AWARENESS OF LEAN IN THE INDIAN GARMENT

MANUFACTURING INDUSTRY

A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of

the requirement for the award of Degree in

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted By
SHIVANI PANDEY

Under the Guidance of

MR. T.S.PRAKASH

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai
May, 2015
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Abstract ..................................................................................................................... III

Certificate .................................................................................................................. III

Acknowledgement ...................................................................................................... V

List of tables .............................................................................................................. VI

List of graphs........................................................................................................... VIII

Chapter 1: Introduction ............................................................................................... 1

1.1 Topic for the study ............................................................................................ 3

1.2 Need for the study ............................................................................................ 3

1.3 Objective of the project ..................................................................................... 4

Chapter 2: Review of Literature.................................................................................. 5

2.1 5S ..................................................................................................................... 7

2.2 Just-in-time ....................................................................................................... 7

2.3 Kaizen ............................................................................................................... 9

2.4 Kanban ............................................................................................................. 9

2.5 Modular Layout ............................................................................................... 10

2.6 Poka Yoke ...................................................................................................... 11

2.7 Single Minute Exchange of Dies ..................................................................... 13

2.8 Single Piece Flow ........................................................................................... 13

2.9 Six Sigma ....................................................................................................... 14

2.10 Standard Operating Procedure ..................................................................... 14

I
 2.11 Takt time ....................................................................................................... 16

2.12 Total Productive Maintenance ...................................................................... 17

2.13 Value stream mapping .................................................................................. 17

2.14 Visual controls .............................................................................................. 17

Chapter 3: Methodology ........................................................................................... 20

Chapter 4: Data Analysis and Interpretation............................................................. 28

Chapter 5: Results and Outcome ............................................................................. 41

Chapter 6: Limitations of the study ........................................................................... 43

Chapter 7: Future scope of the study ....................................................................... 44

Chapter 8: Conclusion .............................................................................................. 45

Chapter 9: References ............................................................................................. 46

Appendices………………………………………………………………………………….I

II
 Abstract

Garment industry is an assembly-oriented labour intensive industry. Lean

manufacturing helps to identify the wastes and hence reduce the production cost and

optimize the production process. The garment manufacturers have to coordinate the

demand of quality, delivery, cost and flexibility of garments to achieve customer

satisfaction. This study analyses the lean tools used in the Indian garment industry

and their awareness level in the industry. Lean manufacturing has a growing

importance in the garment industry so that it is able to maintain its competitiveness in

the global market. Efforts are taken but they are not enough to transform the

industry.

Keywords: Lean manufacturing; Garment industry; Wastes; Awareness level;

Production cost

III
 Certificate

“This is to certify that this Project Report titled “Awareness of Lean in the Indian

garment manufacturing industry” is based on my, Shivani Pandey, original

research work, conducted under the guidance of Mr. T.S. Prakash, towards partial

fulfillment of the requirement for award of the Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion

Technology (Apparel Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology,

Mumbai.

No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever

borrowed has been duly acknowledged.”

Signature of Researcher

Signature of Guide

IV
 Acknowledgement

This project would not have been possible without the help and support of my

teachers and friends, who were always there when I needed them.

First and foremost, I would like to thank my mentor, Mr. T.S. Prakash, for his

guidance throughout the project duration. I would also take this opportunity to thank

the entire Fashion Technology department faculties for their valuable feedback from

time to time.

Secondly, I would like to extend my gratitude towards my institute, National Institute

of Fashion Technology, Mumbai, for providing me a platform where I got to learn and

experiment with my knowledge.

I would also like to extend my thanks to all the garment industries that participated in

my survey and provided me with relevant data.

Lastly, I would like to thank my friends and family for always being there for me at all

my peaks and valleys.

Shivani Pandey
B.FTech

V
 List of tables

Table 4.1 Minimum educational requirement in the industries

Table 4.2 Awareness of Lean Manufacturing

Table 4.3 Attitude towards organizational benefits through Lean

Table 4.4 Practice followed in the industry

Table 4.4a The lean tools followed

Table 4.4b Cross tabulation between practice followed and tools followed

Table 4.5 The lean tools known already

Table 4.5a Cross tabulation between tools followed and known already

Table 4.6 Cross tabulation between practice followed and apparel category

Table 4.7 Cross tabulation between education level and awareness level

Table 4.8a Cross tabulation between practice followed and transportation

waste produced

Table 4.8b Cross tabulation between practice followed and inventory waste
produced

Table 4.8c Cross tabulation between practice followed and motion waste
produced

Table 4.8d Cross tabulation between practice followed and waiting waste
produced

Table 4.8e Cross tabulation between practice followed and over production
waste produced

Table 4.8f Cross tabulation between practice followed and over processing
waste produced

VI
Table 4.8g Cross tabulation between practice followed and defects waste
produced

Table 4.8h Cross tabulation between practice followed and manpower waste
produced

Table 4.8i Cross tabulation between practice followed and absenteeism waste
produced

Table 4.9 Cross tabulation between apparel produced and the bottleneck
area

Table 4.10 Cross tabulation between practice followed and bottleneck

management

VII
 List of graphs

Graph 4.1 Minimum educational requirement in the industries

Graph 4.2 Awareness of Lean Manufacturing

Graph 4.3 Attitude towards organizational benefits through Lean

Graph 4.4 Practice followed in the industry

Graph 4.4a The lean tools followed

Graph 4.4b Comparison between practice followed and tools followed

Graph 4.5 The lean tools known already

Graph 4.5a Comparison between tools followed and known already

Graph 4.6 Comparison between practice followed and apparel category

Graph 4.7 Comparison between education level and awareness level

VIII
 Chapter 1: Introduction

The term "lean" was coined to describe Toyota's business during the late 1980s by a

research team headed by Jim Womack, Ph.D., at MIT's International Motor Vehicle

Program. First mentioned in James Womack's 1990 book, "The Machine That

Changed the World,"

Lean Manufacturing is a theory that helps to simplify and organize the working

environment so that the wastes are identified and reduced. Waste is anything that

does not contribute to transforming a part to the customer’s needs. The aim of lean

manufacturing is the elimination of waste in every area of production including

customer relations, product design, supplier networks, and factory management. Its

goal is to incorporate less human effort, less inventory, less time to develop

products, and less space to become highly responsive to customer demand while

producing top quality products in the most efficient and economical manner possible.

