Article Wjpps 1464670947

WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES
Anjali et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

SJIF Impact Factor 6.041
Volume 5, Issue 6, 630-648 Review Article ISSN 2278 – 4357
A REVIEW ON NATURAL ADDITIVES USED IN COSMETIC

PREPARATIONS
Joshi Anjali* and Singh Nardev
Division of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Shri Guru Ram Rai institute of Technology and
Science, Patel Nagar, Dehradun-248001, Uttarakhand, India.
Article Received on ABSTRACT

11 Apri l2016,
The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as ancient as mankind and
Revised on 02 May 2016,
Accepted on 23 May 2016 civilization. Women and men are obsessed with looking beautiful. The
DOI: 10.20959/wjpps20166-6984
cosmetics are the utility product used extensively throughout the world
for maintaining & improving general appearance of face and other
*Corresponding Author parts of body e.g. mouth, hand, finger, hair etc. Cosmetics alone are
Joshi Anjali
not sufficient to take care of skin and body parts, it require association
Division of
of active ingredients and additives to check damage and ageing of skin.
Pharmaceutical Sciences,
Shri Guru Ram Rai So, they use various beauty products that have significant herbs and
institute of Technology additives to look charming and young. Indian herbs and its significance
and Science, Patel Nagar, are popular worldwide. An herbal cosmetic have growing demand in
Dehradun-248001,
the world market and is an invaluable gift of nature. Herbal
Uttarakhand, India.
formulations always have attracted considerable attention because of
their good activity and comparatively lesser or nil side effects with synthetic cosmetics.
Indian women have long used herbal plant such as Sandalwood and Turmeric for skin care,
Henna to colour the hair, palms and soles and natural oils to perfume their bodies. Not too
long ago, elaborate herbal beauty treatments were carried out in the royal palaces of India to
heighten sensual appeal and maintain general hygiene. The herbal cosmetics manufactured
and used commonly for daily purpose include herbal face wash, herbal conditioner, herbal
soap and herbal shampoo.
KEYWORDS: Herbal cosmetics, Skin care, Hair care, Herbal soaps, Herbal perfumes,
Miscellaneous additives.
www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 630

INTRODUCTION
The concept of beauty and cosmetics dates back to ancient mankind and civilization.
Generally herbal cosmetics are also referred to as natural cosmetics. Herbal cosmetics are
formulated, using different cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal
ingredients are used to cure various skin ailments. Plants are highly used for development of
new drug products for cosmeceuticals and pharmaceutical application. Herbal cosmetics are
the products in which herbs are used in crude or extract form.[1-2]
Herbal Cosmetics, referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic
ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide
defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics”. Herbs do not produce
instant cures. They offer a way to put the body in proper tune with nature. A huge number of
cosmetic and toiletry formulations have been designed and developed based upon Indian
Herbs recently. Other than traditionally documented applications, some modern trials have
also been using the utility of Indian herbs in Personal Care products. The demand of herbal
medicines is increasing rapidly due to their skin friendliness and lack of side effects. The best
thing of the herbal cosmetics is that it is purely made by the herbs and shrubs and thus is side-
effects free. The natural content in the herbs does not have any side effects on the human
body; instead provide the body with nutrients and other useful mineral. The term
Cosmeceuticals was first used by Raymond Reed founding member of U.S Society of
Cosmetics Chemist in 1961. He actually used the word to brief the active and science based
cosmetics. The above term was further used by Dr. Albert Kligman in the year 1984 to refer
the substances that have both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. Cosmeceuticals are
cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance health and beauty through ingredients
that influence the skin's biological texture and function.[3-6]
The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos” meaning having the
power, arrange, skill in decorating. The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative
throughout the history of man as they developed. The man in prehistoric times 3000BC used
colours for decoration to attract the animals that he wished to hunt and also the man survived
attack from the enemy by colouring his skin and adorned his body for protection to provoke
fear in an enemy (whether man or animal).[7-8]
The cosmetics are the utility product used extensively throughout the world for maintaining
and improving general appearance of face and other body parts. E.g. Mouth, hair, fingers,

hand, eye etc. It includes creams, powders, face pack, lotions, moisturizers, hair oils,
shampoo, conditioners and nail polish etc.[9]
HERBAL COSMETICS
Herbal cosmetics are referred as products that are formulated using various permissible
cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to
provide defined cosmetics benefits only. Herbal cosmetics are defined as the beauty products
which posses desirable physiological activity such as healing, smoothing appearance,
enhancing and conditioning properties because of herbal ingredient. „Cosmeceuticals‟ is
fastest growing segment of the beauty industry. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic-pharmaceutical
products intended to improve the health and beauty of the skin by providing a specific result,
ranging from acne-control and anti-wrinkle effects, to sun protection. The concept discovered
by Dr. Albert Klingman states that „The Cosmeceuticals are topical agents that are distributed
across broad spectrum of materials, lying somewhere between pure cosmetics (lipstick and
rouge) and pure drug (antibiotics, corticosteroids).[3-4]
Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics

