosy café on the Lower East Side offers an 8.15 PM BUDDAKAN
extensive list of freshly-pressed juices – a Buddakan is situated in the middle of the
rants. Here are some excel- healthy, high-energy option which will Meatpacking District, an area famous for
lent suggestions for staying give you the kick you need to ease you its wide choice of restaurants. With its
through your shopping trip. 19 Kenmare St. spectacular interior and a menu which
replete and satisfied from makes for countless combinations, you are
13.30 FIVE LEAVES. One of the pleasantest guaranteed an enjoyable end to the day.
morning till night.
eateries in Brooklyn is located on Bedford The menu has a clear Asian focus, and is
Avenue. Five Leaves serves food with full of new taste sensations. 79 9th Avenue.

32
33
OSCAR OF SWEDEN

�he Perfect Shirt Wasn't


Made In a Da�

Oscar of Sweden is probably one of Sweden’s


most dedicated fashion companies when it
comes to shirts. Let's find out more while we
dive into the art of materials.

Oscar of Sweden is a family-owned company The collection unites exquisite fabrics with strict and
that makes essential shirts for the fashion forward sober design inspired by the post-war aesthetics. 1949
modern man. Founded in 1949, it was run from a is all about the art of materials, so they only used su-
small basement in textile town Borås, on the Swedish »The collection perior textiles such as Egyptian Cotton and Sea Is-
west coast. The owners Per and Eva Åhman started land Cotton. The mother of pearl buttons had to have
out early, pressing collars and cutting threads under unites exqui- the right combination of thickness, shine and quality.
their father’s watch. They soon learned the necessity In pursuit of perfection, even details and packaging
of putting consideration and thought into every part site fabrics with needs to be absolutely flawless. Since the collection is
of the work. Today shirts from Oscar of Sweden are a tribute to Oscar of Sweden’s history and heritage, it
sold all over the world, but are still designed in Borås. strict and sober was important to work with an experienced partner
Oscar proudly stands for craftsmanship, design and from Borås. Knowledge of adding value to fashion
quality, which is particularly noticeable in their pre- design inspired brands was a requirement. Nilörn produced the stit-
mium collection 1949. ched, neat labels and pure hangtags of paper with
– We wanted to create a collection that stands out by the post-war the 1949 logotype on. Nilörn also created exclusive,
from everything else on the market. In order to take white boxes to go with the sober and classic shirts.
our shirts to the next level we have gone back to our aesthetics.« – Despite our experience, to create the perfect shirt
roots. I guess you could say that Rome wasn’t built is a state of mind. You need to evolve to stay on top,
in a day and that really shows, says Fredrik Samuels- and 1949 is definitely a part of the constant develop-
son, Sales Manager at Oscar of Sweden. ment, says Fredrik Samuelsson.

34
ICH LIEBE NATUR

Ich liebe Performance


Foto: Damiano Levati

Women’s Kabru Jacket Vajolet 25

Green Shape ist deine Garantie für umweltfreundliche Produkte – aus nachhaltigen Materialien
und ressourcenschonender Herstellung. Unser Ziel ist das Beste für Mensch und Natur.
VAUDE ist Partner des WWF Deutschland: 1% der Erlöse aus der VAUDE Green Shape Kollektion
fließt direkt in die Naturschutzarbeit des WWF. VAUDE – engagiert für (d)eine lebenswerte Welt.

kabru.vaude.com
INDIGO

WORDS: Henrik Lindén


Indigo is probably the best-known of all natural dyes but, de-
spite this, the legendary pigment perplexes the chemistry ex-
perts. True indigo is extracted from the leaves of various bus-
hes and herb plants, mostly from the Indigofera tinctoria which
originates in Asia, India and South America.

