joss_282 494..

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DOI: 10.1111/j.1745-459X.2010.00282.x

EFFECT OF MILK PASTEURIZATION ON FLAVOR

PROPERTIES OF SEVEN COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE FRENCH
CHEESE TYPES

DELORES H. CHAMBERS1,4, EMILIEN ESTEVE2 and ANNYLSE RETIVEAU3

1
Department of Human Nutrition
The Sensory Analysis Center
Kansas State University
Justin Hall
Manhattan, KS 66506-1407
2
Cereal Partners Worldwide
Route de Chavornay 1
Orbe, Switzerland
3
Sensory Spectrum, Inc.
New Providence, NJ

Accepted for Publication December 17, 2009

ABSTRACT

Previous research on matched pairs of experimental cheese showed that

heat treatment of milk affected flavor properties. However, whether pasteur-
ization has a generalized effect or whether the effect is specific to certain
cheese varieties is not known. Experienced, highly trained sensory panelists
developed flavor profiles for seven commercially available French cheeses
(Brie, Coulommier, Camembert, Saint Nectaire, Muenster, Chèvre and Bleu)
for which versions made from pasteurized or unpasteurized milk were com-
mercially available. Raw-milk cheese had stronger odor properties. Soft
cheeses with white rind (Brie, Coulommier, Camembert and Saint Nectaire) as
well as Chèvre and Bleu were affected similarly by heat treatment of milk, but
the sensory characteristics of Muenster cheese did not follow the pattern of
other cheeses. These results suggest that many, but not all, cheese types show
similar changes in sensory attributes as a result of using pasteurized rather
than raw milk.

4
Corresponding author. TEL: 785-532-0162; FAX: 785-532-0176; EMAIL: delores@ksu.edu

Journal of Sensory Studies 25 (2010) 494–511.

494 © 2010, The Author(s)
Journal compilation © 2010, Wiley Periodicals, Inc.
 EFFECT OF MILK PASTEURIZATION ON CHEESE FLAVOR 495

PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS

This study gives manufacturers and researchers information on flavor

differences that exist between similar cheese types made from raw or pasteur-
ized milk. Researchers and manufacturers can use that information in order to
develop pasteurized-milk cheese that has the traditional full-flavored charac-
teristics of its raw-milk counterpart.

INTRODUCTION

Raw-milk cheeses constitute a major portion of French cheeses with an

appellation of origin. These cheeses are highly praised for their expressive
sensory characteristics, their ties to unique areas of production and production
techniques that have been handed down for generations. About 15% (210,000
tons/year) of ripened French cheese is made from raw milk (Odet 1999). Short
shipping times have made it possible for a wide variety of French cheeses,
made both from raw and from pasteurized milk, to be shipped and consumed
throughout the world.
The sensory characteristics of ripened cheeses are a function of both the
manufacturing process and the quality of the raw material (Buchin et al. 1998).
Cheese flavor is primarily a result of the presence of various volatile com-
pounds developed during ripening (Adda et al. 1982; Kubickova and Grosch
1998; Berger et al. 1999; Sable and Cottenceau 1999). Lipid hydrolysis and
proteolysis are the two major phenomena that lead to the formation of aromatic
compounds during ripening (Adda et al. 1982; Grappin and Beuvier 1997).
The major purpose of milk pasteurization is to eliminate potential patho-
gens that may be found in raw milk. Heat treatment of milk has been shown to
affect the microbiological and chemical composition of cheese (Lau et al.
1991; Grappin and Beuvier 1997; Buchin et al. 1998; Xanthopoulos et al.
2000; Martuscelli et al. 2005; Ortigosa et al. 2005), which, in turn, affects the
sensory qualities of the cheese (Lau et al. 1991; Buchin et al. 1998; Skeie and
Ardo 2000; Gonzalez-Vinas et al. 2001; Morgan et al. 2001; Saric et al. 2002).
Heat treatment of milk has been inversely correlated with the degree of
lipolysis occurring during the ripening process (Lau et al. 1991; Buchin et al.
1998). The extent to which proteolysis is affected by prior heat treatment of
milk is unclear. Buchin et al. (1998) found that heat treatment of milk did not
affect the degree of proteolysis, although other researchers have found such an
effect (Lau et al. 1991; Beuvier et al. 1997; Grappin and Beuvier 1997; Saric
et al. 2002). It has been shown that ripening occurs faster for cheeses made
from raw milk (Gaya et al. 1990; Grappin and Beuvier 1997). Pasteurization
also eliminates some species and strains of indigenous microflora that con-
496 D.H. CHAMBERS, E. ESTEVE and A. RETIVEAU

