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Thread: Door Module Repair DIY

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shovelhead84 Door Module Repair DIY 05-20-2012 02:22 AM #1

Member
Fellow R32 owner and local friend AWD4416 recently started having problems with his Driver Door Module. The module was presenting itself
on Vag-com and showing some occasional symptoms of failure. His research found that several people were having this issue on the MKV
platform and most people ended up purchasing new modules for over $140 or having them replaced by a professional shop for much more.
We decided it may be worth looking into the module for a fix rather than just replacing it. Besides, if it was going bad he would have to buy
a new one anyway, so we started taking things apart for a look-see .
Join Date: Nov 26th, 2010
Location: Liberty Hill, Texas Sure enough, we found the problem. The entire issue can be fixed at home with a few tools and a soldering iron. We took the time to create
Posts: 1,596 this write-up to save some other people a few bucks on repairs and to shed some light on potential reoccurring issues.
Vehicles: Euro or bust!
What symptoms may encourage you to check your module? Some or all of the following:
1. Remote window activation works periodically or not at all (if enabled).
2. Key-in-Door window activation is periodic or does not work at all.
3. MFD shows periodic or incorrect door status.
4. Remote door lock / unlock is periodic or does not work at all.
5. Key-in-Door unlock activates intrusion alarm.
6. Vag-com scan gives reoccurring code for Door Electronics.

We are not mechanics and did not have manuals on hand, so expect some improper terminology. I welcome input from others if this process
can be done any more efficiently. This was performed on a 2008 R32, however many steps in the process directly apply to several other
models.

Now, let's get started

TOOLS:
T8
T10
T15
T20
T30
Triple Square #6
Needle Nose Pliers
Pick or Jewelers Driver
Soldering Iron / Solder
6-Pack
A buddy (some steps are easier with extra hands and you should never drink alone)

1. Acquire a car with some symptoms of module failure. In this case we have an 08 R32. Make it cozy in a shady place and ROLL UP THE
WINDOW in the door you will be working on.

2. We will be disassembling the door latch/lock system. It is important to prevent the door from closing completely or latching during the
process. Place a Towel or "Something" in the door frame to prevent closing/latching.
3. On the rear of the door you will want to remove the plastic cover that extends from the bottom of the door to the base of the window.
Start by pulling directly away from the door at the bottom and work your way upwards. You will hear some popping as the panel clips
release.
4. Now the plastic panel has been removed. Find the small grey adhesive cover and remove it. Keep it for later. A bit of 3M spray will stick it
right back home during reassembly.
5. After removing the grey sticker you will find an access hole. There will be a screw inside the hole that releases the door lock barrel. Insert
a T15 (see note) and move to the next step.
NOTE: Member MJZman reports this as requiring a T20.

6. Pull the door handle out first and hold it in the open position. Then begin loosening the internal screw. Loosen the screw until the lock is
released. DO NOT remove the screw entirely.

7. After the lock has been released, continue holding the handle in the open position while pulling the lock barrel out of the door. It should
slide out easily.

8. With the lock out of the way, allow the door handle to retract to its normal position (the following picture shows the handle extended. this
is incorrect). You will need to pull the Latch Cable End out of the ribbed channel. Simply put a pick or jewelers driver under the end and pry
it out. You should hear a small click when it releases. The cable may retract slightly, this is OK. It will be easily accessible during reassembly.

Reassembly Note: reattaching the cable with too much/little tension may cause poor function of the door handle operation. Test the
handle after reconnecting to verify function.
9. After the cable is released, slide the handle sideways towards the (rear) edge of the door. The handle should pop loose and a screw
should be visible on the hinged side. Swing the handle out, in an "opening" motion. Continue this motion until the handle comes completely
out of the door.
10. A screw should be visible after the handle has been removed. Take that screw out with a T20.

11. In the image below I have labeled/highlighted all the screw locations for our R32. You may find variations in the screw location and
count depending on the model of car you are working on.

Though the screws look similar, there are three different types being used. It is important to label and account for the screws as you remove
them. Be sure to take notes at this point and keep your parts organized.
12. Begin removing the door panel screws. Go around the entire door and remove all the screws. The door should remain in place after all
screws are removed, but you may want a friend to keep a little pressure on the panel, just encase.