Herbal cosmetics are the modern trend in the field of beauty and fashion. These agents are
gaining popularity as nowadays most women prefer natural products over chemicals for their
personal care to enhance their beauty as these products supply the body with nutrients and
enhance health and provide satisfaction as these are free from synthetic chemicals and have
relatively less side-effects compared to the synthetic cosmetics.
The name itself suggests that herbal cosmetics are natural and free from all the harmful
synthetic chemicals which otherwise may prove to be toxic to the skin. Instead of traditional
synthetic products different plant parts and plant extracts are used in these products, e.g. Aloe
vera gel and Coconut oil. They also consist of natural nutrients like Vitamin E that keeps skin
healthy, glowing and beautiful. For example, Aloevera is an herbal plant species belonging to
liliaceae family and is naturally and easily available. There are a rising number of consumers
concerned about ingredients such as synthetic chemicals, mineral oils who demand more
natural products with traceable and more natural ingredients, free from harmful chemicals
and with an emphasis on the properties of botanicals.[10-12]
Following are some of the advantages of using natural cosmetics which make them a better
choice over the synthetic ones:

Safe to use
Compared to other beauty products, natural cosmetics are safe to use. They are hypo-
allergenic and tested and proven by dermatologists to be safe to use anytime, anywhere. Since
they are made of natural ingredients, people don‟t have to worry about getting skin rashes or
experience skin itchiness. Example - BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole) and BHT (Butylated
Hydroxytoluene) are closely related synthetic antioxidants and are used as preservatives in
lipsticks and moisturizers. BHA and BHT can induce allergic reactions in the skin. The
international Agency for Research on Cancer classifies BHA as a possible human carcinogen.
Herbal cosmetics contain natural antioxidants like vitamin C.[10,13-15]
Compatible with skin

Natural cosmetics are suitable for all skin types. No matter if you are dark or fair, you will
find natural cosmetics like foundation, eye shadow, and lipstick which are appropriate
irrespective of your skin tone. Women with oily or sensitive skin can also use them and never
have to worry about degrading their skin condition. Coal tar-derived colours are used
extensively in cosmetics, Coal tar is recognized as a human carcinogen and the main concern
with individual coal tar a colour (whether produced from coal tar or synthetically) is they can
cause cancer. But natural colours that are obtained from herbs are safer.[16]
Choice of selection
Natural cosmetics may still be a new type in the beauty industry but they already offer a
variety of beauty products for all make up crazy people out there to choose from. One will
find a variety of cream, lotion, soap, shampoos, conditioner and many more which are all
naturally formulated. Furthermore, one will find locally made natural cosmetics or those
made by famous designers worldwide. There exist a large variety of herbal extracts, to name
a few Andrographis paniculata (Kalmegh), Asparagus racemosus (Shatavari), Boswellia
serrata (Salai guggal) etc.[10]
Fits budget
Natural cosmetics are not that expensive. In fact, some of these products are more affordable
than synthetic ones. They are offered at discounted prices and are sold for a cheap price
during sales. Just need to survey enough to look for great deals. An estimate of WHO
demonstrates about 80% of world population depends on natural products for their health
care, because of side effects inflicted and rising cost of modern medicine. World Health