tribute to the flavor of cheeses made with raw milk (Gaya et al. 1990; Grappin
and Beuvier 1997). Cheeses made from raw milk had larger concentrations of
alcohols, acids and sulfur compounds, and smaller concentrations of ketones
and aldehydes, than did cheeses made with pasteurized milk (Buchin et al.
1998).
Recently, Kilic and Lindsay (2006) showed that pasteurization reduced
arylsulphatase activity that could reduce hydrolysis of alkylphenols, which
contribute to the enzymatic reactions that aid in producing the flavor in
cheese.
Flavor differences between cheeses made from raw or pasteurized milk
have been identified in previous studies. Pasteurization not only reduced
sensory defects, but also reduced the overall flavor of ripened cheese (Morgan
et al. 2001). Xanthopoulos et al. (2000) reported that the use of pasteurized
milk in a Greek cheese, Anevato, resulted in a lack of the characteristic flavor
of the cheese. Mendia et al. (1999) studied Idiabazal-type cheese from ewe’s
milk and found that raw-milk cheese was more pungent and salty, while
pasteurized-milk cheese generally was creamier and sweeter. For Morbier
cheese made from cow’s milk, Buchin et al. (1998) found that the raw-milk
cheese had a stronger flavor and that the flavor was more indicative of the
specialized flavor of the cheese type rather than the more dairy-like character
of the pasteurized-milk cheese. Beuvier et al. (1997) found a higher overall
aroma intensity and pungency in raw-milk Swiss cheese when compared with
pasteurized-milk cheese. However, each of these studies compared a specific
type of cheese under controlled conditions rather than commercially available
samples.
The objectives of this study were to (1) establish the flavor profiles of
commercially available French cheese made from raw or pasteurized milk, and
to (2) determine whether overall differences in flavor and aroma existed
between commercial cheeses made from raw or pasteurized milk.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Samples
Seven types of commercial French cheeses were selected on the basis
of their market availability in both pasteurized and raw-milk versions. The
cheeses formed a diverse set and are described in Table 1. The seven types
were Brie, Coulommier, Camembert, Muenster, Saint Nectaire, Chèvre and
Bleu.
All but one of the cheeses were made from cow’s milk; the Chèvre cheese
was made from goat’s milk. All samples were obtained from the same supplier,
 EFFECT OF MILK PASTEURIZATION ON CHEESE FLAVOR 497

TABLE 1.
DESCRIPTIONS AND TRADITIONAL PRODUCTION AREAS FOR FRENCH CHEESE
EVALUATED IN THIS STUDY

Cheese name Description Traditional

production area

Brie Soft cheese with a white rind and cream-colored interior. Brie
Coulommier Soft cheese with a white rind and cream-colored interior. Brie
Camembert Soft cheese with a white rind and cream-colored interior. Normandie
Muenster Soft cheese with a brick red to orange rind and golden, slightly Vosges
sticky interior.
Saint Nectaire Firm cheese with a grayish rind and golden interior. Auvergne
Chèvre Soft, white to cream-colored cheese. Countrywide
Bleu Soft mold-ripened cheese with blue-green veins in the interior. Auvergne
The pasteurized version had a white mold cover.

but pairs of the same type of cheese were not necessarily made by the same
manufacturer. The raw and pasteurized cheeses in each pair were selected for
similar appearance and ripening stage. Because the cheeses used were com-
mercially available samples, the exact ripening times and previous ripening
conditions were not known.

Storage and Serving

Cheeses were purchased 1 week before testing and stored in a refrigerator
at 5C. Samples were removed 2 h prior to testing so they would reach a serving
temperature between 18 and 20C.
Cheeses were cut into 1.5-cm3 samples. All cheeses were tested with the
top rind as this is the way they are typically eaten in France. Servings of each
cheese were placed in disposable, odor-free, plastic cups (Solo Cup Company,
Urbana, IL), covered with a plastic lid and labeled with a three-digit code.

