Eizzy Folding Table

Copyright © 2015 Thinkwoodworks.net

When I was a boy my father would repeatedly say, “ Always have a plan”. What
he meant was to be prepared and to know what the next step was to get the job
done. Before you get started look through the plans carefully have a good idea
about what the next step is and your build experience will hopefully be a fun one
and perhaps a learning experience as well. You are among the first to use what I
am calling “Interactive Plans”. They are not really interactive but its the best term
I could think of. The plans are broken down into sections, at the begining of each
section under the section title you will find the word SVID LINK. If at any time
you have questions or are having trouble with that section of the build pull up the
PDF on any web enable device, click the SVID LINK text and it will direct you to a
how to video for that section of the build. Please remember to alway practice safe
woodworking habits and have a plan.

This plan is for YOUR use only. Do not redistribute or sell this plan. Feel free to use
this plan to make as many tables as you want and sell the actual table for profit.
Thank you for purchasing this plan and Have Fun!

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Lets go shopping!
Material cost will vary depending on the supplier, type and quality of wood,
fasteners and hardware used, etc. I purchase all of my materials from Home
depot and the cost was just over $130.oo. I choose construction grade wood
for this project to help keep the costs down here is a details list of what you
will need. The materials are listed with standardized US measurements the
actual sizes of the material will be 3/4” think for 1 by and 1 1/2” think
for 2 by stock.

5 -
1” x 12” x 8’ pine boards or equivalent
1 -
2” x 12” x 8’ pine board or equivalent
1 -
24” x 24” x 1/2” Plywood
1 -
3/8” oak dowel 36” long
4 -
1/2” oak dowel 36” long
1 -
small box of 1 1/4” pokethole screws 100 count is enough
1 -
small box of spax 1 1/4” or other wood screw
8 -
1” wood pan head screws
8 -
small washers that have a Dia of 3/4” and interior hole the heads of
the pan head screws will not fit through.
1 - 48” piano hinge your choice color cut down to 10” sections and round
the rough corners.
1 - small bottle exterior wood glue.

Instructional Video Links

Introduction - click here
Table Frame - click here
Table Base - click here
Chair System - click here
Lift Housing - click here
Table Top - click here

Layout Drawing
The layout drawing (on the next page) is just to show that all parts can be
cut out of the material in the shopping list. It is not measured guide. When
using natural materials you may need to adjust for knots and defects in the
wood. Its always a good idea to get a little more then what you think your
going to need.
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Lets make some sawdust!
Starting a project and finishing a project are by far my 2 favorite parts
of any build. A couple of things to note about the plans before you jump
in. You will notice the hole sizes are not on the detail measurement of
each part i did this to avoid cluttering up the drawings. The holes for
the chair assembly, hinge blocks and lift housing are all 1/2” in dia. The
holes for the table top side wing hinges are all 3/8” dia.

Also there is an additional add on in the last section video that is not
in the plans. It is optional but worth taking a look at so if you don’t
watch any other videos be sure to check the last one out.

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 TABLE FRAME SECTION
SVID LINK

SIDE OVERVIEW - THE

SET BACK MEASURE-
MENTS FOR THE CENTER
STYLES ARE IMPORTANT.
THE CENTER DISTANCE
BETWEEN
THE STYLES ACTS AS
A GUIDE FOR THE LIFT
ARMS SO GET IT AS
CLOSE AS POSSIBLE.

EACH SIDE HAS 6 PARTS

- MAKE 4 OF EACH PART,
ENOUGH FOR 4 SIDES.
I USED POCKET HOLE JOIN
THE FRAME FOR ITS EASE
AND SPEED. WHILE THE
DRAWING SHOW THE CUT
OUT FOR THE TOP I LEFT
THE TOP RAIL WHOLE UN-
TIL THE SIDES WERE ALL
TOGETHER.

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 USING THE MEASURE-
MENTS CUT A 6” RADIUS
IN THE FIRST SIDE THEN
USE THAT SIDE AS A PAT-
TERN FOR THE OTHER 3
SIDES.

