Trip Notes - Singapore May 2018

This trip came about for a simple reason – a deal too good to pass up. Besides, It was to Singapore – my
favorite city in the world. My previous visit had been for one long day (and night) and I didn’t have time
to cross over into Malaysia. Thus, the priorities for this trip were to spend more time during the day in
Singapore and to spend most of the trip in Malaysia. There was also some hope of making side trips to
Indonesia (just across the Singapore Strait to the south) and to Thailand (just across the Golok River to
the north).

My trip planning allowed for 8 days abroad out of ten total days. Two days are required by the 17 hour
flying time from LAX to Singapore (plus the time to get to LA). The basic schedule was:

5-20: Depart SEA on AK286 @5:00am: Arrive LAX @7:45am. Then depart LAX on UA 37 @10:35pm.
5-22: Arrive SIN @7:00am. (Flight distance: 8,770 miles). Stay at Robertson Quay Hotel
5-23: MTR/Bus to Johor Bahru. Stay at the Belllo Hotel, JB Central.
5-24: Transnational Bus (TJ113) from Johor Bahru (Larkin) to TBS (Terminal Bersepadu Selatan) Kuala
Lumpur (“KL”) arriving at 2:30pm. KL Metro Seri Pacific Hotel at Putra World Trade Center (“PWTC”)

1
One Singapore dollar equals $.75. One Malaysian Ringgit (“RM”) equals $.26.
5/27: Malindo Air #OD2302 departing KLIA @06:45: Arrive Pengkalan Chepa Airport, Kota Bahru,
Kelantan @07:40. Depart Tumpat Station @06:00pm on KTM Train 27 (Night Class Berth). Arrive JB
Sentral on 28 May @11:10am.
5-28 and 29: Stay at Amari Hotel, Johor Bahru. Cross to Singapore to scout transport and tour Marina.
5-30: Walk to CIQ to catch Transtar Cross Border Service (TS1) Coach to Changi at 5am. Depart SIN on
UA 38 @10:00am: Arrive LAX @11:05am (16hr 5min flight). Depart LAX on AK1797 @6:00pm: Arrive
Seattle (SEA)@ 8:40pm. Drive to Blaine.

The “deal” was simple – United had just announced its new direct flight service from LAX to SIN made
possible by the new 787-900 Dreamliner. The number of flights and times were highly limited, the price
was $531 (now $1645) and the deal sold out in hours. I paid $178 extra for economy plus seating on the
flight over (so I would arrive more rested). Indeed, it was a great flight with a bulkhead seat and I slept
well westbound. The Dreamliner has some nice features intended to make long flights more tolerable
and they seemed to work well for me. But the big difference was a bulkhead aisle seat allowing me to
get up and move about easily and frequently.

On the flight west I had seat 29D; east bound 27A. Room to stretch out without paying much extra,

I had allowed extra time at LAX in both directions to avoid any chance of missing a flight and to allow for
some break from flying. That also helped me to arrive feeling rested and allowed me to explore LAX (The
best seats are at TBIT Great Hall, first floor on the NW end. The nicest terminal overall is #6 (Alaska
Airline’ terminal).
As before, I was very impressed with Changi Airport which seems to deserve its high accolades (“World’s
Best Airport”) and I wouldn’t argue with those who suggest that it is a worthy destination in itself (no
kidding). But I had explored it well previously, felt excited and energized, and chose to tour Singapore.
The Singapore MRT is excellent and for S$16 (+S$10 for the card rental) I bought a Tourist day pass when
the ticket counter opened at 8am (they do not accept Visa – but MasterCard is OK?). I went straight to
my hotel to store my bags and then to “Harbour Front” (where one crosses to get to Sentosa Island –
where the “Summit” was held). After a 2 hour walking tour, I caught the Sindo Ferry to Batam
(Indonesia) ($30 r/t). The 1 hour crossing of the Singapore Strait provided great views of the city and
Sentosa Island), a chance to see hundreds of ships, and a chance to get off my feet.
The Orchid Garden at Changi Airport

Batam, Indonesia is at the lower right.

Sentosa Island (where the North Korea “Summit” was held).
 Singapore from the Strait – condos at left are on the east end of Sentosa Island.

Entering Tering Bay harbor for Batam Centre – the “Mega Wisata” amusement park on the right.
 My ferry went into Tering Bay and disembarked at Batam Center.

I arrived in Batam just before noon and easily made my way through immigration control. The first
glaring change from Singapore is the smell of human waste; the second is the heavy presence of
security.