Also, it helps to keep the people, equipment, and workspace responsive to what is

needed at the moment. (What is Lean, 2012)

Why lean for garment?

India is the second largest manufacturer of garments after China being the global

leader in garment production. Abundant availability of raw materials such as cotton,

wool, silk and jute as well as skilled workforce have made the country a sourcing

hub. The potential size of the Indian textiles and apparel industry is expected to

reach US$ 223 billion by 2021, according to a report by Technopak Advisors. (Textile

Industry in India, 2014)

1
In the first half of the financial year 2013, India exported apparel worth $7.9 billion, a

rise of 13 per cent over the year-ago period, according to data collected by AEPC

(Apparel Export Promotion Council). Last year, apparel and garment exports stood at

$14 billion. It contributed about 14% of the industrial production, direct employment

generation (35 million workforce) and foreign exchange earnings (~27%) in Financial

Year 2013. (INDIAN GARMENT INDUSTRY AT A GLANCE IN 2013 - 2014, 2015)

The Apparel industry contributes to almost 4% of the India's GDP (Gross Domestic

Product). The Indian Garment Industry has been growing as the disposable incomes

of the people are rising. The Garment Industry is of major importance to the Indian

economy as it contributes substantially to India's export earnings. It is estimated and

analysed that one out of every six households in the country depends on this sector

either indirectly or directly for its livelihood (INDIAN GARMENT INDUSTRY AT A

GLANCE IN 2013 - 2014, 2015)

Most of the garment manufacturers in India are in the Small and Medium scale

industries. Indian Garment Industry has an advantage as it produces and exports

garments at economical prices due to the cheap labour rates. Today, by the way of

technological advancement and use of sophisticated machinery, it has enabled the

manufacturers to achieve better quality and well-designed garments. Exports have

been rising as there is an increase in orders from global buyers accompanied by a

rise of investments in the garment sector of the country. From all over the world the

retailers also increasingly come to India attracted by the low production costs. The

large brands among them are Wal-Mart, Tesco, and M&S. (Indian Garment Industry,

2011)

2
1.1 Topic for the study

Lean manufacturing is a systematic method that focuses on two major things:

optimising production and reduction of waste. “Value" is any action or process that a

customer would be willing to pay for. Lean is centred on making obvious what adds

value, by reducing everything else.

Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented process with a great range of raw

materials, product types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and

associated technologies. The manufacturing process starts from fabric inspection,

spreading, cutting, sewing, finishing, inspection and final packing.

Lean is most widely used in industries that are assembly-oriented or have a high

amount of repetitive human processes. These are typically industries for which

productivity is highly influenced by the efficiency and attention to detail of the people

who are working manually with tools or operating equipment. Garment industry is

such an example. It is an assembly-oriented labour-intensive industry. The

involvement of human element is the major cause of errors. For these kinds of

companies, improved systems can eliminate significant levels of waste or

inefficiency. Lean manufacturing, therefore, helps in reducing the wastes in the

process and improves the efficiencies.

1.2 Need for the study

Lean has benefitted various sectors like, aircraft, automobiles and healthcare. The

garment industries in Sri Lanka, Vietnam and Bangladesh have started practicing

Lean in order to improve their productivity and reduce the production cost. Indian

industries are lagging far behind in this context. The primary reason identified for that

is the awareness level of Lean in the industry.

3
1.3 Objective of the project

 To study the various Lean tools used in the garment manufacturing industry

 To study the awareness level of Lean tools in the Indian garment industry

(specifically Mumbai based industries)

 To study the challenges faced by the industry while implementing the Lean tools

 To analyse the current state of the garment industry with respect to Lean

implementation

4
 Chapter 2: Review of Literature

Since lean manufacturing eliminates many of the problems associated with poor

production scheduling and line balancing, it is most widely used in industries that are

assembly-oriented or have a high amount of repetitive human processes. These are

industries for which productivity is highly influenced by the efficiency and attention to

detail of the people who are working manually with tools or operating certain

equipment. For these kinds of companies, improved systems can identify and

eliminate significant levels of waste or inefficiency. Examples of these include wood

processing, garment manufacturing, automobile assembly, electronics assembly and

equipment manufacturing. (Ripon Kumar Chakrabortty, 2011)

Some companies in Vietnam actively conducted training and implemented lean

methods to eliminate process inefficiencies which resulted in an improvement to their

production and service lead times. (Introduction to Lean Manufacturing for Vietnam,

2004)

In a Lean production survey in Italy, the non-lean implementers were more focused

on process technology, automation and Information technology as a way to improve,

whereas the lean implementers gave more attention to Supply chain management,

and in general to managerial aspects. (Tantardini, 2007)

Wood products and furniture manufacturing industries have heard about terms like,

Lean management, Lean manufacturing, or Lean thinking, but are rarely aware of

individual Lean elements of which Lean consists. Few businesses thus have

implemented Lean. However, findings show that Lean awareness and Lean

implementation status differs between individual industry sub-segments. There have

5
been improvements regarding “on-time delivery”, “lead time”, “inventory turnover”

and “cost per unit” in their business when implementing Lean. Also, a very less

percentage of improvement was observed in “sales per employee,” a measure that

encourages doing more with less. (FRICKE, 2010)

In a research conducted in the automobile industries of India of a particular region, it

was observed that majority of the employees were well acquainted about the

process and functions which were being practiced by the organization. The quality

control and the production departments were mainly involved in the reduction of

wastes. It was also observed that the company had non-effective use of staff talents

and under-utilization of employees due to which effective involvement and buy-in

from all levels was not achieved. There was a need for an effective communication

plan. (Mehta, 2012)

In another literature concerned with the awareness and implementation levels of

Lean in the Nigerian small-scale industries like, wires and cables, food and drinks,

pharmaceuticals and agro-allied, it was found that the awareness and

implementation levels of 5S, Kaizen, Kanban pull system and value stream mapping

were very low whereas team work, staff training and visual management were

extremely known. Therefore their implementation levels were high. Lack of full

understanding of lean principles, high logistic problem in Nigeria, cost of

implementation and large communication gap between the manufacturers and their

suppliers and customers were identified as main barriers to full implementation of the

Lean Manufacturing tools within Nigerian Small-Scale Manufacturing Companies.

