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Generation 1-4 Taurus & Sable Platform (1986-2007)
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raise engine to remove y-pipe ?

cohentl
May 2, 2011 - #1

I found the below while searching for instructions on removing the y-pipe to change
the oil pan gasket on a 2001 Vulcan. Does the engine need to be raised per the
Alldata instructions? Vehicle: 2002 Ford Taurus V6-3.0L VIN U Removing &
Reinstalling the Dual converter Y-pipe (Haynes Repair Manual) Note: The exhaust
headpipe on these cars is a welded assembly of two catalytic converters and the
headpipes for both banks of the engine. The manufacturer calls it the “dual
converter Y-pipe,” or simply the Y- pipe. The Y-pipe assembly must be removed for
other service work, such as oil pan removal. Refer to Chapter 6 for more
information about the catalytic converters. 1. Raise the vehicle and support it on
jack stands. 2. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the four exhaust oxygen (02)
sensors. 02 sensors are installed upstream and downstream from both catalytic
converters. 3. Remove the 02 sensors from the headpipes as follows to get the Y-
pipe assembly out of the car: (a) On a Vulcan V6 engine, remove the upstream 02
sensors from each headpipe, just below each exhaust manifold; the downstream
sensors can stay in place. (b) On a Duratec V6 engine, remove all four 02 sensors.
4. Remove the nuts that secure the front and rear headpipes to the exhaust manifold
studs. 5. Remove the nuts and bolts from the catalytic converter brackets at the
transaxle. 6. Remove the nuts and bolts at the flange connection of the Y-pipe
assembly to the exhaust system flex tube. 7. Remove the Y-pipe assembly from the
car. You may want an assistant to help you because the pipe assembly is heavy and
awkward. 8. Install new gaskets at all exhaust system joints during reinstallation.
If the nuts and bolts are corroded, it's a good idea to replace them also. 9.
Install the rest of the parts in the reverse order of removal. Start the engine,
and check for exhaust leaks. Service and Repair: Dual Converter Y-Pipe (Alldata)
Removal 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the bolts and engine
roll restrictor. 3. Remove the bolt, ground strap, and nut. 4. Raise and support
the vehicle. 5. Remove the splash shield and the air deflector. 6. Disconnect the
Catalyst Monitor Sensor (CMS) electrical connectors. 7. Remove the nuts securing
the heat shield and position it out of the way. NOTE: Support the exhaust with
mechanic's wire. 8. Remove the nuts and disconnect the three-way catalytic
converter from the dual converter y-pipe. 9. Lower the vehicle. 10. Remove the nuts
and the bolt. 11. Using the special tools, raise the front of the engine. 12. Raise
the vehicle. 13. Remove the bolt. CAUTION: The sharp edges on the converter can cut
the CV joint boot. Make sure to protect the halfshaft boot with a suitable covering
before removing the converter assembly. Remove the dual Y-pipe converter assembly.
14. Remove the gaskets and, if necessary, the Catalyst Monitor Sensors (CMS);
discard the gaskets. Installation 1. Install the new gaskets and, if removed,
install the Catalyst Monitor Sensors (CMS). 2. Position the dual converter Y-pipe
and loosely start the front nuts and the rear bolt. 3. Tighten the bolt. 4. Lower
the vehicle. 5. Tighten the nuts. 6. Lower the engine and remove the special tools.
7. Tighten the bolt. 8. Install the engine roll restrictor and tighten the bolts.
9. Position the heat shield. Install the ground strap and tighten the bolt and nut.
10. Raise the vehicle. 11. Tighten the nuts. 12. Connect the three-way converter to
the dual converter Y-pipe, and tighten the nuts. 13. Connect the CMS electrical
connectors. 14. Install the splash shield and the air deflector, and tighten the
screws. 15. Lower the vehicle. 16. Connect the battery cable.
danhasenauer
May 2, 2011 - #2

If the car is high enough, you shouldn't need to. Check this out:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-solutions-common-problems-how-articles/102172-
thoughts-y-pipe-removal-vetran.html

