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Crocheting 101 would never have been created if not
for the help of the friends and family who supported me
throughout its creation. Thank you so much for dealing
with my absent thoughts, ridiculous ideas, and inability to
communicate for the years while I was thinking, writing,
recording, editing and genuinely freaking out. Your space,
support and understanding, helped me more than you will
ever realize.
Pasta la Pizza,
-Lou
2
Table of Contents
Chapter 1 Get a Grip 5
Project 3 Coaster 54
Chapter 5 Decreasing 67
Sharp Decrease 71
Invisible Decrease 73
When to Decrease 77
Body 194
Brim 198
Pom-Pom 204
Happy
Hookin!
1
Chapter : Get a Grip
5
Holding the Hook
S p o o n G r i p
The
9
Chapter 2: Let’s Get Hookin’
Making a Slip Knot, Yarn Over and
Chain Stitch
Yarn Over
10
The
Slip
Kn
ot
11
Turn the loop over on itself, making it look
Step 3 a bit like a pretzel.
l l
Pu
Do or do knot.
There is no try.
13
These guys are the abbreviations
used in crochet patterns.
We’ll go over this more in Ch 9.
e Ya r n O ve r
T h
yo
ch
While the chain stitch might not be your
most used stitch, it’s definitely the most
important to learn and perfect; this is because it
requires the fundamental techniques for all the
other stitches.
16
With your hook in the slip knot, and using
your index and thumb to pinch just below
Step 1 the ‘tail’ - yarn over the yarn held with
your left (non-dominate) hand.
17
That’s seriously it! Now keep yarning over
Done! and pulling through to make more chains!
18
Project 1
How
to Cro e l e t
c het a Friendship Brac
What is this?
The Stitches
Slip Knot (Chapter 2)
20
Step 1 Make a slip knot with a decently long tail.
21
Cut the end and pull it all the way through
Step 3 the last loop to make a knot at the end.
u l l
P
22
3
Chapter : The Single Crochet
sc
Watch the video: | crocheting101.com/ch3
To start, Chain 9.
24
Once you have 9 nice looking chains,
you’ll skip the first chain from the hook
Step 1 and put your hook into the top loop
of the next chain over.
25
Step 3 Pull that loop through the hole.
26
And pull that loop through the rest of the
Step 5 loops on the hook.
27
At the end of the row, when you get through all
the chain stitches (8), all you need to do is chain
one and turn the whole thing around.
28
Now what?
So you want to put your next row of single crochets
into the previous row of single crocheted stitches
that you just made.
29
Make sure to skip that first chain you made though,
the one you made at the end of your first row.
Back Loop
Front Loop
30
You’ll be making these single crochets into each
stitch across. Here’s a picture with markers show-
ing where each stitch is.
7 5 3 1
8 6 4 2
The Stitches
Chain Stitch (Chapter 2)
33
First we’ll be making a simple flat base.
To start, Chain 9
Stop just before you pull through the last single crochet.
We’ll be doing a new technique to hide in this tail and
save us time in the end.
34
Instead of pulling through the last loop to finish this stitch,
yarn over with the tail end and pull it all the way through.
Now put the crochet hook back into the two loops (you might
need to tweak the loops over the hook with your nail for this).
35
Turn and chain 1. Skip the chain,
Row 2 single crochet in each stitch across.
(8 times total)
36
Here’s that tail poking out, we’ll cut it after Row 4
37
u ll
P
38
Finish the base by cutting the tails close to the
stitches to fully hide them in.
39
Finally to put it all together.
Pinch the main section together tightly to keep its shape.
Place the 3 chains you just made over the main section
and double knot in the back with the two tail ends.
40
Cut the knot close. This is the back so it
doesn’t matter if it isn’t hidden well.
41
Chapter 4: Taking Shape
inc
How to Increase and
Working in the Round vs Flat
42
But before we go into the logistics, let’s go over the
two ways to crochet: in the flat and in the round. We’ll
also go over how they are used, then talk about how
to increase for both techniques.
Rnd 1
43
Increasing in the Round
Sc
Inc
Ch = Chain Stitch
Sc = Single Crochet
Inc = Increase
Chain 2
45
To keep track of where your row begins
and ends, either use a stitch marker or
try sewing in a spare thread between the
last stitch of Rnd 2 and the first stitch of
Rnd 3. Don’t forget to move this marker
up at the beginning of each new round.
Okay here’s the tricky part; find the first sc you made
in Rnd 1, and sc 2 times (aka increase) into that stitch.
