Mahindra XYLO MEagle Repair - Manual MAN 00052 Rev 1

REPAIR MANUAL
mEagle

MAN-00052
Rev 1

914xxxR010209EN-RM
RELEASED BY -
TECHNICAL PUBLICATION CELL

MAHINDRA & MAHINDRA LTD.
www.teknetmahindra.com Rev1 – JANUARY 2009
All information contained in this manual is most up-to-date at the time of publication. However, specifications and procedures
are subject to change without notice. This manual is strictly meant for restricted internal circulation within M&M Authorized
dealer service centers.
© 2009 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced or copied, in whole or in part, without
the written permission of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.

ABOUT THE REPAIR MANUAL
This repair manual is subdivided in to various groups/aggregates. Each section contains the diagnostic,
disassembly, repair, and installation procedures, along with complete specifications and tightening torques.
Use of this manual will aid in properly performing any service necessary to maintain or restore the high
level of performance designed in to the XYLO vehicle.
Each section is further divided in to sub-sections –
• Description section gives an overview of the functioning of the system /aggregate.

• Trouble shooting section details a generic trouble shooting tree for major problems
• Care of the system details the maintenance and adjustments, if any , to be carried out on the
system to keep it functioning at its best performance level.
• In-car repair outlines the procedure to carryout minor repairs/adjustments without removing the
aggregate from the vehicle.
• Dismantling/overhauling section covers the detailed process and procedures to be followed ,
while repairing the specific aggregate/system. This is generally carried out after removing the
aggregate/system from the vehicle.
• Working principle of various systems details the principles of operation of various subsystems in
the vehicle. It is very important to understand the working principles so that quick and accurate
diagnosis can be carried out on malfunctioning systems.
• Specifications/wear data provides information on the dimensions of a new part as well as how
much wear can be tolerated on a specific part, respectively.
• Lubricants & sealants is a list of recommended & approved parts for use in the XYLO vehicle.
• Tightening torques is the specified torque values for all crucial fasteners in the XYLO vehicle.
• Mahindra Special Tools (MST) lists out the special tools to be used in the service and repair of a
XYLO.
The proper performance of service is essential for both the safety of the technician and the efficient
functioning of the vehicle. The service methods in this repair manual are described in such a manner that
the service may be performed safely and accurately. Service varies with the procedures used, the skills of
the technician and the tools & Parts available. Accordingly, anyone using service procedures, tools or parts
which are not specifically recommended by MAHINDRA must first completely satisfies himself/herself that
neither his/her safety nor the vehicle’s safety will be jeopardized by the service method selected.
In spite of our best efforts to make the manual error-free, a few errors could have inadvertently crept in. If
you identify errors, functional or typographical , please inform your TEKline or pillay.ajay@mahindra.com.
Suggestions to improve the manual and make it more user-friendly are also welcome.

Table of Contents
Engine - 2.49 L mEagle
Engine Support Systems
Air Intake System
Cooling System
Fuel System
Emission Control System
Clutch
Gear Box - NGT 530R- 2WD
Propeller Shaft
Front Suspension
Rear Suspension
Brakes
Body
Chassis
Rear Axle
Wheel & Tyres

Repair Manual MAN-00052
Xylo mEagle Jan 2009/Rev 1
mEagle-1
2.49L mEagle Engine
All copyrights reserved by

The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by
the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of whole of the present
document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of © 2009 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
mEagle-2
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine.
Working principle of various sub systems of the Engine
Specifications & Wear Data
Lubricants & Sealants- Grades
Tightening Torque’s
List of the MST
Torque sequence

mEagle-3
Description
The 2.49-liter Turbocharged and intercooled common rail direct injected diesel
engine with a bore of 94 mm and stroke of 90 mm develop 112 BHP at 3800 RPM
and a torque of 240 Nm (24 Kg m) at 1700 to 3000 RPM.
A waste gated turbocharger controls the boost to 2.2 bar. The compressed air is
cooled by the charge intercooler which is mounted upstream of the turbocharger. The
cooled air enters the inlet manifold’s plenum and it enters the Cast iron cylinder head
through the inlet valves having a 45-degree angle.
The piston features re-entrant type combustion chamber and having ferrous ring
insert in the Top ring groove. A 3-ring pack is used. The top ring is asymmetrical
barrel face and with CKS coating and keystone shape. The 2nd ring is taper faced.
The 3rd is Conformable Oil Ring. The piston is having an offset of 0.5 mm.
The forged connecting rod is connected to induction-hardened crankshaft. The small

end of the connecting rod is trapezoidal shaped to reduce the mass as well as to
ensure higher loading. The crankshaft is induction hardened with the filets hardened
& ground. The flywheel has a shrunk fit ring gear and also a ball bearing to act as
pilot for the gearbox input shaft. The front end is having a rubber moulded dampener
pulley
The high pressure pump & camshaft are chain driven.

mEagle-4
Care of the System -

The performance of the engine is dependent on ensuring that the following
maintenance is carried out as per the schedule without fail.
Accessory Belt: To be checked and adjusted at 60,000 & 80,000Kms. To be

replaced at every 100,000 Kms.
Auto Tensioner: To be checked and adjust at 60,000 & 80,000Kms. To be replaced

at every 100,000 Kms.
Air cleaner: The element should be replaced at every 60,000 Kms or when red
indicator band shows. For the detailed procedure, refer to the Air Intake System.
Oil: The oil should conform to CH4 grade and with a viscosity Index of 15W40. It
should be kept in mind that in the turbocharger engine the oil has to have do an
additional load of lubricating and cooling the Turbocharger shaft If any oil of lower
specification is used it can break down under the high thermal load at the turbine end
of the shaft especially during the hot shutdown.
This oil grade also ensures that the oil consumption is within the desire limits. Use
Maximile Supreme Grade of oils. The Oil change intervals are first at 5000 Kms. &
then subsequently every 15000 Kms.
Cooling system: Ensure that no leakages are present. For details of the coolant and
ratio refer the Cooling System.
Turbocharger: The engine is having an exhaust gas driven turbocharger. The

turbocharger shaft speed varies from about 40, 000 when engine is idling to about
1, 70,000 when the engine is having the full rated RPM.
EGR: On vehicles fitted with EGR system the following additional points check have
to be done during scheduled maintenance.
If the pipes are removed then it is essential that while fitting back; new gaskets to be
used. EGR pipe has to be removed from both the ends. Do not open the pipe from
one end only; it will cause the pipe to twist.
• Check for any exhaust gas leakage through sealing faces, EGR pipe.
Formation of any black soot indicates leakage.
• Check the vacuum hoses for any leaks, cracks.
• Retighten all nuts and bolts as per the recommend torque.
Tappet setting is not required since hydraulic lash lift adjuster is used.

mEagle-5
In Car Repairs -
Description Page Description Page

# #
NVH Cover & Intercooler - R&R 6 Exhaust Manifold – R&R 43
Battery & Cables - CHECK 7 High Pressure Pump – R&R 44
Starter Motor – R&R 8 Engine Front Cover – R&R 46
Cooling Fan & Shroud - R&R 9 Engine Front Oil Seal – R&R 48
Cooling Fan – CHECK 11 Oil Pressure Sensor – R&R 49
Cooling Hoses – R&R 12 Oil Filter – R&R 50
Coolant Temp Sensor – R&R 13 Oil Cooler Line – R&R 51
Radiator Bottom Shield – R&R 14 Oil Cooler – R&R 52
Vacuum Hoses – R&R 15 Engine Oil Level – CHECK 53
Stg. Pump Drive Belt – R&R 16 Flywheel & Ring – R&R 54
Stg. Pump Drive Belt Tension – 16 Engine Rear Oil Seal – R&R 55
ADJUST
Accessory Drive Belt – R&R 17 Eng Rear Oil Plug – R&R 56
Auto Tensioner – R&R 21 Fuel Filter – Drain Water 57
Oil Separator hoses – R&R 23 Fuel Filter – R&R 58
Oil Separator – R&R 24 Air Filter – R&R 59
AC Compressor hose – R&R 25 Radiator Front Grill – R&R 60
AC Compressor – R&R 26 Radiator – R&R 62
Alternator – R&R 27 Rocker Arm Assy. – R&R 63
Exhaust Pipe – R&R 28 Rocker Arm – R&R 64
Turbocharger –R&R 29 Camshaft – R&R 65
Common Rail – R&R 30 Chain Assembly – R&R 66
Injector – R&R 31 Chain Assy. components – R&R 67
Rocker Cover – R&R 32 Oil Sump – R&R 70
EGR Valve & EGR pipe - R&R 33 Oil Pump – R&R 71
Thermostat Valve – R&R 34 Piston Assy. – R&R 82
Thermostat Valve – CHECK 35 Connecting Rod – R&R 83
Thermostat Housing – R&R 36 Crankshaft – R&R 84
Power Steering Oil Hose – R&R 37 Cylinder Head – R&R 79
Power Steering Pump – R&R 38 Bell Housing – DISCONNECT 72
Water Pump – R&R 39 Engine Insulator Front – R&R 73
Coolant Level – CHECK 40 Engine Insulator Rear – R&R 74
Coolant - REPLACEMENT 41 Engine – R&R 75
Intake Manifold – R&R 42

mEagle-6
NVH cover & intercooler – R&R
Nut/ Bolt description Torque Value – Nm.
NVH Cover mtg. bolt 07 ± 02
Intercooler mtg. bolts 22 ± 02
Hose clamp
05 ±0.5
Removal Steps – Assembly Procedure –

1. Remove NVH cover. 1. Refit intercooler assembly.
2. Remove intercooler hoses. 2. Refit intercooler hoses.
3. Remove intercooler assembly. 3. Refit NVH cover.

mEagle-7
Battery & Cables – R&R
Check Battery condition for –

1. Check Battery electrolyte level visually with respect to ‘Max’ level indication; and top
up if found less (do not exceed ‘Max’!).
2. Check and ensure the Specific Gravity# using Hydrometer.
Check the connections at –

• Battery Terminals for correctness & Tightness.
• Battery Earth for correctness & Tightness.
Refer above illustration –
Removal Steps and additional check points for Battery:
1. Remove Battery terminals.

2. Remove Battery mounting bracket and battery.
3. Remove battery cables from other end.

mEagle-8
Starter motor– R&R

Starter motor mtg. bolt 15± 02
Removal Steps –
Refer illustration shown above.

Remove battery terminals.
Remove connections on starter motor.
Remove starter motor mounting bolts.
Remove starter motor

mEagle-9
Cooling fan & shroud– R&R
NVH Cover mtg. bolt 07± 02
Cooling Fan 45± 05
Cooling Fan – Front View Cooling Fan – Rear View
Removal Procedure –
1. Remove Coolant reservoir tank.
2. Loosen the cooling fan nut on rear side mounted on water pump. Refer above
sketches.
3. Press the upper lock and Lift Shroud in upward direction to remove, refer
illustration shown. Fan and shroud assembly can now take out of engine
compartment.
4. The fan blade assembly and the VFD assembly can be removed together.
1 3

mEagle-10
Note that the threads are anticlockwise threads. Hence to loosen then the
direction of rotation has to be clockwise when viewed from front.
Do not tamper or service the center portion of the fan.
The nut should rest on pulley after tightening.

mEagle-11
Cooling fan function– CHECK
COOLING FAN FUNCTION – CHECK
1. First check fan blades for damage or cracks, if noticed replace fan.
2. Ensure that fluid in fan clutch is not leaking. In case of leak, the fluid quantity
must decrease and so fan speed will decrease and engine may overheat.
3. Check bimetal strip for damage.
4. Rotate fan by hand, if it give some sense of resistance the fan is ok. If fan turns
lightly, it is faulty.

mEagle-12
Cooling hoses– R&R
Refer above illustrations A & B.

1. Remove coolant hose connected from radiator to thermostat.
2. Remove coolant hose connected from water pump to
radiator.
Coolant drain and refilling are the additional activities to be
done.

mEagle-13
Water temperature sensor– R&R
Pre removal activity –

Battery terminal removal.
Draining of coolant.
Post fitment activity –

Check and add coolant, if required.
Removal Steps –
Remove NVH cover.
Disconnect battery terminal.
Disconnect socket on temperature sensor.
Remove radiator upper hose connected on thermostat housing.
Remove coolant hose on thermostat housing connected to oil cooler.
Remove Temperature sensor.

mEagle-14
Radiator bottom shield– R&R
Remove three mounting bolts fitted on shield to front cross member and
adjacent member to remove radiator bottom shield.

mEagle-15
Vaccum hoses– R&R
1 2
Refer illustrations shown –

1. Vacuum hose removal
from Vacuum pump fitted
on Alternator.
2. Remove vacuum hose
connected on Air intake
hose.
3. Remove vacuum hose
from brake booster NRV.
4. Remove hose on EGR
3 valve.

mEagle-16
Power steering belt– Replace and Adjust Tension.
POWER STEERING BELT – REPLACE

Refer illustrations.
1. Remove NVH cover, Fan and Shroud.
2. Loosen pump fixing bolts 1 & 2 and loosen the lock nut 3.
3. Unscrew bolt 4 to release drive belt tension.
4. Remove power steering pump drive belt.
5. Refer belt tensioning procedure while refitting steering pump drive belt.
Check belt tension, correct if required.
Procedure for belt tensioning:

1. Loosen pump fixing bolts 1 & 2 And Loosen the Lock Nut 3
2. Screw tension bolt 4 as shown in fig to tighten the belt by appropriate amount.
3. Check tension value, should be between 230 – 235 Hz, if found less, screw in
clockwise direction, if found more than 235Hz unscrew in anticlockwise
direction
4. Final set value should be 230- 235 Hz.
5. Tighten the fixing Bolts 1 & 2 to 25 N-m & Lock Nut 3 to 20 N-m

mEagle-17
Accessory main drive belt– R&R
Cooling Fan mtg. nut 45± 05

Refer illustration shown. 1. Refit accessory drive belt.
1. Remove NVH cover. 2. Refit power steering drive belt.
1. Remove Fan & shroud. (Follow SOP)
2. Remove power stg. Drive belt. 3. Refit Fan & shroud.
(Refer SOP) 4. Check both belt tensions.
3. Remove accessory drive belt. 5. Refit NVH barrier.
Check the drive belts visually for any crack, fraying.

Refer specifications and follow Torque chart while assembling.

mEagle-18
Accessory drive belt & PS belt layout -
REFER BELOW SKETCH FOR CORRECT FITMENT OF ACCESSORY MAIN DRIVE BELT
AND STEERING PUMP DRIVE BELT.

mEagle-19
Accessory drive belt– CHECK
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TO BE
CHECK FOR –
Refer illustrations below.

1. Abrasion
2. Cracking
3. Improper Install
4. Uneven Rib Wear
5. Misalignment
6. Chunk-out
7. Gravel penetration
8. Pilling
Refer illustrations shown.

1. Abrasion – Each side of belt appears shiny or glazed. In advanced stages,
fabric becomes exposed.
2. Cracking – Small, yet visible cracks along the length of a rib or ribs.
3. Improper Install – A belt rib begins separating from the joined strands. If
left unattended, the cover will often separate, causing the belt to loosen.
4. Uneven Rib Wear – 5. Misalignment –

Refer illustration shown. Refer illustration shown.
Belt shows damage to the side Sidewalls of the belt may appear glazed or
with the possibility of breaks in the edge cord may become frayed and ribs
the tensile cord or rough edged removed. A noise may result. In severe
ribs. A thumping noise may also cases, the belt can jump off the pulley.
be heard when running.

mEagle-20

6. Chunk Out – Pieces or chunks of rubber material have broken off from the
belt. When chunk-out has occurred, a belt can fall at any moment.
7. Gravel Penetration – Small pinholes are visible on the backside of the belt.
Bumps may be visible and the fabric around the holes can be frayed.
8. Pilling – Belt material is sheared off from the ribs and builds up in the belt
grooves.

mEagle-21
Auto tensioner– R&R
Auto tensioner mtg. 35 ± 05
bolt
Idler mtg. bolt 35 ± 05

1. Remove NVH cover. 1. Refit Auto tensioner assy.
2. Remove fan & shroud 2. Refit Accessory drive belt (914-
3. Remove power steering belt(914- MAT-0007) & power steering belt
MAT-0029) & Accessory drive (914-MAT-0029)
belt (914-MAT-0007) 3. Refit fan & shroud.
4. Remove Auto tensioner assy. 4. Refit NVH cover.

mEagle-22
Auto tensioner - CHECK
Auto Tensioner Inspection:

Refer illustration shown.
Inspect automatic tensioner carefully for symptoms such as cracked arms,

excessive vibration during idle speeds, looseness, noise (clatter or rattling) and
sticking or seized operation. These can all be signs that a tensioner needs
replacing.
If the lugs are touching each when the engine is running then it is an indication that
the auto tensioner has reached its service limit

mEagle-23
Oil separator hose/ breather – R&R
Removal Steps –
Refer above illustrations for breather hose

views in different angle, while fitted on
Engine.
1. Remove NVH cover, Intercooler
assembly.
2. Remove breather pipe connected
between oil separator & cyclone
separator.
between oil filer hose to oil
separator.
4. Remove cyclone separator.
between rocker cover to oil filer
TEE.
between cyclone separator to filler
hose.
7. Remove oil filer hoses.
8. Refer sketch for cyclone separator
fitment.

mEagle-24
Oil seprator – R&R
Oil separator mtg. bolts 07 ± 02
Removal Steps –
1. Remove NVH cover
2. Remove intercooler
hoses.
3. Remove intercooler
assembly.
4. Remove Oil separator
hoses.
5. Remove Oil separator.
Assembly Procedure –
1. Refit Oil separator.
2. Refit oil separator
hoses.
3. Refit intercooler
assembly.
4. Refit intercooler hoses.
5. Refit NVH cover.

mEagle-25
AC compressor suction & discharge line – R&R
Pre-removal activity – Removal Steps –

AC gas purging. Refer above illustrations.
Post fitment activity – 1. Removal of NVH cover, Intercooler
AC gas charging. assembly.
2. Removal of Fan and shroud.
3. Removal of both drive belts.
4. Removal of Hoses connected on AC
compressor.

mEagle-26
AC compressor – R&R
AC Compressor mtg. 25 ± 03
bolts
Compressor inlet & 15 ± 1.5
outlet joint bolts.

1. AC Gas purging. 1. Refit AC Compressor.
2. Remove NVH cover from the 2. Refit main drive belt & power
engine top. steering drive belt.
3. Remove fan & shroud 3. Refit fan, shroud & NVH cover.
4. Remove power stg. drive belt & 4. Recharge AC Gas in system
main drive belt. and check system for no
5. Remove connections on AC leakage.
compressor. 5. Check both drive belt tension.
6. Remove AC Compressor. 6. Check AC cooling
performance.
AC Gas capacity –
a) Single: 520 ± 20 gms.
b) Double: 750 ± 20 gms

mEagle-27
Alternator – R&R
Alternator mtg. bolts 25 ± 03
Alternator mtg. bolts 25 ± 03
Oil inlet banjo on Alt
15 ± 1.5
Vacuum banjo on
Alt 30 ± 03
Vacuum pump mtg. 18 ± 02
1 2
Removal Steps –
Refer above illustrations 1 & 2.
1. NVH cover removal.
2. Fan, shroud and drive belts removal.
3. Battery terminal and sockets on Alternator removal.
4. Alternator Vacuum hoses and Oil supply pipes removal.
5. Alternator mounting bolts removal.
Replace washer while refitting alternator oil supply banjo.

Check alternator oil return hose for kink, crack if any, replace if required.
Check alternator vacuum hoses for crack, leak if any. Correct if required.

mEagle-28
Exhaust pipe– R&R

Exhaust pipe mtg. nuts 25 ± 03
Refer illustration shown above -
Use recommended rust free if exhaust pipe bolts found jam.

Replace exhaust pipe joint gaskets whenever opened.
Check rubber hangers for crack, shift. Correct if required.

mEagle-29
Turbocharger – R&R
TC assy. mtg. nut 35 ± 03
Tail pipe mtg. nut 35 ± 03
TC oil supply banjo
30 ± 03
TC oil outlet pipe mtg.
bolt 30 ± 03

1. Remove NVH cover & intercooler 1. Replace gasket & Refit TC assy. on
assembly. exhaust manifold assembly.
2. Remove TC suction hose. 2. Replace washers, gaskets &
3. Remove exhaust tail pipe fitted reconnect oil supply & outlet banjo
on TC turbine. and pipes on TC assy.
4. Remove TC oil supply and oil 3. Refit exhaust tail pipe to TC
outlet banjo & pipes assy. turbine.
5. Remove TC assy. from exhaust 4. Refit TC suction hose.
manifold. 5. Refit intercooler assy. & NVH
cover.
6. Check for no exhaust gas leak.
• Always replace gasket fitted on turbocharger oil outlet pipe whenever it opened.
• Do not apply sealant on oil supply line joints of TC; it may block the oil supply.
• Check and ensure for no oil leak from any joint on oil supply & return pipe.
• Keep air intake hose clips intact to avoid foreign material/ body entry in intake
system.

mEagle-30
Common Rail Assembly – R&R
Nut/ Bolt description Torque Value –

Nm.
High pressure fuel line 25 ± 03
nuts.
CR assembly mtg. bolts 15 ± 02
Removal Steps –
1. Remove NVH cover.
2. Remove high pressure
pipe line on Common rail
& all injectors.
3. Remove high pressure
fuel line from CR to HP
pump.
4. Remove socket from CR
assy.
5. Remove CR assy.
1. Refit CR assembly.
2. Replace new high
pressure fuel lines on CR
to all injectors.
3. Replace new high
pressure fuel line on HP
pump to CR assy.
4. Reconnect socket on CR
assy.
5. Start engine & Check fuel
leak and engine
performance.
High pressure fuel pipes to be replaced once it is removed.

mEagle-31
Injector - R&R
Injector mtg. allen bolt 25 ± 03
Removal Steps –
Steps to remove Injector No.1, 2 or 3 –
(All cylinder numbering starts from Fan side)
1. Remove NVH cover & intercooler assembly.
2. Remove connector on Injector which is to be removed.
3. Remove HP fuel line connected on that Injector & Common rail.
4. Remove Injector assembly, No.1, 2 or 3.
Following additional activities to be done to remove Injector No. 4 –
5. Remove plenum appliqué & wiper motor along with linkages.
6. Remove sockets & fuel line connection on injector no. 4
7. Remove Injector no. 4.

mEagle-32
Rocker cover – R&R
Rocker Cover mtg. allen 22± 02
key & bolts 18 ± 02
Removal Steps –
2. Remove intercooler hoses.
3. Remove intercooler assembly.
4. Remove Oil separator hoses.
5. Remove Oil separator.
6. Remove Rocker cover with
gasket.
1. Check gasket for any damage.
2. Refit Rocker cover with gasket.
3. Refit Oil separator.
4. Refit oil separator hoses.
5. Refit intercooler assembly.
6. Refit intercooler hoses.
7. Refit NVH cover.
Start the engine and ensure no oil leak from rocker cover gasket, after completion of job.

mEagle-33
EGR valve & EGR pipe - R&R
EGR pipe mtg. allen key. 25 ± 03
EGR pipe mtg. allen key (intake side)
25 ± 03
EGR assembly mtg. bolts.
25 ± 03
1. Remove NVH cover & intercooler 1. Refit new EGR gasket.

assembly. 2. Refit EGR assembly on intake
1. Remove intake hose on manifold. manifold.
2. Remove EGR pipe mtg. brackets 3. Refit EGR Pipe along with new
on engine. gaskets.
3. Remove EGR Pipe assembly 4. Refit EGR pipe mtg. brackets on
from exhaust and intake manifold engine.
side. 5. Reconnect intake hose.
4. Remove EGR assembly. 6. Refit intercooler & NVH barrier
5. Remove EGR gasket on intake assembly.
manifold. 7. Check & insure for no leak of
exhaust gas from system.
Use recommended rust free solution if EGR pipe mounting bolts are found
jam.
Replace gasket while assembling EGR pipe.

mEagle-34
Thermostat valve– R&R /CHECK
Thermostat cap mtg. 15 ± 1.5
bolts
Removal Steps – Refer illustration shown.

1. Coolant drain.
2. Remove NVH cover, Intercooler assembly.
3. Remove radiator upper hose.
4. Remove thermostat valve body & thermostat.
5. Check thermostat valve functioning, refer SOP.
6. Check ‘O’ ring, replace if required.

mEagle-35
Thermostat valve – CHECK
Refer above illustration shown –

(Use hot plate, vessel with water, calibrated thermometer gauge)
Check the thermostat valve for no damage.

Check the valve for closes completely at normal/ atmospheric temperature.
Check the thermostat valve for rust free, clean if required.
Keep thermostat in water. Stir to raise the water temperature and check and
note thermostat opening temperature. Also check and note the temperature at
which the thermostat valve opens fully. The total lift should be approx. 9 mm.

mEagle-36
Thermostat housing –R&R

Thermostat housing 18 ± 02
mtg. bolts

1. Coolant drain. 1. Replace thermostat housing
2. Remove NVH cover, Fan & gasket.
shroud. 2. Refit thermostat hsg. Assy.
3. Remove intercooler assembly. 3. Reconnect coolant hoses.
4. Remove radiator upper hose. 4. Reconnect sensor socket.
5. Remove thermostat hoses and 5. Refit intercooler, Fan, shroud &
temperature sensor socket. NVH cover.
6. Remove thermostat housing 6. Add & Check coolant level,
assembly. Check both belt tensions.
Remove gasket from mounting surface on cylinder head.

Replace thermostat housing gasket whenever opened.

mEagle-37
Power Steering hose connection on pump – R&R
Removal Steps –
1. Remove oil supply hose connected on Steering oil pump.

2. Remove oil outlet pipe connected on Steering pump.
Steering oil drain and refilling are the additional activities to be done.
Check oil leak after completion of job.
System bleeding to be done after oil refilling.

mEagle-38
Power Steering Pump - R&R
Power stg. Pump 25 ± 03
mounting bolt
Oil supply banjo bolts 15 ± 02
Removal Steps –
1. Remove NVH cover, Fan,
shroud.
2. Remove both drive belts.
1. Remove damper pulley.
2. Remove Oil connections
on Power stg. Pump
assembly.
3. Remove Power stg. Pump
assembly.
1. Refit Power stg. Pump.
2. Refit damper pulley.
3. Reconnect oil hoses on
power stg. Pump.
4. Refit both drive belts.
5. Refit Fan, shroud & NVH
cover.
6. Check Power stg. oil level
and correct if required.
7. Check both drive belt
tension.
• Use recommended steering fluid only.

• Check steering belt for frying, crack if any. Replace if required.
• Check and ensure for proper belt tension after assembly.

mEagle-39
WATER PUMP - R&R

Water pump mtg. 25 ± 03
bolt

1. Remove NVH cover, Fan & 1. Replace water pump ‘O’ ring.
shroud. 2. Refit water pump assy.
2. Remove intercooler assembly. 3. Reconnect coolant hoses.
3. Remove both drive belts. 4. Reconnect Cam sensor socket.
4. Remove Cam sensor socket. 5. Refit both drive belts.
5. Remove coolant hoses on water 6. Refit intercooler, Fan, shroud &
pump assembly. NVH cover.
6. Remove water pump assy. 7. Add & Check coolant level,
Check both belt tensions.

mEagle-40
Coolant Level – check
MAX
1
MIN
3 4
Coolant Level - Check

1. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold.
2. Check the coolant level in the recovery tank [1] – it should be
between MAX and MIN marks. If below MIN, top it up with Maximile
Coolant.
3. Check the coolant level in the radiator [2] and top up if found less.
Use MAXIMILE Coolant directly from the container to top up.
Maximile Coolant is pre-mixed and hence do not dilute it with water.
4. Check for evidence of leakage at Water pump hose [3], Oil cooler
hose [4]. Radiator top and bottom hoses and HVAC heater hoses.

mEagle-41
Coolant - Replacement
1 2
Coolant – MAXIMILE Coolant

Capacity – 10 Liters.
Refer illustration shown 1 & 2.
1. Open the radiator cap

2. Remove the drain plug on the Engine block [2] and radiator bottom [1]
3. Drain the coolant and collect in drain tray.
4. Refit the drain plugs & fill new coolant in radiator
5. Check all the hoses & clips for leakage and correct fitment.
6. Start the engine and run at approx. 1200rpm for 2-3 min.
7. Check coolant level in radiator and add coolant as per requirement.
8. Fill coolant in the coolant recovery tank up to MAX level
9. Refit the radiator cap
10. Start the engine and run at approx. 1200rpm for 2-3 min.
11. Check coolant level in radiator and coolant recovery tank and add as required
Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot.

Never mix MAXIMILE coolant with water. Maximile coolant is premixed.

mEagle-42
Intake manifold – R&R
Intake manifold mtg. 30 ± 03
bolts and nuts.
Removal Steps –
1. Remove Intercooler
assy.
2. Remove EGR assy.
3. Remove all high presser
fuel lines & CR
assembly.
4. Remove Intake manifold
assy.
1. Clean manifold & its
mounting surface on
cylinder head.
2. Replace new manifold
gasket.
3. Refit intake manifold.
4. Refit EGR assy. CR assy.
and all fuel lines.
5. Refit intercooler assy. &
NVH cover.
Replace the manifold gaskets as and when opened.

Check and correct leakage from EGR assembly or manifold mounting.

mEagle-43
EXHAUST MANIFOLD – R&R

Exhaust manifold mtg. 35 ± 03
nut
Replace the exhaust manifold gaskets whenever it is opened.

Use recommended rust free if manifold mounting bolts found jam.
Removal Steps –
1. Remove NVH cover &
intercooler assembly.
2. Remove TC assembly.
3. Remove Alternator
assy.
4. Remove EGR pipe
flange bolts on manifold
5. Remove heat shield &
exhaust manifold.
1. Replace gaskets & refit
exhaust manifold.
2. Refit heat shield &
reconnect EGR pipe
flange on manifold.
3. Refit TC assembly.
4. Refit Alternator assy.
5. Refit intercooler
assembly, NVH cover.
6. Check main drive belt
tension.
7. Check for no oil & gas
leak.

mEagle-44
High Pressure Fuel Pump – R&R
Fuel pump Sprocket 35 ± 03
mounting nut.
HP pump mtg. nut. 25 ± 03
Check FIP cover ‘O’ ring for damage, replace if required.

Use MST 0305BC007ST to hold HP fuel pump sprocket during HP pump removal.
Refer below procedure for removal of HPP with MST 0305BC007ST.

1. Remove NVH cover, Fan & 1. Refit HP pump assembly.
shroud. 2. Reconnect all fuel pipes on HP
1. Remove intercooler assy. pump.
2. Remove both drive belts. 3. Remove MST and refit
3. Remove high pressure fuel line inspection cover on front cover.
& hoses on fuel pump. 4. Refit both drive belts.
4. Remove inspection cover plate 5. Refit intercooler assy. and Fan,
on timing cover. shroud, NVH cover.
5. Use MST to hold HP pump 6. Check & insure for no fuel
sprocket. leakage from system.
6. Remove HP pump.

mEagle-45
HP Pump Remover -
0305BC007ST HP Pump Remover mEagle Engine
1 Removal Steps:
1. Remove high pressure pipes.
2. Remove HPP inspection cover from front cover.
3. Remove sprocket locking nut & spring washer of
high pressure pump.
4. Mount plate of HPP removal tool on front cover
with flanged bolts (Size M6 x 20 qty. 3 nos. Refer
Photograph No. 1 on page 3 and Sr. no. 5 in
attached sketch on page no. 4). Hand tight the
bolts.
2 5. Rotate the engine to align 4-nos. of tapped holes
(size M6) of sprocket with slots provided on plate.
6. Assemble bolts (size M6 x 50, qty. 4 nos.) with
plain washer (Refer Photograph No. 2 on page 3
and Sr. No. 3 & 4 in the attached sketch on page
no. 4 and) to hold the sprocket in position.
7. Remove 3 nuts for high pressure pump mounting
on crankcase studs from rear side.
8. Assemble threaded bolt (size M14 x 45, refer
Photograph No. 3 on page 3 & Sr. No. 2 in the
attached sketch on page no. 4) through central
3 threaded hole of tool.
9. Rotate the threaded bolt with 22 mm spanner,
so that high pressure pump is pushed out from
Slots on plate to align the screw with tapper

holes of sprocket
Threaded bolt
1. Remove centre bolt M14 x 45 of the tool. Do not remove sprocket holding bolts (size
M6 x 50, qty. 4 nos.) from the plat.
2. Ensure HP pump ‘O’ ring is in place. Apply oil / grease to ‘O’ ring before insertion.
3. Re-assemble HP pump on the studs & tighten 3 nuts on crankcase to 25 Nm torque.
4. Remove 4 nos. of sprocket holding bolts (size M6 x 50) from plate.
5. Remove plate by loosening bolts (size M6 x 20, qty. 3 nos.).
6. Assemble spring washer & lock nut on HPP shaft & tighten nut to 70 Nm torque.
7. Check inspection cover ‘O’ ring for damages, if damaged – replace.
8. Assemble inspection cover on front cover with 3 nos. of M6 bolts & tighten to 8-10 Nm
torque. (Take care, not to slip threading in front cover)
9. Connect HP pipes. Pump to rail & torque to 20 ± 2 Nm at pump end & 35 Nm at rail
end.
10. Connect new fuel lines. Inlet & outlet connectors and electrical wiring harness
connection.

mEagle-46
Engine Front Cover – R&R
Engine front cover 25 ± 03
mtg. bolts.
Removal Steps –
(Refer illustration shown)
1. Draining of coolant.
2. Remove NVH cover, Fan &
shroud.
3. Remove both drive belts.
4. Remove damper pulley,
cam phase sensor.
5. Remove water pump.
6. Remove engine front cover.

mEagle-47
Pre removal and Post Assembly Steps –
Clean and clear the Front cover surface as well as facing on the cylinder block
from old gasket.
Recommended sealant application and curing time for the same.
1. Apply sealant on front cover facing/ clean surface.
2. Refit engine front cover.
3. Refit damper pulley.
4. Refit both drive belts.
5. Refit Fan, shroud & NVH cover.
6. Check for no oil leak from front cover.
7. Check both belt tensions.
Check and ensure for no oil leak from front cover.

Use recommended sealant for front cover assembly.

mEagle-48
Engine Front Oil Seal – R&R
Engine front cover 25 ± 03
mtg. bolts.

1. Remove NVH cover, Fan & 1. Replace oil seal in front cover.
shroud. 2. Apply sealant on front cover
2. Remove both drive belts. facing/ clean surface.
1. Remove damper pulley. 3. Refit engine front cover.
2. Remove engine front cover. 4. Refit damper pulley.
3. Remove oil seal fitted in front 5. Refit both drive belts.
cover. 6. Refit Fan, shroud & NVH cover.
7. Check for no oil leak from front
cover.
8. Check both belt tensions.
Oil seal once removed should not be reused.

mEagle-49
Oil Pressure Sensor – R&R
Nm.
Oil pressure sensor mtg. 18± 02
banjo
Oil pressure switch is fitted near oil filter, refer above sketch.
Oil pressure switch can be removed independently.
Check oil level and add if required.
Refer above illustration for correct fitment of Oil pressure sensor.

mEagle-50
Oil filter Assembly - R&R
Engine oil filters Hand tight
tightening torque.
Oil filter Removal – Refer illustrations.

1. Remove the oil filter by unscrewing it in anti-clockwise direction, using an
oil filter wrench.
2. Check the oil cooler stud for tightness – Torque 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm.
3. Smear a layer of fresh engine oil on the oil filter “O” ring
4. Fit the oil filter and turn it clockwise till the “O” ring touches the oil cooler
face.
5. Turn the filter another 3/4th turn by hand.
6. Check for Oil leakage/ seepage at –
Oil pan & crankcase joint
Oil pan Drain Plug.
Oil filter joint.
Oil cooler joint
Never use a wrench/spanner to tighten the oil filter

mEagle-51
Oil cooler– R&R

Heat shield mtg. bolt 8 ± 02

1. Remove NVH cover. 1. Replace inlet pipe gasket.
2. Remove Oil filter assembly. 2. Refit Oil cooler inlet & outlet
3. Remove Oil cooler water inlet hoses.
& outlet hoses. 3. Replace Oil filter assembly &
4. Remove heat shield. ‘O’ ring.
5. Remove oil cooler assembly. 4. Refit heat shield.
5. Check & correct engine oil
level & radiator coolant level.

mEagle-52
Engine oil cooler lines– R&R
Coolant inlet pipe 15 ± 1.5
mtg. bolt

1. Remove NVH cover. 1. Replace inlet pipe gasket.
2. Remove Oil filter assembly. 2. Refit Oil cooler inlet & outlet
3. Remove Oil cooler water inlet hose & pipe lines.
& outlet hose & pipe lines. 3. Replace Oil filter assembly.
4. Check engine oil level &
radiator coolant level, correct
if required.

mEagle-53
Engine oil level & leak - check
MAX
MIN
Oil Level Check –

1. Pull out the dip stick gauge and wipe it clean with a cloth/paper.
2. Insert the dip stick gauge into the dip stick guide fully till the end.
3. Pull out the dip stick slowly and check for the oil level between Maximum and
Minimum level - if found below, top up with recommended oil.
4. Start the engine and check for oil leakage/ seepage at –
Oil sump & crankcase joint.
Oil sump drain plug.
Oil filter joint.
1. Ensure that the vehicle is parked on level ground/2 post lift/4 post lift.
2. If the vehicle is lifted on a 2-post lift, ensure to disconnect the LSPV
spring, and reconnected when job is over.
3. Ensure that the engine is not running.

mEagle-54
Flywheel & ring– R&R
TM assy. mtg. allen 95 ± 05
bolt on Bell
housing. 90 + 60°
Flywheel mtg. bolts
Removal Steps –
1. Remove Transmission
assembly.
2. Remove Clutch & Pressure
plate assembly.
3. Remove Flywheel assy.
1. Refit flywheel assembly.
2. Refit Clutch & Pressure plate
assembly using special tool.
3. Refit Transmission assy.
4. Check vehicle operation for
smooth performance.
Follow the Repair Manual SOP to replace the flywheel ring.

mEagle-55
Engine rear oil seal– R&R

Engine rear oil seal 25 ± 03
retainer plate mtg. bolts.

