Perfume Engineering

Design, Performance &

Classification

Miguel A. Teixeira, Oscar Rodriguez, Paula Gomes,

Vera Mata, Ali'rio E. Rodrigues
Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering "(LSRE)
Associate Laboratory

Department of Chemical Engineering

Faculty of Engineering of University of Porto
Porto, Portugal

P. Gomes and V. Mata are currently at i-sensis company

© LSRE

AMSTERDAM •
BOSTON •
HEIDELBERG •
LONDON
NEW YORK • OXFORD •
PARIS •
SAN DIEGO
SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE •
SYDNEY •
TOKYO
ELSEVIER Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier
Preface vii

Chapter 1 A Product Engineering Approach in the

Perfume Industry 1

1.1 The Flavor and Fragrance Market 1

1.2 From the Idea to Market: Product Engineering 5

References 12

Chapter 2 Design of Perfumes 15

2.1 The Perfumery Ternary Diagram 16

2.2 Application of the PTD® Methodology: Effect

of Base Notes -. 32

2.3 The Perfumery Quaternary-Quinary Diagram (PQ2D®) 41

2.4 Perfumery Octonary System 54

2.5 Conclusion 57

References 58

Chapter 3 Performance of Perfumes 61

3.1 Fragrance Performance 62

3.2 The Relevance of the Selection of Fragrance Ingredients 66

3.3 Evaporation of Fragrance Chemicals 69

3.4 Diffusion of Fragrances 74

3.5 Conclusion 90

References 91

Chapter 4 Classification of Perfumes—Perfumery Radar 95

4.1 The Perception of Odors 96

4.2 Classification of Perfumes 109

4.3 The Perfumery Radar (PR) Methodology 113

4.4 Applications of the PR Methodology 120

vi Contents

4.5 Experimental Validation of the PR Methodology 137

4.6 Evolution of the PR with Evaporation and Diffusion 140

4.7 Final Considerations on the PR Methodology 141

4.8 Conclusion 143

References 143

Chapter 5 Looking Ahead 149

5.1 Unraveling the Sense of Olfaction 151

5.2 The Role of Perfume Engineering 152

5.3 Fragrance Performance: Different Routes 155

5.4 Fragrance Stability 156

5.5 Integrative Approach Development: The Role

for Product of

Microeconomics and Planning Strategies 157

References 158