46
[sc in the first stitch, inc in the next stitch]
Rnd 3 repeat 6 times total (18 stitches total)
The full pattern of stitches for Rnd 3 will look like this:
sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc
1st
1st
2nd
2nd
= sc
= inc
47
[sc in 2 stitches, inc in the next stitch]
Rnd 4 repeat 6 times total (24 stitches total)
Rnd 3 Finished
(1 sc between increases)
=
Beginning and
end of Rnds
Rnd 4 Finished
(1 sc between increases)
Row 1
49
Increasing in the Flat
50
To start, make a chain however long you want the
shortest side. For me I’m going to work kind of small.
Chain 5
51
Turn, ch 2
Skip the first ch, sc in the next one
Row 2 Sc in each stitch from the last row across
(5 stitches total)
Row 1 turned
Ch 2
Turn, ch 2
Skip the first ch, sc in the next one
Row 3 Sc in each stitch from the last row across
(6 stitches total)
52
Turn, ch 2
Skip the first ch, sc in the next one
Row 4+ Sc in each stitch from the last row across
(7 stitches total)
53
Project 3
How
tH
ooCwrotoc c e l e t
hCertoac hFeriteandCso
haips tBe ra
The Stitches
Ch = Chain Stitch (Chapter 2)
St = Stitch
56
Rnd 2 Inc in each st around (12)
Inc
Sc
57
Rnd 4 [sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times total (24)
Inc
Scs
58
This pattern is awesome for another reason too. Like I
said before, we’re adding one single crochet for each
Rnd in between increases; in Rnd 3 it was just one
single crochet, and now there are two single crochets.
This is how I crochet without using stitch markers at
all. If you add the stitches from one increase to the
next you’ll have 4 stitches (two single crochets, and
one increase which is two single crochets together),
and we’re on Rnd 4. So if you count the number of
single crochet’s between increases and add two (to
account for the increase) you’ll get the number of the
Rnd that you’re on for this pattern.
Rnd 4 in Blue
Rnd 3 in Pink
You could stop here and skip to the invisible end, but
I’m going to go back a few stitches to make a simple
handle so we can hang our coaster up on a hook.
Go back 3 stitches.
Pull out our final increase and a single crochet.
Gently Pull
61
Ch 10
Sl.st (Slip stitch) into the back loop of the first ch made.
62
For a slip stitch, once you’re in the stitch, yarn over
63
Finally we’ll make an “Invisible End”
to hide the end of the Rnd
64
Cut the yarn and pull all the way through
u l l
P
65
Hide the ends in, and cut the tails close to
the piece so it’s totally hidden.
66
5
Chapter : Decreasing
Increasing Decreasing
Invisible Decrease
68
In patterns you’ll often see “dec” written as the abbreviation
for a decrease. Usually they are referring to this method.
69
Now repeat the process, Insert the hook in
Step 2 the next st, yo and pull through again.
70
Decrease (sharp decrease)
dec
74
Now you just have to make a single
crochet.
Step 2
yo, and pull through the two front loops.
75
I rarely, if ever use the sc2tog for my pieces. This is
because its basically the same thing as the InvDec,
but more noticeable. Think about what you’re trying
to accomplish in your piece before you choose which
method to use.
Sc2Tog InvDec
Skipping Stitches
18 - 6
12 - 6
78
How
Project 4
Htoow
CrtoocC
hero
t cahSep ac c
e l
k e t
t haeFre shaicp
rieonrdH kBy rSa
The Stitches
Ch = Chain Stitch
St = Stitch
Sc = Single Crochet
Inc = Increase
Insert the hook under the first two loops and yarn over
using the third loop.
Pull this through the first two loops, yarn over and pull
through again, basically making a chain around the
first two loops.
81
You can now pull it off of your finger and work a
single crochet around the two loops.
82
Pull the top loop, which should tighten the bottom
loop. Make it as tight as you think you’ll need.
84
Now we can start decreasing. To do that, we’re going
to use either the InvDec or the sc2tog. I’ll be using
the InvDec. For Rnd 9, we want to do the opposite of
our last increasing Rnd, Rnd 5, to go inwards instead
of outward. To do that we’ll sc 2, then InvDec 1 and
repeat that 6 times total. This will bring us down from
24 stitches to 18 stitches.
85
Cut the yarn and pull it all the way
through (do not ch 1)
86
Try not to over stuff it. There should be a bit of a
give when squeezing the sphere so that it’s squishy.