Panelists
As is typical with flavor profile panels, assessments were made by five
professional panelists from the Sensory Analysis Center at Kansas State Uni-
versity, Manhattan, KS, who were involved in this study. All were highly
trained, having completed 120 h of intensive sensory training with a minimum
of 1,000 h of general sensory testing experience, including more than 100 h
spent evaluating dairy products. Flavor profile panels, usually, are composed
of four to six panel members (Keane 1992). Chambers et al. (1981) showed
that panels with small numbers of highly trained panelists provided consis-
tently valid information.
498 D.H. CHAMBERS, E. ESTEVE and A. RETIVEAU

Test Methodology
Each sample was evaluated for odor, flavor and aftertaste. The procedure
for determining attributes, definitions and references was adapted from the
flavor profile method (Keane 1992) and previously used in other studies (for
example, Prell and Sawyer 1988; Heisserer and Chambers 1993; Lotong et al.
2000; Vara-Ubol et al. 2004; Matta et al. 2005; Bott and Chambers 2006;
Chambers et al. 2006; Talavera-Bianchi and Chambers 2008). Panelists were
provided with a lexicon previously developed to describe the flavor of a wide
variety of natural cheeses, including French cheese (Heisserer and Chambers
1993; Rétiveau et al. 2005), and had access to a generalized flavor lexicon
(Civille and Lyon 1996). They were asked to modify and adapt that terminology
to suit the cheeses used in this study. Other researchers have used trained
panelists to describe the flavor and texture of dairy products (Karagul-Yuceer
et al. 2007; Yates and Drake 2007; Talavera-Bianchi and Chambers 2008).
Panelists were asked to be as specific as possible and to identify attributes in
their smallest possible components (i.e., avoiding the use of complex attributes
that can be broken into several simple attributes). Vocabulary was discussed, and
agreement was reached on attributes, definitions and references. The intensities
of the references were scored on a 15-point numerical scale divided into
half-point increments, with 0 indicating “none” and 15 indicating “extremely
strong.” Sensory descriptors, definitions and references are provided in Table 2.
The panelists evaluated each cheese independently and wrote down the
descriptors present, the order of appearance and the intensity of each descrip-
tor. After all panelists were finished, the panel leader led a discussion to
develop a consensus on the cheese profile. Five evaluation sessions of 2 h each
were necessary to develop profiles for the 14 cheeses. Generally, four samples
were evaluated per session. Room temperature reverse osmosis, deionized,
carbon-filtered water; unsalted crackers; and apple slices were provided for
palate cleansing during testing.

Statistical Analysis
Data were analyzed by principal component analysis (PCA) using SAS
software (SAS, SAS Institute, Cary, NC). The objective of the PCA was to map
the cheese flavor profiles to help in understanding the major attribute dimen-
sions that differentiate the flavors of pasteurized and raw-milk cheeses.
Because some of the attributes were unique to only one or two of the cheeses
– and can cause problems in PCA – only attributes that were common to most
of the cheeses and represented the major base flavor of these specific French
cheeses were included in the PCA. Those attributes were the following:
buttery, dairy fat, dairy sweet, dairy sour, earthy, moldy, salty, oily mouthfeel,
butyric, astringent, sour, bitter, pungent and sharp.
 TABLE 2.
CHEESE ODOR AND FLAVOR VOCABULARY, DEFINITIONS, REFERENCES AND INTENSITIES

Descriptor Definition References, intensities and preparation (when appropriate)

Animalic A combination of aromatics associated with farm 1-phenyl-2-thiourea

animals and the inside of a barn.
Astringent A drying, puckering or tingling sensation on the
surface and/or edges of tongue and mouth.
Bitter Fundamental taste sensation of which caffeine and
quinine are typical.
Buttery The aromatics commonly associated with natural,
fresh, slightly salted butter.
Butyric An aromatic that is sour and cheesy, reminiscent of
baby vomit.
Chemical An aromatic impression associated with a broad range
of compounds, generally known as chemical, which
may or may not include chlorine, ammonia,
aldehydes, etc.
Cooked milk The combination of sweet, brown flavor notes and
aromatics associated with heated milk.
Dairy fat An oily aromatic reminiscent of milk and dairy fat.
Put two drops on a perfume-testing paper in a test tube
0.05% alum solution = 2.5
0.15% alum solution = 4.5
0.2% alum solution = 6.0
0.01% caffeine solution = 1.0
0.02% caffeine solution = 2.0
0.035% caffeine solution = 3.5
0.05% caffeine solution = 5.0
Land O’ Lakes unsalted butter = 7.0
Kraft 100% grated Romano cheese = 6.0 (aroma)
Kraft 100% grated Romano cheese = 9.0 (flavor)
Dillon’s whole milk = 4.5
Microwave one cup Dillon’s whole milk on high power
for 2 min (1,200 watts)
Dillon’s 2% milk = 3.0
Dillon’s whole milk = 3.5
Dillon’s half and half = 6.0
EFFECT OF MILK PASTEURIZATION ON CHEESE FLAVOR