Reassembly Note: While removing the screws, take note of the overlap in the panels on the bottom outside corner. You will need to align
this point first when you are reassembling your door.
NOTE THE OVERLAP

13. After removing all the screws, gently push the door nearly to the closed position. The Towel or "Something" should allow the door to
come near closing, but not latch. Putting the door in this position helps to insure you do not pinch the door panel against the front quarter
panel. Be patient in this step so you do not damage the painted surface of your door or quarter panel. Also, be sure you have a safe and
clean place to put your door panel once it has been removed.

Starting from the bottom rear and pull the panel out away from the door. You will hear a soft popping sound as the panel is released from
the door frame. Continue this process around the entire door panel. After all corners are released the door should be free.

Afterthought: Looking back at this step, we should have ran a line of masking tape along each body panel edge. Try putting a line of tape
in the seam between the door panel and the front quarter panel to prevent damage. If someone does this, take a pic.

14. Brace the mounting arm and remove the rubber band. After removing the band, the arm should slide forward freely. Set the arm aside
and keep your rubber band safe for re-installation.

15. Now you can easily access the door module case and associated plug. At this point you can check the module to see if you have the
"broken solder joint issue".
16. Check to make sure the module plug is seated properly. You may even want to disconnect and re-seat the plug to be sure.

Pull the door out to an open position. With the module still plugged in, grab the base of the plug and try to wiggle it. By putting pressure
towards and away from the door it can cause the the unit to malfunction/short. You will see the MFD display change the door status due to
the malfunction. This action may even activate window functions and door locks. This is due to the bad connection inside.

A. IF YOUR MFD CHANGES DOOR STATUS, then continue on for the fix.

B. IF YOUR MFD DOES NOT CHANGE STATUS, then this may not be the fix for you. I suggest continuing on through the tutorial
to get a visual verification, but your problem may be elsewhere.

17. To release the module you will need to remove the 2 triple square bolts from the rear side of the door. After these are removed the
module and case should come free from the door.
18. The module is held to the case with three clips. Disconnect these clips and pull the module out of the case. They should snap off rather
easily.

(image lost)

19. The inner door latch cable will need to be disconnected. Pop the cable out of the module clip. You may need to use a small screw driver
to leverage it out from underneath the clip.

Pull back on the latch lever to remove the tension from the cable.
With the latch lever pulled and cable tension released, twist the cable head 90* and pull it out of the latch lever. The module should now be
free from the door and taken to a work bench.

(image lost)

20. Release the outer latch spring and pull it off of the module.

Reassembly Note: The spring does NOT go into the notch on the latch lever. DO NOT mistakenly put it there during reassembly .
21. Remove the larger T20 screw and T8 from black latch assembly. Separate the black latch assembly from the white module. The wires
will stay connected, but you need the sections separate to open the module. Separating the sections is a bit of a puzzle, but they will come
apart. Take your time and don't force it.

After separating sections, remove all 7 module screws using a T10 driver.

22. When opening the module, take note of the switch positions and how it goes together. It is not complicated, but may take a couple tries
to line everything up properly before closing.

Your goal is to remove the main board containing the plug and motor. At this point you can plug the main board back into the door and test
for function again if you like (may appease your curiosity). If you tested negative previously, you may find the problem in the next few steps
or by simply testing again.
23. HERE IS THE PROBLEM. Where the plug seats into the board there is excess room behind the leads. The solder breaks away from the
board and fails to make solid contact to the board from the plug. This causes intermittent operation. Several connections were broken in this
module witch caused various failures (windows, locks, alarm). Your symptoms will depend on which contacts have broken.

In the image below you can see a hairline crack at the base of the solder joint.

24. Once you get here, it's an easy fix. Clean the protective coating from the joints and re-solder the connection. There is plenty of room on
this board and any novice DIY guy should be able to handle this solder job. Keep the joints small, don't overheat the board and everything
will be fine.
 25. Only three connections were bad on our module, but we opted to preventatively redo all 6 joints. Once your done fixing the joints, take
your board back to the door plug and test again. If the MFD displays correctly, reassemble your module and reverse the steps in this guide.

I hope this helped some of you and kept a few extra bucks in your pocket. I will try to update this if some suggestions are made or more
pictures are provided.

Thanks to AWD4416 for staying calm as we ventured into the unknown parts of his ride.
Thanks to ItsMeAgain for providing pictures on steps 18,19. This thread helped him down the path to resolving a different problem with
similar symptoms. His post can be found at http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=460296

Last edited by shovelhead84; 10-22-2017 at 09:24 PM.

