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Application Highlights
• Intuitive and easy-to-use system;
• Allows creating, editing and customizing sewing patterns;
• Automatized patternmaking and grading;
• Seam, set thread direction, add pick stitches and auxiliary threads with speed
and precision;
• Convenient measure changing and comparison between patterns;
• Easy pattern grading.
Minimum Requirements:
Minimum configuration for using the software:
• Windows XP Professional SP3, Windows Vista Home Premium 32-bit;
• 2.0 GHz dual core processor;
• 1024 x 768 pixels resolution;
• SVGA video;
• 200 MB of free hard disk space;
• 2 GB of RAM;
• 17" monitor;
• CD-ROM drive;
• Keyboard and mouse with scroll;
• USB 2.0 port
Further Information:
Audaces Support
Phone: +55 48 2107 3777
E-mail: suporte.sistema@audaces.com.br
Options
Window
Allows you to
change the
windows
display mode.
1. Selecting Objects
Dragging patterns and elements is a common practice in patternmaking. To
accomplish this task you will need to select objects.
In this manual, we will refer to the set of patterns, elements and stitches used to
patternmaking and finishing as 'objects'.
4. Select several objects holding the "Shift" key or click on the desktop while
keeping the left mouse button pressed and drag over the objects you want to
select.
Tip: To remove the selection of only one element, click on it while pressing the "Shift" key.
2. Creating Lines
The Line tool is recommended for creating straight lines in the patterns and
auxiliary lines for pattern making. It is possible to use distances and coordinates for
accuracy in setting up the lines.
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Tip: Press the F7 key to keep the line exactly on the horizontal or vertical axis.
3. Creating Rectangles
Through the Rectangle tool, Audaces Pattern Advanced enables the creation of
rectangles and squares from two points.
Using the coordinates and distance for precision in objects facilitates the making
of cuffs, plackets and pockets.
4. Creating Curves
Curve
From the points indicated with the mouse, define the format and size of the curve as
needed.
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Tip: You can indicate consecutive points along the curve, requiring at least three (3) points
to form a curve. If only two points are indicated, the result will be a straight line.
Tip: To turn a curve into a line, change the number of points on the curve to two (2). The
same can be done with lines, turning them into curves. After changing the number of
points, use the Change tool to make a curve.
5. Positioning Points
By coordinate
Points are references for patternmaking. To make these markings, the By
coordinate tool is recommended. With this tool you can accurately enter points on the
desktop.
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By Intersection
With the By intersection tool, it is easy to enter points in the intersection of two
elements or of elements and patterns. You can also split the elements with this point in
three ways.
Split
By splitting the elements, you can manipulate them more easily. Below are the
options available for splitting the elements as needed:
None – Just insert the marking point in the intersection of the objects;
First – Inserts the point and splits the first selected element;
Both – Inserts a point and splits the two selected elements;
Place point
Placing points at the intersections of objects is helpful for the performance of the
following steps of patternmaking.
By enabling this option, the points entered are kept at the same proportion in
graded patterns.
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6. Creating Arcs
The By radius tool can be useful in making patterns such as godet skirts and some
types of flounces, as it creates arcs by the dimensions defined via the mouse or the values
entered through the Radius window.
Tip: If the Use radius option is disabled, the radius dimension will be determined via the
mouse.
7. Entering Texts
Entering texts
For communication or storage of information in the files you can enter text on the
desktop.
Text
Angle
Box for setting the angle for the text on the desktop.
You can set the size of the font for better visualization.
Reference
The reference is the position of the text relative to the mouse cursor.
Justification
In the justification option, three ways to align the text are presented:
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Editing Text
After entering the text, use the Edit text tool for changing its content.
The Edit text tool changes the text with a choice of position and properties.
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1. Pattern Production
Extract pattern
The Extract pattern tool streamlines the pattern making process. Through closed
outline and intersections of elements, the tool extracts patterns in automatic or manual
mode. The tool extracts patterns from both designed elements and already available
patterns.
Mode
Local intended for the selection of the method for extracting the patterns: Automatic
or Manual.
Automatic – With this option selected, the pattern will be extracted with just one
click. Indicate one of the elements in the sequence of elements for forming the pattern.
Manual – The pattern is created manually by selecting the element in the pattern
sequence.
Detect grading
When extracting a new pattern from an existing graded pattern, it is possible to copy
the base pattern grading at the time of extraction of a new pattern. Simply enable the
Detect grading option.
Detect mark
When extracting a new pattern from an existing graded pattern, notches and
markings inserted as notches will be already set. This requires, the option Detect mark to
be enabled.
The principle of the auxiliary lines is the same of the notches. When extracting a
new pattern from an existing one, markings can already exist as auxiliary lines. So that the
auxiliary lines be extracted with the new pattern, the Detect auxiliary lines option must be
enabled.
Join outlines
It is possible to extract more than one element outline for the formation of patterns.
The Join outlines option allows the tool to identify more than one outline over the design
or pattern, defining the new pattern from the composition of the outlines selected with the
mouse.
Note: This option is available only when the Automatic option is enabled.
When enabled, a new pattern is extracted from an existing pattern, considering the
auxiliary lines which outline the contour of the pattern. For proper operation of this option,
enable Detect auxiliary lines.
Enable Trim auxiliary lines to extract a new pattern detecting only the auxiliary line
segment that is located within the outlines of the pattern (if such segment has auxiliary
lines intersecting its outline). For proper operation of this option, enable Detect auxiliary
lines.
When enabled, extracts a new pattern detecting and transforming elements (lines,
curves etc.) into auxiliary lines. After the pattern is identified, the elements that will be
added as auxiliary lines to the new pattern have to be identified.
Automatic mode
1. Select the Extract pattern tool, Produce palette;
2. Note that the Choose outline type window opens;
3. Select Automatic Mode;
4. Enable the options you want to extract, for example: Detect mark and
Detect auxiliary lines;
5. Click inside the objects that will be part of the outline;
6. Position the pattern on the desktop;
7. Left-click with the mouse to confirm;
8. Right-click to cancel the tool.
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Manual Mode
1. Select the Extract pattern tool, Produce palette;
2. Note that the Choose outline type window opens;
3. Select Manual Mode;
4. Click the elements that make up the contour of the pattern;
5. After selecting the complete outline, right-click with the mouse
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Create Pattern
The Create pattern tool provides another method for extracting patterns in a
streamlined way. It is possible to extract patterns automatically or manually. However, this
tool detects only the outline which will result in the pattern, without the addition of
markings. If all the elements are not properly connected, you will not be able to create a
closed outline to form a pattern. So that all elements be properly connected, it is
extremely important to use the SNAP.
The Choose outline type window offers the following options for creating patterns:
Mode
Automatic – The pattern is created automatically when you select only one
outline element;
Manual - The pattern is created manually by selecting all the elements of the
outline of the pattern, one by one, necessarily in a clockwise direction.
Manual Mode
1. Select the Create or Edit tool, Produce palette;
2. Note that the Choose outline type window opens; select Manual Mode;
3. Click the elements that make up the contour of the pattern;
clockwise;
4. Confirm the operation by left-clicking with the mouse;
5. Note that after the operation is confirmed, the Pattern properties window
will open for entering the properties of the new pattern.
Thread direction
Inserts thread direction markings in the pattern, defining the direction in which the
piece will be fit into the fabric.