(Abioye, 2012)

6
2.1 5S

5S is more than a simple housekeeping initiative. 5S is a five-step process that

transforms a traditional work site into a visual factory and lays the foundation for a

Lean Enterprise System.

It can benefit any organization and brings unique benefits to the food and beverage

industry. It helps in minimising food safety risks for the customers. In a healthcare

organisation, 5S is a continuous mind set and not a short-term project.

Lean principles are as applicable in a service industry or the administrative offices as

they are in Manufacturing.

2.2 Just-in-time

Just-In-Time (JIT) operations and procurement strategy have two components:

formulation, and implementation and control. The most important elements for

successful implementation of the JIT production strategy are:

(1) top management commitment

(2) development of a JIT policy manual and

(3) development of a JIT procedure manual

(4) develop and implement a continuous JIT training program for employees at all

level

(5) develop and maintain a JIT circle involving key employee group representatives

(6) redesign the organization to make it flexible and dynamic for allowing JIT

permeate through the system, and

7
(7) develop and maintaining an effective communication and control system in order

to provide feed backs

(J.Bandyopadhyay, 1995)

Just-in-time (JIT) theory has been operated widely in the Japanese automobile

industry and the electronics industry.

JIT inventory is a strategy to increase efficiency and decrease waste by receiving

goods only as they are needed in the production process, thereby reducing inventory

costs. In other words, JIT inventory refers to an inventory management system with

objectives of having inventory readily available to meet demand, but not to a point of

excess where you must stockpile extra products. General Motors operates using JIT

inventory, relying on its supply chain to deliver the parts it needs to build cars. The

parts needed to manufacture the cars do not arrive before or after they are needed;

rather, they arrive just as they are needed. (Just in Time Inventory)

Dell’s approach to JIT was different in that they leverage their suppliers to achieve

the JIT goal. They are also unique in that Dell is able to provide exceptionally short

lead times to their customers, by forcing their suppliers to carry inventory instead of

carrying it themselves and then demanding (and receiving) short lead times on

components so that products can be simply assembled by Dell quickly and then

shipped to the customer.

Harley Davidson’s use of JIT is mostly characterized by its transformation in the late

World War 2 era from an inefficient manufacturer that solved all of its problems with

extra inventory to a nimble manufacturer able to meet demand and provide short

lead times. (Wilson, 2013)

8
2.3 Kaizen

In Japanese, Kaizen means improvement. At Toyota related companies, suggesting

and implementing kaizen on a regular basis is part of the system. In other words, it is

standardized. In a Kaizen-centered business, employees are broken into teams,

each serving as the expert in a particular area and being responsible for its role in

the company’s overall success.

Examples of Kaizen in a hospital include: Children under the age of 5 years are

constantly crying during their treatment. Tiny bottles of bubble are given to the

parents to blow so that the children get distracted.

Attaching Velcro strips to the curtains in any organisation/hospital is also a Kaizen

example.

2.4 Kanban

Uncertainties brought about by fluctuations in demand and customers’ requirements

have led many established companies to improve their manufacturing process by

adopting the Kanban system. By doing so, they are able to manufacture and supply

the right product, in the right quantity, at the right place and time. Implementation of

the Kanban system resulted in reduction of inventory to minimum levels besides

increasing flexibility of manufacturing. Successful implementation of the Kanban

system furthermore reduces operational costs, consequently increases market

competitiveness.

The Kanban system is basically an inventory stock control system that triggers

production signals for product based on actual customers’ requirements and

demand. The system is controlled by the Kanban card which dictates the optimum

9
production parameters. It is used to authorize production of any product to replenish

those already consumed by the customer or subsequent process. (Adnan, 2013)

For implementing the Kanban method, the most important decision is the number of

kanbans (labels) that are to be used. That depends on: the size of the manufacturing

lot (request), the number of components of a certain type that are included in the

final product and the time norm.

2.5 Modular Layout

The production process is subdivided into semi-autonomous cells, with each

responsible for making complete products or complex parts. The advantage of cell

manufacturing is that work areas are ergonomically optimised to work as efficiently

as possible - minimising waste in both inventory and labour. It is estimated that cell

manufacturing can typically reduce labour by 20-30%, and reduce lead times by half.

(Cellular Manufacturing)

Examples of modular systems are cars, computers, process systems, solar

panels and wind turbines, elevators and modular buildings.

Modular buildings can be added to or reduced in size by adding or removing certain

components. This can be done without altering larger portions of the building.

Modular buildings can also undergo changes in functionality using the same process

of adding or removing modular components.

In the fast food industry, the greatest example is McDonalds. It is really a mini

manufacturing plant – different work cells prepare various “components” there is an

assembly area, there is a supply chain coupled with “customer support” (i.e. the

sales clerk). (What Can A Manufacturing Plant Learn From McDonald’s)

10
In a children’s hospital, a mobile triage cart was designed that eliminating the need

for separate triage rooms, reducing the need to move patients and families, and

creating an additional 4 exam rooms. In this case, the cart became the mobile work

cell. (Maaseidvaag)

2.6 Poka Yoke

In the process of manufacturing of air duct, through the blow moulding technology,

excess material is removed manually with the help of a sharp knife. The removal

process is totally dependent on the worker’s skill so there are high chances of

improper removal which rejects the material. The human error elimination is required

in such a way that it eliminates the error. (Parikshit, February 2013)

The socket for USB on the computer is designed in such a way that the pen drive or

any corresponding pin cannot be connected in opposite or wrong way. It is a control

poka yoke system. (Patil, February 2013)

In service sector, service quality has become a key strategic variable in

organizational efforts to both satisfy and retain present customers and also to attract

new customers. However, some aspects of service, for example relating to employee

actions and customer attitudes, are outside the control of managers. As a result,

service failure is inevitable, sometimes mistakes will happen or things will go wrong,

and so service recovery action is needed to deal with the mistake or problem and to

restore customer satisfaction. The importance of service recovery reinforces the

need for organisations to find approaches that are effective in both identifying service

failure and in developing strategies to recover successfully.

