Discover Cambodia 2017 PDF

annual 2017
travel edition
The Essence of Cambodia Volume 6, USD6
100
TIPS
+
on where to eat, sleep,
drink and explore
dreaming big
meet the community transforming
kampot into a creative hub
into the unknown

delve into the hidden temples and
serene country life of kampong thom
secrets of
a kingdom
enjoy a fresh perspective on
2 0 0 7 0 3 0 0 0 0 0 4 6
the majesty of angkor

M A KIN G T IM E
Royal Palace Park, Phnom Penh
A S E N S E O F P L AC E ® . RO S E WO O D P H N O M P E N H O P E N S E A R LY 2 017.
VATTANAC C AP ITAL TOW ER, 66 MO NIVO NG B O U LEVARD,
S ANGK AT WAT P HNO M, K HAN DAU N P ENH
+855 23 936 888 | phnompenh.reservations@rosewoodhotels.com | rosewoodhotels.com
DIM SUM
BUSINESS LUNCH
SAVOUR MORE THAN 20 TYPES OF DIM SUM

AND ENJOY THE PERFECT BUSINESS LUNCH
FOR $15 ONLY
MONDAY TO FRIDAY
FROM 11.30AM TO 2.30PM
PRICES ARE EXCLUSIVE OF TAXES AND SERVICES CHARGE
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tel. +855(0) 23 999 200 - H6526-FB2@SOFITEL.COM
WWW.SOFITEL.COM
EDITORIAL
T
he sun is setting. Dazzling
oranges and vivid pinks
form a brilliant backdrop
to temples constructed
more than a thousand
years ago. Millions of eyes have gazed
upon this scene, yet still it feels other-
worldly, a single stitch in time’s eternal
tapestry reserved just for you.
The majesty of the Angkor temples
is so often the catalyst for a first date
with Cambodia, but there are countless
reasons why so many of us fall in love.
Perhaps it is the unmistakable scent
of optimism that now permeates this
nation of 15 million people. While the
Kingdom’s tragic recent history will
never be forgotten, many locals seem de-
termined to grasp the country’s relative
stability to secure a brighter future. Of
course, the capital is at the forefront of
this transformation, with luxury brands
jostling for position in shiny shopping
malls and slick condo developments ris-
ing in every corner of the city.
For those who favour simple
pleasures, a 20-minute drive from any
urban centre is all it takes to be firm-
ly deposited in a land where life drifts
on as it has for hundreds of years.
Buffaloes haul weathered wooden carts
along crimson dirt roads and children
cackle as their threadbare football
sends a gaggle of chickens scarpering
every which way. Even the Kingdom’s
increasingly popular islands are, thank-
fully, just about holding onto their
untouched allure.
Finally, there are those smiles. Broad
and unabashed, they are often wielded
in the most testing of situations, and
finding oneself in a land where a smile
is the go-to expression is refreshing and
beguiling in equal measure.
This is Cambodia, whose juxtaposi-
tions make it the enchanting destination
it is today: a rapidly modernising history
lesson; a desperately poor millionaire’s
playground; a natural beauty whose
Photo: Darren Wilch
scars run deep. Who knows which side

you will encounter today, but we hope
our recommendations will be the first
step in your very own love story.
6 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

Discover CONTENTS
Discover
26 The Essence of Cambodia
Publisher Tassilo Brinzer
Editor in Chief Dene Mullen
Editor Holly Robertson
Designers Fanny Duru, Vathana Phon, Navet Tab
Contributors
Euan Black, Sam Bradpiece, Logan Connor, Thomas Cristofoletti,
44
Ellie Dyer, Sam Jam, Jack Malipan, Joanna Mayhew,
Paul Millar, Natalie Phillips, Ryan Drewe Taylor, Darren Wilch
Vittorio Velasquez, Lola Garcia-Ajofrin
Photos: Sam Jam for Discover (3); Thomas Cristofoletti for Discover (1)
Accounting Chry Soklay
Administration Assistant Neol Chansy
Distribution Yim Soukmenghout
Online Director Poeudore Sophan
Business Manager Chea Eak Muy
Sales and Marketing Director Paul D. Weinert
Marketing Manager Jessica Scalzo
48 56
Business Development Manager Yitong Zhou
Published by
Globe Media Asia
Southeastern Globe
Communications Ltd.
#6A Street 294, 12301
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Tel: +855 (0)23 223 747
About Cambodia
16 Capturing a Kingdom 42 Cultural crusade
Fine photography from around the country The national museum’s director on preserving a Kingdom
discover-cambodia.com
22 on the map 44 a life less ordinary
Get to grips with getting around Arn Chorn-Pond on keeping classical art forms alive
On the cover
Photographer: Sam Jam
24 the rest is history 48 masters of tomorrow Styling: Ryan Drewe Taylor
at the Dollhouse
Snaking through Cambodia’s past Meet the country’s most promising young chefs Model: Kol Soksolita
Dress: A.N.D
Necklaces: Paperdolls
Location: Koh Rong
26 Amazing grace 54 nature’s bounty
If you like the printed
Uncovering the peerless Sacred Dancers of Angkor Get to know the Kingdom’s funkiest fruits magazine, you will love the
app – available to download
for free from our website
34 Matters of life and death 56 touching tradition
Cultural knowledge covered, from weddings to funerals A cooking class reveals the secrets of Khmer cuisine
36 names to know 60 the world on your fingertips Reserve your prime advertising spot
Key Cambodians who have shaped their nation Where to find the world’s finest cuisines in Cambodia
in the next issue now!
38 cinematic reflections 62 street foodie
Filmmaker Kulikar Sotho reveals her inspirations Identify, then try, these Khmer street specialities Information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may change.
All content is owned by the publisher and may not be reproduced without prior permission.

Discover CONTENTS
120 Town and country

Getting off the track in little-visited Kampong Thom
126 Where the wild things are

Top spots for watching wildlife
128 The art of letting go

Discovering the thriving arts hub of Battambang
92 learn
Photos: Jack Malipan for Discover (1); Sam Jam for Discover (1); Thomas Cristofoletti for Discover (2)
68
134 Masters at work
Introducing Cambodia’s most renowned contemporary artists
136 All the world’s a page

Delve deeper with our selection of books
138 Dates for your diary

Don’t miss the Kingdom’s annual highlights –
use our handy events calendar
140 The directory

All the contact details you need to make the most of Discover
106 114
the guide experience
66 Must-see sites 92 an island of our own
No trip would be complete without taking Funky holiday looks from Cambodian fashion talent
in these special sites are showcased on Song Saa Private Island
68 Phnom Penh 100 Just browsing?

Sample the best of the best in Cambodia’s lively capital, Some shopping inspiration for your time in Siem Reap
which is rapidly blossoming into a foodie haven
102 Rejuvenate to accumulate
76 Siem Reap The ultimate spots for wellness, relaxation and meditation
Our picks for when you’re done temple traipsing,
including some of the finest hotels in Southeast Asia 104 Driving lessons
The Kingdom’s finest courses for a quick round of golf
86 The south
120
Get your swimmers on at the top coastal spots 106 Standing on the shoulders of giants
of Sihanoukville, Kep and Kampot Exploring the Angkor temples with a twist
90 Elsewhere 114 in with the new

Step off the usual tourist trail and explore the Kingdom’s An influx of creative restaurants and businesses has
far reaches transformed Kampot

CULTURE advertorial
Luxury on the move

Cambodian popstar Meas Soksophea discusses the luxury luggage she
always relies on when travelling in the country or abroad – Rimowa,
Europe’s leading manufacturer of premium luggage
Travelling right: Meas

Soksophea, pictured at
Raffles Hotel Le Royal in
Phnom Penh
What does your travel schedule look like? I imagine you’re on the I love quality brands, and especially brands like Rimowa where
move quite often. Any chance for pleasure or is it only for work? you get how stylish and perfect it is for travel. Their long heritage
I’ve got a very busy schedule lately because I have to travel a in making luggage is perfect for me. To me, my Rimowa luggage
lot for concerts in the provinces, acting in music and commercial is my little slice of luxury.
videos, attending social and charity events, and I travel abroad I saw on your social media accounts that you are using two kinds
occasionally as well. Aside from work, I still have some spare time of luggage. What is the difference between these sets of luggage?
to relax at my favourite places, such as natural resort destinations Actually both the Topas and Salsa Air are my favourites. I love
in Cambodia, or to visit abroad. how classy and strong the Topas is. It’s my reliable luggage as it
Tell us about a little about your favourite destinations… keeps the contents protected. I also adore my Salsa Air – it’s every
My favourite destinations are by the seaside and natural places. woman’s shopping luggage because of its lightness and convenience
I like these because it can provide me with a quiet environment to for travelling.
relax, which is the very first thing I always want for my vacations. What essentials do you always pack in your Rimowa luggage?
Why is Rimowa your luggage of choice? In my luggage I pack clothing, make-up products and other
I love how smooth and easy the wheels are when using my important items. I think my Rimowa luggage is one of my favourite
Rimowa luggage. Even with the heavy stuff that I pack, they still belongings, because I always feel as if it is my small home that can
perform very well. provide me with everything that I need while I am on the go.
The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2017 15

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Discover
Photograph by Jack Malipan
The crystal waters off the island
of Koh Rong, 25km from the
shores of Cambodia’s Preah
Sihanouk province. Almost entirely
untouched by human hands until
the turn of the century, much of Koh
Rong retains a tranquil charm far
from the heavily touristed beaches
of the mainland.
16 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2017 17
XXXXXX
Discover
Photograph by Darren Wilch
Monks maintain a candlelit
vigil in the ruins of Angkor Wat
while celebrating Visak Bochea,
the anniversary of the birth,
enlightenment and death of Buddha.
Hundreds of young men are ordained
into the monkhood over five nights
18 Discover 2017 The during
Essence this period.
of Cambodia The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2017 19
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Discover
Photograph by Jack Malipan
The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh
ablaze with light in memory of the
late King Father Norodom Sihanouk.
Hailed as the architect of Cambodia’s
independence and crucial to the
nation’s return to peace after the
Khmer Rouge era, Sihanouk remains
20 Discover 2017 The aEssence
deeplyofrevered figure.
Cambodia The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2017 21
AT A GLANCE
Koh Ker
A less-visited temple
complex that should Preah Vihear
not be missed Perched on a cliff,
possibly the country’s
most majestic
temple
Kampong
Thom
Perfect for a taste of
rural life and
underappreciated
temples
Stung Treng
A key destination for
getting up close to the
Kingdom’s wildlife
Battambang
A laid-back city that has
become a venerable
hub for the arts
Mondulkiri
Home to rolling
green hills, minority
tribes and graceful
elephants
Koh Kong
A land of vast
waterways and
untamed jungle to
delight intrepid
visitors
Kratie
An idyllic base for
spotting endangered
river dolphins
Siem Reap Phnom Penh

Site of the Angkor A thriving capital
temples that are at that offers a
the heart of any trip stirring sense of
to Cambodia the exotic
Sihanoukville Kep
Cambodia’s beach Tonle Sap A soothing seaside
Illustration Natalie Phillips
town and a gateway to Boat trips and floating jewel famed for
impeccable islands villages abound on the seafood and absolute
country’s great lake relaxation
history
An eye on the past

Charting the twists and turns of the Kingdom’s tumultuous history
1593-1594
Now ruling from the
1177 cosmopolitan capital of
1113-1145 The neighbouring Chams Longvek, King Sattha begs
Suryavarman II leads the – possibly colluding with the governor of the
Khmer Empire to the apex 1190 1220
800 dissident Khmer factions 1181 Jayavarman VII captures Jayavarman VII dies 1432 Philippines for protection
The now-legendary of its power, ruling much of – launch a shock naval Jayavarman VII drives the from the encroaching Thai
today’s Cambodia, and sacks the Champa after nearly 40 years After a seven-month siege
Jayavarman II returns from attack on Angkor, invading Chams from capital, bringing the Cham on the throne, leaving forces. Soldiers arrive too
Thailand, Laos and at the hands of Thai
exile in Java to rule a overthrowing the recently Angkor and is crowned king back to Angkor in a legacy of exquisite late, and the Khmer Empire,
550-800 divided Chenla. Two years southern Vietnam. He risen usurper supreme ruler of the Khmer
invaders, Angkor falls and
which had been long in
Funan’s former vassal-state dedicates the temple chains and expanding the Buddhist monuments, the capital is moved to
later, he is consecrated as Tribhuvanadityavarman Empire. He establishes Khmer Empire in all roads, hospitals and decline, never recovers.
of Chenla gains complex of Angkor Wat to Phnom Penh.
god-king of the newly and occupying the Mahayana Buddhism as directions. Thirteen years military triumphs.
100-550 independence and formed Khmer Empire. the Hindu god Vishnu but sacred capital. the official state religion.
Strongly influenced by deposes its predecessor to dies before it is completed. later, he annexes all
Indian culture and become the dominant of Champa.
philosophy, the Kingdom of power in the region,
Funan (as it was known to swallowing parts of
Chinese chroniclers) rises modern-day Laos
from the banks of the and Thailand.
Mekong Delta.
1945 1941
In the dying days of World
Japanese troops occupy
War II, Japanese forces 1863
Cambodia, though
depose the French Hemmed in by the
day-to-day administration
authorities. On Japanese
remains with the French. At Vietnamese and Thais, and 1690
urging, King Sihanouk terrified of domestic The Mekong Delta region
age 19, and believed by the
proclaims a short-lived rebellion, the Khmer royal is annexed by the
French to be pliable and
1953 independence from the family asks France for Vietnamese. Over the
inexperienced, King
King Sihanouk’s French. Colonial rule is protection. Cambodia is next 100 years, they
Sihanouk accedes the
long-running campaign for re-established following declared a French continue this expansion
throne upon the death of
independence is rewarded Japan’s surrender. protectorate shortly into Khmer-occupied
King Monivong.
as France officially cedes after the ascension of territory – often by force.
1970 control of Cambodia. Two King Norodom.
US-aligned General Lon Nol years later, Sihanouk
launches a coup d’état, abdicates to pursue
ousting Prince Sihanouk a career in politics as
and becoming president of prime minister.
the newly formed Khmer
Republic. The Cambodian
Civil War begins.
1975 1998 2004

Phnom Penh falls to the Hun Sen wins the 1998
Citing health concerns and
communist Khmer Rouge. 1992 National Assembly
sick of political infighting,
The regime decimates the 1979 The United Nations elections amid allegations
King Sihanouk abdicates in
educated classes and Provoked by a series of Transitional Authority in of widespread intimidation
favour of his son Sihamoni.
2013
begins a bloody reign of border raids, invading Cambodia takes over the and violence. Deposed The general election mark
Long a figure of great
national reinvention that Vietnamese forces capture administration of the Khmer Rouge leader Pol the greatest loss of seats
political influence, the role
claims an estimated 1.7 Phnom Penh and drive the country, monitoring the Pot dies, imprisoned by for the ruling Cambodian
of monarch is reduced to
million Cambodian lives. Khmer Rouge from power. 1993 election that sees his own troops on the People’s Party since 1998,
a purely ceremonial one.
A vanguard of Khmer Prime Minister Hun Sen Thai border. with the opposition
Sihanouk dies in 2012.
Rouge defectors, including cement his power – despite Cambodian National
Hun Sen, is installed into losing the election. King Rescue Party surging in
power under de facto Sihanouk is reinstated popularity.
leader Heng Samrin. as monarch.
CULTURE
culture
Amazing
grace
The ancient Cambodian art of apsara dancing is
a popular attraction at numerous hotels and
restaurants. However, some of the country’s finest
practitioners are to be found in a small village in
rural Siem Reap
Photography by Sam Jam Words by Dene Mullen
A gift: receiving a crown is an important, and

reverential, part of the Sacred Dancers' ritual
D
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CULTURE
15 du
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di
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vi
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O eatm
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*
On the line: dancers must attend classes
an absolute
for at least four hours a day if they are to In style: dancers strike some of
master the precise techniques of apsara the most famous apsara poses
Bell boy: musicians play the kong toch sensory

experience
instrument to accompany the dancers
Maker's mark: all of the

Sacred Dancers' headwear
www.bodia-spa.com
and costumes are hand- contact@bodia-spa.com facebook.com/bodiaspa
made by the dancers
Phnom Penh Siem Reap

NATIONAL MUSEUM AREA OLD MARKET AREA
Pushing it: dancers bend
their fingers during
Dancers hold Corner Sothearos Blvd and st. 178 New Street A,
Above U-C are Pharmacy Above U-Care Pharmacy
training. Very dextrous punishing poses with Tel: 855(0) 23 226 199 Tel: 855(0) 63 761 593
fingers are necessary for
apsara dancing arms, legs and digits HERITAGE SUITES HOTEL TEMPLATION HOTEL
twisted and curved at Heritage road, Rok Rak Street,
Behind Wat Polanka Modul 3, Phum Sla Kram
fantastical angles Tel: 855(0) 63 762 428 Tel: 855(0) 63 969 345
28 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia * Except beauty treatments and Caudalie treatments
CULTURE
Focus: dancers prepare to perform,

all wearing handmade costumes
Magic fingers: a dancer with the Sacred Dancers

of Angkor, based in a small village outside
Siem Reap, practises her hand movements – an
integral part of Cambodia's apsara dancing
The students exude

an air of serenity, of
discipline – even those
With respect: a dancer receives her mask from
watching from the Ms Sokham, the school's folk dance teacher
sidelines do so intently