The entrance to the mall (left-center) has tighter security than some US military bases.
I wasn’t favorably impressed with Indonesia or its people. But converting currency there makes one feel
instantly rich… 1 USD = 13,876.86 IDR (Rupiah) and prices are low (a cup of coffee was 3k rupiah – about
$.30). I only stayed a few hours, completed my walking tour of Batam, and headed back to Singapore.

From Harbour Front, I headed for Clarke Quay and the Elgin Bridge…

The Singapore River is nothing special, but its “River Walk” is quite nice…

My hotel was a couple of miles north along the walk at Robertson Quay and I was happy to call it a day.
After two (free) breakfasts, I caught the nearby MRT-NS north to Woodlands Checkpoint – the major
crossing from Malaysia (Johor Bahru). Unfortunately, there is no MRT across the causeway (for now) so
one must take a bus. You get on the bus, it travels a short way to the Checkpoint, you disembark, pass
through immigration departure, and then resume your bus ride to the Malaysian Immigration “CIQ”.

The causeway crossing is short but may take a while if traffic is heavy. I crossed four times on this trip
and averaged about ten minutes. The bus drops you off at JB Sentral CIQ (Customs, Immigration and
Quarantine) – a massive modern complex with associated travel hubs. Malaysian immigration is fast and
efficient. A sky bridge takes you directly to JB City Mall – an impressive 9 story complex (six floors of
shopping) where many store names are familiar and some are not.
 JB Sentral on the left and the City Center Mall on the right (from the skyway)

Yes, Malaysians love their durian… the fruit that smells like “sewage mixed with gasoline”. It is so
offensive, the Singapore MRT prohibits them on their trains. (Picture taken from a Subway).

My hotel was a block off the JB “river walk” – which essentially lacks a river and isn’t much of a “walk”.
Johor Bahru is transitioning into a modern city but still shows its roots…

After a noisy night’s stay at the Bellio Hotel (right at the CIQ where trucks honked at each other all
night), I taxied to JB Larkin, the large bus/coach terminal a few miles north. There I took a TransNational
coach to Kuala Lumpur (208 miles/4 hours). The scenery was surprising – mile after mile of African Oil
Palms.
The Larkin “bus” terminal in Joho Bahru. McDonald’s (center) has a strong presence in Malaysia.

Coach travel is popular and there are plenty of nice new buses available.
My bus trip followed the south-west coast – “JB” to “KL”
I arrived in Kuala Lumpur around noon (KL Sentral) and purchased a 2-day tourist pass for the MRT. I
headed straight for my hotel (the Seri Pacific at the Putra World Trade Center or “PWTC”). It was
beautiful and my room had a great view.

I went out to get some groceries at the shopping center across the street (at the right)2.

2
KL was founded at the meeting point of the Klang and Gombak rivers - the name “Kuala Lumpur” means “muddy
confluence”.
The Malaysians love their pastries and it was easy to find shops with plenty of options.

I returned to the hotel and took a nice long swim.

The next day was pre-scheduled (and ticketed) for my evening tour of the Petronas Towers. But with the
option to ride the Klang Valley Transit System all day, and the need to figure out how to get to the
Towers, I did a rail tour of the region…
I rode lines 3,4,5, and 8 from end to end. Line 8 is a mono-rail line through central KL, but it was slow,
hot, and uncomfortable (compared with the other trains). The other oddity was that its windows were
covered with ads…
KL exists because of local tin deposits and the original community was built at the junction of two rivers.
That old part of town sits as an island in the growing modern metropolis.

The KL region covers an area about the size of Singapore and there are more skyscrapers spread out in
the Valley than I’ve seen anywhere else. The day I arrived in KL they announced that the Petronas
Towers were no longer the tallest buildings in KL as the top floor of the newest tallest building just
surpassed the Towers.
And yet the new tallest building in SE Asia (the Exchange 106 Tower) will only hold that status for a few
months as yet another taller building (the Merdeka PNB 118) is catching up and will be taller.

KL has four of the 15 tallest buidings in the world (The entire US only has two) and plenty of other
skyline highlights. Some of the architecture is stunning.
 (Telekom Tower, Ilham Tower and the Four-Seasons Place near the Twin Towers)

I arrived at KL City Center just after sunset. KLCC is basically the “Times Square” of Malaysia.
The Petronas Towers sit amongst a group of tall buildings that makes them seem less impressive…

At least until you get closer…

And then you can’t even get one whole building in a wide-angle shot. The sky bridge is the highest in the
world and is higher than most of the nearby skyscrapers.