Mode
Mouse points – The thread direction of the pattern is determined by two points
indicated by the mouse;
Pattern points - Positions the thread direction according to two (2) control
points, internal notches or the outline of the indicated pattern;
By selection – Determines the thread direction with the aid of a line (element) or
thread from a predefined pattern;
Align pattern – Aligns the thread direction horizontally on the desktop, without
changing its position relative to the pattern;
Horizontal – Guides the thread direction horizontally, relative to the desktop;
Vertical – Guides the thread direction vertically, relative to the desktop;
Use angle
Rotate pattern
Rotate the pattern, maintaining the thread horizontally relative to the desktop.
Seam
With the Seam tool it is possible to insert seams along the entire perimeter of the
pattern or into parts of it. You can also enter the desired finish for each type of seam.
1. Select the Seam tool, Produce palette;
2. Note that the Seam window opens;
3. The Seam window offers the following options:
Mode
Tip: To use the Remove seam and Reverse seam options, the Keep base option must
be enabled when inserting the seam.
Keep base
Enable this function to keep the outline of the pattern with the projection of the seam
allowance.
Seam
Distance from the seam allowance relative to the pattern. Allows you to set different
values for each part of the pattern.
Position
Notch
Allows you to select, from among the options, which notch will indicate the seam.
This option is enabled only if Position - Select is selected.
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Position – Select
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Hem
The hem is added to the patterns as a finishing in certain pieces. You can use this
tool to determine its measurements. It is also called the edge.
1. Select the Hem tool, Produce palette;
2. Note that the Hem window opens with the following options:
No. of folds
This option is used for entering the number of folds that will be needed to make the
hem.
Width
Width 2
Entering a second hem width implies leaving it with a difference in the measurement
of the ends along the same hem perimeter.
Allows you to select the type of notch that will be used to indicate the folds.
Tip: By enabling the Width 2 option, the Width option is now called Width 1 to indicate
the width of the first end of the hem, while the second width indicates the second end of
the hem.
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Pattern Grading
After the base pattern is ready and the pilot piece is approved, the other sizes are
generated for the grid through enlargement and reduction of the base.
This section of the manual details how to use the Table tool for grading patterns of
different shapes.
Table
Grades the sizes of patterns through a table with the desired values for each size. If
the pattern does not have a predefined size grid, the application will display a warning. Set
the size grid of the pattern in the Pattern properties window.
1. Select the Table tool;
2. Indicate the pattern;
3. The Grading by table window will open;
4. The Grading by table window offers the following options:
Pont No.
Allows you to numerically select the control point or notch to be graded. You can
also select the point to be graded directly via the mouse.
DX/DY Tab
When you select this tab, the grading will be performed according to points in the
patterns.
Size
DX
In this column, you can set values for sizes in the "X" axis. (Make sure to follow the
Cartesian plane).
DY
In this column, you can set values for sizes in the "Y" axis. (Make sure to follow the
Cartesian plane).
Apply
Changes the grading value (X and Y) and displays the change in the pattern.
Applies the values set out in the column DX for the selected grading point.
DY
Applies the values set out in the column DY for the selected grading point.
Incremental
The field allows you to determine the value that will be entered in
columns DX and DY;
Use the buttons to apply the value entered in columns
DX and DY. It is possible to enter the value in the two columns simultaneously or one at a
time through the buttons
The set of arrows (up, down, left and right) with the number 0 (zero) in the center
grades a point by providing the value to be used. Arrows indicate to where the larger size
will be graded. The value entered will be placed in column DX or DY according to the
arrow key pressed, providing easy understanding of the process. Click 0 (zero) (in the
center) to reset the point grading.
Copy
Flip DX and DY
Reverses the DX and/or DY values of the indicated control points, turning positive
values negative and vice versa.
Paste
Pastes on the indicated point, in DX and DY, the values copied from another point.
By selecting this option, grading will be performed with angle values instead of
centimeters. The Grading by table window will change DX/DY names to Angle/Distance.
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Tip 1: You can select more than one field in the table alternately, pressing the CTRL key on your
Tip 2: To grade more than one point of the object at the same time, select the points you
wish to grade with the Shift key and then use Grading by table window.
Pont No.
Allows you to numerically select the notch to be graded. You can also select the
point to be graded directly via the mouse.
Reference
Sets the number of the control point nearest to the selected notch or allows you to
indicate the point, using the mouse, directly on the object.
Size
Perimeter
Incremental
When enabled, grades sizes relative to the previous size value. When disabled,
grades one of the sizes relative to the base size.
Apply
When triggered, applies the entered value for grading the notch.
= Perimeter
When entering a value in the field provided and pressing the button = Perimeter,
the same perimeter value is applied for all the notches.
Copy
Flip
Reverses the grading value from positive to negative and vice versa.
5. Select, using the table, or indicate, using the mouse, the notch to be graded;
6. Enter the grading value in the Perimeter Table and click Apply, or
7. Set a value to be applied to the notch and click =Perimeter;
8. Disable Incremental if necessary;
9. Note that message bar displays the next step for using
the tool;
10. Right-click to cancel the tool.
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Modify
Allows you to modify the position of element points, control points and curve points
of patterns.
1. Select the Modify tool;
2. The Modify window opens with the following options:
Mode
Discreet - Moves the selected point along with nearby points, without altering
adjacent curves.
Proportional – Moves points together and keeps the proportion, altering adjacent
curves.
No. points
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Parallel element
Creates an element parallel to another element at a specified distance.
1. Select the Parallel element tool;
2. The Parallel element window opens with the following options:
Parallel distance
Determines the distance between the parallel element and the indicated element.
When enabled, the parallel element will be transformed into an auxiliary line.
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Rotate
Rotates objects following the configuration set in the Rotate window.
1. Select the Rotate tool;
2. The Rotate window opens with the following options:
Mode
2 points – From an axis defined by the indicated point, rotates the pattern or
selected element using the mouse.
3 points – From the initial angle, defined by the dashed line, rotates the pattern or
selected element using the mouse.
Angle
When enabled, determines the angle at which the pattern or element should rotate.
With each click, the pattern or element will rotate based on the specified angle.
Make copy
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Copy
Copies elements and patterns freely or using reference points.
1. Select the Copy tool;
2. The Copy element window opens with the following options:
Choose reference
When copying an object, you can place it in another location on the desktop with the
help of the Choose reference option. When enabled, the option allows you to indicate the
point where the copied object will be "pasted".
Size
Copies the pattern with reference from some of the sizes in your grid. This option
can only be used when Choose reference is enabled and when the pattern to be copied
is graded.
When enabled, a pattern is copied over another one and the grading of the first
pattern is adjusted with respect to the grading of the second pattern.
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Add point
Adds control points to the pattern, which will serve to assist later in grading and
manipulating the patterns.
When enabled, the option allows the control points to be at the same distance with
respect to the defined grid sizes.
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Delete point
Deletes control points or curve points existing in the pattern and that are in the
wrong place or in excess.
1. Select the Delete point tool;
2. Indicate the pattern;
3. Indicate the point to be deleted;
4. Right-click to cancel the tool.
2. Checking Perimeters
Check
Checks measurements between the perimeters of the patterns. If there is a
difference between the perimeters, a point is added to the larger perimeter for
identification.
1. Select the Conference tool;
2. The Check patterns window opens with the following options:
Perimeter
Discount
Indicates how much the perimeter is to be reduced at the time of seaming. It is very
used for checking the fit of sleeves and flounces.
Indicates that the perimeter values of the fields Current and Difference will be
relative to Pattern 1 or Pattern 2.