1. Remove TM assembly. 1. Replace new oil seal in retainer
1. Remove Clutch & Flywheel assembly.
assembly. 2. Refit Rear oil seal retainer.
2. Remove Rear oil seal retainer. 3. Refit Flywheel & Clutch assy.
3. Remove Rear Oil seal. 4. Refit TM assembly.
Check oil seal for damage, replace if required.

Check for oil leak after completion of job.

mEagle-56
Engine rear oil gallery plug– R&R
Removal Steps –
Refer above illustration.
Remove TM assembly.
Remove Clutch and Flywheel assembly.
Rear oil gallery plugs can be removed using square type Allen key.
Use recommended sealant while refitting oil gallery plugs.

Do not over tighten the plugs, can lead to oil leak.
Check and ensure for no oil leak after completion of job

mEagle-57
Fuel Filter – DRAIN THE WATER
Refer above illustrations shown –
1. Loosen Water in Fuel Sensor at the bottom of the Fuel Filter by 2 turns [1]
2. Allow the Water accumulated in the filter to drain out.
3. Tighten the Water in Fuel Sensor [2]

mEagle-58
Fuel Filter – R&R
Refer above illustrations shown –
1. Remove the ‘Water in Fuel Sensor’ [2] at the bottom of the Fuel Filter element
1. Remove the Fuel Filter Element [1]
2. Fit a new fuel filter element and tighten it by hand [4]
3. Refit the “Water in fuel” sensor [3]
4. Remove the fuel tank cap
5. Switch the Ignition to ON position
6. Bleed the system using hand primer and bleed screw on the banjo

mEagle-59
Air Filter – R&R
Removal Procedure -
1. Remove the vacuum hose and chocking indicator on clean hose.

2. Open the clean hose clip and separate the hose.
3. Open the dust side clip and separate the hose.
4. Remove the HFM sensor carefully.

mEagle-60
Radiator front grill bracket – R&R
Removal Steps –
1. Remove radiator front grill adon.
2. Remove both horns.
3. Remove bonnet lock and cable.
4. Remove radiator bottom shield.
5. Remove radiator upper LH & RH brackets.
(Do not remove radiator assembly)
6. Remove radiator front grill bracket.

mEagle-61
Radiator Drain Cock– R&R
• Add and check coolant level after completion of job.

mEagle-62
Radiator – R&R
1
2 3
Pre removal activities –

Coolant draining.
Post fitment activities –
Refill & check coolant level.
Removal Steps – Refer above illustrations.

1. Remove Fan and shroud.
2. Remove radiator upper & bottom hoses.
3. Remove radiator upper LH and RH mounting brackets. Refer fig.2
4. Remove radiator upper and bottom rubber mountings on LH and RH side. Refer
fig.3

mEagle-63
Rocker Arm Assembly – R&R
Rocker arm mtg. bolts 30 ±03

1. Remove NVH cover & 1. Clean and check all components
intercooler assembly. before assembly.
2. Remove oil breather hoses. 2. Refit rocker assembly.
3. Remove rocker cover assy. 3. Refit rocker cover.
4. Remove rocker assembly. 4. Refit all breather hoses.
5. Refit intercooler assy and NVH
cover.

mEagle-64
Rocker Arm – R&R
Rocker arm assy. mtg. bolts 30 ± 03
Rocker arms are fitted with Hydraulic lash lifting adjuster (HLLA). It is recommended
to replace complete arm if HLLA is found jam/ failure.
Tappet setting is not required since it is hydraulic adjuster.

mEagle-65
Camshaft – R&R
Cam sprocket mtg. 135 ± 10
Thrust plate 25 ± 03
Removal Steps –
1. Remove NVH cover &
intercooler assembly.
2. Remove front cover.
3. Remove chain assembly.
4. Remove Cam sprocket.
5. Remove rocker cover.
6. Remove rocker assembly and
push rods.
7. Hold tappets by magnetic
sticks.
8. Remove Thrust plate & Cam.
1. Refit cam shaft assembly and sprocket.
2. Refit push rod, rocker assembly, check gasket & refit rocker cover.
3. Refit chain assembly.
4. Apply sealant and refit front cover.
5. Check for no oil leak through front cover & rocker cover.

mEagle-66
Chain assembly– R&R
Damper pulley mtg. bolt 90 + 90° + 90°
Chain accessory mtg.
bolts. 35 ± 03

1. Remove NVH cover, Fan & 1. Refit Chain assembly.
shroud. 1. Refit hydraulic tensioner &
1. Remove both drive belts. chain guides.
2. Remove damper pulley. 2. Apply sealant, sock and Refit
3. Remove engine Front cover. engine front cover.
4. Remove hydraulic tensioner, 3. Refit damper pulley.
chain guides. 4. Refit both drive belts.
5. Remove Chain assembly. 5. Refit fan, shroud and NVH
cover.
6. Check both drive belt tension.
Check and ensure that chain links are not rusty.

Check and ensure that oil jet micro holes are not block.

mEagle-67
Chain assembly sub components– R&R
Guide mtg. bolts 25 ± 03
Tensioner mtg. bolts 25 ± 03
Removal Steps –
1. Drain coolant.
2. Remove NVH cover, Fan
& shroud.
3. Remove damper pulley
and Front cover.
4. Remove water pump.
5. Remove chain guide &
hydraulic tensioner.
6. Remove chain assembly.
7. Remove oil jet.
8. Remove Idler shaft &
sprocket.
9. Remove HP pump
sprocket.
10. Remove cam sprocket.

mEagle-68
OIL SPRAY JET –
Oil spray jet is provided to lubricate the chain

assembly by spraying oil during engine running
condition.
It is mounted by means of 02 nos. bolts on the

engine block. It has 03 nos. of micro holes
provided to spray the oil.
OIL SPRAY JET
HP PUMP SPROCKET –
HP pump sprocket is driven by

timing chain which in turns rotates
the HP pump.
Use MST No. 545 to hold and lock

the HP pump sprocket during
removal of Pump.
HP PUMP SPROCKET

mEagle-69
HYDRAULIC TENSIONER HYDRAULIC TENSIONER LOCK
HYDRAULIC TENSIONER – Refer above illustrations.

Hydraulic tensioner is located between Cam and Crank sprocket. It gives sufficient
tension to chain which avoids chain sleep and ensures Cam sprocket timing.
Lock the hydraulic tensioner before removing the chain assembly. Use special tool to
lock the tensioner.
IDLER
IDLER – Refer illustration shown.

Idler is mounted with help of two bolts on crankcase. It is located between Crank
sprocket and HP pump sprocket.
Idler assembly is to be removed before attempting chain assembly removal.

mEagle-70
Oil sump – R & R
Oil sump mtg. bolt 20 ± 02 Nm.
Oil drain plug 15 ± 02 Nm.

1. Drain engine oil, remove dipstick 1. Replace gasket, apply sealant on
guide. cleaned sump surface.
2. Disconnect oil breather hose from 2. Refit oil sump on engine.
sump. 3. Replace ‘O’ ring, refit drain plug &
3. Remove cross member below dipstick.
engine. 4. Reconnect oil breather hose.
4. Remove oil sump. 5. Refit cross member on frame.
5. Remove sump gasket/ sealant and 6. Refill engine oil, check level.
clean surface. 7. Check for no oil leak.

mEagle-71
Oil pump– R&R
Pre-removal activities –
Oil draining
Post-installation activities –
Refill recommended oil, Check oil level.
Removal Steps –
Refer illustration shown -
1. Drain the oil.
2. Remove Oil sump
3. Remove oil pump along with strainer
4. Separate oil strainer from pump.

mEagle-72
Bell housing – DISCONNECT
Bell hsg. mtg. allen 45 ± 05
bolts.
Draining of TM oil. Removal Steps –
Draining of Clutch fluid. 1. Remove battery connections
Post fitment activities – 2. Remove Starter motor.
Refill and check TM oil 3. Reverse light switch removal
level. 4. Bell housing upper mounting bolt removal
Refill Clutch fluid and do 5. Disassembly of Gear lever central console
the bleeding. 6. Propeller shaft removal
7. TM rear mounting and Cross member bolts
removal
8. Bell housing bolts removal
9. Take TM assembly out of vehicle.

mEagle-73
Engine insulator front – R&R
Engine mtg. bracket 45 ± 05
bolts.

1. Remove NVH cover. 1. Refit both engine mounting
2. Support Engine with proper lift brackets simultaneously.
& bottom support. 2. Remove engine lift & support
3. Remove Engine mounting after confirmation of proper
bracket one side. engine fitment.
4. Before
Removeremoving the engine mount makes sure
Engine mounting that the
3. Refit NVHlift and bottom support
barrier.
isbracket
provided, to avoid
on other side.any damage.

mEagle-74
Engine insulator rear– R&R
Engine rear mounts 40±05
bracket bolts

1. Remove propeller shaft assy. 1. Refit engine rear mount
2. Support TM assembly from bracket on removed cross
bottom side. member.
3. Disconnect engine rear mount 2. Assemble cross member with
bracket from TM rear cover. chassis frame.
4. Remove Cross member from 3. Align and Refit rear mount
chassis frame. bolts with TM rear cover.
5. Remove engine rear mount 4. Refit propeller shaft
bracket. assembly.
5. Remove TM bottom support.
If Engine rear mount replacement job done on vehicle. Ensure that the
Transmission is supported firmly. Use four post lift to avoid damages.

mEagle-75
Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine.
Engine R&R
Cylinder head R&R
Flywheel Removal
HPP Removal
Front Cover Removal
Timing Chain Removal
Oil Sump Removal
Oil Pump Removal
Piston Removal
Crankshaft Removal
Camshaft Removal

mEagle-76
mEagle ENGINE - R&R
ENGINE REMOVAL STEPS –
1. Disconnect the battery cables & remove the battery

2. Remove the bonnet.
3. Remove the radiator drain cock. Collect the coolant -if the coolant is clean, so that it
can be reused.
Remove the electrical connections of:
4. Oil pressure sensor
5. Water temperature sensor.
6. Starter motor
7. All sensors (HFM, Rail pressure, Manifold air temp. Cam Phase sensor)
8. Connection to Injectors, Modulator.
9. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
10. Remove the hose connection from the Turbocharger end TC to intercooler.
11. Remove the exhaust pipe at the Turbocharger outlet elbow.
12. Remove the oil filter using the special wrench tool.

mEagle-77
13. Remove the Turbocharger mounting bolts and remove the Turbocharger.
(It is recommended to remove the Turbocharger before the removal in order to
avoid any accidental damage to it while removing)
14. Remove the oil evaporator system.
15. Remove the starter motor.
16. Remove the fuel lines from filter to High Pressure Pump & return to fuel tank.
17. Remove hoses connecting the water pump to radiator.
18. Remove hose connected from the water pump to heater and heater return line.
19. Recover AC Gas from the system.
20. Remove fan, shroud. Radiator and AC condenser assembly
21. Remove the power steering connection hoses from the power steering pump.
22. Remove the pipes connecting from AC compressor suction & discharge lines.
23. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump in alternator to booster.
24. Drain the oil from the sump.
25. Remove plenum appliqué with wiper motor assembly.
26. Remove radiator front grill.
(Above both activities recommended for better accessibility to remove the
engine)
27. Attach lifting device.
28. Remove the front insulators mounting bolts,
29. Remove the gearbox mounting Allen screws.
30. Pull out and lift the engine from the engine compartment.
DISMANTLING OF ENGINE –
1.
After removing the engine from the vehicle, mount it on the engine stand.
2.
Remove the oil separator and rocker cover.
3.
Remove the High-pressure pipes.
4.
Remove the leak off pipe.
5.
Remove the Viscous Fan Drives nut.
(Note that the threads are anticlockwise threads. Hence to loosen then the
direction of rotation has to be clockwise when viewed from front).
6. Remove the steering pump drive belt & main accessory belt.
7. Remove the water pump.
8. Remove the auto tensioner and idler. Remove its bracket.
9. While assembly take care that main drive pulley is assembled correctly.
-It should be noticed that the main drive pulley can be assembled in either
direction,
however the front end is identified by holes drilled for balancing (this is not
thorough holes). If assembled wrongly it will cause misalignment by 5 to 6 mm.
10. Remove the pipe from the oil cooler to the water pump.
11. Remove all breather hoses, cyclone separator.
12. Remove the pipe oil cooler to the block.
13. Remove the oil cooler.
14. Remove the accessory like power steering pump. AC Compressor, Alternator.
Remove their mounting brackets.
15. Remove the injectors
16. Bring the first cylinder into compression. Confirm using the MST

mEagle-78
18. Ensure that the “O” rings on the front cover is kept securely so that it can be
reused if not damaged while reassembly.
19. Remove the HPP mounting nut
20. Use the pusher to remove the High Pressure Pump.
21. Rotate the engine to align three holes of FIP sprocket with three tapped hole
provided on crank case for mounting threaded pins of FIP removal tool.
22. Fit the three nos.-threaded pins (on crankcase through HPP sprocket holes and
tightened
with 17-mm spanner.
23. Insert three slotted pins in the other three holes of HPP sprocket and rest against
crankcase face
24. Now slide pins in the slot so that bottom portion of slot will butt against the back face
of
sprocket when HPP shaft is pushed away from sprocket.
25. Remove the three nuts used for mounting the HPP flange on the crankcase
26. Remove the HPP sprocket-mounting Nut
27. Assemble the Flange of MST with help three M8 bolts on the face of three threaded
pins.
28. Now assemble the M 16 threaded on the flange. Rotate the threaded bolt with
24mm
spanner so that FIP is pushed out from the sprocket.
29. Please hold the HPP with hand while pushing out from sprocket.
30. Do not remove all the pins i.e. detail no. 2 & 5 till HPP is reassembled on the
sprocket. (If
the MST is removed while the FIP is not in place then chance of sprocket getting
bent and
later the chain failure is high.)
31. Remove rocker cover
32. Remove the rocker shaft assembly
33. Remove the cylinder head mounting bolts.
34. Remove the cylinder head along with the inlet and exhaust manifold.
35. Rotate the engine.
36. Remove the oil sump.
37. Remove the oil pump along with the suction.
Ensure that the oil sump gasket is removed. It will help in locating all ladder
frames
mounting bolts
38. Rotate the engine by 90 degree.
39. Remove the oil jets along with the gasket.
40. Remove the connecting rod caps and take out the pistons.
41. Rotate the engine by 90 degree.
42. Remove the dampener pulley
43. Remove the tensioner pulley
44. Remove the timing cover.
45. Remove the idler gear.
46. Remove the camshaft’s main bolt and the 2-thrust plate locking bolts.
47. Remove the camshaft.
48. Lock the flywheel using the MST 252 and loosen the flywheel mounting bolts
49. Remove the flywheel.
50. Remove the rear end oil seal with the retainer plate.
51. Remove the main bearing bolts.

mEagle-79
Cylinder Head & Gasket– R&R
Cylinder head 90 + 60°+ 60°
mtg. bolts
Removal Steps – 9. Remove vacuum connections.

1. Coolant draining. 10. Remove High pressure fuel line
1. Disconnect battery connections. & fuel return line.
2. Remove NVH cover & intercooler 11. Remove Rocker cover, rocker
assembly. assembly.
3. Remove Air filter assembly. 12. Remove all push rods.
4. Remove oil breather/supply lines. 13. Remove Connection on
5. Remove Fan, shroud & both drive exhaust manifold.
belts. 14. Intake manifold connections.
6. Remove radiator coolant hoses. 15. Remove cylinder head bolts,
7. Remove Injectors, CR, HP Pump, refer torque chart for sequence.
HFM sensor, coolant temperature 16. Cylinder head assembly.
sensor connectors, Alternator. 17. Cylinder head gasket.

mEagle-80
While removing ensure that the bolts loosening is the reverse of the tightening
sequence
Measure the length of the cylinder head bolt. If it is up to 135 mm then the bolt can be
reused. If the length is more than 135 mm, use new bolt.
The cylinder head gasket is of the Multi Layer Steel (MLRS) Type gasket. Though it
can be assembled either way it is recommended that for optimum performance the
Top, which is identified by the lettering, is facing upward. (The cylinder Head gasket
cannot be reused – even if it appears to be good.)
Do not use any sealant/lubricant like shellac or oil on either block or head or
gasket face.
The cylinder head bolts are to be tightened with slight trace of clean engine oil (2-3
drops only). Do not put excess quantity of oil.
The tightening sequence is as shown. The tightening torque’s is 90 Nm then followed
by 60-degree angular torque. Again torque by 60 degree. The angular torque in two
stages ensures that the tightening/clamping loads of all the bolts are very close to
each other.

mEagle-81
Exploded view of Cylinder head assembly –

mEagle-82
PISTON ASSY – R&R
Pre-removal activity –
Coolant, Engine oil draining.
AC gas purging.
Engine to be removed out from vehicle.
Removal Steps –
Cylinder head & gasket removal.
Oil sump removal.
Remove Oil pump.
Remove oil jets.
Remove Con rod big end cap removal.
Remove piston assembly with con rod.
Remove piston pin and con rod.
Remove piston rings.
Refer Engine assembly section for Piston assembling procedure.

mEagle-83
CONNECTING ROD ASSY – R&R
Pre-removal activity –

AC gas purging.
Engine to be removed out from
vehicle.
Removal Steps –

Chain assembly removal.
Oil sump removal.
Remove Oil pump.
Remove oil jets.
Con rod big end cap removal.
Remove piston assembly & con
rod.
Remove piston pin and con rod.
Refer Engine assembly section for

Connecting Rod assembly procedure.

mEagle-84
CRANKSHAFT – R&R
AC gas purging.
Engine to be removed out from vehicle.
Removal Steps –

Chain assembly removal.
Remove flywheel & rear oil seal retainer plate.
Oil sump removal.
Remove Oil pump.
Remove oil jets.
Con rod big end cap removal.
Remove piston assembly with con rod.
Remove crank shaft main bearing and cap.
Remove crank shaft assembly.
Refer Engine assembly section for Crankshaft assembly procedure.

mEagle-85
Exploded view of Crankcase assembly –

mEagle-86
Inspection:
All the components should be inspected for wear. Any components, which are
beyond the wear limits, have to be replaced.
Over & above the wear limits, the following points also need to be ensured -
Piston: Check for scuffing/ scoring on the skirt. A hard thick layer of carbon lacquer
on top land is acceptable. (If the thick layer is present on the piston check that the
liner does not have scuffing)
However scuffing of the top land and skirt giving indication of overheating which is
not acceptable.
Liner: Any scoring on the liner is not acceptable.
Crankshaft: Check for scoring on the main as well as connecting rod journal. If
scoring is nominal and will not the increase the oil clearance then the crankshaft can
be used in, as it is condition.
However if it is unacceptable then the journal has to be ground up to service limits

only.
Any deep groove in the rear end oil seal seating area is unacceptable. It will result in
oil leaks.

mEagle-87
Valve: If valve tip is worn out/ ridged then not acceptable
Main bearing and connecting rod bearing — If the scoring is nominal and oil
clearance is not affected, then it can be reused. However if flaking /peeling of the
bimetal in any particular zone only is present then use new shell. Look for foreign
particle embedded, deep scratches.
Dampener pulley rubber bonding – inspect for any gap between the rubber ring and
the outer/inner ring, Cracks on ring. Any deep groove in the front oil seal seating area
is unacceptable. It will lead to leakages.
If any deterioration of rubber or gap noticed between the ring and the rubber replace
the dampener pulley.
It is suggested that the dampener pulley be replaced at every 3,00,000 Kms.

mEagle-88
While measuring the inner diameter of the connecting rod big end and main journal
please take the measurements after torque tightening only. For measurement
purpose the torque should be 85±8 Nm. Do not reuse this bolt.
Working Principle Sub Systems

EGR
Crankcase Ventilation
Oil System

mEagle-89
Working Principle of Exhaust Gas Recirculation
Signal out
Vacuum
Temperature Modulator
Sensor Exhaust Gas
RPM sensor E
C EGR
Engine
Accelrator
U
Air flow
Intake Air
Alternator
with Vacuum
pump
During acceleration and in higher loads the combustion chamber temperatures

increase. The high combustion temperatures increase the NOx generation. The
higher percentage of NOx generated in the combustion chamber come out through
the tail pipe in the atmosphere.
To reduce the amount of NOx coming through the tail pipe the EGR system adds
exhaust gases into the fresh air that is going into the combustion chamber. Since the
exhaust gas is already burnt hence when mixed with fresh air acts an inert gas. Thus
when the exhaust gas mixed with fresh air enters the combustion chamber, it
performs a dual role. The first role it does is that it reduces the amount of oxygen
available for combustion. The second role that it acts is as a heat absorbent/heat
sinking.
The net effect is that it reduces the combustion temperatures. This results in lower
amount of NOx being generated.
The engine ECU controls the EGR modulator to control the lift of the EGR valve. The
ECU take various parameter like Accelerator demand, engine RPM, coolant
temperature, air flow to control the EGR lift and ultimately the amount of the Exhaust
gas going into combustion chamber.
EGR Valve
Remove the EGR valve and check it valve-sticking, deposition of carbon etc. If
excess carbon deposits and sticky valve noticed then it should be cleaned with a
suitable solvent, so that the correct valve seat is ensured.

mEagle-90
After cleaning the valve blow air from the bottom side of the valve and check for any
leakages.
EGR Pipe
Remove the EGR pipe and check for gas leakage, damages etc. Clean the gasket
seating area from any carbon deposits, burrs etc. Spray WD 40 rust cleaning spray
on the nut.
To check the pipe for any leakages, close one end of flange and from other end blow
air at 2 bars. Dip the pipe in water and observe if any leakage is observed. If any
leaks are observed then the pipe has to be replaced. Do not attempt to weld/ seal the
leakage joint
Vacuum Modulator Valve
Does not require any maintenance. However please check and confirm that the line
from the modulator to air cleaner is clean and the hole at the air cleaner hose end is
not choked.

mEagle-91
Working principle of Crankcase Ventilation System –
The ventilation system is closed ventilation type. A hose connects the sump
assembly to the oil separator. Te oil separator is a labriyanth type followed by the
cyclonic type. The oil goes through the labriyanth, the oil collected drops down. The
excess pressure acts below the diaphragm. The diaphragm is acted from below by
the crankcase pressure and from top the suction by air cleaner. A spring also acts on
top of the diaphragm. Once the pressure exceeds the diaphragm lifts and the excess
crankcase pressure goes to the air intake system.
The gas which escapes goes to cyclonic type separator where a second stage of
separation takes place.
Certain amount of oil will be carried from the oil separator to the Air inlet hose, which
is normal. However if it is excessive please look for all the causes mentioned in the
high blow bye.

mEagle-92
Oil circulation system –
An external gear type pump sucks the oil through the strainer. The oil pump is driven
by the gear, which is mounted, on the crankshaft.
The oil pump delivers pressurized oil to the supply bore in the block. This oil is
delivered to the oil cooler and after getting cooled comes on the outer side of the
element. The filtered oil goes through the centre of the oil filter and is connected to
the main oil gallery.
The main oil gallery runs to the front of the block where it is delivered to the timing
cover. From therein it takes a small loop in the timing cover and again comes to the
front of the block. Goes to another oil gallery. Oil from this gallery supplies oil to the
piston cooling jets.
Oil from the main oil gallery goes to the crankshaft main journal and camshaft, while
from the rear end it is supplied to the alternator’s vacuum pump. The oil supply for
the turbocharger is from the oil filter bracket.
The oil routed from the main oil gallery lubricates the timing gears and the idler gear
bush. Part of this oil gets sprayed from idler shaft hole. The camshaft gear and the
thrust plate are lubricated by engine oil routed from the first camshaft bushing
through the camshaft hole.
The oil from the First camshaft bush goes to the top of the cylinder and enters an oil
gallery, which extend up to 110 m from the front. Oil from this gallery comes to the
base of the first rocker shaft-mounting bracket. The oil then enters the rocker shaft.
Oil enters the rocker bushing at through two holes facing the bottom half. At the
same time it sprays from the oil hole at the side of the rocker to lubricate the valve
stem and the surfaces over which the valve cap slides. The oil then returns to the
sump through the push rod holes in the cylinder head.
In both the oil cooler and oil filter, bypass valves are provided which operate if the
differential pressure exceeds 0.8 bar.

mEagle-93
Rocker
To alternator
vacuum pump 1
Main
2 Oil
Cam
3
Main Oil
4
Oil
filter Oil
filte
5
Oil
cooler
Safety Oil
Valve coole
Oil filter Supply to

bracket Turbocharge
Str
ain
er
Crack opening pressure of relief valve in oil pump has been reduced from 6 bars to
4.5 bars. Oil pressure sensor, is mounted on main oil galleries (which is on exhaust
side.)

mEagle-94
Oil gallery is drilled from front bottom side for oil supply to hydraulic tensioner. This oil
gallery is plugged by M9 tapered plug from bottom side.
Oil supply to turbo charger is from opening in exhaust side main oil gallery.

mEagle-95
Specifications & Wear Data –

Figure Description Value
Bore 94 mm
Stroke 90 mm
Power- Max 112 BHP @ 3800 RPM
Torque-Max 240 Nm@1700-3000 RPM
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Direction of rotation Clockwise from fan side
Compression Pressure Standard Service Limit
Piston Re-entrant Bowl
Piston Pin Full floating. Surface

hardened & ground.
Oil grade & Quantity API grade CH4

Viscosity Index 15W40
6 liters
Maximile Supreme
Cylinder liner Replaceable wet type Cast
Iron

mEagle-96
Inlet valve
OPENS 4°BTDC
CLOSES 12°ABDC
Exhaust Valve
OPENS 31°BBDC
CLOSES 2°ATDC
Oil pump shaft Standard Service Limit

13.984/13.966 13.956
Oil pump shaft Bush Standard Service Limit

14.000/14.018 14.038
Oil filter bypass opening 0.8 bar

pressure
Relief valve opening 2.5/3.5 bar
pressure ( for gear drive
engines only)
Oil pressure at
Idle ( 60∼80°C) 2.5 bar
Max speed( 60∼80°C)
Piston ring to groove Standard Service Limit

clearance
1st ring 0.11/0.15 0.25
2nd ring 0.05/0.09 0.15
3rd ring 0.04/0.072 0.15
Piston ring end gaps Standard Service Limit
1st ring 0.33/0.55 0.9

2nd ring 0.8/1.05 1.5
3rd ring 0.25/0.55 0.9
Gudgeon pin O.D φ 32/31.994
Connecting rod – Small Standard

end bush I.D φ in 32.041/32.025
assembled condition
Gudgeon pin to Standard Service Limit
connecting rod small 0.047/0.025 0.05
end bush clearance.

mEagle-97
Gudgeon pin to piston Standard Service Limit
pin hole clearance 0.017/0.004 0.03
Piston weights grading

836-840 gm
A 841-845 gm
B 846-850 gm
C 851-855 gm
D 856-860 gm
E
Connecting rod grading
as per weights
F ≥ 1260
G ≥1265
H ≥1270
I ≥1275
J ≥1280
K ≥1285
L
≥1290
M
≥1295
N
O ≥1300
P ≥1305
R ≥1310
S ≥1315
T ≥1320
U ≥1325 to 1330
Recommended for
service replacement M i.e. 1295 to 1300 gms
Connecting rod bend or 0.05 In 50mm length.
twist
Connecting rod end play Standard Service Limit
0.1/0.3 0.5
Crankshaft end play Standard Service Limit

0.10/0.37 0.5
Camshaft end play Standard Service Limit

01/0.3 0.4
Liner projection from 0.02/0.09

crankcase top surface
X Axis- Along C/s Standard Limit

Y Axis- Perpendicular to
cranks shaft φ ID 94.022/94.04
X axis
mEagle-98
A- 25 mm
B- -86.6 mm Roundness ≤ 0.05
C- 113 mm
D- 163 mm Cylindricty ≤ 0.05
Roundness/Ovality-
Difference in X & Y plane
at any pt.
Cylindricity/Taper -
Difference in same plane
x/y at any point
Crankcase top surface Standard Service Limit
distortion 0.07 0.1
Cylinder head bottom Standard Service Limit

face distortion 0.05 0.1
Height of cylinder head Standard Service Limit

from top to bottom face 97.7/98.3 97.4
Rocker lever bush I.D ( 22.0

in pressed condition)
∅ Rocker shaft O.D 21.98/21.980
Rocker to shaft Standard Service Limit

clearance 0.02/0.06 0.2
Push rod bent Standard Service Limit

≤ 0.25 0.4
Valve spring Standard Service Limit

Free Length 53.6 50.6
0.15 0.2
Squareness 381.5N/43 mm 347 N
Installed Load/Installed
length
Valve seat angle 44°45′ to 45°
Valve stem O.D

Inlet 6.95/7.10
Exhaust 6.95/7.10

mEagle-99
Valve to Valve guide
clearance
Inlet 0.03/0.07
0.05/0.09
Exhaust
Thickness of the valve Standard Service Limit
head
2.0 1.5
Pitch-3/8”,Duplex bush type

Chain 102 Links, Endless & Riveted.
Crank Sprocket 19 Teeth
Idler Sprocket 38 Teeth
HPP Sprocket 38 Teeth
Difference between Cam Standard Service Limit

height & base circle
diameter
Inlet 6.0796 5.5796

Exhaust 6.9076 6.4076
49.025/49.0
Camshaft Bush I.Dφ
48.98/48.95
Camshaft Journal O.D
Camshaft bush to cam Standard Service Limit
journal clearance 0.02/0.075 0.1
Camshaft bend ≤ 0.01

I.D of tappet hole in
crankcase 24.48
Tappet to tappet hole Standard Service Limit

clearance 0.02/0.075 0.15
Crankshaft pin Standard Service Limit

∅ OD 53.0/52.981
Roundness/Ovality ≤ 0.01 0.03
Cylindricity/Taper ≤ 0.012 0.03

mEagle-100
Main Bearing oil Standard Service Limit
clearance 0.016/0.074 0.1
Undersize of the c/s Dimensions of the crankpin.

crank pin ∅ OD
52.75/52.731
0.25mm US 52.50/52.481
0.50 mm US 52.25/52.231
0.75 mm US
Crankshaft journal Standard Service Limit
59.0/58.981
∅ OD ≤ 0.005 0.03
Roundness/ Ovality ≤ 0.008 0.02
Cylindricity/ Taper
Undersize of the c/s Dimensions of the journal

journal pin ∅ OD
0.25mm US 58.75/58.371
0.50 mm US 58.50/58.481
0.75 mm US 58.25/58.231
Crankshaft bend Standard Service Limit

≤ 0.025 0.06
FILLETS ARE HARDENED.

CAUTION DO NOT ATTEMPT TO
STRAIGTEN
Crankshaft fillet radius Standard Service Limits

3.0/3.5
Crankshaft Hardness 50 HRC

Minimum
Connecting rod Bearing Standard Service Limit

oil clearance 0.016/0.040 0.070
The Maximum length of

bolts after which they
can not be used
Cylinder head bolts 136.6/135.4 mm

Main Bearing Bolts 90.6/89.4mm
Connecting rod Replace everytime
Flywheel bolts length 29.58/30.42 mm

mEagle-101
Thermostat
Starts opening at 80~84°C
Fully opens at 96°C
Water pump pulley ratio 1.25
Flywheel 35±0.13
Width from Mounting
face to clutch face
Flywheel Standard Service Limit

≤ 0.05 0.1
Flatness ≤ 0.05 0.1
Runout

mEagle-102
Lubricants & Sealants –
Mahindra Maximile Supreme

Capacity : 6.5 Liters
RTV silicone sealant - RHODOSEAL. Part number 0024532 to be used:
Between Rear oil seal retainer & Block

Between ladder frame & block
All other places Loctite 547. Part number 0084337 is used.
Hard gaskets are used only at: -

9 Cylinder head Gasket.
9 Turbocharger to Exhaust manifold mounting.
9 Exhaust manifold to cylinder head.
9 Exhaust manifold to EGR pipe
9 EGR pipe to elbow.
Rust cleaning solution (For the Turbocharger mounting nuts):
Brand Name: WD-40---

Manufacturer- WD-40 COMPANY
MARKETEDBY—Hardcastle & Waud Manufacturing Co. Ltd.
Brabourne Stadium,
87, Veer Nariman Road
MUMBAI-20.

mEagle-103
Tightening Torque’s -
Description
Torque Value
Bolt - Cylinder head 90Nm+ 60°+ 60° ( 66.4 Lbft+60°+
60°)
Connecting rod cap Mounting bolts 45 Nm+ 90° ( 33 Lbft +90°)
Main Bearing cap 168±17 Nm ( 123 ±12.5 Lbft)
Flywheel 90 Nm + 60° ( 66 Lbft+ 60°)
Cranks shaft pulley 90 Nm + 90°+ 90°
(apply oil on bolt before tightening)
Cam sprocket mounting bolts 135 ± 10 Nm
HPP Mounting Nut 30 ± 3 Nm
Idler Shaft Mounting Bolts
M8 X 1.25 25 ± 3 Nm
M7 X 1.00 15 ± 3 Nm
HPP sprocket lock nut 70 ± 5 Nm
Camshaft thrust Plate mounting Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Viscous Fan clutch nut 45 ± 5 Nm
Injector holding clamping bolts 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Front cover on crankcase 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Oil jet Assembly bolt 10 ± 1 Nm
M6
Alternator Bracket bolts on Cylinder 40 ± 5 Nm
head
Alternator brace bolt on alternator 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm
bracket
High Pressure Pipe – HPP to Rail 20±2 Nm
High Pressure Pipe to Injector 27 ± 2 Nm
High Pressure Pipe to rail 35 Nm
Rail mounting on intake manifold 22.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Phase Sensor Mounting on Ft. cover 8 ± 0.5 Nm
Damper Pulley Mounting Bolt 90 Nm +90°+ 90°
Chain Guide (Cam shaft to HPP) 14 ± 1 Nm
Mounting Bolts
Chain Guide (HPP to Idler Sprocket) 14 ± 1 Nm
Mounting Bolts

mEagle-104
TORQUE SEQUENCE FOR OIL SUMP MOUNTING BOLTS -

mEagle-105
TORQUE SEQUENCE FOR EXHAUST MANIFOLD MOUNTING
BOLTS -

mEagle-106
Special Tools –
Description / Part No. / Sketch

Usage View
Piston Ring Compressor

MST 262
Holder Assembly for rear oil seal

installer
MST 264
Rear Oil Seal Installer

MST 265
Flywheel Lock
MST 271

mEagle-107
Description / Part No. / Sketch
Usage View
Lock Pin for Chain Tensioner

MST 273
Special Spanner for Nut - Engine

Mounting -- MST – 542
Extractor Flywheel Bearing

MST – 543
Drift Flywheel Bearing

MST – 544

2
Xylo mE
Eagle Jan 2009/Rev 1
Eagle-108
mE 8
Descripttion / Partt No. / Ske
etch Usage V
View
Wrencch Oil Filteer Remove er
MST – 545
5
Cylinder Head Boltt Deep Socket

MST 5888
HP
PP Removval Tool
MST 27
70

The repair metho
ods given by the manufaccturer in this document are
a based on the technica al specifications current at
a the time of release. The methods may be modiffied as a result of change es introduced by
the manufacturerr in the production of the various component unitss and accessories from which
w the vehicles are ma anufactured. The reprodu uction, translation, transm
mission, in part of whole of
o the present
document, are prrohibited without the prio

or written consent of © 2009 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Air Intake System-1
Air Intake System

The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of
changes introduced by the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation,
transmission, in part of whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of © 2009 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Air Intake System-2
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment procedures of the

Turbocharger
Specifications
Tightening Torques

Air Intake System-3
Description
The air is sucked through a foam type air cleaner. The air enters the air cleaner
housing at the bottom and leaves at the top.
The air cleaner is made up of 5 different layers of foam. Each layer is having different
cleaning efficiency.
After filtration the air goes to the turbocharger.
A HFM sensor is attached to the outlet of the air cleaner. The air to the turbocharger
passes through HFM. The HFM measures the air mass going to the engine. The
quantity of the air going is used to compute the fuelling. The HFM also measures the
air temperature
After the HFM and before turbocharger there is a service indicator. In case of choked
air cleaner the red indicator will appear.
The variable geometry turbocharger controls the boost. A boost pressure sensor
fitted on the outlet of the intercooler measures the boost. The boost signal is given to
the engine ECU. Based on the load, engine speed, temperature, the ECU controls
the boost by manipulating the variable geometry TC. The compressed air is cooled
by the charge intercooler, which is mounted on the engine. The cooled air enters the
inlet manifolds.