CULTURE
Most of the
dancers have
been studying
the heavenly art
for seven, eight
or nine years
the sidelines do so intently, taking in their
teacher’s instructions and occasionally
practising their hand movements. Lines
of dancers hold punishing poses with
arms, legs and digits twisted and curved
at fantastical angles, not a coiled toe out of
place, for three to four minutes at a time,
without ever exhibiting signs of strain or
the merest tremble. A girl dressed as the
divine archer, a character in the epic Ream-
ker poem, stands on a small podium, where
Ms Chantha, the school’s classical dance
teacher, calls out instructions and physically
rearranges her millimetres at a time until
the pose is deemed flawless.
Shortly afterwards, some of the girls take
up Cambodian instruments and perform
beautiful mohori music, a traditional form
usually played at pagodas. They also display
prodigious talent with a paintbrush, creat-
Classical: dancers perform while dressed as ing soft watercolour recreations of murals
Neang Seda (left) and Hanuman, characters
from the Reamker, a Cambodian epic poem
found at Siem Reap’s famed temples. The
paintings will be sold for $25 each at the
Grand heritage hotels imbued with elegance and style
troupe’s shows, with $20 going to the
Hotel Le Royal and Grand Hotel d’Angkor had been the choice home for travelers since 1920’s
ON
dancer who painted it and $5 retained by
a large, wooden stage Chhouk Sar village, a 45-minute drive from the organisation for materials. with finest restaurants, bars and spa offerings. From the treat of the classic afternoon tea,
with a thatched roof, downtown Siem Reap, unfurls an ethereal After a couple of hours of muscle- Royal Khmer cuisine to a stylish evening sipping your favourite cocktail in the hotels most iconic
a group of young spectacle of beauty, precision and control. straining perfection, four of the Sacred
Elephant Bars will bring you an unforgettable experience.
men and women are Founded in 2007 as an offshoot of the Dancers stage a final performance, one
kneeling down, offering smiles and bowed Nginn Karet Foundation for Cambodia, that bids goodbye and good luck to these
heads. One by one they are summoned to a sustainable development NGO that fortunate beings who spent an afternoon Discover more as you explore Raffles Cambodia.
the front of the class, where they receive helps underprivileged families, the Sacred in the company of the gods.
ornate crowns and fearsome monkey Dancers of Angkor is the brainchild and
masks from their teacher. passion project of Ravynn Karet-Coxen. RAFFLES HOTEL LE ROYAL RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D’ANGKOR
Discover has been granted a private audi- Her young charges are exclusively children An oasis in an emerging city Heritage for today’s explorer
See the Sacred Dancers
ence with the Sacred Dancers of Angkor, from the area surrounding Chhouk Sar, E: raffles.com/phnom-penh E: raffles.com/siem-reap
one of Cambodia’s most revered troupes all of whom train for four hours per day The Sacred Dancers of Angkor perform one
or two times per month at high-end hotels
of apsara dancers. Apsara is the country’s in addition to attending regular school.
in Siem Reap, most notably the Amansara.
classical dance style that dates back more Most have been studying the Kingdom’s Tourists are also welcomed to the Chhouk
than 1,000 years to the Angkorian era, dur- heavenly art here for seven, eight or nine Sar compound two to three times per
ing which time the performers were seen as years – and it shows. month, by appointment only. For more
fulfilling the sacred function of communicat- The students exude an air of serenity, information visit nkfc.org.
ing between gods and mortals. And here in of discipline – even those watching from

CULTURE
Matters of life Spirit Houses

Perhaps the most eye-catching expressions of Cambodia’s
and death
rich religious tradition are the often-garish miniature
temples that stand guard before almost every home and
business. These spirit houses, or rean tevoda as they are
more properly known, are traditionally placed in one of the
front corners of the property, their open shelf angled
towards – but never directly before – the main doorway to
Been invited to a wedding? Wondering about the ubiquitous the house. On holy days, of which Cambodia’s lunar
small houses stuffed with burning incense? calendar has many, the shrine is loaded with votive
let us help you delve deeper into a few of Cambodia’s cultural rites offerings of incense, lotus and jasmine. The resting place of
the tevoda, a form of guardian spirit, the spirit house’s
centrality to Khmer culture predates the spread of
Buddhism, with roots in the local animist religion that filled
the woods and fields of ancient Cambodia with local gods,
ancestor spirits and demons to be placated. From its
humble origins, in the village the spirit house has evolved
into a symbol of status, piety and wealth, with prosperous
Cambodians spending as much as $5,000 on elaborate
baroque models in scarlet and gold.
Do: Be respectful. Just as you would tread lightly among the altars and
reliquaries of a church, treat the rean tevoda with appropriate reverence.
Don’t: Take any offerings from the shrine or, heaven forbid, knock
one over.
Pagodas
Modelled on the sacred geometry of the stupa – whose
bell-like shape still dots the temple complexes of Southeast
Asia – the pagoda serves as the centre of religious life in
Cambodia. From the gem-studded golden Buddhas of
Phnom Penh’s Silver Pagoda to the more spartan temples
dotting the countryside, the pagoda is an oasis of tranquillity
removed from the materialist world outside. Long the prime
dispensers of education and charity in Cambodian society,
pagodas remain a place where boys can advance their
learning – and marriage prospects – by being ordained as
Buddhist monks and educated in matters of scripture,
Weddings culture and language. Unlike Western holy orders, not every
As a stranger in a strange land, an invitation to and plenty of booze to ease the transition from member of the sangha – the body of monks within
a Cambodian wedding may cause some trepidation for acquaintance to confidant, a Cambodian wedding can be Buddhism – is expected to remain in the fold until their
newcomers to the country. Lasting anywhere from a day to an excellent chance to make new friends and try out a few dying day. Resplendent from Cambodia’s recent years of
a week and loaded with allusions to Khmer mythology, even traditional dance moves. Weddings take place beneath Photos: Thomas Cristofoletti for Discover (3) relative prosperity, most of the country’s pagodas shine in
the most humble ceremony is an expensive undertaking, and enormous pink and gold tents – often in the middle of the amber, gold and white, with writhing naga snakes entwined
guests are expected to bring a cash offering in an envelope street if in a city. with sacred garuda eagles lining the eaves and pillars of
conveniently included with the invitation. Foreigners these magnificent tributes to the divine.
should expect to part with anywhere between $20 and $50 Do: Dress in semi-formal attire. Men should wear dress shirts with long
on the day, but give what you can afford. Don’t be put off sleeves. Women should wear either a skirt or a dress, although a Do: Dress appropriately. Both men and women are encouraged to cover
traditional Khmer dress is thoroughly encouraged. their legs and shoulders to respect the sanctity and dignity of the
by the hawk-eyed relatives noting down every gift – by Don’t: Forget to raise a glass along with everyone else at your table. A temple grounds.
doing so, the family ensures it meets the offering in kind wholehearted “chul muy!”, the Cambodian equivalent of “cheers”, will be Don’t: Act obnoxiously. These temples are places of worship and
when it’s your turn to get hitched. With a sit-down dinner called for every few minutes. reflection for the Khmer people. Remove your shoes and show respect.
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Names to know
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Vann Molyvann
Easily the most exalted figure in
Cambodian architecture, Vann Molyvann
designed some of Cambodia’s most
From heads of state to revered artists, get acquainted with this group of iconic landmarks, from Phnom Penh’s
crumbling White Building and vast
heavyweights who have helped shape their nation Olympic Stadium to the capital’s
soaring Independence Monument. He
is the de facto leader of the New Khmer
Architecture movement, which
melded Cambodian construction
forms with numerous international
modernisms and had its heyday in
the 1950s and 1960s. In addition to
being a seminal architect, Molyvann
was also an urban planner, helping
expand Phnom Penh and establish the
seaport of Sihanoukville. As the capital
industrialises, many of his buildings have
been remodelled or demolished to make
way for towering skyscrapers.
Pung Chhiv Kek

Pung Chhiv Kek is the highly respected
founder and president of non-profit
human rights organisation Licadho. Kek
received her medical degree in France
in 1968 and spent subsequent years
conducting research in Cambodia, Brazil,
Canada and Angola. In the late 1980s, she
played a key role in ending Cambodia’s
civil war, facilitating negotiations between
Prime Minister Hun Sen and the then-
deposed King Norodom Sihanouk. She
founded Licadho in 1992, one of the first
human rights organisations established
Photos: Stefan V. Jensen (1); Xinhua (1); Sam Jam for Discover (1); Kim Kyung Hoon / Reuters (1)
in Cambodia’s new civil society. Among
King Norodom Prime Minister its many functions, the organisation has
Sihanouk Hun Sen conducted election monitoring, educated
Norodom Sihanouk is perhaps the most As leader of Cambodia for more voters and provided medical care to
revered figure in contemporary Cambodia, than 30 years, Prime Minister prisoners and victims of human
having led the country on and off, in various Hun Sen is one of the world’s rights violations.
positions, from 1941 to 2004. Following longest-serving heads of state.
World War II, Sihanouk championed The former Khmer Rouge soldier
Svay Sareth 100% natural products
made in
independence from French colonisation, and president of the ruling
which finally came to fruition in 1953. Cambodian People’s Party is Born in 1972 in Battambang, contemporary
A lover of the arts, Sihanouk was monarch both cursed and respected artist Svay Sareth’s formative years were spent
during the country’s so-called Golden Age for his ability to retain power watching his country suffer. As a teenager
cambodia
of the 1960s, when Cambodia was regarded through canny party politics. His living in a refugee camp near the Thai border,
by many as the most modern and cultured premiership has been rife with Sareth took refuge in art, and his subsequent
nation in the region. The following decades contradictions: he is the man installation and performance works have often
saw Sihanouk imprisoned by the Khmer who brought peace and stability featured materials and themes drawn from his
Rouge, then living in exile following the 1979 to the nation, but he regularly time spent close to war. Last year, the artist
Vietnamese invasion that ended the Khmer earns the ire of human rights filmed himself eating rubber sandals, which twitter.com/bodianature
Rouge’s murderous reign. The King Father, groups and the international were often worn by Khmer Rouge soldiers and
as he came to be known, passed away in community. Whether by fair
facebook.com/bodianature
other revolutionaries in the region. Perhaps his
October 2012. A few months later, Phnom
Penh virtually shut down as hundreds of
means or foul, it seems likely
that Cambodia’s golf-loving
most jarring and famed performance, 2011’s
“Mon Boulet” (“My Burden”) saw Sareth pull
bodia.com
thousands of mourners came to pay their strongman will be around for an 80kg metal globe 250km from Siem Reap
respects at his funeral. a while yet. to Phnom Penh.

PEOPLE
Cinematic
reflections
The first Cambodian woman to direct a film
since the 1970s, Kulikar Sotho garnered
critical acclaim with her 2014 feature, The
Last Reel. the fearless filmmaker is committed
to telling Cambodian stories but refuses to
be pigeonholed by her country’s past
Words by Holly Robertson Photography by Thomas Cristofoletti
Full of grace:
Kulikar Sotho pictured in the
grounds of Phnom Penh’s
iconic Raffles Hotel Le Royal
Discover
TIP
The works of Cambodian filmmaker Davy Chou are also
worth discovering. His most recent film, Diamond
Island, screened at the 2016 Cannes Film Festival.
Every Cambodian has more

latest film from acclaimed Cambodian Sotho was born in Phnom Penh in
director Kulikar Sotho. 1973, just two years before the com-
or less the same scars that my

If the emotions feel real, it’s because munist Khmer Rouge emptied the capi-
they are. As with her debut film, The tal of people as part of their dystopian
family has and experiences we

Last Reel, Sotho drew on her own expe- vision for a classless, agrarian-based
riences to tell the fictional tale, incor- society. And the Pol Pot era has – as for
porating the suffering her mother has many Cambodians – cast something of
felt since losing her husband during the
Khmer Rouge era. “In many ways, the
are struggling to get through” a shadow over Sotho’s life.
While not dealing directly with the
survivor carries an even deeper weight, period in her films, it has never been
a bigger weight than the person who is it on a big international stage, it was film during Cambodia’s ‘Golden Age’ of far from the narrative. And although
gone,” said Sotho. just… I felt like I wanted to do some- cinema, which saw hundreds of films she believes it is important to have
“For so many years, I never knew [anything for my country at that moment.” made in the 1960s and early 1970s. On conversations about that time – both
thing] about my father. And [my mother] She then worked on a series of docu- finding out that the last reel of the film in art and in life – she is adamant that
decided to tell me after The Last Reel. mentaries, most of which explored the is missing, Sophoun decides to finish the it should not serve to define a coun-
She said to me that for my father, who Khmer Rouge period. Watching foreign film herself – hoping to heal her family try that rose from the great Angkor
is gone, his suffering is also gone. She filmmakers framing Cambodian stories in the process. Empire, which at its height stretched
is surviving and she is surrounded by from an outsider’s perspective was a fur- “Through her love for her mother, [she across much of modern day Thailand,
everything that is the legacy of their love. ther prompt to try her own hand at the was] driven to complete the film. And, Laos and southern Vietnam.
“That I built into the relationship cinematic craft. in many ways, it is the love that I have “A lot of Cambodians, especially the
between Mealea and Fukuda. And he was “You know, for them, it is informa- for my mother that leads me, that gives younger generation, they do not pay
a beautiful actor; he portrayed it very well. tion for the world – there is no story me this determination to make the film,” much attention to the history of their
The moment he stands on the bridge, I attachment to them… because it’s not Sotho said of the similarities between own country, of their own family. And
feel that emotion, that weight on him.” their story. So I felt like I wanted to tell herself and the central character. I think if we don’t pay attention to our
Sotho, 43, got her start as a translator the Cambodian story from [the point of “Emotionally, it is very much based on own history, the danger is that we can
and fixer for Lonely Planet TV in 1999, view of] an insider – from the voice, from my family. Situationally, it is the situation lose our identity because we don’t know
but her first taste of the film world was the inner voice [of someone] who lived of all Cambodians. I can’t say it is just my who we were and where we came from.
on the set of Tomb Raider, a 2001 Hol- with the legacy [of the Khmer Rouge]. own family, because every Cambodian has “I don’t think we should only focus
A
lywood production starring Angelina And that was the moment that I decided more or less the same scars that we have on the Khmer Rouge history; I think
Jolie, which was partly filmed at the I would do a film about Cambodia.” and experiences we are struggling to get we should also look beyond the Khmer
temples of Angkor in Siem Reap. As Sotho’s ability to weave the deeply per- through, to come out of it.” Rouge history as well,” she added.
a line producer, Sotho’s position was sonal into her films has been, perhaps, The film was critically acclaimed and “There were many centuries of glori-
focused on logistics and administra- what has made them so memorable for toured the international festival circuit, ous time. We should just use the Khmer
tion. But it was the creative side that audiences. Her debut film, The Last Reel, picking up several prizes along the way, Rouge, the dark time, to make us even
captivated her interest. follows a young girl, Sophoun, who including the Spirit of Asia award at the stronger – to rise above it.”
“I was very fascinated when I was on discovers that her mother starred in a 2014 Tokyo International Film Festival. Which is exactly what Sotho is doing.
the film set, seeing how the director
worked with actors, how he controlled
everything from his monitors, how the
cinematographers worked, and how the
art department created this amazing set.
And I just feel like it was a beautiful
Japanese man stands on a bridge in far- transformation… To read the script
away Cambodia, the haunting melody of on the paper and to see it being trans-
his lost love’s voice washing over him. formed onto the set and being shot –
Having returned to the country where I just felt, like, amazing,” she said.
he fell for a woman named Mealea in the “And then, when I was invited to
1970s, Fukuda hopes to reclaim her heart the premiere in Los Angeles, the film
after an absence spanning two decades, opened with Cambodia, and I was so
only to find that she has died. The tragedy emotional seeing Cambodia on the big
of this thwarted cross-border love is the screen, because Cambodia is such a for-
central story in Beyond the Bridge, the gotten country by the world. To see

people
Into the past

A treasure trove of ancient artefacts and cultural curios, Cambodia’s National
Museum is an important site for any visitor to the country. We meet the man at the
helm of this august institution, museum director Kong Vireak
Words by Paul Millar Photography by Merja Yeung
F
or many visitors to Phnom Penh, ing, Vireak travelled to France to study of the warrior-king Rama – the seventh
the National Museum of Cambo- anthropology before travelling back to incarnation of the Hindu god Vishnu
dia, an oasis of exquisite calm and his homeland to work on excavation sites – was returned to Cambodia from the
ancient culture in the heart of the at Siem Reap’s Angkor complexes. After Denver Art Museum.
capital’s tourist hub, is a natural stop five years in the field, Vireak returned to For Vireak, the repatriations are a sign
on any trip to the city. Designed to echo his alma mater to teach classes in anthro- of a new way of thinking within the walls
the majestic temple complexes glimpsed pology and research ancient Khmer cul- of the West’s great museums.
on the faded bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat, ture. In a few short years, he was made “I cannot blame the old generation,” he
the museum houses art and artefacts deputy director and then director of said. “Before, people in Europe, the rich
stretching back more than a millen- RUFA before being appointed director aristocracy, they wanted to collect exotic
nium to the dawn of Cambodia’s once- of the national museum in 2012. Since objects and artefacts. But I can imagine
flourishing empire. then, Vireak has overseen the museum’s the later generation, the younger genera-
But for its director, Kong Vireak, the steady transition into a modern institution of people, they have more feeling to
winding path through the carved doors tion leading Cambodia’s exploration of [ask]: ‘Why should we take somebody’s
of Cambodia’s national museum took him its ancient heritage. culture?’ Culture is something that we
along a less straightforward route. can admire, but we cannot steal.”
“It was accidental,” he admits when “My message for the Perhaps it is for these reasons that
asked the provenance of his passion for Vireak remains most moved by the
the nation’s antiquities. “Most of the Cambodian public is reclaimed sculptures of Koh Ker – even
Cambodian people in my generation, to visit the museum, to more so than the exquisite statue of King
we were not thinking of what we would Jayavarman VII in meditation, the last
be after high school… when we finished learn their own culture great god-king of the Khmer Empire and
high school, we had to look for a uni- and to enjoy” one of the museum’s most popular works.
versity – and at that time, there were not “Of course, Jayavarman VII – no one
many private universities so we had to “Now we are integrated into the inter- can deny the beauty of it as an idol,
find anything that we could.” national community, so we have to be flex- a symbol of the National Museum, but I
Chuckling, he reveals that if his house ible and adapt to the new strategy – the myself personally have fallen in love with
had not been within walking distance of new definition of museum,” he said. “Of the statues of Koh Ker.”
Phnom Penh’s Royal University of Fine course, the basic definition of museum is a It is this passion for his nation’s
Arts (RUFA), his life might have turned place to collect, to protect, to conserve the ancient beauty that Vireak hopes the
out very differently. safeguarding of objects, artefacts with artis- museum will kindle in the Cambodian
“My house was just a hundred steps tic value, cultural value, antiquities – but public, whether in the sweeping gardens
from RUFA, from the National Museum, now we also have a main role in education of the museum’s grounds, in the still
so it was much easier for me. I took the through exhibitions, permanent exhibition waters of the central courtyard, or in the
entry exam for RUFA. I had no orienta- displays, and through special exhibitions.” enigmatic smiles of the sculptures that
tion before that. I accidentally fell into During his time at the museum, Vireak have watched empires crumble.
archaeology. After that, of course, I fell has witnessed Western nations return “The museum is more than a building
in love with culture, with art history.” almost half a dozen sacred statues that with artefacts,” he said. “The museum
Although he was initially trained in were looted from the remote Koh Ker can be a school, and also a place to
archaeology, Vireak was captivated not temple site in Cambodia’s northern forests enjoy. So my message for students – for In charge: Kong
Vireak was appointed
just by the ruins of Cambodia’s ancient decades ago. In January 2016, the last of the Cambodian public – is to visit the
director of the national
empires, but also by the lost cultures these relics in the hands of a public institu- museum, to learn their own culture and museum in 2012
that had shaped them. Upon graduat- tion, a 10th-century sandstone sculpture to enjoy.”