PAST: 1970 Beetle | 1986 Golf 2.0 | 1996 Jetta 2.0 | 1998 318ic | 2002 Jetta VR6 | 2003 GTI VR6 | 2008 R32 VR6 | 2013 Passat TDI |
2013 Golf TDI | 2014 Beetle R-Line | 2015 Jetta 2.0 |
PRESENT: 2016 Golf R | 2016 X3 XD35i |

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DuB Ben 05-20-2012 10:44 AM #2

Member
Sticky this Good Job!

Join Date: Jan 8th, 2012

Location: FairFax,VA / South
Africa, Durban
Posts: 135
Vehicles: MKV .:R32 / Tiguan S

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Ripdubski 05-20-2012 11:17 AM #3

Member
Good job! Glad the dealer fixed my under warranty when it went out. Will keep this handy in case it occurs again.

Join Date: Aug 12th, 2004

Location: G-Vegas, SC
Posts: 2,270
Vehicles: 08 .:R32 DBP (RIP), 10
New Beetle HM

Thx!
Ripdubski
17 Beetle SEL Coupe SB, 08 .:R32 DBP (R.I.P.), 10 New Beetle 2.5 HM

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shovelhead84 05-20-2012 11:26 AM #4

Member
Thanks.

I just linked it in the MKV Golf / Jetta forum. Hopefully it will be useful to a few people. I was thinking about doing the same thing to my car
to prevent the issue, but I am more curious if it will actually go bad on it's own.

Join Date: Nov 26th, 2010 Guess I'll see on the next free weekend.
Location: Liberty Hill, Texas
Posts: 1,596
Vehicles: Euro or bust!

PAST: 1970 Beetle | 1986 Golf 2.0 | 1996 Jetta 2.0 | 1998 318ic | 2002 Jetta VR6 | 2003 GTI VR6 | 2008 R32 VR6 | 2013 Passat TDI |
2013 Golf TDI | 2014 Beetle R-Line | 2015 Jetta 2.0 |
PRESENT: 2016 Golf R | 2016 X3 XD35i |

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awd4416 05-20-2012 12:18 PM #5

Member
Dude awesome write up. I wish you would have posted this before I fixed my door

Also don't put the door together and forget something like the cable strain relief and have to take the door apart again

Join Date: Jan 3rd, 2012

Location: Killeen, TX
Posts: 182
Vehicles: MK6 Jetta

VAG-Com/Micro-Can Owner
RIP '08 R32 #4416

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Mr_Peach 05-20-2012 12:22 PM #6

Member
Most excellent.

Thanks for the contribution.

Join Date: Sep 18th, 2007

Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 4,512
Vehicles: 2008 VW R32 :: 2000
MBZ ML55 AMG :: 2006 Mini Cooper S
:: 2003 Aprilia Atlantic 500 :: Yam.
Morphous

"If the car feels like it's on rails, you are probably driving too slowly." - Ross Bentley, Ultimate Speed Secrets

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petef 05-20-2012 12:30 PM #7

Member
Join Date: Nov 25th, 2010 Just plain awesome - thanks for taking the time to write this up.
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 336
Vehicles: 08 CW Track Monster

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shovelhead84 05-20-2012 12:44 PM #8

Member

Originally Posted by awd4416

Dude awesome write up. I wish you would have posted this before I fixed my door

Join Date: Nov 26th, 2010 Also don't put the door together and forget something like the cable strain relief and have to take the door apart again
Location: Liberty Hill, Texas
Posts: 1,596
Vehicles: Euro or bust!
Our mishaps are the communities gain.

We should do more of these.

PAST: 1970 Beetle | 1986 Golf 2.0 | 1996 Jetta 2.0 | 1998 318ic | 2002 Jetta VR6 | 2003 GTI VR6 | 2008 R32 VR6 | 2013 Passat TDI |
2013 Golf TDI | 2014 Beetle R-Line | 2015 Jetta 2.0 |
 PRESENT: 2016 Golf R | 2016 X3 XD35i |

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vdubnhead 05-20-2012 03:28 PM #9

Member
well done sir, well done.

subscribed for future reference.

your tool box has a six-pack too? nice.

Join Date: Dec 29th, 2010
Location: saline michigan
Posts: 463
Vehicles: 2008 .:R32

performanceleds.com

191,200+ miles - all of them mine

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Passssat24242424 05-20-2012 08:45 PM #10

Member
Its guys like this vortex needs more of.