Air Intake System-4
Trouble Shooting –
Symptom Causes Remedial action

Noisy engine & black 1. Faulty injectors. 9 Replace injectors
smoke. 2. Loose main bearings 9 Tighten the main
bearings.
3. Broken parts. 9 Inspect and replace
the broken parts.
4. EGR valve stuck 9 Check the EGR
Open mechanically valve & replace if
required
Engine does not give full 1. Air intake restricted/ 9 Clean the air intake
power. cleaner assy choked path /Replace air
cleaner element if
required.
2. Clogged fuel filter. 9 Replace filter.
3. Defective injectors. 9 Replace
4. Air leaks in 9 Plug the leaks,
pressure line replace hose or clip
after turbocharger ( if required.
Turbo to intercooler,
intercooler & intercooler to
intake manifold)
5. Fuel return pipe to tank
blocked. 9 Locate the
kink/block in return
6. Valve leak pipe and rectify.
9 Check the
7. Turbocharger damaged. compression, relap
if required.
8. Gas leaks between 9 Get the

exhaust manifold & Turbocharger
cylinder head. repaired at authorized
9. Restricted exhaust TEL dealer.
system. 9 Replace gaskets.
10. Exhaust gas leak 9 Replace
between turbo & manifold. Turbocharger
11. Gas leak between

EGR 9 Tighten the TC
pipe joints mounting bolts.
12. EGR pipe leak. Replace gasket if
13. Fuels supply line kink required.
creating restriction.
14. Compression leak. 9 Correct the leak
15. Jammed piston rings 9 Change the gasket
16. Viscous fan or the hose.
Continuously engaged. 9 Replace the pipe.
17. Check CR system 9 Remove the
restriction.
9 Check compression.
9 Replace piston
Air Intake System-5
rings.
9 Check & Replace
fan if required.
9 Check the vacuum
leak and rectify.
Refer the diagnostic
manual
Noisy engine & high 1. Cylinder head gasket 9 Replace the cylinder
smoke ( White/ defective. head gasket.
Grey) 2. Worn out or damaged 9 Lap the valve seats
valve seats. or regrind.
3. Leaking injector 9 Tighten the injector
holder holder.
Black smoke. 1. Defective injectors 9 Check injectors.
2. Air leaks. 9 Check for leaks
between TC to
intercooler &
3. EGR valve stuck intercooler to inlet
open manifold.
4. Worn out rings, liners & 9 Check the EGR
valves. valve
5. Improper vacuum
connection for 9 Overhaul engine.
EGR valve
9 Check & correct
Engine does not give full 1 Leak in EGR pipe 9 Tighten the joint or
power. ( will be accompanied by replace the gasket
whistling)
2. HFM sensor 9 The torque limitation
coated with oil due to smoke will
become active.
Replace the HFM
and check.
Whining noise 1. Indication of air 9 Tighten the clamps
clearly audible after leak in between: at the intercooler
2000 RPM inlet and outlet.
Turbocharger to inlet 9 Tighten the clamps
manifold. at the Turbocharger
inlet & outlet.
9 Check the hoses for
2. leak in EGR pipe leak
9 Check & replace the
3. TC to exhaust pipe – pipe to and from
stud fallen off. intercooler.
9 Check for the EGR
pipe tightness.
9 Replace the stud (if
the vehicle is run for
long)

Air Intake System-6
Care of the System –
The air cleaner element should be replaced every 60,000 km or If service indicator
red band is visible.
Do not clean the element and soak with engine oil- under any circumstance.
Under extremely dusty conditions replace earlier than above.
It should be noted that if the engine is run with clogged air cleaner, then it will lead to
seepage of oil from turbocharger into the air intake system.
Ensure that the recommended engine oil only is used and the specified drain
intervals are maintained.
Check the oil separator system, in particular for any leak in vacuum leak. As any
vacuum leak will lead to a high-pressure build up and then it will go through the
intake system and give a signal of high blow by or be confused with compressor oil
leak.
Do not attempt to disturb length of the vacuum controlled actuator rod.

Air Intake System-7
In Car Repairs –
Air Filter element Replacement
HFM Sensor Replacement
HFM Sensor Cleaning Procedure
Air Filter – R&R
Turbocharger - R&R
Working principle of Turbocharger.
Specifications
Tightening torques

Air Intake System-8
AIR FILTER ELEMENT - Replace

Air filter top cover 4.5 ± 0.5
allen bolt
Hose clamps – air 2.5 ± 0.5
cleaner to manifold
4.5 ± - 0.5
2
5
Refer illustration shown above –
1. Open the clean hose clip & separate the hose.

Air Intake System-9
2. Open he Ai cleaner Top cover bolts.
3. Remove the Air filter element along with grates and clean the bottom bowl.
4. Separate the top as well as bottom grates and replace the air filter element;
assemble the grates & put the assembly back in place. Position the new
element properly. Take care of lug projections.
5. Assemble the top cover & tighten the top cover bolts in diagonally.
6. Assemble the clean hose on the air cleaner outlet-Air Mass Sensor neck and
tighten the hose clip.
• The cleaning of the element is not recommended under any

circumstances.
• Do not wring the foam.
• Do not use if foam is cut, torn or foam layers are separated.

Air Intake System-10
HFM SENSOR – R&R
Removal Steps –
1. Remove HFM sensor connector.
2. Remove hose connected from filter to Intake.
3. Remove HFM sensor by removing its mounting bolts.
Refer above illustrations –
Take care of HFM sensor ‘O’ ring while refitting.

Check and Ensure for no air leak after assembling of system.

HFM Sensor Cleaning Procedure
HFM SENSOR
Sensor Removal, Cleaning & Assembly procedure –

1. Remove air intake hose from the HFM sensor by loosening and removing
the circlip.
2. Loosen and remove the bolts (2 nos.) on the air cleaner assembly and
remove the HFM sensor assembly from air filter (Refer above photo)
3. Take regular Petrol / Hexane in a container such that HFM sensor unit can
be immersed completely (Refer above photo)
4. Allow HFM sensor unit to immerse in Petrol / Hexane for about 5-10 min.
5. Shake the HFM Sensor thoroughly keeping it inside the Petrol / Hexane
bath, such that any oil content stuck to the sensor can be flushed out.
6. Remove the sensor assembly from the Petrol / Hexane bath and remove
the Petrol / Hexane completely from the sensor.
7. Allow the sensor to get dry.
8. Blow pressurized air jet (pressure between 3 to 5 bars) from a distance of
10 cms to 15 cms from one end of the sensor so as to remove any Petrol /
Hexane content present in the mesh (Refer photograph no. 3).
9. Clean the electrical connector using pressurized air to remove any liquid
content on it (Refer photograph no. 4)
2 4

10. Assemble the sensor. Ensure that no leakage in the intake system.
11. Check the performance of the cleaned HFM sensor as per the procedure.
12. After cleaning, if performance of the HFM sensor not satisfactory, then
repeat the cleaning procedure for the HFM sensor.
13. After repeated cleaning of the HFM sensor, if the Poor Pickup or Black
Smoke concern is
- not getting resolved then change the HFM sensor.
- getting resolved, then monitor the performance of the HFM sensor for @
6 months.
14. If after changing the HFM sensor, torque limitation value “8200” is not
changing, then please check the air intake system thoroughly either for
the leakages OR for a partially stuck EGR valve.
While driving the vehicle with engine speed band between 1600 to 3800 rpm, the
torque limitation value “8200” should get disappear.

AIR FILTER – R&R
Removal Steps –
1. Remove hose connections on Air filter assembly.
2. Remove Air filter assembly by loosening mounting Allen bolts.
Refer above illustrations –
a) Take care of rubber coated washer while assembling Air filter on body.
b) Take care of locking strips of top cover with air filter body.
c) Check and Ensure for no air leak after assembling of system.

TURBOCHARGER – R&R
TC assy. mtg. nut 35 ± 03
Tail pipe mtg. nut 35 ± 03
TC oil supply banjo
30 ± 03
TC oil outlet pipe
mtg. bolt 30 ± 03

1. Remove NVH cover & 1. Replace gasket & Refit TC
intercooler assembly. assy. on exhaust manifold
2. Remove TC suction hose. assembly.
3. Remove exhaust tail pipe 2. Replace washers, gaskets &
fitted on TC turbine. reconnect oil supply & outlet
4. Remove TC oil supply and banjo and pipes on TC assy.
oil outlet banjo & pipes assy. 3. Refit exhaust tail pipe to TC
5. Remove TC assy. from turbine.
exhaust manifold. 4. Refit TC suction hose.
5. Refit intercooler assy. & NVH
cover.
•
Always replace with new gasket fitted on turbocharger oil outlet pipe
whenever it opened.
• Do not apply sealant on oil supply line joints of TC; it may block the oil supply.
• Check and ensure for no oil leak from any joint on oil supply & return pipe.
• Keep hose clips intact to avoid foreign material/ body entry in intake system.
• Please cover the opening to the turbocharger with cover to avoid accidentally
dropping any foreign object.
Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment procedures of the Turbocharger –

The Turbocharger is basically an axial inflow air compressor, which is driven by an
exhaust gas driven turbine.
The exhausts gases coming out of exhaust manifold impinge on the turbine blade
give the drive to turbine shaft. At the other end of the turbine shaft the compressor is
assembled. The whole assembly is supported on a floating bush. The bush gets an
oil supply directly from the engine and has oil film between the shaft and bearing as
well as the bush and the central housing.
The exhaust gases from the Turbine impinge on the turbine blade & rotate the shaft.
The compressor blades at the other end suck the air from the air filter. After
compression the temperature of the compressed air increases thus reducing the air
density. Hence if the air is cooled and then the air density increases thus helping in
getting more power as well as improve emissions. The compressed air is sent to the
intercooler, which is mounted on the top of the engine. Hence the incoming ram air
through the scoop on the bonnet also cools the compressed air and gives it to the
intake manifold.
Inspection
Inspect the suction side (i.e. up to the air cleaner) for oil traces. In a close
crank case ventilation system it is normal to have oil in this area. These oil
particles are carried from blow bye of the engine, which gets condensed from
gas to oil. Look for any undue gumming of oil, hard carbon particles in this
area. If such an observation is present then all the causes for excess blow
symptoms have to be checked and eliminated.
• Inspect the compressor and turbine blades for any damage caused by foreign
object. The inspection can be done through the compressor housing inlet and
turbine housings outlet.
• Inspect the blades outer edge and observe if any rubbing marks are noticed
on the housing.
• Rotate the shaft wheel assembly by hand and check for freeness, and any
binding.
• Push the shaft to side and rotate to check for wheel rub. It should turn
smoothly.
• Lift both end of shaft up and down at the same time and feel for excessive
journal bearing clearance. If clearance is normal then very little shaft
movement will be detected.
• If all the above checks are satisfactory then the turbocharger can be reused.
♦ If the turbocharger parts are damaged, wheel rubbing marks present, shaft
not rotating freely or binding or excessive journal clearance then the
Turbocharger should be serviced.
Do not attempt to service or overhaul the Turbocharger. It should be done

only at the authorized Turbo Energy Ltd service centre. Any attempts to
attend without the use of special tools or procedure can damage to
turbocharger or personnel!
Turbocharger Installation –
Do not mishandle, tumbled, dropped or keep any ports open.
Check -
The inlet connection & outlet exhaust connection to turbocharger for foreign material,
cracks, blockages, sand particles, loose nuts etc. This check should be done more
thoroughly if any damage has been noticed in compressor or turbine blades as under
normal operating conditions the blades can damaged only if a foreign object hits
them.
Check all the hoses and pipes from turbocharger outlet to intercooler and intercooler
to inlet manifold for crack, aging, leaks. Check the hose clips for proper functioning. If
in doubt – replace.
The oil supply pipe should be checked carbon deposits, crack, distortions etc. Clean
the supply pipe before fitting.
Do not attempt to change the orientation of turbocharger and ensure the correct
gaskets are used.
Do not reuse any of metallic gaskets even if they appear to be good. It will lead to
leakage & drop in the performance of the engine.
Installation –
Once a new turbocharger is being installed;
1. Fill fresh clean oil from the oil supplies port and after that give the shaft few
rotations.
2. Fit the supply pipe.
3. Crank the engine till a steady stream of oil comes out through the drainpipe.
Do not crank the engine for too long. Excessive cranking will result in
emptying of the pump cavity causing the plunger to run dry.
This will ensure that the oil supply line to Turbocharger is purged of any
air pocket.
After this fit the return line from turbocharger to sump, taking care to avoid
any kinks. With engine running condition, check the air, exhaust and oil
connections for leaks.

Specifications –
Description Value
Turbocharger Model TR45-006
Turbocharger specifications TR-45 4538 5035 4.8
Turbocharger supplier Turbo Energy Ltd.
Tightening Torque’s –
Bolt location Torque in Nm ( Lb.ft.)

Turbocharger Mounting stud/ nut 35 ± 03
Inlet manifold 35 ± 03
Air cleaner top cover bolts 4.5 ± 0.5

Cooling System-1
Cooling System
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Water pump working in brief
Specifications & Coolant
Tightening Torques

Cooling System-2
Description
The cooling system is designed to cater to the following functions:
Remove & dissipate excess heat from the combustion process.

To maintain the optimum temperature for complete and uniform combustion.
To provide heating for the heater system. (In the models where the Heater is
provided)
The cooling system includes the following components/ sub system:
Radiator
Radiator Pressure cap
Coolant
Cooling fan drive
Fan shroud & Thermostat
Water pump
Thermostat housing, cover thermostat.
Recovery tank
Hoses & their clamp.

Cooling System-3
The functional system is shown in the block diagram
In brief the water flows from the water pump to the cylinder block and from the block
to the cylinder head and then to the bottom of thermostat. Once the thermostat opens
the water goes to the radiator and after getting cooled the water is again fed to the
water pump.
Water pump & cover
The coolant from the outlet elbow of the cross flow type radiator enters the inlet of the
water pump. The centrifugal water pump delivers the water the cylinder block.
Cylinder block & cylinder head
In the block the water enters a main cooling passage which runs along the length of
the block in one side (inlet manifold side). The top passage ensures that the
maximum cooling is provided to the hottest zone of the cylinder liners i.e. the top
portion. At the same time a passage at the front end connect the inlet to another
gallery at the bottom of the liner. In between the top and lower passage in the block
the coolant flows between the block & liners due to the thermos siphon effect. The
water then goes to the cylinder head and from there to bottom of the thermostat.

Cooling System-4
Radiator & No loss tank –
The radiator cap controls the system pressure to 0.9 bar. Once the pressure exceeds
0.9 bar the cap lifts off the seat and the coolant is allowed to escape into a no loss
tank. As the engine cools down the system pressure falls and vacuum is formed .The
vacuum valve in the radiator cap opens and allows the water from
the no loss tank to go back into the radiator. Thus the system does not have any
coolant loss during normal operation.
Before going into the specifics of the cooling system it is worthwhile to find out under
which driving conditions the complaints is present.
Some of the causes are:
• Prolonged /excess idling

• Very high ambient temperature
• Slow traffic
• Traffic jams
• High speed
• Steep Gradients

Noise 1. Fan contacting the 9 Reposition the shroud
shroud Water pump and inspect the engine
insulators.
2. Loose water pump 9 Replace the water
impeller. pump.
3. Water pump’s bearing 9 Replace water pump.
worn/ failure.
4. Loose mounting 9 Tighten mounting bolt
of pump belts
1. Belt loose 9 Tighten belt
2. Glazed/stretched fan 9 Replace belt
belt.
3. Rough surface on drive 9 Replace pulley.
pulley.
4. Belt alignment 9 Check the belt
Alternator/Water pump alignment & rectify.
5. Alternator bearing 9 Replace alternator
failure. Bearing.
Coolant loss- boil over Coolant
1. Overfilled recovery tank. 9 Reduce the coolant
2. Insufficient coolant level.
additive causing lower 9 Add the additive.
boiling points.
3. Additive deteriorated 9 Replace the coolant
due to aging/
contamination.
4. Low coolant level.

Cooling System-5
Hot shut down 9 Add coolant.
1. Quick shut downs after 9 Allow the engine to
a long and hot run. run at idle for some
Leakage’s time before stopping.
1. Leaks due to loose hose 9 Find the area of leaks,
clamps. Loose nuts, bolts replace hose or if
drain plugs, faulty hose or necessary the clamp
leaking radiators. also.
Blockages 9 Pressure tests the

1. Casting flash in the system to check for
block. leaks and then repair
2. Casting flash in the as necessary.
cylinder head. 9 The flash may be
visible by removing
3. Blocked radiator the cooling system
causing under filling of the components or the
cooling system. core plugs. Repair or
4. Air trapped in system. replace.
5. Air in the system 9 Flush radiator.
Causing occasional 9 Purge the system.
burping. 9 Purge the system.
6. Faulty expansion bottle 9 Replace the cap/ pipe.
cap or pipe.
Coolant loss- boil over Gas mixing
1. Cylinder head gasket 9 Replace the cylinder
failure. head gasket.
Pressurization
2. Defective radiator cap 9 Replace the cap.
timing.
3. Improper engine 9 Check the engine
timing timing, injector
Belt pressure.
1. Slipping belts 9 .Adjust belt tension.
2. Belt failure 9 Replace belt
Water pump
1. Water pump shaft 9 Replace water pump
broken or damaged
impeller.
Thermostat 9 Replace Thermostat.
1. Faulty 9 Replace hoses.
Thermostat.
Hoses.
1. Radiator hoses
collapsed
9 Replace fan.
Fan 9 Clean the radiator fins.
1. Fan blades 9 Remove the
broken obstruction.
Air flow 9 Check the brake
1. Air flow reduced system.
Cooling System-6
to choked fins
2. Airflow reduced due to
obstruction.
Vehicle
Brakes dragging.
High Temperature Improper indication 9 Replace the sensor.
Indication 1. Faulty sensor 9 Replace the gauge
2. Faulty gauge
Coolant entry into 1. Low cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder
Crankcase or cylinder torque. head gasket, torque as
2. Faulty head gasket. per procedure.
3. Blow hole in 9 Replace the cylinder
crankcase, head , head gasket,
liner 9 Replace the affected
part.
Low Temperature Gauge 1. Thermostat stuck open 9 Replace thermostat.
Indication- Under cooling 2. Faulty sensor. 9 Replace sensor.
3. Faulty gauge. 9 Replace gauge.
Coolant reserve system 1. Coolant level low 9 Replenish coolant to
inoperative 2. Leak in system FULL level.
3. Overflow tube clogged 9 Pressure test to isolate
or leaking. & repair.
4. Recovery bottle vent 9 Remove clogging
blocked. 9 Clean vent.
5. Radiator cap defective. 9 Change the cap.

Cooling System-7
Care of the System
Unless there is loss of coolant the coolant additive added is adequate for
50,000 KMs of the vehicle.
The recommended coolant additive is given in the Recommended Coolant
section.
The fan belt tension should not fall below 450 N.

Cooling System-8
In Car repairs
Fan belt replacement.
Fan and Shroud removal & fitment; Fan checking procedure.
Water pump removal.
Radiator removal

Cooling System-9
Fan belt – R&R
Nut/ Bolt description Torque Value

– Nm.
Cooling Fan mtg. nut 45 + 05

Refer illustration shown. 1. Refit accessory drive belt.
1. Remove NVH cover. 2. Refit power steering drive belt.
1. Remove Fan & shroud. (Follow SOP)
2. Remove power stg. Drive belt. 3. Refit Fan & shroud.
(Refer SOP) 4. Check both belt tensions.
3. Remove accessory drive belt. 5. Refit NVH barrier.
Check the drive belts visually for any crack, fraying.

Refer specifications and follow Torque chart while assembling.
Follow all the steps of Steering belt adjustment, refer procedure.

Cooling System-10
Fan and Shroud – R&R

Nm.
NVH Cover mtg. bolt 07 + 02
Cooling Fan 45 + 05
Cooling Fan – Front View Cooling Fan – Rear View
Removal Procedure –
1. Remove Coolant reservoir tank.

2. Loosen the cooling fan nut on rear side mounted on water pump. Refer above
sketches.
3. Press the upper lock and Lift Shroud in upward direction to remove, refer
illustration shown. Fan and shroud assembly can now take out of engine
compartment.
4. The fan blade assembly and the VFD assembly can be removed together.
1 3

Cooling System-11
Note that the threads are anticlockwise threads. Hence to loosen then the
direction of rotation has to be clockwise when viewed from front.
Do not tamper or service the center portion of the fan.
The nut should rest on pulley after tightening.

Cooling System-12
COOLING FAN FUNCTION – CHECK
1. First check fan blades for damage or cracks, if noticed replace fan.
2. Ensure that fluid in fan clutch is not leaking. In case of leak, the fluid quantity
must decrease and so fan speed will decrease and engine may overheat.
3. Check bimetal strip for damage.
4. Rotate fan by hand, if it give some sense of resistance the fan is ok. If fan
turns lightly, it is faulty.

Cooling System-13
Water Pump – R&R

Water pump mtg. 25 + 03
bolt

1. Remove NVH cover, Fan & 1. Replace water pump ‘O’ ring.
shroud. 2. Refit water pump assy.
2. Remove intercooler 3. Reconnect coolant hoses.
assembly. 4. Reconnect Cam sensor socket.
3. Remove both drive belts. 5. Refit both drive belts.
4. Remove Cam sensor 6. Refit intercooler, Fan, shroud &
socket. NVH cover.
5. Remove coolant hoses on 7. Add & Check coolant level,
water pump assembly. Check both belt tensions.
6. Remove water pump assy.

Cooling System-14
Do not remove the cylinder block drain plate or the radiator drain cock with
the system hot and pressurized. Serious burns from the splashing of hot
coolant can occur.
Before draining the system. The system pressure has to be relieved.
Holding the radiator cap with a rag slowly open the radiator cap.
The water may splash upward; causing injury.
It is suggested that the water pump should not be serviced. This is so
because when the seals have to be changed, then both the impeller as well
as the pulley needs to be changed. (Interference fit, removal will make them
oval.)
Further when assembling the water pump seals the dimension of the impeller
from the seating face as well as the pulley pressing is critical. (If not
maintained will have low seal life and low belt life)
The fan belt tension has to be measured between the alternator & water
pump pulley.
Refilling of Coolant –
After installation of Radiator and sub components, slowly pour the coolant into
the radiator until the radiator is full and also pour coolant into the reservoir
bottle to the maximum level.
Start the engine and warm up until the thermostat valve opens.
After raving the engine several times, stop the engine.
Once the engine cools down, refill the radiator as well as the coolant reservoir
tank again to the full level.

Cooling System-15
Radiator - R&R
2 3
Pre removal activities –

Coolant draining.
Post fitment activities –
Refill & check coolant level.
Removal Steps – Refer above illustrations.

1. Remove Fan and shroud.
2. Remove radiator upper & bottom hoses.
3. Remove radiator upper LH and RH mounting brackets. Refer fig.2
4. Remove radiator upper and bottom rubber mountings on LH and RH
side. Refer fig.3
5. Take radiator assembly out from engine compartment.

Cooling System-16
Do not remove the cylinder block drain plug or the radiator drain cock with the
system hot and pressurized.
Serious burns from the splashing coolant can occur.
Before draining the system. The system pressure has to be relieved.
Holding the radiator cap with a rag slowly open the radiator cap.
The water may splash upward causing injury
Remove the radiator inlet and outlet hose. Remove the fan shroud.
Remove the radiator mounting bolts and remove the radiator along with the
pipe connecting it to the no loss tank.
When the coolant has drained out, pour clean water through the radiator filling
neck to clean out the coolant lines.
Coat the thread of the engine block coolant with a special adhesive and
tighten it up to the specified torque.
Securely tighten the radiator drain plug.
Refilling of Coolant –
After installation of Radiator and sub components, slowly pour the coolant into
the radiator until the radiator is full and also pour coolant into the reservoir
bottle to the maximum level.
Start the engine and warm up until the thermostat valve opens.
After revving the engine several times, stop the engine.
Once the engine cools down, refill the radiator as well as the coolant reservoir
tank again to the full level.

Cooling System-17
Brief of the Water Pump
Water Pump
A centrifugal water pump is used to circulate the coolant through the water jackets,
cylinder head, hoses and radiator. The water pump is belt driven by the engine main
pulley.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the shaft. The shaft is supported on two
bearings that are integral to the shaft. The water pump pulley is also pressed on to
the shaft.
The water pump seal is located between the impeller and the housing. The housing
has a small hole to allow the seepage to escape. That also acts as an indication point
if the water pump seal fails.
Do not remove the radiator drain cock or the Engine coolant drain plug with the
engine in hot condition.
Always remove the pressure on the system by removing the radiator cap
before undertaking any work on the cooling system.
If the coolant is not contaminated then collect the coolant in a clean container
so that it can be reused. Replace coolant as per recommendation

Cooling System-18
Specifications
Description Specification
Radiator capacity 2.0 liters
Cooling system capacity 10 liters
BASF’s-GLYSANTIN G45-23
Coolant / Mahindra Maximile
Ratio 30%- Glysantin G45-23

Mahindra Maximile is premixed.
Coolant to be added after 10 liters- Mahindra Maximile
draining/flushing 3 liter if Glysantin G 45-23
Radiator pressure 0.9 bar
No of fan blades 11
Fan Belt tension

Main drive belt 83 ± 3 Hz
Steering Pump drive belt 162 ± 2.5 Hz
Tightening Torques
Description Torque Value Nm(lb-ft)

Sub assembly of radiator and 6.5 + 0.5 Nm(4.7 lb-ft)
condenser & radiator outlet hose &
condenser pipe , seals
Dirty side hose with RH side body 10 + 2 Nm(7.3 lb-ft)
panel
Air filter and wheel arch panel 25 + 5 Nm(18 lb-ft)
Clean side hose with air filter 4.5 + 0.5 Nm(3 lb-ft)
Intercooler mounting 22 + 2 Nm(16 lb-ft)
Engine cover mounting 7 + 2 Nm(5 lb-ft)
Intercooler Hose clamp 4.5 + 0.5 Nm(3 lb-ft)
Bottom seal mounting on chassis 8 + 2 Nm(6 lb-ft)
cross member
Radiator top bracket bolt 22 + 2 Nm(16 lb-ft)
Side Seal mounting on radiator 4.25 + 0.5 Nm (3 lb-ft)
Water pump mounting bolt 35 ± 5 Nm ( 26 ± 4 lb-ft)
Water drain plug 35 ± 5 Nm ( 26 ± 4lb-ft)

Fuel System-1
Fuel System – mEagle
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Dismantling, Inspection & overhaul of the Fuel Injection

Equipment
Specification

Fuel System-2
Description
The fuel system can be divided into following subgroups.
Fuel filling.
Fuel supply from tank to High Pressure pump.
High Pressure Pump & injectors including the High pressure pipes.
Return line from High Pressure Pump to tank
The fuel is filled from the opening provided at rear left. The fuel cap is ventilated and
threaded type. The cap is locked in place when further turning action result in clicking
of the ratchet. The fuel tank lid is electrically operated. The switch is fitted on the
centre bezel.
While filling the tank, the air entrapped inside is vented by the vent tube, which is
connected at the mouth of the inlet pipe. The venting is done from the highest point in
the fuel tank. The fuel tank has a capacity of 55 liters.
During operation the fuel pump due to the vacuum created by the internal feed pump
the fuel is sucked through the filter, to the high pressure pump. The high pressure
pump, pressurizes, & supplies the fuel to the common rail. The fuel then comes to
the injectors. The fuel back leak from injectors and return from HPP comes through
return line.
The entire length of the fuel tank is protected at the bottom by a stone guard.
For the detailed understanding of the Common rail system, please refer the
Common Rail System (CR System) explained separately.

Fuel System-3
Engine will not 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Change fuel filter

start & emit fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply
black smoke 2. Defective injectors line.
9 Refer diagnostic
manual
Noisy engine & black 1. Injector coking. 9 Clean external

smoke. 2. CR System coking
9 Refer the
diagnostic manual
Engine speed falls off. 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Change fuel filter
fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply
2. Check the strainer in the line.
fuel tank & any dust 9 Refer diagnostic
accumulations in the diesel manual.
tank
Engine does not give full 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Change fuel filter
power. fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply
2. Defective injectors. line.
9 Replace filters.
9 Locate the
kink/block
in return pipe and
rectify.
9 Refer diagnostic
manual
Black smoke. 1. Defective injectors 9 Check injectors.

2. CR system 9 Refer diagnostic.
Engine will not 1. No diesel 9 Fill in diesel

start 2.Weak battery 9 Check the battery
3. Corroded or loose specific gravity.
battery connection 9 Clean & tighten
4. Faulty starter. battery
5. CR system connections.
9 Repair starter.
9 Refer diagnostic
Manual.

Fuel System-4
The fuel injection system depends on supply of clean diesel fuel for the proper
functioning of the fuel system. To ensure that High Pressure Pump receives clean
fuel all the times it is advisable that the fuel filter is replaced at the specified intervals.
The fuel filter should be changed at every 20,000 Kms. If the operating conditions
are poor then reduce the change interval. The fuel filter is equipped with water
separator. If the water level indication comes on in the instrument panel, then the
water should be immediately drained.
The internal components of the High Pressure Pump depend on the lubricating
properties of diesel for lubricating them. Hence, if water is present in the fuel then
lubrication between the component break down and there is seizure.
In Car Repairs –
The In Car repairs which can be carried out are:
Removal & Replacement of the fuel filer
Draining the water from the fuel filters.
Removal & Refitting of Injectors.
Removal & Refitting of Common Rail
Removal & Refitting the HPP
Use of MST – HP Pump removal
Removal & Refitting of the fuel tank.

Fuel System-5
Removal & Replacement of the fuel filer —
Refer illustrations shown above.

1. Loosen the Fuel Filter Element.
2. Loosen ‘Water in Fuel Sensor’ at the bottom of the Fuel Filter element.
3. Fit the ‘Water in Fuel Sensor’ taken out from old Fuel Filter Element on the New
Fuel Filter Element.
4. Fit the New Element fitted with sensor on the filter body, tighten properly.
5. While changing the fuel filter, remove the fuel tank cap.
6. While bleeding loosen only the bleed screw. If the suction or outlet pipes are
opened then the copper washers need to be changed. If this precaution is not taken
then later the complaint or rail pressure deviation (P1193/P1192) can be reported.
Draining the water from the fuel filter –

1. Loosen Water in Fuel Sensor at the

bottom of the Fuel Filter.
2. Allow the Water accumulated in the filter

to
drain out.
3. Tighten the Water in Fuel Sensor

properly.

Fuel System-6
INJECTOR - R&R
Removal Steps –
Following steps recommended while removing Injector No.1, 2 or 3 –
(Here Injector No.1 is the 1st injector from Fan side)
1. Remove NVH cover & intercooler assembly.
2. Loosen the high-pressure pipes from both the common rail end & injectors.
3. Remove the leak off pipe.
4. Remove connector on Injector which is to be removed.
5. Remove HP fuel line connected on that Injector & Common rail.
6. Remove Injector assembly, No.1, 2 or 3.
Following additional activities to be done to remove Injector No. 4 –
7. Remove plenum appliqué & wiper motor along with linkages.
8. Remove sockets & fuel line connection on injector no. 4
9. Remove Injector no. 4.
NOTE: While refitting, the injector uses a new washer between the injector & cylinder
head. (Thickness of washer should be 3mm) Avoid using two-injector washer. It will
change the injector tip height and affect combustion.

Fuel System-7
Common Rail Assembly R&R

High pressure fuel line 25 ± 03
nuts.
CR assembly mtg. 15 ± 02
bolts

1. Remove NVH cover. 1. Refit CR assembly.
2. Remove high pressure 2. Replace new high
pipe line on Common rail pressure fuel lines on CR
& all injectors. to all injectors.
3. Remove high pressure 3. Replace new high
fuel line from CR to HP pressure fuel line on HP
pump. pump to CR assy.
4. Remove socket from CR 4. Reconnect socket on CR
assy. assy.
High CR
5. Remove pressure
assy. fuel pipes to be replaced once
5. Start it is removed.
engine & Check fuel
leak and engine
performance.

Fuel System-8
High Pressure Fuel Pump – R&R
Fuel pump Sprocket 35 ± 03
mounting nut.
HP pump mtg. nut. 25 ± 03
Check FIP Front cover ‘O’ ring for damage, replace if required.
Use MST 0305BC007ST to hold HP fuel pump sprocket during HP pump
removal.
Refer below procedure for removal of HPP with MST 0305BC007ST.

1. Remove NVH cover, Fan & 1. Refit HP pump assembly.
shroud. 2. Reconnect all fuel pipes on
1. Remove intercooler assy. HP pump.
2. Remove both drive belts. 3. Remove MST and refit pump
3. Remove high pressure fuel cover on front cover.
line & hoses on fuel pump. 4. Refit both drive belts.
4. Remove fuel pump cover 5. Refit intercooler assy. and
plate from engine front cover. Fan, shroud, NVH cover.
5. Use MST to hold HP pump 6. Check & insure for no fuel
sprocket. leakage from system.
6. Remove HP pump.
HP Pump Remover -
Fuel System-9
0305BC007ST HP Pump Remover mEagle Engine
1 Removal Steps:
1. Remove high pressure pipes.
2. Remove HPP inspection cover from front
cover.
3. Remove sprocket locking nut & spring
washer of high pressure pump.
4. Mount plate of HPP removal tool on front
cover with flanged bolts (Size M6 x 20 qty. 3
nos. Refer Photograph No. 1) Hand tight the
bolts.
2 5. Rotate the engine to align 4-nos. of tapped
holes (size M6) of sprocket with slots provided
on plate.
6. Assemble bolts (size M6 x 50, qty. 4 nos.)
with plain washer (Refer Photograph No. 2) to
hold the sprocket in position.
7. Remove 3 nuts for high pressure pump
mounting on crankcase studs from rear side.
8. Assemble threaded bolt (size M14 x 45,
refer Photograph No. 3) through central
threaded hole of tool.
3 9. Rotate the threaded bolt with 22 mm
spanner, so that high pressure pump is
h d tf k t
Slots on plate to align the screw with tapper
holes of sprocket
Threaded
1. Remove centre bolt M14 x 45 of the tool. Do not remove sprocket holding bolts
(size M6 x 50, qty. 4 nos.) from the plate.
2. Ensure HP pump ‘O’ ring is in place. Apply oil / grease to ‘O’ ring before
insertion.
3. Re-assemble HP pump on the studs & tighten 3 nuts on crankcase to 25 Nm
torque.
4. Remove 4 nos. of sprocket holding bolts (size M6 x 50) from plate.
5. Remove plate by loosening bolts (size M6 x 20, qty. 3 nos.).
6. Assemble spring washer & lock nut on HPP shaft & tighten nut to 70 Nm
torque.
7. Check inspection cover ‘O’ ring for damages, if damaged – replace.
8. Assemble inspection cover on front cover with 3 nos. of M6 bolts & tighten to 8-
10 Nm torque (Take care not to slip threading in front cover)

Rep
pair Manuaal MAN-00052
Xylo
lo mEagle Jan 200
09/Rev 1
Fuel Systtem-10
Fue
el tanks an
nd Straine
er – Cleaning
B
Reffer above illu

ustrations.
Rem
move the Fu
uel Tank fro
om the vehiccle, refer sk
ketches A & B.
1. Take out
o the ‘Fu uel Strainer with main line asssembly’ byy removing the
fastenin
ng bolts.
2. Blow thhe compresssed air grradually with low presssure as pe er the direc
ction
indicate
ed by the arrrow in the illustration above.
a
3. Clean the
t fuel tank. Comple ete the Fuel Tank Asssembly & refit it on the
vehicle.
4. While re
eplacing Fuuel tank stra
ainer fuel tank removal is must.
All cop
pyrights reserved by
The repa
air methods given by the
e manufacturer in this doccument are based on the
e technical specifications current at the time of rele
ease. The methods may be modified as a result of
o
changess introduced by the manu
ufacturer in the production of the various compone
ent units and accessoriess from which the vehicless are manufactured. The reproduction, translation
n,
transmisssion, in part of whole of the present document, are

a prohibited without the prior written consent of © 2009 Mahindraa & Mahindra Ltdd.
Fuel System-11
1. Common Rail system
The CRS is briefly given in the schematic sketch:
While trying to explain it in block diagrams it is represented by:
The common rail system can be divided into the following subsystems:
Low pressure hydraulic system.

High pressure hydraulic system.
Input sensors.
ECU
Actuators.

Fuel System-12
System Block
1. Sensors/Systems & set point generators. Used for registration of the operating
conditions & the desired values. These convert a variety of physical parameters into
electrical signals.
2. ECU for generating the output signal by processing the information using specified
arithmetic operations (control algorithms)
3. Actuators to control the output signal into mechanical parameters.
1. The Sensors in the system are:

Crankshaft speed sensor / Incremental speed sensor (ISS)
Cam Phase sensor / Segment Speed sensor
HFM Sensor
Coolant temperature sensor
Fuel temperature sensor
Clutch pedal position sensor
Brake position sensor
AC Request sensor.
Accelerator pedal position sensor.
2. The actuators are:

Injector (injector solenoid)
EGR
High Pressure Pump – inlet metering (MPROP)
Temperature Gauge
Tachometer
Glow plug (where applicable)
Engine check lamp

Fuel System-13
Crankshaft speed sensor:
Location: On the clutch housing.
Function: The piston position in the combustion chamber is decisive in defining the
start of the injection. All the engine pistons are connected to the crankshaft by con
rods. A sensor on the crankshaft thus provides information on the position of all the
pistons. The rotational speed defines the crankshaft RPM.
This important input, variable is calculated in the ECU using the signal from the
inductive crankshaft speed sensor
Signal Generation
A 60 teeth ferromagnetic trigger wheel is

attached to engine flywheel. Out of the 60
teeth, 2 are missing, so there are 58 teeth.
This large gap is allocated to a defined
crankshaft position for the cylinder 1.
The crankshaft speed sensor registers the
trigger wheels tooth sequence.
It comprises a permanent magnet and a
soft- iron core with a copper winding.
The magnetic flux in the sensor changes as
the teeth and gaps pass by, and a
sinusoidal AC voltage is generated, the
amplitude of which increases sharply in
response to higher engine speeds.
Adequate amplitude is already available
from speeds as low as 50 min
Calculation of the engine speed
The angular relationship between the piston is such that two rotations

Fuel System-14
(720 °Pass before the start of each new working cylinder. So the angular ignition
spacing is = 720 °/4 = 180 °)
In other words the CSS scans 30 teeth between two ignitions. The period of time
requires is known as segment time and the mean of the crankshaft speed in the
segment time is the engine speed.
Do’s & Don’ts for the Engine Speed Sensor
Do’s -
Rotational speed sensor must be removed from its packing just prior to
installation in the vehicle.
Sensor to be mounted by pushing it into place.
The first support of wire after connection: Max 250 mm. It should be on the
sensor carrier.
Replace damaged O-Ring.
Clean and grease O-Ring prior to installation with mineral oil based grease.
Fix with only partially self-sealing cylindrical screw M6X12.
Tightening Torque specification should be 8 ± 2 Nm.
Storage temperature: -20ºC to 50ºC.
Don’ts -
Don’t allow the sensor to fall down.
Do not hammer the sensor while fitting.
Do not bend sensor wire with radius less than R = 50 mm.
The angle between sensor exit and first support of the wire should not be
more than 90º.
Do not short circuit the connector pins while the sensor is functioning.
Sensor should not be kept near hot medium or objects with Temp > 120 ºC.
Sensor should not be kept near any strong Magnetic Materials.
None of the application guidelines should be deviated (Air gap etc).