AFTER ALL THE SIDE

ARE MADE. BUTT LAP
THE LARGER RIGHT SIDE
STYLE TO THE SMALLER
LEFT SIDE AS SHOWN IN
THE IMAGE ON THE RIGHT.
I GLUED AND SCREWED
THIS JOINT FOR EXTRA
STRENGHT. DO THIS WITH
AL FOR SIDES.

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CUT 8 HINGE BLOCKS
FROM THE 2 BY 12 MA-
TERIAL. REMEMBER THE
THRU HOLES ARE 1/2” IN
DIA.
THESE PIECES WILL NEED
TO BE CUT DOWN TO A
THICKNESS OF 1 1/4”
SCREW AND GLUE HINGE
BLOCKS TO THE FRAME.
SEE NEXT IMAGE FOR LO-
CATION.

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 AFTER THE BLOCKS ARE
INSTALLED ADD A 3 1/2”
WIDE TRIM PIECE AROUND
THE BASE OF THE TABLE
FRAME. IN THE IMAGE TO
THE RIGHT YOU WILL SEE
THE TRIM EXTENDS OUT
PAST THE TABLE. I IN-
CLUDED THIS IMAGE FOR
THOSE OF YOU WHO WANT
TO ADD WHEELS. GO TO
TABLE SECTION SVID LINK
FOR MORE DETAILS.

WHEN THE TABLE FRAME

BASE TRIM IS INSTALLED.
THERE SHOULD BE A
CONSISTENT 1 1/4” RE-
VEAL AROUND THE BASE
OF THE FRAME. THE TRIM
SHOULD ALSO BE FLUSH
ON THE BOTTOM WITH
THE HINGE BLOCKS

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 TABLE BASE SECTION
SVID LINK

TABLE BASE OVERVIEW -

THE BASE OF THE TA-
BLE IS DESIGNED TO
SLIP OVER THE TOP OF
THE TABLE WHEN IT
IS CLOSED. SO TRY TO
KEEP THE TOLERA NCES
SMALL. THE BETTER THE
FIT THE LESS MOVEMENT
WHEN CLOSED.

EACH SIDE OF THE TABLE IS

MADE UP OF 4 PARTS. MAKE
4 OF EACH PART FOR THE 4
SIDES OF THE BASE. AGAIN I
USE POCKET HOLE JOINERY
TO JOIN EACH LEG TO THE
SKIRT. AT FIRST IT MAY NOT
FEEL STRONG ENOUGH BUT
AFTER THE SIDE ARE JOINED
THE LEGS BECOME VERY
STRONG.

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FASTEN EACH SIDE
OF THE BASE IN THE
SAME FASION AS
THE TABLE FRAME.
THE WIDE LEG IS
FASTENED TO THE
SMALLER LEG VIA
A BUTT LAP JOINT
WITH GLUE AND
SCREWS.

AFTER THE BASE IS AS-

SEMBLED BE SURE THAT
IT SLIDES OVER THE TA-
BLE FRAME. IF THE FIT IS
TO SNUG A LITTLE FUR-
NITURE WAX WILL HELP
IT SLIDE EASIER. NEXT
ADD TRIM AROUND THE
TOP EDGE OF THE TABLE
BASE AS SHOWN IN IMAGE
ON THE LEFT. USE GLUE
AND SCREWS FROM INSIDE
THE FRAME TO FASTEN IT
IN TO PLACE. PRE DRILL
HOLE TO AVOID SPLITTING
THE TRIM.

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AFTER THE TABLE BASE IS
ASSEMBLED ADD A 1 1/2”
PLYWOOD TOP TO IT. FAS-
TEN IT DOWN WITH WOOD
SCREWS. PRE-DRILLING
THE PLY WILL HELP AVOID
ANY BLOWOUTS. ROUTE
OR SAND A SMALL BEVEL
ON THE OUTSIDE EDGES
OF THE PLYWOOD TO HELP
IT FIT INTO THE BASE OF
THE TABLE FRAME A LIT-
TLE SMOOTHER.

