Clutch Pressure Solenoid Valve (A, B & C) Screen

Replacement for 5-speed transmissions (2002-2004 Odyssey’s).

The following work was performed on a 2003 Honda Odyssey with 79,348 miles on it.
The job was done on April 18, 2009. My vehicle was put into service on May 23, 2003
therefore it was done after 5 years and 11 months of service.

In addition to the work described above, I also performed a replacement of the OEM
screw-on ATF filter, a replacement of my Magnefine in-line ATF filter and a 1X drain
and fill. Overall, the job took me about 4 hours with cleanup.

By the way, unfortunately I’ll have to put this disclaimer. The following is what I did. I
provide this write up out of the kindness of my heart. However, it may not be all
inclusive and you are fully responsible for your own work to your vehicle. Any
accidents, or damages that happen when you perform the work are YOUR
RESPONSIBILITY, not mine.

Below is a picture of the tools that I used to complete with work:

 1. ¼: Ratchet, 3/8” Ratchet, and a ½” ratchet
2. 8 mm, 10 mm, & 12 mm sockets
3. Multiple socket extensions
4. 3/8” torque wrench with inch-pounds or very low Newton-meter measurements
(i.e. 12 N-M)
5. 10 mm, & 12 mm flexible head ratcheting wrenches (fine tooth)
6. 11/16” wrench or 17 mm wrench…..(for cooler supply and return line bolts)
7. Needle nose pliers & channel lock expandable pliers
8. Crescent wrench
9. Extendable magnet
10. A flat head screw driver (not shown)
11. Drain pan and measu-funnel with flexible hose (not shown - for ATF drain and
refill thru dipstick tube).
12. Some scrap 2x6’s to give you a few more inches of clearance under the vehicle
(not shown).

Here are all the parts that I ordered:

Below is Solenoid Valve A & B screens. Note: in the picture below that there are only 2
screens. Bernardi Honda screwed up my order and sent me two instead of the three that I
ordered. I also didn’t take a close up picture of the rubber O-rings. They are in picture
above (top left).
Above is gasket for Solenoid Valves A & B.

Below is Solenoid Valve C screen (8x12).

Above is gasket with integral screen for Solenoid C.

Below is new Magnefine filter (Raybestos) and next to it is the OEM screw-on filter.
Before getting started, you’ll need your radio code and a list of all your channel presets.
The battery will be disconnected and removed from the vehicle…..all presets will be lost.

The first thing that I did was grab a few scrap pieces of 2x6 and backed the ODY up onto
them for some additional clearance. Then I set the parking brake.
The next thing that I did was remove the battery by first disconnecting the negative
terminal and then the positive using the 10 mm ¼” socket. Then I had to remove the
bracket that holds the battery to the tray (again 10 mm).

Once the battery was out of the way, then I removed the intake hose between air filter and
throttle body. Again, I believe it’s a 10 mm socket on the hose clamp at throttle body and
8 mm socket with extension on 4 bolts that hold it onto the air filter.

I also had disconnected a few hoses from the air intake hose. Note that you don’t have to
remove disconnect the lower hose circled 2 pictures below. It is an engine coolant hose.

After the intake hose and battery were out of the way, then I disconnected wiring
harness’s from battery tray and unplugged ABS wiring harness from brake master
cylinder.

Disconnected hose

ABS wire harness

Detach wiring harness

from battery tray
 No need to disconnect
this hose (engine
coolant)

Then I removed the battery tray. There are four (4) 12 mm bolts that hold it to the frame
of the vehicle. The picture below is of the bottom of the tray after it was removed.
Notice that this particular bolt hole is slotted so that you don’t have to completely remove
the bolt to get the tray out.
Picture of 4th battery tray bolt (slotted). This is the hard one to get to. I had to get to it
from below using an angle offset ratcheting 12 mm wrench.

Now, the whole area is easily accessible. Note that if you are just performing the
Solenoid valve screen replacement, others have done this without removing the battery
tray. The reason I did was because I was removing the OEM filter and wanted the extra
room to work. Once you know the trick to the battery tray removal (i.e. that you don’t
need to completely remove that 4th bolt in above photo), getting the tray out only takes a
few minutes.