11
Bus station benches are designed as sequential chairs with fixed armrests to prevent

transients from sleeping on them, and hotels use paper strips around clean linens to

ensure the detection of use by housekeeping.

In many services such as a conference, the organizers are usually asked to wear

uniforms with different colours or to use representation cards in different colours.

Therefore, the audiences could easily access the responsible persons. Other

examples include personnel in banks, hotels, etc. Also, the variety of colour could be

useful in distinguishing the departments. For instance, in a hospital using different

colour bands in buildings, directs patients to their destinations.

Using different shelves for storing goods with different sizes in department stores or

different books in libraries. For instance, in some libraries, such as the Robinson

library at the University of Newcastle, even the floors separates different sizes of

books; large books are available in level 2 and ordinary ones are in level 3; old

journals are available in level 3 and new ones (since 5 years ago) are in level 4.

In some supermarkets when people want to use trolleys, they should put a coin in a

small box on them to release one. Once their shopping is finished and they want to

leave there, they turn back the trolley to the specific area outside the supermarket

and by locking it to other trolleys, they could collect their coin back. This helps the

supermarket to better manage the internal space. (Shahin, November 2010)

While enhancing the Overall Equipment Effectiveness of a shot-peening machine,

the improvement areas were identified and then Kaizen and Poka-yoke tools were

used to eliminate the root causes. The example of poka yoke includes use of

proximity sensors, switches and indicators to automatically shut down the motors.

(Badiger)

12
2.7 Single Minute Exchange of Dies

SMED is widely practiced in the automotive sector. It helps in achieving almost 30%

reduction in the production cost. (Joshi, 2012)

In the healthcare sector, the signout process is improved with the help of SMED.

Labs can be brought up ahead of time, radiologic films can be ready and waiting and

a teaching point of the day can be prepared from the night's events, typed, and

printed for discussion. In this way the team is focused on the single, relevant

message for the day instead of thirty ad-hoc teaching points. (Kashmer D. )

A packaging company wanted to achieve results similar to a steel company. Their

inventory was more than needed. Their lead times were too long, costs were too

high, and delivery performance was not world class. Rapid change-over (SMED) was

the target to be achieved that helped in installing a culture of continuous

improvement along with other benefits.

2.8 Single Piece Flow

Dr. Sami Bahri, the “World’s First Lean Dentist” continuously pursued a singular

mission: “to provide patients with the correct treatment they need, when they need it,

in the right quantity that they need it, while eliminating anything that interrupts or

delays this flow.”

Dr. Bahri and his team refer to their vision as “single patient flow.” Do not make the

patient wait anywhere. This single-minded goal has been the compass for many

small improvements including a pull system to manage a flow of material, information

and treatment to the patient. Quick change instrument trays assure that most dental

procedures can be completed at a single seating. Visual controls alert a thoroughly

cross-trained staff of dental assistants, hygienists, front office specialists and dentists

13
when help is needed. Daily improvement and problem-solving occur through morning

meetings and on-the-spot adjustments. (Bahri, 2011)

2.9 Six Sigma

Six Sigma goes in to the details of improving customer service, generating business

expansion and gaining knowledge about the service sectors business processes.

Most service industries revolve around areas of finance, human resources and sales

and marketing. Hence, Six Sigma delves deeply into the subject of soft skills.

Six Sigma can be applied to a company that provides housekeeping services.

Six Sigma is useful in the field of sales and marketing as well. According to Six

Sigma data, during sales, too much face time with a customer can prove to be

counter-productive. Changing this process can result in an increase in the

percentage of sales per product.

Other industries that Six Sigma has benefitted are the financial service sector,

insurance companies, management companies, educational institutions, high-tech

companies, state agencies and many more. (Six Sigma For The Service Sector)

In healthcare sector, Six Sigma projects have reduced the number of defects in

specific areas, including the nurse charting process and patient throughput in

radiology. (isixsigma)

2.10 Standard Operating Procedure

Standard Operating Procedures (SOP) is a process document that describes in

detail the way that an operator should perform a given operation. SOPs involve the

purpose of the operation, the equipment and materials required, how to perform the

set-up and operations required for the process, how to perform the maintenance and

14
shutdown operations carried out by the worker, a description of safety issues,

trouble-shooting, a list of spare parts and where to find them, illustrations, and

checklists. The SOP is one of many process documents which is needed for

consistent operation of a given process, with other documents involving process flow

charts, material specifications, and so forth.

The purpose of SOPs is to guarantee that all workers are performing tasks in the

same way, which is a needed for condition to get expected output from the process.

When all workers perform their tasks constantly, it becomes possible to run

controlled experiments to test the impact of changing various process parameters.

When a process change is shown to improve process performance, SOPs are

updated and workers are trained to the new procedures. All over the process, it is

important to involve workers in SOP development and to praise worker ideas for the

SOP improvement.

SOPs are used by the governmental agencies, private industry, and academic

laboratories by scientists and engineers from all of the science, technology,

engineering, and mathematical disciplines. SOPs can also be intensely valuable in

academic laboratories and can be employed anytime there is process that likely

more than one person will use in a research group. (Akyar)

In the hotel industry where excellent, consistent service is a key factor in success,

standard operating procedures play an important role. A hotel standard operating

procedure's purpose is to improve guest experience. Standard operating procedures

do this by educating hotel staff on the best way to deal with a given situation, from

fielding guest complaints to handling fire drills.

15
In the competitive hotel industry, a standard operating procedure ensures that a

hotel keeps the promises made in its marketing materials and advertisements.