Current
Indicates the perimeter where the point is located at the time of comparison
between the patterns. If you wish to establish a perimeter value, enable it and enter the
value.
Difference
Indicates the difference between the perimeters of the selected element in the
reference pattern and the Current one (Difference = Perimeter – Current).
Use seam
After indicating the pattern, the field Seam becomes available. It allows you to
specify the seaming value to be considered for checking measurements.
Mark notch
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Measure perimeter
When you need to measure a outline element of the pattern, use the Measure
perimeter tool.
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Perimeter
Displays the element or pattern perimeter in Audaces Pattern Advanced's message
bar.
Distance
Displays the distance from two specified points. SNAP can be used together with
this tool for higher accuracy.
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Save
You can save works that are finished or in progress at any time. Open and modified
files should also be saved.
1. Click the Main Menu;
2. Click Save;
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Scale
Percentage – 100% means the actual size of the pattern. Decrease this value to
reduce the pattern size proportionally.
Plotting area
All – Plots all patterns in the desktop on a single banner. That is, all patterns are
plotted on seamless paper.
Plotting stripes – in some situations the pattern may be larger than the width of the
plotter. When that happens it is necessary to divide the plotting of the pattern into two or
three stripes, requiring them to be joint together after wards.
Initial printing X – If after the plotting has been initiated the equipment runs out of
paper or stops for some reason, enter in this field the value from which the plotting should
resume. This option is helpful in such cases, as it is not necessary to restart plotting the
patterns from the beginning.
It is possible to define which pattern size you wish to plot according to the grading
performed.
Rearrange patterns – When enabled, it organizes the patterns of the selected size
according to the paper width, allowing plotting on a single stripe.
Plotter
List of plotters that can be selected for plotting. Select the plotter installed in your
computer.
Properties – Click this button to open the Plotter properties window, where some
settings can be adjusted.
Paper width – Enter the value of the paper width being used.
Quality – Select the plotting quality for the patterns.
Defines the communication path existing between the computer and the plotter.
Often the plotter path is the same as that used by the printer, but when the application is
being used on a network, you must set another output path for the plotter.
Plot to file
When this option is enabled you can generate a plotting file with the extension .plt.
This file can be opened by Audaces Ultraspool (plotter manager). This file must be saved
in a folder accessible by the plotter manager so that the file can be plotted.
Option for rotating the patterns and plotting them on a 90º angle.
Unfold patterns
You can unfold the patterns at the time of plotting. Before that, you need to mark the
fold of the patterns with the symmetry line.
Enables the use of the tools configured for HPGL plotter, when this is the plotter
selected for plotting.
Plots precisely the lines defined in the making of the patterns. Available lines
options in Home palette, Drawing group.
Print
You can print the patterns in parts via the Print option. This option is suitable for the
conference of small patterns or for joining together the printed sheets.
3. Note that the Print window opens with the following options:
Proportion
Paper size – Prints all patterns or only the selected ones on a single sheet. The
patterns shrink proportionally to fit on an A4 sheet.
Percentage – Enter in this field the percentage according to which you wish to print
the patterns. The closer to 100% the percentage entered in this field, the more sheets will
be needed to print the patterns, since they will be closer to the actual size.
Scale coefficients
Enlarges or reduces the X and Y values in the print file. Enter one (1) for the values of
X and Y to print the objects using the same dimensions existing on the desktop.
In colors
4. Click Preview to make sure you are happy with how the patterns are going to be
printed;
5. Click Print
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1. Pattern Making
This section details additional tools for aiding the pattern making in Audaces
Apparel Advanced-Patterns.
Modifying Lines
Extend line
With this tool selected you can extend or reduce a previously created line.
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This tool extends two lines until their ends join together. Excess portions will be
deleted automatically. This assists in the joining of segments during pattern making.
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Split curve
This tool splits the curve at the intersection of the selected element. It is very useful
during pattern making.
1. Select the Split curve tool, Building palette;
2. Indicate the curve;
3. Indicate the element that splits the curve;
4. Confirm the operation by left-clicking with the mouse and cancel by right-
clicking.
Use this tool to insert or configure a preset spiral or curve. It can also be used to
replace curves directly in the pattern.
Default curve
Lists the types of preset curves and spirals. These include: French curve, back
armhole, skirt side and neckline.
3. Determine the curve to be used in the Insert curve window as well as the
ends of the curve;
4. Select Reference 1 on the desktop;
5. Select Reference 2 on the desktop.
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Use this tool to insert a point exactly in the center of a previously created arc. This
is very useful in godet skirts patterns.
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By clicking twice on the desktop, you can create an arc and set its radius.
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With the Given three points tool you can create arcs from three specified points on
the desktop.
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Use the Tangent to the line or arc tool to create an arc using a reference element.
This tool can be used for pattern making.
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Use the Tangent to two lines tool to round existing corners of two joined lines or to
create an arc tangent to them. The type of finish will be determined according to the
selected options.
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Tip: By enabling the Round corners function, you can turn lines into curves according to
the angle defined by the radius, eliminating excesses.
2. Pattern Manipulation
In this step we shall discuss how to manipulate patterns and elements by copying,
rotating, mirroring and redefining measures.
Move
Copies elements and patterns freely or using reference points. It is very useful for
quickly moving patterns or elements.
Choose reference
When enabled, you must have a reference point for moving the selected objects.
Size
When enabled, the grid is moved taking as reference the selected point and the size
indicated in the Move elements window.
Move grading
When the Move grading option is enabled, the Size option is automatically
disabled, so that the grading of both is positioned relative to the same reference point.
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Mirror
This tool mirrors elements quickly, streamlining the work.
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Scale
Enlarges or reduces the element according to the scale factors X and Y.
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Decrement or Increment
By enabling these buttons, the changes will be applied to the element.
Redefine perimeter
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Mirror
The Mirror tool is often used for making asymmetric patterns. You can use it to keep
the shared parts unchanged, adjusting only the necessary points.
Mode
• Horizontal - mirrors the object using the X axis as a reference.
• Vertical - mirrors the object using the Y axis as a reference.
• Free - mirrors the object as indicated via the mouse.
Make copy
If enabled, makes a copy of the object by applying mirroring, keeping the object
used as the basis in the original location.
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Create fence
Use this tool to select an area that will be manipulated using the Move fence tool.
Move fence
Use this tool to move the elements within the selected area previously set with the
Create fence tool.
1. Select the tool (after setting the fence with the Create fence tool);
2. The Move fence window will open. Choose among the options: Control
points, Curve points, Internal notches and Auxiliary lines;
3. Select in this window the items that should move together with the fence. You
must select at least one of the options, as if no option is enabled, only the
fence will move without modifying the pattern arrangement;
4. Set the coordinates in the Coordinates window;
5. Click on the selected area;
6. Using the mouse, confirm the position where the fence should move the
selected elements together.
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Tip: By selecting the Remove fence tool, the previously defined fence will be disabled.
Use the Transform in elements tool to transform finished patterns back into
elements.
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Round or chamfer
The Round or chamfer (corners and bevels) tool is widely used for finishing
pockets.
Mode
• Round corners - turns sharp corners into rounded corners.
• Bevels - turns sharp corners into bevels.
Radius (cm)
By selecting Round corners, the Radius option is enabled, allowing the user to
define the radius that will be used for rounding the corner of the pattern.
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This tool allows replacing a segment of the pattern with a separate element or
copying a segment of the pattern to insert it into another pattern.
Action
• Change elements - replaces a pattern element with a separate element.
• Copy elements - copies the selected elements in the pattern.