Organization currently recommends and encourages traditional herbal cures in natural health
care programs as these drugs are easily available at low cost and are comparatively safe.[17]
No side effects
The synthetic beauty products can irritate your skin, and cause pimples. They might block
your pores and make your skin dry or oily. With natural cosmetics, one need not worry about
these. The natural ingredients used assure no side effects; one can apply them anytime,
anywhere. For example herbal cosmetics are free from parabens that are the most widely used
preservative in cosmetics and can penetrate the skin.[10]
Regulatory Status
The legal difference between a cosmetic and a drug is determined by a product‟s intended
use. Under present concept, the boundary at which a cosmetic product becomes drug is not
well-defined and different laws and regulations apply to each type of product.
The drugs and cosmetic Act 1940 defines a drug and a cosmetic as; Drug-“ All medicines for
internal or external use of human beings or animals and all substances intended to be used
for; or in the diagnosis, treatment, mitigation or prevention of any disease or disorder in
humans or animals”. Cosmetic-“Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or
sprayed on or introduced into or applied to any part of the human body for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article
intended for use as a component of cosmetic”[10,18]
Some products meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs. This may happen when a
product has more than one intended uses. For example, a shampoo is a cosmetic because its
intended use is to clean the hair. An antidandruff shampoo is a drug because its intended use
is to treat dandruff. Among the cosmetic/drug combinations are toothpastes that contain
fluoride, deodorants that are antiperspirants and moisturizers with sun-protection claims. The
claims made about drugs are subject to detailed analysis by the Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) review and approval process, but cosmetics are not subject to
mandatory FDA review. Although there is no legal category called cosmeceuticals, the term
has found application to designate the products at the borderline between cosmetics and
pharmaceuticals.[19-20]

Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act do not recognize the term itself. It is also often
difficult for consumers to determine whether „claims‟ about the actions or efficiency of
cosmeceuticals are valid unless the product has been approved by the FDA or equivalent
agency. Some countries have the classes of products that fall between the two categories of
cosmetics and drugs: for example, Japan has „Quasi-drugs‟; Thailand has „controlled
cosmetics‟ and Hong Kong has „cosmetic-type drugs‟. The regulations of cosmeceuticals
have not been harmonized between the USA, European, Asian and other countries.[21]
NATURAL ADDITIVES
Natural additives are the substances found naturally in some plants and are extracted for use
in others. OR Natural additives are the substances added directly to cosmetic product during
processing, as for preservation, colouring and stabilisation. OR Natural additives lend their
own special qualities by adding natures own nutrients and providing a unique look, colour,
texture and aroma.[22-24]
ADDITIVES MAY BE CATEGORISED INTO FOLLOWING MAJOR CLASSES

1. Additives used for preparation of skin care products.
2. Additives used for preparation of hair care products.
3. Additives used in preparation of herbal soap.
4. Additives used for preparation of perfumes.
5. Miscellaneous additives.
ADDITIVES USED IN SKIN CARE PREPARATIONS[26-33,42]

CHEMICAL
S.NO PLANT NAME DESCRIPTION TITLE CASE
CONSTITUENTS
Aloin, Vit.A,B,C,E, Moisturizing,
Aloe vera Aloe barabadensis
1. Barbaloin,Enzymes & Protecting and
(Ghritkumari) (Liliaceae)
Amino acids Soothing
Withania Withanoloids, Nourishing,
Ashwagandha
2. somnifera Withaferin A & Toning &
(Winter cherry)
(Solanaceae) Withasomnine Stimulating
Calendula Carotenoides,
Calendula Nourishing &
3. officinalis Triterpenes,Saponins &
(Marigold) Cleansing
(Asteraceae) Flavanoids
Maticia Soothing,
Chamomile Azulene and
4. chamomile Softening &
(Camomile) Bisabolol
(Asteraceae) Moisturizing
Gotukala Centella Asiaticoside, Anti aging,
5. (Indian asiatica Madecassoside, Nurturing,
Pennywort) (Apiaceae) Asiatic & Madecassic Toning &