CHAIR AND PARALLELOGRAM SECTION.

SVIDLINK

OVERVIEW - I HAVE SOME

HELPFUL TIPS IN THE SEC-
TION VIDEO OF THIS POR-
TION OF THE BUILD THAT
WILL HELP WITH MILLING
EACH PART, MAKING THE
ASSEMBLY EASIER.

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CUT 2 BLOCKS 1” X 2” X 3” WITH THE GRAIN DIRECTION PARAL-
LEL WITH THE 2” CUT AND GLUE THE TO EACH END OF THE CHAIR
ARM AS SHOWN IN ABOVE IMAGE. TO KNOCK THE SHARP EDGES OFF
ROUTE ALL CORNERS WITH A 3/8” ROUND OVER. THIS WILL ALSO
MAKE SURE THERE IS CLEARANCE AT THE FRONT OF THE ARM TO
CLEAR THE TABLE FRAME WHEN BEING OPENED OR CLOSED. I FOUND
IT EASIER TO DRILL THE THRU HOLES FOR THE HINGES LAST. MAKE
EIGHT CHAIR ARMS 4 TOP AND 4 BOTTOM ALL THE SAME.

EACH LIFT LEVER

IS CUT FROM THE
2 X 12. THE LARGE
ROUND OVER ON THE
BACK IS NOT IM-
PORTANT JUST CUT
A PROFILE YOU FIND
APPEALING. MAKE 4
LIFT ARM LEVERS.

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 THE LIFT ARM LEVERS ARE ATTACHED TO
THE UPPER ARM WITH GLUE AND SCREWS
FROM THE UNDER SIDE OF THE ARM. THIS
LAYOUT SHOWS THE LOCATION TO ATTACH
THEM. SEE SECTION VIDEO FOR INSTALLA-
TION DETAILS.

THE PURCHASED MATE-

RIAL IS NOT A TRUE 12
INCHES WIDE YOU WILL
NEED TO EDGED CLUE A
SMALL SCRAP OF MATE-
RIAL TO THE SECTIONS
CUT FOR THE SEAT TO
GET THE FULL DIA.
MAKE 4

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EACH LEG IS 2 1/2” WIDE AND 1 1/2” DEEP ALL THE ANGLE ARE
CUT AT 10 DEGREES. AFTER CUTTING THE MAIN LEG GLUE THE
WEDGE SHAPE PIECE AT THE TOP AND LET DRY. DRILL THE HINGE
PIN HOLES 1/2”DIA AND 1 1/4” DEEP. YOU WILL NEED TO DRILL A
PILOT HOLE FOR THE SCREWS THAT HOLD THE DOWEL IN PLACE SEE
DOWEL HINGE DETAIL FOR INFO.

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 CUT 4 SECTIONS OF DOW-
EL 5 1/2” FOR EACH OF
THE 4 CHAIR ASSEMBLIES.
EACH DOWEL WILL NEED TO
BE PINNED IN PLACE. AF-
TER COATING EACH DOWEL
WITH FURNITURE PASTE WAX
INSTALL THEM IN THERE
PROPER LOCATIONS AND PIN
THEM WITH WOOD SCREWS.
USE SCREWS TO PIN THEM
ONE BREAKS DOWN THE
ROAD IT WILL BE EASY TO
REPLACE.

LIFT HOUSING AND LINKAGE SECTION

SVID LINK

THE LIFT HOUSE IS CON-

NECTED TO THE CHAIR
ARM VIA THE LIFT LEVERS
AND LINKAGE IT IS IM-
PORTANT THAT THE LIFT
HOUSING FITS SNUG IN THE
TABLE FRAME ASSEMBLY.
SO KEEP IN MIND WHILE
IN A PERFECT WORLD
THE MEASUREMENTS IN
THIS DRAWING WOULD BE
RIGHT YOU MAY NEED TO
ADJUST THEM FOR A NICE
TIGHT FIT.