Outline
This option is only available when the Change element option is enabled. The
difference between Automatic and Manual modes is that in Manual mode it is possible to
select the segments one by one.
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Marking patterns
Insert
Some pattern markings are made for sewing pockets in place or joining patterns at
Width (cm)
For certain types of notches, such as V and T, you must set the width.
Height (cm)
Sets the notch height.
Angle
Sets the notch angle.
Notch
Lists the types of notches for selection.
Reference
Control point that serves as a reference for positioning and grading notches.
Code
When enabled, inserts sequential codes into the patterns, which are then used for
connecting the patterns in the right marking position in Audaces Apparel Advanced-Marker,
using the Notch relationship function. It is used to facilitate fitting pieces that require the
alignment between stripes or prints even where the patterns are united, such as sides.
Outline notch
When enabled, inserts notches only around the contour of the pattern.
• Add control point - when enabled, inserts control points along the notches.
• Keep away in sizes - when enabled, inserts notches keeping the same distance to
the reference point in all grid sizes.
Dy (cm)
Defines a guideline that aids when you insert a notch into a specific location. This
option applies only to internal notches.
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Tip: Use the SNAP to achieve greater accuracy in positioning the notch in the pattern.
Multiple
Use the Multiple tool to insert multiple notches simultaneously around the contour
of the pattern or inside it.
Mode
• Points of the mouse - inserts notches across an extension set by the mouse,
following the settings for the number of notches or perimeter.
• Element - inserts notches from an element positioned on the patterns, following the
Width (cm)
Determines the notch width.
Height (cm)
Determines the notch height.
Angle
Sets the notch angle.
Notch
Lists the types of notches.
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Remove notch
Use this tool to remove individual notches or all the notches inside or around the
contour of the selected pattern. When neither option is enabled in the Delete window,
individual notches are removed by simply clicking on them.
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Align
Mode
• Horizontal - aligns notches horizontally, using as reference the notch base size;
• Vertical - aligns notches vertically, using as reference the notch base size;
• Element - aligns notches using as reference an element positioned on the pattern;
• Horizontal point - aligns notches horizontally, using as reference a control point;
• Vertical point - aligns notches vertically, using as reference a control point.
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Producing Patterns
Fold
Patterns can be made in half and then unfolded. This is the case of symmetrical
patterns.
Finished patterns can be folded for quickly checking their appearance.
Action
• Fold - folds the pattern according to the option selected in Fold mode;
• Unfold - unfolds the pattern at the outline of the selected segment;
Fold mode
• Horizontal - folds the pattern in half horizontally.
• Vertical - folds the pattern in half vertically.
• Element - folds the pattern relative to the selected element.
Keep fold
Enabling this option will fold the pattern as defined in Fold mode, but changes will
be made on only one side, displaying the original pattern marking in dotted lines.
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Tip: To modify only one side of the pattern, enable the option Keep fold. To modify both
sides, this option should be disabled.
Create dart
For adjusting the pieces, some darts can be created around the contour of the
patterns. Darts can be cut, open or just marked.
Opening (cm)
Sets the total opening of the dart at the side.
Depth (cm)
Open dart
Creates a dart with opening and adds this value to the pattern, compensating for the
opening. However, it does not cut the dart if the Cut dart option is not enabled.
Cut dart
When enabled, creates a cut dart and removes the inside of the dart from the
pattern without compensating for the opening.
Perpendicular vertex
Positions the vertex perpendicular to the contour of the pattern. In case this option
is not enabled, you can set the vertex angle.
Cut intersections
Creates a dart where the pivot point and the direction of the vertex for forming the
dart pass through two points of the pattern. This results in a fold in the first two points of
intersection.
Lateral notches
For selecting the format of the notches that indicate the start and end of the dart
around the contour.
Vertex notch
Lists types of notches indicating the dart vertex to be finished upon seaming.
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Internal dart
In order to make a piece with tighter and more appropriate fit it is usually necessary
to create or adjust internal darts in the patterns.
Height 1 (cm)
Sets the value that the dart will have in the first measurement, i.e. from the center to
the upper end.
Height 2 (cm)
Sets the value that the dart will have in the second measurement, i.e. from the
center to the lower end.
Width (cm)
Sets the dart width, calculating the value entered half to the right and half to the left.
Angle
Sets the angle of insertion of the dart into the pattern.
Auxiliary line
Inserts the dart by marking auxiliary lines that aid in visualization.
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Tip: To assist in positioning the dart you can use the SNAP and the Coordinates window.
Cut
It is often necessary to cut the pattern after it is made for adjustments or reusing
parts of the pattern. For this action you can use the Cut tool, which cuts the pattern using
elements as reference.
Keep distance
Applies to the control points that were created by cutting the same grading
difference of adjacent control points.
Seam (cm)
Sets the value in centimeters of the seam that will be applied to the cut pattern.
Seam 2 patterns
Applies the seam to the two patterns that were generated after the cut. You can only
enable this option if the previous option, Seam (cm), is enabled.
Notch
Lists the types of notches available to mark the seam.
Mode
Sets the type of seam finish to be applied. This option is enabled only when the
option Seam is enabled.
• Tangent - seam finish tangent to the contour of the pattern.
• Straight - seam finish at a right angle (90º) relative to the cutting element.
1. Insert an element (line, curve or arc) into the pattern so that it crosses the
pattern outline on two points;
2. Select the Cut tool, Produce palette;
3. The Cut pattern window will open;
4. Select the Contour type and enter the seaming values;
5. Indicate the pattern;
6. Indicate the element;
7. Confirm by indicating the cut direction and cancel.
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Tip: When cutting is done by elements other than lines, the seams generated must be
checked.
Join
The Join tool unites patterns which were made separately or otherwise cut. With
this tool you can also bring the patterns closer for simple conference.
Only move
This option allows bringing one pattern close to the other, as well as their
corresponding grading, in order to visually check the measurements between the patterns.
Join sizes
Repositions the pattern grading according to the reference pattern, so that the user
can visually check their measurements.
Size rotation
• Equal size - joins the grading of two patterns taking as reference the joint of each
graded size.
• Equal base - joins the grading of two patterns taking as reference the joint of the
base size, applying the same rotation to the other graded sizes.
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4. Grading Patterns
This chapter presents additional methods for grading patterns.
Automatic
Grades points and notches automatically according to the value indicated by Dx and
Dy from a reference point.
DX difference (cm)
Sets the value to be graded in DX;
DY difference (cm)
Sets the value to be graded in DY;
Apply to size
Lists all sizes to be graded according to the pre-defined grid in the Properties
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Mouse
Grades the patterns according to the control points and notches via the mouse.
Mode
• Incremental - applies the indicated measure in the Coordinates window using the
previous size as reference.
• Absolute - applies the indicated measure in the Coordinates window using the
base size as reference.
• Proportional - distributes the measure indicated in the window Coordinates
proportionally to the largest and smallest sizes with the base.
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Remove grading
Removes the grading from graded points on the pattern. Use it to delete the grading
from points, one by one or all at once.
Only DX
Deletes only the values graded in Dx.
Only DY
Deletes only the values graded in DY.
All pattern
Deletes the grading from the whole pattern at once, according to the selections in
Dx and Dy.
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Tip: When you select the option All pattern, simply select the pattern and all graded
points will be deleted.
Copy grading
Use this tool to copy the grading from one or multiple control points and apply it to
another pattern.