Standard operating procedures also ensure that guests get the same treatment each

time they visit the hotel Having SOPs also provides a foundation for hotel employees'

performance evaluations. (Roberts)

In a call centre setting, SOPs define everything from staffing schedules to handling

workload and call load forecasting to specifying how calls should be reviewed,

monitored and scored. SOPs aid call centres in pursuing compliance, reducing

complexity and meeting business objectives. (Williams)

In a skin care clinic, the employees can provide consistent services to the customers

only when the procedures for facials and other skin care treatments are listed clearly.

Use of an SOP also minimizes the confusion among staff members in regards to

chemical handling and emergency procedures that are specific to the clinic. (Bartle)

2.11 Takt time

Takt means rhythm. In a hospital, the patients do not arrive in a rhythmic fashion.

Rather, they come in waves. The biggest wave is between 3pm and 9pm due to rush

hour traffic accidents, parents picking up sick kids from daycare and so on. The

smallest wave is usually 3am to 9am. So the patients arrive 2-3/hour at off-peak

times and 10/hour at peak times.

Takt time can be determined as the total available time to work divided by the

demand for a situation. That is, if, after breaks and other issues there is one hour

available in a day to actually do work and there are three patients that usually show

up to the hospital (the demand on that system) in that hour to be admitted, the takt

time for admissions is one third of an hour per every admission. Said differently, it’s

16
1 hour available to do admissions / 3 admissions to be done. That is one third of 60

minutes or approximately 20 minutes per admission. Such concepts give an idea of

what the drumbeat of the system needs to be. (Lean Healthcare)

2.12 Total Productive Maintenance

A major hospital in Jordan developed a TPM implementation methodology for

increasing medical devices utilization and decreasing their failures. The developed

employees’ working system and new responsibilities were explained through

Autonomous Maintenance (AM), Preventive Maintenance (PM), and 5S Modelling,

with a suggestion for additional working performance indicators. (Haddad, 2012)

2.13 Value stream mapping

Takt time can be paired with a visual diagram of the process, called as a value

stream map. Value stream mapping is very useful to understand the processes and

services in a better way. A value stream map gives an idea of how the speed at

which the process usually performs compared to takt time. If takt time is 20 minutes

per 1 admission, yet it usually takes us 40 minutes per 1 admission, there is a clear

need to cut wasted time and improve the process speed to be closer to takt time.

The discrepancies between the takt time, which is the drumbeat required, and the

actual time to produce what we are trying to produce can then be removed.

(Kashmer)

2.14 Visual controls

Visual elements in a workplace have a tremendous impact on education, morale,

and productivity. A visually dynamic workplace energizes employees, builds pride

and ownership, and conveys the strength and currency of the organization.

17
Visual controls are means, devices, or mechanisms that were designed to manage

or control our operations (processes) so as to meet the purposes: informative,

identification, instructional and planning.

Different examples of visual controls used in various industries are: visual control

boards, shadow board, inventory control, level scales, visual workstation, colour

codes and andon displays. (Mokal)

Garment industry

The Indian garment industry has a decentralized production structure -

subcontracting, which is low risk and low capital. The mass market for clothing

demands consistent quality for large volumes of a single item. Eliminating waste

along entire value streams, instead of at isolated points, creates processes that need

less human effort, less space, less capital, and less time to make products and

services at far less costs and with much fewer defects, compared with traditional

business systems. Companies are able to respond to changing customer desires

with high variety, high quality, low cost, and with very fast throughput times. Also,

information management becomes much simpler and more accurate. (Institute, What

is Lean)

Lean implementation

In a particular garment export unit, an uncontrollable work-in-progress was observed

in the jacket line. To address this issue, the managers began timing different

operations and rebalancing workloads, with the goal of getting each line operator to

accomplish his task in the same “Takt” time, that is, if one worker took 30 seconds to

complete a task and another 90, they were both moved toward 60.

18
Movement of pieces was reduced from quantities of ten to a one-piece flow, enabling

the team to immediately identify the source of any problems and therefore improve

quality. By the end of a week, the number of jackets produced each day had

increased from 250 to 400 and the defect rate had decreased from 7-10 percent to 3-

4 percent.

The Lean team worked to address recurring problems with quality and equipment,

monitoring output on an hourly basis. Work-in-progress levels were adjusted at

critical points, eventually dropping by 60 percent, and packing was incorporated at

the end of the production line. Renewed emphasis was placed on quality assurance.

Productivity improved by 42 percent, increasing from 2.1 to 3 units per-person per-

day, and first-pass yield (the share of products with no rework) rose from 85 to 92

percent. (Business, 2013)

19
 Chapter 3: Methodology

The research is Exploratory in nature and the data collection is done in two steps.

Secondary data collection

The secondary data includes the extensive study, with the help of published and

unpublished articles, journals and books, of the various Lean tools and their

implementation in different industries.

The case studies of the Lean tool implementation in different industries are studied

to understand the way in which the tool is interpreted as the industry changes. This

helps in identifying how the customization of Lean tools is carried out.

Primary data collection

A questionnaire, designed as per the KAP (Knowledge, Attitude, Practice) Survey

model, is circulated in the garment manufacturing industries in Mumbai, so as to

understand the actual situation on the shop floor.

The KAP is a representative survey conducted on a particular population to identify

the knowledge (K), attitudes (A) and practices (P) of a population on a specific topic.

K: Knowledge is a set of understandings, knowledge and of science. It is also one’s

capacity for imagining, one’s way of perceiving. The degree of knowledge assessed

by the survey helps to locate areas where information and education efforts remain

to be exerted.

A: Attitude is a way of being, a position. These are leanings or “tendencies to”. This

is an intermediate variable between the situation and the response to this situation. It

20
helps explain that among the possible practices for a subject submitted to a stimulus,

that subject adopts one practice and not another. Attitudes are not directly

observable as are practices, therefore they are assessed..

P: Practices or behaviours are the observable actions of an individual in response to

a stimulus. This is something that deals with the concrete, with actions. For practices

related to health, one collects information on consumption of tobacco or alcohol, the

practice of screening, vaccination practices, sporting activities, sexuality etc.

Survey design

Target population: Garment industries in Mumbai

The objective of the research is covered by the target population.

Sample: Garment industries in Andheri and Dadar zones

The sample is the subset of the population that helps in the correct determination of

the survey result. The result of the sample can easily be assumed as the result of the

total population.

