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ISBN 978-1-62700-506-7
52299
www.JewelryandBeadingStore.com
Marla Salezze
Waukesha, Wisconsin
Kalmbach Books
A division of Kalmbach Media
21027 Crossroads Circle
Waukesha, Wisconsin 53186
www.JewelryAndBeadingStore.com
All rights reserved. Except for brief excerpts for review, this book may not be reproduced in part or in
whole by electronic means or otherwise without written permission of the publisher.
Numbered step-by-step illustrations by the author. All other photography © 2018 Kalmbach Books
except where otherwise noted.
The jewelry designs in Learn to Stitch Beaded Jewelry are the copyrighted property of the author, and
they may not be taught or sold without permission. Please use them for your education and personal
enjoyment only.
Published in 2018
22 21 20 19 18 1 2 3 4 5
Manufactured in China
ISBN: 978-1-62700-506-7
EISBN: 978-1-62700-507-4
My goal in writing this book was to introduce you to some of my favorite stitches and new
ways to use those stitches to create stunning beaded jewelry. Whether you are brand new to
beadweaving, ready to take your beginner skills to the next level, or an experienced beader
looking for a refresh on a classic stitch, the projects in this book will propel you forward on
your bead journey.
I’ve organized each chapter in the book by type of stitch, and I’ve explored nine stitches
to offer you 27 innovative beaded jewelry projects. Each chapter contains three projects:
a necklace, bracelet, and earrings. I also offer an alternative design option for each project
so you can truly customize your beaded jewelry to your personal style preference. The
alternative design options build off the techniques from the main project, and include
additional skills, stitches, and embellishments to further your beading repertoire.
You can certainly flip through the book and make a project that speaks to you—or dive into a
specific chapter with a stitch you love. However, if a beadweaving stitch is brand-new to you,
I encourage you to begin with the first project in that particular stitch’s chapter, as it will lay
the foundation for weaving that stitch. All other projects in each chapter build from the first
project, so a thorough understanding of the basic stitch from that project will give you the
skills and confidence you need to successfully create the other projects in that chapter.
You will find my personal tried-and-true tips and techniques sprinkled throughout the pages
of this book. My goal was to share with you as much of my beading knowledge as possible
for you to use as a reference. These tips will provide assistance and guidance as you bead.
My aspiration for this book is to make you fall in love with bead weaving as much as I have,
so I truly hope you enjoy learning the stitches I’ve presented and have fun beading the
projects I created. You might find you like some stitches better than others—I’ll admit,
I have my favorites, too—but regardless of how you use this book, I hope it inspires your
own unique beadweaving exploration.
Let it bead,
Marla
Beads
As you’ll soon discover, beads come in a wide variety of
sizes, shapes, materials, colors, and finishes. The projects
in this book include glass seed beads in size 150, 110, 80,
and 60; glass cylinder beads in size 110 and 100; and some
varying sized beads in various shapes. The most important
cylinder beads
thing to note about bead sizes is the larger the number size,
the smaller the bead. For example, a 150 seed bead is small
and a 60 seed bead is significantly larger.
Druk beads are larger round glass beads. Crystals are glass
beads with many facets (you will find Swarovski and Czech drop beads
crystals, among other options). Crystals may be round,
bicone (a three-dimensional diamond shape), or rondelle
(a round, squat shape). Crystal pearls are man-made glass
pearls that are perfectly round and great for stitching.
Fire-polished beads are faceted, oblong glass beads.
tip
• When I find a color or finish on a bead I really love,
I will purchase the same bead in a variety of sizes.
Brick beads
crystal pearls
crimp covers
earring findings
You will use clasps to finish your jewelry, and they are
available in multiple sizes and finishes. Always choose a
clasp that is secure with a finish that will last. All clasps serve
the same purpose of securing the beaded jewelry to a
neck or wrist. Consider which clasp style will look best with
a particular piece of jewelry. Choose from lobster clasps,
multi-strand bar clasps (the spring-loaded versions are more
secure and reliable then the magnetic ones), toggle and bar
clasps, S-hooks, and magnetic clasps. I like to attach clasps
jump rings to my beadwork with a jump ring so the clasp can easily be
changed out if it breaks or does not work properly.
Jump rings are small metal wire circles that are used to
connect findings to beadwork and other components.
They are available in a variety of sizes and finishes. I used
unsoldered rings in this book, which means they can be
opened and closed. Accu-guards are little metal horseshoe-
shaped metal components that are threaded through with
Accu-guards
beading wire when bead stringing. These findings protect
the beading wire from wear and tear that might lead to
fraying or breaking.
Tools
Beading needles come in a variety of sizes and lengths.
Just like with beads, the larger the size, the smaller the
needle. Depending upon which size beads you are using
helps determine which size needle is best to bead with.
Each project indicates which needle size is preferable to
complete that particular project. Using a long or short
needle is mostly a personal preference, however, sometimes
the length of the needle is dictated by the type of bead
stitch and/or beading supplies being used and it’s helpful
to have both lengths and multiple sizes readily available
while beading. beading needles
craft wire
thread
Knots
Square knot
Cross the left-hand end of the thread over the right, and bring it under and back up.
Cross the end that is now on the right over the left, go through the loop, and pull both
ends to tighten.
Half-hitch knot
Pass the needle under the thread path between two beads. A loop will form as you pull the
thread through. Cross back over the thread between the beads, sew through the loop and
pull gently to draw the knot into the beadwork. To make a more secure half-hitch knot, I like
to sew through my loop twice before pulling it closed.
Adding thread
I like to add new thread when I have about 6–8 in. (15–20cm) of my current working thread
left. Cut a new piece of thread and thread it on a needle. Tie an overhand knot around an
existing thread path within the beadwork, leaving a tail of about 6–8 in. (15–20cm). Sew
through a few beads in the direction of where the new thread needs to be added, following Old thread
the existing thread path of the beadwork, and tie two half-hitch knots. Continue sewing
through beads and tying half-hitch knots through about an inch of beadwork until the new
thread exits the same bead as the remaining old thread. Tie an overhand knot with the old
thread and the new thread to maintain tension. Begin working with the new thread.
Ending thread
Similarly to how thread is added, sew through a few beads with the thread you wish to end,
following the existing thread path of the beadwork, and tie two half-hitch knots. Continue
sewing through beads and tying half-hitch knots through about an inch of beadwork. Once
you are confident the thread is secure, pull it against the beadwork and cut it (or use a
thread zapper).
Crimping
String a crimp bead on your desired length of beading wire. String one end of the clasp on the beading wire, and pass
back through the crimp bead, creating a loop around the clasp. Make sure the beading wire strands are lying parallel to
each other. Place the crimp bead into the back notch of the crimping pliers, and squeeze the crimp bead. Turn the crimp
bead a quarter turn, place it in the front notch of the crimping pliers, and squeeze the crimp bead a second time. This will
fold the crimped bead over on itself.
10
Beading Lingo
Thread Path: The existing path of thread in between each bead of the
beadwork. When trying to get your needle to another point in the beadwork,
always follow the existing thread path in between the beads to get there.
This reinforces the beadwork, but most importantly, assures that no new thread
paths are created (and exposed).
Working Thread: The end of the thread where the needle is attached.
Tail Thread: The end of the thread opposite the end where the needle
is attached.
“Up” Bead: A bead in the row higher than or “up” from the current row.
Step Up: The action of passing up through the first bead(s) added in that
same row to prepare the thread to be in position to start the next row. Not all
stitches require a step up, but each stitch has a specific way for it to be done.
Zip Up: The action of connecting two ends of the same piece of beadwork by
following the thread path of a particular stitch to create a seamless join.
11
12
d c
811
o 0 seed bead, color A
metal seed bead, color A e
b
o a
811 0 seedseed
metal bead, color
bead, colorBB
figure 1 figure 2
tips
• To count the total number of rows beaded in flat, even-
count peyote beadwork, add up the total number of
beads in the first and second column of your beadwork.
figure 4 Refer to the illustration (figure 4) to see the difference
between a row and a column. The tan filled/black outlined
beads make up rows (horizontally) and columns (vertically).
The same with the blue filled/red outlined beads.
