PROCESSES, THEORY, HAZARDS AND DESIGN PRACTICE J.J. WUETUNGE Faculty of Engineering, University of Peradeniya, Sri Lanka Re 5 i S. Godage &tog amy ehuapeang ONAL TL sowed sng sy or en 4p pamol® Ap a88u O4M suONMIAEL PUR SLORNNE Te UENO} 4p s1e9k 7 2840 uo paseg, "ser ana ea pe uo "Yoon 2, Suseua jsee> Jo py ay o donrnpentt jnpesBiapr sjuas spac 0} 20S Jo 2aH99/go 2 B2Iejald » Sump siping: anager Ryn sass 26H OC 556-146 NASI [2s Torna] oy suv a 0 wa ie poomponda 29 Jou Ku fosoy sted 10 Yoo SL panes su IY sunnion 110 sepa do pe spr oy Aagoouibg ewe on won>mpee| ry rae wus oun a wosf woman worn1s Contents 1. tntroduction LE General backg 2 Basic dein 5 Coastal zone management SviLanka 2. Mathematical Description of Wave Motion. 2 Water wave problem ions for water wave pro ised water wave problem shallow water waves ook at = (7 22)tanhkh) | 26 Water particle kinematics for progressive waves 2.7 Pressure fleld under a progressive wave 28 Wave energy 29 Farther worked ex 3. Coastal Processes 3:1 Transformation of waves entering shallow water 32 Nearshore currents sediment transport 34 Farther worked examples 4 Coastal Structures 41 Introduction 45 Harbour structures 46 Design of rubble-mound structures 47 Other types 4 "7 19 20 m4 H 32 Mt 40 40 56 8 os « 6 7 79 a a1 % 100