people
Discover
TIP
Cambodian
Living Arts
presents a
traditional
A life less
dance show
every night at
the National
Museum in
Phnom Penh.
Doors open at
ordinary
6:30pm and
tickets are
available
online or
from the
National
Museum from
9am until
7pm.
learning an instrument helped arn chorn-pond
survive the khmer rouge era. HE has since dedicated
his life to reviving traditional Cambodian music that
was almost lost under the Regime
By Ellie Dyer Photography by Sam Jam
It
was a knife-edge decision that The cadres, however, kept their word,
helped to save Arn Chorn-Pond’s and an elderly master was brought in to
life. Overworked, underfed and teach five young boys how to play. The
a witness to mass slaughter, he musician, whose name Chorn-Pond never
volunteered to play a musical instrument discovered, soon disappeared – as did so
while living in a brutal Khmer Rouge camp many during the Khmer Rouge’s 1975 to
in Battambang province in the 1970s. 1979 rule, when an estimated 1.7 million
“They said: ‘We’re going to start music, people died from disease, starvation and
who’s interested in playing?’ Sometimes, summary execution.
they killed you if you raised a hand in Three children who were slow to learn
a wrong situation,” says the 50-year-old were next. But Chorn-Pond was quick,
musician, explaining how he was forced and he began performing revolutionary
to work at a temple, used as a “killing songs on the khim, a type of hammered
place” by the regime, alongside 700 other dulcimer, at gatherings for cadres and
children aged from about seven to 13. leaders of the ultra-Maoist regime.
“I was sure it was a 50/50 gamble, but “Sometimes you peed in your pants [if]
inside of me [I thought] it is fine if they you played the wrong song or you played
kill me now. We were all sick; starvation the wrong tune or whatever… these were
was a really hard thing to take for us,” he bad people,” he says.
remembers, reliving his memories through Amid the trauma of the regime, a father
expressive brown eyes while sitting in his figure emerged in the form of a replace-
cosy Phnom Penh office, surrounded by ment teacher, master Mek. The pair helped Long and winding
images illustrating his life’s work. each other to survive, risking death as g road: Arn Chorn-Pond
outside Phnom Penh’s
National Museum

PEOPLE
Mek taught Chorn-Pond forbidden tunes

from the past, and his student stole food
to supplement their meagre diets.
After the Vietnamese invaded in the
dying days of 1978, that link was broken. I’m telling the Khmer Rouge:
Chorn-Pond was given a gun and forced
to fight, acting as an expendable decoy for How powerful
is this?
the regime. Eventually, he found himself
in the jungle near the Thai border, where
he was discovered – blistered, unconscious
and close to death – and brought to
Just a little bamboo flute, and
a nearby refugee camp. I play and I make everyone cry,
A more brutal childhood experience is
difficult to imagine, yet it has shaped
and give money, and fall deep
both Chorn-Pond’s life and work: the into their heart. How powerful
musician has dedicated much of his
existence to the revival of traditional
is that compared to just taking
Khmer arts after an estimated 90% people’s lives?”
of artists perished under Pol Pot, deci-
mating the Kingdom’s rich cultural
knowledge base.
His efforts have roots in both Cam-
bodia and the US – where he was “He turns around, he looks, and he was ‘How did you meet your wife?’ – the
taken by his adoptive father, Lutheran smiling – but also had tears coming out. same questions that the gang members
minister Peter Pond, and enrolled in He called my name, and I went and we in Lowell asked. I drive the bus, and my
a US high school. Filled with students hugged each other,” Chorn-Pond recalls, tears come out.”
with no knowledge of his past, Chorn- before recounting how he went on to find But for all his achievements and experi-
Pond found it tough. He recalls being other masters, often living in difficult cir- ences in the Kingdom, Chorn-Pond has a
unable to control himself – “like a tiger” cumstances, and in 1998 created the Cam- wider vision. In 2013, the CLA-initiated
– and experiencing suicidal thoughts. bodian Masters Performers Programme. Season of Cambodia exposed New York
Over time he revisited music, taking up The ‘school without walls’ encour- to Cambodia’s cultural heritage through
the flute – which he plays to this day – in aged youngsters in Phnom Penh to take a range of performances featuring some
the late 1980s. After being asked by his up music and learn from these salaried of the nation’s best artists. Chorn-Pond
father, he also began speaking about his experts. And, with the help of key sup- reveals that he even invited politician
experiences and sharing his story. Later, porters, it evolved into the organisation Henry Kissinger, the former US secretary
when working with troubled youths in known as Cambodian Living Arts (CLA). of state widely blamed for the large-scale
Lowell, Massachusetts, where a large Today, the non-profit fosters a new gen- bombing of Cambodia by the US in the
community of Cambodian-Americans eration of artists, students and teachers early 1970s, to attend.
have settled, he again harnessed the power through a range of educational, develop- Today, Chorn-Pond’s dream is for every
of song by asking a surviving Cambodian ment and market-building programmes. child on the planet to own an instrument,
master of the fiddle to interact with the Driven and dedicated, Chorn-Pond is also echoing his passionate belief in music and
young people, a move that helped boost continuing his work by exposing rural the arts as forces for peace. The flute is
their self-esteem. populations to music via the Khmer now his ‘weapon’, rather than the guns
Despite his time in the US, Chorn-Pond Magic Music Bus, which works in part- he was forced to carry as a youngster.
was drawn back to his homeland, where nership with CLA to transport artists “I’m telling the Khmer Rouge: ‘How
his family had owned a popular opera across the country to perform. powerful is this?’” he says, softly. “Just
company. It was back in Battambang “Playing music helps me smile now, and a little bamboo flute, and I play and The unique leisure experience in Cambodia.
– after finding out that close to 35 helps me even cry now,” he says. “Being I make everyone cry, and give money, and All ingredients imported from Germany, brewed following
members of his family had died – that on the bus, seeing the laughter and the fall deep into their heart. How powerful
he stumbled across master Mek, working relationships, those young masters and the is that compared to just taking people’s a 500 year old tradition.
as a hairdresser, and drinking. old masters talking to each other about: lives, you know, which I have also done.”
hops-brewery.com hopsbeercambodia +855 (0)93 999 017

CUISINE
Bright young
As the pastry chef,
I specialise in making
pastries, breads, ice
cream and desserts. I love learning
new recipes and working in this
team because we’re like a family
things
and have lots of fun at work. My
favourite ingredient is chocolate.
We use 70% couverture chocolate
from Switzerland, which has no
sugar and is very versatile – we
use it for cakes, ice cream and lots
of other desserts. I really like to
use it for chocolate mousse along
with cream, gelatin, egg white and
As Cambodia’s kitchens become increasingly creative, passion fruit puree.”
a new generation of chefs is poised to take the
Kingdom’s cuisine in thrilling new directions.
we meet the rising stars at three of the country’s Lao Tola
most innovative restaurants Pastry Chef
The Tiger’s Eye
Photography by Sam Jam Interviews by Dene Mullen
Pumpkin coconut
crème caramel; roselle
flower with coconut and
dark chocolate
Chef-owner Timothy Bruyns on Lao Tola:
“Tola is like a sponge. Everything you show
him how to do, he writes it down, takes
photos of it and researches it on the internet.
He’s a really switched-on, sharp guy. The
pastry workload is about twice that of any
other section, but by thinking things
through he always manages to
stay really calm.”
CUISINE
Stir-fried
prawns with fresh
green peppercorns
Executive chef Uyung Al Wazir
Srey Peo on Srey Peo: “I think Srey Peo’s main
Sous Chef strength is her mastery of Khmer cuisine.
Phum Baitang
She had a great deal of input into our
Khmer menu. She is also very open-
minded and loves to travel – she’s
been to Vietnam, India – which is
very important for a chef.”
“I love working as part of our team. All my colleagues are very friendly and very
helpful – we work very well together – and I enjoy every part of my job. My favourite
ingredient is Kampot green peppercorn because it is something very special from
Cambodia, and we cannot compare it with other countries – it is the best. It works
particularly well when stir-fried with seafood.”

Cuisine Wat Damnak
Refried palm sugar-
braised pork shank with
fresh green peppercorns and
cauliflower stems
Chef-owner Johannes Riviere on his

team: “Phaleap is from the countryside,
while Phanny started here as a cleaner, but
they have very good knowledge of local
Khuon Pronh
fruits, herbs and other ingredients. The two Dara
Sotheareak
boys are from wealthier backgrounds
and they have a great understanding
of the building blocks of putting
a dish together.”
Phay
Khon Phanny
Phaleap
Khuon Sotheareak: “Being a chef is my dream job. I love making people happy by
cooking for them. My favourite ingredients are found in Cambodia; they are galangal
and kaffir lime leaf. They smell very strong but can be used in many different dishes,
even cocktails. Galangal gives soups a wonderful aroma and distinctive taste, while
kaffir lime leaf is great in stir fries and for marinades.”

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vibrant pink pulp specked with tiny
A perfect blend
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STARBUCKS FLAGSHIP STORE IN PHNOM PENH FUSES COFFEE MASTERY
Salak, colloquially know as snake WITH RICH CAMBODIAN HERITAGE
fruit because of its scaly skin, has a
Nature’s
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a slight acidity.
From the same family as the lychee,
bounty
the longan is less distinctive in look
than its better-known cousin, and also
tastes more tart.
Purple on the outside with snow-white

From pink dragons
inner segments, the mangosteen is to scaly snakes,
sweet, tangy and juicy all at once – Cambodia's fruits
a true flavour hit. are as fantastical
as they are
delicious. Enjoy
your fruit salad
with confidence
using our guide
When sliced in two, sweet star apples
reveal a star-shaped core. An added
to the Kingdom’s
bonus: they are one of the lowest- sweetest produce
G
calorie tropical fruits.
liding along the wall, the Siren smiles as she cups fosters deep connection to the Starbucks story and pas-
a cluster of coffee cherries in her painted hands. sion for coffee, the store features an exclusive Starbucks
Splashed with scales of coiling fronds, her tail splits Reserve Coffee Experience Bar, where years of craftsman-
smoothly into a pair of snarling Naga, the legendary dragon ship guide the hands of the black-aproned Starbucks Coffee
In Cambodia, mangoes are consumed
that keeps watch over Cambodia’s pagodas and temples. Masters. Through these skilled baristas, a new generation
at various stages of ripeness – one This is the centerpiece of Starbucks two-story, 7,000 of Cambodians can embark on an elevated coffee journey
popular snack is green mango square-feet flagship store in Phnom Penh’s bustling Boeung exploring the rare, exceptional Starbucks Reserve offerings.
Photo: Sam Jam for Discover Styling: Timothy Bruyns at the Tiger's Eye
dipped in chilli salt and sugar. Keng Kang neighborhood. Hand-painted by local urban Small-batch blended and roasted in Starbucks’ hometown
artists Peap Tarr and Lisa Mam, the mural reimagines Si- of Seattle, these unique coffees are available through five dis-
The sapodilla, known as a
ren, the mythological twin-tailed mermaid that enchants tinct brewing methods – Siphon, Pour-over, Cold Brew, Cof-
lmot in Cambodia, is native
you on every Starbucks cup, as the majestic mermaid fee Press and the Black Eagle Espresso Machine, all single-
to Mexico but widely grown in
Princess Sovann Maccha from Cambodia’s oldest tales. cup brewed with meticulous technique and care. For a refined
Southeast Asia. The soft inner
pulp has a sweet, malty flavour.
The mural is far from the store’s only tribute to Cambo- cup, the Siphon method uses vacuum force and vapor pres-
dia’s lore. Greeting customers at the storefront is a Siren sure to extract subtle coffee flavours, accompanied by a visu-
carving in local sandstone that echoes the ancient Khmer ally captivating presentation that showcases coffee artistry.
wonder in its artistic prime. By the main entrance, a hand- Steeped for ten hours in cool water, the Cold Brew offers local
carved stone bowl adorned with the scaled pattern on the Cambodians a modern twist to their penchant for iced coffee.
Similar in appearance to a grapefruit, tails of the mellifluous Starbucks mermaid murmurs its In much the same way, the Starbucks flagship store in Phnom
the pomelo swaps its relation's sour song of running water. It is in these locally produced art- Penh combines and celebrates its coffee legacy with the passion
bitterness for a mild sweetness. works where Starbucks 45-year coffee heritage meets and wonder that defines Cambodia’s own unmistakable story.
a culture that has a centuries-long chronicle to unfold. Store Address: No. 14, Street 57 & 288, Sangkat Boeung
Designed as a fully immersive, all-sensory experience that Keng Kang 1, Phnom Penh.

cuisine
Cuisine dreams Amansara’s cooking class whisks students from humming

markets to a stilted house footsteps from Angkor
Words by Ellie Dyer Photography by Sam Jam
Kitchen connections:
(from left) Amansara
pastry chef Orn Rady
adds chilli to a stir fry;
setting a lunch table
at the hotel’s Angkor
cooking class venue;
chopping ingredients
including onion and
eggplant
As
a beguiling aroma wafts by Amansara, arguably Temple Town’s us amongst the captivating chaos of Siem
through the air, a friendly finest hotel. Reap’s major market, Psar Leu.
figure whirls through the The journey to the kitchen – a stylish Within moments we were immersed
kitchen – slicing vegeta- yet rustic affair boasting bamboo walls, in a melting pot of sights and smells.
bles, tending pots and clattering pans – all open stoves and a window looking out Catfish wriggled in containers, awaiting
the while offering gentle encouragement onto a lush garden and the 10th-century the chop; motorbikes wove around locals
to the amateurs following suit. on the lookout for their next bargain;
The scene is reminiscent of one that Within moments we and stallholders guarded mountains of
is played out daily in homes across the unfamiliar delicacies.
globe: a knowledgeable elder passing on
were immersed in Luckily, Amansara pastry chef Orn
skills to a new generation hungry for a melting pot of sights Rady was on hand to lead us through
knowledge. But this is a culinary encoun- and smells the melee, demystifying exotic sights
ter with a luxurious twist. and smells along the way. Vast bowls
We are whipping up an authentic Srah Srang reservoir beyond – began of thick paste were revealed to be con-
Cambodian feast under the tutelage of early that morning. tainers of pungent prahok – Cambo-
Ouch Sambath, an experienced cook, in A smart minibus had plucked us from the dia’s beloved staple of fermented fish
the momentous environs of Siem Reap’s elegance of the Amansara, itself a former paste. Baskets full of silk worms and
world-famous Angkor Archaeological guest villa of Cambodia’s much-loved King bags of ants were exposed as edible
Park, as part of a cooking class organised Father Norodom Sihanouk, and deposited delights, while palm sugar doughnuts, g

PARK CAFE:
Nature’s flavours:
(clockwise from top)
Amansara’s wooden
stilted house where
novice cooks converge;
fresh vegetables used in AN ICONIC CAMBODIAN
a class; adding coconut
milk to a curry RESTAURANT CHAIN
It was in 2008 when Phnom Penh resident Chan Piseth
started to take more care about eating safely prepared food
after a discussion with his new neighbour, the owner of a
catering business.
The catering businessman told him that used oil from wedding
parties is often sold on to small restaurants in Phnom Penh, after
optimum amount of water in which to
which it is again reused by smaller eateries, then finally sold for use
cook perfectly fluffy rice and how to
best shape delicately spiced ground pork by street food vendors. For about a decade, Piseth has routinely
around fragrant lemongrass stalks to cre- eaten breakfast and lunch at Park Café – where he trusts that
ate exquisite grilled sachrut aing skewers. he will receive quality and safe food.
The pièce de résistance, however, proves Thousands of people in Phnom Penh are having a similar
to be the amok trei, a national favourite experience to Piseth. News about food scandals hitting the
that wonderfully showcases an essential nation’s food supply chains has made consumers concerned
element of Cambodian cuisine: tender about safety. When people have the money, they are willing to
freshwater fish. Our version of the famous pay higher prices for safer and more healthy food options where
curry is spiced with kroeung, a staple the quality is guaranteed.
spice paste containing ingredients typical
of the Kingdom’s aromatic cuisine: chilli,
lemongrass, garlic, galangal, turmeric and As it has earned confidence from consumers, Park Café
kaffir lime leaf. Coconut milk and egg enlarges its operations annually. While it had one branch in 2004,
yolk add texture to the creamy sauce, Park Café now has ten branches across the city and provides
elevated further by a generous handful jobs for about 350 Cambodian people. The number of consumers
of chopped green nyoa leaf. increased from 2,000 daily customers in 2014 to nearly 3,000
sprinkled with white sesame and doused grappling with spring roll wrappers, using We splurge on the morning’s spoils at the per day today.
with caramel, left us salivating. a method of dip, fold and roll to transform house’s homely on-site dining room, saving Heng Sengly, general manager of Park Café, said his restaurant
After picking up a bag of fresh veg- a generous pinch of chicken, vegetables stomach space for a generous portion of serves MSG-free food and follows the Hazard Analysis Critical
etables, we piled back in the bus for the and lettuce into fat finger-like appetisers. hand-rolled sticky dumplings surrounded Control Points (HACCP) food preparation management system
short drive to Amansara’s spectacular The treats prove fuel for the next few by tropical fruit and topped with a spoon- from United Kingdom.
Angkor oasis – a traditional stilted house hours, in which cucumber, carrot and ful of grated coconut. Earlier, we had “Good health is main factor for people’s succés – that is why
set near the magnificent 12th-century tem- white radish are transformed into chrouk inserted a pearl of solid sugar into each we build trust among our customers by guaranteeing that our
ple of Banteay Kdei – for a crash course chomroh (pickled vegetables) thanks to the pale sphere, providing an endorphin-laced
food is safe and healthy,” he said, adding that majority of Park
in Cambodian cookery. addition of ginger, lime juice, salt, sugar kick to the end of the meal and cement-
Café’s clients are office staff, government officers, and business
Amansara’s general manager, Sally and fish sauce. ing the discovery
people who use the place to eat and network. “We continue to
Baughen, describes the experience Novice hands are Discovering the that, sometimes,
grow every year and our customers also experience growth.”
as not only a chance “to learn about again put to work food tastes better
a cuisine that is relatively unknown” segmenting a juicy secrets of Cambodian when you make
Park Café’s operations are bigger than ever and tend toward
but also one that allows participants “to pomelo – an Asian cuisine in this rural idyll it yourself. the more professional in the industry. The firm has its own
gain deeper insights into rural life”. It’s fruit akin to a giant was truly an experience Rubbing satisfied professional training centre to be sure that all staff at Park Café
a point demonstrated by the building’s grapefruit – that bellies as butter- are skilled in an industry context and professional in their work.
pastoral setting, where the tranquillity will be paired with to savour flies flitted among Park Café is also on its way to offering franchises for local market.
is only broken by sounds typical of the fresh prawns to the trees and with Sengly said there will be five branches of Park Café operate under
Cambodian countryside: the whiz of a create a tangy Cambodian salad, with ancient archaeological wonders just franchisees by early 2017. Park Café will open two more branches
passing bicycle and the faint echo of the finishing touch provided by a burst around the corner, discovering the secrets next year, bringing the total number of outlets to 17 in 2017.
music piping in the distance. of fresh basil. of Cambodian cuisine in this rural idyll Meanwhile, among consumers such as Chan Piseth, the trend
Soon, under the careful tutelage of Throughout, Sambath proves a foun- was truly an experience to savour – long to eat safe food will only increase, and food safety will become
Sambath a tornado of gastronomic activity tain of knowledge, imparting key advice after the fruits of our labour had been a greater priority. “I dare to spend a little bit more on quality
whirls into action. Our class begins by in his avuncular style – tips such as the enthusiastically devoured. food from reliable sources rather than ignore food safety and
spend money on medical bills,” he said.

