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1. INTRODUCTION
Building of a geodesic dome is based on the layout of an icosahedron into a sphere, following which
each plane face is to be sectioned into a network of smaller triangles (figure 1) or hexagons (figure 2),
which are subsequently projected onto the sphere. The edges of the triangles that were thus obtained
are to be approximated to right line segments that are to form the geodesic network of the dome, in
order to evenly undertake and distribute the mass of the structure.
2. CLASSIFICATIONS
The classification of the geodesic dome is made according to the main polyhedron, according to the
number and the type of the sub-divisions, the “latitude” where the geodesic sphere is cut in order to
obtain the dome. According to the type of triangulation of the main polyhedron, the geodesic domes are
divided into classes:
The number of the segments into which is divided each line of the main polygon during the triangulation
process is called frequency [3]. To make an icosahedron approximate a sphere more closely, the
triangles making up the icosahedron are subdivided by splitting the edges of the triangle and then
making the new split edges into more triangles. As in the figures 3,4,5, splitting each edge into n new
edges yields n2 new triangles.
Geodesic domes are comprised of a network of triangles that form a somewhat spherical surface. We
found that there are several dome classes that are referred to as 1V, 2V, 3V etc. The more complex the
network of triangles, the more spherical the geodesic dome and the higher the class number. A 1V dome
has fewer triangles, uses only one size triangle in its simple pattern, and less closely approximates a
hemisphere. A 6V dome has many triangles of multiple sizes that are arranged in a complex pattern to
create a more smooth and spherical shape.
Higher class domes offer greater structural stability and are ideal for larger dome frames. After
contemplating the challenges of more complex domes, we decided that a 2V dome made from EMT
(electrical metallic tubing) conduit would best meet our needs and would be the most economical
choice as well.
STRUCTURE
The force put into a corner of a triangle is directly transmitted to the base of the triangle. Since an
icosahedron is made up of triangles, the force is distributed throughout the shape. The icosahedron can
collapse from one of the joints between separate triangles bending, but that's still a very strong
structure. Dome-type homes are extremely energy-efficient due to the shape, and very resistant to
natural disasters, strong winds or devastating earthquakes. Another quality of the dome-type homes is
the low construction cost as compared to a regular home built on the same surface. Specialized
companies usually deliver kits to build up the dome-home, that the owner and a couple of friends can
assembly with no cranes or other special machines. The structure is self-portent, which leads to multiple
choices when it comes for interior subdivision. Warmth, light, noise are equally distributed.
Nowadays, geodesic domes are known as being the most efficient building system, Anvelope /volume
proportion being small. Other advantages of the structure are its esthetics and the special attractiveness
and this is why it is also recommended for public buildings and for touristic attractions, as well.
Calculating the Struts – Dome Formulas
All in all, making the dome was pretty simple, once we completed our dome calculations.
The first step in constructing the dome was to cut the EMT conduit into appropriately sized struts. We
planned to cut the EMT with a pipe cutter, though it turned out that the one we purchased was broken
and completely unusable. Luckily our new vice came equipped with a pipe clamp and we used the vice
to hold the EMT conduit, while we cut with a hacksaw.
Flattening the Ends
Because we had just bought our vice we were afraid to damage it flattening EMT. Instead we used a
sledge hammer to pound both ends of each strut. It made a lot of noise, but was quite effective. The
most important aspect to this step is to make sure that the flattened ends are on the same plane. It is
also critical to flatten the ends without splitting the conduit along its weld seam. To do this, identify the
pipe seam (a dark line running the length of the pipe) and rotate pipe so that the seam does not fall
directly north/south or directly east/west when flattening the end.
Next, we drilled 25/64 inch diameter holes at the end of each strut. The strut lengths calculated by the
dome formula allow for the holes to be drilled 3/4 of an inch away from each end. Instead of measuring
3/4 of an inch from each end, we set up a jig so that the length between holes was consistent between
struts. We drilled our struts with a cordless power drill without problem, though a drill press would have
made the process go a little quicker. To get the hole in desired location, we first used a punch to make a
guide for the drill bit.
Bending the Struts
To make a dome out of straight lengths, each strut must have a slight angle on each flattened end.
Though there are formulas to determine the exact bend, we found that the bends did not need to be
precise at all. In fact, when the dome is assembled the bends will adjust themselves to the appropriate
angles. To be precise a 2V dome requires the following bends: A = 18˚ and B = 16˚. We clamped each
end in the vise, giving the struts a pull to make the bend.
To prevent rusting we spry painted the ends of the struts, though I've recently read that EMT conduit is
plated and will not rust even when left untreated. However, I recommend painting struts in order to
color code the various lengths. It may not seem like a big hassle to sort the dome struts by length, but
color coding really helps when assembling the dome, especially if you plan on building it with a group.
Dome Assembly
When we first assembled the dome we experimented with many methods that we found recommended
online. We built it from the bottom up and from the top down. After experimenting with it for several
weeks, we settled on our own favorite assembly method.
Assembly Step One:Connect 5 of the short struts together using a bolt, washers and a nut.
Assembly Step Two: Connect five of the longer struts around the perimeter to make a pentagon.
Assembly Step Three: Use the remaining struts to create five more pentagon "pods".
Assembly Step Four: When assembling sections attach the shorter struts on the outside and the longer
struts on the inside for consistency.
Assembly Step Five: Erect two "pods" by joining their corners with a single bolt. On one of the sections a
corner bolt will have to be removed first.
Assembly Step Six: Connect a total of five pods together completing the circumference of the dome.
Assembly Step Seven: Complete the base of the geodesic dome. Place long struts on the ground
between the pentagon pods and join at the lower corners.
Assembly Step Eight: Lift the last pod into place above the existing structure. Align the corners and join
each with a single bolt.
EXAMPLES
Such a dome was built in 1977 by eng. POP Liviu in Oradea. It is the botanical Greenhouse on the Aleea
Strandului which now has become the Research Centre of the Oradea University. Another recognized
accomplishment is also the Botanical Garden [figure 7] in Jibou, built by the same engineer and designed
by the architect Zisu Valentin, 1978.