Here are our final 6 stitches. The one with the needle
is the last hole from the Rnd before the final Rnd,
you’ll be using this hole too.
6
5 0
4
1
3 2
We’re going to number them to make it easier. The
final stitches will be 1-6 and the other hole will be 0.
87
Start by going into the top of stitch 3, across, and
back out through 0.
88
Then into 5 and out of 2.
You can pull the whole thing tight now, and finish up
by going into stitch 6.
Poke the end out of the side of the piece you can
either cut it here, or go back through the bottom.
89
This should keep your piece closed. But if you’re
nervous about it opening up, make a knot at the end.
I’m going to knot it since I’ll probably be kicking it
around a lot and it might come loose otherwise.
90
There we go! Now We can go play a bit of hacky
sack or use this same pattern for making the head for
a little amigurumi guy!
91
Crocheting 101 is brought to you by:
93
Beanie B c h e t s
rim made with half-double cro
94
Step 2 Insert your hook in the next stitch
95
Yo again, and pull that loop through all
Step 4 three loops on the hook to finish up the
stitch.
96
How
Project 5
HtowC
troocChreo ac n
e l
d e t
tcaheBtoawFTrienodrshHie
p aBdrba
97
The Materials
• Yarn: Worsted Weight Cotton
• Hook: Size G6 / 4.00mm
• Other: Scissors and a Needle to sew in ends
The Stitches
Ch = Chain Stitch
St = Stitch
98
The pattern is split into 3 parts: The Base
The Base
Ch 22
To hide the tail end (like we did in the mini bow) you
can stop at the last hdc and pull through with the tail.
99
Then re-insert the hook into the loops and finish the
final stitch as normal. Make sure to work around that
tail end as you continue on.
Tail
100
You’ll be making the same Row 5 times total.
101
Here’s the base finished
Ch 14
102
The Strap
Finally, we’ll make the strap which the bow ties onto
and wraps around the wearer’s neck or head. The
length is going to be different for everyone depending
on what you’re making and the size of the persons
neck or head. I have 3 different ways to make these.
Sewn Together
(Best for a headband)
Front
Side
Tie Strap
(Best for a Bow Tie)
Front
Side
103
Button-on
(can be used for either)
Front
Side
Ch 6
But before I continue, all the stitches for the rest of the
strap, regardless of the version, will be worked into
the BLO (back loops only).
104
Sewn Together Version
105
Thread the end on a needle and put the two ends
together and sew together with a whip stitch
106
Tie Strap Version
108
When you get to the length you want (I end up
around 50 Rows total), cut the yarn, ch 1 and
pull through
Hide the ends in, and cut the tails close to the
piece so it’s totally hidden
109
When you want to tie it together, put the one
normal end into the tie holes, basically weaving
through the two holes.
110
Button-on Version
112
Hide the ends in and cut the tails close to the
piece so it’s totally hidden
113
Putting it together
Fold the base part in half, then half again and pinch it
tight in the center so it somewhat holds it’s shape.
114
There ya go, now you can look dapper at any
event and say you actually made the bow tie!
Or use it as a headband!
115
7
Chapter : The Double Crochet
dc
Watch the video: | crocheting101.com/ch7
Double Crochet
Half-Double Crochet
Single Crochet
117
Step 2 Insert your hook in the next stitch
118
Yo again, and pull that loop through only
Step 4 2 loops (not all three like the hdc)
119
For double crochet stitches (dcs), you’ll need to add
3 chs before the beginning of Rows (in the flat) kinda
like with the hdc.
120
Project 6
HoHwo
wto tC
o rC
orcohceht eat FariG r
e l
e e t
niyp
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S r
q a
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a
The Stitches
Ch = Chain Stitch
St = Stitch
Dc = Double Crochet
123
Make a 3rd cluster [dc 3, ch 1] in the hole.
To finish Rnd 1, sl.st into the top chain from the first st in
the first cluster you made, to join the Rnd.
124
Here’s what Rnd 1 looks like written out and
finished:
125
By the way you don’t have to turn at all for this
pattern.
Rnd 2
Ch 3 (counts as a dc), working into the ch 1
space from the previous Rnd, dc 2 and ch 1 to
make our first cluster
126
Continue around making 2 clusters in each corner.
When you get to the last corner, work a cluster
into the space and join with a sl.st in the top ch
you made at the beginning of the Rnd.