CUISINE
The world on your fingertips

The planet’s most popular cuisines are all present and correct in Cambodia, Japanese Indian
where it’s easy to find praiseworthy pizza and tikka worth travelling for
Japub Dakshin’s
Of the many Japanese Cambodia is home to a great
restaurants in Phnom Penh, deal of excellent Indian food,
French Japub seems to have captured but this smart little restaurant
La Résidence the imagination more than most. in Siem Reap might just be the
The Gallic influence remains strong Its diminutive stature – it seats best. The menu is extensive
in Cambodia, with a great many just eight people and does not and largely excellent but, in
French restaurants, from casual accept reservations – results in our opinion, two of the house
bistros to silver service almost constant queues outside, specialities are the star turns –
extravaganzas, all turning out as does the excellent nigiri and be sure to kick things off with
predictably excellent food. La sashimi, though we would the plump and spicy Dakshin
Résidence is a perennial favourite, recommend the omakase menu prawns before feeling the hearty
and while it is difficult to look past selected by the chef. burn of the fried pepper lamb.
classics such as beef tartare and
tournedos rossini, digging a little
deeper into the menu, particularly
among the fish offerings, is highly
recommended.
Chinese
Sevensea Italian
This modern space overlooking Il Forno
Diamond Island in Phnom Penh With a lovely al fresco spot in Siem Reap
serves up high-grade Chinese food and a ritzier outpost in Phnom Penh,
American
Photos: Sam Jam for Discover (3)
ET BEL
to a discerning clientele. The menu Il Forno is widely agreed to be M
Brooklyn Pizza and Bistro
• GOUR
GI
covers everything from Cantonese Cambodia’s finest purveyor of Italian
AN C
barbecue to excellent wok-fried food. The wood-fired pizzas are Brooklyn’s opening heralded a big step up for Cambodia in the American
H
T OC
options, but it’s the house speciality excellent, as is the tortelli with parma comfort food stakes. There’s definitely no better place in the country for
OLA
seafood platters that will astound ham and porcini mushrooms, but for American-style, thicker crust pizzas, while pretty much everything else on the
eyes and tastebuds in equal measure. a mighty meaty treat go for the spare ribs menu – from burgers and barbecue ribs to chicken wings and Cuban sandwiches
smothered in honey and mustard seeds. – rarely slips below excellent.

CUISINE
Street foodie
Cambodia’s street food may not enjoy the prestige
afforded some of its neighbours but, as these Banh Chao
local specialities prove, the Kingdom has plenty (aka Khmer meat pancake)
A savoury snack usually grabbed
to offer the intrepid culinary crusader on the go in the evening, this
rice flour pancake is stuffed with
Photograph by Sam Jam chopped pork, onion, carrot and
bean sprouts, folded and served
with a side of fresh vegetables.
Usual cost: $1
Bok Lahong
(aka papaya salad)
This sweet, spicy, tangy concoction
brings together a profusion of
ingredients including dried shrimp,
peanuts, papaya, lime and marinated
crab, all smashed together in
a mortar and pestle.
Usual cost: 75 cents
Nom Banh Chok

(aka Khmer noodles)
The Kingdom’s famed rice noodles
are at the heart of this classic dish,
usually served alongside various
chopped raw vegetables including
waterlily stalks, banana flowers and
green beans.
Usual cost: $1 to $1.50
Bai Sach Chrouk

(aka pork and rice)
Cambodia’s favourite breakfast
is a simple yet delicious
combination of marinated grilled
pork with boiled white rice and
pickled vegetables. An optional
fried egg tops the dish
off perfectly.
Usual cost: $1 to $2
Discover cambodia Sleep | Eat | Drink | Explore
The
guide
Whether delving into city life
in Phnom Penh, exploring the ancient
temples of Siem Reap, wandering the
idyllic beaches of the south coast or
trekking in deep jungle, tap into the very
best the Kingdom has to offer
Photo: Sam Jam for Discover
brought to you by
Look for this symbol, which points you to establishments where Visa is accepted:
Discover Cambodia: Sleep | Eat | Drink | Explore g
Natural products handmade in Cambodia
A world’s wonder
With its profile of tiered towers and
monumental walkways, Angkor
Wat stands as the apogee of Khmer
art and civilisation. The religious
structure, the world’s largest,
is steeped in symbolism. Walk
over the enclosing moat, across
causeways and into successive
layers and compounds to reach
Must-see sights
a heavenly inner sanctum – the
whole being a representation of
Natural cosmetics, soaps, Cambodian spices, Kampot pepper,
Mount Meru, the Hindu equivalent
aromatic candles, incense, flavoured coffees and teas,…
of Mount Olympus. Much more than
a picturesque ruin, it embodies Siem Reap Shop ― opposite Old Market, tel : 063 964 801
Cambodia, both ancient and Siem Reap Workshop ― National 6 (airport road)
Phnom Penh Shop ― Street 178 (opposite National Museum)
modern, and has been revered from
its construction in the 12th century www.senteursdangkor.com
right up to the present day.
Jewel in the crown temple of heaven

Established as the seat of Cambodia’s royalty in 1866, the Angkor Wat may be the peak of Cambodia’s architec-
Royal Palace is but a baby when compared to the coun- tural wonders, but Prasat Preah Vihear literally sits on
try’s many ancient temples. Yet with its pointed spires and top of a mountain. Perched 525m up on the edge of
crenellated ivory-coloured walls, it’s an architectural jewel. the Dangkrek escarpment,the temple has been a centre
Highlights include the Silver Pagoda, which contains countless of pilgrimage throughout the ages, and all of lowland
jewelled treasures, a cast-iron pavilion originally used at the Cambodia seems to unfold beneath its sandstone struc-
opening of the Suez canal, and the throne hall, once the centre tures. From the northern end, the complex runs 800m to
of the royal court and still used for ceremonies today. the cliff’s edge, taking in a number of stairways and atmo-
spheric pavilions. And with a new road from Siem Reap
by Senteurs d’Angkor
Photos: Hannah Reyes/Ruom (2); Heng Sinith/AP (1); Manuel Ceneta/AFP (1)
now in place, it can be easily added to your itinerary.
Dark memories
Although Cambodia is relatively peaceful today, the
violence of the Khmer Rouge years has left an indelible
mark on the Kingdom. The murders of those considered
enemies were carried out across the country, with the
sites of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung
Heritage preserved Ek killing fields in Phnom Penh amongst the best
Described as “a building enlarged from gods carved in stone to intricate bronze preserved and curated. The former served as an inter-
Cambodian temple prototypes seen on representations of Buddha, the artworks rogation centre; the latter as a place of execution. Both
ancient bas-reliefs and reinterpreted on show encompass a wide sweep of are unflinching reminders of a time when ultra-Maoist
through colonial eyes”, the National Cambodia’s cultural heritage. By striving to dogma superseded common morality and Cambodian
Museum is much more than an attractive preserve this artistic legacy and to repatri- society turned on itself. Visiting the sites is a grim expe-
structure. Its walls house one of the most ate pieces looted during times of war, the rience, but they are nonetheless rewarding for those
extensive collections of ancient Khmer museum authorities are preserving a sense prepared to look deeper into the dark side of humanity Aromatherapy massage, khmer massage, stone massage,
art in the world. From monumental Hindu of pride in the nation’s past. and to better understand modern Cambodia. candle massage, body scrubs and wraps, facial masks,
waxing, manicure and pedicure,…
Kaya Spa ― Hospital street (opposite Siem Reap Old Market)

from 10am to 10:30pm, tel : 063 966 736
www.kaya-angkor.com
Discover phnom penh: Sleep | Eat | Drink | Explore g
Phnom Penh
From the ornate roofs of the Royal Palace to
the glistening steel of the Vattanac Tower,
Sleep
Raffles Hotel Le Royal
Since opening its doors in 1929, Le Royal
has contributed to the long and rich
history of the Cambodian capital. Charlie
Chaplin and Jacqueline Kennedy were
once guests – the Femme Fatale cocktail
Cambodia’s capital is a fascinating blend of invented for the first lady is still served at
traditional and modern. Even as the skyline the hotel’s Elephant Bar – while the chaos
reaches ever upward, the city manages to of the 1970s saw war correspondents
retain a small-town vibe. With swanky bars stationed at the complex. Today, Raffles
and restaurants fit to grace any capital, this is a bastion of colonial-era charm, with an
buzzing metropolis is definitely on the up equally elegant outpost in Siem Reap. Soak
in claw-footed bathtubs or discover the
well-preserved features throughout for a
taste of enduring luxury and times gone by.
Tel: +855 (0)23 981 888
raffles.com/phnom-penh
Arunreas Plantation Discover Aquarius

A relative newcomer to Phnom Penh’s luxury hotel scene, Providing an oasis of TIP Named after a constellation that
symbolises the zodiac’s water
Arunreas has raised the bar for boutique properties in the peace in urban Phnom
Be sure to carrier, it’s fitting that Aquarius has
capital. The large rooms are full of luxurious furnishings Penh, Plantation combines
check your a spectacular rooftop pool, largely
and welcome touches such as a complimentary minibar and modern creature comforts change thanks to a transparent section of wall
toiletries by L’Occitane. They also contain the biggest baths with effortless style. carefully no that allows views of swimmers plung-
we’ve ever seen, which would comfortably accommodate a Known for the regular art matter the
ing beneath the surface. If that wasn’t
family of four. The exquisite design throughout the property exhibitions held around source, as
dollar bills enough, slick classic-meets-industrial
includes welcome nods to Cambodia, with paintings by its spectacular lotus
that are design, sweeping views from its open-
Chhim Sothy lining the hallways and rooms featuring their pond, the city-centre
tattered, air sky bar and a prime location on
very own bas-reliefs depicting heavenly apsara dancers. sanctuary also boasts one
ripped, or even boutique-lined Street 240 have made
Tel: +855 (0)15 813 888 of the best pools in the just old can it one of the most talked about new
arunreas.com city – a vision in turquoise prove rather additions in town.
banked by tropical palms difficult to
and canopied pavilions. spend. +855 (0)23 972 088
Rooms are light and airy, aquariushotel.asia
embracing a minimalist
style that contrasts
perfectly with the original Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra
architecture of the Lush gardens encircle the sprawling Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra
1930s reception, making complex, where well-appointed rooms and a sense of French
Plantation a sumptuous refinement combine to create luxurious five-star accommodation in
symphony of old and new. the heart of the city. The generous pool and indulgent brunch buffet
Tel: +855 (0)23 215 151 at La Coupole, just one of five on-site restaurants, have made Sofitel a
theplantation.asia favourite haunt for the city’s expats, but it’s the top-class facilities and
views across a rapidly developing city that will stay in guests’ minds.
Tel: +855 (0)23 999 200
sofitel.com
Serviced capital’s French colonial past. Over
apartments in the sought-after Boeung Keng
Kang area, Silvertown Metropolitan
has an ultra-modern feel to its 15
If your stay in Phnom Penh extends storeys and bills itself as having all
beyond a few days, you would do you would expect from a hotel with
well to consider one of the capital’s “the touches that make it a home”.
serviced apartments. Located in the Finally, Bellevue, very much living up
heart of the commercial district, to its name, boasts great river vistas
Central Mansions mixes contemporary over the Tonle Sap from the peaceful
luxury with the architecture of the Chruoy Changvar peninsula.
68 Discover
68 Discover2016
2017The Essence
The of Cambodia
Essence of Cambodia The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2017 69
EAT: After dark EAT: lunches & brunches

The tiger’s Eye
The latest incarnation of chef Timothy Bruyns’ culinary adventures
in Cambodia, the Tiger’s Eye remains the capital’s go-to spot for
serious foodies. The slick, contemporary space creates a laid-back
atmosphere in which to sample the most daintily presented food
in the country. With each dish delivered personally by Bruyns,
WE RESPECT TRADITIONS,
the five-course tasting menu is definitely the way to go, as this is
where the South African chef whips off his gloves and gets truly
creative. Pig’s head terrine and seabass with a local spice mixture
known as kroeung are two stalwarts on the frequently changing
menu.
THE OLDEST ITALIAN TRADITIONS.
Tel: +855 (0)17 876 382
thetigerseye.asia
- HOTEL - RESTAURANT - WINE BAR -
PHNOM PENH & SIEM REAP
Quitapenas Enso Café
Having chosen a name that translates as ‘remover of sorrows’, Set on leafy Street 240, one of the capital’s options are what this place is most famous
the team at Quitapenas are obviously rather confident in the best roads for languid browsing, Enso Café for, and we would recommend the avocado
charms of their creative Spanish cuisine. And so they should be. wasted no time in capturing the hearts of and feta smash with basil, or the chak
Set in a pleasantly restored villa not far from the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh’s brunchers. This large, modern chouka, a Tunisian dish of baked eggs with
Quitapenas offers both traditional and contemporary fare, with space is splashed with colonial-style tiles chorizo, peppers, tomatoes and olives.
highlights including the Spanish classic of paella and the goat and an eclectic collection of reading materials Tel: +855 (0)78 626 240
cheese balls with caramelised onion, the latter almost guarantee- to match its wide-ranging menu. The brunch enso-cafe.com
ing an eye-widening moment of surprise and pleasure when the
first one bursts inside your mouth.
Tel: +855 (0)88 822 2880 Lemon Tree
quitapenas-restaurant.com Phnom Penh’s prettiest lunchtime spot, Lemon
Tree is set inside and outside of a traditional
wooden house that has been rejuvenated by
Kravanh a vivid paint job in sunny turquoise and yellow.
There is a great deal of competition for the title of Phnom Penh’s Equally bright deck chairs encircle wooden
best Cambodian food, but we think Kravanh just about edges it. The tables, while the day’s menu is handwritten
restaurant is simple yet elegant, with high-powered politicians and on chalkboards. Pretty much everything on the
businesspeople regularly discussing the issues of the day over the Mediterranean-influenced menu is good, particu-
restaurant’s extensive menu. Cambodia’s national dish, fish amok, larly the hefty salads and freshly baked quiches,
is on point here, while any of the fabulously rich curries are also but it takes an especially strong will to resist the
a good choice. For something a little different, we’d recommend the potatoes cooked in goose fat and served with
nataing, a warm, prawn-based dip served with rice crackers. homemade mayo – if they don’t come as part of
Tel: +855 (0)12 539 977 your meal, be sure to order them as a side.
Chinese House Tel: +855 (0)15 315 300
It is difficult to pin down exactly what the Expect fusion food that draws influences Lot 369
highlight of Chinese House is: the inventive from all four corners of the globe, from okra Home to the best breakfast and brunch
and constantly evolving menu of exciting lamb kofta and Thai fishcakes to laksa and Backyard Café options in the increasingly cool Russian
young South African chef Amy Baard, or wagyu beef, as well as creative cocktails Backyard is the place to be for those who take Market area, Lot 369 brings a slice of
the exquisite old Chinese merchant’s and a popular brunch menu at weekends. a healthy diet seriously. Perennially packed, this Australia’s world-class café culture to
house, dating to the first few years of the Tel: +855 (0)92 553 330 white, airy space just a stone’s throw from the Phnom Penh. Most seating is al fresco,
20th century, that the restaurant is set in? restaurant-phnompenh.com Royal Palace is well established on the capital’s though there is a small air-conditioned
food scene and had just opened a Siem Reap space upstairs, along with a children’s
outpost, known as Vibe, as Discover went to playroom. The focus here is on great coffee
Romdeng coconut-scented red sticky rice with mango press. Expect plenty of vegan, raw and gluten- and brunch-type fare such as the superb
Besides being one of the best places in in the vibrantly adorned eatery, which is free options, such as the abundance bowl, paleo muesli served with a miniature
the capital to test your tastebuds with run by Mith Samlanh – an organisation that packed full of tempeh, quinoa, cashew cheese cleansing green smoothie. For the treat
creepy-crawlies – try the crunchy tarantulas has worked with former street children and and all manner of good stuff. This is health food, days, however, it’s difficult to look past the
for an eight-legged treat – this perennial marginalised young people since 1994. but it’s health food served in giant portions to breakfast stack – a poached egg, tomato,
star of the restaurant scene offers up Tel: +855 (0)92 219 565 get you through the day. spinach and bacon piled on a homemade
contemporary Cambodian cookery. Spoil tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/ Tel: +855 (0)78 751 715 hash brown.
yourself with five-spiced pork belly or romdeng backyardeats.com Tel: +855 (0)12 345 541
drink
PHONE: 077 749 686 FB: @ALCHEMYGASTRO