Acid Emollient
Cucurbitin, Minerals Cleansing,
Cucumber Cucumus sativus
6. Vit.C,B ,Water & Protecting &
(Kheera) (Cucurbitaceae)
Carbohydrates Smoothing
Taraxacum Taraxacin,Vit. A & C,
Dandelion Toning &
7. officinale Taraxacerine &
(Blow ball) Moisturizing
(Asteraceae) Pottasium
Zinziber Starch,Volatie oil-a -
Ginger Moisturizing &
8. officinalis Zinziberine,geraniol b-
(Soonth) Soothing
(Zinziberaceae) Bisaboline & citral
Hibiscus rosa Alpha hydroxy acid Antioxidant, Anti
Hibiscus
9. sinesis Betaseto sterol & aging & Anti
(Rose of china)
(Malvaceae) Campesterol inflammatory
Jasminum Soothing,
Jasmone,Eugenol,
Jasmine officinale Moisturizing,
10. p-cresol,Geraniol &
(African violet) (Oleaceae) Revitalizing &
Cresol
Stimulating
Sunscreen
Lavendula Essential oil, Esters,
Lavender cream,Moisturizing
11. angustifolia Linalyl acetate,Cineol
(Hawthorn) & Antioxidant
(Labiatae) Geraniol & Pinene
V.O.-Borneol, Bornyl
Rosemary Rosemarinus Anti aging,Cooling
acetate,Camphor,
12. (Oleum officinalis purpose
Camphene,Tannins &
rosemarini) (Labiatae) & Flavouring agent
Ursolic acid
Essential oil,Geraniol Softening,Toning,
Rose Rosa centifolia
13. Quercitin,Kaemferol & Soothing &
(Rosette) (Rosaceae)
Citronell Flavouring agent
Violin,Ionone ,Ionine, Astringent,
Sweet violet Viola odorata
14. Salicylic acid & Soothing &
(Viola) (Violaceae)
Saponin Colouring agent
Pogostemon
Patchouli
15. cablin Patchoulol Flavouring agent
(Patchouly)
(Laminaceae)
V.O.-Terpinen-4-ol,
Tea Thea sinesis Nourishing, As
16. Gama terpine,Cineol &
(Camellia thea) (Theaceae) Skin cleansers
Alphaterpinene
Curcumin, Camphor, Antiseptic, Anti
Turmeric Curcuma longa
17. Alpha & beta pinene acne cream &
(Indian saffron) (Zingiberaceae)
Alpha phellandrenre Colouring agent
Azadirachita V.O.-Nimbin, Antiinflamatory,
Neem
18. indica Nimbinene,Beta seto Anti acne &
(Margosa)
(Maliaceae) sterol,Stigmasterol Antibacterial
Eucalyptus Eucalyptus Eucalyptol,Pinene,
Cleansing and
19. (Lemon gum globules Camphene &
Antiseptic
tree) (Myrtaceae) Phellandrene
Moisturizing,
Grape seeds Vitis vinifera Thiamine ,Niacin, Biotin
20. Antibacterial &
(Grapestone) (Vitaceae) & Ascorbic acid
Protective

Butea Anti-aging,
Butea superba Protein, Minerals,
21. monosperma Cooling and
(Bastard tea) Calcium & phosphorus
(Fabaceae) Anti inflammatory
Commiphora Volatlie oil, Terpenes &
Myrrh Anti-aging &
22. myrrha Alpha, beta ,gamma
(Myrrha,Bol) Cooling
(Burseraceae) Commiphoric acid
Vit.A,C,E, Minerals Anti inflammatory
Nettle Utrica diotica
23. Plant sterols & & Anti-aging (dark
(Urticate) (Urticaceae)
Flavanoids circles)
Ocinum sanctum V.O.- Eugenol,Cineol Anti-aging,
Basil
24. (Labiatae) Carvacrol, Vit. A & Anti-acne &
(Tulsi)
Ursolic acid Anti inflammatory
Vit. C, Fatty acid- Oleic,
Ricebran Oryza sativa Antioxidant &
25. Linoleic acid &
(Rice) (Graminae) Moisturizing
Antioxidant-Tocopherols
Nelumbo nucifera Nuciferine, Vitamins,
Lotus Astringent &
26. gaertn Romerine, Proteins
(White Lily) Anti inflamatory
(Nelumbonaceae) & Flavanoids
Anti-aging,
Carrot Daucus carota Vit.A & Alpha , beta &
27. Revitalizing &
(Hypernym) (Apiaceae) Gamma Carotene
Rejuenating
Flavone glycosides- Antioxidant &
Gingko Gingko biloba
28. Quercitin ,Kaemferol & Anti inflammatory
(Kew trere) (Gingkoaceae)
Schikimic acid agent
Goldenroot Rhodiala rosea
29. Phenolic compounds Antioxidant
(Roseroot) (Crassulaceae)
Essential oil- L-menthol,
Peppermint Mentha arvensis Aromatic &
30. Limonene &
(Mint) (Labiateae) Antioxidant
Menthyl acetate
Alkaloid-Ephedrine,
Country mallow Sida cordifolia Moisturizing &
31. Resin & Potassium
(Bala) (Malvaceae) Antiseptic
nitrate
ADDITIVES USED IN HAIR CARE PREPARATIONS[4,34-39,42]

PLANT CHEMICAL
S.NO. DESCRIPTION TITLE CASE
NAME CONSTITUENTS
Chamomile Matiria chamomile Azulene and Cleansing of light &
1.
(Camomile) (Asteraceae) Bisabolol blonde hair
Deodar V.O.-Himachalol,
Cedrus deodara
2. (Himalayan Centdarol,Dewarol & To treat dandruff
(Pinaceae)
cedar) Dewarene
Amla Embelica Vit. C, Tannins, Conditioning,
3. (Indian officinalis Minerals(Ca,P,Fe) & Promote hair growth
gooseberry) (Euphorbiaceae) Amino acid & Reduce hair fall
Asiaticoside,
Gotukala Centella Antibacterial-
Madecassoside,
4. (Indian asiatica Prevent scalp
Asiatic & Madecassic
Pennywort) (Apiaceae) infection
Acid

