DRY WOOD ASH AS AN ORGANIC FERTILIZER

Science Investigatory Project

Higher Education Department
Sacred Heart College
Lucena City

In Partial Fulfillment of
The Requirements for Higher Education Department
Bachelor of Science in Nursing

Presented by:
Erl Driz
Julianne Jade Bacalla
Aira Maree E. Morales
Chrissa Mae Mayo
BSN1 A

2018
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page

Title Page ………………………………………………………….. i

CHAPTER I - THE PROBLEM AND ITS SETTING

Introduction …………………………………………………. 1

Statement of the Problem …………………………………. 2

Conceptual Framework…………………………………..... 3

Conceptual Paradigm…………………………………........ 4

Scope and Limitation ………………………………………. 4

Definition of Terms …………………………………………. 6

CHAPTER II - REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE

Related Literature ………………………………………… 5

Related Studies …………………………………………... 13

CHAPTER III - METHODOLOGY

Research Design ………………………………………… 25

Research Locale ………………………………………. 25

Research Instrument ……………………………………. 26

CHAPTER IV - RESULTS, ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION

Data Table ………………………………………………. 32

Analysis ……………..…………………………….……. 33

CHAPTER V - SUMMARY OF FINDINGS, CONCLUSIONS AND

RECOMMENDATIONS

Summary …….………………..……………………..….. 41

Finding …………………………………………………… 42

Conclusion ………………………………………………. 43

Recommendation ………………………………………. 44
Introduction
Nowadays Synthetic or commercial fertilizer are not safe for the plants and for
consumption of man due to its high level of toxicity. There are unknown chemicals that are
formed to threaten man’s health which turn, a high mortality among man. There is solution made
to reduce the use of synthetic fertilizers, scientist and researcher made it organic or use organic
admixture to the fertilizer commonly used by farmers. As an example of an organic admixture
wood ash is an excellent source of lime potassium for our garden. Since wood ash is drive from
plant material, it contains most of the 13 essential nutrients of the soil supply for the plant’s
growth. Where soil is acidic and low in potassium, wood ash is beneficial to most garden plant
except acid loving plant such as blueberries, rhododendrons and azaleas, wood ash will produce
salts if it gets wet. Salt may not cause problem but when you put large amount of ash, salt may
burn plant. Not all wood fertilizer are the same, if wood in the compost are made primarily in
hard wood like oak and maple, the nutrients and the mineral in the wood ash will be much
higher. Wood ash is also useful for pest control.
Here in the Philippines, especially in Sariaya, Quezon, where agriculture is one of the
main source of income and livelihood of most residents. They use fertilizer as one way to
provide them a safe and organic fertilizer, mixing of the wood ash as fertilizer will help them in
their crops. It is readily available and safe for the plants. If the farmers choose a fertilizer from
the market, the vegetable or the fruits that people will eat will also be contaminated by the
chemicals that have been applied to them but when we applied the wood ash, there is no
chemical that can contaminate the fruits and vegetables.
According to Wind Walker (2015) wood ash can prevent or removes fleas, tick and other
pests that can be found in plants. Wood ash can be used to help maintain a neutral condition, the
best environment to help microorganism break down organic materials. Ash also adds nutrients
to compost. If used judiciously, wood ash can be used to repel insect, slugs and snails, because it
draws water from invertebrates bodies. It may help the farmer to get a good quality fertilizer
from wood ash with no chemical needed.
Statement of the Problem

The study entitled “Effectiveness of Dry Wood Ash as an Organic Fertilizer” aims to
answer the following questions.

1. What are the characteristics of plants using dry wood ash and no fertilizer in terms of:
1.1. Number of Leaves
1.2. Length of Leaves
1.3. Width of the Leaves

2. Is there a significant difference in the plants characteristics between dry wood ash fertilizer
and no fertilizer?

3. What information material can be developed to inform the feasibility of dry wood ash?

Null Hypothesis

There is a significant difference between ordinary soil and soil with fertilizer made by dry
wood ash in terms of quality and efficiency. Dry wood ash is a home-made fertilizer. We can say
that all of the materials used are organic and chemical free. In that case we can say that the plant
we are planning to grow is purely organic and it will grow faster without using any chemicals.
Conceptual Framework

