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COMO FAZER UM BABY SLING

Publicado 05/07/2009 19:09:00 de Laboratório de Ideias... [visitar o site]

Para as mamã que gostam tanto de artesanato como eu. Ou para aquelas que gostavam de ter um sling, mas que os
acham muito caros. Aqui fica como fazerem voçês o vosso próprio sling.

Material:
2,25 a 2,5 metros de tecido
2 argolas de metal ou nylon (bem resistentes)

Atenção: O indicado são tecidos 100% algodão como tricoline, pois alguns bebés possuem alergia a tecidos.
Argolas tem que ser de nylon injectado ou inox, outro metal pode ser tóxico, argolas não podem conter emendas, não
podem ser finas ou chapadas... se a argola for muito fina pode partir, podendo causar danos ao bebe.

Considerações em relação ao tecido:


Largura: o tecido deverá ter uma largura de 0,90 - 1,14 m, essa variação existe em função de pessoas que tem
ombros mais largos, assim fica mais confortável.

Padrão: quando se usa o sling, ambos os lados do tecido serão exibidos, portanto, procure um que não tenha um
avesso feio. Outra opção que já vi em algumas imagens na internet é costurar dois tecidos, um na parte de dentro e
outro do lado de fora.

Tipo: o tecido poderá ser de algodão ou uma composição algodão/poliéster.


No caso de argolas de metais, procure argolas de boa qualidade para não manchar o tecido. A máquina de costura
deverá ser capaz de costurar através de várias camadas.
Comprimento: Com 2,25 m de tecido faz-se um sling de tamanho médio, se a mamã for alta recomenda-se 2,50 m

Procure dar um acabamento em uma das bordas que será a ponta do seu sling, a que não terá a argola costurada.

Na outra ponta faça pregas de 10 a 15 cm, não precisa fazer as pregas em todo o comprimento, estabeleça 25 a 30 cm
a partir do topo, será o suficiente, costure esse comprimento, com ponto ziguezague, lembre-se que é necessário
apanhar bem todas as dobras.
Coloque as argolas através da parte pregueada, dobre o tecido e faça a costura, mas na parte em que a figura chama
de Panel 1 (que é a última dobra/prega), não deve ser costurada junta, nessa parte a máquina deve utilizar uma
agulha bem resistente, pois deverá costurar tudo, com excessão da última dobra (Panel 1), levante-a nesse momento.
É recomendável que se faça duas linhas de costuras.

Uma dica de aproveitamento é criar um bolso na ponta do seu sling, assim tem mais uma utilidade.

Agora mãos á obra!

Fonte:http://www.mayawrap.com/n_sewSling.php

Materials needed:

 Fabric:
o 1 to 1.25 OR 2 to 2.5 yards of 54-60" wide fabric
(depending on how long you want the sling), or 2 - 2.5
yards of 36-45" fabric. (I will use 2.5 yards in the
remainder of the instructions, but if you are smaller or
want a shorter tail, 2.25 yards is ample. Check the size
chart for the slings I sell for fur ther detail.)
o See the Fabric FAQ for specific fabric recommendations
and online sources.
o Keep in mind that the "wrong" side of a fabric with a
right and wrong side will show in the tail of the sling,
unless you twist the fabric in the rings (which will make
it harder to adjust). It's best to use a fabric that doesn't have a wrong
side, but if you do, you can dress up the wrong side by cutting it
longer than usual and folding the other side up, like an accent. the
sling at right has a right side and a wrong side; in order to dress up the
wrong side (which is showing in the tail), I've added a pocket to the
tail, as well as folding a 1" section of the hem up on the tail.
 Rings:
o Two rings made for making baby slings
o See the new Rings section in my Fabric FAQ
 Sewing machine and thread to match/contrast with the fabric. You could sew
this by hand, but unless you don't have a machine, I wouldn't recommend it!

For 56-60" wide fabric:

Instead of making just one sling, you can buy 2 to 2.5 yards of fabric, cut in
half down the foldline, and voila, you have two pieces of 30" wide fabric,
enough for two slings. You can then keep one to give as a gift to a new mom,
or have one for yourself and one for a spouse, or one to wear and the other to
wash (especially helpful in the early, poop-blowout-prone days).

I recommend buying the full length you'll need and cutting it in half
lengthwise to make two slings as above (or one sling with a 30" by 2 yard
piece for other projects). If you *absolutely* can't buy the full two yards, then
you can piece together a shorter length to make a sling. Just be aware that
any seam is a potential place for ripping, and make sure you sew it safely if
you have no other options but using a shorter piece.
For 45" wide fabric:
If you are using a bottomweight (see the Fabric FAQ for details), just cut 15"
off one edge and hem the sides (as in the directions below). You can use the
extra 15" strip to make a doll sling or some accessories to go with your sling.