Cymbopogon
Lemon grass Citral, Limonene, Antibacterial &
5. citratus
(Sere grass) Citronellal & Geraniol Antifebrile
(Graminae)
Patchouli Patchouli cablin In herbal hair oil
6. Patchoulol
(Patchouly) (Laminaceae) (Reduce headache)
Vetiveria Beta vetivone, Iso Reduce dandruff &
Vetiver
7. zizanioides bisabolene, Khusol & Flavouring agent in
(Khas khas)
(Graminae) Azulene oil
Saponin which on
Cleansing,
Shikakai Acacia concina hydrolysis-Lubeol,
8. Promote hair growth
(Acacia) (Febaceae) Aspino sterol,
& reduce dandruff
Acacic acid & Sugar
Ocinum sanctum V.O.- Eugenol, Cineol
Basil Conditioning &
9. (Labiatae) Carvacrol, Vit. A &
(Tulsi) Antibacterial
Ursolic acid
Aloin, Vit.A,B,C,E, Manage hairs
10. Barbaloin,Enzymes & (Aloevera gel) &
Amino acids Smoothning
Jasminum In oils-To stimulate
Jasmine Jasmone, Eugenol,
officinale and
11. (African p-cresol, Geraniol &
(Oleaceae) Revitalize scalp &
violet) Cresol
Flavouring agent
To rinse hair,
Vit.A,C,E, Minerals
Nettle Utrica diotica stimulate scalp &
12. Plant sterols &
(Urticate) (Urticaceae) Reduce greying of
Flavanoids
hair
Azadirachita V.O.-Nimbin, Antibacterial-To
Neem
13. indica Nimbinene, Beta seto prevent scalp
(Margosa)
(Maliaceae) Sterol & Stigmasterol Infection
Cleansing
Saponin, Sugars,
Soapnut Sapindus murroski Conditioning,
14. Fatty acid,Mucilage &
(Reetha) (Sapindaceae) Promote hair growth
Vit. A,D,E,K
& Reduce dandruff
Vit. C, Fatty acid- Oleic,
Ricebran Oryza sativa Stimulate hair
15. Linoleic acid &
(Rice) (Graminae) growth
Antioxidant-Tocopherols
Wild cherry Prunasin, Scopoletin
Prunus serotina For smooth & Silky
16. bark p-coumaric acid &
(Rosaceae) hair
(Black cherry) Trimethyl gallic acid
Sugars, Vitamins,
Coconut Cocos nucifera Minerals Promote hair growth
17.
(Cocoa palm) (Areacaceae) Amino acids & & moisturize scalp
Phytoharmones
Smoothning &
Sunflower Helianthus annuus Lecithin,Tocopherol
18. Conditioning
(Daisy) (Asteraceae) Carotenoids & Waxes
properties
Simmondsia Esters, Acids, Alcohol Reduce hair loss,
Jojoba
19. chinensis Tocopherol & Moisturize hair &
(Hohoba)
(Simmondsiaceae) Phytosterols Maintain pH

Triolein, Tripalmitin
Olive Olea europaea Hair conditioner,
20. Trilinolein, Squalene
(Oleum olivae) (Oleaceae) Moisturizing.
& Tocopherol
Colouring &
Henna Lawsonia inermis Lawsone, Gallic acid
21. Antibacterial
(Mahogany) (Lythraceae) Mannitol & Vit.C
Property
Promotes hair
Thiophene derivatives, growth,Removes
Bhringraj Eclipta prostrata
22. stigmasterol and B- greying, Balding, &
(Babri) (Asteraceae)
sitosterol Makes the hair
darker
ADDITIVES USED IN HERBAL SOAPS[40,42]