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 MAKE 4 IDENTICAL
LIFT HOUSING SIDE
PANELS. EACH PANEL
IS MADE FROM 3/4”
MATERIAL AND THE
SCREW HOLES ON THE
LEFT SIDE SHOULD
BE PRE DRILLED TO
AVOID SPLITTING THE
WOOD.

THE LIFT
HOUSING
CROSS BRACES
ARE IDENTI-
CAL EXCEPT
FOR THE HALF
LAP JOINT CUT
IN THE TOP
AND BOTTOM
CROSS BRACE.
THE THRU
HOLES ARE

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LIKE EVERYTHING
ELSE IN THIS BUILD
THE LIFT HOUSING IS
ASSEMBLED USING
BUTT LAP JOINERY.
THE CROSS BRACES
ARE INSTALLED IN
ON CENTER WITH HE
TOP OF THE BRACES
FLUSH TO THE TOP
OF THE LIFT HOUS-
ING. COUNTER SINK
ALL THE SCREWS SO
THEY ARE JUST BE-
LOW THE SURFACE
OF THE WOOD.

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THE LINK ARMS ARE
MADE FROM 3/4” MA-
TERIAL AND NEED TO
BE AS PRECISE AS POS-
SIBLE. THEY CONTROL
THE HEIGHT OF TE
OPEN TABLE. DRILL A
1/2”DIA THRU HOLE IN
THE CENTER AND 3/4’
IN FROM EACH END.

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 INSTALL THE
LINKAGE TO THE
LIFT HOUSING
WITH DOWELS
WASHERS ON
THE LINK SIDE.
PRE DRILL A PI-
LOT HOLE IN LINE
WITH THE DOW-
EL HOLES IN THE
BRACE AND PUSH
THE DOWEL IN
SNUG AND PIN
IT WITH A WOOD
SCREW TO HOLD
IT IN PLACE.

FOLDING TABLE TOP SECTION

SVID LINK

THE TABLE TOP HAS 13

PARTS. A CENTER, 4 CENTER
WINGS, 4 SIDE WINGS, AND
4 PIANO HINIGES CUT DOWN
FROM A 48” HINGE. THE CEN-
TER WING AND SIDE WING
ARE HINGES TOGETHER VIA
A WOOD HINGE SYSTEM AND
THE WING ASSEMLIES ARE
HINGED TO THE CENTER SEC-
TION OF THE TOP WITH THE
PIANO HINGES. THE TOP CEN-
TER IS FASTENED TO THE LIFT
HOUSING WITH SCREWS HID-
DEN BEHIND THE PIANO HING-
ES

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 TOP CENTER DETAIL-
YOU WILL NEED TO
EDGE GLUE A SEC-
TION OF MATERIAL TO
THE TOP TO GET THE
FULL 12” TOP.

CUT THE WING

COMPONENTS CON-
SECUTIVELY SO THE
END GRAIN MATCH-
ES THE WING IT IS
HINGE TO. MAKE 4
WING ASSEMBLIES.

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 DRILL 3/8” THRU HOLE
ON THE CENTER WING
AND 1” DEEP 3/8” DIA
HOLES ON THE SIDE WING.
THEN ROUND OVER THE
TOP EDGE WITH A 3/8”
ROUND OVER SO THEY
CLOSE SMOOTHLY WITH
OUT INTERFERENCE.

CUT 4 SECTION OF PIA-

NO HINGE 10” IN LENGTH
AND DE BUR THE CUTS
AND SOFTEN EDGES.

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 OVER ALL DIMEN-
SIONS WHEN TOP
IS ASSEMBLED.
SEE SVID LINK FOR
MORE INFO ON
ISTALLATION.

CONGRATS ON THE COMPLETION OF YOUR EIZZY

FOLDING TABLE!
I HAVE TRIED TO AVOID ANY ERRORS IN THE PLANS
BUT IF YOU HAPPEN TO COME ACROSS ONE I MISSED
PLEASE LET ME KNOW NY EMAILING ME @ IZZY-
SWAN@THINKWOODWORK.NET.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT!

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