The view from the sky bridge is spectacular and the fountains below really catch the eye. The Exchange
106 Tower highlights the background.
The Public Bank Building is not among the tallest in KL, but it is certainly showy.
From the 86th floor, the view across to the other Tower is amazing…
At 1,483 feet, I’ve set a new personal record for tall building – formerly held by the old world Trade
Center in NYC at 1,368 feet. I hope to shatter that mark in 2045 when the Mile High Tower (5577’) is
completed in Tokyo.

The observation deck is attractive, but too brightly lit to make for easy picture taking through the
windows.
For now, one can look down on the nearby Merdeka PNB 118 building which will soon be taller than the
Twin Towers (or the Exchange 106).

(The Foyer between the Towers)

From the central fourier, you turn one way and see the lobby of Tower 1, and then look the other way to
see Tower 2. Its pretty impressive. And then, one last view as you leave the center…
My last day in the Klang Valley was spent exploring KLIA, Kuala Lumpur’s International Airport.

As it turned out, the Tourist Pass I had purchased included a light rail trip from KL to the airport which is
43km from downtown. But, the train doesn’t run all night and the earliest train wouldn’t get me to the
airport in time for my 6am flight. So, I used my pass to explore and find my way so that I’d know where
to go (after a taxi ride) the next morning.

KLIA is new, modern, and busy. While not up the standard of Changi, it rivals any US airport. I returned
to my hotel mid-afternoon happy to soak in the pool in preparation for two days of heavy-duty tourism.

My short (55 min.) flight tok us right back over central KL…
We landed at Kota Bharu in the state of Kelantan. The airport was just 20 miles from the Thailand
Border, so I took a taxi northward, first stopping at the Tumpat rail station where I would catch an
overnight train later that day. I hoped to drop off my bags – no suck luck, the station wasn’t open yet
(7:30 am). So, I carried my bags to Pejabat Imigresen at Pengkalan Kubor where I was advised to
definitely not leave/check/store my bags anywhere in town. So, I carried my bags to Thailand.

The Golok/Bang Nara River looking inland. Malaysia on left, Thailand on right.
Tak Bai Thailand – Taba Immigration Building (white) and outlet to South China Sea

Looking back (southward) towards Malaysia and the vehicle ferry

The Charoen Sap (“proserous food”) Market in Tak Bai. A “fishy” smell permeates the place.

Looking the other way.

Waiting for the vehicle ferry back to Malaysia

Crossing the river with the cart haulers.

My return to Malaysia was a relief – from both the smell and the oppressive poverty of Tak Bai. I taxied
to the Tumpat Train Station with two hours to spare for my train – only to find out it would be delayed a
couple of hours. So, I did a walking tour of Tumpat (after finally being able to check my bags).

Tumpat had a pleasant park on the Kelantan River

While sitting there a local gentleman approached and we had a pleasant conversation about our
countries. I stopped at a very nice bakery and had a great treat before heading back to the train station.
The Tumpat Rail Station with key staff.
 It was pretty clear who ran the place.

The “real train” was going to be hours late, so the decision was made to hook up the old train and take
us to meet the real one.
 It was pretty obvious why these rail cars had been “retired”.

Around midnight, we stopped at the station in Gua Musang where the station lights lit up the nearby
rock cliffs… Here is how they appear in the daytime…
Once on the “real train” (only a slight improvement), I slept well in the “Superior Night Berth” which was
only superior in name.

The countryside was interesting, but far from spectacular (I had become spoiled after just being in
Alaska).

It was disturbing to see so much of the “jungle” having been ripped out to make way for more Palm Oil
Trees. I was happy to be back in Johor Bahru and to be at the Amori Hotel. I had another nice view from
my room.
(Yes, it was a very “grey” day), but I had a gorgeous room.

And we’re long overdue for a “selfie”.

 And then, there was another beautiful pool that beckoned…

After resting and refreshing, I was ready for my last day of touring Singapore. I crossed the border again
and headed for the South Marina, the Gardens by the Bay, and the Bay Front.

There are many tour operators on either the river or the strait.
 It was early morning – this is about an hour after sunrice looking SE.

Being early it was only 90 degrees and 90% humidity (and the light was good.
The Marina Bay Hotel is Singapore’s iconic landmark
The Tree Lights are spectacular at night… not so much in the daytime.
The “Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands” are pretty amazing.