PLANT CHEMICAL TITLE CASE
S.NO DESCRIPTION
NAME CONSTITUENTS
Proteins,Albumin, Moisturize skin
Apricot Prunus americana
1. Amandin, Vit. A & Exfoliate dead skin
(Bittersweet) (Rosaceae)
Amino acid & Revitalize
Carotenoides, Cleansing,
Calendula Calendula officinalis
2. Triterpenes, Saponins & Stimulating &
(Marigold) (Asteraceae)
Flavanoids Softening
V.O.- Eugenol,
Cinnamomum Astringent,
Cinnamon Cinnamaldehyde,
3. zeylanicum Stimulating &
(Dalchini) Cuminaldehyde &
(Lauraceae) Cooling
Mannitol
Eucalyptus Eucalyptol, Pinene,
Eucalyptus globules Cleansing &
4. (Lemon gum Camphene &
(Myrtaceae) Antiseptic
tree) Phellandrene
Grape seeds Vitis vinifera Thiamine, Niacin, Biotin Moisturizing,
5.
(Grapestone) (Vitaceae) & Ascorbic acid & Emollient
Balance &
Lavender Harmonising effect
6. angustifolia Linalyl acetate,Cineol
(Hawthorn) on skin (Dry &
Oily)
Cymbopogon
Lemon grass Citral,Limonene, Antiseptic &
7. citratus
(Sere grass) Citronellal & Geraniol Cooling
(Graminae)
Carvone, Dipentent,
Spearmint Mentha spicata Cooling &
8. Dihydrocarveol &
(Lamb mint) (Labiatae) Cleansing effect
Limonene.
Peppermint Mentha arvensis Cooling &
9. Limonene &
(Mint) (Labiatae) Cleansing effect
Menthyl acetate
Vit.A,C,E, Minerals
Nettle Utrica diotica
10. Plant sterols & Moisturize skin
(Urticate) (Urticaceae)
Flavanoids
Azadirachita V.O.-Nimbin, Antiseptic,
Neem
11. indica Nimbinene, Beta seto Antibacterial &
(Margosa)
(Maliaceae) Sterol & Stigmasterol Antifungal

Essential oil,Geraniol Cleansing,

Rose Rosa centifolia
12. Quercitin,Kaemferol & Smoothning &
(Rosette) (Rosaceae)
Citronell Flavouring agent
Patchouli Pogostemon cablin Moisturizing & as
13. Patchoulol
(Patchouly) (Laminaceae) flavouring agent
Rosemary V.O.-Borneol, Bornyl
Rosemarinus
(Oleum acetate,Camphor, Refreshing &
14. officinalis
rosemarini) Camphene,Tannins & moisturizing
(Labiatae)
Ursolic acid
Walnut
Junglans renia Juglansin, Cystine & Moisturize & Sooth
15. (Burnt
(Junglandaceae) Trytophan skin
almond)
Aloin, Vit.A,B,C,E, Moisturizing,
16. Barbaloin,Enzymes & Soothing & Cooling
Amino acids action
ADDITIVES USED IN HERBAL PERFUMES[41,42]

PLANT CHEMICAL
S.NO DESCRIPTION TITLE CASE
NAME CONSTITUENTS
V.O.- Eugenol,
Cinnamomum
Cinnamon Cinnamaldehyde, Flavouring agent &
1. zeylanicum
(Dalchini) Cuminaldehyde & Cooling agent
(Lauraceae)
Mannitol
Lavender
2. angustifolia Linalyl acetate,Cineol Flavouring agent
(Hawthorn)
Carvone, Dipentent,
Spearmint Mentha spicata Flavouring agent &
3. Dihydrocarveol &
(Lamb mint) (Labiatae) Cooling effect
Limonene.
Peppermint Mentha arvensis Flavouring agent &
4. Limonene &
(Mint) (Labiatae) Cooling effect
Menthyl acetate
Ocinum sanctum V.O.-Eugenol,Cineol
Basil Aromatic &
5. (Labiatae) Carvacrol, Vit. A &
(Tulsi) Cooling
Ursolic acid
Carotenoides,
Calendula Calendula officinalis
6. Triterpenes,Saponins & Flavouring agent
(Marigold) (Asteraceae)
Flavanoids
V.O.-Fenchone,
Fennel Foeniculum vulgare Aromatic &
7. Anethole,Limonene &
(Saunf) (Umbelliferae) Flavouring agent
Phellandrene
Cymbopogon
Lemon grass Citral,Limonene,
8. citratus Cooling & Aromatic
(Sere grass) Citronellal & Geraniol
(Graminae)
V.O.-Borneol, Bornyl
Rosemary Rosemarinus
acetate,Camphor, Aromatic &
9. (Oleum officinalis
Camphene,Tannins & Flavouring agent
rosemarini) (Labiatae)
Ursolic acid