Produces
Nitrogen
Raises pH
Potassium
level in
Booster
plants

Contains Organic
Boron Dry Wood Pesticide
Ash as an
Organic
Fertilizer

Contains Contains
Calcium Salt

Contains Contains
Posphorus Potassium

Figure 1. Conceptual Framework of the Study

The researchers used a conceptual framework to provide the benefits of Dry Wood Ash
as an organic fertilizer. As shown in Figure 1, Dry wood ash as an organic fertilizer has
numerous benefits such as nitrogen producer for nurturing the roots and the fruits of the plant;
potassium booster to help them flower; an organic pesticide to prevent pests from going to the
plant; salt for melting ice hassle-free on icy weathers; potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and
boron that plants need to grow healthy and strong.
Research Paradigm

INPUT PROCESS OUTPUT

 Characteristics of  Planting of pechay  Awareness on the

the plants in terms seeds in ten black effectiveness of Dry
of: bags with five of it Wood Ash as an
1. Length with dry wood ash organic fertilizer
2. Number of as an organic through an
leaves fertilizer and the informative graph
3. Size of the other five without (infograph)
leaves any fertilizer
‘  Significant  Observation of the
difference in the growth of each
plant’s pechay plant
characteristics with  Recording of
dry wood ash and observations
without fertilizer  Analyzing of data
gathered

Figure 2. Research Paradigm of the Investigatory Project

The researchers used input-process-output (IPO) approach in presenting the flow of the
study. As illustrated in Figure 2, the input of the study is to know the significant characteristics of
the plants with an admixture of dry wood ash fertilizer and soil, and the plants without any
fertilizer applied; the process dealt with the planting of the pechay seeds; the recording of the
observation; and findings regarding the plants growth. As a result, the study will produce an
informative graph to provide awareness on the effectiveness of the dry wood ash as an organic
fertilizer to use in vegetable crops such as pechay.

Scope and Limitation

The study focuses on the effectiveness of Dry Wood Ash as an Organic Fertilizer that
will be tested on five of ten black bags with pechay seeds planted in it. This study is for all
individuals that are engaged in planting, such as farmers and gardeners living in Sariaya,
Quezon.
 The researchers limits the benefits of the study to people living in Sariaya, Quezon only
from the reason that every place has different types of soil and most of Sariaya, Quezon has the
same types of soil that can be found within that place.

CHAPTER II

REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE

Introduction

This chapter deals with the review of the related literature and studies which are closely

related to the researcher problem. Several concepts are excerpted from books, magazines,

journals, and internet.

Related Literature

What is wood ash? According to the University of Georgia, wood was burned in the

United States in the 1700s through the early 1900s to produce ash for chemical extraction. The

ash was used mainly to produce potash for fertilizer and alkali for industry. As other potash

production technologies became more economical, the value of wood ash as a raw material

dropped. Recently, ash has been considered a waste product instead of a resource, because few

industries have taken advantage of its beneficial properties. Approximately 3 million tons of

wood ash is produced annually in the United States. While approximately 80 percent of all ash is

land applied in the Northeast United States, less than 10 percent is land applied in the Southeast.

The other 90 percent in the Southeast is landfilled. Several alternative uses for wood ash have

been developed. Land application is one of the best, because nutrients taken from the land

during harvest are recycled back to the land. In a survey of more than 80 Southeastern paper

mills, 60 percent of the respondents reported interest in land application of wood ash.
 Wood ash is the inorganic and organic residue remaining after combustion of wood or

unbleached wood fiber. The physical and chemical properties of wood ash vary significantly

depending on many factors. Hardwoods usually produce more ash than softwoods, and the bark

and leaves generally produce more ash than the inner woody parts of the tree. On average, the

burning of wood results in 6 to 10 percent ashes. When ash is produced in industrial combustion

systems, the temperature of combustion, cleanliness of the fuel wood, the collection location, and

the process can also have profound effects on the nature of the ash material. Therefore, wood ash

composition can vary depending on geographical location and industrial processes. This makes

testing the ash extremely important. Calcium is the most abundant element in wood ash and

gives ash properties similar to agricultural lime. Ash is also a good source of potassium,

phosphorus, and magnesium. In terms of commercial fertilizer, average wood ash would be

about 0-1-3 (N-P-K). In addition to these macro-nutrients, wood ash is a good source of many

micronutrients needed in trace amounts for adequate plant growth. Wood ash contains few

elements that pose environmental problems. Heavy metal concentrations are typically low.