Kroger whipping cream = 9.0

Dairy sour The sour aromatics associated with soured dairy Hiland sour cream = 8.5
products.
Dairy sweet The sweet aromatics associated with fresh dairy Dillon’s whole milk = 4.5
products.
499
 TABLE 2.
CONTINUED 500

Descriptor Definition References, intensities and preparation (when appropriate)

Fermented Combination of sour aromatics associated with
somewhat fermented dairy/cheesy notes that may
include green vegetation, such as sauerkraut, soured
hay or composted grass.
Fermented fruity The combination of aromatics that are sweet, slightly
brown overripe and somewhat sour, reminiscent of
red wine in general.
Green Fresh, green, slightly sour aromatics associated with
green vegetables, newly cut vines and snap peas.
Goaty An aromatic that is pungent, musty and somewhat
sour, reminiscent of wet animal hair (fur).
Moldy A damp, somewhat mildewy aromatic associated with
mold growth.
Musty/Earthy A slight musty aromatic associated with raw potatoes
and damp humus.
Nutty A nonspecific, slightly sweet, brown nutty impression.
Oily feel Related to the perceived fat content. Refers to the
intensity of the oily feeling in the mouth when the
product is manipulated between tongue and palate.
Overall dairy A combination of aromatics associated with products
Food Club sauerkraut juice from the can = 9.5
Mix one part juice to one part water
Reese Burgundy cooking wine = 10.0
Small sprig fresh parsley = 7.0
Saladena feta cheese = 5.0 (aroma)
Saladena feta cheese = 8.0 (flavor)
Cut cheese into half-inch cubes and place in cup, cover.
2-Ethyl-1-hexanol (related to, but not exactly, matching mold)
Put two drops on a perfume-testing paper in a test tube
Raw button mushroom (sliced) = 6.0 (aroma)
Raw button mushroom (sliced) = 8.0 (flavor)
Diamond of California finely diced walnut = 8.5
Cool Whip = 6.0
Land O’ Lakes unsalted butter = 9.5
Dillon’s 2% milk = 8.0 (flavor)
D.H. CHAMBERS, E. ESTEVE and A. RETIVEAU

made from fresh cow’s milk.

Overall odor strength Perceived odor strength when removing the lid of the Kraft mild cheddar cheese = 3.0
sample cup. Kraft sharp cheddar cheese = 6.0
Saladena feta cheese = 10.5
Pungent A sharp, physically penetrating sensation in the nose. Heinz white vinegar = 8.0
Mix one part vinegar with eight parts water
Reese horseradish mixed with Dillon’s sour cream = 8.0 (aroma)
Mix 27 g of horseradish with 40 g of sour cream
 TABLE 2.
CONTINUED

Descriptor Definition References, intensities and preparation (when appropriate)

Salty Fundamental taste sensation of which sodium chloride 0.2% NaCl Solution = 2.5
is typical. 0.25% NaCl Solution = 3.5
0.35% NaCl Solution = 5.0
0.5% NaCl Solution = 7.5
0.6% NaCl Solution = 8.5
0.8% NaCl Solution = 9.0
Sauerkraut The aromatics associated with fermented cabbage. Food Club sauerkraut juice from the can = 9.5
Mix one part juice to one part water
Sharp-bite A slight burning, prickling and/or numbness of the Heinz white vinegar = 8.0
tongue and/or mouth surface. Mix one part vinegar with eight parts water.
Reese horseradish mixed with Dillon’s sour cream = 10.0
Mix 27 g of horseradish with 40 g of sour cream.
Sour Fundamental taste sensation of which lactic acid and 0.015% citric acid solution = 1.5
citric acid are typical. 0.025% citric acid solution = 2.5
0.035% citric acid solution = 3.5
0.080% citric acid solution = 5.0
0.100% citric acid solution = 7.0
Sweaty Sour, stale, somewhat cheesy aromatics reminiscent of Isovaleric acid
EFFECT OF MILK PASTEURIZATION ON CHEESE FLAVOR

perspiration-generated foot odor, found in unwashed Put two drops on a perfume-testing paper in a test tube
gym socks and shoes.
501
502 D.H. CHAMBERS, E. ESTEVE and A. RETIVEAU