Volatlie oil, Terpenes &

Myrrh Commiphora myrrha
10. Alpha, beta ,gamma Flavouring agent
(Myrrha, Bol) (Burseraceae)
Commiphoric acid
Nutmeg Triglycerides,Palmitic
Myristica fragrans
11. (Nux ,Stearic,Linoleic & Oleic Flavouring agent
(Myristicaceae)
moschata) acid
Jasmine Jasminum officinale Jasmone,Eugenol,
12. (African (Oleaceae) p-cresol,Geraniol & Flavouring agent
violet) Cresol
Essential oil,Geraniol
Rose Rosa centifolia Cooling &
13. Quercitin,Kaemferol,
(Rosette) (Rosaceae) Flavouring agent
& Citronell
MISCELLAENEOUS ADDITIVES[25]
S.NO. NAME DESCRIPTION TITLE CASE
This wax is secreted by the
bees when constructing their
honeycombs. Bees Wax is
As lip balm,
Bees wax obtained by melting and
1. Emulsifying & Moisturizing
(White wax) filtering the honeycombs to
agent ( Cream & Lotions)
get a clean wax.It contains free
acids, esters and other natural
components
Bentonite or Fuller Clay is a
naturally occurring
sedimentary clay composed
Bentonite In Body powder,
2. Mainly of alumina, silica, iron
(Fullers clay) Facial mask & In soap
oxides, lime,magnesia and
water, in extremely
variable proportions.
Australian Black Clay soothes
irritation and draws out
Used in face and body
impurities from the skin,
Australian masks,remove dead skin
3. helping clear blemishes. Its
black clay cells, absorb excess oil and
healing powers are attributed
improve skin tone.
to its rich oxygen and
mineral content.
Also called kaolin clay or
Used in fine face powders,
China white White clay, is one of the
Soothing, Cleansing, Hydrating,
4. kaolin clay mildest and purest of all
Detoxifying action & In hair care
(Kaolin clay) clays. It can be used on even
preparations.
the most sensitive skin
French Green Clay is mined from Toning action, revitalizing the
French green bedrock quarries in complexion while tightening
5.
clay France. It has great pores, helps to clear problem
absorbent powers. skin.
Pink kaolin Pink Kaolin Clay, also called
Soothing, Cleansing, Hydrating
6. clay (French French Pink Clay, is a mild clay
and Detoxifying action
pink clay) that can be used everyday without

drying the skin.

Rhassoul Clay, also known as
Rhassoul clay Cleansing, Smoothning,
Moroccan Lava Clay, is ancient
7. (Moroccan Moisturizing & Remove dead
clay formed deep beneath the Atlas
lava clay) skin.
mountains in eastern Morocco.
Known for its rich concentration of
Rejuvenates skin, Removes
salt and rare minerals, the Dead
Dead sea mud impurities, Used in hair care to
8. Sea has long been praised for its
and salt make shinier softer and healthier
healing qualities and therapeutic
hair.
properties.
Eggs are one of nature's
most perfectly balanced
foods, containing all the In hair care helps in moisturising
9. Eggs
protein, vitamins (except & conditioning hair.
vitamin C) and minerals,
Essential for good health.
Goat Milk is one of natures
finest moisturizers and skin
softeners due to its high
Butter fat content. Rich in Used in soaps, Rejenuvating
10. Goat milk vitamins, goat milk also effects on skin, Neutralize free
contains lactic acid, one of radical & slow aging process.
the most commonly used
alpha hydroxy acids in skin
care.
Harvested from the foothills
of the Himalayas, this Healing purposes, Cleanse and
Himalayan
11. naturally pink salt is one of detoxify skin & make smoother,
pink salt
the purest salts found on healthier.
Earth.
The acids in honey have been Honey hydrates, moisturizes,
12. Honey known to help one‟s skin look soothes & softens skin (Cream
youthful. and soap)
Also known as Celtic Sea
Help to exfoliate dead skin,
Salt or Grey Sea
Noirmoutier remove toxins from the skin,
Salt, has been harvested by
13. Sea Salt clean pores, strengthen skin tissue
hand for over 1500 years
(Grey sea salt) and stimulate circulation to keep
from the island of
skin looking younger.
Noirmoutier near Brittany.
Remove dead skin cells and
Yogurt Milk and yogurt contain lactic
14. hydrate and sooth the complexion
acid, a natural alpha hydroxy acid
leaving skin refreshed and clear.
Great for skin and hair care, used
Baking soda as a dry shampoo, a clarifying
Baking Soda, also known as
15. (Sodium rinse to remove residue and
sodium bicarbonate,
bicarbonate) chlorine from hair, natural
deodorant