Fuel System-15
Cam Phase sensor/ Camshaft speed sensor
Location: On the timing cover facing the camshaft sprocket.
Projection on
Camshaft
The camshaft controls the engine intake and exhaust valves. It travels at half the
engine speed. When a piston travels in the direction of TDC the camshaft position
determines whether it is in compression or exhaust phase. This information can not
be generated by the crankshaft position in the starting phase. During normal
operation on the other hand the information can be generated by the crankshaft
sensor suffices to define the engine status. In other word it means that if the
Camshaft sensor fails while the engine is running the ECU shall receive information
on the engine status from the crankshaft sensor.
The camshaft sensor utilizes the Hall effect for establishing the camshaft position. A
tooth of ferromagnetic is attached to the camshaft and rotates with it. When this tooth
passes the semiconductor wafer of the camshaft sensor, its magnetic field diverts the
electrons in the semiconductor wafer at right angle to the direction of the current
flowing through the wafers.
This result in a brief voltage signal (Hall voltage) which informs the ECU that cylinder
1 has entered the compression phase.

Fuel System-16
Do’s & Don’ts for the Cam Phase Sensor
Do’s -
The Phase Sensor should be unpacked directly before installation.
Sensor to be mounted by pushing it into place.
Clean and grease O-Ring prior to installation with mineral oil-based grease.
The first support of wire after connection: Max 250 mm. It should be on the
sensor carrier.
Sensor terminal pins should be free from water/moisture.
Fix with only partially micro-capsule screw M6.
Tightening Torque specification should be 8 ± 0.5 Nm.
Don’ts -
Do not hammer the sensor while fitting.
Do not bend sensor wire between the connection and the first support.
Do not touch the sensor pins or the wiring harness pins with hand (to avoid
ESD i.e. Electro static discharge).
None of the application guidelines should be deviated (Air gap etc).
Sensor should not be kept near hot medium or objects with Temp > 160ºC.

Fuel System-17
Temperature sensors -
1. Coolant temperature sensor

Located on the water outlet/ thermostat housing, near thermostat.
2. Fuel Temperature sensor

Located on the bottom of the fuel filter
Type: Negative Temperature coefficient type (NTC)

Fuel System-18
In the cooling circuit, to establish engine temperature by way of the coolant

temperature.
In the fuel return line to measure the fuel temperature. The fuel temperature is used
for density correction.
The sensors are equipped with a temperature dependent resistor with a Negative
temperature coefficient (NTC) which is part of voltage – divider circuit across which 5
V is applied. The voltage drop across the resistor is inputted into the ECU through an
analogue-to–digital converter (ADC) and is a measure for the temperature. A
characteristic curve is stored in ECU microcomputer, which defines the temperature
as a function of the given voltage.
Dos & Don’ts for the Temperature Sensors -
Do’s
During service-After removing temperature sensor, existing Aluminium
washer is to be carefully cut (without damaging the brass threading) and
taken out.
Replace the washer with new Copper washer (MICO 2916 710 608)
Don’ts
Do not exceed the maximum permissible tightening Torque of 18 Nm for
copper washer and 25 Nm for aluminium washer.

Fuel System-19
Hot Film Air mass meter-
The HFM sensor combines two functions. It monitors the airflow & also monitors the
air intake temperature so that the density correction is carried out and also the hot
film temperature is maintained.
Particularly during dynamic driving operation, precise compliance with the correct A/F
ratio is imperative in order to comply with
the exhaust – gas limits as stipulated by
the regulations. This makes it necessary
to use the sensor, which precisely register
the air- mass flow actually being drawn by
the engine at a particular moment. This
load sensor’s measuring accuracy must
be completely independent of pulsations,
reverse flow, EGR, variable camshaft
control and changes in air intake
temperature.
A hot film air mass meter was selected for

being most suitable for complying with the
above stipulations. The hot film principle is
based on the transfer of heat from heated
sensor element to the air mass flow. A
micromechanical measuring system is
utilized which permits registration of the
air-mass flow and detection of flow
direction. Reverse flows are also detected
in case of strongly pulsating airflow.
The micromechanical sensor element is

located in the plug- in sensor’s flow
passage. The plug in sensor is installed in
the outlet of the air cleaner. The signal voltage curve as a function of the air mass
flow is divided into signal ranges for forward and reverse flow. In order to increase
measuring accuracy the measuring signal is referred to a reference voltage outputted
by the engine management. The characteristic curve has been designed so that
during diagnosis in the workshop for an open circuit conductor for instance, can be
detected with the help of the engine management. A temperature sensor is also
incorporated for measuring the air intake temperature (IAT)

Fuel System-20
Accelerator pedal sensor -
Location – in the accelerator pedal

Type – 6 wire, double track potentiometer
Function – informs ECU about driver’s pedal
request.
Purpose – to transmit driver’s pedal request to
ECU
In contrast to the conventional distributor or

inline pumps with CRD the driver’s
acceleration input is no longer directly inputted
to injection pump by the Bowden cable. But the
motion is registered by an accelerator pedal
sensor and is transmitted to the ECU.
A voltage generated across the potentiometer
in the accelerator pedal sensor as a function of
the accelerator pedal setting. Using a
programmed characteristic curve the pedal
positions then calculated from this voltage.
There are two tracks called APP1 & APP2.

The ECU monitors signals from both the
tracks. Even if the relationship between either
changes it is registered as a defect.
Dos and Don’ts
Do’s
Tightening Torque of the retaining screws should not exceed 9 ± 1.5 Nm.
Use only self-locking screws.
After damage or in doubt of damage (e.g. dropped APM) the APM has to be
separated and scrapped.
Don’t
Don’t drop s the sensor.
Do not exceed the maximum permissible tightening Torque.
Do not dip in any liquid.

Fuel System-21
Rail pressure sensor -
Location - on the fuel common rail

Type -
Function - monitors rail pressure
Purpose – to decide on injector energising time
Caution: The rail pressure sensor has to be changed along with the rail. It must not
be removed from the rail assy
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (VSS) –
Location - on the gear box output shaft

Type - magnetic reed type
Function - Monitors the vehicle speed. ECU, based on this information can deduce
the gear in which vehicle is driven.
Purpose - Gear recognition is useful in low speed governing & cruise control
BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH –
Location – in the brake pedal

Type – 4 wire, make-break switch
Function – informs ECU about position of brake pedal, operates brake lamp/stop
lamp
Purpose – help ECU to identify brake actuation for cruise control
CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH –
Location – in the clutch pedal

Type – 4 wire, make-break switch
Function – Informs engine ECU about position of clutch pedal .Also informs 4WD
ECU about position of clutch pedal.
Purpose – help engine ECU to identify clutch actuation for cruise control
ECU
Fuel System-22
Assignment & method of operation:
The ECU evaluates the signal it receives from the external sensors & limits them to
permissible voltage level. From this input data, and from stored characteristic maps,
the ECU microprocessors calculates the injection times and instants of injection and
convert these times to signal characteristic which are adapted to the movements of
engine piston & crankshaft. The specified accuracy and the engines high dynamic
demands high level of computing power.
The output signal from the ECU microprocessors is used to trigger driver stages; it
also provides adequate power for switching the actuators for rail pressure control and
elements switch off. In addition actuators for engine function are triggered (e.g. EGR
actuator) as well as those for further auxiliary functions such as blower relay,
auxiliary heater relay, glow relay, air conditioner). The driver stages are proof against
short circuit and destruction due to brief electrical overloading. Errors of this type and
open circuit are reported to the microprocessor. Diagnosis functions in the injector
driver stages detect faulty signal characteristic, and in addition a number of the
output signal are transferred via interfaces for use in other systems in the vehicle.
And within the framework of a special safety concept, the ECU monitors the complete
fuel injection system.
Injector triggering particularly places heavy demands on the driver stages.
In the injector, the current from the driver stage generates a magnetic force in the
triggering element, which is applied to the injector’s high pressure system. In order to
ensure very tight tolerances and high reproducibility of the injected fuel quantity,
these coils must be triggered with steep current flanks. This necessities high voltages
being made available in the ECU.
A current control circuit divides the energisation time (injection time) into a pickup
current phase and hold phase. It must operate so accurately that the injector
guarantees reproducibility injection under all stages. In addition it must reduce the
power loss in the ECU & the injectors
Operating conditions
High demands are made on ECU regarding –

The surrounding ambient temperatures (in normal cases from –40°C to +85°
C)
The resistance to fuels and lubricants etc.
The resistance to humidity and
Mechanical loading.
Very high demand is also made upon the electromagnetic compatibility and
upon the radiation of HF interference signals.
Design & Construction
The ECU has a metal housing. The sensors, the actuators and power supply are
connected to the ECU through a multi pole plug in connector. The power components
that directly trigger the actuators are integrated in the ECU in such a manner that
they can efficiently dissipate their heat to the ECU housing.
Operating state control

Fuel System-23
In order that the engine operates with optimum combustion in every operating state
the ECU in each case calculates the optimum injected fuel quantity. In the process a
number of parameters has to be taken into account
Start quantity
For starting, the injected fuel quantity is calculated as a function of the temperature
and cranking sped. The start quantity is injected from the moment the starting switch
is turned to start till the engine has reached a given minimum speed. The driver has
no influence upon the start quantity
Drive Mode
When the vehicle is being driven normally .The injected fuel quantity is calculated
from the accelerator pedal setting (accelerator pedal sensor) and the engine speed.
Calculation utilizes the driving maps so that the driver inputs and the engine O/P
power are optimally matched to each other.
Idle sped control
At idle, fuel consumption depends for the most part on engine efficiency and idle
speed. Since a considerable portion of vehicles fuel consumption in dense traffic
conditions is attributable to this operating state, it is obvious that the idle speed must
be kept to a minimum. The idle speed though must be set so that no matter what the
operating conditions, it does not drop so far under load that the engine runs roughly
or even stops.
This applies for instances when the electrical systems are overloaded, when the AC
is switched on, or when the power steering is in operation. In order to regulate the
desired idle speed the idle controller varies the injected fuel quantity until the actual
speed equals the desired idle speed. Here the selected gear and the engine
temperature (coolant temperature sensor) influence the desired idle speed and
control characteristic. In addition the external load moments, the internal friction
moments must also be taken into account and compensated by the idle speed
control. These change minimally but steadily through out the vehicle service life, as
well as being highly dependent upon temperature.
Smooth running Control
Due to mechanical tolerances and aging, there are differences in torque generated
by the engine’s individual cylinders. This leads to rough or irregular running,
particularly at idle. The smooth running (cylinder balancing) control measures the
engine speed change every time a cylinder has fired and compares them with each
other. The injected fuel quantity for each cylinder is then adjusted in accordance with
the measured difference in engine speed between the individual cylinders so that
each cylinder makes the same contribution to the torque generated by the engine.
The smooth running control is only operative in the lower engine speed.

Fuel System-24
Controlling the injected fuel quantity limit -
There are a number of reasons why the fuel quantity desired by the driver must not
be injected. These include
Excessive pollutant emissions

Excessive soot emissions
Mechanical overloading due to excessive torques or engines speed.
Thermal overloading due to excessive coolant temperature.
The limit for the injected fuel quantity is formed from the a number of input variables
e.g. intake air mass, engine speed, coolant temperature
Active surge damping control –
When the accelerator pedal is abruptly

pressed or released. It causes the injected
fuel quantity to change rapidly with the result
that there is also a rapid change in the torque
developed by the engine. These abrupt
changes lead to flexible engine mounts and
the drive train generating bucking oscillations
which result in fluctuation of engine speed.
The active surge damper reduces these

periodic speed fluctuations by varying the
injected fuel quantity at the same frequency
as the periodic fluctuations. Less fuel is
injected when the speed increases and more
when it decreases. This effectively damps the
surge movement.
Engine switch off –
The diesel engine operates according to auto ignition principal. This means that it
can only be switched off by cutting the fuel supply. With the CRDi the ECU stipulates
injected fuel quantity zero. (The system also features a number of additional –
redundant switch off paths.)

Fuel System-25
Injectors –
Special injectors with hydraulic servo systems and electrical triggering element
(Solenoid valves) are used in order to achieve efficient start of injection and precise
fuel injected fuel quantity. At the start of the injection a high pickup current is applied
to the injector so that the solenoid opens quickly. As soon as the nozzle needle has
travelled its complete stroke and the nozzle has opened completely. The-energizing
current is reduced to lower holding value. The injector opening time & rail pressure
now defines the injected fuel quantity. Injection is terminated when the solenoid valve
is no longer triggered and closes as a result.

Fuel System-26
M-PROP
The ECU uses the MPROP control valve to control the rail pressure by controlling the
inlet to the high-pressure pump. It is possible to vary the pressure by pulsing (PWM)
the triggering current. The degree to which the pressure control valve is opened or
closed depends on the pulse rate (duty cycle)
The High-pressure pump has the following main components:

Gear Pump: its main job is to give continuous and stable feed of LP pump.
Pump housing: It houses the LP & HP circuits along with the inlet, outlet, and
backflow valve.
Metering unit with Electric regulation (MPROP): It ensures inlet metering thus
only the needed amount of fuel is compressed ensure correct inlet of fuel to
rail.
Drive & Pump elements along with the High pressure valve in the cylinder
head.
Do’s
The critical parts which must always be protected are :
Inlet fitting
Backflow fitting
M-PROP
HP connector
Shaft
While removing & refitting the pump:
Carefully plug both LP fittings & unscrew HP connector.
Verify the integrity of the O ring on pump flange. Replace if broken.
Immediately cover all the openings & shaft with protective caps.
Handle the pump with extreme care.
If the pump falls down, it should not be used (even if looks visually OK).
Don’ts
Do not attempt to open the pump or remove the external components (it will
invalidate the warranty.)
Should you have any starting difficulty do not give direct 12 V current to the
MPROP which will damage the ECU

Fuel System-27
Glow control unit -
The glow control unit is responsible for ensuring efficient cold starting. It also
shortens the warm up period, a fact that is highly relevant for exhaust emissions. The
preheating time is a function of the coolant temperature. The further glow phases
during the engine start or when the engine is actually running are determined by a
number of parameters, which include engine speed and injected fuel quantity. Glow
control utilizes a power relay.
EGR positioner -
Depending upon the engines operating point, the air /gas mass drawn into the
cylinders can be composed of up to 40% of the exhaust gas. For ECU control the
actual drawn in fresh air is measured at each operating point with the air mass
setpoint value. Using her signal generated by the control circuit, the EGR position
opens so that exhaust gases flow into the intake tract.
The ECU controls the movement of the modulator. The modulator controls the
amount of vacuum going to the EGR valve, thus varying the lift of the EGR. The
variable lift of the EGR changes the amount of exhaust gas going to the Inlet system.
Air Conditioner -
Depending on the engine & driving situation the energy consumption is 1 to 30% of
the engine output power. The target is therefore not so much as improvement of the
temperature control, rather the optimum use of the engine torque as soon as the
driver accelerates strongly (and thus requires maximum engine torque) the AC
compressor is switched off by the EDC
Integrated diagnosis:
Sensor monitoring -
For sensor monitoring the integrated diagnosis facility checks whether they are being
supplied by power, and whether the O/P signals are plausible (within the permitted
range e.g. temperature between –40 to 150°C. Where possible the reduancy
principle is applied for important signals. That is in case of a malfunction, a switch is
made to another similar signal.
Monitoring module –
In addition to the microcontroller the ECU also incorporates a monitoring module.

The ECU and the monitoring module monitor each other. If a malfunction is detected,
either of them can switch off the injection independent of the other.
Malfunction detection -
Malfunction detection is only possible within the monitoring range of a given sensor.
A signal path is classified as faulty when an error is present for longer than a
predefined period. In such cases, the error is stored in ECU’s error memory together
with details of the environmental condition which prevailed when the error /
malfunction occurred (e.g. coolant temperature, engine speed etc.) For a large
number of errors/ malfunction, it is possible for the healed status to be established.
Here the signal path must be identified as intact for a defined period of time.
Fuel System-28
Error procedure -
If a sensors permitted output-signal is violated, a switch is made to a substitute value.

This procedure is applied for battery voltage
- Coolant, air, and lube temperature
- Atmospheric pressure
- Intake air quantity
In addition in case of non-plausible signals from the accelerator pedal sensor and/or
brake as substitute accelerator pedal signal is applied.
ECU Data processing -
The actuators and the sensors are the interface between the vehicle and the ECU
Analogue input signals (from analogue sensors; quantity of the air drawn, engine &
intake air temperature, battery voltage etc are converted to digital value by an A/D
converter in the ECU microprocessor.
Digital input signal (e.g. On/Off switching signals or digital signals such as rotational
speed pulse) can be processed directly by the ECU
In order to reduce interference pulses the pulse shaped input signal from inductive
sensor (crankshaft speed sensor) which carry information on engine speed and
reference mark are conditioned by a special circuit in the ECU and converted to
square wave form Some signal conditioning can take place at the sensor end itself.
Signal conditioning -
Protective circuitry is used to limit the incoming signals to a maximum voltage level.
The effective signal is freed almost completely of superimposed interference signals
by means of filtering and is then amplified to match it to the ECU voltage.
Signal Processing in the ECU 1-
Protective circuitry is used to limit the incoming signals to a maximum voltage level.
The effective signal is freed almost completely of superimposed interference signals
by means of filtering and is then amplified to match it to the ECU voltage.
Signal Processing in the ECU 2-

The ECU microprocessors mostly process the input signal digitally and therefore
need a special program. This program is stored in a Read Only Memory (ROM or
Flash-EPROM) In addition the engine specific curves and engine management maps
are stored in a Flash –EPROM.
A volatile random access memory (RAM) is needed to store variable data such as
calculation data and signal values. In order to function correctly, the RAM requires a
permanent power supply. In other words, it loses its complete data stock when the
ECU is switched off via the ignition switch or when the vehicle battery is
disconnected. In such cases the adaptation values (values, which have been learnt
regarding engine & operating conditions,) would have to be re-established when the
ECU is switched on again. To prevent this adaptation values are stored in an
EEPROM and not in a RAM
Output signals
With their output signals, the microprocessors trigger output stages, which usually
are powerful enough for direct connection to the actuators. The triggering of the
individual actuators is dealt with in the particular system description. These output
Fuel System-29
stages are proof against short circuit to ground or to batter voltage, as well as
destruction due to electrical overload. Such faults are recognized by the output
stages and reported to the microprocessor. This also applies to the conductor open
circuit. In addition a number of output signals are transmitted through interface to the
other systems in the vehicle.
Location Torque in Nm
High pressure pipe pump to Rail 25 ± 03 Nm
High pressure pipe to Rail 35 Nm

High Pressure Pipe to injector 27 ± 02 Nm
Injector holder clamping 25 ± 03 Nm
Rail mounting on intake 22.5 ± 2.5 Nm

manifold
High Pressure Pump mtg. nuts 25 ± 03 Nm
Fuel Pump Sprocket mtg. nut 35 ± 03 Nm

Emission Control System-1
Emission Control system
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
Checking the System

Description
The 2.4.L engine meets the BS III emission norms.
Overall, two systems are used.
¾ Exhaust Gas re circulation
¾ Closed crankcase ventilation
Working Principle of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation –
During acceleration and in higher loads the engine generates high combustion
temperatures. The high combustion temperatures increase the NOx generation. The
higher percentage of NOx generated in the combustion chamber come out through
the tail pipe in the atmosphere. To reduce the amount of NOx coming through the tail
pipe the EGR system adds exhaust gases into the fresh air that is going into the
combustion chamber. Since the exhaust, gas is already burnt hence when mixed with
fresh air acts an inert gas. The role it does is that it reduces the amount of oxygen
available for combustion. The net effect is that it reduces the peak combustion
temperatures. This results in lower amount of NOx being generated.
To control the amount/percentage of exhaust gases to be circulated back to the

combustion chamber the ECU, which is already controlling the common rail
functions, is used.
The ECU monitors the air flow, coolant temperature, attitude, engine speed, and
accelerator pedal position. Based on the above parameters the ECU operates a
switch that in turn controls the amount of vacuum going to the EGR valve. The
amount of vacuum applied controls the lift of the EGR valve. The lift of the EGR valve
is sensed.

1 2

Working principle of Crankcase Ventilation System –
Functional block diagram of the Crankcase ventilation is given below –

The ventilation system is closed ventilation type.
The oil vapors from the rocker cover go to the labyrinth type oil separator, which is
mounted directly on top of the cam cover. The outlet from the labyrinth is connected
in series to a centrifugal type oil separator. The collected oil is drained back to the
sump. The gases enter the intake system in between the air cleaner and the
turbocharger.
Certain amount of oil will be carried from the oil separator to the Air inlet hose, which
is normal. However if it is excessive please look for all the causes mentioned in the
high blow bye.

Engine does not give full 1. Gas leak between 9 Change the gasket or
power. EGR pipe joints. the hose.
2. EGR pipe leak. 9 Change the pipe.
3. EGR valve improper 9 Check the EGR using
functioning. the blink codes.
4. Vacuum hose crack, 9 Proceed appropriately.
loose, fallen off 9 Ensure vacuum
connections at vacuum
modulator, reservoir
and alternator.
Noisy engine & high 1. Cylinder head gasket 9 Replace the cylinder
smoke defective. head gasket.
2. Worn out or damaged 9 Lap the valve seats or
valve seats. regrind.
3. Leaking injector holder. 9 Tighten the injector
4. Leakage at EGR Valve holder.
flange face, exhaust 9 Confirm & check
manifold and EGR pipe -Gasket condition
end. - Bolt torque.
Black smoke 1. EGR valve stuck 9 Check the EGR valve.

open
Excessive oil consumption 1. Cracked vacuum 9 Check the vacuum line
line hoses from the alternator to
2. Restriction in the EGR valve (for
crankcase BSII)- check for leaks,
breather. crack.
3. Damaged oil separator 9 Replace cracked
4. Bend/kink in any 9 Locate & remove
of the oil return restriction.
pipe’s/vacuum hoses. 9 Check the crankcase
ventilation & rectify.
9 Replace the oil
separator
9 Change the vacuum
hoses.
9 Remove the bend or
kinks.

Care of the System
To meet the emission norms it is essential that the Fuel system, Air intake system &
cooling system be maintained as per the schedule .For details refer to the particular
section
Generally it is not appreciated that if the engine is running below the optimum
temperature (happens when thermostat is removed then tailpipe emissions in
particular the particulate increases (up to 30%). Similarly a wrong grade or poor
quality of fuel increases the emissions. A blocked air cleaner or restriction in intake
system increases the emissions
Oil separator system –

Check the hose connection at every 10,000 KMs for cracks, aging and leaks.
EGR –
On vehicles fitted with EGR system the following additional points check have to
done during scheduled maintenance.
• Check for any exhaust gas leakage through sealing faces, EGR pipe.
Formation of any black soot indicates leakage.
• Check the vacuum hoses for any leaks, cracks.
• Retighten all nuts and bolts as per the recommend torque.
♦ If the pipes are removed then it is essential that while fitting back new gaskets is
used.
EGR Valve –
Remove the EGR valve and check it valve-sticking, deposition of carbon etc.
If excess carbon deposits and sticky valve noticed then it should be cleaned with a
suitable solvent, so that the correct valve seat is ensured.
After cleaning the valve blow air from the bottom side of the valve and check for any
leakages.
To check for the functioning of the EGR valve apply vacuum on the vacuum
connection of the EGR valve.
EGR Pipe –
Remove the EGR pipe and check for gas leakage, damages etc. Clean the gasket
seating area from any carbon deposits burrs etc. Spray WD 40 rust cleaning spray on
the nut.
To check the pipe for any leakages, close one end of flange and from other end blow
air at two bars. Dip the pipe in water and observe if any leakage is observed. If any
leaks are observed then the pipe has to be replaced. Do not attempt to weld/ seal the
leakage joint.
EGR Actuator Controller (modulator)–

The solenoid switch does not require any maintenance. For any damage replace the
component.
EGR ECU –
The EGR is controlled by the ECU controlling the Common rail.
However, like any ECU care has to be taken that if any welding work is being carried
out on the vehicle then the battery terminals are removed. Similarly, the practices of
shorting the battery to check the battery have to be avoided. (It can cause a spike.).
The practice of changing battery with a running engine is also not acceptable. Again,
the resultant spike can damage the controller beyond repairs
Checking the System
EGR System –
Any errors in the EGR system be registered as a DTC code.

The DTC codes can be viewed by using the “Smart Tester”.
EXHAUST PIPE FRONT – R&R
Removal Steps –
Refer illustrations shown A & B.
1. Remove front pipe joint from TC end.
2. Remove front pipe joint on Muffler assembly.
Replace exhaust pipe gasket while assembly.

All copyrights Check
reserved by and ensure for no exhaust gas leakage from system.
MUFFLER ASSEMBLY – R&R
Removal Steps –
Refer illustration shown A & B.
1. Remove Muffler joint on front pipe.
2. Remove Muffler joint on tail pipe.
3. Remove rubber hanger on muffler assembly.
Replace exhaust pipe gaskets while refitting muffler assembly.
Check and ensure for no exhaust gas leakage from system.

EXHAUST TAIL PIPE – R&R
Removal Steps –
Refer illustration shown A & B.
4. Remove Tail pipe joint on Muffler assembly.
5. Remove rubber hanger on tail pipe assembly.
Replace exhaust pipe gaskets while assembly.
Check and ensure for no exhaust gas leakage from system.

EXHAUST SYSTEM – CHECK
1
2
EXHAUST SYSTEM – CHECK

1. Check all the Exhaust joints & clips for leakage and correct fittings.
2. Check all the Exhaust mountings/ rubber hangers for exhaust pipe fouling and
correct fittings.
Check and ensure for no exhaust gas leakage from system
Tightening Torque-
Description Torque Value Nm(lb-ft)

Exhaust pipe assembly with 25 + 5Nm(18 lb-ft)
Turbocharger
Exhaust pipe assembly with Muffler 35 + 5Nm(25 lb-ft)
assembly component
Tail pipe assembly with muffler 35 + 5Nm(25 lb-ft)
assembly component
Fitment of assy exhaust pipe front and 25 + 5Nm(18 lb-ft)
catcon

Clutch-1
Clutch
Description
Trouble Shooting
In Car Repairs
Clutch Actuation Mechanism
Clutch overhaul
Inspection
Specification & Wear Limit
Tightening Torques
Lubricant
List of the MSTs

Clutch-2
Description
The clutch disc is a single, dry type with cushion springs in the hub. The clutch disc’s
friction material is riveted to the hub. The clutch cover is a diaphragm type with one-
piece construction. A 240-mm clutch disc is used. In the engaged position (when the
clutch pedal is not pressed), the diaphragm spring of the clutch cover assembly holds
the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc. This enables the engine torque to
be transmitted to the input shaft of the gearbox, without any slip / loss.
The clutch is hydraulically actuated with self-adjusting features. The complete

actuation system comprises of a clutch master cylinder with integral reservoir. The
master cylinder is connected to the clutch actuation or the slave cylinder by hydraulic
pipe. The travel of the push rod results in linear movement of the release bearing
through a release fork pivoted on a ball in the clutch housing.
The clutch release bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center towards the flywheel.
The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch plate.
Steel spring straps riveted to the pressure plate cover pulls the pressure plate away
from the clutch disc. When the clamping load on the clutch plate is relieved it slides
on the splines of the input shaft away from the flywheel thus disengaging the engine
torque from the input shaft & enabling the gears to be changed.

Clutch-3
While topping up use the recommended fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications
only. Avoid mixing different brands. The clutch fluid is hygroscopic fluids hence tend
to collect humidity. The humidity along with the brake fluid can cause acidic reaction
& seizure of the master & slave cylinders. The clutch fluid should be replaced every
40,000 km or every 2 years, whichever is earlier. The master & clutch cylinder seals
to be replace every 50,000 KMs
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is extremely obvious, accurate problem
diagnosis will require a road test to confirm that the problem exists. To find out the
actual root cause of the problem the clutch will have to be dismantled and the failed
parts examined to determine the cause.
During road test, drive the vehicle in normal operating speeds. Shift the gears and
observe the clutch action. If chatter, grab, slip or improper release is experienced,
remove & inspect the parts
However if problem is noise or hard shift then the problem may not be in clutch only
but also the transmission or the driveline. If the clutch slip is suspected then drive the
vehicle in 1st or 2nd gear at the top speed (corresponding to the gear). Keeping the
accelerator fully pressed; slowly apply the brake- with your left feet. If the engine
stalls then the clutch is not slipping.

Clutch-4
Clutch Problem Causes –
Fluid contamination is the most frequent cause of clutch malfunction. Oil, water on
the clutch contact surface will cause faulty operation viz. Slip, grab, and judder.
During inspection check if any parts in the clutch are coated with oil or water splash
from road. Oil contamination indicates a leak at either rear main seal or transmission-
input shaft. The oil leaks from either of these areas will normally coat the housing
interior or clutch cover or flywheel. Heat build up due to slippage between the clutch
plate and the flywheel or the pressure plate can result into the leaked oil literally
getting baked. Visually this will result in a glazed residue varying from amber to
black.
Roads splash contamination will mean that the dirt water is entering the clutch
housing either due to loose bolt or torn rubber boot.
Clutch misalignment –
The clutch component i.e. the clutch plate, flywheel and the pressure plate have to
be aligned with the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. Misalignment caused
by runout/ war page will cause clutch to grab judder as well as improper release (also
manifesting as hard gearshift).

Clutch-5
Flywheel runout –
The flywheel runout needs to be checked whenever misalignment is suspected.

Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.10 mm.
To measure the runouts mount the base of the magnetic dial gauge on the block.
Locate the dial gauge’s needle on the outer surface of the flywheel.
Some of the common reasons for excessive runout are –
Heat war page.

Improper machining.
Incorrect bolt tightening
Foreign material on crankshaft flange or flywheel.
Improper seating on crankshaft.
Clutch cover & Disc runout –
A warped cover or diaphragm spring will result in clutch grab and / or incomplete
release of clutch plate. If the clutch alignment tool is not used then the misalignment
of the clutch plate can cause distortion of the cover and also disc damage. The cover
can also get misaligned due to improper tightening of the cover onto the flywheel.
The only way to avoid is that the bolts must be tightened alternatively (diagonal
pattern) and evenly i.e. 2 to 3 thread a time only. A noisy gearshift operation
especially the 1st and 2nd gear can be due to clutch not getting disengaged
completely. To check it, jack up the rear axle. Lift the axle till both the wheels are
rotating freely. Press the clutch pedal completely and start the engine, the wheels
should not be spinning. Now slowly release the pedal till it has moved about 10 mm,
the wheel should still not be spinning. If some spinning is noticed then it indicates
improper lift of the pressure plate. First check the bleeding and the pedal travel then
check for the pressure plate lift.
Clutch Housing Misalignment –
The clutch housing has to be aligned with the engine so that the input shaft is aligned
with the crankshaft. Absence of this alignment results in clutch noise, incomplete
release of the clutch plate. It can normally be judged by uneven wear of the finger
and pilot bearing. In severe case it can also damage the splines of the input shaft
and clutch hubs well as the clutch splines
Normally the clutch housing misalignment is a result of:

Incorrect seating on the engine/transmission.
Missing alignment dowel holes.
Loose or missing mounting bolt.
Mounting surfaces that are damaged/ not parallel.
To check the clutch housing misalignment bell housing run out will also need to be
checked.

Clutch-6
Clutch slippage
Observation Causes Remedial action

Disc facing worn out. 1. Normal wear. 9 Replace clutch disc
2. Clutch riding. 9 Replace clutch plate
3. Insufficient diaphragm 9 Replace clutch plate
spring clamp load. 9 & cover assembly.
4. Faulty release 9 Replace , and bleed/
mechanism. 9 Customer to be
5. Vehicle being driven informed.
despite slipping clutch. 9 Customer to be
6. Bad driving practice of informed.
allowing the clutch to slip
far too long.
Clutch disc facing Leak at : 9 Replace seal & disc.
Contaminated with oil, 1. Crankshaft rear end 9 Clean cover
grease or clutch fluid. 2. Leak through the assembly.
input shaft 9 Apply less grease.
3. Excess amount of 9 Replace clutch disc.
grease applied to 9 Clean cover
the input shaft splines assembly.
Clutch is running Release bearing carrier 9 Replace bearing /

Partially disengaged. sticky. carrier.
Flywheel height 1. Improperly machined. 9 Replace flywheel.
incorrect 2. Excess machining done.
Wrong disc or pressure Use the correct parts 9 Replace the parts
plate used. after comparison.
Clutch disc/ cover or 1. Improper tightening or 9 Replace the parts
diaphragm spring warped. loosening procedure. and tighten as per
2. Rough handling of sequence.
clutch plate or cover 9 Replace the parts,
assembly 9 ensure that the
roughhandling is
avoided
Flywheel side Flywheel surface 9 Reduce the scoring
clutch facing ,scored and having light and nicks by sand
surface – torn/ nicked/ notch paper. Reduce if
worn scoring deeper.
Clutch disc facing burnt. 1. Frequent operation 9 Roughen the
Excessive glazing of the under high loads or flywheel face with
flywheel & pressure plate. hard acceleration sandpaper.
conditions 9 Replace clutch plate
2. Frequent clutch riding 9 & cover assembly.
by the driver. 9 The driver has to be
alerted to avoid
repeat failure.
Clutch facing Improper storage clutch 9 Replace
broken plate dropped prior fitting.
Fouling marks on the Improper fitment 9 Rectify
torsion damper. assembled
the wrong
way around

Clutch-7
Clutch grab/chatter

Clutch disc facing Leak at :
Contaminated with oil, 1. Crankshaft rear end 9 Replace seal & disc.
grease or clutch fluid. oil seal 9 Clean cover
2. Leak through the assembly.
input shaft 9 Replace seal & disc.
3. Excess amount of 9 Clean cover
grease applied to assembly.
the input shaft splines 9 Apply less grease.
9 Replace clutch disc.
9 Clean cover
assembly.
Disc facing show 1. Incorrect or substandard 9 Replace disc and
unusual wear parts. cover with the correct
2. Improper tightening or parts.
loosening procedure. 9 Replace the parts and
3. Rough handling of tighten as per
clutch plate or cover sequence.
assembly 9 Replace the parts,
ensure that the rough
handling is avoided.
Partial engagements of 1. Clutch pressure 9 Replace clutch cover
clutch disc (One side worn – plate position 9 & clutch plate.
opposite side glazed and setting incorrect or 9 Replace clutch cover
lightly worn.) modified 9 & clutch plate.
2. Clutch cover, spring or 9 Replace clutch plate.
release fingers bent or 9 Check alignment and
distorted due to rough 9 Run out of flywheel
handling or improper disc or cover.
assembly. 9 Replace the clutch
3. Clutch disc damaged or plate & cover
distorted. assembly (if required,
4. Clutch misalignment. Correct the
9 alignment)
No fault found Problem related to 9 Further diagnosis
with clutch suspension or driveline required. Check
components components. engine & transmission
mounting insulators. U
Joint, tyres, body
attaching parts.
Clutch master cylinder or Piston/ bore damaged 9 Overhaul the master
slave cylinder piston or corroded & slave cylinder.
jammed/ scuffing.
Tangential strap 1. Incorrect driving 9 Advise the customer
connecting the practice of the consequences.
pressure plate to 1. Mostly due to tow starting
the diaphragm in 1st or 2nd gear.
cover broken 2.Incorrect gear selection

Clutch-8
Improper clutch release

Clutch disc New disc not checked 9 Check the new disc’s
warped before installation runout & replace it.
Clutch plate is binding on 1. Clutch disc hub splines 9 Replace the clutch
the input shaft’s splines. damaged during plate.
installation. 9 Replace input shaft is
2. Input shaft splines severely damaged.
rough or damaged. 9 Replace the clutch
3. Rust formation on plate. Replace the
splines of disc and input input shaft if the
shaft. scaling can not be
removed.
Clutch disc facing sticks to Vacuum may form in 9 Drill 1/16 inch
flywheel. pockets over rivet head. 9 Dia. Hole through
Occurs as clutch cools rivets and
down after use. 9 scuff sand the clutch
9 disc facing
Clutch will not disengage 1. Low fluid in the clutch 9 Top off the fluid and
properly. master cylinder. 9 Bleed & refill the
2. Air in the hydraulic system.
system 9 Tighten the bolts.
3. Clutch cover loose. 9 Replace disc.
4. Wrong clutch disc. 9 Replace the cover
5. Clutch cover assembly.
diaphragm spring bent 9 Fit the clutch plate
/ warped during correctly the hub
Transmission installation. should be facing the
6. Clutch disc fitted pressure plate side &
backwards. the flywheel side
mark towards the
flywheel.
Bush worn out / Vibration / misalignment 9 Fit new bearings &
damaged Clutch misalignment check for
misalignments.
Hard gear shift

Brake fluid less and or 1. Leaks 9 Replace fluid.
contaminated 2. Reservoir strainer 9 Stop leaks and avoid
missing contamination.
Clutch plate warpage 1. Warpage due to 9 Replace
handling or assembly.
2. Warpage due to
misalignment.

Clutch-9
In Car Repairs
Clutch Bleeding
Clutch master cylinder overhaul
Clutch slave cylinder overhaul.
Bleeding the clutch
Clean the external areas of the clutch slave cylinder.

If the bleeding operation is done without connecting by a tube and in the
open air then the chance of air remaining trapped is high.
Connect bleeding tube, to bleeding screw on slave cylinder.
Ensure that the other end of the tube is fully immersed in the bottle having
clean clutch /brake fluid.
Fill the Reservoir up to the top level with recommended clutch fluid
Operate clutch pedal 3 or 4 times slowly to the full stroke.
Holding the clutch in depressed condition loosen the bleeding screw on slave
cylinder by ½ to ¾ turn and allow all the air escape in to the container bottle.
Repeat the exercise till no air bubbles appears in the bottle.
During this operation ensure fluid level in reservoir.
Tighten the bleed screw properly.
Remove bleeding tube and place the dust cover.
Check the fluid level in container and need be top up to the max level.
In Xylo the fluid reservoir for Brake and Clutch system is common and is mounted on
Brake Master Cylinder. There are separate compartments in reservoir made for TMC
Primary chamber, Secondary chamber and Clutch CMC. Clutch CMC is connected
via hose from reservoir.
The reservoir is designed such a way that if there is a leak in any system through any
one of the compartment, the other two compartment fluid level will not be affected.
Refer illustration shown below -

Clutch-10
Clutch Master Cylinder Overhaul –
1. Pull back the dust cover.