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Odor, flavor and aftertaste profiles for the 14 cheeses are provided in
Tables 3–5. The differences in odor intensity between raw and pasteurized
cheese were striking for most of the cheese pairs. Overall odor strength was
scored higher for raw-milk cheeses than for pasteurized-milk cheeses in
almost every pair. Most of the odor attributes were similar to the major flavor
attributes in the profiles.
A summary of the major differences in flavor between cheeses made from
raw and pasteurized milk is presented in Table 6. All the raw-milk cheeses had
higher ratings for both “butyric” and “moldy” attributes. French cheeses made
from pasteurized milk were rated higher for the “musty–earthy” note. The two
descriptors, “musty–earthy” and “moldy,” appeared to be in opposition.
“Musty–earthy” was found predominantly in pasteurized-milk cheeses, while
moldy was found predominantly in raw-milk cheeses. “Musty–earthy” is a
musty aromatic associated with potato and damp humus (earth), whereas
“moldy” is the aromatic associated with mold growth. These two attributes are
similar, but “moldy” might be seen as a flavor characteristic associated with
more microbial growth, which might explain why it was found predominantly
in raw-milk cheeses.
Most French cheeses made from raw milk had higher scores for “goaty,”
“fermented,” “sharp-bite” and “bitter.” The high scores for these attributes
might be explained by the occurrence of more chemical degradation during the
ripening of raw-milk cheeses. These findings are in accordance with Mendia
et al. (1999), who found that a ewe’s milk cheese made from raw milk was
more pungent. Also, Buchin et al. (1998) reported higher scores for the
attributes such as “rancid,” “bitter,” “pungent” and “spiced” in raw-milk
Morbier cheese. Most French cheeses made from pasteurized milk had higher
scores for the dairy attributes, including “buttery,” “dairy fat” and “dairy
sweet.” This predominance of such dairy notes suggests that less chemical
degradation takes place during the ripening of pasteurized-milk cheeses. The
studies conducted by Mendia et al. (1999) and Buchin et al. (1998) also
showed that pasteurized-milk cheeses were creamier and had higher scores for
milk and fresh milk attributes than raw-milk cheeses.
Some distinctions need to be made based on the different cheese families.
Soft cheeses with white rind (Brie, Coulommier, Camembert and Saint
Nectaire) had similar sensory profiles. For this group, raw-milk cheeses had
higher scores for “goaty,” “sharp-bite,” “bitter,” “butyric” and “moldy.” Most
of the raw-milk cheeses also scored higher for “pungency,” “astringency” and
“fermented” attributes. Those same cheese types made with pasteurized milk
had higher scores for the dairy notes, such as “buttery,” “dairy fat” and “dairy
sweet,” compared with the raw-milk cheeses. However, Camembert cheese did
 TABLE 3.
ODOR PROFILES OF FRENCH CHEESES STUDIED

Attribute Brie Coulommier Camembert Saint Nectaire Muenster Chèvre Bleu cheese

Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw

Overall odor strength 4.5 12.5 5.0 11.5 11.0 8.5 7.5 8.5 4.0 5.0 3.0 6.5 5.5 6.0
Animalic – – – – 5.0 – – – – 2.5 – – – –
Chemical – – – – 6.0 4.5 – – – – – – 2.5 –
Fermented – – – – 5.0 – – – – – – 4.5 – –
Fermented fruity – – – – – – – – 3.0 – – – – –
Goaty – 5.0 – 3.5 – – – – – – – – – –
Green – – – – – – 5.0 – – 2.5 – – – –
Moldy – – – – – – – 6.0 – – – – – 5.0
Musty/Earthy 4.5 – 5.0 – – 8.5 5.5 7.5 – – 2.5 4.0 5.0 –
Nutty – – – – – – 2.5 – – – – – – –
Overall dairy – – – – – – – – 2.0 – 2.0 – – 3.5
Sauerkraut – 8.5 – 8.5 – – – – – – – – – –
Sweaty – – – – – – – – – 3.5 – – – –