t
he origins of indigo can be traced back to (2500 - 850 BC). This was extracted from a plant cal-
several different cultures around the world. led woad. It has since been established that these
The story is embedded in legend, and his- plants contain chemical indigo, but due to other che-
tory shows that it had positive connotations mical compounds in the plant, it does not produce
in the economic, political and social spheres. the same pure and concentrated blue dye as the Indi-
The colour blue is rare in nature. Blue flowers are gofera. Another difference between true indigo and
not as common as, say, yellow flowers, and there are other dyes is that it is better for dyeing plant fibres
no blue edible substances. This may be one explana- with poor absorption.
tion for why blue has held such special associations.
Production
Indigo from the Indigofera tinctoria plant has been It is primarily the plant leaves which are used in the
used in India for the past 4,000 years. Phoenician production of indigo. The plant pulp undergoes ex-
traders and migrating people gradually brought the tensive processing to produce the valuable blue dye.
dye with them to the Mediterranean. From there, in- Indigo provides a colourless, glucose-based substan-
digo spread throughout Europe. Indigo was a luxury ce called indican. During fermentation, this glucose
item held in very high esteem. In northern Europe, turns into blue indigotin. INDIGOTIN reaches the
a different blue dye was used from the Bronze Age market in the form of a fine powder or pressed cakes

36
INDIGO

which are not water-soluble. The water in a dyeing


bath must undergo reduction, which means that the
»A significant part of what
oxygen is removed. Textiles are immersed in this re-
duced form and are then hung up to dry. When ex-
makes a pair of jeans is the
posed to air, the dye oxidises and the intensive blue
colour emerges as if by magic. The whole process has
deep, blue colour. Today,
a mystical aura, and the dyers have been careful in
sharing their knowledge.
synthetic indigo is used for
almost all mass-produced
denim. Jeans dyed with true
synthetic indigo
In the 19th Century, global consumption of indigo

indigo are something for the


was very high. In 1866, a German chemist called
Adolph von Baeyer began to study the pigment. Af-

connoisseur.«
ter many years of painstaking research, he eventually
succeeded in understanding its chemical structure,
and synthesising it for commercial use. By the late
19th Century, Germany could produce synthetic in- During this period, demand for artificial indigo fell.
digo carmine more cheaply than the natural dye. For The market was saturated with other blue dyes. Na-
a time, true and synthetic indigo existed side by side, tural indigo was saved after World War II by the
and both versions had their adherents. But by 1913, passion for jeans, which spread like wildfire, and
natural indigo had been almost completely replaced reached astronomical proportions. A significant part
by the synthetic dye. This was due to several factors of what makes a pair of jeans is the deep, blue colour.
– availability, price and even politics. Globalisation, Today, synthetic indigo is used for almost all mass-
the spread of western fashion and the urbanisation produced denim. Jeans dyed with true indigo are so-
of younger generations also speeded up the process. mething for the connoisseur. These are more expen-
Initially, the traditional dyers were sceptical about sive due to the advanced process, but are believed to
the artificial indigo. When they gained access to the have a unique colour which cannot be achieved with
new, modern dyes, they continued, unsuccessfully, artificial indigo.
to use the same methods as before and this fuelled the
distrust of the new dye. But over time, most people The manufacture of synthetic indigo is highly mono-
accepted the synthetic dye and used natural indigo polised, with an annual production of around 20,000
only as a natural medicine and in religious ceremo- tonnes.
nies.

37
INDIGO

»yarn dyed with natural


indigo has to go through
the dye baths several
times to get the deep &
dark indigo tone, and the
process consumes more
energy and water.«
INTERVIEW
Kristin Rosenquist Olsson is Senior is the original way to dye the yarn of the Apart from that, yarn dyed with natural in-
Product Developer at Kuyichi. She is denim. As the natural indigo was both ex- digo has to go through the dye baths several
responsible for Kuyichi’s collection and pensive and rare and could not match the times to get the deep & dark indigo tone,
we asked her how natural and synthetic growing demand, the synthetic dye was and the process consumes more energy and
indigo differ on the boutique shelf. developed. water. It also demands an even production
process, as any unforeseen stops in the dy-
B&D: On the shelf, it is very hard or even B&D: Natural indigo dyed jeans are often ing process causes irregularities in the co-
impossible to tell the difference between sold as a premium product at a higher lour of the yarn, and it has to be scrapped.
natural and synthetic indigo dyed jeans. price. Why are they more expensive than With a synthetic indigo dye, the yarn goes
What's the difference? jeans dyed with synthetic indigo? through the dye baths once, or a few times
at most, as the dyestuff is absorbed by the
Kristin: You are right, it is almost impos- Kristin: Part of the reason why the natural yarn much faster. The energy and water
sible to tell the difference between the two indigo is more expensive is, as I mentioned use is less and a stop in the production line
nowadays. The difference is basically as above, that it is a natural product. It is also does not affect the yarn in the same way as
simple as in the name; Natural indigo is a not as readily available and the dyestuff is it does with natural indigo. ●
dyestuff that is extracted from plants and it more expensive to make.