• I used pre-cut leather tassel trim for this project, but you
can take a plain, un-cut piece of leather and make a tassel
trim yourself. Use a ruler to measure and cut out evenly-
spaced strips, leaving ¼ in. (6mm) of un-cut leather at the
top to roll around the headpin.
• Replace the 110 metal seed beads with regular 110 glass
seed beads for more color options. You won’t need as
many grams of As and Bs when using glass beads, as they
weigh less than metal beads.
No-Tassle
Earrings
Not a fan of the leather tassel? Replace the tassel with a
second 8mm crystal bead.
14
o
100 cylinder
10 cylinder bead,
bead,color A A
color c
d
o
100 cylinder
10 cylinder bead,
bead,color B B
color b
a
10
o
100 cylinder
cylinder bead,
bead,color C C
color figure 1
figure 2
15
pattern
16
c
a b
figure
Supplies
• 4 12mm crystal rivolis • 2-strand clasp
• 98 4mm crystal bicones • Braided beading thread,
• 86 4mm crystal pearls 6-lb. test
• 1.5g 110 seed beads • Beading needle, size 12
• 1g 110 cylinder beads
• 1g 150 seed beads
18
4mm
4mm crystal
4mm crystal pearlpearl
crystal pearl
4mm crystal pearl
4mm
4mm crystal
4mm crystal bicone
crystal bicone
pearl
bicone
figure 1 11 4mm
o
seedcrystal bicone
bead
11o bead
110 seed
4mm seed bead
crystal bicone
o
11
11oo cylinder
seed bead
bead
cylinder bead
11
15 o seed
o bead
15o seed
110 cylinder
11 bead
bead
cylinder
seed
o
bead
bead
11
15o cylinder
seed beadbead
150 seed
15o bead
seed bead
c
b
figure 2
figure 3
a
figure 4
h
e
clasp assembly
d figure 6
a
10. Pick up a crystal, and sew through the 8th center pearls and five crystals for a total of four pearl sections, four
cylinder of the next rivoli (shown in blue). crystal sections, and a final section of three pearls (e–f).
11. Repeat step 7 until all the rivolis are connected with a 17. The last bead strung on the neckstrap should be an 110.
crystal (b–c). Pick up six 150s, and sew through the second loop of the
two-strand clasp (f–g). Sew back through the 110 and the
Bead the neckstraps and add rest of the beads in the strand (g–h). Connect the neckstrap
the clasp to the focal centerpiece by sewing through the bead (shown
in green) in the opposite direction in which the neckstrap
note strand began (h–e).
The beaded neckstraps will be connected to the green 18. Retrace the thread path at least one more time to
outlined beads in figure 6. Use a piece of thread at least reinforce the connection to the center rivoli component and
2 yd. (1.8m) long when beading EACH neckstrap, because the clasp.
the bead strands will need to be reinforced. 19. Repeat steps 16–18 on the left side of the center
bezeled rivoli. End the threads.
12. Exiting a green outlined bead of the left bezeled rivoli
(figure 6, point a), pick up a crystal and an 110 seed bead tips
five times. Pick up a 4mm crystal pearl and an 110 five times. • I alternated the neckstraps with sections of five crystals
For an 18-in. (46cm) necklace, continue adding sections of and pearls, separated by 110 seed beads. You could
five crystals and five pearls for a total of five crystal sections easily bead the neckstraps with all crystals, or all pearls, or
and four pearl sections (a–b). alternate with sections of three or ten, depending upon
13. The last bead strung on the neckstrap should be an which shape and style beads you prefer. The variety of
110. Pick up six 150s, and sew through the first loop of the beads you use for the neckstraps may also be determined
two-strand clasp. Sew back through the 110 and retrace the by your desired length for the necklace. I suggest playing
thread path through the beads in the strand (c–d). Connect around with the beads and stringing all four strands
the neckstrap to the rivoli component by sewing through separately before you connect them to the clasp.
the bead (shown in green) in the opposite direction in which • Replace the 4mm pearls with 4mm druk beads as I did in
the neckstrap strand began (d–a). the Statement Necklace, p. 21.
14. Retrace the thread path at least one more time to • When working with rivolis and leaving the foiled back
reinforce the connection to the center rivoli component and exposed—as in this project—protect the foil back from
the clasp, ending and adding thread as necessary (Basic scratching or peeling, which can alter the appearance of
Techniques). the front of the crystal, by applying some clear nail polish
15. Repeat steps 12–14 on the right bezeled rivoli. to the back of the rivoli before beading around them.
16. Exiting a bead (shown in green) on the right side of the
center bezeled rivoli (point e), pick up a pearl and an 110
five times. Pick up a crystal and an 110 five times. For an
18-in. (46cm) necklace, continue adding sections of five
20
Statement Necklace
Make a necklace with more sparkle and more statement
by increasing the size of the focal component. Bezel
nine crystal rivolis and connect them with six strands of
strung beads.
tip
• To make the crystal rivolis stand out in the alternate
design option, I used two different colored rivolis
and arranged them together so the colors alternated.
I selected colors that coordinated with the cylinder and
seed beads so I could use the same materials to bead
all the bezels.
figure
21
22
Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
• 10 6mm druk beads
• 45 4mm bicone crystals
• 1.5g 80 seed beads
• 2.5g 110 seed beads
• 0.25g 150 seed beads
• Toggle clasp
• 2 6mm jump rings
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Beading needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of chainnose pliers
23
note
The 80s are this spiral rope’s “core” beads. The sequence
of three 110s, a 4mm crystal, and three 110s are the spiral
rope’s “loop” beads. Make sure each new loop is oriented
the same way—determine right away whether the core
beads are on the left and the loop beads are on the right, or
vice versa, and always add them the same way. Eventually
the “loop” beads will begin to create a spiral around the
figure 1 “core” beads.
tips
• The instructions are written for a 5-in. (13cm) spiral focal
piece and 1 in. (2.5cm) of strung beads on either side.
Leaving ¾ in. (1.9cm) for the toggle clasp, this bracelet
is 7¾ (19.7cm). To add or subtract length to the bracelet,
increase or decrease the number of spiral rope rows you
bead and add or subtract strung beads for your desired
length.
• The spiral rope stitch requires multiple thread passes
through the core beads, and it can get a little tight in
there. I like to use 80s as core beads because the inside
figure 3 diameter of the holes is large enough to accommodate
multiple thread passes without a struggle.
24
25
Loop Earrings
As you will soon discover with this earring project,
•
•
•
•
3g 3.4mm drop beads
2g 80 seed beads
3g 110 seed beads, color A
0.25g 110 seed beads, color B
you can really get creative with the center bead
• Pair of earring wires
you use in a spiral rope loop. I used whimsical
• 2 11mm twisted jump rings
lentil beads to add some flare to these earrings,
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
and I connected the ends together to create an
• Beading needle, size 11
infinity spiral rope.
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
26
3.4mm drop
3.4mm dropbead
bead
o
880 seed
seedbead
bead
110o seed
11 seedbead,
bead,color A A
color
o
110 seed
11 seedbead,
bead,color B B
color
27
Supplies
(figure).
7. Attach a 6mm jump ring to the beaded loop on
each end of the rope, and use a jump ring to attach necklace, 20 in. (51cm)
a lobster clasp on one end. figure
• 35 12mm lentil beads
tip • 11g 3.4mm drop beads
• To tighten the spiral rope, I sew through the center focal • 5.5g 80 seed beads
bead when using drop beads as the focal bead in a spiral • 7g 110 seed beads, color A
rope loop. This ensures all the drops are facing upwards • 1g 110 seed beads, color B
(sometimes they like to turn in on themselves) and makes • Lobster clasp
for a tight spiral. I don’t use this technique when I’m
• 3 6mm jump rings
beading a bicone as my center bead; I love the way the
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
faceted edges of the diamond shape stack so nicely on
their own as in the Winding Rivulet Bracelet, p. 23. • Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
28
Supplies
necklace, 20 in. (51cm)
• 236 4mm crystal rondelles
• 236 3mm bicone crystals
• 6g 80 seed beads
• 6g 150 seed beads, color A
• 1g 150 seed beads, color B
• Lobster clasp
• 2 3mm jump rings
• 6mm jump ring
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. and
14-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
29
30
Additional Supplies
necklace, 20 in. (51cm)
• 18.5g 60 seed beads
• 5.5g 80 hex beads
31
32
Supplies
• 4 10mm gemstone rounds
• 1g 6mm twisted bugle beads
• 0.5g 150 seed beads
• 2 2-in. (5cm) headpins
• 2 25mm earring wires, kidney shaped
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• Wire cutters
• Roundnose pliers
• Needle chainnose pliers
33
tips
• The series of three beads added around the bugle
is known as a picot. This embellishment stitch will
be used in other projects throughout the book.