The facility includes a casino and large theater.

The view from the center’s patio (across the marina) is great.
 The “Helix Bridge” is beutifully lit at night (and just “cool” during the day).

The Museum of Science and Art s another Singapore Icon (from the Helix Bridge).

Next stop, the Botanical Gardens:

 The Singapore Botanical Gardens are an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The only comparable gardens I know of are the “Royal Botanical Gardens” in Sydney – and like those,
the locals treat the grounds like a city park
The black swans are hard to see… here’s a zoom…
 Singapore is the “City of Orchids”

Oops, time to find shelter – the afternoon rain is right on schedule.

 I made it back to the train just in time for the downpour.

Time for dinner (back in Malaysia) at my new favorite Thai restaurant (Thai Kra Thong).

And, before my last night in Malaysia was over, a full moon comes up over the city,
 JB CIQ (lower left) with full moon (south-east), city lights, and Singapore in the background.

Looking south-west, the view included the new sports arean, the Islam Bank and Singapore.

Time to head home. After a four mile taxi ride to get to the CIQ building (that you can see was a stone’s
throw from my hotel), I caught my coach to Changi (a story unto itself). Having a couple of hours to kill, I
headed for the Orchid Garden in Terminal Three.
This is just one of six gardens at Changi (the other are the Cactus Garden, the Sunflower Garden, the
Water Lily Garden, the Piazza Garden, and the Butterfly Garden), not to include the Garden Wall:

Or, the “Enchanted Garden” (an interactive experience)…

The airport is also famous for its fountains,soon to include the world’s largest indoor fountain.

And its sculpture…

Such as the world’s largest “kinetic scupture” – “Kinetic Rain” (see the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXuQnDeIyY8).

The flight eastward went as well as the flight westward with the oddity that I arrived at LAX an hour
after I left Singapore. Between 15 time time zone differences and crossing the international date line, I
managed to travel 29 hours – all on May 30th. Whew! What a day.

While I slept well on the trip eastward, I barely managed to doze off going the other way. But, I did get
to watch six movies. I had a five hour lay-over at LAX, where I did catch a good nap. The 3-hour flight to
SEATAC went well and I arrived home a half an hour before midnight. It’s now been over a week since I
returned and I’m still not back to my regular sleep schedule.

General Thoughts & Impressions:

Singapore continues to amaze me: it’s beautiful, convenient, clean, comfortable, affordable, and
obviously well designed and managed. The heat and humidity take some getting used to, but otherwise
it is as close to a perfect city as I’ve been to. This fact points to a symbiotic/synergistic relationship
between Singapore and Malaysia. Singapore greatly benefits from the qualities and accessibility of the
Malaysian people and the Malaysian people benefit from the opportunities and influences of the diverse
Singapore culture. It won’t last much longer as the Malaysian economy continues to thrive and its
advancing middle class earns higher wages. But, for the next few decades, both Singapore and Malaysia
are countries advancing, progressing, and creating a model for the future.

Singapore (Pop. 6 million) has the third highest per capita income in the world. While there exists a wide
gap between the richer and the poorer there, everyone in Singpore benefits from the investment in
infrastructure. The less than obvious side benefit of this investment is a country where pretty much
everyone feels secure pretty much everywhere all the time. This is partly cultural (just like the shocking
tidiness), partly a social expectation and party due to general prosperity. The Singaporians know they
need the Malaysians and they are treated with well-deserved dignity, fairness, and respect. The
Malaysians know they need the opportunities offered in Singapore and they respond with hard work,
trustworthiness, and respect. I respect both societies for what they have accomplished and what they
are doing together.

Malaysia (Pop. 32 million) impressed me favorably in three major ways: the quality of its people, its
progressive governments (state and federal), and its cultural depth. With a per-capita income about 1/5
that of Singapore (and the US), the malaysians accomplish plenty. There is a general feeling of
prosperity, comfort, happiness, and optomism. It is easy to see why many large companies have chosen
Malaysia for their manufacturing facilities.

The “west” (Europe and the US) is facing new competiton from the “east” (Japan, China, India, and SE
Asia) as well as the Gulf States. The world’s largest democracy (India) is investing heavily in education
and as it becomes the world’s most populated country, it promises to be an economic guggernaut. We
know how China’s well planned growth has changed the global economic picture and it is now
increasingly apparent how that will change the geo-political scene. With Singapore and Malaysia we can
witness how social investment in infrastructure closes the properity gap between rich and poor and
enhances opportunies for all.