2. Remove circlip.
3. Remove the push rod assembly with retainer washer.
4. Remove the piston assembly by gently tapping the Clutch Master Cylinder
body on a wooden block.
Using a screwdriver, lift the leaf

spring retainer. Remove spring
assembly from plunger.
Take care, while lifting the spring

otherwise the spring and the stem
will fall off.
Compress spring to free valve stem

Clutch-11
from eccentrically positioned hole in
the end face of spring retainer. This
will separate spring retainer from
valve stem.
Remove spring, valve spacer and

spring washer from the valve
stem.
(While assembling hold the
spacer between fingers such that
the valve stems hangs down
vertically. Pull down the stem
downwards as far as possible.
Observe if the valve stem has
moved freely upwards. If
movement is not free replace
valve spacer).
Remove the valve seal from the
valve stem.
The bore and the plunger should be
checked for scoring, scuffing uneven
wear marks, corrosion and excessive
clearance between plunger & body
Check the condition of dust cover
for cut, deterioration if damaged
replace.
The assembly procedure is the
reverse of the dismantling
procedure.
While fitting the plunger lubricate
it with brake fluid.

Clutch-12
Slave cylinder overhaul -
• Remove the Bundy pipe from the inlet.

• Remove the slave cylinder from the mounting bracket.

Clutch-13
• Remove dust cover.
• Remove circlip.
• Remove plunger with gland seal and plunger spring from body by lightly
tapping it on wooden block.
• Remove gland seal from plunger.
• The bore and the plunger should be checked for scoring, scuffing uneven
wear marks, corrosion and excessive clearance between plunger & body.
• Check the condition of dust cover for cut, deterioration if damaged
replace.
• The assembly procedure is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.
• While fitting the plunger lubricate it with brake fluid.
• Make sure that the push rod end is firmly located at the fork.
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling (except the

precautions mentioned).
1 Inspection:
beyond the wear limits, have to be replaced.
• Over & above the wear limits: the following points also need to be ensured -

Clutch-14
Clutch overhaul –
Block the front wheels, so that the

vehicle does not move forward.
Disconnect the negative cable of the
battery.
Remove the clutch slave cylinder

from the gearbox mounting.
Note: Remove the slave cylinder
along with the small Bundy tube.
Disconnect the Bundy tube from the
main tubing.
Remove the Rear (Differential)

End Propeller Shaft bolts – 4 Nos.
Carefully pull the Propeller Shaft out
from the transmission.
Note – After the propeller shaft yoke
is pulled, a bit of oil is expected to
come out as the yoke itself is the
guide for the oil seal.
Disconnect the speed sensor
connection.
Remove the electrical connection for the reverse lamp switch.

Support the engine suitably at rear
end.
Remove the gearshift lever grommet

Clutch-15
Remove the gear shift lever upper
half.
Support the gearbox using a suitable
stand.
Remove the gearbox mounting

insulators.
Remove the clutch housing mounting
screws to the engine rear face & the
ladder frame.
Move the gearbox away from the
engine.
Remove the clutch release bearing
with sleeve.
Remove the clutch fork.
If the original cover will be reinstalled
then mark position of cover on the
flywheel for assembly reference. Use
paint as a marker for this.
If the cover assembly may be reused

then loosen the cover bolts evenly
and in tightening sequence to relive
the spring tension equally.
The bolts should be loosened few
threads at a time – so that the
warping is avoided.
If the cover assembly is not going to
be reused then this precaution is not
essential.
If the pilot bearing has to be
removed
then the flywheel has to be removed
and then the bearing removed using
the MST no 543.
(To install the bearing MST no 544
has to be used.)
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling (except the
precautions mentioned).

Clutch-16
1 Inspection:
beyond the wear limits, have to be replaced. Over & above the wear limits: The
following points also need to be ensured.

Clutch-17
Specifications & Wear Limits
Figure Description Value/ Type
Clutch control type- Hydraulic- self
Disc Thickness ( mm) adjusting
Clutch disc run out 8.8 mm ( free)
Minimum thickness from 0.8 mm Max
outer face to rivet head.
0.4 mm
Pressure plate Diaphragm
Clutch Disc
Outer Dia (mm) 240±1
Inner Dia ( mm) 160± 1
Clutch pedal Suspended Type
Clutch pedal Ratio 7.4
Clutch Pedal travel 167 mm- Max

153 mm.-Min
Clutch pedal free 5 to 6 mm
play ( including push
rod play at pedal
top)
Master Cylinder 19.05 mm

Bore diameter

Clutch-18
Slave Cylinder 23.81 mm
Inner diameter
Standard Service
Flywheel Limit
Flatness ≤ 0.05 0.1
Runout ≤ 0.05 0.1
Flywheel 37±0.13
Width from Mounting
face to clutch face
Clutch release point 25 mm from Bottom

from pedal full position
stroke end position
Pressure plate finger 47.6 ± 1.0 mm

height ( mm)
Diaphragm spring tip 0.8 mm ( finger to

non alignment.( Max) finger)
Diaphragm spring Max depth 0.5 mm

finger wear Max width 5 mm

Clutch-19
Description Torque Nm (lb-ft)
Clutch pedal Fitment 25 + 5 (18 lb-ft)
Fitment of Clutch plate and pressure 25 + 5(18 lb-ft)
plate on flywheel
Clutch slave cylinder fitment on Bell 45 + 5(33 lb-ft)
housing
Clutch hose mounting on clutch slave 24 + 2(17 lb-ft)
cylinder
Clutch tube connection on slave 15 + 2(11 lb-ft)
cylinder
Clutch Pedal mounting 16 + 1.5(11lb-ft)
Clutch housing to engine block 95 + 5(70 lb-ft)
Bracket clutch housing to engine 50 + 5(36 lb-ft)
Slave cylinder to clutch housing 50 + 10(36 lb-ft)
Ball stud to bell housing 35 + 15(25 lb-ft)
Bundy tube connection 15 + 1(11 lb-ft)
Clutch cover to flywheel 25 + 5(18 lb-ft)
Clutch pedal position Switch lock nut 25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
Clutch master cylinder nut 25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
Clutch slave cylinder bolts 50 ± 10 Nm
Flywheel Bolts 90 Nm + 60° ( 66 lb-ft + 60°)
Clutch pedal pivot bolt and nut 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm ( 20 ± 2 lb-ft)

Clutch-20
List of the MST
Description / Part No. /Sketch Usage View
Master clutch plate

assembly- diesel ( aligner)
MST 546
Extractor Flywheel bearing

MST 543
Drift Flywheel bearing

MST 544

Clutch-21
Lubricant
Specification: DOT 3
Hindustan Petroleum: HP Super Duty Brake Fluid
Castrol/ TVS-Girlling Brake Fluid.
Indian Oil: Servo Brake fluid Super HD

Transmisson-1
NGT 530R ‐2 WD
Contents
Description
Care of the transmission
Service Diagnosis
In vehicle adjustment & repair
Dismantling
Cleaning & Inspection
Tightening Torque
Special Tools
Specifications

Transmisson-2
Description –
It is a 5-speed gearbox. The 1st & 2nd 3rd, 4th & 5th are having strut type
synchronization. The reverse gear is sliding mesh. The gear selection is by a direct
shift lever operating a 3-rail system. The accidental operation of two gears is avoided
by an interlocking mechanism. To avoid vibrations passing on to the shift lever; the
shift lever is two-piece with rubber isolation provided on to the top half.
The gearbox housing is 3 piece aluminum with an intermediate plate. A skid plate
protects the bottom of the gearbox. The Gearbox is mounted directly on the flywheel
through the integral clutch housing and supported at rear on the cross member.
Care of the transmission -

The lubricant level should be checked every 10000 KMs. with the vehicle un laden
and on level ground. The lubricant level should be at the lower edge of the filler plug.
Use lubricant meeting oils specification of GL 4 & viscosity 80W90.The brand names
have been specified in the Operators Manual.
Replacement interval: 10000, 50000 then every 40000 Kms
Lubricant: MAXIMILE GO 80W90 Synchro
Service Diagnosis –
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the result of a leak, inadequate
lubricant fill, or an incorrect lubricant level check.
Leaks can occur at the mating surface of the gear case, intermediate plate and
adapter or extension housing or from the front/rear seals. A suspected leak could
also be result of an overfill condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter housing will be from the housing oil
seal. Leaks at component mating surface will probably be the result of inadequate
sealer, gaps in sealer, incorrect bolt tightening, or the use of a non-recommended
sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from either the front bearing retainer or
retainer seal. Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch housing after extended
operation. If the leak is severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc causing slip,
grab and chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can be made only when the vehicle is level, use a two
post or a four post hoist to ensure this. Also allow the lubricant to settle for a minute
or so before checking. These recommendations will ensure that an accurate check
and avoid an under fill or overfill conditions.

Transmisson-3
Hard Shifting
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant level, improper or contaminated
lubricants, component damage, and incorrect clutch adjustment or by a damaged
clutch pressure plate or disc. Substantial lubricant leak can result in gear, shift rail,
synchro and bearing damage. If a leak goes undetected for an extended period the
first indications of a problem are usually hard shifting and noise. Incorrect or
contaminated lubricants can also contribute to hard shifting.
The consequence of using non-recommended lubricants is noise, excessive wear,
internal bind and hard shifting. improper clutch release is one of the most frequent
causes of hard shifting. Incorrect adjustment of a worn damaged pressure plate or
disc can cause incorrect release. If the clutch problem is advanced then it can result
in gear clash during shifts. Incomplete travel of the clutch pedal due to restrictions at
the end of stroke (upturned carpet, extra carpet or cover or bend clutch linkage can
also cause improper clutch release and hard shift.)
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when shifting any forward
gear. In some new or rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to stick
slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most conditions this will decline as the rings
wear in.
Transmission noise
Most manual transmissions make some noise during normal operation. Rotating
gears can generate slight whine that may only be audible at extreme speeds.
Severe audible transmission noise is generally the result of a lubricant problem.

Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant can promote rapid wear of gears,
synchros, shift rail, forks and bearing’s. The overheating caused by a lubricant
problem can also lead to gear breakage.
Summarizing the common faults and their cause:
Problem Possible Causes Correction
Low oil level Worn teeth Top up oil.

Gear Whine gears Replace gears
Worn bearings Replace bearings.
Knocking or ticking Replace gears.

Chipped gear teeth Remove the foreign
Foreign matter inside matter and locate how
transmission. the foreign matter came
Defective bearings. inside e.g. missing
breather and rectify that
also to avoid
recurrence.
Replace the bearings.
Jumping out of gear Defective detent springs. Replace the detent

Worn out grooves in shift springs.
rail. Replace the shift rails.
Shaft misalignment. Replace the gears
Worn dog teeth in gear Replace the fork/ pads
Worn out fork/ fork pads Replace the body

Transmisson-4
Worn out synchronizer
body.
Unable to select gear Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

Worn out selector clutch withdrawal
mechanism mechanism
Rectify the gear
selector mechanism
Hard gear shifting Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

Improper or contaminated clutch withdrawal
lubricants mechanism
Replace the lubricant
Brass Synchro ring worn with the specified
out lubricant.
Replacement of output shaft seal –
Remove the propeller shaft from the

Rear (Differential) end & carefully pull
the propeller shaft out from the
transmission.
Tap the dust cover out with the help

of a mallet.
Remove the oil seal using a blunt
edge screw driver or any other
suitable tool.
Note - Care must be taken not to
damage the housing while removing
the oil seal.
Fit the new oil seal.
Caution - The lip of the oil seal & the
aluminum housing should be
protected against any damage.
Removal of the transmission from Vehicle –
Remove the top lever.
Remove the Rear (Differential) End

Propeller Shaft bolts – 4 Nos.
Carefully pull the Propeller Shaft out

from the transmission.
Note – After the propeller shaft yoke is
pulled, a bit of oil is expected to come
out as the yoke itself is the guide for
the oil seal.
Transmisson-5
Drain the transmission oil.
Loosen & remove the starter motor.
Remove the hydraulic pipe connecting

the Clutch Master
Cylinder to Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Loosen & remove the Clutch Housing
fastening bolts.
Disconnect the speed sensor

connection.
Disconnect the reverse lamp switch

connections.
Loosen the cross member bolts
Remove the transmission.
Note: Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedure / guidelines is the

reverse of the disassembly procedure

Rep
pair Manua
al MAN-00052
Xyllo mEagle
e Jan 2009/R
Rev 1
T on-6
Transmisso
Dis
smantling :
1. Remove
R the lock clip & remove the e grommet.
2. Remove
R biasing cover plate
p bolts & springs. – 4 nos. (Chheck Point A
A)
3. Remove
R Levver retention
n bolts – 3 nos.
n
4. Put
P the selecctor mechanism in neu utral & remoove lever asssembly alo
ong with nylo
on
bu
ush.
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The repa
o
n,

Rep
pair Manua
al MAN-00052
Xyllo mEagle
e Jan 2009/R
Rev 1
T on-7
Transmisso
5. Remove
R the Speedo addaptor.
6. Loosen
L & remove the bolts
b fastening the Fronnt housing – Intermedia
ate plate & the
t
Reaar housing.
7. Remove
R the rear housin
ng by tappin
ng with the help of a mallet.
m
8. Remove
R ont of the 5th driven ge
the circlip in fro ear.
9. Remove
R the bearing inn ner race, sh
him, bevel gear
g on the 5th – Reverse sub sha
aft.
10. Remove 5tth driving ge ear, synchroo brass ring
g & the need
dle bearing..
11. Remove the roller bea

aring on the main shaft using MST
T.
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The repa
o
n,

Rep
pair Manua
al MAN-00052
Xyllo mEagle
e Jan 2009/R
Rev 1
T on-8
Transmisso
12. Remove the 5th driven
n gear using
g MST.
13. Loosen & remove

r the detents, baall & spring from
f the fro
ont housing..
14. Loosen & remove
r the reverse swwitch.
15. Pull out the
e gear train from the fro
ont housing with interm mediate plate.
16. Separate th
he Main drivve gear from
m the main shaft.
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The repa
o
n,

Rep
pair Manua
al MAN-00052
Xyllo mEagle
e Jan 2009/R
Rev 1
T on-9
Transmisso
17. Loosen & remove

r the detent, balll & spring frrom the inte
ermediate pllate.
18. Remove the 5th – reverser raill fork & re
emove the 5th – reve erse rail & fork
assembly, idlerr gear, reveerse sub sha aft & synchrro hub asse embly.
19. Separate th he Counter shaft from the t interme ediate plate..
20. Remove th he 3rd – 4th h shift rail split
s pin & remove
r 3rd
d – 4th shiftt rail & sele
ector
forkk & plunger.
21. Remove 1sst – 2nd shifft rail split pin
p & remov ve the shift rail
r &fork.
22. Loosen & remove
r the nut in front of the reverse driven gear
g & remoove the reve erse
drivven gear from the main shaft.
23. Separate th he intermed diate plate frrom the ma ain shaft.
24. Remove the main shaft pilot (sma all bearing towards
t cluttch housingg side) bearring.
25. Remove the circlip & Belleville
B waasher.
26. Remove the 3rd – 4th synchro hu ub assembly y, synchro brass
b ring & the 3rd ge
ear.
Sep parate the 3rd
3 gear nee edle bearing g.
27. Remove the taper rolle er bearing from
f the oth
her end. Sep parate the 1
1st gear shiim,
1st gear needle e bearing, double
d conee synchro assembly, 2n nd gear & thhe
2nd d gear needle bearing.
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The repa
o
n,

Transmisson-10
Check Points –
A)
Remove the speedometer drive.
Failure to do may result in damage to

bearing/ housing.
B)
Please note the fitment of the balls &
the interlock pins.
It is recommended that while
assembly lightly smears the pin &
balls with grease.
This will avoid the ball or the pin
falling down while assembly.
Springs towards 1st / 2nd gear

position is softer than 5th /
reverse position
.
Cleaning & Inspection –
Clean the transmission parts in solvent.
Dry the housing gear mechanisms & shafts with compressed air.
Do not use the compressed air to clean / dry the bearings. It can cause damage to
raceways and rollers.

Transmisson-11
Tightening Torques –
Description Torque Value

Transmission decking with engine 80 + 10Nm(59 lb-ft)
Tee 3 way assembly to gear carrier 8 + 2Nm(5 lb-ft)
Grommet and retainer plate fitment 4.5 + 0.5Nm(3 lb-ft)
on bell housing
Gear shift lever fitment 33 + 4Nm(24 lb-ft)
Gear shift dust shield fitment on 3 + 0.5Nm(2 lb-ft)
body
Transmission gear shift knob fitment 6.5 + 0.5Nm(4 lb-ft)
to shift lever
Plug - Shift Rail Poppet Spring for 12.5 ± 2.5 Nm (9 ± 2 lb – ft )
1st/2nd & 3rd/4th
For 5th / Rev = 20 – 28 Nm
30 ± 5 Nm (22 ± 4 lb – ft )
Bolt / Nut – Clutch Hsg. To Main Hsg.
Flange Bolt – Front, Intermediate & 35 ± 5 Nm (26 ± 4 lb – ft )

Rear Hsg.
Drain plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ±2 lb – ft )
Filler plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Reverse light switch 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Bolt - Idler Shaft 43 ± 7 Nm ( 32 ± 3 lb – ft )
Bolt - Bearing Retainer Plate 31 ± 4 Nm ( 23 ± 3 lb – ft )
Lever Retention Bolt 24 ± 4 Nm ( 18 ± 3 lb – ft )

Speedometer Sleeve 35 ± 5 Nm (26 ± 5 lb – ft )

Transmisson-12
Special Tools –
Description/ Part No./ Sketch Usage View

Dolly to press outer race of Counter
Shaft Brg. in Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H007
Dolly to press outer race of MD Gear

Brg. in Ft. Hsg.
070 AD2720H008

Transmisson-13
Dolly for pressing oil seal in Rear
Hsg.
0703AD2720H002
Dolly for pressing Outer Race of

Countershaft Bearing
0703AD2720H005
Dolly fir pressing Outer Race of

Output shaft Bearing in
Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H006

Transmisson-14
Specifications –

Type Mechanical
NGT 530 R
Description
Gears 5 Forward and one

reverse gear
Gear shift Direct shift with

rubberized
lever
Gears Helical- toothed
Gear Engagement
Gear Ratio V1 ratio for Xylo

1st 3.778
2nd 2.242
3rd 1.425
4th 1
5th 0.789
Reverse 3.524
SAE 80W90 Synchro,

Oil grade/ quantity API GL4
Oil Capacity: 1.8 liters.
Counter shaft One ball bearing & one

bearing Cylindrical roller.
Input Torque 20 MKg

capacity
Weight 68 Kg

Transmisson-15
Play Limit (mm) Service
Limit
1st (mm)
2nd 0.175 0.375
3rd 0.175 0.375
4th 0.175 0.375
5th 0.175 0.375
0.18 0.3
Fork to groove 0.1to 0.4
clearances/

Rep
pair Manua
al MAN-00052
Xyllo mEagle
e Jan 2009/R
Rev 1
Tra n-16
ansmisson
Sea
alants –
Sr No. Location
n Sealant / Thread Lockks Appliccability
NGT5530 R –2 WDW
1 Ft. Hsg. &

Intermeddiate Loctite 574 √
Plate
2 Intermeddiate Loctite 574 √
Plate & Rear Hsg
3 Clutch Hsg.
H & Frt. Loctite 574 √
Hsg.
4 Output shaft
s Loctite – 24
4185 √
Locknutt Optional – ANR
A 138
Optional – Loctite 26
62
5 Breather Loctite 648 √
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The repa
o
n,

Transmisson-17
6 Pivot & Rear Hsg. Rhodorseal Silicon 940 √

Optional – CAF -33
Pidiseal – 3P
7 Poppet Plug M12 X Loctite 574 √

1.25
8 Speedo Sleeve & Pedilite 171 √

Rear Hsg.
9 Drain Plug Threads Pedilite 171 √
10 Filler Plug Threads Pedilite 171 √

11 Reverse light No Sealant Since plain √

switch Threads washer is being put

Propeller shaft-1
Propeller shaft
Contents
Description
Trouble shooting
In car repairs
Care of the system
Repairs
Specifications & Wear Limits
Tightening Torques

Rep
pair Manuaal MAN-00
0052
Xylo
lo mEagle Jan 2009/R
Rev 1
Pro aft-2
opeller sha
De
escriptio
on
The
e function off the propeller shaft is to transmit power from
m one point to another. The
shaft is designe
ed to transm nsfer case to the axle.
mit torque frrom transmission / tran
Thee propeller shaft hass to opera ate through h constantly changing g length while
w
tran
nsmitting to
orque. The axle rides suspended by spring ng motion. The
g in floatin
proppeller shaft must be able
a to channge the tran nsmission angle
a when n going thro
ough
the various road surfacess. This is doned throug gh Universal joints wh hich permitt the
proppeller shaft top operattes at different angles. The slip jooint or the yyokes allow
w the
contraction or expansion
e o the prope
of eller shaft th
hus allowing
g the length
h to change..
The
e propeller shaft
s is buillt with the yoke
y lugs in
n line with each
e other, which is ca
alled
pha
asing. This design pro oduces the smoothest running co ondition. Ann out of phhase
shaft can cause a vibration.
Tyrees that are out of roun

nd or wheels that are out
o of balan
nce cause a low freque
ency
vibrration.
Brake drums th hat are unba alanced cau use a harsh

h low freque
ency vibratio
on.
Drivveline vibrattions can also result fro
om loose orr damaged engine mou untings.
Propeller shaftt vibrations will keep on increasing as the ve

ehicle speed
d increase. The
prop
peller shaftt does not cause a viibration tha at is presen
nt only in a narrow sp
peed
rang
ge.
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The repa
o
n,

a prohibited without the prior written consent of © 2009 Mahindraa & Mahindra Ltd.
Propeller shaft-3
Trouble shooting –
Tyres that are out of round or wheels that are out of balance cause a low frequency
vibration.
Brake drums that are unbalanced cause a harsh low frequency vibration.
Driveline vibrations can also result from loose or damaged engine mountings.
Propeller shaft vibrations will keep on increasing as the vehicle speed increase. The
propeller shaft does not cause a vibration that is present only in a narrow speed
range.
Drive condition Possible cause Correction

Propeller shaft 1. Undercoating or other Clean exterior of shaft &
foreign on the shaft. wash with solvent.
2. Loose companion Tighten the mounting
flange mounting bolts. bolts.
3. Worn out yoke/slip Replace the joint/yoke.
joint. Check runout- replace
4. Excessive runout. shaft.
5. Incorrect drive line Correct angularity.
angularity. Replace the UJ.
6. Worn UJ bearings. Replace the propeller
7. Propeller shaft shaft.
damaged or bent. Replace the rear springs.
8. Broken rear springs. Reindex the propeller
9. Excessive runout or shaft by 180°, test and
unbalanced condition. correct as required.
10. Excessive pinion shaft Reindex the propeller
runout. shaft by 180°, test and
correct as required
Universal Joint Noise UJ worn out Replace the UJ

Propeller shaft-4
Imbalance
If the propellers shaft unbalance is suspected then it can be verified by the following
procedure.
Removing & rendering the propeller shaft by 180° may eliminate some vibrations.
Clean all the foreign material from

propeller shaft and the universal joint.
Inspect the propeller shaft for missing balance weight, broken welds and bent areas.
If the propeller shaft is bent then it must be replaced.
Ensure that the propeller shaft is not worn, are properly installed and are correctly
aligned with the propeller shaft
Check the companion flange mounting bolts.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the wheel & tyres.
Install the wheel nuts to lock the brake drum.

Mark & number the shaft 6 inches from
pinion end at four positions 90° apart.
Run and accelerate the engine until vibration occurs. Note the intensity & the speed
at which the vibration occurs.
Install a screw clamp at position “1”

Propeller shaft-5
Install a screw clamp at position “1”
Start the engine and recheck for vibrations. If there is little or no change in vibrations
then move the clamp or of the other 3 positions.
If there is no difference in vibration at the other position then the vibration is

not due to the propeller shaft imbalance.
If the vibration decreases, install a

second clamp and repeat the test.

Rep
pair Manuaal MAN-00
0052
Xylo
Rev 1
Pro aft-6
opeller sha
If the
e clamps ca ause an addditional
imba alance, sep parate the cllamp (¼ inc
ch
abov ve & below the mark.). Repeat the e
vibraation test.
Incre
ease the disstance betwween the
clam
mps until the
e vibration iss at the low
west
leve
el.
At this po
osition bend
d the slack end
e of the clamp
c so tha
at it does no
ot loosen.
all the wheel & tyres. Lo

Insta ower the ve
ehicle.
If th
he amount of the vibrration remaains unacc
ceptable the
en repeat tthe exercis
se at
the
e Gearbox end.
e
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The repa
o
n,

Propeller shaft-7
Runout
Remove dirt, rust, paint & undercoating

from the propeller shaft surface.
The dial indicator must be installed

perpendicular to the shaft surface.
Measure the runout at the centre and at

the ends – away from the weld.
Replace the propeller shaft if the runout is beyond the specified limit.

Rep
pair Manuaal MAN-00
0052
Xylo
Rev 1
Pro aft-8
opeller sha
Re
epairs
Raise the vehicle

v
Put aligning
a marrks on the flange, UJ and
prope
eller shaft before
b removal.
ot use a punch to markk impression.

Do no
Remo
ove the mou
unting boltss at the pinio
on end
Remo
ove the mou
unting boltss at the gearbox end.
ant to protecct the machined, extern

IIt is importa nal surface of the yoke
e from dama
age after
propeller sha aft removal. Any damag ge in the machined surface will lead to dama
age of the
se
eal and cause a leak.
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The repa
o
n,

Propeller shaft-9
Remove the circlip holding the UJ in place.
Applying the socket wrench on the outside of the

propeller shaft flange, force out one end of UJ
using a vice as shown. (One end 32 mm socket
to receive other end 21-mm socket to push.)
While assembling- insert both ends then hold & press fit them with special tool.

Propeller shaft-10
Installation and Fitting
1. Ensure that the End yokes and Flange yoke faces are clean and free
from dirt, grease and paint. The Flange spigot should be undamaged.
2. Bolt of the correct size should be inserted from the rear of the Flange
Yoke and locknuts used. Alternatively, a spring washer can be used with
a conventional Nut.
3. Bolts of the correct size should be tightened evenly all round until
securely locked.
Service & Maintenance
1. Due to manufacturing tolerances and balance, the original running of the

shaft will only be assured if dismantled parts are re-assembled in the same
position and plane as prior to dismantling.
2. Maintenance should be carried out at regular intervals, the actual frequency
of which will depend upon service conditions and application. It is therefore
advisable to co-ordinate maintenance work with other units in the particular
installation in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer’s instructions.
3. Flange securing bolts should be checked for tightness and retightened with a
torque wrench, recommended tightening torque 5.5 to 6.6 Kg.m. In the rare
event of wear having taken place in the yoke cross-holes the holes will most
certainly be oval, and the yokes must therefore be replace.
4. Centre bearing should be checked to ensure that the fixing bolts are locked
with torque wrench, recommended tightening torque 12.3 to 13.7 Kg.m.

Propeller shaft-11
UJ Kit: Dismantling
1. Rest the shafts on ‘V’ blocks and clean away any paint or dirt from the circlip
and bearing race end faces.
2. Circlip fixing – using pliers remove all the circlip from the joint, commencing
with the flange yoke by pinching the ears together. A tight clip may be eased
by lightly taping the bearing race and face to relieve any pressure exerted on
the clip.
3. Retain the shaft firmly and with the bearing to be removed on top, tap the
yoke with a soft hammer. The bearing will begin to emerge until finally the
shafts can be turned over and the bearing race removed.
4. This operation is repeated for the opposite bearing. The unretained flange
yoke can now be removed from the joint.
5. Repeat this procedure on the two remaining bearings.
UJ Kit: Re-assembly
1. Insert the new journal in the Flange yoke cross-holes and using a soft-nosed
drift slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing race, tap the
bearing in to position. Care should be taken to avoid accidental spillage of
the needle rollers, thrust washers, from the bearing cap.
2. Turn the yoke 180 deg and repeat the process.
3. Repeat this procedure for the two remaining bearings.
4. Fit the new circlip into the grooves as each bearing race is driven into
position.
5. If a high force is required to articulate the joint tap the yokes lightly with a soft
mallet, which will relieve any pressure of the bearings on the end of the
journal.

Propeller shaft-12
Centre Bearing: Dismantling
1. Mark the End yoke to ensure re-assembly in the same position.

2. Support the shaft on ‘V’ Block.

Propeller shaft-13
3. Unlock the Lock Nut & Steel Washer and remove the End yoke.
4. Remove the centre bearing assembly by striking with a soft hammer.
5. Place the Mid ship shaft on flat portion and tap it, so that Centre bearing
come out from midship shaft.

Propeller shaft-14
Centre Bearing: Re-Assembly
1. Slip the new centre bearing assembly onto the shaft.
2. If the centre bearing cannot be pushed into place, use a tube which fits over
the spline and contacts the bearing inner race to press or drive the bearing
into place.
3. Replace the End yoke in the correct position.

4. Tight the locknut with washer with torque range of 11~13 Kg.m.
5. When the shaft is being fitted on to the vehicle, first keep the centre bearing
loose, tighten at the axle end, after that tighten the centre bearing mounting
bolts.

Propeller shaft-15
Specification & Wear Limits –
Description 2WD
Length (Joint to Joint) x O.D x 1580.0 X 75.0 X 1.60

thickness in mm
Fully Expanded length 1630.8
Runout 0.4 mm MAX TIR at centre & 75
mm away from the yoke weld
Tightening Torque –
Location Torque Nm (lb-ft)
Axle end/ transmission end 52.5 + 7.5Nm(38 lb-ft)

Split propeller shaft bearing fitment 88.5 + 16.5Nm(65 lb-ft)

Front Suspension-1
Front Suspension

Front Suspension-2
Contents…
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
Working principle, Dismantling, Assembly of the Front Suspension 2WD
In Car repairs
Specification & Wear Data
Lubricants
Tightening Torques
List of the MSTs

Front Suspension-3
Description -
The front suspension is independent. The front suspension in the 2WD

vehicle is wishbone type with helical spring and telescopically acting hydraulic
dampener.
The front also employs anti roll bar with ball joints on the connecting links as
shown in the sketch to transfer the loads to the outer wheel during turns.
Trouble Shooting
A squeak noise from the shock absorber can be produced if movement

between the rubber bushing and metal occurs. Tightening the attaching parts
can usually stop this noise. If the squeak noise persists then inspect for worn
or damaged bushings and attaching components.
Repair as necessary if any thing found amiss. Squeak also happen due to
relative movement from suspension arm’s bush inner sleeve (serration end)
and chassis bracket. This situation happens, if torque is not as per specs.
Torque tightening the LCA & UCA bolts normally resolves the issue. The
shock absorber bushings do not require any kind of lubrication. Do not
lubricate the bushings to reduce bushing noise. Grease or mineral oil base
lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjustable. If a malfunction occurs,

the shock absorber must be replaced. To test a shock absorber hold it upright
in fully extended position for 10 minutes. Then force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout each stroke should be
smooth and even.

One Edge Wear Excessive camber 9 Check and
adjust:
9 Camber to be
checked and
adjusted.
9 Check for the
wheel turning
angle.
Feathered Edge Incorrect Toe In 9 Check & correct

Wear Toe In
9 Check the
chassis bend
9 If tyre rotation
not carried out
as per schedule.
Do the tyre
Front Suspension-4
rotation.
9 If the wheel
alignment values
are OK and only
one tyre is
having the
complaint then
look at the upper
control arm
bushes.
Excessive Vehicle 1. Body Mounts loose. 9 Tighten the body
rolling 2. Suspension mounting mounts.
loose. 9 Tighten the
3. Broken or deteriorated suspension
stabilizer mounts.
4. Worn stabilizer bush 9 If broken
5. Malfunctioning stabilizer
shock absorber bar- replace
6. Stabiliser link bolt 9 Replace the
loose bushes &
tighten to the
specified torque,
9 Replace the
shock absorber.
9 Tighten the link
bolts
Vehicle inclined Broken or Replace the coil
deteriorated coil spring
spring
Noise 1. Parts worn or Tighten the parts
loose or replace
2. Broken coil spring Replace the coil
3. Malfunctioning spring
shock absorber Replace the
shock
absorber
Do not lubricate the suspension bushes/joints. For fitting & removing

bush use soap solution only.

Front Suspension-5
Care of the system
Wheel alignment to be done only at every 40,000 Km or if the tyre is

showing abnormal tyre wear or if the front suspension camber bolt has
loosened
Inspect the bolts for loosening ( visual) if loosened, tighten and bring to
the original marking
Working principle, Dismantling & Assembly of the Front Suspension

2WD
The front Wheel suspension in the 2 WD vehicles is wishbone type with

helical spring and telescopically acting hydraulic dampener. Both the lower
and upper arm employ two point mounting.
An anti roll bar is used to transfer the loads to the outer wheel during turns.
The telescopic shock absorbers are used to dampen the wheel oscillations
and ensure proper wheel contact irrespective of the road condition.
Points to be ensured while fitting any new bushes in the suspension
The bolts should be fully tightened only when the wheels are in ground. When
the bolts are tightened with any particular wheel jacked up then it causes
preloading of the rubber bush in the normal operating zone and thus reducing
its life.

Front Suspension-6
In Car repairs
Wheel alignment, Specifications and detail procedure.
Front and Rear ride height – Check
Upper Control Arm and Bush – R&R
Lower Control Arm and Bush – R&R
Stabilizer bar and Bush – R&R
Coil Spring and Shock Absorber – R&R
Suspension bush – Check
Front hub assembly R&R

Front Suspension-7
Specification for wheel alignment–
Toe-in partial 0 to 1 mm ( 0 to 13’)
Toe-in Total 0 to 2 mm( 0 to 26’)
Camber - 30' to + 10'
Difference between LH & RH camber 30’
Caster 1°75' to 3°75'
King pin angle 10.5° to 12.5°
Steering angle- Inner 35˚ to 38˚
Steering angle- Outer 34˚ to 36˚
Ride height (215 tyre)
Ground to frt camber bolt head centre RH & LH 269 ± 10 mm
Ground to rear lower link bolt head centre RH & LH 298 ± 10 mm
Ground to frt camber bolt head centre RH & LH 239 ± 10 mm

Tyre Pressure requirements
Tyre pressure for 205 type while wheel alignment 2.3 Bar
Tyre pressure for 215 type while wheel alignment 2.4 Bar

Front Suspension-8
Decision tree for wheel alignement :
Do the wheel
Has the vehicle Yes alignment as per
covered 40,000 Km, the process
No
Yes
Any abnormal
tyre wear?
No
Does the vehicle

pull to one side
Yes
even with correct
tyre pressures?
No
Yes
Check the front
Front ride height loss suspension
more than 10 mm? bushes and shock
absorbers bushes
No
Yes Torque tighten the

Front bolts and align the
suspension bolts original marks.
loosened?
No
Wheel alignment not required

Front Suspension-9
Camber Bolt initial setting for wheel alignment
Note:- 1. With front camber bolt easy to adjust camber value

2. With rear camber bolt easy to adjust caster value
Note:- 1. With front camber bolt easy to adjust camber value.

2. With rear camber bolt easy to adjust castor value.
CAMBER ADJUST
CASTOR ADJUST
CASTOR ADJUST
CAMBER ADJUST

Repair Manua
al MAN-00052
Xyllo mEagle
e Jan 2009/R
Rev 1
n-10
Front Suspension
Wh
heel alignm
ment process -
Pre
e Work Pro
ocess
Tyre
e pressuree : Should be
b 2.4 bar in n all the tyre
es.
Obsserve : The
e intial positon of the ca
amber/ casttor bolts.
Seq
quence :
• Do the runout co
ompensaation
R
Runout
• Do the ccamber setting byy adjustin
ng the fro
ont
C
Camber bolts ( reefer sketcch above
e)
• Adjust th
he rear b
bolts . ( re
efer abovve sketch
h)
C
Castor
Indivvudal Toe
• Set usingg the tracck rod en
nds.
In
• Check th
he each w
wheel turrning anggle.
Turn
ning angle
Torrque : All the

t cambe er /castor bolts hav
ve to be torque tighttened to 200
M. This is a critical activity
NM
Shoock Absorb ber Projecttion Heightt – 26.0 ± 1..0 mm.

Reffer below skketch and phhoto to adju
ust Shock Absorber
A Pro
ojection He
eight. Use MST
M
No.0401BAA00 005ST & refer SOP.
All cop
The repa
o
n,

Front Suspension-11
Ride height - Is the verticle distance between front camber bolt nut side end
center to the ground plane.
The ride height should be 269 ± 10 mm.
If ride height is not within limits then please check for the coil spring damage
or any issue is the rubber or mounting bolt area or shock absorber bushes.
Also confirm if the shock absorber projection is as per the specification. Last
parameter to be checked should be the rubber bushes of the LCA and UCA.
Hint for doing the wheel alignement:
9 Vehicle should be unladen and parked on level surface

9 Ensure that the wheel hub play is correct.
9 Check that the chassis and the under body are not coated with mud. If in
doubt get the vehicle cleaned before doing the checking.
9 Check the ride height variation as per the specification.
9 Replace the parts of suspension if found badly damaged
9 Before starting the measurement, ensure that the parking brakes are
applied and the rear wheels are blocked
9 Before doing the wheel alignment – ensure that the linkages i.e. the ball
joint are not worn or loose. Check the free play in the steering.
9 All the tyres and the wheel disc should be of the same type.
9 The wheel turning angle check at the last will ensure that the vehicle
pulling after doing the wheel alignement is avoided.
Front Suspension-12
Do’s –
1. Front shock absorber top stud length after assembly should be 26mm,
measured from the top of the nut.
2. Only flanged hardware should be used. Use of spring washer and plain
washer to be prevented (except for pan hard rod).
3. Both front & Rear Suspension should be tightened in unladen condition
and not in rebound.
4. All bushings should be free from oil. If oil is found on any bushings then
it needs to be replaced.
5. While fitment of bottom bolt front shock absorber, head side should be
at rear end to avoid fouling of the bolt with brake housing caliper in full
turn condition.
6. All silent block with voided bushes should be mounted as per the
specified orientation.
Don’ts –
1. Torque values should not be less than specified in any case.