• To connect a component to a kidney-shaped ear-
ring wire, slide the looped end of the component
onto the open end of the earring wire and pinch
the section near the closing shut using needle
chainnose pliers. This prevents the component
from sliding around the earring wire.
34
Supplies
necklace, 19 in. (48cm)
tips
• A round, a ladder component, and a round measures
• 35 10mm gemstone rounds
just under 1 in. (2.5cm). When determining your finished
• 5g 6mm bugle beads necklace length, make more or fewer ladder-stitched
• 2.5g 150 seed beads components as desired.
• 24 4x3mm rondelles • Replace the rounds with another type of 10mm bead,
• 2 crimp beads, #1 such as a glass pearl.
• 2 3mm crimp covers
• 2 3mm jump rings
• 2 accu-guards
• S-Hook clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• .018-in. beading wire, 49-strand count
• Needle, size 11
• Crimping pliers
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
35
Supplies
necklace, 22 in. (56cm)
• 5 8mm crystal pearls
• 132 4mm fire-polished beads
• 14g 4mm cube beads
• 4g 110 seed beads
• 1g 150 seed beads
• Toggle bar clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
36
1111
o 0 seed
seed bead bead
150 seed bead
15o seed bead h
l
Supplies
Garden Path Bracelet
Forget about the fork in the road, and bead a singular
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm) pearl-paved path that ends in this statement bracelet.
• 27 6mm crystal pearls Follow very similar steps as the main project, but use smaller
• 52 4mm fire-polished beads cube beads and pearls.
• 6g 3mm cube beads
1. Refer to the Fork in the Road Necklace, p. 36. Follow
• 2g 110 seed beads steps 2–4 with 3mm cube beads for a total of 55 cubes, or
• 4 3mm jump rings until the ladder-stitched strand is the desired length. Repeat
• Two-strand clasp this step to make another short strand.
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test 2. Connect the ladder-stitched strands as in steps 6–12, but
• Needle, size 11 continue adding pearls and 110 seed beads for the entire
length of the strands.
3. On the last cube of both ends of each ladder-stitched
strip, work as in step 15. Remove the stop beads and end
all the threads. Attach a jump ring to the beaded loops on
each end of the ladder stitched strand and the toggle and
bar section of the clasp (Basic Techniques).
38
Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
• 30–36 6mm crystal pearls
• 7g Tila beads
• 2.5g O-beads
• 11g 110 seed beads
• Four-strand clasp
• 8 4mm jump rings, unsoldered
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
39
tila bead
Tila bead
c
6mmcrystal
6mm pearl pearl
b
O bead
O-bead
o a
110 seed
11 seed bead
bead
figure 1
c
b
a
figure 2
Bead ladder-stitch strands next Tila in the right ladder strip, and pick up five 110s,
1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread an O-bead, a 6mm pearl, an O-bead, and five 110s, and
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. sew through the top hole (from right to left) of the
2. Pick up a Tila bead through the top hole (from left to corresponding Tila in the left ladder strip (b–c).
right). Pick up another Tila through the bottom hole (from 8. Continue adding 110s, O-beads, and pearls as indicated
right to left). Sew back through the top hole of the first in step 7 for the entire length of the ladder strips, leaving
Tila (from left to right) and through the bottom hole of the the last Tilas unconnected (c–d).
second Tila (from right to left). Sew through the available 9. Exiting the bottom hole (from right to left) of the last Tila
hole of the second Tila (from left to right) (figure 1, a–b). in the right ladder strip, pick up 16 110s, and sew through
3. Pick up a new Tila through the bottom hole (from right the top hole (from right to left) of the last Tila in the left
to left). Sew back through the top hole of the previous Tila ladder strip (d–e).
(from left to right) and through the same hole of the new 10. Sew through the beadwork, hiding the thread path,
Tila (from right to left). Sew through the top hole of the third so the needle is exiting the top hole (from right to left) of
Tila (from left to right) (b–c). the last Tila of the right ladder strip. (Your needle will be
4. Continue adding Tilas as indicated in step 3, ladder- pointing toward the left ladder strip.) Pick up 16 110s, and
stitching a strip of Tilas the desired length of the finished sew through the bottom hole (from right to left) of the last
bracelet, adding and ending threads as necessary (Basic Tila in the left ladder strip. Then sew through the top hole
Techniques). I used 37 Tilas in my 7-in. (18cm) bracelet. (from right to left) of the next Tila (figure 3, a–b), working
toward the tail.
note 11. Continue adding 110s as directed in step 10 for the
The clasp will add approximately ½ in. (1.3cm) to the final entire length of the ladder strips, connecting all the Tilas in
bracelet length. both ladder strips (b–c). (The side with the pearls is the top,
or front, of the bracelet.)
5. Work as in steps 1–4, creating a second ladder-stitch strip
of Tilas the same length as the first one.
Embellish the ladder strands
Connect the ladder strands 12. Exiting a top left hole of the top left Tila, pick up three
6. Exiting the bottom hole (from left to right) of the first Tila 110s, and sew through the adjacent hole of the same Tila
in the left ladder strip, pick up 16 110 seed beads, and sew (figure 4, a–b).
through the top hole (from left to right) of the first Tila in the 13. Sew through the left bottom hole of the new Tila (from
right ladder strip (figure 2, a–b). right to left) and pick up three 110s. Sew through the top
7. Sew through the nearest hole (from right to left) of the hole of the same Tila (b–c).
40
e
b
f
c b
c
g
figure 3 figure 4
tip
• Each Tila has a top hole and a bottom hole. Each Tila also
has a flat bottom and slightly curved top. Be sure each
Tila is facing the same way when a new Tila is picked up.
41
Edge Embellishment
Bracelet
Instead of embellishing the ladder strands with a
picot edge, try embellishing the bracelet with this
figure 1 bead-rolled edge.
42
43
Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
• 20g 60 seed beads
• 1g 110 seed beads
• Button with shank
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
44
a b
c
c
b
f
a
e d
d
figure 3 figure 4
Brick stitch the bracelet 10. Sew through beads along the edge of the bracelet
1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread so the needle is exiting a 60 along the opposite edge
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. (c–d). Work as in step 9 to embellish this edge of the
2. Pick up two 60 seed beads, and sew through them both bracelet (d–e).
again, positioning the beads side by side so the holes are 11. Sew through beads, hiding the thread path, so the
parallel (figure 1, a–b). needle is exiting the third 60 in the first row of brick stitch
3. Pick up a 60, sew through the previous 60, and then sew to be in position to attach the clasp (e–f).
through the new 60 (b–c).
4. Continue adding new beads as in step 3, for a total of Attach the clasp and finish
six 60s (c–d). 12. Pick up six 110s and the button, and sew through the
5. Pick up two 60s, and sew under the thread bridge next 60 (figure 4, a–b). Retrace the thread path two more
between the first and second 60s in the previous row from times to reinforce the connection. End the thread.
back to front and up through the second 60 just added 13. Add a 12-in. (30cm) length of thread to the available
(figure 2, a–b). end of the bracelet, and sew through the beadwork to exit
6. Pick up a 60, and sew under the next thread bridge in the second 60 on this end of the bracelet. Pick up 28 110s,
the previous row from back to front and then through the and sew through the fifth 60 (b–c). Make sure the clasp loop
new 60 (b–c). fits around the button. Increase or decrease the number of
7. Continue adding new 60s as in step 6, for a total of six 110s added in this step to ensure a good fit. Retrace the
60s (c–d). thread path two more times to reinforce the connection.