I then tied up the loose wiring harnesses using a very small bungee chord.
The next thing I did was the removal and installation of the OEM screw on filter. There
are two (2) 10 mm bolts on the ears of the bracket that holds the ATF line downstream
side of the filter. They are circled in red below. Please note that picture below is actually
after I replaced the filter…..I forgot to take a “before picture”. This is where I needed the
flexible head ratcheting wrench that was fine tooth. It’s kind of tight getting to that upper
bolt.
I just used a flat head screw driver between the ears on the fitting and bracket on the
transmission housing and levered it out of the end (to the right in the photo) of the OEM
filter (it just pushes into the end of the filter).

Then I ended up using my huge set of S&K expandable pliers and grabbing the old filter
and twisting it to loosen it from the left side. Once it started to turn, I could then just turn
it off by hand.

When I installed the new filter, I screwed it in by hand until tight, and then I somehow
managed to get an adjustable wrench onto welded nut on the right side filter to tighten it
up.

I forgot to order a new O-ring. It was a bit damaged during removal…..but I ended up
cleaning it up the best I could and I reused it. I put a bit of new ATF on it before sliding
it back into the filter for lubrication. I have my fingers crossed that it won’t leak.

O-ring (you should

make sure you get a
new one)!!!!
 Ok, after I got the OEM filter on and all tightened up, I then started the solenoid valve
A&B removal. It is pictured below in bigger rectangle. To get it out, I did the following:
1. Took my air compressor and blew as much of the crud off the area of solenoid
valve to prevent contamination.
2. Disconnect two wiring connectors on top of valve.
3. Remove 10 mm bolt holding the two metal ATF cooler lines.
4. I then loosened (just one turn, did not remove) the bolt on each banjo fitting for
each of the two metal ATF cooler lines to allow them to move enough to get the
solenoid out. I used an 11/16 open end wrench; however I believe that actual size
is 17 mm.
5. I removed the dipstick tub from the transmission…..however; I don’t think that
you need to. There is a 10 mm bolt that holds the welded bracket to the tranny
housing. Once the bolt was removed, I used needle nose pliers to wiggle it loose.
It lifts up and out of the tranny housing. It sticks into the housing about 2 inches.
6. Then I removed each of the six (6) 10 mm bolts that hold the Solenoid to the top
of the housing.
7. Then I lifted up on the solenoid and rotated it out. Banjo fitting bolts
are just off picture
(sorry).

Dipstick tube bolt

Metal ATF line

bracket bolt
Below are the tubes that I removed.
After I got it off, I then did the following:
1. Took everything into the garage and examined each of the tubes and screens.
Mine were all in good shape. However, I picked one and cleaned it with brake
cleaner. I also reused the 3 rubber O-rings (don’t clean with brake cleaner). All
of mine were in good shape and I just didn’t see any need to use the new ones at
all.
2. I cleaned the long tube (with no screen) with brake cleaner as well for reuse.
3. I very carefully cleaned the gasket surface on the solenoid valve itself.
4. Then I went back out to the vehicle and super carefully removed the old gasket
with a razor blade. Mine came off nice and neat. I had to be super careful to not
get dirt and grit into the bowl on the top of the transmission housing. I soaked up
all excess ATF using clean paper towels. Then I got all the parts together and
started the re-install.

Note: if you’re having shifting issues (I was not), there are testing procedures spelled
out in the shop manual on how to properly test the functionality of the solenoid
valve itself. Please refer to them.

Picture below was prior to cleaning old gasket material off……

Note that the six (6) 10 mm bolts should be torqued to 12 N-m to ensure an even seal.
Anytime I deal with a paper gasket, I ALWAYS use a torque wrench!!!! Also, remember
that you need to include a small wiring harness bracket on the bottom right bolt in the
photo above when putting in the bolts back in.

I then reinstalled the dipstick tube and tighten every thing back up and then connect
wiring harnesses. That’s it you’re done! Ok, well not quite. We’ve got one more
Solenoid to deal with (solenoid C)

Solenoid C is located down on the front side (side facing the front of the vehicle). Due to
its location (i.e. down on the side of the housing) I chose to drain the ATF from the case
next. I’m not sure what will happen if you don’t. It may or may not poor out of one of
the holes after its removal if you don’t drain the ATF first….someone else can
experiment with it. I wanted to freshen up the ATF anyway.