Copy
• 1 graded point - copies the grading of just one point;
• various control points - copies the grading of multiple control points set using the
mouse;
• all control points - copies the grading of all points of the pattern.
Only DX
Copies the grading value in DX
Flip DX
Inverts the value of DX from positive to negative and vice versa.
Flip DY
Inverts the value of DY from positive to negative and vice versa.
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Tip: The target pattern control point should be in the same position as the source control
point, otherwise the values would be inverted.
5. Checking Patterns
Properties
Pattern – the field where you may insert the pattern name;
Description – the field where you may insert relevant information about the pattern;
Marker properties – the field where you may fill in detailed information about each
pattern.
• Pattern ready – in case the pattern is not ready to be submitted for marking,
unselect this option so that this pattern will not be available in Audaces Apparel
Marker;
• Allow properties changes in Audaces Marker – by selecting this option, you may
modify the properties of the selected pattern in Audaces Marker. Should this option
be unselected, the pattern will become locked and you will not be able to modify it in
Audaces Marker;
• Fabric – allows you to select the fabric where the pattern will be cut out. It also
shows a list of all previously registered fabrics in Audaces Marker;
• Quantity per garment – the field where you may insert the number of pieces of
that pattern;
• Rotation – the drop-down menu from which you may select the pattern rotation,
using the direction of the thread as a frame of reference;
No rotation – prevents the piece from rotating when marking;
Free – allows the piece to rotate freely when marking;
Tip: To add a grading size, select the desired option and the area where the new size will
be inserted and include it in the grading.
In the Element column, you will find the figures corresponding to the pattern control
points.
In the Buffer (cm) column, you may set the safety distance for each pattern item,
indicating the width of each seam allowance in centimeters.
Apply - allows you to visualize the set seam allowance before applying it onto the
pattern.
In this tab, you may set up up to two points of reference for the knife of the Cutting
Machine to start cutting the piece.
Insert - enables you to select the points of reference in the pattern where you can start
cutting.
Remove - enables you to select and remove a point in the pattern
Ok – confirms the operation
Cancel – cancels the operation
Important: The CAM Points resource is only available in versions of Audaces Apparel for
Automatic Cutting Machines.
• Defaults Tools – enables you to set as default tools regularly used with patterns;
• Options for the configuration of colors and numbers for Notches on the Outline,
Internal Notches and Auxiliary Lines;
• Apply all – applies set properties to all patterns;
Information
When selecting the Information tool, the Information window will open, where you
may insert detailed information about the garment.
In this window, you will find the names of the Garment, Client and Collection, the
Description, a Keyword, the creation date and the last modification date.
You may edit all of these details, except for the creation and last modification dates,
which update automatically.
In this window, you may also create a password for the garment, register the
Author's details, visualize the patterns of the garment, configure notch relationship rules
and add pictures.
When clicking the Author's data button, you may access the registered details
assigned to the author of the file. When saving a new file, this window will open asking you
to confirm the details of the author of the garment.
Tip: To register details in the Author's data window, this function must be enabled in Main
Pictures
This window both captures a picture of the file in use and allows you to insert
pictures to the file.
• Insert - searches for pictures among the computer files and stores these
pictures in the file that is about to be saved.
• Delete - removes the picture from the window.
Patterns
When clicking this button, the Pattern properties window will open. Here you may
access and edit your configurations when necessary.
Notch relations
Notch relations help marking pieces, especially garments with patterns or textures.
On the left side of the window, you will find the Pattern 1 and Pattern 2 options and
the treeview with all the patterns that have coded notches.
When clicking the pattern, you may set all of its codes.
On the upper right corner of the window, you will be able to view the pattern(s)
being configured. Right below this image, there is a caption with the pattern name and
notch code number.
At the bottom of the window, you will see a list of modes, patterns and registered
codes.
Mode - sets the direction of the piece in relation to its orientation on the fabric as well as
the type of relationship to be taken into account, whether it is a piece-with-piece or piece-
with-fabric relationship. The orientation options are:
• Piece with fabric, horizontally – the pattern will be placed horizontally in relation
to the fabric. This function will only be available if the fabric has been configured
with horizontal lines (default);
• Piece with fabric, vertically - the pattern will be placed vertically in relation to the
fabric. This function will only be available if the fabric has been configured with
vertical lines (default);
• Piece with fabric, centered - the pattern will be placed in the center in relation to
the fabric pattern.
• Piece with piece, horizontally - the patterns will be placed taking into account the
horizontal line indicated in the first pattern. This function will only be available if the
fabric has been configured with horizontal lines (default);
• Piece with piece, vertically - the patterns will be placed taking into account the
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It finds the garment saved in Audaces Apparel Patterns. This function finds files by
browsing directories and enables you to use search filters to quickly find files.
Named - the field where you insert the filename or part of the filename. You may insert
only the file extension you wish to locate using the asterisk (*) before the file extension.
Look in - the field where you insert the folder where you wish to search for the file
Include subfolders - searches in subfolders.
Browse - finds the search folder. When clicking it, the Browse for Folder window will
display. In this window, you may select the folder where the search will be made. Select
the folder and click Ok.
Use search filters - when selected, the search will be based on all properties selected
and set in the Search filters window.
View search filters - opens the Search filters window, where you may indicate the file
properties you wish to search.
Fabrics
Here you register details about the fabrics and their properties. You may configure
tabs in the following way:
New – enables the fields of the Fabrics tab for the registration of a new fabric;
Remove – deletes the registration of the selected fabric;
Remove all – deletes all registered fabrics.
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1
This tab allows you to set the fabric marker properties that will be used when
marking patterns.
1. Click New;
2. Choose a Name for the fabric;
3. Select the Default setup option in case you wish the configurations of this
registration to be the point of reference for new registrations;
4. In the Description field, inform any additional properties;
5. Set up the pattern configurations, such as: Quantity per garment, Rotation
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1
1. Click New;
2. Choose a Name for the fabric;
3. Select the Default setup option in case you wish the configurations of this
registration to be used as a reference for new registrations;
4. In Visualize, select the properties you wish to view;
5. After editing information in this window, click Close to save your alterations in
the software.
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2. Building Patterns
Restoring patterns
Restoration Point
To create a restoration point means to memorize the pattern shape at that moment
so that you may go back to that shape if needed.
1. Select the pattern(s) for which you wish to create a restoration point;
2. Click the Home palette > Restoration Point;
3. Handle the pattern as you wish.
Tip 1: To view the original shape as you handle the pattern, click the option/ icon
Tip 2: In the Options window, select the Create restoration point when opening
and saving file option to create restoration points when opening as well as when saving
the file.
This function restores the pattern being handled according to the shape selected
when creating the Restoration point.
1. Select the pattern(s) you wish to restore;
2. Click the Home palette > Restore;
3. The pattern will go back to its shape as indicated in the Restoration point.
Straight Line
By angle
This option creates straight lines based on the angle specified in the selected item.
Angle – sets the angle which will serve as reference to the straight line.
Distance (cm) – sets the length of the straight line.
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Curve
Register curve
Here you may register the curves that you have created or digitalized so that you
may use them with different patterns.
In the Description column, you will find previously registered curves.
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7. Insert a description;
8. Click Ok.
Tip: The curve will be registered, and you may use it by clicking the Create default tool.
Curves may be set according to the piece pattern making. When registering curves
using the Register curves tool, you may access them from the Create default tool.
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This option allows you to rotate the selected element according to the chosen angle.
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This option enlarges or reduces the element according to the X and Y scale factors.