Intensity is rated on a 15-point scale with 0.5-point increments. 0.5 = none; 15 = extremely strong; – = not present.
EFFECT OF MILK PASTEURIZATION ON CHEESE FLAVOR
503
 504

TABLE 4.
FLAVOR PROFILES OF FRENCH CHEESE STUDIED

Attribute Brie Coulommier Camembert Saint Nectaire Muenster Chèvre Bleu cheese

Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw

Astringency 3.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.5 2.5 3.5 5.5 2.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 4.0
Bitter 2.5 3.0 2.5 3.5 3.5 4.0 3.0 4.5 5.0 3.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.5
Buttery 6.5 4.5 5.0 4.0 6.0 5.5 5.5 3.5 5.5 6.0 5.0 5.0 5.5 5.5
Butyric 2.0 3.5 3.0 3.5 2.0 3.5 2.0 5.0 5.0 7.5 5.0 6.0 5.5 6.5
Cooked milk 3.0 – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Chemical – – – – 3.5 3.0 – 3.0 – – – 3.0 – –
Dairy fat 8.0 6.5 7.0 5.5 6.5 6.5 7.0 5.5 7.5 8.5 7.5 7.0 7.5 8.0
Dairy sour 6.0 6.0 6.0 5.0 5.5 6.0 5.5 5.5 8.5 7.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5
Dairy sweet 4.5 3.0 4.0 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.5 2.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.0
Fermented – 6.5 – 5.5 5.0 4.0 – – 5.0 3.0 – 4.0 – –
Goaty – 5.0 – 4.0 4.0 5.0 – 5.0 2.5 – 6.5 7.0 3.5 3.0
Green – – – – – – 4.5 – – 2.0 – – – –
Moldy 3.0 6.0 4.5 6.5 4.0 6.5 2.5 7.5 4.0 4.5 – 3.0 5.5 10.5
Musty/Earthy 5.5 3.5 5.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 7.0 6.5 – 5.0 7.5 4.5 6.5 –
Nutty 2.5 – – – – – 3.0 – – – – – – –
Oily mouthfeel 5.5 3.5 4.0 3.5 4.5 4.0 2.5 2.5 – 3.5 – – 3.0 4.0
Pungency – 5.5 2.5 4.0 5.0 3.5 2.5 4.5 5.5 2.5 2.0 3.5 5.5 5.0
Salty 7.0 8.5 7.0 7.0 7.5 8.5 7.0 9.0 8.5 7.5 8.0 8.0 8.5 9.5
D.H. CHAMBERS, E. ESTEVE and A. RETIVEAU

Sauerkraut – 7.5 – 5.5 2.0 – – – – – – – – –

Sharp-bite – 4.5 2.5 4.0 3.0 5.0 3.0 5.5 6.5 3.0 3.5 4.0 5.5 7.0
Sour 3.5 4.0 3.5 3.5 4.0 4.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 3.5 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0
Sweaty – – – – – – – – – 2.0 – – – –

Intensity is rated on a 15-point scale with 0.5-point increments;. 0.5 = none; 15 = extremely strong; – = not present.
 TABLE 5.
AFTERTASTE PROFILES OF FRENCH CHEESE STUDIED

Attribute Brie Coulommier Camembert Saint Nectaire Muenster Chèvre Bleu cheese

Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw Pasteurized Raw

Bitter 2.5 3.0 2.5 3.5 3.5 4.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 2.5 2.0 3.0 3.5 4.5
Fermented – – – – 3.5 – – – 4.0 – – – – –
Goaty – – – – – – – – – – 3.0 3.5 – –
Green – – – – – – 3.0 – – – – – – –
Moldy 3.0 5.0 4.0 5.5 3.5 5.0 – 6.5 – 4.0 – – 3.5 6.5
Musty/Earthy 3.5 – 3.5 – – – 5.0 – – – 4.5 3.0 4.0 –
Overall dairy 3.5 2.5 3.0 2.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 – – 3.5 3.5 – – –
Salty 3.5 5.0 4.0 3.5 4.0 5.5 4.5 5.5 5.0 4.0 4.5 4.0 4.5 5.5
Sauerkraut – 4.5 – 3.5 – – – – – – – – – –
Sour – – – – – – – – 3.0 2.0 2.5 – – –