Anyway, all I need to drain the ATF was my drain pan and a 3/8” ratchet. Unscrew drain
bolt and let her drain.
 After it finished draining, I then reinstalled the drain bolt and tightened with the 3/8
ratchet snugly. Do not over tighten or use a ½ ratchet. The torque spec is 49 N-m (36
FT-lbs).

Solenoid Valve C is pictured inside box below.

Since I had the battery tray out, I could get to Solenoid Valve C from above…..otherwise,
I would have had to do it from below. Either way, it’s very easy to get to and remove.
There are just four (4) 10 mm bolts that hold it on. I simply unhooked the wiring harness
from the solenoid, removed the 4 bolts and it popped right off. ☺

I had to use an extendable magnet to remove the tube from the transmission housing. I
just put the magnet near the tube and it popped right out and attached to the magnet.

Solenoid valve wiring

connector after it was
unplugged from
valve
 Solenoid valve
removed and
mounting surface

Picture taken from below

vehicle looking up

Solenoid valve removed and

mounting surface
After I got it off, I took it into the garage and removed the rubber gasket and inspected
both the screen on the gasket and in the 8x12 mm tube. Again, un-eventful. My screens
were all clear and in good shape. I did however install the new parts anyways. The old
ones I have kept for future use if needed.

Note: if you’re having shifting issues (I was not), there are testing procedures spelled
out in the shop manual on how to properly test the functionality of the solenoid
valve itself. Please refer to them.

Then I carefully cleaned the mounting surface of the valve itself with a razor blade and
clean paper towels. I then installed the new rubber gasket onto the valve itself.

Then I went back out to the vehicle and from beneath I cleaning the mating surface on the
transmission housing with a razor blade trying to keep all dirt a grit from entering any of
the holes.

Then I inserted the new 8x12 mm tube into the housing. Make sure you look at the
shop manual page 14-363 and you install the tube in the correct hole!

I reinstalled the solenoid valve and used my torque wrench to tighten the four (4) 10 mm
bolts to the specified 12 N-m. Reconnect the wiring harness. Now your done…..with
solenoid valve C.
The next thing I did was replace my Magnefine in-line ATF filter. Here is an older
picture of my Magnefine filter installed. Note picture is taken from beneath the vehicle.
I am lying under the center and the front of the vehicle is on the right side of the picture.

I simply loosen each of the clamps (upstream and downstream) on the filter. Slip the
ATF hose off and the filter is off. Then I install the new filter. Note there will be some
drainage from both sides, so have your drain pan handy. Then I zip-tied it to the cross
member to keep it from moving around.
 For those of you interested in what the internals of the OEM filter verses the Magnefine
filter, I offer the following two pictures. You may find these interesting.

The Magnefine is on the left hand side and the OEM is on the right. I cut them open
using a zip blade on my mini-grinder.

Donut magnet inside the

base of the Magnefine filter.
Notice the relative size difference between the two filters. While the Magnefine is just is
a bit smaller in diameter (~ 2/3) than the OEM filter, it is also much taller (~ 1.5 times).
Therefore, this is why this filter (Magnefine) is definitely recommended for the 4-speed
transmission which does not have an OEM filter!!!! If not using a Magnefine, some other
remote screw on filter would be recommended. If doing a remote filter, it would be
recommended that you place magnets around the outside to trap ferrous material as it
travels through the filter.
Ok, after finishing my Magnefine replacement, I drained all my ATF into my home made
graduated fancy windshield wiper fluid jug to determine that I drained about 3.5 quarts of
ATF. Then I got out my nifty $4 Walmart measu-funnel and hooked it up to the dipstick
tube and gave the dog puke tan middle aged girl a drink of ATF-Z1 coolaid. ☺

I then reinstalled the battery tray, wiring harness’s, air intake hose, and re-checked and
triple checked that I had all the wiring harness’s connected. Remember to reconnect that
ABS harness BEFORE the battery tray or the air intake hose is installed. Much easier to
get to.

Then I reinstalled the battery (positive terminal first) and made sure all was tightened up.

Then I hopped in and started her up. No codes on my ScanGauge! Hurray!!!! You
probably should check for any leaks before embarking on any significant trip there, eh?

Good day and happy motoring.