# 3 6 S T. # 1 2 3 , R U S S I A N M A R K E T A R E A
Elbow Room Discover Bassac Lane BattBong

Designed by the people behind Tippling Club, one of TIP This hip little warren of bars shows no sign of slowing down, The speakeasy trend hit Phnom Penh this past year with the
Singapore’s original and most important gastro-cocktail bars, with new projects springing up frequently and a steady slew of opening of BattBong, a funky little spot that’s suitably light on
Elbow Room would not look out of place in any of the world’s One of the capital’s satisfied customers. Its concealed location means that Bassac windows but heavy on atmosphere. In true speakeasy style,
drinking capitals. The masculine design also manages to best-value dining Lane has managed to retain its status as an in-the-know the entrance is tucked down a relatively quiet alleyway and
options is the wine
throw a dash of boudoir into the mix, but this place is all about destination, but the word is getting out about spots such as disguised as a Coca-Cola machine, but ease it open and expect
and cheese night at
the unique creations of head bartender Jen Queen. With an Khema restaurant, Cicada, which specialises in gin, Meat and Drink, where qual- a glorious hodgepodge of brushed cement, leather banquettes
uncanny eye for unusual ingredients, she has fashioned a hip- located inside ity burgers mix with mean Bloody Marys, and Hangar 44, with and bright Cambodian artworks, along with a number of
hop inspired menu that includes such delights as Chilli Paste Arunreas hotel. Just its unabashed motorbike fetish and hefty cocktails served in unique drinks such as the house speciality Melrose, a mix of
Yo Face, a mixture of tequila, sherry, chilli tincture, pressed $20 (at the time of steel mugs. Jim Beam, elderflowers, rose, grapefruit and lime.
ginger and citrus. print) entitles diners Tel: +855 (0)77 555 447 Tel: +855 (0)69 291 643
Tel: +855 (0)78 890 617 to unlimited pours facebook.com/bassaclanephnompenh
of Hob Nob red and
Photos: Thomas Cristofoletti for Discover (2)

white house wines,
as well as a help- hops craft beer garden
Le Moon yourself-selection of After what seemed like an eternity, Phnom Penh has caught
There are few better ways to spend a couple of hours in Phnom fine cheeses, cured the craft beer bug and is slowly being inundated with quality
Penh than at a rooftop bar that takes in the soporific ebb and flow of meats, salads, nuts, brews. Hops Craft Beer Garden has established itself as one
the city’s mighty rivers. Situated with a perfect view of the juncture freshly baked breads of the city’s best spots for a beer after, reassuringly, enlisting
between the Mekong, Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers, Le Moon is the pick and much more. a German brewmaster to create its four house brews plus
of the bunch when it comes to riverside rooftop bars. With a great occasional special guest ales. This giant space also boasts
happy hour, a fine selection of beers and all the classic cocktails arguably the city’s best pool tables.
present and correct, the only thing left to do is gaze in quiet awe. Tel: +855 (0)93 999 017
Tel: +855 (0)23 214 747 hops-brewery.com
explore
Khmer Architecture Tours

With gleaming spires, ornate temples and 1960s jewels
galore, Cambodia’s capital is alive with architectural
wonders. Perhaps the best way to get an insight into the
city’s landmarks is to traverse the streets of Phnom Penh
with the knowledgeable folk at Khmer Architecture Tours.
The group organises a range of trips, all led by local artists,
architects and students, but has a particular focus on post-
independence buildings, such as those created by national
icon Vann Molyvann.
Tel: +855 (0)17 369 743
ka-tours.org
Discover get sporty

TIP Set foot in any of the city’s parks at
dusk and you’ll find tracksuit-clad
Sweet treats Discover Phnom Chisor Log on to folk bopping to the latest Asian
Any experienced sightseer knows that with local flavours, Bloom is a cupcake- TIP A panorama of emerald-green paddy fields
utopia-asia.
com for an
techno beats as part of an open-air
a hard day of touring is best topped off lovers’ paradise, while La Pâtisserie by stretches out beneath the peak of Phnom Chisor, assortment aerobics class. A small fee will enable
with a sugar kick, and Phnom Penh is Christophe offers a range of authentic While the located about 60km from Phnom Penh in Takeo of LGBT- you to join in the gently paced action,
brimming with opportunities to indulge European delicacies. But for a dose of tuk tuk is an province. The hilltop not only provides spectacular friendly travel but for those less athletically inclined
a sweet tooth. The Chocolate Shop drama, stop off at Nuk Café near Central unmissable views but is also home to an 11th-century temple. resources for there are plenty of opportunities to
component the region.
provides a surefire endorphin hit with Market, which serves up ice cream made Given the lengthy journey, it’s best to hire a car to watch local sportspeople working
of any trip to From sights
its range of cacao-laced treats paired with steaming liquid nitrogen. Cambodia, take you to the site in comfort, before hiking up the up a sweat. Cambodian kickboxing,
and tours to
sometimes hundreds of steps that lead to the summit. Brave known as Kun Khmer and fought to
dining and
the comfort of the heat to be rewarded with a true treasure: dating, Utopia a soundtrack of hypnotic traditional
a regular taxi a jaw-dropping vista of rural Cambodia. provides music, takes place weekly at TV sta-
is required. fantastic tions across the capital. For football
There are a insights into fans, the Cambodian Premier League
number of Silk Island the local kicks off at weekends with most games
Photos: Ryan Plummer (1); Sam Jam for Discover (1)

reputable scene.
companies
The clatter of looms rings out from beneath the held at the striking Olympic Stadium.
in Phnom houses of Silk Island, known locally as Koh Dach,
Penh, such as a pastoral idyll set about 30 minutes from central
Taxi Rouge, Phnom Penh. Known for its community of weav-
Choice, Global ers, many of whom sell their wares to passing
and Great visitors, the bucolic isle is full of shady tracks,
Wall. Prices river views and fruit and vegetable patches.
are often
Take a local ferry – along with a cross-section
lower than
tuk tuks, but of Cambodian commuters – to reach the island,
insist that the which is best explored by tuk tuk. For those who
driver uses prefer two wheels, Grasshopper Adventures also
the meter. runs excellent cycling trips to the area.
Discover SIEM REAP: Sleep | Eat | Drink | Explore g
Sleep
Phum Baitang
Buxom buffaloes regularly traipse slowly
around the eight hectares of refined green-
ery at Phum Baitang, the closest one can
come to a rural Cambodian experience
without compromising on impeccable
taste. Raised wooden walkways jut out
of fully functioning rice paddies, and the
subtle scent of fresh lemongrass perfumes
the grounds, but the real stars of the
show are the 45 villas, each one a careful
replica of traditional stilted houses. Inside,
exquisitely scarred floorboards continue the
rustic charm alongside antique furniture
and contemporary comforts including
freestanding terrazzo baths and plump beds
that prove heartachingly difficult to leave.
Tel: +855 (0)63 961 111
phumbaitang.com
Rambutan Resort and Hotel Discover Sala Lodges

‘Location, location, location’ is a mantra TIP Sala Lodges’ exceptional accommo-
for the property world, and Rambutan dations are the result of an equally
has this all wrapped up. With a resort For a fun yet exceptional logistical feat. Eleven tradi-
and a hotel set down a picturesque eco-friendly tional wooden houses were identified
way to
lane near the centre of Siem Reap, the explore Siem
in the provinces of Cambodia, bought,
LGBT-friendly accommodation provides Reap’s famed dismantled, transported and rebuilt on
an excellent base for those who want temples, check Sala’s sweeping grounds on the outskirts
to be close to the buzzing restaurant out Green of Siem Reap. The unique style and
and nightlife quarter of Temple Town. e-bike, which history of each stilted building seems to
And while generous balconies, open-air rents electric pervade the resort, creating a wonderful
bathtubs and swimming pools provide bicycles to aura for guests who leave luxuriously
tourists, with
definite ‘wow’ factor, it’s the fantastic appointed rooms behind to sample the
charging
setting and friendly staff that really set points delights on offer at the restaurant or float
the Rambutans above the pack. strategically their troubles away at the sizeable pool.
Tel: +855 (0)63 766 655 located around Tel: +855 (0)63 766 699
rambutanhotelsr.com Angkor. salalodges.com
Navutu Dreams
Relaxed luxury is the name of the game at
Navutu, where three sparkling swimming
Photos: Vittorio Velasquez (1), Sam Jam, both for Discover (1)
pools, resident wellness experts and a
laid-back vibe create a space in which
to revitalise and rejuvenate. Lush
gardens provide a chance for guests
No visit to Cambodia is complete without laying eyes on Angkor’s to unwind amongst the natural beauty
ancient splendour, making Siem Reap the country’s most-visited of the countryside, while the subtle
destination. Also home to some of the country’s finest hotels, use of white and aqua shades hint at a
brightest culinary minds and most exhilarating countryside Mediterranean influence. With spacious
excursions, a trip to Siem Reap is always so much more than rooms housed in low-slung pavilions and
temple gazing dining offered at a spectacular circular
restaurant, it’s the perfect spot to
Siem Reap
soothe your soul.
Tel: +855 (0)63 964 864
navutudreams.com
Face off: the magnificent
Bayon temple in the Angkor
Archaeological Park
76 Discover
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2017The Essence
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Essence of Cambodia The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2017 77
sleep
Park Hyatt
Located on Sivutha Boulevard, one of Siem Reap’s key
thoroughfares, Park Hyatt brings all the class you would
expect from one of the world’s most renowned luxury
hotel companies. The communal spaces are particularly
striking, from the beautiful inner courtyard where
swinging day beds are gathered around a serpentine
tree, to the Living Room, a chic bar-lounge of plush
velvet seating, dark woods and intimate corners. The
first-floor pool is also a delight – a semi-covered lagoon
of miniature bridges and lush gardens that is perfect for
unwinding following a day of temple traipsing.
Tel: +855 (0)63 211 234
siemreap.park.hyatt.com
Shinta Mani
Designed by legendary architect Bill Bensley, dubbed
“the king of exotic luxury resorts” by Time magazine,
Shinta Mani is made up of two properties on either side
of Oum Khun Street – Shinta Mani Club and Shinta Mani
Resort. Both are clearly graced by Bensley’s charmed
touch, and the result is two properties that feel exhila-
ratingly tropical, yet never at the expense of a certain
refinement. Shinta Mani’s greatest strength, however,
is its staff. Professional, friendly and, most importantly,
relaxed, they are some of the best we have come across
anywhere, not just in Cambodia.
Tel: +855 (0)63 761 998
shintamani.com
Amansara the difference. However, it is Aman- Discover

Formerly the guest villa of Cambodia’s sara’s service and informal atmosphere TIP
beloved late King Father Norodom Siha- that are its most striking elements.
nouk, Amansara remains the byword for Staff chat casually with guests, who are Key phrases
luxury in Siem Reap. The 24 suites are treated more like old friends than lords f Hello
modern and supremely well-appointed, of the manor, making for genuinely Sua s’dei
two pools compete for your attention, enjoyable connections between workers f Goodbye
Lia hao-y
and small touches, such as complimen- and visitors.
f How are you?
tary cheeses and cakes served all day in Tel: +855 (0)63 760 333 Sok sabai?
the striking circular restaurant, make all aman.com/resorts/amansara f Sorry
Sohm toh
f Yes
Baat (man)
Jaa (woman)
f No
Ot tay
f Thank you
Awkun
f No problem
Ot benh haa

f Left
Ch’weng
f Right
S’dam
f Straight on
Doh trong
EAT: after dark

Malis Mie Café
Cambodia’s undisputed celebrity The word ‘café’ certainly does not do this place justice, as
chef Luu Meng has finally brought his chef Pola Siv has actually created one of the most exciting
hugely successful Malis restaurant to restaurants in the country. It has taken a while for Siv to
Siem Reap. The cavernous building hit his stride, but he is now writing confident menus full of
is a sight in itself, its extravagant modern cuisine steeped in the flavours and ingredients of
elegance setting the scene for an Cambodia. We’d recommend the tasting menu, five courses
evening to remember. The Cambodian of creative, beautifully plated food that on our visit included
food here is quite traditional in its a lip smackingly sharp snake head fish carpaccio served with
approach, but prepared with the a creamy poached egg tempura, as well as a smoky take on
finest ingredients and a genuine the Khmer classic of minced pork with eggplant – the best
depth of knowledge – it was Meng version of this dish we’ve tasted anywhere in the country.
that Gordon Ramsay learned from Tel: +855 (0)12 791 371
when shooting his TV show in miecafe-siemreap.com
Cambodia. Menu highlights include
the royal mak mee, a crispy noodle
dish prepared tableside, and samlor
korko, a rich slow-cooked stew with
pork and pumpkin.
Tel: +855 (0)16 804 888
malis-restaurant.com/siemreap
L’annexe Cuisine Wat Damnak

A recent addition to Siem Reap’s dining Cambodia’s only entry in the highly
scene, L’annexe turns out French clas- respected Asia’s Top 50 Restaurants
sics with aplomb. Set outdoors, one half list, Cuisine Wat Damnak is responsible
of the restaurant is resplendent with for elevating Cambodian cuisine to a
plants and open to the elements, while higher plane. There isn’t much that chef
the other is only slightly more formal, Johannes Riviere doesn’t know about
featuring red and white tablecloths and Khmer dishes and ingredients, and his
tucked under a thatched roof. Standout modern interpretations of local flavours Olive
dishes include the flammekueche, make this the one true must-visit This is one spot in Temple Town where a reservation is
a thin-crusted tart-cum-pizza from restaurant in Siem Reap. Dishes include verging on a necessity. The secret is very much out and Olive
the Alsace region, and a rack of lamb treasures such as candied pomelo skin is, quite rightly, packing them in every night. A focus on
braised for seven hours and glazed with and Koh Kong scallops that are only high-quality ingredients cooked well shines through, and chef
pinot noir sauce. However, for those in season for two months a year. With Dorn Doeurt, formerly of Park Hyatt, is rapidly becoming one
craving true French tradition, it would two tasting menus at relatively bargain of the country’s most celebrated. In fact, local culinary legend
be difficult to top the wonderfully rich prices for food of this quality, bookings Johannes Riviere insists that Olive is “the best restaurant in the
beef bourguignon. are definitely recommended. city right now” – high praise indeed. Be sure to try the baked
Tel: +855 (0)95 839 745 Tel: +855 (0)77 347 762 snow fish, which is served in a rich, complex broth of edamame
annexesiemreap.com cuisinewatdamnak.com beans, artichoke heart, bacon, sweetcorn and black olives.
Tel: +855 (0)63 769 899
Discover
Mahob TIP
A traditional Khmer wooden house is the scene for some of
the country’s most ingenious Cambodian food. Critter cuisine
is the order of
Chef Sothea Seng honed his culinary vision in restaurants
the day at Siem
across Cambodia, along with stints at luxury hotels in Dubai Reap’s Bugs
and the Caribbean. This range of influences presents itself Café, where

in his food, which often provides a modern take on classic diners can feast
dishes. This is best demonstrated by Mahob’s incarnation on ant-stuffed
of beef lok lak, which eschews the normal stir-fried method spring rolls,
in favour of a grilled cut of prime beef, served with water- tarantula
doughnuts and
cress and Kampot pepper.
insect skewers.
Tel: +855 (0)70 926 562
mahobkhmer.com
Discover SIEM REAP: Sleep | Eat | Drink | Explore g SINCE 1997
EAT: lunches & brunches drink

The Little Red Fox Espresso Linga Bar
Undoubtedly Siem Reap’s coffee king, Linga Bar is approaching institution status in Siem Reap.
the Little Red Fox is a hip wee place This pleasant little LGBT-friendly spot rightly prides itself
with portraits of 1960s Cambodian on its professional yet fun bar staff and unobtrusive party
rock’n’rollers by artist Sasha Constable vibe. Owner Martin Dishman is a most convivial host and
and a single turntable and small vinyl goldmine of Temple Town information, having resided in
collection belting out tunes from those the Kingdom for 13 years. Along with the nectarous lychee
same musical trailblazers. The food, martini, a definite Linga Bar highlight is the sculpture by
mainly sourced from local growers, is Sopheap Pich, Cambodia’s most renowned contemporary
great, but it’s the coffee that’s the real artist, which fits snugly above the bar and was bought
star of the show here. Run by coffee by Dishman more than a decade ago for a fraction of its
nuts for coffee nuts, the drinks menu is current value.
extensive, though we were particularly Tel: +855 (0)12 755 311
blown away by the lemongrass and lingabar.com
ginger latte.
Tel: +855 (0)16 669 724
thelittleredfoxespresso.com
Joe To Go
Temple Town’s original spot for a top
quality cup o’ joe is still going strong.
This cute little place is slap bang in
the centre of town and provides a fine
option for some R&R after hours spent
haggling in Old Market just up the street.
Given the name, coffee is the order of
the day here, but Joe To Go also serves
up excellent café fare with an enjoyably
homemade quality. As an added bonus,
this is a café with a heart, with all profits Asana
going to help the Global Child, a school Siem Reap’s quaintest bar is tucked in an alleyway just
for former street children. off of nightlife behemoth Pub Street but offers a far more
Tel: +855 (0)98 939 066 serene experience than the all-singing, all-dancing alterna-
joetogo.org tives nearby. This converted wooden home has hammocks
and seating made of filled sacks from which to enjoy one
of the house speciality cocktails that are built around local
Discover Sister Srey Café ingredients, from Kampot pepper to dragon fruit. For those
TIP This sweet little café is wishing to learn even more, Asana offers a daily cocktail
one of Siem Reap’s most class that will have you shaking up masterful creations in
Down Siem popular, partly thanks to its no time.
Reap’s Alley
wonderful location on the Tel: +855 (0)92 987 801
West lies
Gelato Lab, river, but mainly because it asana-cambodia.com
which turns out turns out consistently good
comfortably the breakfasts and lunchtime
best ice cream snacks. From French toast Siem Reap Brewpub
in the country stuffed with bacon and A modern, al fresco space set around a central pond, Siem
– although the cream cheese to the toasted Reap Brewpub is a self-contained microbrewery that’s tap-
owners, true
pumpkin pide or the signa- ping into the worldwide trend for higher-quality beer options
aficionados,
ture ‘bowl of goodness’ with – and doing so with aplomb. With a blonde ale, golden