Join Date: Jul 31st, 2007

Location: ANNAPOLIS
Posts: 693
Vehicles: MKV R3.2 CW/BMP

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AWPower 05-20-2012 09:20 PM #11

Member
Good write up. Im going to have to do this

Join Date: Apr 27th, 2005

Location: Atlanta
Posts: 3,735
Vehicles: VR6 Golf, 335i M sport

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LoyalSage 05-20-2012 11:10 PM #12

Member
Join Date: Oct 7th, 2008 OP,
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 1,420 Thank you very much for sharing this. Very well written, clean, clear. A great addition to the community
Vehicles: 2012 VW Golf-R - CW -
4 Door

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BetaOp9 05-23-2012 05:21 AM #13

Banned
Looked it over, from memory this is spot on and I don't see anything missing. As mentioned, the key thing to remember is to be super
careful with the door skin.

Can't wait to get my car back so I can do the inner door card removal DIY and the install guide for my 'Door Warning Light Retrofit Kit'.

Join Date: May 4th, 2006

Posts: 5,408
Vehicles: 2008 VW R32 [TR
#2392]

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fatdubs finally! 05-23-2012 10:54 AM #14

Awaiting Email Confirmation
this is awesome thanks for this great DIY im doing this, this weekend that module is really starting to annoy me especially since i used vag-
com

Join Date: Jul 12th, 2011

Posts: 56
Vehicles: 98' VR6 GTI R.I.P.

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skaven-R32 05-23-2012 09:04 PM #15

Member
Incredible.

As I get sporadic symptoms the replacement of this item has been on my mind, so your timing is fantastic.

For you:
Join Date: Jun 22nd, 2008
Location: Renton, WA
Posts: 1,370
Vehicles: MkV DBP R32 #462

Originally Posted by dubnick32

That guy shouldn't own an R32. I bet he goes out dancing at least twice a week.

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shovelhead84 05-24-2012 10:52 PM #16

Member
Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback on this and I am glad it can help some people out.

Originally Posted by BetaOp9

Looked it over, from memory this is spot on and I don't see anything missing. As mentioned, the key thing to remember is to
Join Date: Nov 26th, 2010
be super careful with the door skin.
Location: Liberty Hill, Texas
Posts: 1,596
Can't wait to get my car back so I can do the inner door card removal DIY and the install guide for my 'Door Warning Light
Vehicles: Euro or bust! Retrofit Kit'.

Good point. I should make a note about having a clean place to put the door skin before taking it off.

LINE ADDED: Also, be sure you have a safe and clean place to put your door panel once it has been removed.

Inner door card removal? I am curious. Gonna have to look that up.

Last edited by shovelhead84; 05-24-2012 at 10:55 PM.

PAST: 1970 Beetle | 1986 Golf 2.0 | 1996 Jetta 2.0 | 1998 318ic | 2002 Jetta VR6 | 2003 GTI VR6 | 2008 R32 VR6 | 2013 Passat TDI |
2013 Golf TDI | 2014 Beetle R-Line | 2015 Jetta 2.0 |
PRESENT: 2016 Golf R | 2016 X3 XD35i |

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milk4brains 05-25-2012 12:33 PM #17

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Join Date: Jan 1st, 2007

Location: RI
Posts: 1,316
Vehicles: 98 colorado red 1.8t
passat,2008 R32 #3800 CW (SOLD) :(

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Ronan1 05-25-2012 05:51 PM #18

Member
Join Date: Mar 5th, 2008 The rear passenger side door sometimes will not lock with the key. Could this be potentially the problem? It is intermittent....
Posts: 729
Vehicles: '17 Macan/'09 C4S/'16
S3

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skaven-R32 08-22-2012 07:30 PM #19

Member
Looks like some images are missing now. Any chances of them being restored, ShovelHead?

Join Date: Jun 22nd, 2008

Location: Renton, WA
Posts: 1,370
Vehicles: MkV DBP R32 #462

Originally Posted by dubnick32

That guy shouldn't own an R32. I bet he goes out dancing at least twice a week.

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BetaOp9 08-23-2012 05:10 AM #20

Banned

Originally Posted by skaven-R32

Looks like some images are missing now. Any chances of them being restored, ShovelHead?

Join Date: May 4th, 2006

Posts: 5,408 They're back up.
Vehicles: 2008 VW R32 [TR
#2392]
Same problem as the MKIV's. Not surprising that VW hasn't corrected the issue in design.

Excellent write up!