Sampling technique: Simple random sampling

This avoids any bias during the selection of the samples. The industries are

randomly chosen and the questionnaires are sent.

Sample size: 50

Null hypothesis- The garment manufacturers are completely aware of the concepts

of Lean manufacturing.

21
Alternative hypothesis- The garment manufacturers are not completely aware of the

concepts of Lean manufacturing.

The questionnaires were circulated in the selected industries and then the data was

recorded with the help of SPSS software.

22
 Survey Questionnaire

I, ShivaniPandey from NIFT Mumbai, am doing a survey on the topic “Awareness of

the concepts of Lean Manufacturing in Garment industry” for my Research Project. I

would request you to please spare some time and fill up this questionnaire. I would

be grateful to you for this help. All the data collected will be used for educational

purpose only.

1. What is the basic level of education of the following in your organization?

Mid-level managers
Supervisors
Operators

2. What is the awareness level of Lean in your organization?

Only top-level managers

Top and mid-level managers
Top-level managers, mid-level managers and supervisors
Top-level managers, mid-level managers, supervisors and operator
Others, ____________________________________________

3. Do you agree that implementing Lean manufacturing techniques has organizational

benefits?

Strongly Neither agree Strongly agree

disagree nor disagree

4. Some Lean tools are mentioned below. Please tick the appropriate practices
followed in your organization and the reasons for the same.

Tools Practices Reasons for Measures

not taken for
Lean system Traditional practicing future
system Lean

5S Organized Workplace
workplace not properly
organized

23
 Just-in-Time All the Some
(JIT) orders are orders get
delivered on- delayed
time

Kaizen Continuous Not much

small emphasis on
improvements analysing the
are made in the process and
production improving it
process

Kanban Signboards No visual

showing the representation
production of the
details are production
placed on the process
floor

Modular layout Team- Long

based assembly lines
approach for for production
production

Poka yoke Analysing No

the repetitive attention paid
error and taking towards
measures to mistake
prevent it in proofing the
future system

Single Minute Style Not much

Exchange of changeover efforts taken to
time reduced to reduce the
Dies (SMED)
less than 10 changeover
minutes time

Single Piece Single Bundle is

Flow piece is passed passed on from
on from each each
workstation workstation

24
 Six Sigma Constant No
efforts to attention
reduce the towards
defect rate reducing the
defect rate

Standard Carefully No such

Operating planned steps procedures are
for each followed
Procedure
process
(SOP)

Takt Time Matching Production

the production rate lags behind
time with the the demand
demand rate rate

Total Productive Machine Machine

Maintenance maintenance maintenance
carried out done when
(TPM)
regularly required

Value Stream Identifying Value

Mapping (VSM) the value stream is not
stream and properly
streamlining it identified

Visual Controls The No visual

workplace has identifiers
visual details placed in the
for the products workplace
and processes

Out of the above mentioned Lean tools, how many were you already aware of?
5S Single piece flow Takt Time

Just-in-Time Six Sigma Total Productive

Kaizen Single Minute Maintenance

Kanban Exchange of Dies Value Stream Mapping

Modular layout Standard Operating Visual Controls

Poka yoke Procedure

25
5. Lean identifies different types of wastes in an organization. Which of the following
wastes have you observed in your organization?

Wastes Lean Traditional

Transportation
Properly planned The departments are
industry helps in reducing not located in a planned
the transportation way. Therefore, the
material has to be
transported a lot.
Inventory
Minimum inventory Extra inventory is
level is planned and maintained, for
stocked emergencies
Motion
The operators’ The operator
motions are ergonomically performs the operation in
checked any way he desires
Waiting
No delay observed in The operator
the passing of garment completes the operation
panels from one and waits to get the next
workstation to another piece

Over production
Only the specified Production is always
amount of excess done in excess to make up
production is done for the rejections and
defects
Over processing
The operations The same operations
specific to the garment are are performed on all types
performed of garments produced
Defects
Strive to achieve No efforts to reduce
defect-free production the defect rate

Manpower
Employee training and Not utilising the
skill development is done employee skills efficiently

26
 Absenteeism
The production floor High rate of
seldom faces efficiency absenteeism among the
issues due to absenteeism operators affects the floor
efficiency.

6. What types of garments are manufactured in your company? __________________

7. Do you ever observe bottlenecks (high demand, low supply) in the production?

If yes, please mention the specific garment and the respective bottleneck (critical)
operation.

8. How do you manage the bottleneck operation?

Increase the number of machines
Increase the number of operators
Introduce templates for the operation, if possible
Others, please specify ________________________________

27
 Chapter 4: Data Analysis and Interpretation

Table 4.1 shows the frequency of the basic education level of the employees in the

companies surveyed. 72% of the surveyed companies prefer graduates and diploma

holders as the minimum requirement for the selection process. If the workforce is

properly educated, even a small training can help them in understanding the

procedures. This is a representation of the Knowledge of the industries.

Table 4.1 Education Level

Frequency Percent Valid Percent Cumulative

Percent

12th pass 9 18.0 18.0 18.0

Graduate 18 36.0 36.0 54.0

Post graduate 5 10.0 10.0 64.0

Technical Diploma 18 36.0 36.0 100.0

Total 50 100.0 100.0

Graph 4.1 Education Level

Education level

12th pass
Graduate
Post graduate
Technical Diploma

28
Table 4.2 shows the awareness level of Lean in the industries. The theoretical

awareness level can be clearly observed as to be 92% but the actual practical

awareness is observed only in 64% of the industries. Middle management is

responsible for the ultimate Lean implementation in the industries because the top

management is only there to guide them. Therefore, the industries in which the

middle management is properly educated, trained and aware are most likely to be

Lean. This is a representation of the Knowledge of the industries.