would likely
bristle at the homemade falafel and hum- ale, honey weiss, IPA and dark ale on offer, it can be rather
term ‘ice cream’. mus, it’s hard to go wrong difficult to choose just one. Thankfully, for patrons who want
Either way, it is with the food menu, while to try a variety while retaining the ability to walk in a straight
wonderful and the coffee is also among the line, there is the sample set, which offers four 85ml tasters,
an ideal way to
cool down in the
best in town. each served in a unique, and rather cute, miniature glass. PHNOM PENH’S ICONIC
Tel: +855 (0)88 607 2166 Tel: +855 (0)80 888 555
heat of the day.
sistersreycafe.com siemreapbrewpub.asia BISTRO & RESTAURANT ON THE RIVERSIDE
241 SISOWATH QUAY | PHNOM PENH
+855 (0)23 220 554
82 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia Open daily from
The7AM
Essence- of
1AMCambodia Discover 2017 83
EXPLORE EXPLORE
Landmine Museum Artisans Angkor
Aki Ra spent much of his early life This organisation has been
as a Khmer Rouge child soldier. pursuing a noble mission since
After the toppling of the regime in 1998 – to revive ancient Khmer
1979, he devoted his life to remov- arts and crafts while improving
ing landmines and caring for young the lives of thousands of people
landmine victims in Cambodia. living in rural areas. Visitors
He claims to have personally de- can stop by their town centre
stroyed as many as 50,000 mines workshop to watch local artisans
since 1992 and is the founder demonstrate their craft or, for
of the landmine museum about a more authentic experience,
25km from Siem Reap town. The take part in tours to the coun-
museum aims to educate visitors tryside organised by Artisans
about the importance of clearing Angkor that give an even deeper
mines in Cambodia, with ticket look into the life and art of these
purchases and donations allowing highly skilled individuals. The
the museum to pay fair wages, pieces produced make wonderful
care for vulnerable children and gifts, and the organisation has
help clear the country’s remaining a number of outlets in both Siem
five million landmines. Reap and Phnom Penh.
Tel: +855 (0)15 674 163 Tel: +855 (0)63 964 097
cambodialandminemuseum.com artisansdangkor.com
Phare Cambodian narratives. As if the jaw- Hot air balloons
i n e ss
happis in d
Phare performed its first circus show dropping acrobatics weren’t enough, There are two hot air balloon companies operating in the Siem
in Siem Reap in 2013 and has since Phare is also a social enterprise, with all Reap area, one of which offers a balloon ride that remains teth-
n
become one of the city’s top attractions, performers graduates of Phare Ponleu ered to a rope, ascending and descending more or less vertically.
with nightly indoor performances under- Selpak, an NGO school and arts training At $20 for a ten-minute session, this is an affordable way to get
h a
your
neath an iconic red big top. The shows centre that works with children from unforgettable views of Angkor Wat and the surrounding country-
combine dance, theatre, original live difficult backgrounds. side. Alternatively, 30-minute free-floating trips are also available
music and thrilling circus performances Tel: +855 (0)15 499 480 but cost in excess of $100. Included in the price is hotel pick
to explore traditional and contemporary pharecircus.org up, an English-speaking guide, exquisite views and, of course,
an experienced pilot. The flight season runs approximately
December-March, although the operation is weather-dependent.
Discover Flight of the Gibbon Tel: +855 (0)69 558 888
TIP Positioned a short distance from the angkorballooning.com
legendary Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom
If you’re only in Siem temples, Flight of the Gibbon offers the
Reap a short while, chance to swing through the trees on ten
a great way to make
the most of your time
jungle ziplines. The thrill of whooshing
at the temples is to buy through the canopy is almost matched,
a ticket to the Angkor however, by the opportunity to get up close
park after 5pm. Not and personal with the Angkor Archaeologi-
only will this grant you cal Park’s natural wonders – visitors also
instant access to the get to go on an introductory hike to learn
famed archaeological about local flora and fauna and, possibly,
site for sunset, it will
see some actual gibbons. Find Us
also allow you to visit
for the whole of the Tel: +855 (0)96 999 9101
Phnom Penh: 023 997 541
following day. treetopasia.com/ booking.pp@bluepumpkin.asia
cambodia-holiday/angkor 1c, Street 282, Bkk1,Phnom Penh
Siem Reap: 017 692 051 Tel: +855 (0) 23 214 660
booking.sr@bluepumpkin.asia
King’s Road Angkor, Siem Reap
www.bluepumpkin.asia Tel: +855 (0) 63 963 882

Discover the south: Sleep | Eat | Drink | Explore g
Sleep
Song Saa Private Island
Song Saa is your dream of a tropical island paradise
brought to life. Centred around twin islands – Song
Saa means ‘sweetheart’ in Khmer – in the Koh
Rong archipelago, this spectacular getaway is a
one-of-a-kind resort, where sun-seekers can pad
on white sand or lounge in huge villas complete
with private decks and pools, built over turquoise
waters that are a mere leap away. Wherever you are
on the private island, staff are on hand to cater to
your every whim, even bringing projectors to rooms
for an in-villa movie experience, while sea kayaking
and snorkelling allow visitors to explore the pristine
beauty of this untouched piece of heaven.
Tel: +855 (0)23 886 750
songsaa.com
The Columns Villa Des Palmes

Colonial buildings have been lovingly refur- Exclusivity is key at this beautiful private
bished to create the Columns in Kampot. Its villa complex in Kep. Two properties –
setting in the heart of town, combined with the two-storey Grande Mansion and the
the 17 clean and comfortable rooms, pro- more compact, one-bed Sala Thmei – are
vides guests with a fantastic hub from which nestled in leafy hillside gardens, enabling
to explore the architecture, cafés and natural large groups of family and friends to spend
wonders of this soothing southern province. long, lazy days undisturbed in a pristine
Wander through tree-lined streets or sit by paradise while enjoying the sweeping sea
the gently flowing river, found a stone’s throw views below. With the bonus of two swim-
from the hotel, to get a taste of pastoral life ming pools and modern design flourishes,
in this burgeoning creative community. this is unadulterated luxury at its best.
Tel: +855 (0)92 128 300 Tel: +855 (0)12 214 798
the-columns.com villadespalmes.org
Discover
The south
Knai Bang Chatt
Heritage buildings painted in TIP
burgundy, ochre and sky blue are
interspersed with bamboo groves and The three main
beaches in
delicately pebbled pathways at the
Sihanoukville
coastal retreat that is Knai Bang Chatt are Serendipity,
in Kep. Design is at the forefront of Otres 1 and Otres
Photos: Jack Malipan for Discover (1); Song Saa

this sophisticated resort, where clean 2. The former is
Cambodia’s coast can be whatever you want it architectural lines contrast with ver- definitely the go-
dant gardens and organic materials to to coastal spot
to be. Kep’s hillside resorts take relaxation to
create a wonderfully graceful aesthetic. for partying, Tamu and natural fibres – past the swimming pool
new levels, but Sihanoukville is the best choice Yoga and spa services, coupled with while Otres 2 is
With its sleek, unobtrusive elegance, Tamu and onto the wide sweep of pristine golden
for those with drinking and dancing in mind. the swaying palm trees and uninter-
home to a more
would not look out of place in the design sand beyond. Settle down on a lounger to
upmarket vibe
The finest beaches can be found on islands rupted bay views, make it an ideal and plenty of meccas of Bali or Miami, yet this stylish watch a spectacular sunset before enjoying
offshore, while Kampot is arguably Cambodia’s sanctuary in which to take a step back smart resorts. complex lies just steps away from the seren- a romantic, candle-lit supper beneath the
most charming small town from the stresses of life. Otres 1 is ity of Sihanoukville’s Otres 2 beach. Guests stars at Tamu’s shore-side restaurant.
Tel: +855 (0)36 210 310 somewhere in can wander barefoot from the immaculate Tel: +855 (0)15 258 340
knaibangchatt.com between. hotel – all white walls, brushed concrete tamucambodia.com
Discover the south: Sleep | Eat | Drink | Explore g
EAT drink
Tertúlia The Fishmarket
The full flavours of Portuguese cuisine Recently restored to its former glory, the Fishmarket
are being celebrated in Kampot thanks to has been named after the original use of the striking
Tertúlia, a restaurant aptly named after 1930s art deco building that provides its home. Vintage
a term that describes an informal gather- touches are evident throughout, with the interior
ing of friends, family or regulars. A wide possessing soaring ceilings and handmade floor tiles,
variety of seafood dishes, from a tradi- but for the best view head outside. Located directly on
tional cataplana stew to octopus served on Kampot’s riverfront, the establishment offers an ideal
a warm bell pepper salad, feature at this spot to appreciate the comings and goings of the languid
relaxed eatery. But save room for the chef’s waterway – the lifeblood of this charming town.
favourites of Portuguese black pudding Tel: +855 (0)12 728 884
with apple purée or slow-cooked beef
cheeks in a red wine and mushroom sauce.
Tel: +855 (0)89 850 358 The Sailing Club
tertulia-kampot.com A firm favourite on the Kep coastline, the Sailing Club is
synonymous with blazing sunsets and creative cocktails.
Stroll along the long pier that stretches over the waves to
Baraca make the most of the striking outlook, before salivating over
Kampot’s dining scene is constantly seafood or partaking in the activities on offer, such as kayak-
evolving, and another jewel in the crown ing. Having recently been the recipient of major renovation
is tapas joint Baraca, which doubles as works, the new-look complex is bigger and better than
a tiny guesthouse. Crowd favourites such before, but its sense of family-friendly fun remains.
as patatas bravas and Mediterranean Tel: +855 (0)12 349 742
olives appear on the clever yet compact knaibangchatt.com/the-sailing-club
Sandan Holy Crab Discover menu, but those in the kitchen also
Creative Cambodian cuisine takes A steaming plate of seafood is always dish TIP have a healthy measure of creativity up
centre stage at Sihanoukville’s Sandan of the day at the gloriously ramshackle crab their sleeves, with regular specials and
restaurant. A long-standing favourite restaurants that line Kep’s coast and are In Kampot?
Try the BBQ
dishes such as albondigas meatballs and EXPLORE
in the coastal hub, located near the collectively known as ‘the crab market’. The flammenkuchen – sour cream, roasted
ribs at Rusty
unmistakable Golden Lions roundabout, pick of the bunch is Holy Crab, where diners pumpkin, onions and basil on a home- Pepper Plantation Discover
the eatery is run by M’Lop Tapang, an can settle down in a cosy wooden dining
Keyhole. It’s a
simple place, made flatbread – on offer. Aromatic pepper hailing from Kampot prov- TIP
organisation that has been working with room that overlooks the calm waters of but the ribs are Tel: +855 (0)11 290 434 ince is a favourite of foodies worldwide. To
vulnerable children and youth for more the bay, as waves lap at the shore beneath legendary. baraca.org learn more about Cambodia’s ‘black gold’, Expect
vendors on
than a decade. With the bounty of the gulf the restaurant. Crack crustaceans freshly head to Sothy’s Farm, nestled amongst
most beaches.
close at hand, try the extensive seafood plucked from the sea to get your fill of the jungle-clad hills about 20 minutes from Kep. A polite
offerings washed down with Sandan’s area’s famous crabmeat or relish huge The farm’s guided tours reveal the fascinat- shake of the
signature tom yum caprioska cocktail. prawns doused in kroeung curry paste, all ing history of the spice and the laborious head and the
Tel: +855 (0)34 452 4000 washed down by a refreshing beer. processes involved in cultivating it today. words “Ot-tay
tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/sandan Tel: +855 (0)97 6323 456 Learn how red peppercorns are transformed awkun” (no
into white and how lemongrass is used as thank you)
Photos: Jack Malipan for Discover (3); Vittorio Velasquez for Discover (2)
are usually
protection against insects before buying
enough if
some of the plantation’s pepper for a true you’re not
farm-to-table experience. interested in
mykampotpepper.asia buying.
Climbodia
Café Espresso While Cambodia might not be home to the region’s greatest
Kampot’s Café Espresso has been the go-to spot for those looking peaks, there’s plenty to climb. Thrill-seekers will delight in
for a quality brew in the peaceful riverside town since it opened Climbodia, the country’s first outdoor rock-climbing site, based Island getaways the Koh Sdach archipelago, a collection of
in 2011. Now safely ensconced in a stylish new home – a ware- approximately 5km east of Kampot. A number of via ferratas Travellers to Cambodia’s south quite 12 islands, many of which are completely
house space split with the ethical clothing company Dorsu – the and climbing routes crisscross the area’s cliff faces, facilitating simply must visit the islands dotted uninhabited and unspoiled by human
café boasts an in-house roastery and makes its own bread. With a variety of programmes for novices and experienced mountain- around the coastline. From Sihanoukville, activity. Sunset seekers with an apprecia-
a focus on simple food done right, try the bacon and eggs, which eers alike. Staffed by friendly, professional guides, Climbodia the beautiful Koh Rong Samloem is just a tion for coconut palms, fresh seafood and
we’ve been assured aims to go “above and beyond” anything also offers abseiling and caving opportunities. short boat journey away and comes com- serenity should definitely consider mak-
previously available in the country. Tel: +855 (0)95 581 951 plete with idyllic white sands and diverse ing the short trip from Kep to Koh Tonsay,
Tel: +855 (0)92 388 736 climbodia.com wildlife. Nature enthusiasts will also love also known as Rabbit Island.
88 Discover
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Essence of Cambodia TheThe Essence
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89
Discover elsewhere: Sleep | Eat | Drink | Explore
DRINK eat
Libations Bar Love Café & Pizza
Beneath the quirky Bric-à-Brac hotel lies a streetside bar perfect- If there’s one thing you
ly positioned for watching life roll by in the heart of Battambang’s don’t expect to find in off-
colonial district. With champagne, charcuterie and fine cheeses the-track Kampong Thom,
available, Libations brings a slice of France to northwest it’s tasty pizza, chicken
Cambodia. Given the chance, visitors should treat themselves to wings and burgers. But
a glass of kir or a freshly baked, rillette-filled baguette. Love Café & Pizza, a quiet
Tel: +855 (0)77 531 562 spot situated by the Stung
bric-a-brac.asia Sen river, is doing just
that. Run by a pleasant
and attentive American
Sorya Café Jaan Bai proprietor, the restaurant
Positioned on Kratie’s riverfront and owned by the Sorya Its white walls studded with the vibrant work of local artists, is replete with comfortable
Kayaking Adventures tour operators is Sorya Café. The relaxed Battambang’s Jaan Bai is illuminated by the sunlight pouring wicker chairs, weathered
and scenic establishment is known as one of the few bars in the in through enormous windows. A rich blend of Cambodian books and board games.
Elsewhere
province to have a wide selection of quality wines – certainly dishes and Asian fusion, Jaan Bai’s menu is brought to life Highlights include classic
something of a rarity outside of Cambodia’s larger cities. The by cooks trained by legendary chef David Thompson, with treats such as the cheese-
Australian-trained chefs also serve up good thin-base pizza the restaurant’s proceeds helping the Cambodian’s Chil- burger, potato wedges and
Satisfy your wanderlust by exploring Cambodia’s and pasta dishes. dren Trust, a local NGO raising at-risk youth from poverty. homemade cookies and
lesser-known corners. From Battambang to Ratanakiri, Tel: +855 (0)90 241 148 Tel: +855 (0)78 263 144 cream ice cream.
straying from the norm has rarely been so rewarding soryakayaking.com cambodianchildrenstrust.org Tel: +855 (0)17 916 219
explore
Sleep
Kayaking the Tatai
Battambang Resort vKirirom Pine Resort Mayura Hill Resort and a range of private yoga classes, There are several kayaking compa- Discover
TIP
Rather than waiting around for buses when travelling long distances in
An oasis of serenity nestled amid Founded on the promise of Boasting the only hotel swimming the resort remains the finest option nies operating along Koh Kong’s Cambodia, we’d recommend hiring a private car – a far quicker and more
the dirt roads and rice paddies mountaintop seclusion coupled pool in Mondulkiri province, and in the province for travellers escap- Tatai river, offering customers the convenient way to travel. Prices are cheap considering the journey times
on the outskirts of Cambodia’s with modern convenience, vKirirom located on the Vietnam border just ing the heat of the capital for chance to unleash their sense of ad- involved, and cars are easy to arrange at hotels or local travel agents.
‘second city’, Battambang Resort Pine Resort takes its commitment five hours northeast of Phnom Penh, a few days of exploring in the cooler venture while surrounded by some of
offers a pared-back taste of luxury to environmental harmony and Mayura Hill Resort is renowned for its climes of the wild east. the country’s most beautiful settings.
in the countryside. Ideal for families sustainability seriously. From the unrivalled views of the surrounding Tel: +855 (0)77 980 980 Against the backdrop of the imposing
and couples, the lake-view rooms organically grown vegetables served hills. With an air-conditioned gym mayurahillresort.com Cardamom mountains and Southeast
come with a private terrace looking in the restaurant to their refusal to Asia’s largest coastal mangroves, a
over the stillness of the resort’s clear away any tree not already dead meandering voyage down the river
elegantly cultivated lake. Guests or decaying, the secluded getaway to a soundscape of splashing fish,
can enjoy a reasonably priced mix – situated more than 600m above exotic birds and howling gibbons
Photos: Lucas Veuve for Discover (2); Thomas Cristofoletti for Discover (1)
of Asian and Western dishes in the sea level on the ancient Kirirom feels like a lucid dream.
privacy of their terrace or surround- Mountain – is ideal for busy profes-
ed by lush green gardens in the sionals struggling to reconnect with
resort’s own poolside restaurant. life’s fundamentals. Bou Sraa waterfall
Tel: +855 (0)12 510 100 Tel: +855 (0)78 777 343 Considered the most beautiful
battambangresort.com vkirirom.com waterfall in Mondulkiri, Bou Sraa
is certainly a sight to behold. The
double drop waterfall is slightly
Terres Rouges The bungalows scattered throughout off the beaten track but is popular
A luxury lakeside lodge lost in the the sprawling gardens are furnished with locals who use it as a picnic
wilderness of Ratanakiri province with warm wooden floors and tasteful and bathing site. The first drop is
in Cambodia’s northeast, Terres Cambodian antiques. Opening onto approximately 10m and is followed
Rouges is a veritable Shangri-La for the expansive pool, the beautifully dec- by a second, thunderous drop of
road-worn travellers returning from orated bar commands an unmissable 25m. For the truly adventurous, the
their daily bush-walk. The former view of the Boeung Kansaign lake and Mayura Hill Resort in town operates
residence of the provincial governor, its surrounds. a series of ziplines at the Bou Sraa
the central villa is a superb example Tel: +855 (0)12 770 650 site, with the final one whizzing
of traditional Khmer architecture. ratanakiri-lodge.com across the gushing falls.
An
island
of our
own
Photography: Jack Malipan
Location: Song Saa private island

styling, hair and makeup:
RYAN Drewe TAYLOR
at the dollhouse
model: kol soksolita
previous page: bikini, bobo
this page: dress, bobo;
necklace, a.n.d
opposite page: kaftan, bobo
Getaways
This page: playsuit, ambre;
silk scarf (worn on head),
A.N.D; necklace and bangles,
paperdolls
opposite page: crochet top,
skelley; bikini, bobo; hat,
paperdolls
River life: boating on the Tatai River
this page: bikini, bobo;
necklaces, waterlily;
kimono top, A.N.D
Opposite page: kaftan,
River life: boating on the Tatai River paperdolls; sandals, bobo;
brooch (worn on head),
stylist's own
shopping
Just
Tin stars,
Trunkh
$8 ea
Tote bag,
Tonlé
$17
browsing? From local artisans to expatriate