8. Continue adding new beads as in steps 5–7, ending and End all threads.
adding thread as necessary (Basic Techniques), until the
bracelet reaches the desired length. tip
• I used Picasso finish seed beads to make both bracelets.
note I love the natural and organic look of the Picasso finish
The clasp will add approximately ½-1 in. (1.3–2.5cm) to the because the beads mimic the beauty of a stone. Since
finished bracelet. they have a very earthy look, I like to mix them with
metallic and galvanized finishes, like I did here, to add a
Embellish the bracelet distinctive contrast.
9. Exit an existing 60 along one edge of the bracelet,
pick up two 110 seed beads, and sew through the next 60
(figure 3, a–b). Continue adding 110s for the length of the
bracelet (b–c).
45
tip
It takes 109 rows of brick stitch with
80 seed beads to fit around a 23/4-in.
(7cm) bangle. Have fun creating your own
unique pattern using this stitch.
46
a b d
660o seed
seedbead
bead
seedbead
880o seed bead c
figure 1
Supplies
necklace, 161/2 in. (41.9cm) Make the collar
• 9.5g 60 seed beads 1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
• 21.5g 80 seed beads
2. Pick up two 80 seed beads, and sew through both beads
• 10–12mm magnetic barrel clasp
again, positioning the beads side by side so the holes are
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test parallel (figure 1, a–b).
• Needle, size 10 3. Pick up an 80, sew through the previous 80, and then sew
• E6000 adhesive through the new 80 (b–c).
4. Work as in step 3 for a total of six 80s (c–d).
47
tips
• These instructions are for collar-style length. To make the
necklace larger, stitch additional rows during steps 8 and
13. You can always add rows of 80s on both sides of the
beadwork at the very end, before the necklace is “zipped
up.” 12 rows of brick stitch with 80s is approximately
1 in. (2.5cm).
• Heavier thread is used to add strength to the necklace
and prevent thread from tearing when it is “zipped up”
and curved into a collar. The large holes in the 60s and 80s
can accommodate the heavy thread.
• When gluing a clasp onto finished beadwork, separate
the clasp first and glue each clasp end to the jewelry.
Let the clasp components dry completely before closing
the clasp again. This will prevent any glue from leaking
into the magnetic chamber of the clasp, causing it to be
permanently glued together.
figure 5
48
tip
• The additional rows added in the 80 sections allows for figure
more rows in the center focal section of 60s, with the collar
still being able to curve as it must to maintain its shape.
Supplies
necklace, 20 in. (51cm)
• 10.5g 60 seed beads
• 14g 80 seed beads, color A
• 14g 80 seed beads, color A
• 10–12mm magnetic barrel clasp
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test
• Needle, size 10
• E6000 adhesive
49
Supplies
• 44 4x3mm crystal rondelles
• 2.5g 110 seed beads
• Pair of 37x26mm oval hoop earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
50
4x3mm crystalrondelle
4x3mm crystal rondelle
11o
seed bead
15 seed bead
0
figure 1 figure 2
Make the earrings 5. Exiting the last rondelle added, pick up seven 110 seed
1. On a comfortable length of thread, tie a square knot beads, skip a rondelle, sew down through the next rondelle,
around the back end of a looped earring wire, leaving a and sew up through the previous rondelle (figure 2, a–b).
6-in. (15cm) tail (Basic Techniques, p. 9). 6. Pick up seven 110s, skip a rondelle, sew down through
2. Pick up two 4mm crystal rondelles, loop the thread the next rondelle, and sew up through the skipped
around the earring wire, and sew up through the second rondelle (b–c).
rondelle (figure 1, a–b). (The first rondelle will not lay 7. Repeat step 6 until you sew through the first rondelle
flat against the ear loop; it will when later on when the added (c–d).
embellishment is added.) 8. Loop the thread around the ear loop and up through
3. Pick up a rondelle, loop the thread around the earring the first rondelle. At this point, the rondelle should lay flat
wire, and sew up through the same rondelle (b–c). against the ear hoop like the rest of the rondelles. End all
4. Repeat step 3 all the way around the looped earring wire threads (Basic Techniques).
for a total of 22 rondelles (c–d). 9. Repeat to make a second earring.
51
Extra-Sized Earrings
Make a larger, more dramatic pair of coiled hoop earrings
by using a larger size earring wire hoop for these flashy
earrings.
tip
• Because the thread is exposed where it wraps around the
earring loop, I chose to bead with crystal (clear) thread so
the thread was less noticeable on the finished earring.
52
53
Supplies
bracelet, 61/4 in. (15.9cm)
• 12 7mm two-hole cabochon beads,
color A
• 7 7mm two-hole cabochon beads,
color B
• 7.5g 80 seed beads
• Button with shank
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 10
54
two-hole cabochon
2-hole cabochon bead,bead,
color Bcolor B
e e
d
8o0 seed
seedbead
bead
c d
a b d c
c
b b
figure 1 f
a a
c b a
d
Herringbone stitch three beaded 11. Repeat step 10 four times (b–c).
strands 12. Pick up a color A two-hole cabochon bead, sew down
1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread, through the available hole and next 80, and sew up through
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. the next 80 and A (c–d).
2. Pick up four 80 seed beads, and sew through all four 80s 13. Pick up two 80s, sew down through the A and 80, and
again, positioning the beads side by side so they form two sew up through the next 80, A, and 80 (d–e).
columns and the holes are parallel (figure 1, a–b). 14. Repeat step 10 four times.
3. Pick up two 80s, sew through the previous column of two 15. Repeat steps 12–14 to the desired length (see “Tips”),
80s, and then sew through the new column again (b–c). adding and ending thread as needed (Basic Techniques).
4. Work as in step 3 three more times (c–d). Set the remaining thread aside.
5. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the 80 in 16. Attach a comfortable length of thread to the
the previous column and up through the following 80 herringbone base, and exit the right bead in the middle
(figure 2, a–b). herringbone column (figure 4, point a).
6. Repeat step 5 (b–c). 17. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the adjacent
7. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the next 80 (c–d). 80 and up through the corresponding two 80s (figure 4,
8. Sew up through the adjacent 80, and sew diagonally up a–b).
through the last 80 added in the previous step. This is a 18. Work as in steps 12–15 using Bs in place of As, and
herringbone step-up (d–e). referring to figure 4.
9. Repeat steps 5–8 three more times. 19. Attach a comfortable length of thread to the
10. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the next 80 herringbone base, and exit the right bead in the left
and up through the previous two 80s in the same row, herringbone column (point f).
and continue through the first 80 added in this step 20. Work as in steps 10–15 to make a third herringbone
(figure 3, a–b). strand.
55
Connect the strands and add 28. Sew up through the next 80, pick up two 80s, and sew
the clasp down through the adjacent 80, up through the following
21. Bead the three herringbone strands together (with the 80, and diagonally up through the last 80 added (c–d).
thread set aside from step 15), and sew through the top 29. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the next 80 and
row of beads using the ladder stitch, just as the initial row up through the button shank. Pick up two 80s, and sew
of beads were stitched in steps 2–4 (figure 5, a–b). down through the button shank and up through the next
22. Sew up through the next 80 and sew diagonally up 80. Pick up two 80s, sew down through the next 80, and
through the last 80 added (b–c). step up (d–e).
23. Add three rows of herringbone by repeating steps 5–8 30. Repeat steps 5–8 two times (e–g).
three times (figure 6). 31. Even out the top beads in the last herringbone row
a. Row 1 (black thread) (a–b) by sewing through the beads using the ladder stitch (g–h).
b. Row 2 (red thread) (b–c) End all threads.
c. Row 3 (blue thread) (c–d)
24. Even out the top beads in the last herringbone row by tips
sewing through the beads using the ladder stitch thread • The beaded clasp will be approximately 1 in. (2.5cm),
path (d–e). so determine how large you want the finished bracelet
25. Step up (as in step 8), pick up enough 80s to securely length to be, and subtract an inch to determine the length
loop around the button clasp (I used 18 80s for a 16mm for the herringbone strips. You can add extra seed bead
button), and sew through the last 80 on the opposite end rows to the clasp ends to make the bracelet longer.
of the row (e–f). Retrace the thread path to reinforce the • Do steps 2–4 look familiar? We are beading with the
connection. End the working thread. herringbone stitch, but starting out the very first row with
26. On the other end of the bracelet, pick up two 80s, ladder stitch, as in the Art Deco Earrings, p. 33.
and sew down through the next 80 (figure 7, a–b). • The two-hole cabochon beads have a flat side and a
27. Sew up through the next 80, continue through the curved side. Make sure these beads are all being added
button shank, and sew down through the same 80. Sew to the beadwork with the curved side facing upwards.
through the next 80 and the button shank, and down • Any size button can be used for the clasp. Just be sure to
through the same 80 (b–c). Retrace the thread path a few adjust the number of 80s added in step 25 so the beaded
times to reinforce the connection. loop fits around the button.