As stated by Helen Gazeley of Grow Veg, wood ash (as opposed to coal ash) can be a

great addition to the garden. It contains potassium and it is a vital nutrient for crops. Just as it

does in humans, potassium regulates plants’ water balance (so tissue is firm and juicy), and has a

part in transporting food within the plant and creating sugars and starches. Without enough,

vegetables are more vulnerable to drought, frost, pests and diseases. Adding ash to the compost

heap, where they’ll aid fertility (most of the nutrients needed by plants are contained in them to

some degree). If you have a lot, don’t add them all at once as they are alkaline and raising the pH

too much will affect the bacteria and worms at work. It’s better to keep the ash in a nearby

container and sprinkle on a layer every so often. If you tend to compost a lot of acidic material,
such as fruit waste, the ashes will help to keep the compost at a lower pH and reduce the need to

lime the vegetable plots at a later date.

Hardwoods generally produce more ash and contain more nutrients than softwood. According to

the very thorough information from Oregon State University Extension Service, ash from a cord

of oak will provide enough potassium for a garden 60 x 70 feet, whereas a cord of Douglas Fir

will be sufficient for a garden 30 x 30 feet, while both will raise the soil pH slightly. Bonfire ash

is even more variable, because of the mix of plant tissue. Like the potash content, the calcium

carbonate content will also vary (although it’s unlikely to contain more than half that of ground

limestone), so it’s a good idea to test the pH of your soil before adding the ash and three to six

months after, to check on its effect. It wouldn’t hurt to check up on the potassium content while

you’re at it. There’s no point in adding potash to a soil that’s already high in potassium, as too

much can affect the plants’ take-up of other nutrients. Being alkaline, wood ash obviously isn’t

an ideal addition if your soil already has a pH of 7.5 or greater. There’s no point in spreading it

around acid-loving plants such as blueberries. Nor is it recommended for areas where you intend

to grow potatoes (much though they enjoy potassium) as increased alkalinity can encourage the

fungus, potato scab. Keep ash dry before use. Test your soil before spreading large amounts

around. Use it in particular around root vegetables, peas and beans, apple trees and soft fruit

bushes.

According to tipnut.com, considering saving the ashes from summer’s campfires,

backyard fire pits and even your home’s fireplace or wood stove, they can be spread throughout

the garden to act as an organic soil booster. They’ll also deter pests too. Wood ashes contain

potassium, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium which encourage strong root and stem growth.

Its main benefit as a garden pick-me-up though is that it increases the soil’s alkalinity (which
you’ll want if it’s acidic). It’s considered a substitute for garden lime since they both sweeten

soil, though keep in mind that the ashes will produce results faster since they’re more water

soluble. Don’t use if soil is alkaline, test first if you’re unsure. Sprinkling them on top of tilled

dirt then take a rake and mix in evenly, make sure to break down any clumps since a heavy

concentration will result in a potentially harmful salt spot once it gets wet. Apply when the dirt is

dry, it’s not windy and at least 3 weeks before planting to give it a chance to work its magic (and

not be too strong for seedlings). If you’ve already planted, you can still take advantage of it by

simply side-dressing around growing plants. Bugs such as garden slugs and snails aren’t fond of

scraping their bellies across the ashes so they’ll move on to find friendlier ground. To be

effective you’ll need to spread a fresh batch around plants after each rain, just a lightly sprinkled

layer will do (a light layer also won’t sway the pH level that much so you can use it without too

much concern). They are pretty strong at first and can burn a plant’s leaves if it comes in contact

with them, rinse plants well after dressing. Don’t sprinkle too close to young plants since they’re

more sensitive to direct contact. You can also add them to the compost pile, this helps reduce

odors and increase the rate of decomposition (not too heavy, just a light layer will do). Do not

use any that came from wood that had a chemical preservative applied and only use if produced

from wood fires that have not included other items (since they may contain traces of harmful

materials for the dirt or plants). This is a substitute for lime which means it decreases a soil’s

acidity. Don’t use around acid loving plants (such as blueberries). Those from hardwoods

contain more nutrients than found in softwoods. Also those from young wood contain more

nutrients than those from older wood. Wear eye protection, a mask and gloves when handling

since it can be harmful if you breathe it in or gets in your eyes. Keep tightly sealed in a container

so they stay dry until needed again for your plants.