Candle holder,
Saarti
$20
creatives, Siem Reap’s boutiques Tin
are stocked with handiworks to bracelet,
Trunkh
suit every budget and taste $8
Retro
postcards,
Antique Khmer Ceramics
necklace, Khmer and Fine Arts
Boutique Centre
$280 $1 ea
Knitted scarf, Bayon

Tonlé tea set, Khmer
$24 Year
Ceramics and Fine
Notebook, Arts Centre
of animal
Mekong Creations painting, Trunkh $55
$6 $45
Niko’s
mixed media
wooden Buddha,
Niko’s Studio
$95
Lady
many hands
tea towel, Trunkh
$20
WELLNESS
Dream a dream Body

and mind
Regarded as the premier wellness resort in
the country, Navutu Dreams offers therapies
as diverse as chakra balancing, reiki and Enter the cocoon
traditional Chinese acupuncture from its
Calming music envelops guests into the
striking property in rural Siem Reap. With
comforting ‘cocoon’ that is Bodia Spa. Known
retreats, yoga breaks and detox programmes
hosted on site, as well as the hotel’s excellent
for its use of natural ingredients – coconut From silent meditation retreats to the simpler pleasures of a relaxing
milk, lemongrass water, ginger and turmeric
in-house spa and studio, you’ll have no
all appear on the treatment menu – Bodia
massage, visitors to Cambodia are well catered for when it comes to
excuse but to pamper mind, body and soul.
celebrates the restorative power of Mother pampering and wellness
navutudreams.com
Nature. And with branches in both Siem
Reap and Phnom Penh, decorated in rich red
tones and swirling weaves, patrons across
the country can emerge from the proverbial
chrysalis transformed. Fragrant relief
bodia-spa.com
The much-loved Frangipani Spa in Siem Reap
embraces the elements, with earth, water, wind
and fire represented in its sumptuous sanctuary
in Kandal Village, a shopping area close to the
old French Quarter. Putting a clear emphasis
on the quality of its treatments, therapists can
apply facials and scrubs that are as fragrant
as the spa’s name, but for true relaxation we
recommend the 90-minute hot and cold stone
massage to soothe and detoxify the body.
frangipanisiemreap.com
Stretch yourself
Mind over matter
Set in a charming house on a quiet and leafy
suburban street, Yoga Phnom Penh offers Vipassana is an ancient Indian meditation
a range of classes led by experienced tutors technique that can be loosely described as
hailing from across the globe. Centre yourself self-transformation through self-observation. For
at the regular vinyasa flow sessions or, for those looking to delve deeper, Dhamma Latthika
something different, sign up for fly fit or offers ten-day residential courses at its base
fly yoga, where students use long swings in the northwestern province of Battambang.
suspended from the ceiling in their practise. Be aware, however, that sessions are intense.
yogaphnompenh.com Vipassana students observe silence in body,
mind and speech, and can meditate for up to
ten hours each day.
latthika.dhamma.org
leisure
Driving lessons
with golf becoming increasingly popular in cambodia, Booyoung Country Club, Siem Reap Phokeethra Country Club, Siem Reap
it's easier than ever to squeeze in a quick round or two Just six kilometres from the city centre, Booyoung Country Club in Siem Having hosted the Johnnie Walker Asian PGA Tour Cambodian Open
Reap is the largest golf complex in Temple Town. The $150m course, for four years from 2007 through to 2010, the Sofitel-managed
using our guide to the kingdom's top courses
which was designed by Japanese golf course designer Kentaro Sato, Phokeethra Country Club in Siem Reap has cemented itself as one of
took one year to build and features generous palm-lined fairways and the country’s leading golf courses. Named after an ancient Buddhist
an impressive array of water hazards. Wide landing areas may make serpent spirit myth, and
Angkor Golf Resort , Garden City Golf Club, players feel as if they’re in for an easy ride, but creeks and fairway sand borrowing design elements
Siem Reap Phnom Penh traps crop up out of nowhere. Booyoung caters to all abilities by offer- from the wondrous Angkor
Designed by British golf legend Nick Faldo, Part of a wider satellite city project on the outskirts ing five tee positions at each hole. temples, the course was the
Angkor Golf’s 7,279-yard course in Siem Reap of Phnom Penh, Garden City (pictured) is managed first in the country designed to
features plenty of bunkers and water hazards. by the global golf services firm IMG and stretches Grand Phnom Penh Golf Club championship-standard and
The course, which hosted its first club cham- across 97 hectares. Designed to mimic the tradi- Visitors to Grand Phnom Penh Golf Club in the city’s Sen Sok district is known for its difficult final
pionship in September 2016, was named Best tional links style, the course offers large, challeng- will find themselves immersed in an all-inclusive township replete hole, which requires players
Course in Cambodia in 2015 by Asian Golf ing greens and a par of 72. Golfers can brush up with a local school and shopping mall. The course was designed by to negotiate a double water
Monthly and is located just five minutes from their skills on the driving range before making their the respected Nicklaus Design firm, which was founded by legendary carry. Players can choose
Siem Reap International Airport and ten minutes from Angkor Wat. In an attempt to mini- way to the fairway, with lessons also available. Australian golfer Jack Nicklaus, and is one of the best maintained in between English, Thai or
mise its negative environmental impact, Angkor Golf recycles wastewater, uses compost The clubhouse contains four luxurious restaurants Phnom Penh. Those feeling a little rusty can practise their strokes at a Japanese-speaking caddies,
kitchen waste as fertiliser and refrains from excessive use of pesticides. According serving a variety of Asian and Western cuisines and two-storey driving range ahead of their round. A 45-minute drive from and refreshment carts travel
to Faldo, the course “challenges all standards of golfers, from the casual weekender boasts five-star accommodation and impressive the city centre, the course’s clubhouse boasts spa and sauna facilities, around the entire course
through to the seasoned professional”. function facilities. offering a pleasant reprieve from city life. throughout the day.
Getaways
GETAWAYS
Getting a new perspective on Cambodia’s famed temples

Words by Ellie Dyer Photography by Sam Jam
Photos:

GETAWAYS
S
On the road: tourists enter
unrise at Angkor Wat: a burn- the majestic Baphuon
ing orb slowly rises from behind temple (left page); a tuk
the great temple’s tiered towers, tuk emerges from the south
gate of the walled city of
lighting up the early morning sky
Angkor Thom
with flashes of rich blues, pale pinks and
honey-hued yellows as it ascends into
the heavens.
Bathed in light, the building transforms;
the detail of its mottled stones and sump-
tuous carvings gradually revealed and then
perfectly reflected in the shimmering pools
that front the 12th-century complex.
Majestic and mesmerising, the sight is
an ethereal vision of both beauty and
power, and one that offers many modern-
day travellers their first glimpse into the
ancient world of the Khmer Empire – a
powerful civilisation that once dominated
large swathes of Southeast Asia.
While there may be no perfect way to
tour the 400-square-kilometre Angkor
Archaeological Park – every guide has
their own favourite temple or hidden spot
– there will always be something magical
about being on your own amongst great
stone edifices that have borne witness to
the twists and turns of history.
For those aiming to escape the melee
of umbrella-carrying tour guides and
the accompanying cacophony of camera
clicks, the first step is to purchase your
ticket after 5pm, which gives you access
to the park for both sunset of that day
and the subsequent duration of your one-,
three- or seven-day pass.
As the sun sinks and the songs of cica-
das echo across the treetops, many visi-
tors climb the steep track to the hilltop
temple of Phnom Bakheng, which offers exploring the multi-level site, keep an eye
sweeping views of the countryside below. out for one of Bayon’s most fascinating
There will always be
But, for a more secluded experience, take features: carvings of day-to-day life in something magical
this opportunity to visit Bayon, a spec- the 12th century, showing Angkorian about being on your own
tacular 12th- to 13th-century temple citizens boiling plump pigs, lighting fires amongst great stone
where 216 colossal faces, each hewn in and playing instruments. edifices that have borne
stone and said to resemble King Jaya- It’s a society that has been brought
witness to the twists and
varman VII who built the temple, stare to life in fascinating detail by Zhou
enigmatically into the distance with lips Daguan, a Chinese envoy who spent turns of history
gently curled. nearly a year at Angkor from 1296-1297
At dusk, the complex is often desert- and later penned a travelogue of
ed, allowing visitors the chance to stroll his experiences.
alone amongst hundreds of serene visages Slaves, officials, monks, concubines and
basking in the warm evening light. When market traders are all described by g
GETAWAYS
The little things: one

Daguan, who, alongside observations of exploring today’s park, which is still dot-
of the most enjoyable
ordinary life – from childbirth practices elements of any ted with functioning temples and commu-
to ‘lascivious’ women, firework displays visit to Angkor is the nities, all connected by a network of roads
and the daily washing habits of locals – chance to spot daily that can be easily navigated by tuk tuk.
life going ahead in
portrays the opulence of his surrounds The early mornings are perhaps best
the midst of such
in magnificent detail. majesty (left); a man spent at Angkor Wat, where it is worth
Bayon itself is said to have featured a rides his bicycle braving the throngs to witness a fiery
“gold tower” and a golden bridge flanked through the south sunrise and explore the great monument
by golden lions, while the nearby temple gate at Angkor Thom dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu.
(below left); a tourist
of Baphuon – recently reconstructed by snaps photos at the
Try entering the main building through
modern experts – was an “exquisite” famous Ta Prohm the back or side entrances to buck the
tower of bronze. King Indravarman III, temple (below right) crowds and inspect the long galleries of
meanwhile, is described as wearing a bas-reliefs, showing scenes such as the
four-pound pearl around his neck, with Battle of Kurukshetra from the Indian epic
gold bracelets and rings inlaid with cat’s of the Mahabharata, in relative peace.
eye gemstones on his wrists, ankles, fin- Walk through to the central courtyard,
gers and toes, and bearing a “gold sword past the many celestial apsara dancers
in his hand”. carved in stone, and ascend the steep
Although the accounts of this tempo- steps to the principal sanctuary of the
rary visitor should be taken with a grain Bakan. Visitor numbers are restricted at
of salt, the vivid log offers important this most sacred space, but those brav-
insights into life in this complex society. ing the vertiginous stairs are greeted by a
And it’s a subject being explored fur- sense of gravitas, serenity and wonderful
ther by the many archaeologists work- views of the grandiose complex stretching
ing in Cambodia, who have hit global out below.
headlines in recent years thanks to new And while Angkor Wat appears in
insights gained from the use of LiDAR, breathtaking condition today, other tem-
a technology that utilises lasers to ples have been taken over by the environ-
survey topography. ment in a spectacular connection between
Dr Alison Kyra Carter, a visiting the worlds of man and nature.
assistant professor at the University of At the atmospheric ‘Tomb Raider’
Illinois Urbana-Champaign who has temple of Ta Prohm, roots spear through
been investigating Angkorian residential ancient stones to create an Ozymandias-
spaces as part of the Greater Angkor like effect. Surrounded by lush forest
Project (Gap), explains that experts and dappled light, it is an enduringly
Discover
had long known that the landscape sur- popular spot, and perhaps best visited
rounding the temples was inhabited by TIP in the early mornings before the larger
thousands of people. Dense forest cover, One of our tour groups arrive. While winding your
however, “made it difficult to see these favourite spots in way through the site, seek out one of
patterns clearly”. the Angkor the temple’s oddities – a carving that
complex is the
“What LiDAR has done has made these west gate at appears to show a Stegosaurus. The
patterns visible and clear,” the archaeolo- Angkor Thom. Just ‘dinosaur’ has, over the years, sparked
gist says, explaining that it has helped the as impressive as a hubbub of creationist fervour, but many
its buddies in the
Gap to pinpoint and focus excavations. north, south and believe it’s less Jurassic Park and more
“Now we can see the planned and organ- east, but with a likely a chameleon or a rhino bedecked
ised landscape that the Angkorians con- fraction of the foot in leaves.
traffic, expect to
structed, which included house mounds, be pretty much the A less-frequented alternative comes in
neighbourhoods, streets and maybe even only tourist at the the form of Preah Khan – the temple of
large public garden spaces.” site and to the sacred sword, constructed in the time
exchange plenty of
A picture of this working city – smiles with local of the devout Buddhist ‘builder king’ Jaya-
described as a “low-density urban cen- Cambodians going varman VII. Guarded by 72 mighty stone
tre” – is essential to bear in mind when about their day. garudas – each half-bird, half-man – g
GETAWAYS
Set in stone: carvings and

visitors must walk over a naga causeway, the trip, incorporate a visit to Kbal Spean,
bas-reliefs at a number of
Top 3 temple complexes

marking the bridge between heaven and where a short trek leads explorers to a temples can depict scenes from
earth, to reach a central temple alive with jungle riverbed carved with hundreds of Angkorian times approximately
symbolism. Long, covered stone corridors lingas, or phallic representations of Shiva. 1,000 years ago (below left);
lead visitors through the site, where a Banteay Srei itself, described as “one of two of the hundreds of faces at
Bayon temple
corps of 1,000 dancers was once thought the jewels of Khmer art”, is an ancient
to have performed. pilgrimage site built from beautiful pink 1
Indeed, Carter describes a more dense, sandstone that features startlingly clear Koh Ker is a remote archaeological site in northern
specialised population – perhaps “ritual carvings. To see it best, ascend the view- Cambodia, about 200km from Siem Reap. From
CE 928-944, the site served as the capital of the
specialists, religious scholars, temple ing platform that lies just outside the Angkorian Empire. King Jayavarman IV built a temple
dancers… and craftsmen” – being cen- main exterior wall and take in a sweep- complex there to worship Treypuvanesvara, the god of
tred inside Angkor Thom and temples ing panorama of the compact temple in happiness. In an area exceeding 36 square kilometres,
there are more than 40 major structures to see.
such as Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm, and all its rose-tinted glory. Accordingly, an overnight stay is recommended.
supported by rice Wandering past the
2
farmers working in a half-day is well spent emerald rice fields
Unesco world heritage site Banteay Chhmar is a
the wider landscape. visiting banteay srei – and towering trees temple complex in the northwest of the country, close
Centuries on, the a small but perfectly surrounding Banteay to the Thai border. The bas-relief artworks that mark
grain is a still a staple Srei, it can be tempt- more than a kilometre of the outer gallery walls are a
of Cambodia and, for
formed temple known ing to draw com- particularly impressive feature here. Having remained
those with more time as the citadel of parisons between
almost completely untouched for 800 years, this complex
is a pertinent link between the Khmer people and their
to explore, a half-day women that dates back Cambodia then and Angkorian roots. Visitors have the chance to stay the night
is well spent visiting to the 10th century Cambodia now. in the nearby village, which offers homestays to assist
with community development.
Banteay Srei – a small “Maybe one thing
3
but perfectly formed temple known as the everyone could agree on is what a sig-
citadel of women that dates back to the nificant accomplishment Angkor Wat The history of Preah Khan is shrouded in mystery, but
there is a consensus that it has long been a location of
late 10th century. is, and how awe-inspiring it is,” Carter religious importance. The temple complex, far-flung and
The tuk tuk ride to the site gives visitors says. “We can imagine that ancient Ang- enveloped by nature, has structures dating back to the
an insight into modern rural life, with korians felt proud of this temple, and 9th century. Despite being damaged by looters in the late
the road snaking past glistening pad- certainly people never stopped visiting 1990s, the temple remains a site of serenity. The relatively
small size of the complex makes it ideal for a half-day
dies, communities of weavers and plump this place, even after the capital moved visit. It is worth making the trip for the exquisitely carved
buffaloes lazing in waterholes. To extend out of Angkor.” elephants at the eastern end of the reservoir.
GETAWAYS
In
the morning hours, before the city
yawns awake, golden rays cast
Phnom Penh in a different light.
It is softer, gentler and, somehow, from
another era.
Nowhere is this more apparent than
at the train station, built in 1932 at the
height of the French administration of
Cambodia. Beams of light stream into
the whitewashed art deco building, which
was restored in 2010, as a handful of pas-
sengers toting shoulder bags or wheeling
suitcases rush toward the platform.
There is no confusion over which plat-
form to choose – just a single train, with a
pair of bright carriages emblazoned with
the logo of Royal Railways, awaits.
For me, there is nothing to do but sit
In
on a wooden bench and contemplate an
opportunity lost. Having underestimated
the popularity of the new rail service from
Phnom Penh to the port of Sihanoukville
via the riverside town of Kampot – it
with
recommenced in 2016 after a 14-year hia-
tus – I failed to buy tickets in advance and
“Kampot has always

been a port that’s
the
historically beyond the
pale, all the way up until
new
the 1920s”
the train, according to the cashier, is full.