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On the Perimeter
This function allows you to insert points in elements (straight lines, curves and arcs)
and in patterns.
Perimeter (cm) – sets the distance between the points that will be inserted in the selected
perimeter.
No. of points – sets the quantity of points to be inserted in the perimeter.
Split element - when selected, this function splits the element into parts or the pattern into
segments.
Insert point - this option becomes available when selecting Split element. The Insert
point option only becomes available when the Split element is selected.
Keep distances on patterns - by selecting this option, the inserted points keep the
relation of graded patterns. The Keep distances on patterns option only becomes
available when the Split element is selected.
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By distance
This functions allows you to insert points from two distances and two references
using measurements that will link straight lines or curves.
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This function allows you to create arcs tangent to an arc and a straight line
according to a specified radius.
1. Select the Tangent to a straight line and arc tool, Building palette;
2. Indicate the reference arc;
3. Set the reference straight line;
4. In the Input the radius window, set the arc radius you wish to create;
5. The set value should be according to the relation between the arc and the
straight line, otherwise the following warning window will open:
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8. The Create arc window will open to set whether the arc should be inside or
outside the second selected arc;
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10. If you opt for Yes in relation to the first arc, you should follow the step-by-
step instructions below:
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11. If you opt for Yes in relation to the second arc, you should follow the step-
by-step instructions below:
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12. If you opt for Yes in relation to both arcs, you should follow the step-by-
step instructions below:
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This function allows you to create straight lines tangent to an arc according to a
specified angle.
1. Select the Line tangent to an arc given the angle tool, Building palette;
2. The Line angle window will open so that you may set angle;
3. Select the arc;
4. Set the direction and length of the straight line in relation to the arc;
5. Confirm and cancel.
1. Select the Straight line tangent to two arcs tool, Building palette;
2. Select the first arc;
3. Select the second arc;
4. Set the direction of the straight line tangent to the arcs;
5. Confirm and cancel
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Symmetry line
This function adds the symmetry line to the pattern or removes the former from the
pattern to set the area where the fold will be made using Audaces Apparel Advanced-
Marker. When marking the pattern, you will be asked whether it can be unfolded.
Action
• Add - adds a symmetry line to the pattern.
• Remove - removes the existing symmetry line from the pattern.
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Pleats
This function allows you to create simple pleats to the right, to the left or to both
sides (double pleats).
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You may close or transfer the darts inserted in the pattern using the Create dart
tool.
Action
• Transfer - transfers the position of the dart that is already in the pattern.
• Close - closes the dart that is already in the pattern.
Tip: The dart should be selected clockwise taking the dart vertex as a point of reference.
This can also be done by selecting the dart by its the shortest distance, which should be
different from the vertex.
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Remove region
Maintain region of pattern – keeps the selected area and separates it from the original
pattern.
Join patterns – joins the area of the elements indicated in the pattern and excludes the
remaining area. This tool transforms the elements into a different pattern.
Text notch
This function allows you to insert texts in the patterns in the form of notches. With
them, you may add information about the pattern. You may use this function to inform, for
example, where a pocket or pattern will placed.
Text - the field where you may type in the information that will be in the pattern.
Height – sets the height of the text.
Angle – sets the text angle.
Reference – sets the position of the text in relation to the mouse cursor.
Register notch
With this tool, you may register new notch shapes and modify previously registered
notches.
Notch and Description – the shapes and descriptions of notches that are already in the
tool.
Create – creates a new notch and inserts it in the list of notches that are in the software.
Modify – modifies an existing notch.
Delete – deletes the notches that are in the Notches window.
1. Create the desired shape for the notch using the tools: straight lines, curves
and arcs;
2. Select the Notches tool and a window with the Create option will open;
3. Click Create;
4. Indicate the element (the shape designed) by clicking the whole of the
outline;
5. Having indicated all elements, confirm by clicking next to the element;
6. Click the element to conclude;
7. Select the reference point of the notch;
8. The Modify notches window will open providing fields for the Notch name
and Description;
9. Insert the notch name in Notch;
10. In Description, insert any additional information;
11. Click Ok to confirm the operation.
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Replace
Notches – a column with a list of notches. In this column, select the notch you wish to
modify in the pattern;
Patterns – a list of the patterns available in the desktop.
Replace it with a notch - when selecting this option, you will see a list of the types of
notches with which the selected ones will be replaced.
Height (cm)- sets the height of the notches that will be replaced.
Height (cm) - sets the height of the notches that will be replaced.
Angle – sets the angle of the notches that will be replaced.
Replace it with internal notch – when selected, it replaces an outline notch with an
internal notch.
Distance (cm) – sets the distance between the original outline notch and the new internal
notch.
Remove selected notches – removes all selected types of notches in the pattern.
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7. Click Apply and all selected notches will be replaced automatically. Right
after that, you will be informed about the number of notches have been
replaced;
8. By clicking Apply, a window with information about the number of replaced
notches will open. Click Ok.
This function changes the position and dimension of a selected notch in the pattern.
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1
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This function configures the communication options between the digitizer and the
Audaces Apparel Patterns software.
Buttons – allows you to configure the mouse buttons used to digitize patterns on the
digitizer as well as to assign a pattern property to each button.
Notches – sets the size of the notches that will be identified by the set buttons in the
pattern when clicking the paper pattern.
Position – informs the position of the mouse and which button is being used.
Tangent
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This function grades all control points and notches from the rules or pre-configured
set of rules.
Type
• Grading rules – inserts previously created rules.
• Set of rules – inserts the set of rules previously created by the user.
Tip: The user's specific set of rules may be created in Start > Configurations > Grading
rules.
Nome - list of grading rules; some of which set by the user, and some others preset in the
software.
1. Select the tool;
2. The Grading pattern with rules window will open;
3. In Type, select the grading to be applied, whether rules or a set of rules;
4. In Name, select the rule to be applied;
5. Indicate the pattern;
6. Indicate the control points and/or notches;
7. Cancel to disable the tool.
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This function creates grading rules from already graded patterns. With this tool, you
may save the grading and apply it to other patterns.
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Join
Adjust curves – when selected, it adjusts the outline of the pattern curves at the moment
when they are joined.
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Group
This function groups the pattern grading and enables you to organize the graded
sizes from a point of reference.
DX point (cm) – assigns DX a value which will be applied to set the distance between two
patterns.
DY point (cm) – assigns DY a value which will be applied to set the distance between two
patterns.
Apply to size – sets the size to be grouped and allows you to select either one size or all
of them.
1. Select the Group tool, Grading palette;
2. The Group grading window will open;
3. Indicate and confirm the pattern;
4. Note that in case the pattern does not have set size grading, the software will
warn you about the grading settings in the Properties window. Click Yes to
set the grading;
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Deduct
This function proportionately grades patterns using the existing sizes indicated on
the desktop. This tool shows the patterns that are missing in an existing grading.
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Adjust
This function adjusts the grading of a point in relation to the other in the patterns.
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Grading curve
This function adds and removes graded curve points on the outline of the reference
size.
Mode
• Add – adds graded curve points.
• Remove Mode – removes graded curve points.
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5. Pattern Manipulation
Move point
This function moves control points from coordinates for better precision.
Discreet – when selected, this function moves the selected point together with the curve
points next to it.
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Scale
This function enables you to enlarge or reduce patterns using the scale factor.
X factor - sets the enlargement in terms of X. When the factor is 1, it equals 100%. Full
size.
Y factor- sets the enlargement in terms of Y. When the factor is 1, it equals 100%. Full
size.