2. Locktite should not be applied on thread for torque loss concern. (This
will damage the threads)

Front Suspension-13
UPPER CONTROL ARM & BUSH – R & R
– Nm.
UCA mtg. bolt on frame. 90 ± 10 Nm.
UCA ball joint nut 140 ± 20 Nm.
• For removing the upper and lower arm bushes use the Special tool MST
564 & 565
Removal Steps –
1. Remove Wheel assembly.
2. Remove Stg. joint on knuckle
3. Remove UCA ball joint nut &
disconnect it from knuckle.
4. Remove UCA mtg. bolts on
frame.
5. UCA bushes to be removed
with help of press machine.
1. Refit & Check UCA
bushes & UBJ boot for
proper fitment.
2. Refit UCA mtg. bolts on
frame, do not tight fully.
3. Refit UCA ball joint on
knuckle.
4. Refit Stg. ball joint on
knuckle.

Front Suspension-14
Refer below illustrations for correct fitment of voided bush on Upper Arm.
VOIDED BUSH - CORRECT POSITION ON UPPER ARM
Wrong fitment
of voided bush
• During refitting use the dolly.

• In the UCA while pressing the bush in the arm it has to ensure that
the solid rubber portion of bush should match parallel to the arm.
• Use of any lubricant will result in degradation of the rubber
bush and lower life. Pressing without soap solution will
damage the bush.

Front Suspension-15
LOWER CONTROL ARM & BUSH – R & R
– Nm.
• LCA mtg. bolt on frame. 200 ± 20 Nm.
• LCA ball joints to LCA 45 ±5 Nm.
• LCA ball joint nut 140 ± 20 Nm.

1. Remove Wheel assembly. 1. Check LCA bushes & UBJ
2. Remove Stg. joint on knuckle boot for proper fitment.
3. Remove LCA ball joint nut & 2. The washers need to be
disconnect it from knuckle. crimped using the special
4. Remove LCA mtg. bolts on tool
frame. 3. Refit LCA mtg. bolts on
5. LCA bushes to be removed frame, do not tight fully.
with help of press machine. 4. Refit LCA ball joint on
knuckle.
5. Refit Stg. ball joint on
knuckle.
6. Refit wheel assembly.
7. Do Wheel alignment.

Front Suspension-16
Refer illustrations below for correct fitment of voided bush on LCA.
VOIDED BUSH - CORRECT The washer has to be crimped to

POSITION ON LOWER ARM ensure bush performance

• LCA is fitted with voided bush on its rear end.
• In the LCA while pressing the bush in the arm it has to ensure that
the solid rubber portion of bush should match parallel to the arm.
• Use of any lubricant will result in degradation of the rubber
bush and lower life. Pressing without soap solution will
damage the bush.

Front Suspension-17
STABILIZER BAR & BUSH – R &R
– Nm.
• Stab bar mtg. bolt on frame. 40 ± 10 Nm.
• Link mtg. bolts on knuckle & 40 ± 10 Nm.
Stab bar
Removal Steps –
1. Remove Wheel assembly.
2. Remove Stabilizer bar link
connected on Stab bar LH
& RH side.
3. Remove Stabilizer bar
mtg. bolts on frame.
1. Check Stab bar bush condition & replace if
required.
2. Refit Stab bar on frame.
3. Refit Link on Stab bar LH & RH side.

Front Suspension-18
COIL SPRING & SHOCK ABSORBER – R & R
Nm.
Shock absorber upper mtg. bolt on 40 ± 5 Nm.
chassis.
Shock absorber mtg. bolt on LCA 120 ± 10 Nm.
Removal Steps –
1. Remove wheel assembly.
2. Remove UCA from knuckle
assy.
3. Remove Shock ab. assy. upper
mtg. nuts.
4. Remove Shock ab. assy.
Bottom mtg. bolt.
5. Use MST to separate Coil from
Shock absorber.
1. Assemble spring & shock
absorber, set the height of
Shock absorber upper mtg. nut
and spring mtg. plate. (Refer
below sketch)
2. Refit Shock ab. bottom & upper
mtg. bolts and nuts.
3. Refit UCA on knuckle assy.
4. Refit wheel assembly. Shock Absorber upper Bushes

Front Suspension-19
Refer following illustration and adjust Shock absorber projection height –

• Use of any lubricant will result in degradation of the rubber bush
and lower life. Pressing without soap solution will damage the
bush.

Front Suspension-20
SUSPENSION BUSHES - CHECK
1. Check lower control arm bush condition (both LH & RH) for wear & tear,
cracks & separation. Replace if necessary.
2. Check upper control arm bush condition (both LH & RH) for wear & tear,
cracks & separation. Replace if necessary.
3. Check the ball joint boots for damage, cracks. Replace if necessary.
4. Check Shock Absorber Bushes, dust boot & Stabiliser Bar Links and
Bushings for wear & tear, cracks and shift. Replace if necessary.
1
Observe following conditions even after wheel alignment –

(a) Problem in vehicle ride and handling.
(b) Noise from suspension joints even after specified joint torque values.

Front Suspension-21
FRONT WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY - R & R
– Nm.
• Wheel nut 94 Nm.
• Hub nut 400 Nm.
Removal Steps –
1. Jack up the vehicle & remove the wheel.
2. Remove the calliper assembly without
disconnecting the brake hose.
3. Remove Disc assy after removing grub
screw.
4. Remove the hub cover using a
screwdriver.
5. Remove the locknut, take out the
washer.
6. Pull out the hub along with the bearings.
• The Hub is with unitized bearing and if required, complete Hub

assembly is to be replaced.
• The bearing is pre-adjusted, greased and Sealed for life.
• It is maintenance free and no adjustment required for unitized bearing.
• While refitting ensure the torque is applied.
• Ensure that the lock washer is crimped.
• Ensure that the brake hoses are not stretched/ damaged. Put the calliper
without straining the brake hose.
Caution: Please ensure that the hub assembly being replaced is with the
circlip.

Front Suspension-22
Specifications –
Description Specification
Type Independent, double wish bone

with telescopic shock absorbers
Front Shock absorbers- 2WD Shock Absorber Standout – 26
mm
Coil Spring .
Coil spring Load Identification 1 yellow Dot

2 yellow Dots
Camber
-30’ to +10’
Difference between LH & RH ±0.5° (±30’)

Front Suspension-23
Camber
Castor
Difference between LH & RH ±0.75 ° ( ± 45’)
castor
Toe in 0 to 1 mm ( 0 to 13’)
Total Toe in 0 to 2 mm ( 0 to 26’)
Shock absorber stand out 26 mm

King pin Inclination 10.5° to 12.5°
Wheel Turning Angle- Inner 35° to 38°
Wheel Turning Angle- outer 34° to 36°
Ride height Variation Between 10 mm
LH & RH. (Up to LCA front
pivot bolt)

Front Suspension-24
Lubricants –
No lubricants / grease to be used in the suspension bushes. Only soap

solution to be used during assembly
Tightening Torques –
Location Torque Nm ( lbf-ft)
UCA mtg. bolt on frame. 90 ± 10 Nm

LCA mtg. bolt on frame. 200 ± 20 Nm.
LCA ball joints to LCA 45 ±5 Nm.
LCA ball joint nut 140 ± 20 Nm
Stab bar mtg. bolt on frame. 40 ± 10 Nm
Link mtg. bolts on knuckle & Stab bar 40 ± 10 Nm
Shock absorber upper mtg. bolt on 40 ± 5 Nm
chassis.
Shock absorber mtg. bolt on LCA 120 ± 10 Nm.
Wheel Nut 94 Nm
Hub lock nut 400 Nm

Front Suspension-25
List of the MST’s –
Sr.N Suspension Description

o. Tools
1 0402BAA0002ST PAN HARD ROD TOOL KIT – XYLO
2 0402BAA0003ST UPPER LINK SUSPENSION TOOL KIT – XYLO
3 0402BAA0001ST LOWER LINK SUSPESION TOOL KIT – XYLO
4 0401BAA0003ST LOWER ARM TOOL KIT – XYLO
5 0401BAA0004ST UPPER ARM TOOL KIT – XYLO
6 0401BAA0005ST SUSPENSION TOOL FIXTURE - XYLO
7 0401BAA0006ST ASSEMBLY SUSPENSION SPECIAL TOOL KIT -

XYLO

Rear Suspension-1
Rear Suspension

Rear Suspension-2
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
In Car Replacement
Specifications
Tightening Torques
List of MSTs

Rear Suspension-3
Description
The rear suspension is with coil spring and five links. This type of rear
suspension provides more comfort & better handling characteristics of the
vehicle.
The suspension encompasses Upper Links, lower links, Panhard Rod. Coil
springs & Shock Absorbers. Please note that there is no stab bar at rear.
The upper links are tubular with rubber bushes press fitted on both ends. The
lower links are taking the loads due to acceleration & braking. The upper links
mainly are used to guide and to some extent share the lateral loads. One end
of the links is connected to the chassis while the other end is at axle.
The Panhard rod is connected between the axle & the chassis .It takes all the
transverse loads experienced during cornering controlling the axle movement
in lateral direction.
The coil springs absorb the road shocks due to terrain & different load
conditions. The shock absorbers dampen the oscillations of the vehicle. The
rubber bumper fitted on the chassis reduces the impact loads into the body.
The bonded rubber silent blocks / bushings are press fitted & does not require
lubrication with oil. (Also should never be lubricated). While jacking up the
vehicle the jack should always be put below the axle only. Under any
circumstances the vehicle should not be jacked up putting the jack below any
of the link including Panhard rod.
While lifting the vehicle, if the resting pads are pressing against any of the
lower links, then there is a strong possibility that the lower links will get bent.

Rear Suspension-4
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION

Vehicle tending to be Permanent distortion or 9 Replace.
lower on one side & breakage of coil spring
poor ride.
Poor ride Unsmooth operation of 9 Replace.
(excessive pitching or shock absorber 9 Replace with proper
roll) Installation of wrong parts.
shock absorber
Installation of wrong coil 9 Replace with proper
Spring parts.
Suspension mounting 9 Tighten
bolt loose.
Bouncy ride Breakage of coil spring 9 Replace.

Over inflation pressure 9 Adjust.
of tyre
Unsuitable installation 9 Adjust or replace the
(maximum and/or coil springs with new
minimum length) of ones.
shock absorber
Deformation or damage 9 Replace with proper
of bushing parts.
Oil leakage of shock
Absorber 9 Replace
Improper fitment of 9 Fit the bush
voided bushes correctly.
Bouncy ride/ pitching/ Fault in operation of 9 Replace.
roll. shock absorber
Damage or deformation 9 Replace.
of shock absorber
mount 9 Replace.
Deformation or damage
of shock absorber. 9 Retighten.
Link bushes failure 9 Replace.
Improper fitment of 9 Fit the bush
voided bushes correctly.
Noise Wear or damage of 9 Replace
shock
absorber component
parts 9 Retighten to the
Loosening of specified torque.
suspension 9 Replace.
link installing bolt
Deformation or loss of 9 Replace with proper
bushing parts.
Unsuitability of
Rear Suspension-5
maximum and/or 9 Replace
minimum length of
shock
absorber
Breakage of coil spring 9 Replace
Wear or damage of ball
joint.
Link nut loose 9 Retighten to the
specified
9 torque

Rear Suspension-6
In Car Repairs –
Upper Link and Bushes – R&R
Lower Link and Bushes – R&R
Pan hard rod and Bushes – R&R
Shock Absorber – R&R
Rear Suspension Link Bush – Check
Ride height – Check

Rear Suspension-7
Upper Link Bush – R & R

Nm.
Upper Link mtg. bolt 150 ±10 Nm.
Removal Steps –
Remove Wheel assembly.

Remove the axle end mounting
bolt
Remove the chassis end
mounting bolt.
Remove the upper link
The bushes to be removed
using the special tool.
Assembly Steps –
Fit the bushes.
Ensure that the voids direction is
as shown in the sketch
Fit the chassis end
Fit the axle end.
Ensure that the wheel is resting
on the ground before tightening
and applying torque.

Rear Suspension-8
Refer illustration for correct fitment of voided bushes -
VOIDED BUSH – CORRECT POSITION ON UPPER LINK
Wrong fitment of
voided bush
• Upper Links are fitted with voided bushes on both sides.

• Inspect Suspension bush condition at every 40,000 kms.
• Replace Suspension bushes if found damage or deteriorate.
• While tightening the link & torquing ensure that wheels are resting on the
ground/ 4 post lift. If it is not done, the ride quality will get adversely affected.
• Ensure that while fitting the voided bush on Upper link both ends, the Bush
solid rubber portion should be parallel to the Arm.
• Never use any mineral based oil / grease for the lubrication of any of the
suspension bush including the link bushes. While assembling ensures that
the bushes are liberally lubricated with Soap Water.
• Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedures/ guidelines are the
reverse of the disassembly procedure.

Rear Suspension-9
Lower Link, bush & coil spring– R & R
Nm.
Lower link mtg. bolt. 150 ± 10 Nm.
Removal Steps –
Remove Wheel assembly.
Remove the axle end mounting
bolt
Remove the chassis end
mounting bolt.
Remove the lower link
The bushes to be removed
using the special tool
Fit the bushes.

Fit the chassis end
Fit the axle end.
Ensure that the wheel is resting
on the ground before tightening
and applying torque.
( the size of the bush at the
chassis end and axle ends are
different)

Rear Suspension-10
• While pressing the bushes, ensure that the knurling on the inner
sleeve’s outer surface does not get damaged.
• Tightening has to be done only on four posts with the wheels touching
the Board.
• Failure to do so can cause poor ride, floor vibrations, wheel wobbling.
• Never use any mineral based oil / grease for the lubrication of any of
the suspension bush including the link bushes / shock absorber
bushes.
• While assembling ensures that the bushes are liberally lubricated with
Soap Water.

Rear Suspension-11
Panhard rod – R & R
Nut/ Bolt description Torque
Value – Nm.
Pan hard rod mtg. bolt 150 ± 10 Nm.
Removal & Assembly Steps –
Panhard rod can be removed

independently.
Check bushes for wear, crack &
shift before refitting.
Check Panhard rod for bend,
crack if any.
Refit Pan hard rod assy.

Rear Suspension-12
SHOCK ABSORBER & BUSH – R & R
– Nm.
Shock absorber mtg. bolt 45 ± 5 Nm.
Removal & Assembly Steps –
• Shock Absorber can be removed independently.

• Check bushes for wear, crack & shift before refitting.
• Check Shock Absorber for leak, eyehole crack if any.
• Refit Shock Absorber assembly.

Rear Suspension-13
REAR SUSPENSION LINKS & BUSHES – CHECKs
2
1
2
1
2
2
1
1
Refer illustration shown above -
1. Check all the suspension link Rubber Bushes for –

• Wear
• Ageing
• Cracks
• Metal sleeve separation.
2. Check the Upper & Lower Links & Panhard Rod for damage/ bent etc.
3. Check shock absorber bushes for wear, crack and shift.
• Tightening has to be done only on four posts with the wheels touching
the Board. Failure to do so can cause poor ride, floor vibrations, wheel
wobbling.
• Never use any mineral based oil / grease for the lubrication of any of
the suspension bush including the link bushes / shock absorber
bushes.
Rear Suspension-14
• While assembling ensures that the bushes are liberally lubricated with
Soap Water.
• Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedures / guidelines are
the reverse of the disassembly procedure.
Ride height – Check
Ride height - Is the verticle distance between Lower link front end bolt nut
side end center to the ground plane.
Do’s –
Only flanged hardware should be used. Use of spring washer and plain
washer to be prevented (except for pan hard rod).
Both front & Rear Suspension should be tightened in unladen condition and
not in rebound.
All bushings should be free from oil. If oil is found on any bushings then it
needs to be replaced.
All silent block with voided bushes should be mounted as per the specified
orientation.
Don’ts –
1. Torque values should not be less than specified in any case.

Locktite should not be applied on thread for torque loss concern. (This will
damage the threads)

Rear Suspension-15
Specification
Tightening Torque

Upper Link mtg. bolt 150 ± 10 Nm.
Pan hard rod mtg. bolt 150 ±10 Nm.
Shock absorber mtg. bolt 45 ±5 Nm.
List of MST –
Sr. Suspension Description

No. Tools
1 0402BAA0002ST PAN HARD ROD TOOL KIT – XYLO
2 0402BAA0003ST UPPER LINK SUSPENSION TOOL KIT – XYLO
3 0402BAA0001ST LOWER LINK SUSPESION TOOL KIT – XYLO
4 0401BAA0003ST LOWER ARM TOOL KIT – XYLO
5 0401BAA0004ST UPPER ARM TOOL KIT – XYLO
6 0401BAA0005ST SUSPENSION TOOL FIXTURE - XYLO
7 0401BAA0006ST ASSEMBLY SUSPENSION SPECIAL TOOL KIT
- XYLO

Brakes-1
BRAKES
Contents….
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Working principle, Dismantling & Assembly of Front Disc Brakes
Working principle, Dismantling & Assembly of Rear Drum Brakes
Working principle, Dismantling &Assembly of the Master cylinder
Working principle of the Brake booster
Working principle LSPV Valve removal and setting
Parking Brake Description, Setting
Fluid level and Leak Check
Brake bleeding
Recommended Lubricants

Brakes-2
Description
The brake system is vacuum assisted ‘H’ split type. The front brakes are single pot
callipers with ventilated rotor (with angular vanes, hence the LHS and RHS are
different). The rear brakes are drum type with self-adjusting mechanism. The parking
brakes are actuated in the rear through cable. Both the front disc pads and the rear
brake liners are non asbestos.
The braking system includes a Load sensing Proportioning Valve. It controls the
brake fluid pressure going to the rear depending on the load on the vehicle. Normally
when the vehicle is loaded and brakes applied; due to the weight transfer the load on
the rear wheels become very less. In vehicles without the LSPV; the full pressure of
brake fluid going to the rear wheels tends to lock them. In vehicles fitted with LSPV,
the LSPV reduces the brake fluid going to the rear circuit depending on the load
hence avoids the rear wheel locking. Since the rear wheel locking is avoided it results
in reducing the braking distance (distance covered before the vehicle comes to a
stand still)
The brake circuit is having an inbuilt bypass valve in the LSPV. In an unlikely
situation of the front brake circuit failure; the LSPV valve is bypassed and the full
pressure of brake fluid goes to the rear. This ensures that braking is achieved. The
complete details about the LSPV valve & its functioning and setting are mentioned
later.
Trouble Shooting
Preliminary checks involve inspecting fluid level, parking brake action, and wheel and
tyre conditions, checking for obvious or external leaks or component damage and
pedal response. A road test will confirm or deny the existence of the problem.
While road testing if the complaint involved low brake pedal, make several low speed
stops and note if pedal comes back to normal height. Check the pedal response with
gear in neutral and engine running. The pedal should remain firm under steady
pressure. During road test make normal and firm brake stops in speeds of 40 to 60
Km/h. Note faulty brake operation such as pull, grab, drag, noise, low pedal, hard
pedal, fade, pedal pulsation, etc.

Brakes-3
Diagnosis –
Pedal falls away / Pedal sinking

A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot pressure is generally the result of
system leak. The leak point could be at a brake line, fitting hose, wheel cylinder or
Master Cylinder Internal leakage’s caused by worn or damaged piston, seals may
also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe fluid will be evident at or around the leaking component.
Low pedal
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal several times. If the pedal comes back
up, worn lining and worn rotors or drums are the most likely cause. However, if the
pedal remains low and / or the warning light illuminates then the problem is in the
master cylinder, wheel cylinder, or callipers.
A decrease in master cylinder fluid may only be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid
level will decrease in proportion to the lining wear. It is a result of the outward
movement of caliper and wheel cylinder pistons to compensate for normal wear. Top
up reservoir fluid and check brake operation to verify the complaint.
Spongy pedal
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the system. However thin drums or
substandard brake lining and hoses will also cause a condition similar to spongy
pedal. The proper course of action is bleed the system or replace thin drums and
suspect quality brake lining and hoses. In case the system has not been maintained
as per recommendations and the brake hoses have not been replaced then due to
swelling of the hoses during braking – it also causes spongy braking. In such a
condition it is advisable to replace the hoses and replace all the seals and change
the brake fluid.
Hard pedal or high pedal effort
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to lining that is water soaked,
contaminated, glazed or badly worn. Defective vacuum assistance will also cause
hard operation. The vacuum booster or check valve (NRV) could also be faulty. Test
the booster function. As detailed below —
1. Start engine & check booster hose connections as well as the EGR valve
connections. Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding further.
2. Stop the engine and put in neutral.
3. Pump the brake pedal until all the vacuum in the reservoir is exhausted (normally
after 6 to 8 pedal applications the brake pedal will become hard)
4. Press and hold brake pedal under light foot pressure
a) If the pedal hold firm then proceed to step 5.
b) If the pedal does not hold firm then and falls away then the master cylinder is
defective.
5. Start the engine and note pedal action.
a) If the pedal falls away slightly under light pedal action and then hold firm then
proceed to step 6
b) If no pedal action is discernable then vacuum pump or vacuum check valve is
defective.
Brakes-4
6. Rebuild the vacuum reserve as follows. Release brake pedal. Increase engine
speed to 1500 rpm and then bring it to idle and shut off engine.
7. Wait for about 90 seconds and try brake action again. Booster should provide two
or more vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is not performed then
perform check for the check valve and booster.
Find the enclosed flow chart for reference –

Brakes-5
TROUBLE SHOOTING OF VACUUM BOOSTER ASSEMBLY
BASIC TEST
ENGINE OFF. Depress & release brake pedal several times to remove vacuum
from Booster Assembly. After this the pedal application will feel hard to press.
Depress the brake pedal & hold with light pressure of @ 10kgs. & start the
ENGINE
If the booster is functioning satisfactory, the pedal will fall slightly & then hold.
Here less pressure will be needed to hold the pedal dawn.
IF THE BOOSTER IS NOT OPERATING If the BOOSTER is

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the OPERATING pl. turns over
NRV. Then with ENGINE RUNNING, & do the VACUUM LEAK
Check vacuum supply with a vacuum TEST.
gauge. There should be at least 600 mm of
Hg vacuum for Diesel vehicle.
If VACUUM SUPPLY IS BELOW 600 If VACUUM SUPPLY IS

mm of Hg for diesel vehicle replace or 600 mm of Hg for or more for
repair vacuum hose & vacuum diesel vehicle, then the booster is
source. faulty & should be replaced.
When adequate vacuum supply is

obtained, repeat basic test.

Brakes-6
VACUUM LEAK TEST
Run engine to medium speed. Release accelerator

& turn Engine OFF. This builds up vacuum.
Wait for 90 sec. & apply brakes. Two or more

applications should be vacuum assisted.
IF APPLICATIONS ARE NOT IF APPLICATIONS ARE

VACUUM VACUUM ASSISTED there
ASSISTED disconnect vacuum hose is no vacuum leak.
from vacuum source or NRV DO THE HYDRAULIC LEAK
whichever is easier. If disconnected TEST
from NRV, attach short length of hose
Blow into hose attached to NRV. If air

passes through, valve is defective.
IF NRV or CHECK VALVE IS IF NRV OR CHECK VALVE

DEFECTIVE install new NRV IS OK, vacuum booster is
& repeat VACUUM LEAK leaking & should be
TEST replaced
Depress & release brake pedal

several times. Then hold pedal
depressed with medium pressure.
IF PEDAL FALLS AWAY hydraulic IF PEDAL DOES NOT

system is leaking. Check for external FALLS AWAY hydraulic
leakage at wheel cylinders, callipers, system is not leaking.
brake pipes, hoses & joints.
If there is no external leak, there may be
an internal leak (master cylinder seals).
Repair or replace parts needed to correct
leak.
CHECK VALVE OR NRV -- NON RETURN VALVE, MOUNTED ON VACUUM
BOOSTER FRONT FACE.

Brakes-7
Brake drag
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant contact with the rotor or drum. Drag
can occur at one wheel, all wheels, front only or rear only. It is caused by incomplete
shoe release. Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the lining, rotor and
drum.
Brake drag has a direct effect on fuel economy. Undetected minor drag can be
misdiagnosed as an engine complaint. In case of severe drag it can also cause
clutch slip.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring of the lining. It can also generate
hard spots in the rotor or the brake drum from the overheating/ cooling process. In
most cases the rotors, drums, wheels, and tyres are quite warm to touch after the
vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way through. It can also cause distort
and score rotors and drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tyre and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases the lining may generate smoke as
it chars from overheating.
Some common causes of brake drag are:

♦Loose or damaged wheel bearing
♦ Seized or sticky caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
♦ Loose caliper-mounting bracket.
♦ Loose mounting bolts of the rotor.
♦ Bent sliding pins in the calliper.
♦ Distorted brake drum or shoes.
♦ Rear brake shoes binding on worn/ damaged support plates
♦ Misassembled components
♦ Incomplete release of parking brake
♦ No free play
♦ Clogged master cylinder return port
♦ Broken master cylinder return spring
♦ Early lock of rear wheel due to change in setting distance of LSPV .
If the brake drag occurs at all the wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked
master cylinder compensation port or faulty vacuum booster (binds does not
release).
An improperly mounted brake light switch can also be a cause of drag. An improper
mounting may prevent the brake pedal to return completely. This will cause the
master cylinder feed port to be blocked. The brakes would be partially applied
causing the drag.
Brake Fade
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by brake drag. However overheating

and subsequent brake fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal, making
repeated high deceleration stops in a short time span,
Constant braking on steep roads also cause brake fade. If the brake lining is
contaminated with oil or glazed then also the brake fading will take place.
Pedal Pulsation
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are loose or beyond tolerance limits.

Brakes-8
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral run out or disc thickness variation, or out of
round drums are the primary cause of pulsation. Other causes are loose wheel
bearings or calipers and worn, damaged tyre
Brake Pull
A front pull condition would be the result of:

• Contaminated lining in one caliper.
• Seized caliper piston
• Binding caliper.
• Loose caliper.
• Loose or corroded slide pin.
• Improper brake shoes
• Inadequate contact of pad.
• Damaged rotor
• Incorrect tyre inflation (High variations between two wheel)
• Shoe return spring weak or broken
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension components are further cause. A

damaged front tyre (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condition is where the direction of pull
changes after a few stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag followed by
brake fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so reduced as the fade occurs. If the
opposite braking unit is still functioning then its braking effect is magnified. These
causes pull to switch direction in favour of the brake unit that is functioning normally.
While diagnosing a pull in change in pull condition, remember that pull will return to
the original direction if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is not
seriously damaged)
Rear Brake Grab
Contaminated lining, bent, or binding shoes and support plate usually causes rear
grab (or pull). This is particularly true when one wheel is involved. However when
both rear wheels are affected the master cylinder or the proportionate valve could be
at fault.
Brakes do not Hold after Driving through Deep Water Puddle
This condition is generally caused by water soaked lining. If the lining is only wet it
can be dried by driving with the brakes lightly applied for 2 to 4 kms. However if the
lining is both wet and dirty then it will be necessary to dismantle, clean and
reassemble.
Brake Fluid Contamination
There are two causes of brake fluid contamination. The first involves allowing dirt,
debris, or other liquid material to enter cylinder reservoir when the cover is off. The
second involves adding to, or filling the cylinder with a non- – recommended fluid.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris usually retains a normal
appearance. In some cases the foreign material will remain suspended in the fluid
and be visible. The fluid and foreign material can be removed from the reservoir with
a suction gun but only if the brakes have not been applied. If the brakes are applied
after contamination, system flushing will be required. The master cylinder may have
Brakes-9
to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston seals replaced. Foreign material lodged
in the reservoir compensator/ports can cause brake drag by restricting the fluid return
after application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non recommended fluid will usually be discoloured,

milky, oily looking or foamy. In some cases it may even appear as if the fluid contains
sludge. However remember that the brake fluid will darken in time and
occasionally are cloudy in appearance. These are normal conditions and
should not be mistaken for contamination.
If some type of oil has been added to the system then the fluid can separate into
distinct layers. This can be verified by draining off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and observe fluid action. If the fluid
separates into distinct layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-recommended fluids is to

flush the entire hydraulic system and replace all the seals and the brake hose.
Brake Noise
Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to lining that are wet or contaminated with brake
fluid, grease or oil. Glazed linings and rotor/drums with hard spots can also cause
squealing. Dirt and foreign material embedded in the system will also cause
squeak/squeal. Worn retaining pins can also cause disc pad to squeak/ rattle.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of severely worn brake lining (or the
drum or the rotor). If the lining has worn to the rivets then metal to metal contact
takes place. If the condition is allowed to persist then rotors/drums can become so
scored that replacement is necessary.
Thump/clunk
Thumping or clunking noise during braking are not caused by the brake components.
In many cases such noises are caused by loose or damaged steering, suspension or
engine components. However calipers that bind on the slide surface can generate
thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out improperly adjusted, or improperly
assembled rear brake shoes can also produce a thumping noise.
Chatter
Loose or worn components or glazed/burnt lining usually causes brake chatter.

Rotors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes of chatter are
out of tolerance rotors, brake ling not secured properly to shoes, loose wheel
bearings and contaminated brake lining.
Brake lining contamination
Brake lining contamination is usually a product of leaking calipers or wheel cylinders,

driving through deep puddles, or lining that has become covered with grease and
gravel during repair.

Brakes-10
Wheel & Tyre Problems
Some conditions attributed to brake components may actually be caused by a wheel

or tyre problem.
A damage wheel can cause shudder, vibration and pull. A worn or damaged
tyre can also cause pull.
Severely worn tyres with very little tread depth can produce a condition similar
to grab as the tyre loses and recover traction.
Flat spotted tyres can cause vibration and wheel tramp and generate wheel
shudder during brake operation.
A tyre with internal damage such as bruise or ply separation can cause pull
and vibration
Defective Parking Brake
This can be caused by excessive hand brake lever play. Sticky parking cable, grease
or oil on shoe, excess shoe clearance (normally caused by malfunction of automatic
adjusting mechanism)
Care of the system
The brake fluid should conform to DOT 3 specifications.

The brake fluid should be replaced twice a year or every 40,000 Kms – which ever is
earlier. This is because brake fluid is hygroscopic in nature hence it absorbs
moisture. The normal braking operation also results in brake fluid getting heated. The
process of heating and cooling also results in moisture.
The brake fluid boiling point keeps coming down due to the presence of moisture
hence if not changed it can cause higher corrosion of the wheel cylinders/ master
cylinders/ brake tubes as well as spongy or poor braking.
Do not mix brake fluid of different brands. Do not use any brake fluid, which is kept in
an open container. Always use brake fluid from a sealed container.
The brake fluid should not be contaminated with any mineral oil. Do not use reuse
brake fluid that has just been bled. The list of the recommended lubricants is
enclosed at the end of the chapter.

Brakes-11
In Car repairs -
FRONT BRAKE DISC – R&R
FRONT BRAKE PAD – R&R
FRONT BRAKE CALLIPER – R&R
FRONT BRAKES – CHECK
REAR BRAKE SHOE – R&R
REAR BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER – R&R
REAR BACK PLATE – R&R
REAR BRAKE – CHECK
BRAKE PEDAL – R&R
BRAKE PEDAL – CHECK
BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER – R&R
BRAKE BOOSTER – R&R
LSPV – R&R
LSPV – SETTING
PARKING BRAKE – CHECK
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL & LEAK – CHECK
BRAKE BLEEDING

Brakes-12
FRONT BRAKE DISC – R & R
Nut/ Bolt description Torque
Value – Nm.
• Wheel Nut 95± 5 Nm.
• Disc mtg. screw --

1. Remove wheel assembly. 1. Check & refit Disc assy.
2. Remove top side one sliding 2. Check Pad assembly and refit
pin bolt. Lift & rotate the with caliper assy.
caliper. 3. Refit wheel assy.
3. Remove inboard & outboard
• Ensure that the brake hoses are not stretched/ damaged. Brake hose to be
supported on the Shock absorber by the help of grommet fitted on Brake
hose. Ensure that the Brake hose is properly assembled on to the Shock
absorber bracket.

Brakes-13
Inspection of the rotor
1. Check the runout of the wheel disc in four places. Excessive lateral runout will
cause brake pedal pulsation and rapid uneven wear of the brake pads. The
maximum runout permissible is 0.09 mm
2. Disc Brake Rotor thickness variations: Variations in the rotor thickness will
cause pedal pulsation, noise and shudder. It should be kept in mind that the disc
rotor thickness variation is one of the primary causes for brake pedal pulsation.
The maximum variation permissible is ± 0.012 mm
The rotor thickness should be measured in at least 6 different points around the rotor
face. Position the micrometer approximately 15 mm from the outer edge.
Reconditioning of an out of specification rotor —
We do not suggest reconditioning of the rotor as reconditioning the DTV or the

squareness is diffuclt which can cause pedal pulsation or uneven pad life.
Do not go below the minimum specified thickness of 22 mm. Please ensure

that whenever the disc is removed from the hub, then while fitting it back.

Brakes-14
FRONT BRAKE PAD – R & R
Nut/ Bolt description Quantity Nos. Spanner Size Torque
Value – Nm.
• Wheel Nut 05 nos. 21 mm 95± 5 Nm.
• Caliper mtg. bolts 02 nos. 12 mm 90 ±10 Nm.

1. Remove wheel assembly. 1. Check Pads wear limit and
2. Remove top side one sliding cracks if any and refit with
pin bolt. Lift & rotate the caliper assembly.
caliper. 2. Refit wheel assy.
3. Remove inboard & outboard
• The total thickness of each pad with steel Backing plate is 17.0 mm
• The total useful thickness of each pad is 10.0mm. (Average pad life for useful
thickness of 10.0mm is 45000 Kms).
• If the Total thickness of pad measures 7.0 mm or below at 4 locations Pad to
be replaced immediately.
• During replacement it is recommended to replace all the 4 pads for safety
reasons.
Check points –
The removed bolt – pin should be scrapped. While swinging down the calliper
take care and see that the antis squeal shims are not damaged.

Brakes-15
While fitting the guide pin ensure that the straight portion of the pin matches
with the ear of the calliper body.
After tightening the bolt to torque. Rotate the disc and ensure that the disc
is free to rotate.
Connect a transparent plastic pipe to the bleed screw on the calliper.
Dip the other end of the pipe into a container filled with brake fluid.
Ensure the tip of the plastic pipe always remains dipped in the brake fluid.
Loosen the bleed screw & push both the pistons one by one into the caliper
bore. Ensure the pistons are pushed back fully into the caliper bore.
The Pads in the Pad kit are marked < RH > & < LH > on the pad plate.
Assemble < RH > marked pads on RH Caliper & < LH > marked pads on
LH Caliper.
The pad springs should be snap fitted properly on the machined lugs provided
on carrier. Always ensure that the anti rattle pad spring are replaced
whenever the pads are replaced
Because the bleed screw is loosened to push the pistons of the caliper
back, it is required to bleed the vehicle to retain the original brake
performance of the vehicle.
If the pads are to be reused make sure they are assembled back in the same
position as they were when removed i.e., inboard pad on to the piston side
and outboard pad to the wheel side. This is possible only when at the time of
removal these pads are marked for their positions and kept aside. Never
lubricate the pad seating areas as it may lead to jamming.
After fitting the pads, apply brake pedal 5 to 6 times in static condition in order
to make the pads align properly.
The brake pads require nearly 200 Kms of running for bedding in. Hence it is
advisable that during the brake testing after fitting the new pads and also
during the initial run, severe braking and / or continuous operation be
avoided.

Brakes-16
FRONT BRAKE CALLIPER – R & R
Nut/ Bolt description Spanner Size Quantity Torque Value
– Nm.
• Wheel Nut 05 nos. 21 mm. 95± 5 Nm.
• Caliper mtg. bolts. 02 nos. 12 mm. 90 +/- 10 Nm.
Removal Steps –
1. Jack up the vehicle & remove
the wheel.
2. Remove fluid hose connection.
3. Remove brake pads & the
calliper assembly.
1. Ensure brake pads for clean
and free from oil, grease.
2. Check brake pads & Disc for
any crack and its wear limit.
3. Check antirattle springs.
4. Refit calliper assy.
5. Connect fluid line.
6. Refit brake pads.
7. Refit Wheel & do bleeding.
• Ensure that the brake hoses are not stretched/ damaged.

• Ensure proper bleeding after completion of installation.

Brakes-17
Front Brake Description –
When the brake pedal is pressed then the hydraulic pressure pushes the two pistons
to act simultaneously on the brake disc. The combined thrust provided by two pistons
is much higher than the single piston caliper.
The sliding rail type carrier on which the single caliper body slides easily to ensure
that equal thrust is applied on both pads. A higher friction pad area improves the
durability (life) of the friction material.
Disc brakes by their very nature & design are self adjusting to the wear and hence do
not require brake adjustment to compensate the pad wear.
Servicing of Caliper –
Apply hand brakes. Place wheel chocks on rear wheel

Jack up the front of the vehicle and remove the front wheels by loosening /
removing the wheel nuts.
Disconnect the hose from the caliper by removing the banjo bolt
1. Loosen and remove the bottom retaining bolt of the guide pin.
2. Remove the caliper sub assembly after removing the top retaining bolt.
(There is no need to remove the Carrier Assembly with pads from the rotor or stub
axle.) Clean the caliper sub assembly externally with alcohol or fresh brake fluid.