56
tip
• Because the beads are smaller in this project, more rows
will need to be beaded in each herringbone stitched
strand, so bead as many rows as necessary until you reach
the desired length.
57
Supplies
• 26 4mm bicone crystals
• 6.5g 80 seed beads
• 1.5g 110 seed beads
• 0.5g 150 seed beads
• 2 24.5mm open frame hoops
• Pair of earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
58
808oseed
seed bead
bead
110oseed
11 seed bead
bead
150oseed
15 seed bead
bead
e figure 1 a g
f
a e b
c
b
d c d
figure 2 figure 3
59
b
e
c
f
d e
a f
d
b g
j o
c
h
i
n
figure 4 k l
s m q p
r u
61
62
a d
b
figure 1 figure 2 figure 3 figure 4
a c b
64
tip
• Wear this long tubular herringbone strand wrapped around
your wrist a few times as a stylish multi-strand bracelet.
Supplies
necklace, 39 in. (.99m)
• 3.5g half-Tila beads, color A
• 3.5g half-Tila beads, color B
• 76 3mm crystal pearls, color A
• 74 3mm crystal pearls, color B
• 3.5g 110 seed beads, color A
• 3.5g 110 seed beads, color B
• 0.25g 150 seed beads
• Lobster clasp
• 6mm jump ring, unsoldered
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
65
66
Supplies
• 76 4mm fire-polished beads
• 4g 80 seed beads
• 6g 110 seed beads
• Wide metal channel bangle, 23/4-in. (7cm)
diameter x 1 in. (2.5cm)
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
67
4mm fire-polished
4mm firepolish bead bead f
880o seed
seedbead
bead d e
11o0seed
seedbead
bead c b
11
a
figure 1
i h g
a
b
68
69
Supplies
necklace, 18 in. (46cm)
(c–d). Retrace the thread path to reinforce the connection,
and end the working thread.
11. Repeat steps 8–10 from this project to add the
• 74 4mm fire-polished beads other end of the clasp to the other end of the necklace.
• 7.5g 80 seed beads End all threads.
• 10.5g 110 seed beads
• Magnetic clasp with loops tip
• 6-lb. test braided beading thread • What makes these netting rows curve is the alternating
rows: one with three 110s along the edge and the other
• Needle, size 11
with an 110, a fire-polished bead, and an 110.
70
Supplies
lariat, 33 in. (84cm)
• 7g 3.4mm drop beads
• 27g 110 seed beads, color A
• 6g 110 seed beads, color B
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
71
b
c
c
b c
a 3.4mm
3.4mmdrop
drop bead
bead
1111
0 seed
o
seedbead, colorAA
bead, color
o
1111 seedbead,
0 seed bead, color
colorBB
figure 5 figure 6
72
figure
Supplies
necklace, 22 in. (56cm)
• 27.5g 3.4mm drop beads
• 18g 110 seed beads
• Magnetic clasp
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 2 3mm jump rings,
unsoldered
• Braided beading thread,
6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose
pliers
73
Supplies
• 18 6mm crystal pearls
• 2g 3.4mm drop beads
• 1.5g 110 seed beads
• 2 2-in. (5cm) headpins
• Pair of kidney-shaped earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
• Wire cutters
• Roundnose pliers
74
a
c
b
6mm crystal
6mm crystalpearl
pearl
3.4mm dropbead
3.4mm drop bead
11
110o seed bead
seed bead
figure 1 figure 2
b
a d
c
b
a
Stitch the earring components 12. Sew through the next two drops (figure 5). Retrace the
1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up a 6mm pearl, thread path a few times to reinforce the connection.
a drop bead, a pearl, a drop, a pearl, and a drop, for a total 13. Sew through the beadwork, following the thread path,
of six beads. Tie the beads into a ring using an overhand to exit a drop on the opposite end of the beadwork (a drop
knot (Basic Techniques, p. 9) (figure 1), leaving a 6-in. from step 1).
(15cm) tail. 14. Repeat steps 2–4.
2. Pick up three 110s, a drop, and three 110s, and sew 15. Repeat step 12. End all working and tail thread
through the next drop in the previous row (figure 2, a–b). (Basic Techniques).
3. Repeat step 2 two more times (b–c). 16. Repeat to make a second earring component.
4. Sew through the first three 110s and one drop added in
this row. This is a step-up (c–d). Assemble the earrings
5. Pick up a pearl, and sew through the next drop. Repeat 17. String an earring component on a headpin and make
two more times (d–e). a simple wire loop (Basic Techniques). Connect the loop
6. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to bead another tubular netting to the earring wire. Pinch the loop on the earring wire to
row (figure 3, a–b). ensure the connection.
7. Step up as in step 4 (b–c). 18. Repeat to connect the second earring.
8. Repeat step 5 to bead a tubular netting row that fills in
the previous netting row (c–d). tip
9. Repeat steps 6–8. • These quirky quilted drop components make great
10. Repeat step 6 (figure 4, a–b). beaded beads. String them on beading wire with other
11. Repeat step 7 (b–c). beads to make a necklace like the one on p. 111.
75
76
77
Supplies
• 23g 60 seed beads, bead soup mix
• 0.5g 110 seed beads
• 20mm button with shank
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
78
660o seed
seed bead
bead a b
o
110 seed
11 seedbead
bead figure 1 figure 2
b a
79
tip
• You are beading a stop stitch
in step 2. The last 110 that is
skipped before sewing through
the rest of the beads STOPS the
rest of the beads from coming
loose. You’ll use this stitch again
in another project.
80
81
figure 2
82
12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 six more times, connecting - 14 B 110s to the third clasp loop (blue thread path)
seven square-stitched squares. (The increasing number of - 14 B 110s to the third clasp loop (blue thread path)
110s between the square-stitched squares creates the - 16 B 110s to the fourth clasp loop (green thread path)
shape of this necklace.) - 16 C 110s to the fourth clasp loop (green thread path)
13. Connect both the first and last square-stitched square - 18 C 110s to the fifth clasp loop (pink thread path)
from steps 10 and 11 to another square-stitched square - 18 C 110s to the fifth clasp loop (pink thread path)
using the following sequence: 16. Retrace the thread paths connected to the clasp to
- 10 A 110s (three times) reinforce the connection.
- 10 B 110s (three times) 17. Repeat steps 15 and 16 to connect the other side of the
- 10 C 110s (three times) clasp to the rest of the beadwork. End all threads.
14. Connect two square-stitched squares to each end of
the beadwork using the sequence of beads from steps 11 tip
and 12. • If you have a lot of thread left over after beading one of
15. To connect the last square-stitched squares to the clasp, the square-stitched squares, save it and use it to connect
use the following sequence (figure 3): to another square.