127
Rnd 3 +
Start Rnd 3 like you did for Rnd 2:
Ch 3 (counts as a dc), working into the ch 1 space from
the previous Rnd, dc 2 and ch 1 to make our first cluster.
128
Join Rnd 3 the same as you did for Rnd 2,
by sl.st into the top ch.
Hide the yarn using a hidden end like we did for the
coaster (see Chapter 10 for full instructions).
130
And that’s all there is to granny squares!
131
8
Chapter : Changing Colors
132
First off, we need to know how to crochet around a
different strand of yarn and bring it with you.
133
Finish the sc over the new strand of yarn.
134
Put your index finger of your non-domonant (left) hand in
between the two strands of yarn.
Flip the new color (pink) under the old color (green).
135
Sc a few times with the new color around the old
color to lock it in before cutting it.
137
If you’re using two colors, just let go of the piece and
hold each color in each hand and let the piece spin
around and untangle itself! It’s a fun and easy trick I
found to get the yarn un-spun really quick.
138
One thing I’d like to note though, when you do color
changes, try to stick to the same kind of yarn. There
should be a little icon on your yarn telling you the
basic type of yarn it is, this can be a good indicator
to knowing if two yarns are compatible for yarn
changing.
142
The steps to a pattern are usually written
as Rnd 1 or Row 1 (remember rounds
and rows from chapter 4?). These are
how you keep track of where you’re at
in the pattern.
USA UK
144
If you feel that your gauge is off and it’s really
important for the pattern, for something you’re going
to wear like a beanie, you can make what’s called
a swatch before your start. It’s basically a sample
square which you can then measure to see if you’re
off, and adjust accordingly by using a larger crochet
hook or physically changing how tightly you crochet.
145
Keep an eye out for numbers in parentheses at the end
of the Rnd like this. These tell you how many stitches
you should have total by the end of your Rnd/Row.
If you think you might have messed up, a quick count
of your stitches and comparing it to this number can
help you know if you messed up.
146
Chapter 10: Advanced
Techniques
Techniques taught:
A lot of the techniques
in this chapter you’ve Slip Stitch
likely seen or gone over Joining in the Round
briefly in the Projects, Hiding Ends
but here we’ll be going Sewing Together
over them a bit more in Sewing Closed
depth. The Magic Loop Method
Treble Stitch
147
The Slip Stitch
Sl.st
*sometimes “sl st” or “ss”
149
For slip stitches (sl.sts)
you’ll only need one
chain and the beginning
of a Row, kind of like a
single crochet.
151
Usually you’ll be making these into a ring of
chain stitches, so to start lets Chain 6
152
Now work our double crochet stitches into the
center of the ring (sometimes they’ll be worked
into the chains depending on the pattern).
Join the Rnd with a sl.st into the last of the 3 chs you
made in the begining of the Rnd
153
Now we just continue on. Depending on the pattern,
you might have to turn here (which is why I say it’s
kind of like a meld between working Round and
in the Flat), though a lot of patterns just have you
continue on without turning.
154
When you get to the end and have 24 stitches
(not including our first ch 3), you want to skip our
connecting sl.st and instead join the ends by making
a sl.st into the top chain, like we did before.
156
Hiding Ends
158
The second technique I call the “Hidden End” and
it is mostly for working in the round and works by
mimicing the tops of stitches before sewing them
into the piece to fully hide them.
Slip Stitch (Sl.st) into the next stitch, cut the yarn and
pull through.
159
Thread the tail onto a needle and go into the back of
the next stitch over.
160
Now sew the tail end into the piece like before by
going into the backs of the adjacent stitches.
161
Sewing Together
164
There’s also a method called the invisible seam.
165
Then go back and do the same on the first and
second stitch on side B.
166
And the third and fourth on side B.
167
Knot the yarn at the end by going around the final
stitch, and then through the loop you just made.
168
Sewing Together Amigurumi
169
Because there are 6 stitches for the last Rnd of the
arm, when we sew it onto the body we want to find
the 6 places the stitches are going to go. Try to
find your 6 stitch spots before you begin sewing it
together. Here’s where I’m choosing.
170
You’ll then go into the stitch on the arm from
the outside and back into the stitch on the body
where you came out.
171
The last stitch should come out of the body exactly
where the very first stitch went in.
172
Its going to be a lot easier if the body isn’t stuffed
and sewn closed, but not impossible to do.
173
If you have to sew two things on just make both
the tails come out from the same stitch, knot them
together, and stuff them back in the body.
176
Here are our 6 stitches, and this one is the last hole
from the Rnd before the final Rnd, you’ll be using
this hole too.