Table 4.2 Awareness of Lean Manufacturing

Frequency Percent Valid Cumulative

Percent Percent

1: Only top-level managers 14 28.0 28.0 28.0

2: Top and mid-level managers 25 50.0 50.0 78.0

3: Top-level managers, mid-level managers

7 14.0 14.0 92.0
and supervisors

4: Top-level managers, mid-level managers,

4 8.0 8.0 100.0
supervisors and operator

Total 50 100.0 100.0

Graph 4.2 Awareness of Lean Manufacturing

Awareness levels

Level 1 Level 2

Level 3 Level 4

29
Table 4.3 shows the Attitude of the industries towards Lean benefits. 54% of the

industries are unaware of the exact nature of Lean operations so they cannot

comment if Lean is beneficial or not. This might also point out the poor nature of

training provided in the garment industries.

Table 4.3 Organizational Benefits

Frequency Percent Valid Percent Cumulative

Percent

Strongly disagree 6 12.0 12.0 12.0

Neither agree nor disagree 27 54.0 54.0 66.0

Strongly agree 17 34.0 34.0 100.0

Total 50 100.0 100.0

Graph 4.3 Organizational benefits of Lean

Organizational benefits of Lean

Strongly disagree

Neither

Strongly agree

Table 4.4 displays the prevalent manufacturing Practice in the industries. It is

calculated with the help of the Lean tools. Whichever company chooses greater

number of the tools, from their description, follows a Lean system. Surprisingly, 60%

of the industries claim to follow Lean system as compared to a Traditional system

30
 Table 4.4 Practice Followed

Frequency Percent Valid Percent Cumulative Percent

Lean 30 60.0 60.0 60.0

Traditional 20 40.0 40.0 100.0

Total 50 100.0 100.0

Graph 4.4 Practice followed

Practice followed

Lean Traditional

Table 4.4a shows the number of Lean tools known based on their descriptions. This

is the basis of decision for the practice followed (Table 4.4) in the organisation.

About 54% of the industries practice an average number of lean tools. The cross

tabulation in Table 4.4b explain the situation in a better way. The maximum Lean

followers practice an average of 6-10 tools.

Table 4.4a Lean Tools known

Frequency Percent Valid Percent Cumulative Percent

1-5 13 26.0 26.0 26.0

6-10 27 54.0 54.0 80.0

11-14 10 20.0 20.0 100.0

Total 50 100.0 100.0

31
 Graph 4.4a Lean tools known

Tools known

Less than 5 tools

6-10 tools

11-14 tools

Table 4.4b Practice followed * Lean tools known

Lean tools known Total

1-5 6-10 11-14

Lean 0 20 10 30
Practice followed
Traditional 13 7 0 20
Total 13 27 10 50

Graph 4.4b Practice followed * Lean tools known

32
Table 4.5 tabulates the frequency of Lean tools that the industry was already aware

of, in terms of the terminologies. The survey shows that about 50% of the surveyed

industries were aware of most of the Lean tools. Also, in the cross tabulation it was

observed that the most common situation was that the industries followed Lean

system (average number of tools known) but they were aware of most of the Lean

tools.

The common tools like 5S, Visual controls are followed by almost all the industries.

The typical Lean tools like Six Sigma, SMED need to be customized as per the

manufacturing setup and then implemented.

Table 4.5 Lean Tools already aware

Frequency Percent Valid Percent Cumulative Percent

1-5 18 36.0 36.0 36.0

6-10 7 14.0 14.0 50.0

11-14 25 50.0 50.0 100.0

Total 50 100.0 100.0

Graph 4.5 Lean tools already aware

Tools already aware

Less than 5 tools

6-10 tools
11-14 tools

33
 Table 4.5a Lean tools known * Lean tools already aware

Lean tools already aware Total

1-5 6-10 11-14

1-5 4 2 7 13

Lean tools known 6-10 5 4 18 27

11-14 9 1 0 10

Total 18 7 25 50

Graph 4.5a Lean tools known * Lean tools already aware

Table 4.6 gives an insight into the Lean implementation as per the different category

of garments produced. The data clearly indicates that the companies prefer Lean

only in standard garments like men’s shirts etc. The construction is simpler as

compared to complex garments like kids wear and high fashion garments.

34
 Table 4.6 Practice followed * Apparel Produced

Apparel Produced Total

Ladies Kids Party Casual Hi-Fashion Men’s Printed T-

Wear Wear Wear Wear Garments Wear shirts

Lean 1 0 5 8 3 13 0 30
Practice
Traditio
followed 6 2 1 5 1 4 1 20
nal
Total 7 2 6 13 4 17 1 50

Graph 4.6 Practice followed * Apparel Produced

The cross tabulation in the Table 4.7 points out that that the awareness level of Lean in

the companies, where graduate is the minimum requirement, is the most. Also, it is

spread in different employee levels too.

35
 Table 4.7 Education level * Awareness of lean Manufacturing

Awareness of Lean Manufacturing Total

Only top-level Top and mid- Top-level Top-level

managers level managers managers, managers,

mid-level mid-level

managers and managers,

supervisors supervisors

and operator

12th pass 5 1 3 0 9

Graduate 3 15 0 0 18
Education
Post Graduate 3 2 0 0 5
Level
Technical
3 7 4 4 18
Diploma

Total 14 25 7 4 50

Graph 4.7 Education level * Awareness of lean Manufacturing

36
Lean identifies different types of wastes in an organization. For the garment industry

the wastes are: Transportation, Inventory, Motion, Waiting, Over production, Over

processing, Defects, Manpower and Absenteeism. The following tables define the

different wastes with the practice followed.