Brakes-18
3. Remove the caliper pistons from the bore by blowing dry compressed air through
the inlet port of the caliper. Care must be taken to remove both the pistons at a time.
Also to avoid the damage to the pistons, place a wooden block in front of the pistons.
(approx. 30 mm thick )
4. Remove the boot.
5. Remove the seal- Pistons from the groove by using a blunt edged connector or
feeler gauge. Take care during seal removal the bore is not damaged.
6. Remove the bleed screw from the caliper body.
Cleaning & Inspection –
All the removed parts should be cleaned properly using fresh brake fluid or alcohol
and kept in a clean tray.
NEVER USE ANY MINERAL OIL BASE FLUIDS LIKE KEROSENE, DIESEL
and PETROL etc. FOR CLEANING OF REMOVED PARTS.
DO NOT CLEAN THE BORE OF THE CALIPER WITH WATER OR STEAM.
The Piston seals are to be lubricated with fresh brake fluid and assembled in to
the seal grooves in the caliper bores. Make sure the seating of this is properly
done. Then lubricate the outer surface of the pistons with fresh brake fluid.
Remove the boot - piston with the help of a screwdriver. Care must be taken not to
damage the seat of the boot in caliper body.
The piston boots are to be lubricated internally with the special grease supplied in
Caliper Repair Kits before it is assembled on the pistons.
Locate the boots on to the caliper pistons. Insert the caliper pistons into the bore &
push it gently into the bore.
Brakes-19
Once the piston is home, ensure the fitment of the boot on to the boot groove on the
piston.
The piston should be inserted into the bore in a straight position only. If it gets tilted
while pushing, there is a chance that the piston will get jam half way & also can
damage the seal.
Once the piston is inserted inside the bore, put a wooden block on the piston & with
the help of a ‘C’ Clamp push it inside the bore. Face to face fitment of the boot to be
insured. Repeat the procedure for the other piston.
The wooden block should have the corners rounded to ensure the proper fitment of
boot into the grooves. Otherwise the wooden block can foul against the radius on
caliper body.
Replacement of Sliding pin Kit –
1. Loosen and remove the bottom retaining bolt of the guide pin.
2. Remove the top retaining bolt of the locking pin.
3. Remove the guide pin.
4. Remove the locking pin with bush from the carrier.
5. Remove the boot – Pin from the carrier.
Smear the pins and the pin bores with the special grease supplied in Sliding Pin Kit.
Apply light grease on locking pin. Fit the pin boots on to the pins and assemble it on
to the carrier bore. Ensure proper location of the boot lip on to the carrier. Move the
pins in and out 3 to 5 times in order to allow for the trapped air inside the bore to
escape.
Repeat the above procedure for the other side caliper assembly.

Brakes-20
FRONT BRAKES – CHECK
Park the vehicle on leveled ground. Jack the vehicle up & remove the wheel.
1. Check the disc for wear (Minimum usable thickness of the disc is 22 mm).
2. Loosen & remove the bottom side sliding pin bolt. Swing up the caliper. Remove
the pads & check the pad thickness. The minimum usable pad thickness is 7 mm.
If observed less; replace the pads. (The groove at the center of the pad can also
be used as a reference. If the pad has worn out till the end of the groove; it
should be replaced)
3. Check for the brake oil leakage from Calipers.

Brakes-21
REAR BRAKE SHOE - R&R
Nut/ Bolt description Quantity Nos. Spanner Torque
Size Value – Nm.
• Wheel Nut 05 nos. 21 mm. 95± 5 Nm.
Removal Steps –
2. Remove brake drum. If there is any difficulty in removing the drum; use the special tool &
drop the setting.
3. Remove the parking brake cable lock.
4. Remove the shoe, lining assembly and auto adjuster assembly.
• Check liners for wear limit and crack if any.

• Ensure liners are free form oil, grease.
• Whenever the Shoe and lining assembly is replaced, replace both RH & LH
assemblies as a set to prevent vehicle pulling when braking.
• Always replace springs whenever Brake liners are replaced.
• Measure the inside diameter of brake drum at two or more locations to check
Ovality.( Should be less then 0.050 mm)
• Inspect the shoe hold down springs, cups & shoe hold down pins for any
damage / deformation. Replace if required.
• It is advisable to use new shoe return springs.
• It is advisable to fit the parking brake cable on the slot in the trailing shoe
before assembling it on the back plate.
• Clean the shoe resting pads on the back plate & both the shoe tips and apply
small quantity of grease at the shoe resting pads.

Brakes-22
Assembly precautions –

Place one shoe on back plate & assemble pin shoe hold down cup. Fit one
end of the shoe return spring - lower in the slot provided on brake shoe.
Assemble the other end of the shoe return spring – lower in the second shoe.
Tilt & place the shoe on the back plate & fit the shoe hold down pin & cup.
While fitting the lower return spring take care that end with the fewer turns is
facing the trailing shoe (towards the rear of the vehicle.)
Place the auto adjuster assembly between the shoe web slot & hand brake
lever slot.
Assemble shoe return spring –Upper return spring on adjuster lever. Place a
screw driver inside the small hook of the spring & by pulling fit the spring in
the shoe slot. Ensure no damage to the Auto Adjuster Lever.
Ensure that the auto adjuster lever edge is properly located on tooth of auto
adjuster wheel.
Connect the Parking brake cable in reverse order of dismantling.
Before refitting the brake drum check that the drum thickness has not gone below 1
mm. A thin brake drum will flex during braking reducing the braking efficiency
and also it will cause improper functioning of the parking brakes.( Useful brake
drum Ø is 284 mm)
Apply brakes few times to adjust the brake shoes.
Working principle, Assembly & dismantling of the Rear Brake –
The rear brakes are self-adjusting. When the brakes are applied the hydraulic
pressure from the TMC actuates the double acting cylinder which pushes the brake
shoe against the brake drum. At the backside of the leading shoe the auto adjusting
mechanism is located. It is basically a pawl and ratchet mechanism. With the ratchet
fitted on the leading shoe. Thus when the leading shoe moves forward it moves the
ratchet along with it. On the release of the brakes the return springs pull back the
shoes. However the amount of the travel the shoe can travel back is controlled by the
clearance between the pawl and ratchet teeth. This travel back is set so that the
radial clearance between the brake drum and the shoe does not exceed more than
0.65 mm

Brakes-23
REAR BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER - R & R
Nut/ Bolt description Quantity Nos. Spanner Torque
Size Value – Nm.
• Wheel Nut 05 nos. 21 mm. 95± 5 Nm
• Wheel cylinder mtg. bolts 02 nos. 12 mm. 25 +/- 05
Nm.
Removal Steps –
1. Draining of brake fluid.
3. Remove brake drum.
4. Remove the shoe & lining assembly.
5. Remove wheel cylinder fluid connection and wheel cylinder assy.
• Ensure for proper brake system bleeding after assembling.

• Check liners for wear limit and crack if any.
• Ensure liners are free from oil, grease.

Brakes-24
Wheel cylinder overhaul –
For removal and refitting the brake liner please Refer to Rear Brake Liner
replacement section. Disconnect the brake Bundy tubes. Remove the rubber boots
at the ends of the wheel cylinder. Remove the pistons along with the spring. Check
the bore of the cylinder for any pitting or scuffing- if so then the wheel cylinder will
need to be replaced. Check the piston for any deep scoring or scuffing. Before
assembly clean the wheel cylinder and piston with white spirit or clean brake fluid.
Do not attempt to clean with any mineral oil. Any trace of it left will contaminate
the brake fluid and reduce the life of the all the rubber components of the
hydraulic system. It is advisable to fit the parking brake cable on the slot in the
trailing shoe before assembling it on the back plate
Before refitting the brake drum check that the drum thickness has not come below 1
mm. A thin brake drum will flex during braking reducing the braking efficiency
and also it will cause improper functioning of the parking brakes.( Useful brake
drum Ø is 284 mm)

Brakes-25
REAR BACK PLATE - R & R
Nut/ Bolt description Quantity Nos. Spanner Size Torque Value –
Nm.
• Wheel Nut 05 nos. 21 mm. 95± 5 Nm
• Back plate mtg. bolts 06 nos. 13 mm. 25+/- 05 Nm.
Removal Steps –
1. Draining of brake fluid.
3. Remove brake drum.
4. Remove the shoe & lining assembly.
5. Remove wheel cylinder fluid connection and wheel cylinder assembly.
6. Remove hub assembly.
7. Remove back plate assembly.
• Ensure that the brake hoses are not stretched/ damaged.

• Ensure proper brake system bleeding after assembly.

Brakes-26
REAR BRAKE – CHECK
Park the vehicle on level ground. Jack the vehicle up & remove the wheel.
1. Rear Brake – Open the drum & clean the brakes by blowing compressed air.
Check the wheel cylinder for oil leakage. (It is recommended to check the oil
seepage from wheel cylinder by lifting the dust boots.)
2. Check the brake lining for wear/cracks. The minimum usable thickness of the
liner is 3.5 mm (The brake liners must be replaced before the rib starts touching
the drum).
3. After re-assembly, check the wheel freeness in both forward & reverse direction.

Brakes-27
BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY – R & R
Nut/ Bolt description Quantity Nos. Spanner Size Torque Value –
Nm.
• Pedal mounting 08 nos. 12 mm. 16 +/- 1.5 Nm.
bolts
Removal Steps –
1. Removals of Stop lamp switch connector & switch.
2. Return spring.
3. Split pin.
4. Clevis pin.
5. Brake pedal.
6. Bushing.
7. Pedal support member.

Brakes-28
Brake booster check –
Refer illustration shown,
1. Depress the brake pedal

3 to 4 times when engine
not running.
2. Depress brake pedal and
start the engine, if the
pedal moves downward
slightly, the booster is in
good condition. If there is
no difference the booster
is defective.

Brakes-29
Working principle, Overhaul of the Master Cylinder –
The Master cylinder is a tandem type with two seals each on primary & secondary
pistons. The movement of the brake pedal causes the booster to come in operation
and it moves the push rod. The push rod moves the primary piston in the master
cylinder. In this design of master cylinder, the primary piston & the return spring are
screwed with a shoulder screw & the secondary return spring is snap fitted on the
secondary piston. Hence the pressure output from primary as well as from the
secondary outlet is achieved simultaneously. The initial movement of the brake pedal
in turn pushes the primary piston; closes the reservoir (smaller in size) port.
Further movement causes the piston to pressurize the brake fluid. The primary
chamber is connected to the front brakes and the secondary to the rear.
One safety feature of the master cylinder is the independent pressure generation of
primary & secondary circuit. The secondary piston secondary seal differentiates the
primary & secondary circuits.
The reservoir is mounted directly on top of the master cylinder. The reservoir has
baffles inside to ensure independent oil supply to primary & secondary circuits &
houses a Fluid Level Warning Indicator (FLWI).
Servicing of Master Cylinder –
The TMC can be serviced only if the condition of the cylinder bore is satisfactory, i.e.
free from score marks, ridges, pitting etc. Otherwise the complete TMC is to be
replaced with a new assembly. Before removing TMC from Booster take out all the
brake fluid from the reservoir with a syringe or attaching the bleeding pipe to Rear
Brake & Front Caliper Pump the brake fluid out from the brake lines.
• Loosen & remove air cleaner clips, clamp bolts & remove the air cleaner assembly.
• Loosen & disconnect the brake pipes from Tandem Master Cylinder delivery ports.

Brakes-30
• Loosen & remove the Tandem Master Cylinder clamping bolts & separate the TMC
Assembly from the booster.
Hold the brake fluid reservoir and by rocking it on both sides, lift the same out of the
rubber grommets fitted on to the TMC ports. Remove the rubber grommets from the
TMC inlet ports as shown in fig. or with the help of a screw driver with blunt edge. By
slightly depressing the primary piston with a hylem rod or screw with blunt edge,
remove the circlip
Remove the Primary Piston Assembly.
Remove the Secondary Piston Assembly by gently tapping the TMC assembly on a
wooden bock.
Discard all rubber parts.
Never use any mineral oil base fluids like Kerosene, Diesel, Petrol, Thinner etc. for
cleaning of the Brake Aggregates & their child parts.
• Ensure visually that the feed port holes (2 compensating holes + 2 vent holes) are
clear. Do not poke these holes with sharp instruments.
Examination of TMC and Internal Parts –
Examine the bore of the TMC. If it is not scored , ridged or pitted and smooth, if felt,
the TMC can be rebuilt using the Service Kit .If in case of slightest doubt on the bore
condition, like deep groves or score marks in the bore then a new cylinder assembly
should be replaced.
Examine both the pistons for rust, ridges or burrs. Ensure both the pistons are in
good condition, free from the above conditions.
If contamination is observed in the removed seals (seals would have swollen and the
size would have enlarged compared to the new seals) ensure all rubber parts in the
system including rear wheel cylinder seals, front caliper seals and the front and rear
rubber hoses must be discarded and the entire system to be flushed with new brake
fluid.
Assembly of TMC –
The Assembly Sequence is in reverse order to disassembly. If a Minor Repair kit is

being used – The Minor Repair kit consists of the Primary Piston Assembly as the
Primary Piston Assembly can not be serviced in field. The Secondary Piston
Assembly is serviceable & the servicing procedure is as follows –
1. Remove the snap fit return spring of Secondary Piston.
2. Remove the spring retainer.

Brakes-31
3. Remove the Primary Seal (Secondary Piston).
4. Cut the secondary seal on secondary Piston taking due care not to damage the
piston.
5. While refitting the Secondary Piston, Primary Seal, ensure the fitment of the safety
washer behind the primary seal
6. The correct orientation of Secondary Piston, Secondary Seal to be ensured. Insert
the Secondary Piston Assembly into the bore & then the Primary Piston Assembly;
with the spring end leading. Care must be taken to properly guide the seals into the
bore and thereby avoiding any damage to the seals. With the help of a hylem rod
actuate the primary piston couple of times to ensure the quick return of the piston.
ENSURE THAT THE TMC FLANGE SURFAE IS FREE FROM DIRT, DENT &
BURR BEFORE MOUNTING IT ON TO THE BOOSTER.
NOTE –
1. It is essential that reservoir cap must be removed and cleaned. While assembling
the reservoir cap ensure the presence of filter in the reservoir.
2. After fitting TMC on to the vehicle / vacuum booster, the outlet pipes are to be
connected and torque tightened.

Brakes-32
Working principle of the brake booster –
The Booster is a non- serviceable Unit & it should never be tampered with.
Ensure booster out put rod is correctly aligned to the primary piston bore during the
coupling of TMC to the booster. The Scorpio vehicle is equipped with a Tandem type
vacuum booster to assist driver’s effort. This is achieved by using vacuum from the
vacuum pump provided on alternator in case of diesel engines & from inlet manifold
in case of petrol engines.
A pair of diaphragms is provided between the two shells of the booster & difference
of pressure on two sides of diaphragms (one side vacuum & other side atmospheric
pressure) gives mechanical advantage. This amplifies the driver’s pedal effort while
braking. The booster assembly & TMC assembly are coupled with the help of two
nuts & washer. The meting dimensions of booster & TMC are factory set. Hence –
Do not alter the height of the output rod of the Vacuum Booster unit at any
stage and ensure Booster out put rod is correctly aligned to the primary piston
bore during the coupling of TMC to the booster.

Brakes-33
Working principle of LSPV Valve –
Description –
When there is a large difference in vehicle weight between laden & empty conditions;
during dynamic braking, the weight on the rear axle tends to shift towards the frontal
direction of vehicle ( known as Load / Weight Transfer ) resulting into less vertical
load on rear axle which results into rear wheel locking. LSPV regulates the pressure
in the rear brakes in proportion to the load in vehicle. Hence it is called as Load
Sensing Proportioning Valve.
Installation & Working Principle –

This valve is mounted on vehicle chassis with the help of two bolts near the rear axle.
It is provided with a control spring which is attached to the rear axle by a special bolt
passing through a bush. The control spring is in pre elongated condition. This spring
senses the deflection of rear axle under different loads & thereby automatically
adjusts the operating characteristics (Knee point Pressure) of the valve. Inlet port of
the valve is connected to the delivery port of secondary circuit of TMC & outlet port of
the valve is connected to rear brakes through piping. The front inlet (bypass) port of
valve is connected to the front (secondary) circuit of the TMC to sense the front
circuit failure.
Working of Valve –
Refer the attached figure.

Area ‘A’
Area ‘P’
Spring Force ‘F1’

Brakes-34
Initially the main spring force keeps the piston pressed in upward direction keeping
outlet port connected to rear circuit open at seal, till knee point i.e. inlet pressure is
transmitted to the rear circuit through outlet port without any pressure regulation.
Further pressing of brake pedal increases the inlet pressure to LSPV & in turn
increases the downward force acting on the piston. (The downward force is created
by hydraulic pressure available in front circuit acting on area ‘A’.)
The downward movement of the piston closes the entry of oil from rear inlet port to
outlet port at sealing point ‘P’.
At this point there are three forces acting on the piston –
1. Upward force ‘F1’ of main spring.

2. Hydraulic force acting on area ‘P’.
3. Hydraulic force acting downwards on area ‘A’.
Since the resultant force is positive, the piston lifts upwards & the Oil entered from
Inlet port is fed to outlet Port & the pressure to outlet increases. Further increase in
inlet pressure (due to pressing of brake pedal) again results into downward
movement of piston, thereby closing the outlet at point ‘P’ & results into drop in outlet
pressure.
The process continues & follows a fixed pattern.
LSPV Performance in Front Fail Condition (Bypass Function) –

In case of leakages – Internal or External, in the front circuit there is a failure of front
circuit & front calipers become ineffective. Under this emergency condition the
bypass valve operates automatically. This is achieved by following mechanism.
In front fail condition the force acting on piston will only be –
1. Control Spring Load ‘F1’ acting upwards

2. Hydraulic force acting on area ‘P’
3. Upward force at ‘O’ ring in front circuit
This keeps the sealing point ‘P’ always open. (Due to the front circuit failure the
hydraulic force acting on area ‘A’ is zero.) So input pressure becomes equal to output
pressure. This is called bypass function & transmits the whole pressure developed in
rear circuit of TMC to rear brakes without any pressure reduction.
Maintenance Precautions –
LSPV is a non-serviceable unit & should be replaced if any problem arises.
During vehicle servicing control spring setting should be checked & corrected if
required with the help of an ‘Installation gauge ‘provided for the purpose. The
stretched length of the control spring should be set at 92.5 mm with the help of
Installation gauge.
The correct setting of Control Spring ensures adequate oil pressure to rear
circuit & thereby ensures no skidding of rear wheels.
The LSPV setting needs to be carried out if:
The axle has been removed.

LSPV Valve replaced.
Any change in rear suspension carried.
Brakes-35
LSPV – R & R and Setting
LSPV is mounted on 2 bolts on bracket fitted on chassis. It has got three brake fluid
connections. One is LSPV inlet from TMC, 2nd is LSPV outlet towards Rear wheel, 3rd
is LSPV bypass connected to front four ways TEE. The LSPV spring other end is
mounted on the bracket on differential.
LSPV Setting - The LSPV setting is must in first service.
(This is necessary as the suspension gets settled and setting may change)
The LSPV setting length is 92.5mm.

The gauge used for LSPV setting is MST xxx.
Before start of LSPV setting, ensure the vehicle is Unladen.
Procedure for fitting and setting the LSPV Valve –
Mount the LSPV valve on the bracket in the chassis. Fit all the hydraulic connections
Before fitting / setting the LSPV valve ensure that the
- Vehicle unladen condition (Kerb weight) means No driver and no additional load.
Fuel tank is assumed to be ¾ full.
- Before doing the fitment/setting run the vehicle through rough road /normal
road for 5 to 10 kms. This is essential for the spring/ bushes to settle.
1. Remove the clip. Remove the Washer. Refer illustration shown.

2. Slide the control spring out from the bolt. Put the projecting pin of the tool in
the eye of the spring & allow the tool to hang freely..

Brakes-36
3. Loosen the nut the M8 Hex Nut (Use 12 Ring Spanner) during removal hold
the other end with 14 Spanner & move the bolt in such a way that the bolt is
aligned & enters in the slot on the tool. Refer illustration shown.
4. Retighten the nut in such a way that the bolt is in the correct position as
indicated by the tool.
5. Remove the tool.
6. Pull down the spring and locate the eye in the bolt. Ensure that the spring is
sitting properly in its position. Fit the washer & the ‘e’ clip.
1
3

Brakes-37
PARKING BRAKE – CHECK
1. Check Brake & Clutch Pedals for free play & sponginess. Refer SOP given in
Repair Manual.
2. Check Parking Brake Lever operation & setting.
• Park the vehicle on a slope and apply Parking Brake to check the effectiveness
• Release the Parking Brake & check the free rolling.
3. Check the parking cables (especially rear) for correct routing.

Brakes-38
Parking Brake -- Description, Setting –
The parking brake is cable actuated and acts on the rear brakes.
On applying the parking brake the parking cables are pulled and they act on the
trailing shoes at the lower end. Since the shoe is pivoted on top it result in actuation
of the trailing shoe. Due to the scroll plate the force also gets transmitted to the
leading shoe. Based on the slackness in the system the parking brake is manually
adjusted by readjusting the adjusting stud and lock nut.

Brakes-39
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL & LEAK - CHECK
1
2
Refer above illustration shown.

1. Check for Brake Fluid Level up to ‘Max’ mark on the reservoir.
2. Check for Brake Fluid leakage and correct fitment at all joints –
• Brake Master Cylinder outlet.
• Brake Bundy tube to flexible hose joint.
• Flexible hose joints at Front Callipers & Rear TEE joint.
• LSPV inlet & outlet.
• Wheel Cylinder inlets & bleed screws.
3. Change Fluid & bleed the system as per the procedure prescribed in the Repair

Brakes-40
Manual @ 40000 kms or 1year.
BRAKE BLEEDING -
The sequence of the bleeding which has to be ensured is –
5 2
4 1
Refer above illustration -
1. Rear left
2. Rear right
3. LSPV
4. Front left
5. Front right
The procedure at each of the bleed point is to pump 2 to 3 times; open the bleed
screw1/4th turn. Then close the bleed screw. Again pump 2/3 times then open the
bleed screw keeping the pedal pressed down. Close the bleed screw and release the
pedal. Repeat the operation until no bubbles are coming. The Bypass valve is inbuilt
in the LSPV & it should be bled at the time of bleeding.
It is also advisable to keep the engine running at idling so that the pedal travel is
complete.
Refill the fluid in clutch system; ensure that the fluid is getting refilled in system as
well as air in the system is getting pass through the bleed screw on slave cylinder.

Brakes-41
Ttightens bleed screws as soon as continue flow of fluid starts. Bleed the Clutch
System and ensure no air trapped in the system.
Before opening the reservoir cap- clean the area of all dust and muck.
Before starting the bleeding – ensure that the parking brake is in released condition.
After bleeding each point put back the rubber cap.
Always use the brake fluid from an unopened container.
A pipe should be connected from the bleed screw to a clean container where the pipe
other end is fully immersed in brake fluid. Doing the bleeding without the pipe can
lead to improper bleeding; the presence of small bubble can not be seen without the
tube.
Do not reuse the bled fluid immediately. (It will have air bubbles entrapped.)
During the bleeding operation ensure that the master cylinder fluid level does not
become below lower level. (It can draw air thus defeating the purpose of bleeding)
If the brake fluid has to be reused then it should be poured into a can using clean
plastic pipe. The removed fluid should be kept without disturbing for at least 72
hours, so as to allow the air bubbles to get out.
Later it is suggested to use chamois leather to strain the brake fluid.

Brakes-42
Specifications & Wear data –
Disc pad Usable 10 max

thickness
Replace disc pad if 7 mm ( worn to groove)

worn out thickness
less than
Rotor thickness-new 24 mm
Minimum disc 22 mm
thickness
Runout of rotor 0.09 mm

face- permissible
limit

Brakes-43
Disc thickness ± 0.012 mm

variation allowed
Rear Drum thickness 8.20 to 8.35 mm
Minimum thickness 1 mm
of brake drum
Maximum useful drum Ø 284 mm
Maximum taper/ bell 0.05 mm

mouthing of brake
drum
Rear brake lining 3.5 mm
Usable thickness

Brakes-44
Replace when lining 1 mm.
thickness falls below
Minimum Usable
thickness of
Brake shoe Lining Rane SF 2M

Material
Setting length 92.5 mm

(By setting gauge)
Master cylinder I.D 20.64 mm
Wheel Cylinder I.D 23.81 mm
Brake disc O.D 281 mm

Brakes-45
Rear Drum I.D 282 mm
Boost ratio 7.5
Booster size 254 mm

BI – Single diaphragm
type
Clearance Automatic
Adjustment- Front Automatic
Rear
Free Play of the 2-3 mm

Brake Pedal

Brakes-46
Description Torque Value
Front Brake Caliper Mounting 80±10 Nm

Bolts
Sliding Pin Bolts 27 ± 5 Nm
Banjo Bolt - Caliper 24 Nm
Brake pipe connectors – 16 ± 2 Nm

Master Cylinder
Vacuum Booster – Mounting 21 ± 7 Nm

Nuts
Brake Pipe connectors – Wheel 16 ± 2 Nm

Cylinder
LSPV Banjo Bolt 24 ± 2 Nm
LSPV Brake Pipe Connectors 16 ± 2 Nm
Recommended Lubricants –
Specification: DOT 3
Hindustan Petroleum: HP Super Duty Brake Fluid
Castrol: TVS-Girling Brake Fluid
Indian Oil: Servo Brake fluid Super HD

Body-1
BODY
Contents…
Vehicle Overview – Front & Rear
Vehicle Dimensions
VIN/ Engine & Chassis Number
Tow Hook Location
In Car Repairs
Tightening Torque Details

The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes
introduced by the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of
whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of © 2009 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Body-2
Vehicle Overview – Front and Rear
1. Window Glass 2. Head lamp and parking lamp.

3. Windshield wipers 4. Windshield washer jet
5. Engine compartment bay 6. Turn indicator
7. Fog lamp front 8. Side repeater
9. Front door 10. Rear door.
1. Side view mirror powered.

1.2. . Rear windshield demister (bottom position) / Printed antenna (top portion)
3. Rear wiper (optional) 4. Windshield washer rear.
5. Rear high mounted stop lamp 6. License plate lamp
7. Fog lamp rear 8. Rear parking assist system
9. Back door (Tail Gate) 10. Tail lamp
11. Fuel lid flap 12. Road wheels
13. Side foot step 14. Amplifier (Optional)
Body-3
Vehicle’s Dimensions -
Character Abbreviation Dimension

A Overall Length 4520mm
B Overall Width 1850mm
C Overall Height 1895mm
D Wheel Base 2760mm
E Track Width 1500mm
F Departure Angle 17°
G Ramp Over Angle 19°
H Approach Angle 27°
Vehicle Identification Number –

(VIN)/Vehicle Serial Number is the legal identity of your vehicle. It is used in registering
the ownership. Vehicle identification number plate is riveted on to the floor. Lift the floor
carpet in front of the front passenger seat to access VIN plate.

Body-4
The Engine Number -
It is punched on the left hand side face of

the crankcase adjacent to water pump as
shown above.
Chassis number –
It is punched on the right side long member
of the chassis close to front right wheel as
shown in the figure above.

Body-5
Tow Hook - Front
Pries of the cover in the front bumper beneath fog lamp to access the tow hook location.
Screw in tow eye is attached to tool kit stored along with the vehicle jack. Keep the
towing eye with the vehicle all the time. Replace the cap after use.
Tow Hook - Rear

Prise open the cover in the rear bumper beneath rear fog lamp to access the tow hook
location. Replace the cap after use.

Body-6
In Car Repairs –
Body Mounting – R&R
Foot Steps – R&R
Hood Adjustment
Door Setting
Door Window Glass Adjustment
Radiator Shield & Grill - R&R
Instrument Cluster – R&R
Instrument Panel – R&R
Floor Bezel – R&R
Front Bumper – R&R
Rear Bumper – R&R
Plenum Applique – R&R
Windshield Washer Tank Front R&R
Windshield Washer Tank Rear R&R
Roof Lining – R&R
Flooring/ Carpet – R&R
Windshield Glass – R&R
Headlamp Bulb – R&R
Tail Light and Bulb – R&R
HMSL – R&R
Licence Plate Bulb – R&R

Body-7
BODY MOUNTINGS – R & R
Nut/ Bolt description Spanner Size Quantity Nos. Torque Value –
Nm.
• Body mtg. bolts 13 mm. 08 nos. 65 ± 5 Nm.

Body-8
NOTE:
• Body mounts/ triggers named LH2,
LH3, LH4 & RH2, RH3, and RH4 are
all similar.
• These mounts are different than
front one.
• Refer sketch shown for correct
fitment of body mounts.
NOTE:
• Body mounts/ triggers on front both
are here shown as LH1 & RH1.
• Front mounts are different than rear
all.
• Refer sketch shown for correct
fitment of body mounts.

Body-9
FOOT STEP FITTMENT –
Fitment Procedure –
1. First insert the footstep in stud located at front side. Refer sketch ‘A’
2. After step-1, insert foot step in stud located at 4th bracket. Pre-tight the nuts to
these mountings.
3. Pre tight remaining bolts.
4. Fix 2 push pins in front end cap with splash shield. Refer Sketch ‘B’.
5. Torque four horizontal mounting nuts & bolts (pre tightened in steps 2 & 3
mentioned above) and then four vertical mounting bolts (pre tightened in steps
2& 3 mentioned above).
6. Loose Front End Cap bottom mounting bolts. Refer sketch ‘B’
7. Adjust the gap between cap & body. Tighten the bolts.
8. Loose Rear End Cap bottom mounting bolts.
9. Adjust the gap between cap & body.
10. Tighten the bolts.
FRONT END CAP REAR END CAP

Body-10
Please check and ensure followings while assembling footsteps.

Body-11
Insert foot step in fender side mtg.

stud first & then insert in wheel
housing side mounting.
Use M13 bolt for all mounting
points expect two studs where M12
size nuts 2 nos. is to be used
LH side parking cable routing

should be done from outside of foot
step leg as shown.
Loosen foot step end cap mtg. bolts &

adjust end cap gap w.r.t. fender & wheel
housing by pressing end cap upwards if
gap is more than 12 mm & press end
cap towards outer side if it is under flush
with wheel housing & fender panel.
Specified Gap with Wheel housing &

Fender Panel = 14 ± 1 mm
Specified Flushness = 3 ± 1 mm under
flush w.r.t. fender & wheel housing.
Press foot step end cap in

upward direction for
adjusting gap.

Body-12
Hood Adjustment -
1. Loosen the hood mounting bolts and then adjust the hood by moving it so that
clearance is equal on all the sides.
A B
C D
2. Turn the hood bumpers to adjust the height of hood.

3. Loosen the hood latch mounting bolts and move the hood, latch to adjust the
attachment between the hood latch and hood striker.
Clockwise direction of hood striker will increase the height of hood.

Body-13
Door Setting -
DOOR STRIKER STRICKER MOUNTING SCREW - LOOSEN DOOR LATCH
Door Setting - For Side doors:
1. Open the door and while closing it check whether striker is at the centre of latch.
If it is not at the centre of latch, striker will foul with top or bottom portion of latch.
Loosen the bolts of striker and move the striker up or down to remove the fouling.
2. Check whether door is over flush or under flush. If it is over flush move the striker
towards vehicle centre and check flushness. If it is under flush move the striker
away from vehicle centre and check flushness.
3. After above corrections are done tighten the striker mounting bolts with torque
value 25 N-m to 30 N-m
Door Setting - For Back door:
1. Open the door and while closing it check whether striker is at the centre of latch.
If it is not at the centre of latch, striker will foul with top or bottom portion of latch
or dovetail. Loosen the bolts of striker and move the striker up or down to remove
the fouling. Similarly loosen the bolts of dovetail and move the dovetail up or
down to remove the fouling.
2. Check whether door is over flush or under flush. If it is over flush move the striker
towards vehicle centre and check flushness. . If it is under flush move the striker
away from vehicle centre and check flushness.
3. After above corrections are done tighten the striker mounting bolts with torque
value 25 N-m to 30 N-m
1. Attach protection tape to the fender edges where the hinge is installed.
2. When the door is replaced, loosen hinge mounting bolts on
door side and adjust alignment of fender panel with front door panel.
3. Loosen door striker mounting screws to adjust the alignment of door
panel.

Body-14
Door Window Glass Adjustment -
Check that the door window glass runs smoothly in the door glass channel when the
glass is fully raised and lowered. If it doesn’t then adjust by following procedure –
1. Remove the door trim and water proof film.

2. Loosen the window sliding mechanism in glass winder and move the upper
attachment back and forward to adjust the tilt of glass.
3. Loosen the screws 1 & 2 [C] and adjust the front to back position of the glass.
4. Reverse the procedure for assembly.
A B
1 2
Always remove the locking clip by pressing it from inner side of the door
before removing the sealing film otherwise it could damage the sealing film
while removing it.

Body-15
Radiator bottom Shield & Front fascia/ grill – R&R
A
Removal Steps –
1. Remove radiator front grill add-on.
2. Remove both horns.
3. Remove bonnet lock and cable.
4. Remove radiator shield [A].
5. Remove grill addon assembly.
6. Remove radiator upper LH & RH
brackets [C].
7. Remove Horns, bonnet lock assy.
Refer illustrations – Remove 8. Remove radiator front grill bracket.
three mounting bolts [A]fitted on
shield to front cross member and
B
adjacent member to remove
radiator bottom shield.
Front fascia assembly

Body-16
Instrument Cluster - R&R
1. All four mountings of cluster has to be tightened with IP

2. Speedo ratio of cluster to be verified
3. Important warning indicators need to be checked for correct operation
4. Connectors with positive lock are provided fitment need to be ensured.
5. Odometer can be reset to zero only once when counter is less than or equal to
50 KMs.
6. Cluster shall not be removed / connected in Ignition ON / vehicle running
condition.
7. Correct ground connection for cluster at Battery –ve post need to be ensured.
8. AC meter can not be reset to zero.

Body-17
Instrument Panel - R&R
A B
1. Remove Steering wheel

2. Remove Shroud upper and shroud lower and then remove combination switch.
3. Remove cluster hood and then remove Instrument cluster.
4. Remove center bezel and then remove HVAC control panel and audio player or
bin structure (based on the variant).
5. Remove driver panel.
6. Disconnect all the electrical connectors for fuel lid, side view mirrors, head light
beam, and leveling mechanism switch.
7. Remove LH fuse flap and remove the glove box damper connection from CCB
bracket. (For M6, E6 and E8 variant.)
8. Remove the glove box LH-RH down stoppers, remove the glove box light
connection (based on the variant), drop down the glove box, remove the IP
mounting behind the glove box and lock the glove box again.
9. Remove the center hood and disconnect electrical connections of clock or DIS
(based on the variant)
10. Remove the electrical connections of Hazard switch.
11. Remove the weather strip running along ‘A’ Pillar.
12. Remove both sides ‘A’ Pillar upper trim.
13. Remove Instrument Panel by loosening all the bolts.

Body-18
Floor Bezel - R&R
Floor Bezel Mountings
1. Remove gear shift lever knob.

2. Remove leather cover around the shift lever.
3. Remove the floor bezel by loosening of three mounting bolts.
4. Disconnect the accessory plug connector and remove the plug.
5. For Refitment follow the above mentioned process in the reverse order.

Body-19
Front Bumper - R&R
A
1. Remove socket connections on front fog lamp.

2. Remove registration plate.
3. Remove push pins fitted on the bottom side of front bumper.
4. Remove 4 mounting bolts on front bumper.
Check bumper mounting area for crack/ worn out.

Never over tighten the mounting screws, it will cause damage.

Body-20
Rear bumper - R&R
A
1. Remove the push pins on upper & bottom side of Rear Bumper [A].
2. Pull the cover plates on rear bumper upper mounting bolts [B]
3. Remove rear fog lamps and its connectors.
4. Remove the upper mounting bolts fitted inside cover plate.
5. Reverse the procedure for assembling of Rear bumper.
Check bumper mounting area for crack/ worn out.

Never over tighten the mounting screws, it will cause damage.
Body-21
Plenum Appliqué - R&R
1. First remove the front windshield wipers.

2. Remove the weather strip above plenum appliqué.
3. Remove the appliqué/ upper part.
4. Remove the wiper mechanism from the bottom appliqué.
5. Remove windshield washer pipe line.
6. Remove the bottom part/ plenum by removing its mounting bolt and push pins.
B
WIPER MOTOR & LINKAGE

Body-22
Windshield Washer Tank - R&R Front
Refer illustrations shown A and B.
1. Remove vehicle left side fender assembly.

2. Remove socket connector on washer motor.
3. Remove washer tank by removing its mounting bolts.
4. Drain the water and remove washer motor.
• Check and ensure for no water leakage through the joints and hose.
• Check for free flow from washer jets. Correct if required.
• Check direction of water jet, adjust if required.

Body-23
Rear Door Glass Washer Tank - R&R
Refer illustrations shown [A] [B] [C] & [D]. A & B views are showing windshield washer
tank and water line inside the tail gate. It is vertical cut section of Rear door. Photos in
[C] & [D] are showing rear door trim, location of Rear windscreen washer tank.
1. Remove washer tank pad fitted on rear door trim.

2. Remove tail gate door trim.
3. Remove socket connector on rear windshield washer motor.
4. Remove washer tank by removing tank mounting bolts.
5. Drain the water from washer tank.
6. Remove washer motor.
• Check and ensure for no water leakage through the joints and hose.
• Check for free flow from washer jet. Correct if required.
• Check direction of water jet, adjust if required.

Body-24
Roof Lining – R&R
Rear AC Vent
Reading Lamp
Sunvisor Location Grab Handles
Roof Light Locations
Removal of Roof Lining –

1. Remove all door weather strips and both sun visors.
2. Remove all seat belts and Grab handles.
3. Remove pillar ‘A’ ‘B; ‘C’ & ‘D’ upper trim.
4. Remove all connectors of Rear AC/ Roof Lights.
5. Pull out the roof lining from rear door side.
6. For assembly follow the above process in reverse.
Body-25
Flooring/ Carpet – R&R
(A) Flooring Front Removal -
Flooring Front – Removal
1. Remove front & middle row seats.

2. Remove dead pedal.
3. Remove centre console.
4. Remove the weather strip.
5. Remove the side foot trim.
6. Remove the floor console.
7. For assembly follow the above mentioned.
(B) Flooring Rear Removal -
B Flooring Rear – Removal
1. Remove 3rd row seat.

2. Remove the LH & RH side
Rear Quarter trims.
3. Remove the rear flooring.
4. For assembly follow the
above mentioned
procedure in the reverse
order.