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skaven-R32 08-23-2012 02:06 PM #21

Member

Originally Posted by BetaOp9

They're back up.

Join Date: Jun 22nd, 2008

Location: Renton, WA
I still show about half missing, but it could be a work thing.
Posts: 1,370
Vehicles: MkV DBP R32 #462

Originally Posted by dubnick32

That guy shouldn't own an R32. I bet he goes out dancing at least twice a week.

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MJZman 08-23-2012 08:51 PM #22

Member
Join Date: May 14th, 2009 Just an FYI to everybody, the screw that secures the door lock cylinder is a T20, not a T15. Every MKV I have ever taken apart has been a
Posts: 290 T20. Nice write up though!
Vehicles: DBP 08 .:R32

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hartze11 Great Write-up, but I hit a dead-end... 09-16-2012 10:42 PM #23

n00b
Join Date: Sep 16th, 2012 Thanks for the write-up. Between this post, and a few others like it: http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/in...?topic=34343.0 I was able to
Posts: 1 get in and inspect my module.

The door sensor has been driving me nuts for the past several months, going on/off. Finally it got to the point where it always thought the
door was open. But, it toggled enough to usually keep the door ding alarm constantly ringing. Locking the car became difficult, and
infrequent.

So, this weekend I tore it apart. Unfortunately, all the solder joints were solid in my 2005.5 Jetta (driver's door). Upon further inspection,
the switch in the latching mechanism was the one that failed, and it was pretty much injection modled into the black plastic casing. Plus, I
would not have had access to this switch on a Sunday.

Since I didn't have another module on hand (I was hoping it was a cold solder joint, as indicated earlier) I simply cut the blue and orange
wires running from the while motor-module to the black lever module.

The result is the car "thinks" the door is always closed. But no more alarm, the door locks, etc. I can now drive in peace. I have not found a
logic condition which would either confuse the CPU or lock me out, so I think I'm good until I can get a new module. At least it is better than
before!

Thanks again for the write-up!

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shovelhead84 09-16-2012 10:48 PM #24

Member

Originally Posted by skaven-R32

I still show about half missing, but it could be a work thing.

Join Date: Nov 26th, 2010

Location: Liberty Hill, Texas
I haven't been on for a couple weeks, but everything appears to be up.
Posts: 1,596
Vehicles: Euro or bust!
Originally Posted by MJZman
Just an FYI to everybody, the screw that secures the door lock cylinder is a T20, not a T15. Every MKV I have ever taken
apart has been a T20. Nice write up though!

I'll double check & change that. Thanks for catching it.

Originally Posted by hartze11

Thanks for the write-up. Between this post, and a few others like it: http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/in...?topic=34343.0
I was able to get in and inspect my module.

So, this weekend I tore it apart. Unfortunately, all the solder joints were solid in my 2005.5 Jetta (driver's door). Upon further
inspection, the switch in the latching mechanism was the one that failed, and it was pretty much injection modled into the
black plastic casing. Plus, I would not have had access to this switch on a Sunday.

Since I didn't have another module on hand (I was hoping it was a cold solder joint, as indicated earlier) I simply cut the blue
and orange wires running from the while motor-module to the black lever module.

The result is the car "thinks" the door is always closed. But no more alarm, the door locks, etc. I can now drive in peace. I
have not found a logic condition which would either confuse the CPU or lock me out, so I think I'm good until I can get a new
module. At least it is better than before!

Thanks again for the write-up!

Good info. I am sure your experience is going to help some other out there. Good luck getting that thing replaced.
 PAST: 1970 Beetle | 1986 Golf 2.0 | 1996 Jetta 2.0 | 1998 318ic | 2002 Jetta VR6 | 2003 GTI VR6 | 2008 R32 VR6 | 2013 Passat TDI |
2013 Golf TDI | 2014 Beetle R-Line | 2015 Jetta 2.0 |
PRESENT: 2016 Golf R | 2016 X3 XD35i |

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car195 10-12-2012 01:24 AM #25

n00b
This guide is awesome, thanks, just one note, when I separated the latch from the module I needed a Torx T8 to remove it, it was on the
side of the latch

Unfortunately my problem was the electric motor, it doesn't work in certain positions, the current is going thru the motor but is not moving,
I'm getting a new module tomorrow cuz it will be almost impossible to find a new motor here
Join Date: Oct 12th, 2012
Location: Monterrey, MX
Posts: 2
Vehicles: 2009 Audi A3 2.0T
Quattro

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