- 10 A 110s to the first clasp loop (black thread path)
- 12 A 110s to the second clasp loop (red thread path)
- 12 A 110s to the second clasp loop (red thread path)
83
Supplies
bracelet, 61/2 in. (16.5cm)
• 3g 80 hex beads, color A
• 2.5g 80 hex beads, color B
• 3g 110 seed beads
• 0.25g 150 seed beads
• Two-strand bar clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
84
Supplies
• 4g two-hole Brick beads
• 2.5g 80 seed beads
• 0.25g 110 seed beads
• Pair of earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
85
d
c figure 2a (side view)
b
a
figure 1a (side view)
2-hole brick
two-hole bead
Brick bead
880oseed bead
seed bead
110o seed
11 bead
seed bead
c a
e d
b
figure 3
Make the earrings Continue adding two 80s in between each Brick around the
1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up a Brick ring (figure 3, a–b).
bead and an 80 seed bead a total of eight times, and tie 9. Exiting the top hole of a Brick, pick up six 110s, and sew
an overhand knot with the tail to make a circle. through the top hole of the Brick opposite the Brick the
2. Pick up a Brick, and sew through the following hole of the thread is exiting (c–d).
previously added Brick. Sew back through the same hole of 10. Sew through the adjacent hole of the next Brick, and
the Brick added in this step (figures 1 and 1a, a–b). retrace the thread path through the six 110s. Continue
3. Pick up an 80 and a Brick, and sew through the same hole through the Brick adjacent to the Brick the thread exited
of the previously added Brick and back through the same at the start of this step (d–e). Retrace the thread path to
hole of the Brick added in this step. Repeat this step six reinforce the connection. End all threads (Basic Techniques).
times (b–c). 11. Open an end loop on an earring wire, and attach the
4. Pick up an 80, and sew through the same hole of the first beaded loop of 110 seed beads.
Brick added in step 2 (c–d). 12. Repeat to make a second earring.
5. Sew through the available hole of the same Brick (figures
2 and 2a, a–b). tips
6. Pick up two 80s, sew through the available hole of the • If your tension is loose, sew through the outside seed
next Brick, through the available hole of the Brick directly beads and Bricks of both the top and bottom rows to
beneath from the previous row. Continue back through the tighten it up.
same hole of the top Brick. Repeat this step six times (b–c). • When working with two-hole beads, it’s important to
7. Pick up two 80s, and sew through the available hole of distinguish the top and bottom hole in association with
the next Brick (c–d). your beadwork. For this project, the bottom hole of one
8. Sew through the available hole of the Brick directly Brick will always line up with the bottom hole of the Brick
beneath. Pick up two 80s, and sew through the next Brick. that will be ladder stitched on top of it. The same goes for
the top holes of the Brick.
86
87
88
Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
• 41 6mm round beads
• 24 2x3mm rondelles
• 1g 110 seed beads
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 3 3mm jump rings
• Lobster clasp
• 11/2-in. (3.8cm) headpin (optional)
• 1 in. (2.5cm) metal chain, fine
textured cable
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
• Roundnose pliers (optional)
89
6mmround
6mm round bead
a a
2x3mm
2mm rondelle
rondelle
1.5mm
11o
seedcrimp
bead bead
1.5mm crimp
110 seed beadbead b
figure 1
a
c
Make the cuff 9. Exiting a 110 in the last row, pick up four 110s, a crimp,
1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up an 110 seed and four 110s, and sew through the 110, 6mm, and 110
bead, a 6mm round bead, two 110s, a round, two 110s, along the opposite edge (c–d).
a round, an 110, and a round, and form the beads into a 10. Work as in step 7, adding rondelles along the entire
ring by tying an overhand knot with the tail, leaving a 6-in. length of the bracelet. End the threads.
(15cm) tail (Basic Techniques, p. 9). Sew through the 110, 11. Open a 3mm jump ring, loop it through the crimp
6mm, two 110s, and 6mm (figure 1). bead at one end of the bracelet, and close the jump ring
2. Pick up two 110s, a 6mm, two 110s, a 6mm, two 110s, a (Basic Techniques).
6mm, and two 110s, and sew through the 6mm, two 110s, 12. Repeat step 11 on the opposite end of the bracelet.
6mm, two 110s, and 6mm. Sew through the 6mm, two 110s, 13. Open a 3mm jump ring, and connect the lobster clasp
6mm, two 110 seed beads, and 6mm (figure 2). and a 3mm jump ring on one end of the bracelet. Open a
3. Repeat step 2, noticing how this 6mm will be completed 3mm jump ring and attach the 3mm jump ring attached to
in the opposite direction as in the previous row (figure 3). the other end of the bracelet. Add additional jump rings to
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the bracelet has reached the this end of the bracelet to make it adjustable.
desired length, minus one unit. Add approximately ¾ in. 14. For a decorative touch, string a 6mm on a headpin and
(1.9cm) for the clasp. make a simple loop (Basic Techniques). Attach this dangle
5. For the last unit, pick up two 110s, a 6mm, an 110, a 6mm, to the last jump ring on the bracelet.
an 110, a 6mm, and two 110s, and sew through the 6mm,
two 110s, 6mm, and 110 (figure 4, a–b). tips
6. Pick up four 110s, a crimp bead, and four 110s, skip the • When making a bracelet as a gift, bead a short bracelet
next 6mm, and sew through the following 110, 6mm, and (approximately 6 in./15cm) and add jump rings or 1 in.
110 (b–c). (2.5cm) of metal chain to one end to make it adjustable.
7. Pick up a 2mm rondelle, and sew through the second • I used heavy Fireline for this project to fill in the larger
110, 6mm, and 110 along the edge of the bracelet (figure 5, hole of the 6mm jasper beads, which aids in tight tension
a–b). control, and helps keep the thread from breaking.
8. Work as in step 7, adding rondelles along the entire • I used jasper round beads because I love the natural and
length of the bracelet, adding and ending thread as needed earthy look against the sparkly crystals. Any 6mm round
(Basic Techniques) (b–c). bead would work; try using crystal pearls or polished
gemstone rounds.
90
d
b
c
a
figure 4
6mm round bead
6mm round
2x3mm rondelle
2mm rondelle
11 seedbead
11o0 seed bead
a
c b
Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
d
Supplies
• 8 6mm crystal pearls
• 6 4mm crystal pearls
• 8 4mm bicone crystals
• 8 3mm bicone crystals
• 1g 110 seed beads
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 2 3mm jump rings
• Pair of earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
92
93
tip
• Make a bracelet by working in right-angle
weave with the same size bicone crystals and
crystal pearls, like the design variation shown
on p. 4.
Supplies
• 6 8mm crystal pearls
c • 8 6mm bicone crystals
a
• 8 4mm crystal pearls
• 8 4mm bicone crystals
b • 6 3mm crystal pearls
• 8 3mm bicone crystals
figure 1 figure 2
• 1g 110 seed beads
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 2 3mm jump rings
• Pair of earring wires
8mm
8mmcrystal pearl
crystal pearl • Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
6mm
6mm bicone
crystal crystal
bicone • 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
94
Supplies
collar, 18 in. (46cm)
• 128 3mm bicone crystals
• 12g 80 seed beads
• 39g 60 seed beads
• 2 3mm jump rings, unsoldered
• 12mm lobster clasp
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 2 crimp covers
• 22 in. (56cm) .018-in. beading wire,
49-strand count
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 10
• Wire cutters
• Crimping pliers
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
95
3mm crystal
3mm bicone bicone
crystal
e c
f
d b
b
a c a
figure 1 figure 2
b d
e c
c
a b
figure 3 figure 4
Make the collar 7. Following a RAW thread path, sew through two 80s in the
1. Determine the desired length of the finished necklace last unit (figure 2, a–b), pick up three 60 seed beads, and
and cut a piece of beading wire 4 in. (10cm) longer. sew through the last 80 in the previous row and the first 60
2. String a jump ring and a crimp bead on the beading wire. picked up in this step.
With crimping pliers, crimp the crimp bead, leaving a 8. Pick up two 60s, and sew through the corresponding 80,
short tail of beading wire, no longer than 1 in. (2.5cm) three 60s, and an 80 (b–c).
(Basic Techniques, p. 9). Cover the crimp with a crimp cover. 9. Pick up two 60s, and sew through a 60, an 80, and a
3. String 80 seed beads on the beading wire in increments 60 (c–d).
of three, covering the beading wire, to the desired 10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for the entire length of the
necklace length. necklace (d–e).
4. String the lobster clasp and a crimp bead on the beading 11. Sew through a 60, pick up three 60s, and sew through
wire. With crimping pliers, crimp the crimp bead, leaving two 60s (figure 3, a–b).