6
5 0
4
1
3 2
177
Pull it somewhat tight, but I would avoid pulling
the loops too tight until the end because the
stitches are going get pulled together and it can
be confusing on where to go next.
178
You can pull the whole thing tight now and finish
up by going into stitch 6.
Poke the end out of the side of the piece you can
either cut it here or go back through the bottom.
179
This should keep your piece closed. But if you’re
nervous about it opening up, make a knot at the end.
Insert the hook under the first two loops and yarn
over using the third loop
182
Pull this through the first two loops, yarn over
and pull through again, basically making a chain
around the first two loops.
183
Make the rest of the stitches you’ll need for Rnd
1, in this case 6 scs total, so we need five more.
184
And pull the tail to tighten the top loop.
186
Yarn over twice.
187
Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook.
188
Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook
one final time to finish the stitch.
189
Project 7
HoHwo
wto tC
o rC
orcohceht eat FariCelnadssh i e
e l e t
B
icipBe r
a n
a c
190
This beanie pattern is designed to be multipurpose
and can be worn as a slouchy beanie or a simple skull
cap and I’ll be teaching you how to make it in sizes
Extra Small to Extra Large so that it can fit nearly any
head. I’ll also be teaching you how to make pom-
poms to add to the top.
Anatomy of a Beanie:
Body
Brim
o m
m-p
Po
191
The Materials
• Yarn: Medium Weight Acrylic / Wool
- Around 170 yards
• Hook: Size I9 / 5.50mm
• Other: Scissors and a Needle to sew in ends
The Stitches
Ch = Chain Stitch (Chapter 2)
St = Stitch
Sc = Single Crochet (Chapter 3)
Inc = Increase (Chapter 4)
Sc2tog = Single Crochet 2 Together (Chapter 5)
Hdc = Half - Double Crochet (Chapter 6)
Sl.st = Slip Stitch (Chapter 10)
BLO = Back Loops Only
1
1 2 3 2
3
4
Rnd 2
11:12
193
11:12 / 1:01:38
The Body
Rnd 2:
inc (sc 2) in each st (12)
02:57
Rnd 3:
[sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times (18)
03:18
Rnd 4:
[sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times (24)
03:48
Rnd 5:
[sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times (30)
04:15
Rnd 6:
sc in each st (30)
04:45
Rnd 7:
[sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times (36)
05:16
Rnd 8:
[sc 5, inc] repeat 6 times (42)
05:57
Rnd 9:
sc in each st (42)
06:20
194
The Body (Continued)
Rnd 10:
[sc 6, inc] repeat 6 times (48)
06:41
Rnd 11:
[sc 7, inc] repeat 6 times (54)
07:24
Rnd 12:
sc in each st (54)
08:08
Rnd 14:
sc in each st (60)
09:11
Rnd 16:
sc in each st (66)
10:11
Rnd 18:
sc in each st (72)
Rnd 20:
sc in each st (78)
Rnd 21:
[sc 12, inc] repeat 6 times (84)
Rnd N
Rnd N:
sc in each st (?)
11:52
196
Before Rnd N
After Rnd N
197
The Brim
Ch N + 2
(XS = 12, S = 13, M = 14, L = 15, XL = 16)
198
Row 2:
Turn, skip 3 sl.sts, Working in BLO,
hdc in each st up (N)
14:15
199
Turn, ch 2, skip the chs.
Row 3:
Working in BLO, hdc in each st down,
Stop 1 stitch early.
Connecting Loop
Connecting st
200
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you reach the
beginning brim chs you made prior to Row 1.
201
Thread the tail on a needle and sew the brim together
with a whip stitch by working into the beginning chs
made before Row 1 and the back loops only (BLO)
from the sts of the last Row you made.
202
When you get to the bottom and there are no more
sts to work into, hide the tail into a few stitches on the
beanies rim and cut the yarn close to fully hide it.
204
Wrap the yarn many times around. The more you
wrap it the more dense your pom pom will be.
Cut the yarn and place the newly cut end into the
gap between your hand and the wrapped yarn.
205
Wrap the pulled through yarn around the outside
and through the gap again 2 more times.
206
Double knot the ends and tie it tight.
207
Trim the pom pom so that the ends are even and
it’s more of a sphere.
208
Double knot the ends on the inside and cut them close.
You can hide these ends in, but it’s not necessary.
209
Kickstarter Backers
210
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Liz Root too mom)
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211
About the Author