Intensity is rated on a 15-point scale with 0.5-point increments;. 0.5 = none; 15 = extremely strong; – = not present.
EFFECT OF MILK PASTEURIZATION ON CHEESE FLAVOR
505
506 D.H. CHAMBERS, E. ESTEVE and A. RETIVEAU

TABLE 6.
FLAVOR PROFILE DIFFERENCES IDENTIFIED FOR CHEESE MADE FROM RAW AND
PASTEURIZED MILK

Cheese type Flavor characteristics with a higher Flavor characteristics with a higher
score in pasteurized-milk cheese score in raw-milk cheese

Brie Earthy, buttery, dairy fat, dairy sweet, Moldy, sauerkraut, goaty, fermented,
cooked milk, nutty butyric, sharp-bite, pungency,
astringency, bitter
Coulommier Earthy, buttery, dairy fat, dairy sour, Moldy, sauerkraut, goaty, fermented,
dairy sweet butyric, sharp-bite, pungency, bitter
Camembert Dairy sweet, buttery, sauerkraut, Earthy, moldy, goaty, butyric,
fermented, chemical ammonia, sharp-bite, bitter
animalic, pungency
Saint Nectaire Earthy, green, nutty, dairy fat, dairy Moldy, goaty, chemical, butyric,
sweet, buttery pungent, sharp-bite, astringent, bitter,
sour
Muenster Dairy sour, goaty, fermented, sharp-bite, Moldy, sweaty, green, animalic, butyric
pungency, astringency, bitter, sour
Chèvre Earthy, dairy fat Moldy, fermented, chemical, butyric,
goaty, astringency, pungency,
sharp-bite, bitter, sour
Bleu Earthy, chemical ammonia Moldy, butyric, sharp-bite, bitter

not follow this pattern completely. Camembert cheese made from pasteurized
milk scored higher for “fermented,” “chemical ammonia,” “sauerkraut,” “ani-
malic” and “pungent” attributes. It is possible that the ripening provided by the
mold may have interacted differently when natural bacteria in raw-milk cheese
were present or this particular cheese sample may have ripened more than the
raw-milk Camembert sample.
The pair of Chèvre cheeses followed the same trend as that observed with
the soft cheeses with white rind. Chèvre cheese made from raw milk had
higher scores for “fermented,” “butyric,” “goaty,” “moldy,” “astringency,”
“pungency,” “sharp-bite,” “bitter” and “sour.” In contrast, Chèvre cheese from
pasteurized milk was earthier and had a higher score for “dairy fat.” Bleu
cheese made from raw milk scored also higher for “moldy,” “butyric,” “sharp-
bite” and “bitter.” Conversely, Bleu cheese from pasteurized milk was earthier,
with less intensity than the moldy-flavored raw-milk Bleu cheese.
The flavor comparison for Muenster cheese was somewhat different from
that of other cheeses. Although the overall odor score for the raw-milk Muen-
ster was higher, as has been found for other cheeses, other characteristics did
not necessarily mimic the raw/pasteurized differences found in the other
cheeses: higher scores for “sweaty,” “green” and “animalic.” Muenster made
from pasteurized milk had higher scores for “sharp-bite,” “fermented,”
“goaty,” “pungency,” “astringency,” “bitter” and “sour” attributes. In the other
 EFFECT OF MILK PASTEURIZATION ON CHEESE FLAVOR 507

7 Pasteurized
Muenster
Raw
Bleu
3.5
Chèvre Muenster
Bleu
PC2 (28%)

Chèvre
0
Coulommier St. Nectaire
Camembert
Brie
St. Nectaire
-3.5 Brie
Camembert
Coulommier

-7
-7 -3.5 0 3.5 7
PC1 (41%)