rickpark
May 2, 2011 - #3

This weekend I dropped the oil pan as part of the larger project of replacing the
timing cover gasket. Member 00greenlx and I have been trading experiences
(actually, he has come up with the majority of good tips) and he mentioned that a
subscription service he has had a pointer to removing the oil pan without dropping
the Y-pipe. What you have to do is drain the oil (duh), remove the 02 sensor on
the Y-pipe leg closest to the pan. Then remove all the pan bolts. The pan will
drop down but can't be removed because the oil pump pickup is in a baffle inside
the oil pan. However, when you have the pan resting on the Y-pipe as far as it
will drop, look inside the driver side end. You will see the oil pump body and one
13mm headed bolt that mounts it to the underside of the block. Get a 3/8" 13mm
socket and a universal joint. Work the socket on to the oil pump and loosen the
bolt. You may have to do what I do and use a breaker bar since leverage is limited
by the u-joint and the angle you are working at. However, it will break loose and
then you can unscrew it for 1/2" or more. At that point, the pan will also drop
down to where it can be removed. Or, you can do what I do and unbolt the pump in
which case everything will come out. I will post pictures later this evening to
show what you'll see. My car is a California 2001 SES Vulcan. I'm not sure if the
Y-pipe is different than non Californian cars.

cohentl
May 2, 2011 - #4

rickpark, That's very interesting. I did a fair amount of searching earlier and
this is the first I've seen that idea. My car is from NY so it's probably that same
as yours. I look forward to the pictures, as I plan on attempting this on
Wednesday.

rickpark
May 3, 2011 - #5

to have access to some of the oil pan bolts (you would have figured that out).
There is also a stamped metal shield that the starter pinion projects through that
protects the flywheel, remove this as well (the starter bolts hold it at one end,
there is a 13mm bolt that holds it to the transmission at the other end). This is
the O2 sensor that must be removed (you can dry to drop the pan without removing
the O2 sensor. A club member reports it was not necessary when he dropped the pan
on his 2000 Vulcan. I found it gave me a little more space to work.) :  When you
have removed the starter and shield and the O2 sensor, remove all the pan bolts. It
will drop until it hits the Y-pipe. You should then be able to move it around until
you can see the oil pump body and the single bolt holding it on from the transaxle
end of the pan. This next picture shows how I maneuvered a 13mm socket with U-joint
(3/8" drive - 1/2" is too big, 1/4" may not give you enough leverage):  Loosen
the oil pump bolt until you can free the pan - or just do as I did and remove the
bolt completely which allows the pump to drop to the bottom of the pan. It is
easily reinstalled when you put the pan back. It also makes it easier to apply the
gasket to the block with weatherstrip adhesive and/or silicone. This picture shows
how much of the bolt needs to be unscrewed and how the pump will then drop. This
was taken after I removed the pan and before reinstalling - I just wanted to make
sure there would be no problem putting it back in. This picture was actually taken
as I was getting ready to put the pump and pan back on as you can tell by the new
gasket.  Here is the underside of the block after the pan removal. As you can
see, the Y-pipe is still in place. To the left, you can see where the oil pump
mounts and the two guide pins. When reinstalling the pump, you may need to turn the
hex-sided shaft and make sure it engages the drive gear when you insert it through
the hole that is just above the upper guide pin in this picture. You won't be able
to get it to fully engage the guide pins otherwise.  This is the oil pump and
the old gasket. The long black thing is the drive shaft which is hex-sided - like
an Allen key:  This is how the oil pump is positioned relative to the pan and
why you need to loosen it as the circular end of the pick-up tube is constrained by
that narrow channel. When you get ready to install the pan (after putting on your
new gasket and/or sealant), you will need to put it thusly in the pan, raise the
combo to the block and insert the pump drive shaft back from where it was removed.
You can then start the bolt and while holding the pump against the block, tighten
it. Make sure the guide pins are fully seated as this confirms that the drive shaft
is properly in place.  It was really a lot easier than this sounds - rest
assured it can be done!

sheila
online

May 3, 2011 - #6

^ I vote to sticky this!

SoNic67
May 3, 2011 - #7

Nice, I didn't think that will be enough space for the socket and U-Joint! One you
have the oil pump down, I would replace the whole assy, or at least the pick-up
screen and shaft. That shaft goes in the syncronizer (above).

rickpark
May 3, 2011 - #8

going through the trouble. Although now, if I have problems with the pump, it
won't be an ordeal to drop the pan to replace it - probably an hour's work. Good
point about why you need to replace the camshaft synchro at the first sign of
squeaking - lose the synchro and you probably will lose oil pressure.

xFarSidex
Jun 4, 2011 - #9

I don't know whether the 2004 Vulcan engine is different in some way because I
managed to get enough space to get the oil pump out but there seems to be a shield
of some sort up inside covering the crank that is blocking the pan from fully
dropping. Maybe I am doing something wrong I dunno. I'll see if I can get a
pictures so this may make more sense. Heres the picture.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/Spino183/IMG00029-20110604-1433.jpg

Bigdogg2830
Jun 4, 2011 - #10

looks like they added a part to the vulcan.

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