 As stated by Jonna Wiklund, A field experiment was conducted in Kisii county,

southwestern Kenya from February to May 2017. The purpose of the study was to examine the

effect of wood ash on soil pH, soil nutrient content and productivity of common bean and

compare it to effects from mineral fertilizer (Diammonium phosphate, DAP) application and

liming using calcium carbonate, CaCO3. Two weeding approaches with different timings were

also included in the study. The experiment was two-factorial with six fertilizer/lime treatments

(recommended dose of mineral fertilizer, mineral fertilizer dose used by farmers, mineral

fertilizer dose used by farmers with lime, lime only, wood ash and a control where no

amendments were made) and two weeding treatments (early and farmers practice) replicated four

times. Soil samples were collected before experiment establishment and four weeks after the

experiment was established. Data was taken on soil pH, available P, exchangeable base cation

content, CEC and BS. Parameters for plant growth and development recorded were emergence,

days to developmental stage V4 and R1, number of flowers and pods, bean yield and plant

biomass. This was collected throughout the growing season. Data were analyzed using ANOVA

and Spearman’s correlation coefficient. The soil pH after treatments was found to be

significantly higher in the ash treatment compared to the control and the treatments where only

mineral fertilizer and no lime were applied. Lime application had no significant effect on the soil

pH. However, base saturation was higher in the treatments where lime was applied than in the

other treatments. No significant effects by the different treatments were recorded on available P

or exchangeable base cations. The number of flowers and pods per plant was higher in plots

treated with ash than in those treated with lime. The harvested plant biomass was lower in the

lime treatment than in the other treatments. No significant differences were found in bean yield.

Plant performance did not differ between weeding treatments, nor were there any significant
interactions between fertilizer/lime treatment and weeding approach. There are also indications

that wood ash can provide other nutrients to meet the requirement of beans when grown under

these conditions. Studies performed over a longer period of time would be required to see long

term effects on soil pH, nutrient status and plant performance.

According to a website gardeningknowhow.com, wood ash is an excellent source of

lime and potassium for your garden. Not only that, using ashes in the garden also provides many

of the trace elements that plants need to thrive. Not all wood ash fertilizers are the same. If the

fireplace ashes in your compost are made primarily from hardwoods, like oak and maple, the

nutrients and minerals in your wood ash will be much higher. If the fireplace ashes in your

compost are made mostly by burning softwoods like pine or firs, there will be fewer nutrients

and minerals in the ash. Wood ash is also useful for pest control. The salt in the wood ash will

kill bothersome pests like snails, slugs and some kinds of soft bodied invertebrates. To use wood

ash for pest control, simply sprinkle it around the base of plants being attacked by soft bodied

pests. If the ash gets wet, you’ll need to refresh the wood ashes as the water will leach away the

salt that makes wood ashes an effective pest control. Another use for ashes in the garden is to

change the pH of the soil. Wood ashes will raise the pH and lower the acid in soil. Because of

this, you should also be careful not to use wood ashes as fertilizer on acid loving plants like

azaleas, gardenias and blueberries.

As stated by the Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, University of

California, there has been considerable talk lately of recycling yard pruning and clippings as

mulches and composts. Another source of recyclable materials is the ash from the fireplace or

barbecue. At one time wood ashes were a chief source of potassium and much used in farming

and horticulture. While not an important fertilizer anymore, gardeners with a supply of ashes
often want to know if they would be useful as a fertilizer or soil amendment. The answer is yes,

if used appropriately. The benefits derived from ashes depend on your soil and the rate at which

the ashes are applied. Generally, ashes contain potassium, a major plant nutrient plus a number

of minor nutrients. Wood ashes contain all the mineral elements that were in the wood, except

for nitrogen and sulfur which are lost through the burning process. Potassium, calcium and

magnesium carbonate or oxides are present in comparatively large amounts giving the ashes a

strongly alkaline reaction which can neutralize acid soils. However in soils that are already

alkaline, high application rates can be harmful. A further compounding problem is that about 80

to 90 percent of the minerals in wood ashes are water-soluble, so that high application rates can

cause salts to build up in soils, resulting in plant injury. As a plant food, ashes contain 5 to 7

percent potassium and 11/2 to 2 percent phosphorous. They also have 25 to 50 percent calcium

compounds. Hardwood (e.g. oak) ashes contain more potassium than those from softwoods (e.g.

pine). If left out in the rain, because these nutrients are water-soluble, the ashes will lose their

nutritive value. The less soluble carbonates which cause alkalinity will remain longer.

An average application is 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, scattered on a freshly tilled

soil and raked in. For a pre-plant treatment, it is best to apply ashes 3 or 4 weeks in advance of

planting. They also can be side dressed around growing plants or used as mulch. A ring of ashes

around a plant may ward off snails and slugs because the ashes are irritating to them. In order to

avoid problems of excess salinity or alkalinity, the applications should be limited to once per

year. Avoid contact between freshly spread ashes and germinating seeds or new plant roots by

spreading ashes a few inches away from plants. Ashes that settle on foliage can cause burning.