Tip: Scale factors multiply the current value, for example: if the selected element is
rectangle of 10 cm in X, 40 cm in Y, Factor X = 2 and Factor Y = 2, the result will be a
rectangle of 20 cm in X and 80 cm in Y.
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Define curve
With this tool, you may set the number of points of a curve transforming them into
straight lines or curves.
No. of points - the quantity of curve points to be inserted in the pattern outline.
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6. Checking patterns
This function shows information about and properties of patterns. Here you may
print and modify pieces of information. Any piece of information modified in this field will be
modified in the Properties window.
Comparing perimeters
With this function, you may measure, compare and modify measurements between
elements and patterns by estimating sums and differences between perimeters.
The Total perimeter tab – informs the total perimeter of an element selected in the
pattern from a point to another.
• Size – in this column, you will find the grading sizes of the pattern.
• Total (+) - provides the sum of the selected items computed by the Add tool.
• Total (-) - provides the subtraction of the selected items computed by the Subtract
tool.
• Total - provides the mathematical difference between Total (+) and Total (-).
• Add – adds measurements to the table.
• Subtract – subtracts a value from the other.
• Clear – deletes all the values included in the window.
• Add measure – includes the selected element measurement in the window of the
The Perimeter tab – informs the perimeter of the selected element as well as the
difference between two sizes.
• Size – in this column, you will find the pattern grading sizes;
• Perimeter – perimeter of the selected element in the pattern;
• Perimeter difference – the difference between two sizes in relation to their grading.
1. Select the Compare perimeter tool, Conference palette;
2. The Compare perimeters (cm) window will open;
3. Set the outline of the pattern element and confirm;
4. Click Add;
5. Set the outline of the other pattern element and confirm;
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Measure distance
This function measures the distance between two indicated points using the mouse.
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Compare distances
The Distance tab - informs the distance between two selected points in the pattern.
• Size – in this column, you will find the grading sizes of the pattern;
• Selection – informs the selected distance. A new selection column will be created
for each distance added to the Distance between points (cm) window;
• Total (+) - provides the sum of the selected items computed by the Add tool;
• Total (-) - provides the subtraction of the selected items computed by the Subtract
tool;
• Total - provides the mathematical difference between Total (+) and Total (-);
• Add – adds measurements to the table;
• Subtract – subtracts a value from the other;
• Clear – deletes all the values included in the window;
• Add measure – includes the measurement between the points selected in the
pattern in the Garment's measures window. It offers the following options:
Measure – informs the included measurement;
Size columns – informs the pattern sizes;
Print – prints a report of the measurements included in the window;
Print – prints the report of all detailed information available in the Garment's measures
window;
Distance, DX, DY, Distance Difference, DX Difference and DY Difference - informs the
total distance between the selected points, the DX and DY values, the distance between
points and the difference between DX and DY.
The Distance/ DX /DY tab – informs the distance between the points indicated in the
pattern and the DX and DY values. It also informs the difference between them and the
angle by which the distance between two points has been measured.
• Size – in this column, you will find the grading sizes of the pattern;
• Distance – informs the distance between two points selected in the pattern;
• DX – informs the DX value;
• DY – informs the DY value;
• Dist. Dif. – informs the difference between the DX and DY measurements;
• DY Dif. – informs the difference between the measurements selected in DX;
• DY Dif. – informs the difference between the measurements selected in DY.
• Angle – informs the angle of the straight line sketched on the pattern.
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This function measures the distances between points both vertically and
horizontally.
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Angle
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Color
Line Style
Paste
Cut
It cuts all selected objects and stores them in the computer memory.
Tip: the Ctrl + X shortcut may be used to Cut. The cut objects may be pasted until
any other object is cut or copied.
Copy
It copies all selected objects and stores them in the computer memory.
Tip: copied objects may be pasted until any other object is cut or copied.
Delete
It inverts the object selection, selecting all of the objects that were not selected on
the desktop.
Select All
Invert patterns
It inverts the pattern selection, selecting all the patterns that were not selected on
the desktop.
Select Patterns
Audaces 3D
Open
It opens the patterns that are on the desktop of the Audaces 3D software.
Update
In case any of the patterns has been modified, you may update the open patterns in
Audaces 3D, clicking the Update tool.
Open software
In an easy and quick way, it opens the software packages for which the client has
licenses.
8. Start
New
Open
Close
Save
Save as
It saves all changes and information inserted in the document and creates a new file from
the original.
You may access the Garment information, Find patterns and Garment
measures options.
Import
It imports to Audaces Apparel Patterns files created in other software packages
and/or in other formats.
It imports files generated in the AutoCAD (.dxf) standard, default file format for CAD
software packages.
AAMA/ASTM
You may import plot files by detecting patterns in (.hpgl) and (.dmpl) standards.
Lectra
You may import Lectra standard files, Lectra Modaris (.vet)-(.iba) and (.mdl)
standard format files.
The import options for Lectra are: MDL Files, Model File (VET) and Pattern File
(IBA).
• MDL Files
1. Select File > Import > Lectra > Model File (VET);
2. Select the file;
3. In Notch, set the type and dimensions of the notches;
4. You may enable the Remove garment name from pattern name and
Remove control points too close options;
5. Click Open;
1. Select File > Import > Lectra > Pattern File (IBA);
2. Select the file;
3. In Notch, set the type and dimensions of the notches;
4. You may enable the Remove garment name from pattern name and
Remove control points too close options;
5. Click Open;
Investronica
You may import Investronica standard files via database (.bd) or export standard
(.exp).
You may import using the software Database itself or by means of the EXP File
exported by Investronica.
Tip: when selecting the Overwrite notches option, click the (...) button and set the
selected notch details in accordance with the image below:
5. When opening the file, the file patterns will be listed;
5. Click OK;
6. In Detail, click Connect and set the properties of the file you wish to import;
7. In the Server field, the servers with database that are in the network will
appear. Select or type the server name. The server may be local if the
Tip: you may find a pattern/ garment in Detail, in the Browse option. Type the desired
pattern / garment or part of the name with the % character. The character serves to find all
patterns with the same letters.
Gerber
Tip: For pieces whose seam were imported from Gerber, you will need to unselect the Hide
Seams options for the seam line to be recognized by the Audaces Apparel software.
Assyst
4. In Detail, click Options and set the properties of the file you wish to import;
Exporting
This function allows you to export the files created in Audaces Apparel Patterns to
other software packages.
ASTM D6673-01/2001
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Metafile
It exports files in the same format and (.emf) for technical specifications purposes or
Office. The export with Scale coefficient option enlarges or reduces the file size.
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Data Files
It exports XML standard file in text format (.txt). The latter may be incorporated into
the apparel management system.
1. Select File > Export > Data Files;
2. Select the folder where the file will be saved;
3. Set the filename;
4. Click Save.
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Settings
Colors
It sets the color of a range of Audaces Apparel Patterns files. This setting allows you
to improve the visual identification of pattern items in accordance with the user
preferences.
Colors - sets the Drawing, Selection, Background and the Grid colors
Patterns colors - sets the color and enables the visualization of items on the desktop.
Control point, Notch point and Non-graded point - you may select to view these items
Units of measure
It configures the units of measure that will be used in Audaces Apparel Pattern. It
provides options for each type of measure: Linear, Square and Precision.
Tip: the Ctrl + U shortcut may be used to open the Units of measure window.
Text Auto-Adjustment
It allows you to set the automatic adjustment of the text inserted in the pattern.