Body-26
Windshield Glass Removal Procedure –
1. In order to protect the body, (paint surface) apply cloth tape to all the body
areas around the installed windshield glass.
2. Use the proper tool to remove the windshield glass.
3. Make mating marks on the windshield glass and body.
4. Using insertion tool, make a hole in the windshield glass adhesive.
5. Pass cutting wire from the inside of the vehicle through the hole.
6. The first person places the insertion tool [1] on the cement bead, from inside
the vehicle at approximately 350 mm from where the wire passes through.
7. The second person pulls the pulling handle [2] from outside the vehicle towards
the first person’s tool.
8. Repeat this operation until the cement bead has been completely cut.
A B
Do not let the cutting wire touch the edge of the windshield glass.
Be careful not to remove more adhesive than is necessary.
If the paint surface is damaged, repair the damaged area with
repair paint or anti-rust agent.
Do not touch any surface that has been cleaned.
9. When reusing the glass, remove the adhesive and window spacer chips still
adhering to the window glass, and clean with isopropyl alcohol.
10. Clean the body side in the same way.

Body-27
Windshield Glass Reusing/ Refitting Procedure:
1. Check there are no faults or cracks on the windscreen glass.
2. Clean the adhesion surface with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry. Cut off the
residual adhesive until the thickness is in between 1mm to 2mm.
Once the residual bead is ready, never clean it by blowing air or with
isopropyl alcohol.
3. Fit the beading (according to the vehicle).

4. Carry out a trial fixing of windscreen glass and mark the position of glass with
respect to body with masking tape.
5. Apply sufficient primer evenly to the adhesion surface (specified position) so
that there is no patchiness.
6. After application, let it dry for 10 minutes
Adhesive application around the inside edge of the glass
7. Apply the adhesive evenly all the way around the inside edge of the glass.
Refer illustration [A].
8. Finish the application of the adhesive bead with an overlap of 50 mm.
Refer illustration [B]

Body-28
C
9. Fix the glass to body with reference of masking tape. Refer illustration [C].
10. After applying the adhesive, lightly press the windshield glass evenly so that it
adheres completely (Refer to the product sheet for drive away/ curing time).
11. After removing any adhesive that is sticking out or adhering to the body or
glass with a spatula etc. clean off with isopropyl alcohol.
Carry out a shower test to check that no water will leak through.

Body-29
Windshield Glass Replace with New - procedure:
1. Clean off any dirt adhering to the adhesion surface with isopropyl alcohol and let
it dry.
2. Fit the beading (according to the vehicle).
3. Carry out a trial fixing of windscreen glass and mark the position of glass with
respect to body with masking tape.
4. Apply sufficient primer evenly to the adhesion surface (specified position) so that
there is no patchiness.
5. After application, let it dry for 10 minutes.
6. Apply the adhesive evenly all the way around the inside edge of the glass. Refer
illustration shown.
7. Fix the glass to body with reference of masking tape.
8. After applying the adhesive, lightly press the windshield glass evenly so that it
adheres completely (Refer to the product sheet for drive away/curing time).
9. After removing any adhesive that is sticking out or adhering to the body or glass
with a spatula etc. clean off with isopropyl alcohol.
10. Carry out a shower test to check that no water will leak through.

Body-30
Windshield Glass Installation Procedure on Repaired body:
Before painting/ Pre activity:
1. Clean the adhesion surface with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry.
2. Apply metal primmer on bare panel (if the damage is greater than 3mm).
3. Allow a minimum of 30 minutes of curing time.
4. Before painting protect the bonding area with masking tape (Never apply clear
coat on masked area).
After Painting/ Post activity:
5. Remove the masking tape.

6. Clean the bonding area with isopropyl alcohol.
7. Make the residual bead within the thickness of 1mm to 2mm.
8. Apply primer to the bonding surface and leave it for curing for 10minutes.
9. Install the windshield clips.
10. Apply windscreen sealant on the window (Refer to windscreen sealant
application procedure on the glass).
11. Bond the window on the frame with the help of suction cups.
The drive away time or curing time varies according to the sealant
being used. Please refer to the product sheet before application.
12. Carry out a shower test to check that no water will leak through.

Body-31
Headlight Bulb Removal and Refitment –
Refer illustrations for mounting screw locations of Head Lamp assembly.

1. Headlight bulb can be removed without removing the assembly.
2. Ensure that the ignition is in OFF condition.
3. Remove the rear dust cover from the headlight.
4. Remove the bulb assembly with connector from the headlight by unlocking the
wire clamp.
5. Detach the bulb assembly from the wiring connector near to the headlight.
6. Insert the connector into the new bulb assembly (of same wattage), and follow
the reverse procedure to assemble the bulb assembly into the headlight.
7. Clamp the bulb assembly by wire clamp properly.
Parking Light – R&R

1. Remove the upper wiring connector.
2. Turn the bulb assembly into anti-clockwise direction to remove it from head light
assembly.
3. Insert the new bulb assembly and turn it in clock wise direction to fit it properly.
4. Reconnect the wiring connector.
5. Turn the bulb holder in anticlockwise direction in order to remove bulb holder.
6. Pull out the bulb holder from head light assembly.
7. Replace the burned bulb with the new bulb of same wattage.
8. Assemble back the bulb and holder assembly in to the headlamp.
9. Turn the bulb holder clockwise to lock it.
10. Reassemble the bulb and holder assembly back to the light assembly in the
respective slot.
11. Turn the bulb holder clockwise to lock it.

Body-32
Rear parking/ turn indicators/ tail lights - R&R
A B
1. Remove the inspection cover from passenger compartment side.

2. Turn the respective bulb holder assembly in anticlockwise direction to remove it
from light assembly.
3. Replace the bulb in holder.
4. While removing tail lamp assembly, remove 2 nos. mountings screws and
disconnect the wiring connectors. Refer above sketch [B]

Body-33
Side Repeaters - R&R
1. Use a small slotted screw driver as a tool at the front side of light assembly as a
tool to remove it from the vehicle body panel.
2. Pull out the bulb holder from the lens.
3. Replace the burnt bulb with a new one.
4. Insert the bulb holder back to the lens.

Body-34
High mounted stop lamp - R&R

1. Take out the light (HMSL) assembly by loosening the mounting screws located at
the top of rear spoiler.
2. Disassemble the light assembly and take off the bulb holder strip by loosening
the screws on the back of the light assembly.
3. Replace with the bulb of same rating.
4. Keep the hook at the rear side first and press the front side of the lens, to
assemble it back on the vehicle body.
5. Re-assemble the light assembly and follow the reverse procedure to fit the light
back on the rear spoiler.

Body-35
License plate lamp - R&R

1. Remove the lamp assembly
from the tail door by loosening
the mounting screws.
2. Dismantle the lamp lens, outer
cover & reflector by loosening
the screws.
3. Replace the bulb with the same
rating and type.
4. Reassemble the lamp
assembly and follow the
reverse procedure to fit the
light back to tail door.

Body-36
Tightening Torque -
Description Torque Value - Nm
Door striker fitment FRT RH 28 + 7
Door striker fitment FRT LH 28 + 7
Door striker fitment RR RH 28 + 7
Door striker fitment RR LH 28 + 7
Door striker fitment Tail Door 28 + 7
Hood Latch Fitment 10 + 2
1st Row Seat Belt fitment lower end 37.5 + 5
1st Row Seat Belt fitment upper end 37.5 + 5
2nd Row Seat Belt fitment lower end 37.5 + 5
2nd Row Seat Belt fitment upper end 37.5 + 5
3rd Row Seat Belt fitment lower end 37.5 + 5
3rd Row Seat Belt fitment lower end 37.5 + 5
Intermediate seat fitment(1/3) 47.5 + 7.5
Intermediate seat fitment(2/3) 47.5 + 7.5
Door check arm fitment RR/FRT RH/LH 22 + 3 - M8
4.5 + 1.5 – M6
Back door dove tail male fitment 6.5 + 1.5
Back door dove tail female fitment 11 + 1
Door outer handle fitment all 1.3 + 0.5
Filler neck plate fitment on body 7+1
Front console mounting bracket 10.4 + 2
Front bumper side bracket Fitment 4.5 + 0.5
Rear door glass run channel loose fitment 10 + 2
Instrument panel mounting 4 + 0.5
Front console mounting bracket RR 25 + 5
Fuel lid cover actuator fitment 3.5 + 0.5
Sunvisor fitment(LH&RH) & Holding bkt. 4.5 + 0.5
Grab handle fitment FRT LH/RH 6.5 + 1.5
Grab handle fitment RR LH/RH 6.5 + 1.5
Grab handle fitment LH Third row 6.5 + 1.5
Tool kit mounting bracket fitment 10.4 + 2
Footrest clutch fitment on carpet 4.5 + 0.5
Tail lamp fitment LH /RH 3 + 0.5
High mounted stop lamp fitment 4.5 + 0.5
Front Splash shield 1st part 4.5 + 0.5
Rear splash shield fitment 4.5 + 0.5
Butterfly window fitment LH/RH 6+1
RD bottle to evaporator pipe 10 + 2
Rear glass washer bottle fitment 6.5 + 0.5
Bracket support arm rest fitment front 4.5 + 0.5
LH/RH
Arm rest cover with power window switch 4.5 + 0.5
fitment
Body-37
Arm rest cover with power window switch 4.5 + 0.5
fitment Rear
Cover door release fitment back door 2.5 + 0.5
Grill loose mounting on body 2.5 + 0.5
Rear bumper side brackets fitment 4.5 + 0.5
Foot step fitment RR bumper 22 + 3
Door glass fitment Front/ Rear door 1.9 + 0.25
LH/RH
Fitment of entry assist cup on quarter trim 4.5 + 0.5
panel
RQT fitment 4.5 + 0.5
Entry access cover fitment on RQT 4.5 + 0.5
Fuel tank fitment on chassis 25 + 5
Tank unit fitment on Fuel tank (Fuel 6 + 0.5
strainer & Gauge assy.)
Hose fuel tank to connection pipe 4.5 + 0.5
Hose fuel tank beck fitment with tank 4.5 + 0.5
Fitment of front side 4-way cross to frame 8+2
Connection pipe with hose fuel tank 10 + 1
fitment on chassis
Console assembly fitment on body 3+1
Body bolts on chassis fitment LH side 65 + 7
Body bolts on chassis fitment RH side 65 + 7
Driver seat fitment 47.5 + 7.5
Co driver seat fitment 47.5 + 7.5
Front bumper fitment 4.5 + 0.5
Parking brake cable clipping on body 15 + 2
RR wheel HSG Front side splash shield 4.5 + 0.5
fitment
Front bumper holding bracket fitment on 12.5 + 2.5
front panel( metallic bracket)
Gear shift dust shield fitment on body 3 + 0.5
Parking brake front cable connection with 8+2
parking brake lever (socket length 15
mm)
Rear bumper fascia fitment (metallic 4.5 + 0.5
bracket)
Rear parking brake cable connection to 8+2
front cable

Chassis -1
Chassis

Chassis -2
Contents
Body Mountings – R&R
Chassis Layout and Dimensions
Front Suspension Mounting Bracket Dimension - Layout
Spare Wheel Winch – R&R
Torque Values

Chassis -3
BODY MOUNTINGS – R & R

– Nm.
Body mtg. bolts 65 + 05 Nm.

Chassis -4
NOTE:
• Body mounts/ triggers named LH2, LH3,
LH4 & RH2, RH3, and RH4 are all similar.
• These mounts are different than front one.
• Refer sketch shown for correct fitment of
body mounts.
NOTE:
• Body mounts/ triggers on front both are
here shown as LH1 & RH1.
• Front mounts are different than rear all.
• Refer sketch shown for correct fitment of
body mounts.

Chassis -5
CHASSIS DIAMENSION - LAYOUT

The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are
manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of © 2009 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Chassis -6
FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNTING BRACKET DIMENSION - LAYOUT

Chassis -7
SPARE WHEEL WINCH – R&R

– Nm.
Spare wheel winch nuts 50 + - 10 Nm.
Removal Steps –
Remove spare wheel.

Remove cable bracket.
Remove winch assembly by removing its mounting nuts.
Assembly procedure is reverse to the removal, except any special note is given.

Chassis -8
Torque Values
Location Torque Nm (lbf-ft)
UCA mtg. bolt on frame. 90 ± 10 Nm

LCA mtg. bolt on frame. 200 ± 20 Nm.
LCA ball joints to LCA 45 ±5 Nm.
LCA ball joint nut 140 ± 20 Nm
Stab bar mtg. bolt on frame. 40 ± 10 Nm
Link mtg. bolts on knuckle & Stab bar 40 ± 10 Nm
Shock absorber upper mtg. bolt on chassis 40 ± 5 Nm
Shock absorber Front mtg. bolt on LCA 120 ± 10 Nm.
Wheel Nut 94 Nm
Hub lock nut 400 Nm
Upper Link mtg. bolt 150 ± 10 Nm.
Pan hard rod mtg. bolt 150 ± 10 Nm.
Shock absorber Rear mtg. bolt 45 ±5 Nm.

Rear Axle-1
Rear Axle

The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the
manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of whole of the present document,
are prohibited without the prior written consent of © 2009 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Rear Axle-2
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the axle
In Vehicle Adjustment & Repair
Rear axle Overhaul
Specification
Special Tools
Lubricants

Rear Axle-3
Description
The rear axle is of the hypoid, semi-floating type using shim adjustment to obtain
bearing pre-loads. The differential case with Crown wheel and the drive pinion are
mounted in opposed taper roller bearing in one-piece rear axle carrier.
The rear axle pinion receives its power from the engine through the Transmission and
driveshaft. The drive pinion rotates the differential case through the engagement with
the crown wheel, which is bolted, to the differential case flange. Inside the differential
cages are four differential pinions mounted on the differential pinion shaft which is
splined to the housing. These gears are engaged with the side gears, to which the axle
shafts are splined. Therefore as the differential housing turns, it rotates the axle shaft
and the rear wheel. When it is necessary for one wheel to rotate faster than the other is,
the faster turning gear causes the pinion to roll on slower turning gear to allow
differential action between the two axle shafts.
The axle shafts are held in the housing by the bearings and the retainers at the housing
outer end. Axle shaft endplay is pre set and not adjustable. The hub bearings are
prepackaged for life.
L All operations other than the removal of the axle shafts and the replacement of
the wheel bearing oil seal should be carried out with the axle removed from the
vehicle.
Certain rear axle and driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the engine,
transmission, tyres and other parts of the Vehicle. For this reason be sure that the
cause of the trouble is in the rear axle before adjusting, repairing or replacing any of the
axle parts.
Rear Axle Noise Diagnosis –
Basic characteristics in a rear axle are more difficult to diagnose and repair than
mechanical failures. Slight axle noise heard only at certain speed or under particular
conditions must be considered normal. Axle noise tend to peak or be more pronounced
at particular speeds and the noise is in now way a sign of the trouble in the vehicle.
Where noise is present in objectionable form (Loud and/ or at all speeds) the first effort
should be to isolate the noise.
Isolation of noise in any one unit requires care and experience and an attempt to
eliminate a slight noise may baffle even the most experienced mechanic/ technician.

Rear Axle-4
Axle noise fall into two basic categories: gear noise and/ or bearing noise.
Axle Noise Gear Noise

Bearing Noise
Others
Gear Noise –
The most important characteristic of the gear noise is that it is usually sensitive to
accelerator position. E.g. noise audible under drive condition will often disappear under
coast condition (i.e. driving in neutral with the clutch released and engine running) at the
same vehicle speed and vice versa.
Axle gear noise whine will always occur at the same road speed and throttle setting i.e.
drive or coast (i.e. driving in neutral with the clutch released and engine running). Gear
whine is usually a fairly high pitched pure tone as opposed to a low-pitched rumble
caused by a spalled bearing.
Some noises, which can be confused with axle gear whine, are: -
…. Whine from an engine component; this will always occur at the same engine speed
irrespective of which transmission gear is used
…. Whine from an indirect Transmission gear (e.g. 5th gear on some vehicles produces
a whine comparable with axle whine) however this will disappear when the direct
transmission ratio is selected.
…. Whine from tyres or wind noise from a rack or aerial. These noise generally occur
over a very broad speed range and do not change with driving mode i.e. drive or coast
(i.e. driving in neutral with the clutch released and engine running)
Remember
Before diagnosing the whine as axle gear noise, ensure that the whine:
(a) Occurs in direct transmission ratio (4th gear)
(b) Changes with throttle/ accelerator variations (drive and coast) ( i.e. driving in neutral
with the clutch released and engine running)
(c) Always occur at the same road speed and not engine speed,
(d) Occurs over a limited vehicle speed. (This can vary over a wide band should the
axle be in extremely bad condition.)
Bearing Noise –

Rear Axle-5
Bearing noise is inclined to be less throttle sensitive than gear noise and frequently
occurs over a wide speed range. Bad cases of faulty bearings can, in fact be detected
from walking speed, building up in pitch as speed increases and is not directly affected
by changing from drive to coast (i.e. driving in neutral with the clutch released and
engine running) and visa versa
(a) Rear wheel bearing noise tends to be low pitched grumble, which can normally be
detected and confirmed when driving on a smooth road at constant speed, with the
noise most audible while swerving sharply from left to right. If the noise increases or
decreases as the car is swerved, it is probable that a wheel bearing is faulty. Driving
close to a wall or a curb at a suitable speed can carry out a further check for wheel
bearing noise.
(b) Differential bearing noise is usually similar to in pitch to wheel bearing noise but is
not affected by the swerve check referred to previously.
(c) Pinion bearing noise is normally at a higher pitch than wheel or differential bearings
and is often slightly sensitive to throttle position, although not to the same extent as
gear noise.
Other:
1. A further condition, which can exist, is due to a worn bearing that allows the gear set
to move out of its correct mesh cause gear noise. This condition is usually throttle
sensitive, with the noise frequently disappearing on a “drive” condition.
Any amount of or endplay in either the pinion bearings or differential carrier bearings
are detrimental to the gears and bearings and will cause axle noise.
2. A high spot sometimes occur on either the ring gear or the drive pinion; this shows
up as a ticking or light knocking noise over a restricted range of throttle position. The
frequency of the noise will indicate whether the high spot is on the pinion (drive shaft
frequency) or on the ring gear. The severity of the noise indicates the size of the
defect. A light “tick “ is seldom detrimental and usually occurs in new axle and will
normally disappears once the axle has been run in.
3. Louder noise usually indicate a more serious defect and a knock occurring in an axle
which was previously free from this type of noise must always be investigated.
Care of the axle –
The lubricant level should be checked every 10000 Kms with the vehicle unladen and in
a level ground. The lubricant level should be at the lower edge of the filler plug. Use
lubricant meeting oils specification of GL 5 and viscosity of SAE 90 .The brand names
have been specified in the lubricant section.

Rear Axle-6
Note: Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedure / guidelines is the

reverse of the disassembly procedure
IN VEHCILE ADJUSTEMENT & REPAIR –
The works in axle that can be done without removing from the vehicle are:
Replacement of pinion seal
Backlash adjustment
Not recommended to be done on vehicle.
The moment the nut is opened, it is essential that the collaposible spacer should be
replaced. For that the completed differential assembly should be dismantled and
assembled.
Backlash adjustment.
The backlash adjustment should not be done on the vehicle.
Since it is a Banjo axle hence the CWP can not be accessed without removing the drive
head.
Rear axle Overhaul –
Comprises of the following major steps
1. Removal & Refitment of the axle from the vehicle.
2. Removal of the Refitment of the hub and the brake carrier and oil seal.
3. Removal of the differential assembly.
4. Pinion height adjustment and preloading of pinion bearings
5. Assembly of the crown wheel.

Rear Axle-7
1) Removal & Refitment of the rear axle shaft & hub

Rear Axle-8

Rear Axle-9
Removal of the centre assembly.

Rear Axle-10
Dismantling the Differential Assembly
Remove the Crown bearing caps after loosening the bolts.

The LH cap is having the mark L, while the RH is having R.
Fit the expander and expand the carrier (the expansion limit is 0.50 mm)
Use the Tommy bar to pull out the differential only after expanding.

Rear Axle-11
After opening the lock strap, remove the ring gear bolts.
Using a plastic mallet remove the ring gear

from the differential case assembly.
The differential bearings can be removed using the special tool and the adaptor ring.
Tap out the lock pin.

Rear Axle-12
Tap out the pinion shaft.
Using the special tool, lock the pinion flange

and also open the pinion nut.
Using a plastic mallet, remove the pinion

Rear Axle-13
Pinion oil seal removal
Removal of the pinion bearings outer cups ( inner & outer)
Use the smaller
adaptor to remove
the outer cup
Use the bigger
adaptor to remove
the inner cup

Rear Axle-14
Adaptor- remove pinion To remove pinion inner
inner cup bearing cup
Adaptor- remove pinion To remove pinion outer

outer cup bearing cup

Rear Axle-15
Pinion Bearing Removal
Adoptor- remove pinion To remove pinion inner

inner bearing bearing

Rear Axle-16
Axle shaft Bearing Removal
Drill Machine
Bearing
retainer
Axle shaft
bearing
Cutting Chisel
Bearing Retainer
Pull out the axle shaft bearing

Repair Manual
M MAN-00052
M
Xylo mEa
Eagle Jan 2009/Rev
2 1
Rear Axle-17
Puller – axle shafft bearing To rem move thee axle

shaft be
earing.
All copyrights re
eserved by
The repair methodss given by the manufactu urer in this document are based on the technical specifications
s current at the
t time of release. The methods
m may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the
manufacturer in the
e production of the variou
us component units and accessories
a from which the
t vehicles are manufac ctured. The reproduction, translation, transmission
n, in part of whole of the present document,
are prohibited witho

out the prior written conssent of © 2009 Mahiindra & Mahindraa Ltd.
Rear Axle-18
2) Axle Assembly :
Axle shaft assembly

Pinion assembly
Differential assembly
Crown assembly including the preloading and Backlash setting.
Axle shaft assembly

Bearing and retainer installation.
Fitting the On board oil seal in the axle tube.
Put Inboard
oil seal on
Installer


Rear Axle-19
Locate installer along
with oil seal in
Banjo beam flange & then
press it
with the help of mallet
Dolly pressing T/F inboard To press In board Oil seal

oil seal in beam Flange

Repair Manual
M MAN-00052
M
Xylo mEa
Eagle Jan 2009/Rev
2 1
Rear Axle-20
LINE DIA
AGRAM SH
HOWING T
THE PINION
N AND CRO
OWN ADJU
USTEMENT
T

A. Pinio
on height s
setting
B. Pinio
on preloading P
Pinion height setting

2. Using a depth
h
1.Without using g any
measuuring gaugge
gaugee (limitations apply,
look at
a the deta ails in the
write up)
Set the height

using the MST
581 & MST 582
Look at the old

o pinion
Z value
v (etch
hed on top
facce) and the
e new
pin
nion Z value. For the
shim value reefer to the
chaart
All copyrights re
eserved by
The repair methodss given by the manufactu urer in this document are based on the technical specifications
s current at the
t time of release. The methods
m may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the
manufacturer in the
e production of the variou
us component units and accessories
a from which the
t vehicles are manufac ctured. The reproduction, translation, transmission
n, in part of whole of the present document,
are prohibited witho

out the prior written conssent of © 2009 Mahiindra & Mahindraa Ltd.
Rear Axle-21
A 1. Without using any special tools.
This procedure can only be used when only the Crown wheel & pinion is being
replaced.
In case the bearings are also replaced then the use of gauge method is recommended.
Pinion offset
CP Assly. Sr. No.

Rear Axle-22
A 2. Pinion positon pinion shim selection using the special tool.
Dial Gauge
Pinion Height Setting
Gauge
Master

Rear Axle-23
If the Pinion bearings are replaced then the outer cups have to be replaced.
Use Bigger
Adapter to
Press Inner
Cup

Use Smaller Adapter
to Press Outer Cup

Rear Axle-24
Pinion Assembly
Bearing Installation
along with
Selected shim
Pinion oil seal

Installation
Dolly pressing pinion oil To press pinion oil seal

seal.

Rear Axle-25
Torque
298 to 500 NM
After fitting the spacer in between the bearing, torque the pinion nut.
Pinion Torque
To Rotate:
1.8 to 2.6 NM

Rear Axle-26
Differential Case Assembly – Backlash & preloading Shim selection
Step 1: Measure the play without the ring gear.
Step 2: Assemble the ring gear on the Diff case assembly and lock strap bending.

Rear Axle-27
Step 3: Measure the play along with the ring gear.

Rear Axle-28
Step 4: Calculate the shims for preloading and backlash adjustment.
Side Bearing Installation
Dolly pressing diff case To press diff case

bearings. bearings.

Rear Axle-29
Expander installation:
Expander
Installation Limit:
0.50 mm
Differential case assembly:

Torque:
75 to 95 Nm

Rear Axle-30
Check the CWP backlash and the tooth contact.
Check the tooth contact.

Rear Axle-31
Installation of the CWP assembly on the banjo axle.
Apply Anabond A 636 Torque is 23 to 29 Nm
OR 3M Sealant

Rear Axle-32
Specifications –

Semi floating single reduction without diff. lock
mEagle
No of teeth on crown N1
No of teeth on pinion
N2 4.1
Axle reduction ratio
N1/N2 43
10
4.3

Crown-pinion backlash 0.12 to 0.20 mm
Maximum variation of
backlash in a crown
Run out of the ring gear 0.15 mm ( 0.006”)

/ crown wheel
Hub end play 0.025 to 0.25 mm

Rear Axle-33
Hub rotational torque Not applicable
Toe Heel Check for correct tooth Check on both the driving &
contact on both the reverse flank. This contact is
forward and reverse for checking without load.
direction
6 mm aprox
Location Torque in Nm ( Lbft)

Carrier Housing Mounting Screw 23-29 Nm
Carrier Housing Mounting Nut 23-29 Nm
Filler Plug 24 - 34 Nm
Drain Plug 24 - 34 Nm
Diff Bearing Cap Bolt 75 - 95 Nm
Brake Backing Plate Nut 37 - 55 Nm
Ring Gear Bolt 129 - 142 Nm
Drive Pinion Nut 298 - 500 Nm
Breather 7 - 12 Nm
Pinion Torque To Rotate 1.8 - 2.6 Nm
Special Tools --

Rear Axle-34

Rear Axle-35

Rear Axle-36
Description / Part No. / Sketch Usage View
Recommended Lubricants –
Specification: GL 5; SAE 90
Brands

Rear Axle-37
Maximile : Maximile DO
Recommended
Other options
IOC SERVOGEAR HP 90
HP HP GEAR OIL XP 90
BPCL - BHARAT SPIROL HD 90
BHARAT SHELL - SPIRAX HD 90
CHEMOLEUMS - CHEMOLEUMS TURBO GL5 SAE 90
GULF MP GO 90
CALTEX THUBAN GL5-90
VEEDOL VEEDOL MULTI GEAR 90 HD
CASTROL - CASTROL HYPOY B 90
Sealant –
Differential cover sealant : Loctite 587 / Gasket

Wheel & Tyres-1
Wheels & Tyres
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Removal & Refitment of the tyre

Wheel & Tyres-2
Description
The tyres fitted in Xylo are radial tubeless tyres and with a suitable wheel disc.
In the tyre 215/75 R 15 - The 215 is the nominal section width of the tyre in mm at the
designated air pressure and load. The / 75 is the nominal aspect ratio of the tyre(section
height/section width). 15 is the rim diameter (inches).
The tyres play a very important and vital role in the vehicle handling and ride
characteristic. Hence it is advised that any change not as per the specification have to
be done with caution.
The air pressure maintained has a direct influence on the fuel average obtained, braking
and also on ride characteristic. Hence it is imperative that the tyre pressure be
maintained as per specification. The tyre specified with the specified air pressure gives
these tyres a safe speed of
180 Km/hr
Rapid wear at Under Inflation 9 Maintain the correct

Shoulder Lack of rotation tyre pressure.
Excessive cornering. 9 Do the tyre rotation.
Rapid wear at Over inflation 9 Maintain the correct

centre tyre pressure.
Cracked Treads Under Inflation 9 Maintain the correct

tyre pressure.
One Edge Wear Check and adjust:

9 Hub end play
9 Camber to be checked
and adjusted.
Excessive camber
Excessive cornering

Wheel & Tyres-3
Feathered Edge Incorrect Toe In 9 Check & correct Toe

Wear No tyre rotation. In
9 Check the chassis
bend
9 If tyre rotation not
carried out as per
schedule. Do the tyre
rotation.
Bald Spots Unbalanced tyre 9 Balance the tyres.

Out of round brake drums 9 Check the brake drum
in rear. roundness.
Faulty wheel bearings. 9 Check jammed wheel
Sudden braking. cylinder/ calipers.
9 Check the wheel
bearings.
9 Avoid driving with
sudden brake locking.
Wavy / Scalloped Lack of rotation or 9 Tyre rotation.

wear Worn or Out of 9 Check & replace the
Alignment suspension
Suspension components.
Side Wall crack radial/ Kerb damage

diagonal Stone hit
Side wall crack Run Flat

circumferential / ( It is more obvious
tyre bulging from inside )

Wheel & Tyres-4
Care of the system –
The tyre is one of the most abused components hence maintaining the tyre is of utmost
importance.
The recommended tyre pressures are given below:
The tyre pressure should be checked once in a fortnight. (Once a week during
summers). The tyre pressures should always be checked & corrected in cold condition.
The valve should be always covered with the valve cover. An opened valve can have the
valve needle stuck in a partial position causing the tyre to bleed during operation.
The tyre pressure specified can cater to continuous high-speed performance. Hence it is
not advisable to increase the tyre pressure before going on a high speed run.
The practice of keeping the tyre pressure lower in summer is actually detrimental to the
tyre. To understand that let us examine what happens
– If lower pressure is kept. Then the sidewall flexing is going to be more hence the heat
generation will also be higher which will result in a faster increase in tyre pressure. So
the wear rate is going to be higher.
Similarly the practice of bleeding the tyre pressure to reduce the pressure after a long
run can cause the sidewall to crack and in a worst scenario sidewall bulging.
Before going on a long drive it is a good practice to remove the stones/pebbles trapped
in the treads. The probability of a puncture due to stone trapped and digging through the
crown once it gets heated up is reduced.
It should also be kept in mind that a radial tyre with higher pressure is more prone to
burst under impact from stone at high speed or kerb impact. Lower air pressure results
in higher sidewall flexing and drastically increases the chance of sidewall damage / cut
in bad roads.
Wheel balancing should be done at least every 20,000 Kms. It is compulsory to do a

balancing of the wheel after any puncture.
The tyre rotation should be carried out every 10,000 Kms.
Wheel alignment is recommended to be done every 40,000 KMs.However if any

indications of abnormal wear then please check the alignment.
In case of abnormal tyre wear refer to the Trouble shooting section and take the
corrective action suggested.
The grooves in the tyre are used to pump out the water between the road and the tyre.
In case the water is not pumped out the tyre will ride on water. Since the coefficient of
friction of water is very low that will result a sliding action. Obviously the amount of water
which the tyre can pump out between the ground and the tyre will depend on the depth
of the groove which is acting as a channel. The tyre manufacturers recommend that a
minimum tread depth of 1.6 mm should be present.

Wheel & Tyres-5
Once the tread depth is less than 1.6 mm it is recommended to replace the tyres. I t is
not advisable to retread the tyre.
Any kind of lubricant on the tyre is detrimental as it promotes degradation of rubber and
also increases the chance of hardening.
Normally this happens when a mechanics rubs the spare oil or grease on to the sidewall
of the tyre.
Tyre Rotation –
1. Check & ensure proper tyre pressure in all tyres.

2. Rotate (swap the positions) the wheels as shown in the diagram above
• Driver side rear goes to Driver side front position.

• Driver side front wheel goes to Co-Driver side rear position.
• Co-Driver side rear wheel goes to spare wheel position.
• Spare wheel goes to Co-Driver side front position.
• Co-Driver side front wheel goes to Driver side rear position.

Wheel & Tyres-6
Tyre Pressures
COLD TYRE INFLATION PRESSURE
TYRE SIZE 215/75 R15 100S
FRONT REAR
psi 35 35
Kg/cm. 2.4 2.4
sq.
COLD TYRE INFLATION PRESSURE
TYRE SIZE 215/75 R15 100S
FRONT REAR
psi 35 41
Kg/cm. 2.4 2.8
sq.
In case the vehicle reports for wheel wobbling then the sequence of balancing &
rotation should be as follows:
Important: Before going ahead with the procedure; do road tests and at that time:-
Please remember that the road shocks can come to the steering wheel while going over
rough or uneven patch. The important point is that after the road shock is over then it
should not continue to vibrate.

Wheel & Tyres-7
Preliminary Stage:
Mark each tyre assembly position with respect to the hub/ axle shaft.
Balance all the tyre and place it back it each wheel in the same position.
Now follow the sequence of Stage A, Stage B, Stage C. Road test after each stage:
Sequence of operations:
Road Test A Road test B Road test C Road test
If the stages of A, B, & C are done together then improvement may not be noticed.
In worst case scenario the problem may get aggravated.
Procedure for wheel balancing
Before dismounting the wheel Mark the position of the wheel & tyre assembly with
respect to the hub (uses any wheel mounting bolt as a reference and applies a paint
mark to hub with respect to disc + tyre.

Wheel & Tyres-8
In Car repairs –
The tyres should be removed and then only be attended for puncture or damage.
For removal of the tyre from the vehicle the jacking points are:
For 2WD Front- to be supported on the chassis, behind the lower arm just below the
first outrigger.
For the rear wheels: below the axle.
Never go under the vehicle when it is jacked up. This jack is meant for only raising
the wheel. For any under body work/inspection support the vehicle on vehicle
stands.
If the vehicle is run with severely under inflated tyres – the vehicle stability may be
affected. A run flat wheel can also damage the wheel disc- besides literally
shredding the tyre.
Tyre Rotation
1. Check & ensure tyre pressure at-
Unladen condition- Front :35 psi (2.4kg/cm2)

Rear :35 psi (2.4kg/cm2)

Wheel & Tyres-9
Laden condition – Front : 35 psi (2.4kg/cm2)
Rear : 41 psi(2.8 kg/cm2)
2. Rotate (swap the positions) the wheels as shown in the diagram above
• Driver side rear goes to Driver side front position.

• Driver side front wheel goes to Co-Driver side rear position.
• Co-Driver side rear wheel goes to spare wheel position.
• Spare wheel goes to Co-Driver side front position.
• Co-Driver side front wheel goes to Driver side rear position.
Removal & Refitment of the tyre –
It is recommended that the tyre removal and re-fitment on the wheel disc be done in a
tyre specialist shop where the tyre fitting machines are available. The advantage of the
machine over the conventional method is that the damage to the beading area is totally
avoided.
In absence of the machine; ensure that:
No sharp tools are inserted while removing the tyre.
No sharp tools/ screwdriver are used while fitting the tyre.
While refitting the tyre the use of powder between the tube & the tyre is recommended
It is recommended that the tyre be inflated to a pressure of 40 PSI. This will ensure that
the bead is locked in properly and also in centralizing.
Then later reduce the pressure to the recommended pressure.
Since the TPMS unit is in wheel rim hence it is critical that the procedure given below is
strictly followed. Failure to do so will result in sensor damage.

Wheel & Tyres-10
Removal & Refitment of the spare wheel from the vehicle –
Remove the covering on the rear

and using the wheel spanner lower
the spare wheel
Lower the wheel on to the ground and take

off the locating tang from the disc.
The fitment of the old tyre to the

spare wheel carrier is the reverse of the
above procedure
While fitting the tyre on to the axle

ensure that :
- The bolt holes in disc are not oblong.
- The threads of the bolt are not having dirt
– neither is there dirt/ mud in the nut.
(Generally while removing a wheel the nuts
are left in the ground collecting dirt/mud. It
is a better practice to keep the removed
nuts on vehicle.
While tightening the wheel nut tighten in

diagonally opposite order to each other.
Failure to do so can cause vibration of

the steering wheel at high speed.

Wheel & Tyres-11
Description Torque Nm(lb-ft)
Wheel nut torquing LH side 93.5 + 10.5Nm(68 lb-ft)
Wheel nut torquing RH side 93.5 + 10.5Nm(68 lb-ft)
Specification & Wear Data –

Description Value
Run out of the tyre- radial 1.5 mm
Run out of the tyre- lateral 1.5 mm
Unbalanced allowed- tyre Max. 1.8 Kgf
Minimum tread depth 1.6 mm


Mahindra XYLO MEagle Repair - Manual MAN 00052 Rev 1

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REPAIR MANUAL

TECHNICAL PUBLICATION CELL

Each section is further divided in to sub-sections –

• Description section gives an overview of the functioning of the system /aggregate.

Engine - 2.49 L mEagle

Engine Support Systems

Air Intake System

Emission Control System

Gear Box - NGT 530R- 2WD

Wheel & Tyres

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Care of the System

Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine.

Working principle of various sub systems of the Engine

Specifications & Wear Data

Lubricants & Sealants- Grades

List of the MST

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The forged connecting rod is connected to induction-hardened crankshaft. The small

The high pressure pump & camshaft are chain driven.

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Care of the System -

Accessory Belt: To be checked and adjusted at 60,000 & 80,000Kms. To be

Auto Tensioner: To be checked and adjust at 60,000 & 80,000Kms. To be replaced

Turbocharger: The engine is having an exhaust gas driven turbocharger. The

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Description Page Description Page

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Removal Steps – Assembly Procedure –

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Check Battery condition for –

Check the connections at –

Refer above illustration –

Removal Steps and additional check points for Battery:

1. Remove Battery terminals.

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Starter motor– R&R

Refer illustration shown above.

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Cooling Fan – Front View Cooling Fan – Rear View

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COOLING FAN FUNCTION – CHECK

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Refer above illustrations A & B.

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Water temperature sensor– R&R

Pre removal activity –

Post fitment activity –

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Refer above illustration –

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Refer illustrations shown –

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Power steering belt– Replace and Adjust Tension.

POWER STEERING BELT – REPLACE

Procedure for belt tensioning:

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Removal Steps – Assembly Procedure –

 Check the drive belts visually for any crack, fraying.

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Refer illustrations below.

Check the drive belts visually for any crack, fraying.

Replace washer while refitting alternator oil supply banjo.

Use recommended rust free if exhaust pipe bolts found jam.

High pressure fuel pipes to be replaced once it is removed.

Check the thermostat valve for no damage.

Remove gasket from mounting surface on cylinder head.

Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot.

Replace the manifold gaskets as and when opened.

Replace the exhaust manifold gaskets whenever it is opened.

Check FIP cover ‘O’ ring for damage, replace if required.