Prevent this by thoroughly rinsing plants after applying ashes. Because they are alkaline, avoid

using ashes around azaleas, camellias and other acid-loving plants. Ashes contain very little
nitrogen, so your plant's need for this element must be met by other sources in a regular fertilizer

schedule.

CHAPTER III

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
This chapter intends to know how and what are the processes used by the researchers in
conducting this study and collecting the necessary data in completing the investigatory project.
This chapter contains the research design, research locale and research instrument used in the
study.

Research Design

The research employed applied and experimental method as its blue print to come up
with the specific and concrete evidences concerning on the study of dry wood ash as an
admixture for organic fertilizer in Sariaya, Quezon. It involves description, recording, analysis,
and interpretation of the cause and effect of the dry wood ash in the plant’s growth.

Research Locale

The researcher decided to choose Sariaya, Quezon as the location of the study. It has
many agricultural lands that are rich in nutrients and the weather is suitable for growing crops
such as pechay.

Research Instrument

The researcher used observations to describe, record, analyze and interpret the pechay’s
changes in terms of the number of leaves, length of the largest leaf, and width of the largest leaf.
The researcher also gathered some data from the articles in the internet.
 CHAPTER IV

PRESENTATION, ANALYSIS, AND INTERPRETATION OF DATA

Table 1: First Batch of Pechay Plants with Dry Wood Ash as Fertilizer

Plant Number Number of leaves Length of the largest leaf Width of the largest leaf
A1 5 3cm 2.3cm
A2 5 1cm 1.2cm
A3 5 3cm 2cm
A4 6 2.3cm 2cm
A5 4 1cm 1cm

Table 1 shows the observations on the batch of pechay seeds with dry wood ash as

fertilizer. From a total of 5 pechay seedlings, the number of leaves, the length of the largest leaf

and the width of the largest leaf are determined.

Table 2. Second Batch of Pechay Plants without Dry Wood Ash Fertilizer

Plant Number Number of leaves Length of the largest leaf Width of the largest leaf
B1 6 3.3cm 2cm
B2 6 3cm 1.5cm
B3 6 2cm 1.2cm
B4 4 2cm 1.5cm
B5 6 2cm 3cm
 Table 2 shows the observations on the batch of pechay seeds without dry wood ash

fertilizer. From a total of 5 pechay seedlings, the number of leaves, the length of the largest leaf

and the width of the largest leaf are determined.

CHAPTER V

SUMMARY OF FINDINGS, CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

After analyzing the data gathered, the following were the significant findings and
recommendations. This rendered the entire study to be more comprehensible, understandable and
justifiable with regards to the concerns of individuals, readers and future researchers.

Summary
This study was conducted to determine the effectiveness of using dry wood ash as an
organic alternative fertilizer instead of using harsh chemical-based fertilizers that may damage
the plant and its fruits, and may harm living organisms depending on it.

Findings
Based on the study conducted by the researchers, the following findings are hereby
presented:
The result of the observation on pechay seedlings in terms of the number of leaves, there
are significant difference between the batch of seedlings with dry wood ash fertilizer and the
batch without, there were more leaves on the batch that does not use dry wood fertilizer, while
there are less leaves in the other batch of pechay plants with dry wood ash fertilizer; in terms of
size of the largest leaf, observed by length and width, the batch with dry wood ash has the least
total length and total width, while the batch without dry wood ash has the most total length and
total width.
Conclusions
Based on the findings, the following conclusions were derived: dry wood ash as an
organic fertilizer, although it may seem viable due to lesser cost than commercial fertilizer, is
ineffective for growing pechay seedlings. Using loam soil without fertilizer is more effective
than using soil mixed with dry wood ash.

Recommendations
Through the findings and conclusions of this research, the researchers recommend the
following:
Given that the use of dry wood ash as an organic fertilizer is ineffective for fertilizing
pechay plant, it does not mean that it cannot be used as a fertilizer for other plants;
Considering the quality of the soil and the location of the plant, it is recommended to use
loam soil when mixing the fertilizer. The plant should have adequate water and enough sunlight;
As for future research, factors concerning location and soil on which the seedlings are to
be planted on, must also be emphasized as this poses one of the major factors of plant growth.