COMMON ADDITIVES USED IN COSMETIC PREPARATIONS
CALENDULA JASMINE ROSE
SHIKAKAI NEEM HENNA
ALOE VERA BASIL EUCALYPTUS
OLIVE COCONUT SOAPNUT
TURMERIC PEPPERMINT LAVENDER

NETTLE GRAPE SEED AMLA
CHAMOMILE ROSEMARY HIBISCUS
BENTONITE BEES WAX CUCUMBER
CONCLUSION
Herbal cosmetics are in existence from when the men started to use the cosmetic products. So
they are oldest products used by mankinds. Some common cosmetics include creams, face
packs, scrubs, hair oils, hair colours, shampoos, hair conditioners, perfumes and fragrance,
soaps, etc. The formulation of all these cosmetic products includes addition of various natural
additives like oils, waxes, natural colour, natural fragrances and parts of plants like leaves,
flowers etc by specific formulation methods. In the developing countries of Asia, Africa &
Latin America more than 80% of the population relies on traditional Herbal products, mostly
plant originated. The global demand for these products is increasing due to reinsured interest
of consumers in natural products, as they are considered safer & more cost-effective than
synthetic one. Herbal cosmetics are now emerged as the appropriate solution to the current
problem. The usage of Herbal cosmetics has been increased to many folds in personal care

system & there is a great demand for Herbal cosmetics. Personal care Industry is currently
more concentrated on Herbal cosmetics as now-a-days it is a fast growing segment with a
vast scope of manifold expansion in coming years. Herbal cosmetics are the preparations,
which represent cosmetic associated with active bio-ingredients, neutraceuticals &
pharmaceuticals. The use of bioactive phytochemicals from a variety of botanicals have dual
function, (a) They serve as cosmetics for the care of body & its parts (b) The botanical
ingredients present therein influence biological functions of skin and provide nutrients
necessary for the healthy skin and hair. In general, botanicals provide different vitamins,
antioxidants, various oils, essential oils, hydrocolloids, proteins, terpenoids & other bioactive
molecules. There is a tremendous scope to launch numerous herbal cosmetics using
appropriate bioactive ingredients with suitable fatty oil, essential oils, proteins & additives.
The demand of herbal products has been increasing 15-20% per annum across the world. A
vast biodiversity and different climatic conditions of our country provide a variety of
botanicals, which can be used in formulations. Our traditional knowledge about the plant
wealth as described in Ayurveda, Siddha, Unani and Tibetian system of medicine, is of great
help to identify the phytochemicals for body care preparations. Necessary efforts are required
to associate the modern cosmetology with bio active ingredients used for body care
preparations. Bio Pharma companies need to carry out more extensive market penetration &
research for Herbal products to become more frequently used by users. It is mandatory that
adequate safety testing should be conducted according to existing rules and well documented
along with the ingredients composition.
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WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES

Anjali et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

Volume 5, Issue 6, 630-648 Review Article ISSN 2278 – 4357

A REVIEW ON NATURAL ADDITIVES USED IN COSMETIC

Joshi Anjali* and Singh Nardev

Article Received on ABSTRACT

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 630

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 631

Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 632

Compatible with skin

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 633

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 634

ADDITIVES MAY BE CATEGORISED INTO FOLLOWING MAJOR CLASSES

ADDITIVES USED IN SKIN CARE PREPARATIONS[26-33,42]

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 635

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 636

ADDITIVES USED IN HAIR CARE PREPARATIONS[4,34-39,42]

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 637

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 638

ADDITIVES USED IN HERBAL SOAPS[40,42]

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 639

Essential oil,Geraniol Cleansing,

ADDITIVES USED IN HERBAL PERFUMES[41,42]

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 640

Volatlie oil, Terpenes &

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 641

drying the skin.

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 642

COMMON ADDITIVES USED IN COSMETIC PREPARATIONS

CALENDULA JASMINE ROSE

SHIKAKAI NEEM HENNA

ALOE VERA BASIL EUCALYPTUS

OLIVE COCONUT SOAPNUT

TURMERIC PEPPERMINT LAVENDER

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 643

NETTLE GRAPE SEED AMLA

CHAMOMILE ROSEMARY HIBISCUS

BENTONITE BEES WAX CUCUMBER

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 644

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 645

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 646

21. Hammes C, Cosmeceuticals: The cosmetic-drug borderline. In Drug discovery

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 647

www.wjpps.com Vol 5, Issue 6, 2016. 648

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