Options
This function sets some of the Audaces Apparel Patterns options. Namely: Font
size (cm), Auto saving, Pattern properties, Configure backup file, Notch.
Text
• Font size - configures the size of the fonts that will be displayed in the texts
of the Audaces Apparel Patterns software;
• Use TrueType - the True Type font improves the quality of file printing and plotting.
This option makes files heavier because it uses text fonts.
Auto-recovery
• Auto-recovery (min.) - sets how frequently the file will be saved automatically.
Pattern Properties
Bookmark
Notch
• Here you may set the standard notch sizes, by setting: width (cm), height (cm)
and angle (cm).
• Show ISO drill interface - when selected, identifies internal notches as marks and
sets them by means of the M43 and M44 commands for ISO export. When
selected, this option will be available in the windows: Insert notches, Modify
notches, Insert notch text, Insert multiple notches and Replace notches.
Performance
• Use antialiasing – when enabled, it smoothes out the drawings of elements.
Interface
• Allow dock auxiliary menus – when selected, it allows you to reposition the tools
at either the right, left or upper side of Audaces Patterns.
It configures the units of measure that will be used in Audaces Apparel Pattern. It
provides options for each type of measure: Linear, Square and Precision.
Click OK to apply the configured options.
Tip: these configurations are set according with the model and make of the digitizer. In
case you are not aware of those details, the Technical Support should provide you with the
configurations for each type of digitizer.
Grading rules
The create and modify the names and values that will be used in pattern grading.
Names
• Create grading names – creates the grading name and set its color as well as it its
reference (base) size;
Tip: When clicking the colors in the Create grading names window, the Select Color
window will open, which will allow you to set a color for each grading size;
Values
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The Group values of the Grading rules tab (group of grading values in a set order)
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• Delete - deletes the selected set of rules. When clicking it, the warning window
above will appear for you to confirm the deletion.
• Print - prints a report with information about the set of grading rules.
• Ok – confirms and closes the window.
It is grip composed of points or straight lines that helps you to build patterns with a
lot of precision.
Distance between dots (cm) – sets the distance between two points.
Reference mark (dots) – sets the reference value for the building of those points.
Grid style – allows you to select the grid type. The options are:
Dots
Dotted line
Straight line.
Lock on grid – by selecting this option, the objects will be locked to the grid boundaries.
Ok – confirms the operation.
Cancel - cancels the operation.
1. Set a value for Distance between points (this option refers to smaller
points);
2. Set a value for Reference Mark (this option refers to bigger points);
3. Set the Grid style (Dots, Dotted line, Straight line);
4. Select Lock on grid;
5. Click OK to save the modifications in the software.
Tip: in case the Grid is unselected, after confirming these settings, click the Show or hide
grid icon in the Visualization bar.
SNAP is a tool that helps you to build patterns with precision. A tool must be
selected for you to be able to build objects using SNAP.
When activating SNAP, it will look for the point that is nearest to that indicated in the
element, i.e. in the center or in the extremities.
1. Click Start;
2. Click Configurations > SNAP;
3. You may select a shortcut for this function, which may be either: Left + right
button, left button + ctrl or the middle button.
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1. To activate SNAP, accurately click the object that is close to the point you
wish to enable;
2. The element will change colors and SNAP will become visible;
3. When using SNAP with an object, you may indicate or locate a specific
perimeter by using the Coordinates window. The Perim. field will become
available in the menu for you to indicate how far the object was displaced in
relation to SNAP.
It allows you to customize palettes. You may create palettes adding the most
frequently used tools.
You may create up to three user palettes. All included tools will be available both at their
original palettes and user palettes.
Fabrics
For more information on how to use this tool, see chapter 1, Information about
Patterns.
Shortcut keys
They allow you to configure keyboard key combinations to use the software tools
giving you quick access to them.
Tip: in case there is already a shortcut assigned to that tool, you will be able to view it in
the Current Combination field;
Tip: in case the chosen shortcut has already been assigned to another tool, the software
will display a message informing you about the tool to which that shortcut has been
assigned. Edit and save your changes.
Printing Levels
They are resources used to configure the plotting in Plotter Mutoh. Its specifications
are different from others' since it cuts and marks.
Levels of Elements
• Pattern Element - provides a list of the elements to be configured;
• Level - sets which pen/ color will be used in the drawing plotting;
• Type - indicates the function of the level:
Drawing or cut – cuts or draws the element;
Punction – makes a mark on the element.
Help
Digital Manual
This manual provides explanations, illustrations, videos and tips for you to
understand how to use the software.
What's new
Virtual Keyboard
It displays Windows default calculator. It helps when doing sums and subtractions
on Audaces Apparel Patterns.
Author's Data
It opens the Author's Data window, a function which allows you to register the
author's details and link them with the patternmaking files. When saving a new file, this
window will open asking you to confirm or cancel the details of the author of the garment.
Important: in order not to view this function, select the Does not request this information
when saving files option. In this way, when saving a file, that window will no longer be
License
It provides information about the latest software version and Audaces Automação e
Informática Industrial Ltda. contact details, such as address and telephone numbers.
When clicking the yellow arrow, the Pattern Menu, which is on the left-hand side of
the Audaces Apparel Patterns desktop, closes.
Set viewing
Full view
It provides a full view of the project. When selecting this tool, you will be able to
view the entire desktop.
Increased viewing
It increases the visualization levels of the desktop. The more you click the tool, the
bigger the desktop becomes.
Reduced viewing
It decreases the visualization levels of the desktop. The more you click the tool, the
smaller the desktop becomes.
Zoom-in
It undoes the last visualization command. When selecting the tool, the command is
automatically undone.
It repeats the last visualization command. When selecting the tool, the command is
automatically repeated.
It enables/ disables the grid on the desktop. To configure the grid, follow: The Menu
bar > Configurations > Grid.
It highlights the original pattern shape. Once this option is unselected, the original
pattern will not come back.
Visualization properties
It allows you to enable the pattern properties that will be viewed on the desktop as
well as configure the pattern marker properties.
The Visualization tab – allows you to select which of the pattern properties will be
shown on the desktop.
The Marker properties – allows you to enable and set the pattern marker
properties.
Angle and Angle Distance - corresponds to the measurement (in degrees) of the
opening of a straight line in relation to a horizontal line. It corresponds to the distance
between two points.
Main angles:
Elements: spare shapes, such as: dots, straight lines, curves, arcs and texts inserted in
the desktop.
Base (reference) pattern: sketched following the human body anatomy and standardized
or individual measurements. These measurements must be perfectly accurate since the
patternmaking of any apparel piece will created from them. First the garments will be
sketched and then the patterns will be cut.
Mouse: an essential tool when using Audaces Apparel Pattern. Most of the software
operations are executed using it.
• Left button of the mouse: selects, indicates, clicks and activates elements by
confirming operations.
• Right button of the mouse: concludes tasks and cancels operations.
• Scroll Wheel button executes the following functions:
Zoom-in / Zoom-out - by scrolling the mouse wheel upwards or downwards,
it respectively enlarges or reduces the desktop visualization ;
Horizontal scrolling - by pressing 'Shift' and scrolling the mouse wheel, the
desktop moves horizontally;
Vertical scrolling - by clicking ‘Ctrl’ and scrolling the mouse wheel, the desktop
moves vertically;
Full view - by clicking ‘Ctrl’ and pressing the mouse scroll wheel, the program
shows all the elements that are on the desktop.
No. of points - the quantity of curve points to be inserted in the pattern outline.
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