FACTS
The genus Indigofera, the third from Arabia to South-East Asia At present, the crop is still
largest in the family Legumi- and in Australia. In Madagascar cultivated for dye production on
nosae, consists of almost 800 it seems to occur wild, while in a small scale in India and in some
species. The species are mostly most other Indian Ocean islands parts of Africa, southern Arabia
shrubs, though some are herbs, it probably has been introduced (Yemen), Central America and
and a few can become small and sometimes naturalized. Indonesia. The most important
trees. Leaf sizes vary from In tropical America it certainly present-day centre of indigo
3–25 cm. The flowers are small, has been introduced. Due to production from Indigofera is
produced on racemes. its historical exploitation and probably the northern part of
It occurs wild or naturalized in cultivation it is now distributed Karnataka state in India.
most countries of Africa, in Asia pantropically.

38
FOR WORK. FOR LIFE.
Ein Mann. Viele Aufgaben. Verschiedene Rollen. Der moderne Lebensstil verlangt
Flexibilität. Der Mann braucht Kleidung, die ihm Freiheit gibt. Kleidung, die ihn in all seinen Rollen
begleitet. Bei seiner Arbeit. In seiner Freizeit. Das neue WORK.LIFE.POLO:
Mit kräftigem Kragen, markantem Schulterschnitt und sanftem, bügelfreien Material.

AD.M Store . Predigerplatz 18 . 8001 Zürich


the-polo.com
FOCUS: DENIM

Selvage Pillow
Handmade pillow in high-quality Japanese indigo
denim with selvage details. Size: 550 x 550 mm.
www.bluejeanscompany.com

Denim is hardwearing and becomes better and


better looking the more use it gets. Free from
social and creative limitations, the familiar blue
fabric has spread far beyond clothing. It’s every-
where - from home interiors to book covers. Denim Apron
Denim indigo apron with two front pockets and
distressed details. www.gant.com

Cutting-edge Hardware
Incase and A.P.C. have joined forces to create a capsule collec-
tion that combines the finest selvage denim from Japan with
superb device-driven design. These accessories have been de-
signed especially for Apple users who appreciate refined fashion
and relish the latest technology. www.goincase.com

40
FOCUS: DENIM

Unbreakable
Fun interior design detail in the form
of a hardwearing denim ”balloon”.
Made by hand from recycled fabric.
Every balloon is totally unique.
www.bluejeanscompany.com

Stay Dry
Blue Denim canvas umbrella from London Un-
dercover. Traditional Beech wood shaft & handle.
Traditional industrial strength frame. Metal runner
& tip cup. www.londonundercover.co.uk

50 Shades of Blue
A fine handmade blank book, bound in denim and soft calfskin.
Use it as journal, diary, sketchbook or doodle book.
Design Jonathan Day. www.etsy.com

Back
Pack
Herschel Supply Co.
Little America. Fully-
lined with custom red
paisley liner, conto-
ured shoulder straps,
thoroughly-padded
and fleece-lined 17˝
computer sleeve
pocket, magnetic

Blue Eyes
closures, tan pebbled
leather details.
MAC Jeanius Eye Shadow comes in 4 limited- www.herschel.com
edition denim shades that colourfully shape your
eyes. Wear them with your favourite jeans.

41
www.talkingfrench.com

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