FIG. 1. FRENCH CHEESE ANALYZED BY PRINCIPAL COMPONENT (PC) ANALYSIS

cheeses, those descriptors tended to characterize raw-milk cheeses. Whether

those differences are the result of a difference in the type of cheese or the result
of different commercial suppliers is not known. However, because both
cheeses were manufactured in the same area, the findings suggest that heat
treatment of milk might not have affected the flavor profile for Muenster
cheese in the same way as it did for the other French cheeses.
Our results suggest that all cheese types are not affected similarly by heat
treatment of milk. It must be noted that some specific differences between
profiles of cheeses of the same commercial pair might have been because both
cheeses of the pair were not manufactured by the same company. However, the
overall trends in flavor differences are remarkably similar and suggest that the
generalized effect is based, at least in part, on differences in raw and pasteur-
ized milk.
The overall effect of pasteurization on the flavor profiles of the cheeses
can be seen in Fig. 1, which shows the first two dimensions of the sample
space described by the PCA. The dimensions accounted for 41% (first
dimension) and 28% (second dimension) of the total variation in the data.
The PCA shows that the cheeses under investigation represented a range of
different flavors and that cheeses of the same type made from raw or pas-
teurized milk were similar, but not identical. The first principal component
(PC1) differentiated the various cheese types and between pasteurized and
raw-milk cheeses, with higher scores on the PC1 for raw-milk cheeses, with
the exception of Muenster. The attributes that loaded most heavily on PC1
(“musty–earthy,” “moldy,” “butyric,” “pungent,” “sharp” and “bitter”) are
those that changed most with the use of pasteurized milk. The second prin-
508 D.H. CHAMBERS, E. ESTEVE and A. RETIVEAU

cipal component (PC2) helped differentiate the cheese types, but not the
milk treatment, because samples from the same type of cheese were likely to
have equivalent scores on PC2.
Milk pasteurization reduces lipolysis and proteolysis, both of which
generate a diversity of odiferous compounds, including acids, alcohols,
ketones, esters and amino acids. As a result, some of the compounds that
produce the unique flavor of raw-milk cheeses might be present in higher
concentrations in these cheeses than in pasteurized-milk cheese. Sable and
Cottenceau (1999) found that the compounds responsible for the “pungent”
and “sharp” flavors in cheeses were acetic acid, propionic acid,
4-methylpentanoic acid, hexanoic acid, 3-methylpentanol, 4-methylpent-3-en-
2-one and ethyl formate. Beuvier et al. (1997) showed that higher levels of
pungency in raw-milk cheeses might be caused by higher amounts of phos-
photungstic acid-soluble nitrogen, as well as acetic and propionic acids (Sable
and Cottenceau 1999). Lemieux and Simard (1992) concluded that the bitter-
ness found in raw-milk cheeses might be associated with an increased con-
centration of bitter-tasting peptides produced through proteolysis. In cheeses,
the “butyric” note might be caused by volatile fatty acids (El Soda et al. 1995)
such as 2-methylpropionic acid, butanoic acid, pentanoic acid or decanoic acid
(Sable and Cottenceau 1999).

CONCLUSIONS

French cheeses made with raw milk differed in odor and flavor from the
same cheese types made with pasteurized milk. Results suggest that cheese
made from raw milk have a higher overall aroma intensity and somewhat
different flavors, especially sharp, butyric, bitter, goaty and moldy, than those
made with pasteurized milk. Soft cheeses with white rind (Brie, Coulommier,
Camembert and Saint Nectaire) as well as Chèvre cheese and Bleu cheese
were affected similarly by heat treatment of milk, suggesting a somewhat
generalized effect of pasteurization on cheese flavor. Cheeses made from
pasteurized milk generally scored higher for “musty–earthy,” “buttery” and
“dairy fat.” Sensory characteristics of Muenster cheese did not follow the
general pattern for the other cheeses tested. Muenster cheese made from raw
milk was “sweaty,” “green,” “animalic” and “butyric”; Muenster cheese made
from pasteurized milk scored higher for “goaty,” “fermented,” “sharp-bite,”
“pungency” and “bitter” attributes.
These data suggest that many, but not all, cheese types have more general
dairy attributes (dairy sweet and dairy fat) and lower intensities of some
characterizing flavor notes when made from pasteurized milk. To obtain the
 EFFECT OF MILK PASTEURIZATION ON CHEESE FLAVOR 509

high quality traditionally associated with local raw-milk cheeses, modification

of ingredients, processing or aging of pasteurized-milk cheeses needs to be
investigated further.

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