Table 4.8a Practice followed * Transportation Waste

Transportation Waste Total

Yes No

Lean 4 26 30
Practice followed
Traditional 8 12 20

Total 12 38 50

Table 4.8b Practice followed * Inventory Waste

Inventory Waste Total

Yes No

Lean 13 17 30
Practice followed
Traditional 13 7 20

Total 26 24 50

Table 4.8c Practice followed * Motion Waste

Motion Waste Total

Yes No

Lean 7 23 30
Practice followed
Traditional 10 10 20

Total 17 33 50

37
 Table 4.8d Practice followed * Waiting Waste

Waiting Waste Total

Yes No

Lean 10 20 30
Practice followed
Traditional 14 6 20

Total 24 26 50

Table 4.8e Practice followed * Over production Waste

Over production Waste Total

Yes No

Lean 9 21 30
Practice followed
Traditional 13 7 20

Total 22 28 50

Table 4.8f Practice followed * Over Processing

Over Processing Total

Yes No

Lean 3 27 30
Practice followed
Traditional 9 11 20

Total 12 38 50

Table 4.8g Practice followed * Defects Waste

Defects Waste Total

Yes No

Lean 9 21 30
Practice followed
Traditional 10 10 20

Total 19 31 50

38
 Table 4.8h Practice followed * Manpower Waste

Manpower Waste Total

Yes No

Lean 8 22 30
Practice followed
Traditional 9 11 20

Total 17 33 50

Table 4.8i Practice followed * Absenteeism Waste

Absenteeism Waste Total

Yes No

Lean 12 18 30
Practice followed
Traditional 15 5 20

Total 27 23 50

The most prominent wastes observed were: Inventory, Waiting, Defects and

Absenteeism. These are specific to the garment industry and are observed even

after implementing Lean.

Bottlenecks are observed in every process. Garment manufacturing is a complex

process where a lot of elements are involved; therefore, bottlenecks are created in

the critical operations. Managing the bottleneck is an essential step in Lean

implementation.

Table 4.9 categorises the different types of apparel produced and the respective

bottleneck area for each. The most widely manufactured garments were men’s wear

and casual wear and the bottlenecks were observed in the finishing process.

39
 Table 4.9 Apparel Produced * Bottleneck Area

Bottleneck Area Total

Embroideries Finishing Collar Printing Arm Embellishments

Holes

Ladies Wear 2 4 0 0 1 0 7

Kids Wear 0 2 0 0 0 0 2

Party Wear 3 2 0 0 0 1 6

Casual Wear 0 6 5 0 2 0 13
Apparel
Hi-Fashion
Produced 0 0 0 0 0 4 4
Garments

Men’s Wear 1 9 4 1 2 0 17

Printed T-
0 0 0 1 0 0 1
shirts
Total 6 23 9 2 5 5 50

Table 4.10 shows the different ways of managing the bottlenecks according to the

practice followed. Maximum industries, irrespective of the practice, increase the

number of operators in order to match the supply with demand.

Table 4.10 Practice followed * Bottleneck Management

Bottleneck Management Total

Increase no. of Increase no. of Introduce Others

Machines Operators Templates for
operations

Lean 9 11 9 1 30
Practice followed
Traditional 7 8 5 0 20
Total 16 19 14 1 50

40
 Chapter 5: Results and Outcome

The result of the survey will represent the result of the research. A KAP survey helps

in understanding the three aspects of the study performed on the target group.

KNOWLEDGE

 The minimum educational requirement to work in a garment industry at the

implementation levels is Graduation or a Technical Degree. This means that

starting from the supervisor level, the workforce is educated so that training

them for new concepts is easier and they can understand it in a better way.

Also, they can provide their own inputs in the improvement processes of the

industry.

 Since the middle management is technically sound, the awareness level of

Lean is 64% on a practical basis and 92% on theoretical grounds.

 60% of the industries practice Lean manufacturing. Their knowledge of the

actual terminologies is not up to the mark but they implement the Lean tools.

ATTITUDE

 54% of the industries do not agree or disagree with the opinion that Lean

benefits the organization. The reason for such attitude is the training provided

to them. This results in improper implementation of the tools as they are not

aware of the exact nature of the tools.

 Even after implementing a few Lean tools, the industries have a tendency of

shifting back to the traditional setup. This is portrayed by the method used to

tackle the bottlenecks.

41
  The types of Lean tools implemented define the attitude of the people on the

implementation side. The tools like 5S, visual controls, kaizen are simple as

compared to Six Sigma, SMED and JIT. These require a careful

understanding of the process and its elements and are then customized

accordingly.

PRACTICE

 The way in which a garment industry functions is difficult to describe. Even

after knowing most of the tools the implementation is not carried out.

 The wastes identified by Lean are prevalent still. The top management is not

active enough to bring about such changes in the industry.

 The critical operations of each setup are identified and then the bottlenecks

managed. The way might be a traditional one or a lean one.

The above points show that the garment industry is more of a mix and match

situation. Even after defining a process clearly there exist some elements that are

entirely dependent on the human labour. Such elements bring about the discrepancy

in the setup.

Therefore, the null hypothesis, that is, the garment manufacturers are completely

aware of the concepts of Lean manufacturing is accepted.

42
 Chapter 6: Limitations of the study

Lean is not a one-time event but a cyclic process. It takes time to implement and

then get the final result.

Garment industry has a decentralized setup. The professionalism of each industry is

dependent on its managers. Therefore, the decision and extent of Lean

implementation depends on them.

Also, the industry is spread all over India and each zone has its own characteristics.

Therefore, implementing Lean might have its own advantages and disadvantages in

each of these zones.

The resistance in the attitude of the responsible authorities also is a major setback in

the implementation process. They tend to slide back to the traditional setup.

43
 Chapter 7: Future scope of the study

With the increased number of educated and technically sound workforce joining the

garment industry, there is a scope for better understanding of the Lean concepts.

Effective training and seminars by the industry specialists might help in

understanding the intricacies of each tool with respect to the garment industry. In the

near future, the awareness level of Lean in the garment industry might increase from

64% to 94%, if such steps are taken.

This study is focussed only on the manufacturing aspect of the industry. Efforts can

be taken to implement lean in the other sectors of the garment industry as well. That

would help in an overall development of the garment industry.

44
 Chapter 8: Conclusion

India needs to perform competitively in the international trade. Though the exports

have grown over the past few years but the rate in which they increased is not the

same now. The retail market is in the limelight now and in order to match the

competition globally, the Indian garment industry has to take some efforts with

respect to Lean. It is the only fruitful way to increase the output without investing in

the input.

The government is taking steps by providing reservation for the domestic corporate

houses but it would not be for long. A time might come when the foreign brands will

rule the Indian market. To prevent that situation, it is time that the authorities take

Lean manufacturing seriously.

45
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50
APPENDICES

(Data Tables)

I
II
III
IV
V