¼ in. (6mm) of space between the last strung 80 and the 12. Pick up two 60s, and sew through five 60s (b–c).
crimp bead. (This space will disappear as the RAW rows are 13. Pick up two 60s, and sew through three 60s (c–d).
beaded.) Cover the crimp with a crimp cover, and hide the 14. Repeat steps 12 and 13 for the entire length of the
beading wire tails in the 80s. necklace (d–e), ending and adding thread as needed
5. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread, (Basic Techniques).
leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail (Basic Techniques). Secure the 15. Exiting an 80 from the first row of RAW, pick up a
thread in the 80s on the beading wire, and exit the second 3mm bicone crystal and sew through a 60 (figure 4, a–b).
strung 80 on the beading wire. Pick up three 80s and sew 16. Continue picking up a crystal and sewing through
through three 80s in the row of 80s on the wire (figure 1, a–b). the next 60 for the entire length of the necklace (b–c).
6. Work as in step 5 until you reach the end of the strung End the threads.
beads (b–c).
96
97
98
Supplies
• 0.5g O-beads
• 1g 150 seed beads, color A
• 2g 150 seed beads, color B
• 1x1 in. (2.5x2.5cm) beading foundation
• ¾-in. (1.9cm)-wide leather cuff bracelet
• 30mm screw-back bezel
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• Scissors
• E6000 adhesive
• 1.8mm leather hole punch
• Flush cutters
• Ruler
99
15
150o seed bead,color
seed bead, colorAA
o
150 seed
seed bead, figure 1
15 bead,color
colorBB
figure 2
Bead embroider on beading 8. Following along the curve of the O-bead, continue
foundation adding Bs as described in step 7, making sure to stay within
1. Copy and cut out the circle template, and trace it on the traced circle.
the beading foundation (figure 1). (Note: The side of the
beading foundation with the circle tracing is the front and note
the blank side is the back.) When adding the last few beads to the row around
2. Thread a needle with a comfortable length of thread, and the O-bead, two beads will not always fit. Pick up and
tie a double knot at the end, leaving a 1-in. (2.5cm) tail. backstitch only the amount of beads that will fit on the
3. Sew the needle through the beading foundation, back to foundation (figure 4).
front, until the knot is tight against the back of the beading
foundation. 9. Sew through the foundation, front to back, and position
4. Pick up an O-bead and a color A 150 seed bead. Skip the the needle above the last bead added. Sew through the
A, and sew through the O-bead and the foundation, front to foundation, back to front. Backstitch As, following the curve
back (figure 2). (This is called a stop stitch; the A stops the of the previous seed beads as in step 7.
O-bead from coming loose.) 10. Sew through the foundation, front to back, and
5. Retrace the thread path twice to ensure the O-bead position the needle above the last bead added and then
lays flat against the foundation. Your needle should be sew through the foundation, back to front. Backstitch Bs,
on the back. following the curve of the previous seed beads. This creates
6. Position the needle on the circle to one side of the an O-bead arch.
O-bead, sew through the foundation, back to front, and 11. Continue adding O-beads as in step 4 and
pick up two color B 150 seed beads. Push the beads all the backstitching A and B 150s around the O-bead as in
way down to the foundation, and arrange them around the steps 5–8 until the entire circle on the foundation is filled
O-bead. Sew down through the foundation and then up with bead embroidery, ending and adding thread as
through the foundation and the two Bs just added (figure 3, needed. Stop-stitch an O-bead wherever two O-bead
a–b). (This is called a backstitch.) arches intersect.
7. Work another backstitch using two Bs. Sew up through
the beading foundation and through the last three Bs just note
added (b–c). After all O-bead arches have been added, there might be
small spaces left without beads within the circle. Stop-stitch
an additional O-bead and/or backstitch with 150(s) to fill in
the space.
100
figure 4
101
Additional Supplies
• 30mm single loop circle bezel
• 18 in. (46cm) metal chain, fine cable
• 9mm jump ring, unsoldered
• Lobster clasp
102
Supplies
• 2 12mm rivolis
• 1g 110 cylinder beads
• 0.5g 110 seed beads
• 0.5g 150 seed beads
• 2 28.5mm large circle earrings
• 1x1 in. (2.5x2.5cm) piece of beading
foundation
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• Scissors
• E6000 adhesive
103
figure 3
Make the earrings and second cylinder, and sew through the second, third, and
1. Cut out the circle template and trace it on the beading fourth cylinders (b–c).
foundation (figure 1). (The side of the foundation with the 7. Repeat step 5, sewing up through the foundation
circle tracing is the front and the blank side is the back.) between the third and fourth cylinder (c–d).
2. Cut a very small “+” into the center of the foundation. 8. Continue backstitching two cylinders around the rivoli
This cut allows the back point of the rivoli to poke through as described in step 5. Note that every backstitch has two
the foundation so the sides of the rivoli are flush with the cylinders being added to the foundation and the last three
foundation. Glue the rivoli to the foundation and let it dry. cylinders on the foundation are just sewn through without
3. Tie a triple knot at the end of a comfortable length of adding any new beads. Continue this step until the rivoli is
thread, leaving a 1-in. (2.5cm) tail. surrounded by cylinders—a total of 30 beads.
9. Exiting the last cylinder added, pick up a cylinder, skip
note the next cylinder from the previous row, and sew through
The knot prevents the tail thread from passing through the the next cylinder. Repeat this step all the way around the
bottom side of the beading foundation. (I find a triple knot rivoli (figure 3). (Note that the stitch being used here is
usually does the trick.) peyote stitch.)
10. After the last cylinder is added (figure 4, a–b), step up
4. Sew through the foundation from back to front at the by sewing through the first cylinder added in step 8 (b–c).
edge of the rivoli. (It does not matter where, as long as the 11. Pick up a 150 seed bead, and sew through the next
thread exits right next to the edge.) “up” cylinder from the previous row. Continue adding 150s
5. Pick up two 110 cylinder beads, and pull them snug this way, all around the rivoli. The beadwork should “cup”
against the foundation, positioning them next to the rivoli. inward around the rivoli after this row is beaded.
Sew the thread through the foundation right next to where 12. Sew through the beadwork to exit the back of the
the second cylinder rests. Sew up through the foundation foundation. Tie a few knots to secure the thread.
where the first cylinder rests, and sew through the first and 13. Sew up through the foundation from back to front to
second cylinder (figure 2, a–b). exit next to the edge of the cylinder bead row.
6. Pick up two cylinders, and pull them snug against 14. Repeat steps 5–7 with 110s, stitching around the first
the foundation, positioning them next to the rivoli and row of cylinders. Because this row is not a base row for the
previously added cylinders. Sew the thread through the peyote stitch, it can have an odd number of beads. Use as
foundation right next to where the second cylinder rests, many beads as snugly fit around the base row of cylinders in
continue up through the foundation in between the first this step (figure 5).
104
figure 5
Radiant Ring
Turn these rivoli earrings into a sparkly statement
ring, which is made using the same template and
techniques.
15. Sew through the back side of the foundation, and tie a
few knots to secure the thread. Cut the tail thread less than
Additional Supplies
1 in. (2.5cm) from the knot. Trim the foundation so it is flush
with the beadwork.
16. Apply a small amount of glue to the back of the • 21.5mm large circle adjustable
foundation, making sure the knots are covered with glue,
ring blank
too. Place the bead embroidered component into the
earring bezel and let dry.
17. Repeat to make a second earring.
Refer to the Radiant Rivoli Earrings, p. 103.
tips Simply follow the steps to make a bead
• Whenever you are backstitching the first row of a embroidered component, and then glue into
peyote bezel around something on foundation, be sure a metal ring blank, just as the main project’s
to have an even number of beads encircle the object components were glued into an earring bezel.
to be bezeled. This ensures even rows of peyote stitch
for a consistent bezel.
• If you find your tension is too loose and the beadwork
is not “cupping around” the rivoli after you’ve added
the row of 150s, retrace your thread path through the
rows of 150s and cylinders, pulling tightly. That should
help tighten the beads around the rivoli.
• Bead embroidery projects often include multiple
beadweaving stitches and are broken up into sections.
I like to knot my thread at the bottom of the foundation
after I complete each section. Doing this ensures each
section is individually secured to the foundation and also
lets me remove sections if I change my mind without
worrying that the rest of the project will come undone.
