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But it was the conceptualist, the idea man, the storyteller, who began
making news. After a stint with a theatrical costume company he went to
design school and quickly gained a reputation for distinctively dark, louche
brilliance. He titled his graduate show “Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims,”
signing each piece with a stitched-in lock of hair. He turned to violent films
like “Taxi Driver” and “The Shining” for inspiration, and to tales of
persecution (17th-century witch hunts) and martyrdom (Joan of Arc).
An ensemble with a coat of duck featherspainted gold and a skirt of silk tulle
embroidered with gold threads.
Donatella Versace
4
Afterwards he worked with Jacques Esterel in 1971 and Jean Patou later
that year, then returning to manage the Pierre Cardin boutique in Manila for
a year in 1974.
His first individual collection was released in 1976 and his characteristic
irreverent style dates from 1981, and he has long been known as
the enfant terrible of French fashion. Many of Gaultier's following
collections have been based on street wear, focusing on popular culture,
whereas others, particularly his Haute Couture collections, are very formal
yet at the same time unusual and playful.
Although most people found his designs decadent at the
time, fashion editors, notably Melka Tréanton of Elle, Claude Brouet and
Catherine Lardeur of French Marie Claire, were seduced by his creativity
and immediately noticed his mastery of tailoring and later launched his
career. In 1985 he introduced man-skirts, and produced sculptured
costumes for Madonna during the nineties, starting with her infamous cone
bra for her 1990 Blond Ambition Tour, and designed the wardrobe for her
2006 Confessions Tour. Gaultier has also worked in close collaboration
with Wolford Hosiery. He promoted the use of skirts, especially kilts on
men's wardrobe, and the release of designer collections.
models, and by playing with traditional gender roles in the shows. This
earned him both criticism and enormous popularity.
At the end of the 1980s, Gaultier suffered some personal losses, including
his lover and business partner Francis Menuge, who died of AIDS-related
causes.
Gaultier designed the wardrobe of many motion pictures, including Luc
Besson's The Fifth Element, Pedro Almodóvar's Kika, Peter
Greenaway's The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover, and Jean-Pierre
Jeunet's La Cité des enfants perdus (The City of Lost Children). He
currently designs for three collections: his own couture and ready-to-wear
lines, for both men and women.
In France the costumes he designed for singer Mylène Farmer gained
much attention. In spring 2008 he signed a contract to be again the fashion
designer for her tour in 2009.
Miuccia Prada
and when the garments are liberated from their paper cocoon, they are
ready-to wear.