If you are using a lightweight or calico fabric, try these directions! they make
a safer sling of a more useful width than the just folding it in half. If you have
only one length of 45" lightweight fabric, you can sew the edges together and
then "quilt" the layers for more strength. Do keep in mind that while you *can*
use a 22" wide sling, it's not great for smaller babies -- definitely not to be
used for a kangaroo carry, as that requires a much wider swath of fabric to be
secure. 22" is doable for a hip carry with an older baby or toddler, and a
cradle or tummy-to-tummy for a very small baby, but not great for much else.
(Please feel free to email me if this isn't clear enough!) If you have to make it
22" wide, I'd suggest using Corrine's "Adjustable pouch" directions instead, as
the built-in pouch seat makes it more secure with that width of fabric.
For either width of fabric...
Hemming:

Hem one short side and the cut edge -- you may hem the selvage, but as long
as the selvage is strong, it's okay if you don't. I use a 6mm hemming foot,
which works well with most fabric weights. Having the hem on the outside
makes it less likely to dig into you or your child when you're wearing it. I
really recommend using a hemming foot if you can get your hands on one (it
makes it so much faster and easier!) but if you can't find one, you can either
turn and press the hem, or do what I used to do, which is fold the hem, hold it
with your fingers while you sew through it; stop when you get to your fingers
(ouch!), refold about 10" below that, etc. It takes a lot longer that way than
with a hemming foot.

If you are using a 45" fabric, I would recommend this method. Or you can fold
it in half, put the printed sides together and sew around the edges, leaving a
space for turning. Turn it right-side-out and topstitch the edges, including the
gap used for turning.
Pleats:

* there are almost as many ways to fold a sling to put it through the rings as
there are people who sew them! Please don't feel that you need to use pleats
in your sling. Here's a page I just made with some folding variations -- many of
which are in use by other WAHMs who make slings. *

Here are some newly-revised step-by-step illustrated pleating directions.

Using this method, it's simplest to pin as you go, at least on the raw edge. Or,
from a suggestion by Deanna M., you can use tape to hold the pleats in place.
Masking tape, which comes off easily, would also be a sewing aid if you have
trouble sewing straight lines. I usually put pins at the very top of the pleated
section, and again at 5-6" down, then sew perpendicuarly across the pleats at
1/2" and 5-6" from the top, with a basting stitch that I can take out later, so it
looks neater. Questions? Check here.
Sewing in the rings: (click any image for a larger version)

You can see the pleats basted in Showing the zigzag I use to finish the raw
(stitching on the left and right is about 6" edge of the sling. I use a very wide, close
apart, because this sling will have the stitch (on my machine, the width is set to
thicker nylon SlingRings), and the 7 and the length to 1.2, although the
position of the needle and fabric in the numbers on your machine will probably
machine as I prepare to zigzag over the be different), so that the edge is
raw edge. completely enclosed with thread. This is
far easier to sew through than an edge
that's been turned under, and it keeps
the raw edge from fraying just as well.
Showing the "right" side of the pleats, Showing the "wrong" side of the
basted in and with the raw edge zigzag pleats, basted in and with the raw
finished -- all the folds appear to be the edge zigzag finished -- you can see
same width, although the back shows the first, large fold at the top, and
otherwise :) the subsequent pleats towards the
bottom.

First stitching line for sewing the two Finished -- back side. Between this
rings in -- note that I am sewing just to picture and the last, I have flipped the
the right of my basting stitches, and on sling over and sewn another stitching line
top of the zigzag stitch that keeps the about 1/2" from the first (from the "right"
raw edge from fraying. This is much side of the sling), then a line of
easier to sew through than folding the decorative stitching between the two. I
raw edge under (which works only with have also removed the inner line of
extremely thin fabrics) and is just as tidy basting stitches ( the ones that were
when in use. approx. 6" from the edge).
Finished -- "nice" side. You can see the
two lines of stitching with the decorative
stitch in the middle, and if I had a better
Optional: add a zippered patch pocket to
macro shot, you would also be able to
the tail of the sling.
see the holes left from the basting
stitches. (Those disappear when the sling
is washed.)

Threading your sling and babywearing:

I finally got around to adding illustrated directions on threading and wearing


your sling. Please check them out! If you have any questions, please email
me! To thread your sling, place the ring-end on your shoulder so that the rings
hang a little higher than your armpit. Reach around, take the other end,
making sure that the fabric doesn't twist, and bring it through both rings from
underneath. Now thread the fabric through the bottom ring. Adjust to fit.