105
106
d
c b
a
figure 1
107
b c
a
e fd a
c
figure 4 figure 5
foundation right next to where the last cylinder rests. Sew Finish the bead embroidery
up through the foundation between the first and second 17. Trim the foundation so it is flush with the beadwork.
cylinder, and continue through the second, third, and Apply a small amount of glue to the back of the foundation,
fourth cylinder (b–c). Repeat this step, backstitching two making sure the knots are covered with glue and place on a
cylinders around the button and sewing through the last piece of Ultrasuede, leaving a ¼-in. (6mm) border from the
three cylinders added, until the entire button is surrounded edge free from glue. Trim the Ultrasuede so it is flush with
with cylinders. (My 27mm button has 60 cylinders.) the beadwork.
6. Step up by sewing through the first cylinder added in 18. Tie a triple knot at one end of a comfortable length
this row (c–d). of thread, leaving a ¼-in. (6mm) tail. Sew between the
7. Pick up a cylinder, skip the next cylinder from the Ultrasuede and foundation from back to front. The knot
previous row, and sew through the following cylinder. should nestle between the foundation layer and the
Repeat this step, adding one cylinder at a time, all the way Ultrasuede layer (figure 6, point a).
around the button (figure 2, a–b). (Note the stitch being 19. Pick up two 110s, and push them down to the end of
used here is peyote stitch.) the thread along the edge of the beadwork, holes facing
8. Step up by sewing through the first cylinder added in this upward. Sew through the Ultrasuede and foundation from
row (b–c). back to front, right underneath the hole of the second 110
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 for a third and fourth row (figures and less than a seed bead’s width apart from the edge. Sew
3 and 4), being sure to step up through the first cylinder up through the second 110 just added (a–b). Note that the
added in each row (see “Tips”). stitch being used here is brick stitch.
10. Exiting the first cylinder added in the last row, pick up 20. Pick up an 110, and push it down to the end of thread
a 150 seed bead, and sew through the next “up” cylinder so it is laying along the edge of the beadkwork, holes facing
from the previous row. Continue adding 150s this way, all upward. Sew through the Ultrasuede and foundation from
around the button. The beadwork should “cup” inward back to front, right underneath the hole of the 110 and
around the button after this row is beaded (figure 5, a–b). less than a seed bead’s width apart from the edge. Sew up
11. Sew through the beadwork to exit the back of the through the 110 just added (b–c).
foundation. Tie a few knots to secure the thread. 21. Repeat step 20, adding 110s all the way around the
12. Sew through the foundation from back to front, exiting entire edge of the beadwork (c–d).
next to the edge of the cylinder row (b–c). 22. After the last 110 is brick stitched along the edge of
13. Pick up a 3mm pearl, and pull it snug against the the beadwork, secure the very first 110 added in step 19
foundation. Sew down through the foundation and back by sewing down through the first 110 and through the
up where the pearl rests. Sew through the pearl (c–d). foundation and ultrasude from front to back, and sew up
14. Repeat step 13, adding pearls around the row of through the first 110 (d–e).
cylinders. Use as many beads as snugly fit around the
base row of cylinders in this step (d–e). Bead a pendant bail and assemble
15. Sew through the very first pearl added in this row to the necklace
snug the pearls together (e–f). 23. Pick up seven 110s, and sew down through the fourth
16. Sew through to the back of the foundation, and tie a 110 in the brick stitched edge (e–f). Retrace the thread path
few knots to secure the thread. Cut the tail thread less to reinforce the connection.
than 1 in. (2.5cm) from the knot.
108
figure 6
Additional Supplies
back is level with the bottom of the shank.
• The initial peyote backstitched row MUST have an even
number of beads. If you only have enough room to add
• 38 4mm bicone crystals
one bead instead of two when you get to the end of the
• 1g 80 seed beads
initial row, don’t add any. Instead, sew through the very
first bead added in the initial row to snug the beads close • .5g 150 seed beads
around the button. The pearl row will hide any spaces.
• The idea is to secure the button to the foundation and
give it a beaded bezel. You want the last row of 150s
to close around the button, so the very last row of 110s 1. Refer to the Bead Embroidered Button Pendant, p. 107.
added should stick up slightly past the top of the button. Work as in steps 1–20. Work as in step 21 using 80 seed
When the row of 150s is added, the last two rows curl in beads instead of 110s.
and hold the button in place. 2. Exiting an 80 added along the brick stitch edge, pick up
a 4mm bicone crystal and three 150 seed beads. Sew back
through the crystal and 80, and sew up through the next 80
(figure, a–b).
3. Repeat step 2 all around the brick stitch edge (b–c),
leaving three 80s unembellished to bead a loop to attach
4mm bicone a neckstrap.
4mm crystal bicone
crystal 4. Pick up nine 150s, and sew down through the last 80
b on the edge, next to the first embellished 80 from step 2.
880o seed bead
seed bead Retrace the thread path to reinforce the connection. End
a
the thread.
15
150o seed bead
seed bead
c tip
figure • You will start to notice a slight back-and-forth placement
as the crystals nestle along the edge of the bead
embroidery. Because of their size, they will not lay right
next to each other. Use your fingers to move them into
place so one crystal is forward and the next is backward.
109
To my best bead buddy, Betsy Moerder, I thank you so much for being my constant
cheerleader, steadfast supporter, and cherished friend. Thank you for encouraging me to
pursue the opportunity to write this book at a time I thought I couldn’t and for waving me
on until the very last page was written.
To Becky Nunn, for inspiring and nurturing my creativity; I’m so thankful for your mentorship
and heartfelt guidance. You are one of my biggest advocates in letting my creativity shine
and have helped me significantly in finding ways to share it with others. You were the
catalyst for setting me forth on my public bead journey, and your belief in me and my
beadwork planted the seed for this book.
To Dr. Greg Logan and the entire team at Platinum Healthcare in Sarasota, FL, for helping
to heal my back and in turn, my life. I’m able to bead long hours into the night with better
posture and significantly less pain, and for that, I’m eternally grateful.
To my Eagle Rock Five Girls, my Thursday Night Beading Group, and my other bead
buddies, thank you for sharing laughter and light during late-night beading sessions over
wine and chocolate chip cookies.
To Phyllis Fogel, my very first beadweaving instructor, who introduced me to the wonderful
world of stitching with beads to make beautiful jewelry. My Angular Aztec bracelet was
inspired by the very first peyote bracelet you taught me to bead. After my first class with
you at the Baum School in Allentown, PA at just 16 years old, I was hooked!
To Diane Bacha for so graciously taking the time to listen to me talk about my love of
beadwork and desire to write this beadweaving book with Kalmbach upon our very first
introduction. Thank you for this opportunity to share my passion with others.
To my Kalmbach editor, Erica Barse, for so eloquently directing me and the rest of the
Kalmbach team on the path of this book journey— thank you for your guidance in giving
this book life and bringing it forth into the world.
To Lisa Schroeder, Bill Zuback, Kellie Jaeger, Janice Zimdars, Nanette Fox, Terri Meunier,
and all the other teammates at Kalmbach Publishing—thank you for your contributions in
making this book what it is.
To all my bead students throughout the years who have beaded with me on this journey,
thank you for being brave enough to take a class with me and for helping to shape my
beading life. I’m so grateful for the beautiful friendships beading has brought into my life.
To all the bead shop owners who invited me to teach at their shops and bead with their
customers, thank you. You are the gathering place and provider for this sacred ritual of
beading, and we would be lost without you.
110
I encourage you to take a beadweaving class. It’s a terrific way to receive hands-on
instruction, learn from an experienced beader who knows her craft, and meet other
people who share your interest in beading. Go online to find local bead stores, craft
stores, bead shows—all of which most likely offer bead classes. Make a beading
trip out of it—grab some girlfriends and travel to a national convention or show
that offers classes you might like. Do a search for local bead societies in your area.
Many societies gather monthly and are a great way to meet fellow bead enthusiasts,
learn new skills, and make new friends.
111
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4, which pendants, rings, ropes, and bracelets
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al for an • Complete step-by-step instructions and illustrations illustrations
given this opportunity to create projects committing to a 40-hour necklace and the
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I’m always trying to find an hour or project ideas for an afternoon, evening, or
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JAKICIC
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