At the last moment, after the horn
sounds at 7am to signal the train’s immi-
nent departure, a benevolent railway
employee approaches. I explain, in
faltering Khmer, my predicament. A brief
kampot has long bubbled radio conversation ensues, and he ges-
away with the potential to be tures toward the furthest carriage, where
cambodia’s next big destination, I’m squeezed into a seat that I suspect is
usually reserved for baggage.
and an influx of creative new But the limited space matters little –
businesses could be just the it is simply a pleasure to be inside the
jumpstart it needs
Photo: Thomas Cristofoletti

refurbished train, with its retro doors
and windows, the vintage design updated
Oh, so hip: Kampothead, a vintage store housed By Holly Robertson with cushioned vinyl-covered seating and
in Kampot’s old Royal Theatre, is emblematic of air conditioning. A cheer goes up among
the town’s increasingly creative atmosphere the passengers as the train lurches away
from the station, their happy murmurs g
GETAWAYS
providing a backing track to the noise of restaurants and cafés that have sprung storage warehouse. Angus Whelan and
the machinery clacking along the tracks up in the past couple of years – from Kiara Notaras, who have made Kampot
as we chug slowly out of the city. a high-grade Portuguese seafood restau- their home, have also made Espresso one
After passing by squat commercial rant, Tertúlia, to a street stall crafting of the most popular destinations in town,
buildings, motorbike-clogged intersec- handmade Italian pasta, Ciao Ciao, while largely thanks to its caffeinated excellence
tions and rail-side slums, the urban gives a trio of Russian hipsters have even set and appealing menu of creative café fare.
way to the rural. From the wide train up a vegetarian café, Simple Things. The new space has a minimalist indus-
windows, a landscape less visible when “It’s gone from the Brit booze pubs that trial feel with its hanging metal light-
travelling by road is in full panorama, with do bangers and mash to lots of interesting shades, exposed brickwork and soaring
no concrete factories or stilted wooden foodie kinds of things,” says Poulson. ceilings intersected by wooden beams.
homes to block the expansive view. “It’s a place known internationally for The café, and its in-house Rumblefish
Vivid green rice paddies flash by with its pepper growing, coffee roastery,
Cambodia’s ubiquitous sugar palms dot- it’s a salt-producing Among the big-name take up one half of
ting the horizon. Eventually, small tree- place – it’s the food visitors in recent years the building, while
covered mountains emerge, breaking up bowl of Cambodia. ethical fashion
the countryside with their towering beauty. And what we’re see- have been Gordon brand Dorsu oper-
A stop at Takeo railway station, where ing more and more Ramsay and Anthony ates from next door.
vendors hawk frogs’ legs and whole bar- is tourism coming “Hopefully this
becued fish, marks the halfway point in because of that.”
Bourdain, while growing well help to create
between Phnom Penh and Kampot and Big-name visitors in numbers of creatives a sort of ‘made in
provides a rejuvenating chance for pas- recent years have are setting up shop here K a m p o t ’ h u b , ”
sengers to stretch their legs. included chefs Dorsu co-founder
Before long – 3.5 hours, to be precise, Gordon Ramsay and Anthony Bourdain, Hanna Guy tells me over coffee and a
which is only 30 minutes longer than the while growing numbers of creatives and sticky chocolate brownie at Espresso.
standard minivan trip – we pull into the foodies are choosing to set up shop here. Established in 2014, Dorsu creates clas-
station at Kampot. Among them is the husband-and-wife sically cut clothing from garment factory
Throughout its history, the harbourside team behind Café Espresso, a landmark remnant materials, while providing staff
town has attracted sailors and merchants eatery in the town, which in 2016 shifted with fair salaries and working conditions.
coming from as far afield as Malaysia, from its longstanding home in a centrally Asked to pinpoint the magic ingredient
Korea and China to trade. Many stayed located Khmer shophouse to a former salt that makes Kampot feel so special, she
around, giving way to a multi-ethnic replies: “There’s a priority of positivity
community. “It’s always been a port around community, and that feeds off
that’s historically beyond the pale – it’s into tourism.”
been way beyond the reach of the cen- In the late afternoon, I wander down
tral administration in Phnom Penh – all to the Fishmarket, a waterfront restau-
the way up until the 1920s,” says Julien rant ideally placed for an evening cock-
Poulson, who is heavily involved in the tail. Named in keeping with its original
cultural life of the town as a founder use, the eatery is housed in an art deco
of the Kampot Arts and Music Associa- building that has a striking, pastel yel-
tion (Kama) and director of the fledgling low façade and an airy feel inside the
Kampot Writers and Readers Festival. generous space.
With the crumbling French colonial It has a mixed, and at times dark, his-
architecture that lines the riverfront tory, having been used as a radio station,
and the town’s charmingly languid pace, as an interrogation centre during the
Kampot has long been a draw for harried Khmer Rouge period, as the local customs
Phnom Penh-based expats seeking quiet house and, most incongruously, as a night-
solitude but has yet to truly take off as spot called Alaska Super Club. New owner
Photos: Thomas Cristofoletti

a destination for international tourists. Hugh Munro describes the renovations as
But there is a distinct feeling of change “a bit of architectural archaeology”. “As
in the air. Poulson tells me that the town Travel tales: a typical rural Cambodian scene, shot in Kampot, featuring we knocked things down, we discovered
verdant rice fields and towering sugar palm trees (top); children play next
has “morphed”, and describes it as cur- to the train during a stop at Takeo station – a passenger service resumed
more clues as to what the building looked
rently being “in flux”. The most visible in 2016 for the first time in 14 years (left); Kampot pepper is the province’s like [originally]. We were chipping away
change has been the number of new most famous export and is renowned as some of the best in the world at history,” he remembers. g
GETAWAYS
In 2017, Southeast Asia Globe

takes on a new look.
New beginnings: the

Fishmarket bar and
restaurant has been
lovingly restored (far
left); Kek Soon, who has
opened a restaurant
inside the Kampot Arts
and Music Association
(top); coffee at Espresso
Café, which brings a
touch of high-grade
Australian café culture
to Kampot
Later, onboard a sunset cruise along eral hundred pepper farms, from small Khmer Rouge period it was a Vietnamese
the river, soft oranges and pinks fill the family-run operations to sweeping plan- bordello – where Kek Soon has set up
sky and wash over the vessel’s laidback tations spanning more than 20 hectares. a simple eatery. She describes the pro-
passengers, who lean against railings while At the height of the wet season, in duce from Kampot as being “the best in
sipping cold drinks and taking in the tran- October, it is an extremely bumpy tuk Cambodia”, with fruits from the region
quil vista. It is the quintessential Kampot tuk ride on unsealed roads out to La highly sought after at markets across the
experience and caps off a pleasurable day. Plantation. On arrival, I’m faced with country. Soon is constantly experiment-
The next morning, brunch is served row upon row of young pepper vines ing with cuisine, creating everything from
Photos: Thomas Cristofoletti (1); Jack Malipan (1); Lola Garcia-Ajofrin (1)
at Ellie’s Café, a quaint central bistro protected from the sun by palm leaves. restorative ginger and coconut teas to
with a Mediterranean-influenced menu. Guided by Chhy, an employee of the a “Cambodian fusion” pineapple and
A hummus, baba ganoush and tzatziki organic operation, a brief tour of the coconut cream latte in her kitchen.
platter with homemade flatbread and growing area provides insights into “You’ve got to set yourself apart,” says
vegetables is topped off nicely with a this spicy seasoning, which can come the engaging entrepreneur who, at the
fresh fruit smoothie. But there is little in green, white, red and black varieties. time of writing, was also in the process of
time to linger, as I have plans to track “Do you know why Kampot pepper is starting food tours and putting together
down a farm producing Kampot’s most the best in the world? It’s the ground a Khmer food cookbook inspired by the
famous export: pepper. [soil], the climate and because it’s near local area and its stories.
In 2010, the product was awarded the the sea,” Chhy tells the group. While Soon is finding ways to stand out
coveted Protected Geographical Indica-
tion status, which means that only certi-
Chhy may be somewhat biased, but
he may also have a point. On returning
from the crowd, Kampot is too. With its
growing creative community and fascinat-
Striking new imagery from around the region. Enhanced Cambodia-focused content.
fied growers from the region may market to Kampot, I pop into Kama, which is ing history, the town is increasingly finding Insight on current affairs, business, society, culture, tech, travel and more!
their goods as ‘Kampot pepper’. Across housed in another building with a curi- ways to entice visitors to this vibrant little
Kampot and Kep, there are now sev- ous history – at one point before the hamlet in Cambodia’s south.
sea-globe.com
GETAWAYS
Town Located halfway between Siem Reap and Phnom
and
Penh, Kampong Thom is a mellow provincial
town surrounded by hidden temples and serene
country life that offers a reprieve from the
well-worn tourist track
country
Words by Logan Connor Photography by Sam Jam
D
riving down a dirt road hugging fitting black trousers and weathered blue
the Stung Sen river, I pass a boy sandals. He lays out the day’s itinerary,
casting his fishing rod into the pointing to locations on his smartphone
midnight waters, past stilted map. “But first, we drink coffee,” he says.
houses made from wood and corru- In a café humming with the sounds of
gated metal. A chicken ambles into the early morning gossip, Vothea describes
road. Several boys playing football stop the former French governor’s residence,
and wave. After weeks spent in Phnom an abandoned, and supposedly haunted,
Penh, the calm of Kampong Thom is colonial-era mansion in town. Set on
almost unnerving. the Stung Sen’s south bank, the over-
Situated on National Highway 6 grown property contains three towering
roughly halfway between Phnom Penh mahogany trees populated with hundreds
and Siem Reap, Kampong Thom is usu- of squeaking bats. Their days are spent
ally no more than a quick food stop for hanging in the trees, but at dusk they fly
tourists on their way to or from the tem- out en masse to look for food.
ples of Angkor. Often, the most a tour-
ist sees of the province is the roadside
Arunras Restaurant. It is a pleasant but
The provincial capital, also called relatively unknown
Kampong Thom, is cut in half by the
Stung Sen river, which flows into the
town, devoid of the roving
Tonle Sap lake. It is a pleasant but tourist hordes of
relatively unknown town, devoid of the Siem Reap
schizophrenic noise of the capital and
the roving tourist hordes of Siem Reap.
But despite being a mere footnote to Now appropriately caffeinated, we set
most tourists’ Cambodian adventures, off for Sambor Prei Kuk, a vast complex
the town has the components to become of more than 100 Hindu temples that
a destination in its own right, offering even predates Cambodia’s tourism jewel
a bucolic refuge and a launching point of Angkor. Located about 30km north
for several provincial attractions. of town, the site was originally called
On a hazy Tuesday morning, I meet Chin Isanapura and was the capital of the
Vothea, my guide and director of Kampong ancient kingdom of Upper Chenla during
Thom’s Tourist Transportation Associa- the early 7th century. Later, it was the
tion. He is perpetually smiling, wearing a site of the Khmer capital, before Angkor
chequered blue, red and yellow shirt, loose- became the seat of the empire. g
Riverside: a wooden boat rests by the
Stung Sen river. A sunset boat trip along
the waterway is a great way to see the more
intimate reaches of Kampong Thom province
GETAWAYS
Bomb craters are still visible throughout

Sambor Prei Kuk, a relic of the coun-
try’s violent modern history. US forces,
backing the ill-fated Lon Nol regime in
the early 1970s, peppered the area with
cluster bombs in an attempt to reopen
the Phnom Penh-Siem Reap route that
had been cut off by the Khmer Rouge.
En route to the complex, Vothea turns
his Honda Dream motorbike down an
unassuming path into the forest. “Tourists
don’t know this way,” he yells. Soft sand
makes for a tough drive and, following
behind, my bike nearly comes out from
under me several times. Eventually it does,
and I’m left with a mouthful of sand and
a broken sandal.
Deep in the forest, we come to a clear-
ing. In the centre sits a lone temple, crum-
bling and overgrown with vegetation. Its
name is Prasat Srei Krop Leak, Vothea
says, and it was built in the 11th century.
A parade of ants moves across the trail,
and it feels as if we are in a place that
very rarely sees humans. Vothea smiles
proudly while I stare in awe, an insig-
nificant intruder in this ancient space.
We spend the rest of the morning at
some of Sambor Prei Kuk’s better-known
temple complexes. Prasat Sambor, the
main temple group, is a monument to Trailblazing: (centre) Chin Vothea is a
Gambhireshvara, an incarnation of Shiva. knowledge guide to Kampong Thom;
(clockwise from far left) Prasat Chrei
Some of its structures retain clear inscrip-
is a gem within the Sambor Prei
tions telling of King Isanavarman I; oth- Kuk temple complex; motorbikes
ers, overwhelmed by vines and suffer- are useful to reach some of Sambor
ing from centuries of neglect, have been Prei Kuk’s more remote temples; a
reduced to little more than rubble. group of macaques lounge at Phnom
Santuk; a fallen tree adds some
We visit a temple dedicated to Durga, natural drama to a temple at Sambor
Shiva’s wife. Inside sits a fractured statue Prei Kuk
of the goddess. “They want to express the
unity of man and woman, that they look
after each other,” Vothea says. Another
temple, Prasat Chrei, sitting near the for- Where to stay
est’s edge, has been engulfed by nature, Sambor Village Hotel
a snarl of tamarisk roots and stone that Tucked away in a green enclave
have become a solitary structure reaching by the Stung Sen river, Kampong
lopsided toward the sun. Thom’s Sambor Village Hotel is the
town’s premier choice for boutique
On the way back, Vothea leads us on lodging. Longan trees, palm fronds
a longer route, coasting down copper red and lotus flowers help make the
roads, dodging potholes and lopsided hotel a serene getaway, with its
expansive pool taking centre
stones, with verdant oceans of rice on stage alongside the property’s
both sides. The midday sun soaks the comfortable bungalows.
landscape in a pleasant haze. A boy g
GETAWAYS
Friendly faces: (from left) a nun offers

blessings at Phnom Santuk; a fish vendor
hawks her wares on the road near the
Stung Sen river; a man lights a cigarette
while the sky darkens behind him; one of
Phnom Santuk’s monks relaxes on
a paricularly balmy day
leads a drove of oxen across the road. them over.” He is referring to the horde pagodas and stupas peppered with statues
Families lounge in the shade of their of macaques that rule Phnom Santuk, of nagas, dragons and 15th-century reclin-
getting mondulkiri Kampong cham kratie stilted homes. feasting on donated, dropped and pilfered ing Buddhas, cracked and ageing. Vothea
out there In the wild east of Cambodia lies
this sparsely populated province
Just a two-hour drive from Phnom
Penh, Kampong Cham makes
Kratie’s main draw is undoubt-
edly the opportunity to see the
After a lazy afternoon, we drive to
Phnom Santuk, a Buddhist heritage site
goods from tourists.
Close to the peak of Phnom Santuk is
points out a bell made from the tip of a
B52’s bomb. The deep, distant booming
A brief guide to three with densely forested mountains, a great getaway. The quaint pro- majestic, but critically endangered, located roughly 17km south of Kam- a cliff where, alongside a few primate of a drum gathers Phnom Santuk’s monks
of Cambodia’s other thunderous waterfalls and a range vincial capital has an abundance freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins. pong Thom. Set about 200m above sea friends, visitors are afforded a view of for an evening ceremony.
less-visited provinces of wildlife. Many visitors head to its of French colonial architecture, However, the province is also level, visitors can reach the site’s spires the countryside’s seemingly endless rice We leave them and walk back to our
renowned elephant sanctuary, the but the real highlights are the home to some of the country’s and pagodas by climbing more than 800 paddies. We spend more time than might motorbikes, the sky darkening. The drive
Elephant Valley Project, where the province’s smattering of temples, best Mekong sunsets, hundreds of steps. Less intrepid travellers, such as this be necessary gazing out on the provincial down the mountain is sombre, my visit to
great beasts can roam in a stress- the must-see bamboo bridge and, accessible islets and a capital with writer, can take a bypassing 2.5km road. landscape, dotted, as it is, with stately Kampong Thom nearly over. The clamour
free habitat of 300,000 hectares of more simply, the opportunity to more food and drink options than “We should move our bikes,” Vothea sugar palms and delicate rumduol trees. of Phnom Penh seems closer than I would
protected forest. soak up a typical slice of rural life. is normal for a quiet province. says at the top. “The monkeys will knock Phnom Santuk itself is a collection of like to admit.
leisure
Where the wild Sarus Crane birdwatching
things are
The tallest flying bird in the world, the majestic
sarus crane has become a rare sight across
Southeast Asia. Taking its name from the Sanskrit
word for ‘courtship’, inspired by its elegant
mating dance, the sarus crane has had its habitat
Leave the air conditioning and complimentary robes behind devastated by the expansion of the agricultural
and soak up cambodia’s breathtaking natural environment industry. A day’s drive from Siem Reap, the Ang
Trapaeng Thmor Sarus Crane Reserve is home to
more than 300 cranes in the dry season, though
upwards of 200 other species of bird can also
be found. Birdwatching trips can be organised
through the Sam Veasna Centre, which offers local
communities a sustainable income through eco-
tourism. Visit between January and May for the best
Elephant Valley Project chance to catch a glimpse of the elusive crane.
Built on the premise that elephants belong in the

wild rather than in captivity, the Elephant Valley Koh Kong trekking
Project in Mondulkiri is a sanctuary for overworked
For those not content holidaying from a hammock,
elephants that have been retired from lives of
Ritthy Koh Kong Eco Adventure Tours offers travellers a
labour. Visitors shadow the elephants through the
chance to bushwhack through the untamed jungles of
jungle and learn their histories from local mahouts,
Cambodia’s southwest. Would-be wanderers can choose
who also reveal the cultural rites and practices of the
a day-long riverside trek or up to four days camping in
indigenous Bunong people of Mondulkiri. Shave $30
the Cardamom Mountains in Koh Kong province. Camp is
off the $85 cost of a day-long visit by volunteering on
set up near a waterfall where trekkers can cool off after
the farms that keep the elephants fed. True elephant
exploring the jungle with their guides, who also prepare
enthusiasts can spend up to a week volunteering
the evening’s barbecue. Both options require
around the sanctuary, with both backpacker dorms
a minimum of two people and range from $20 per
and private bungalows available.
person for a day trek to between $35 and $130 per
person for a longer trip.
Grasshopper
Adventures cycling Yeak Lom lake
Photos: Peter Harris (1); Anne Holmes (1), both for Discover
From the hidden trails of Angkor Wat to the A place of worship for local hill tribes in northeastern
timeless Silk Island on the Mekong, Grasshopper Ratanakiri province, Yeak Lom lake lies in the crater of an
Adventures’ cycling tours of Cambodia offer ancient volcano 5km from the provincial capital of Ban
travellers hidden glimpses of a country that Lung. An oasis of pristine serenity, Yeak Lom is ideal for an
can sometimes get lost behind a world of room afternoon of bathing and relaxation, although the 2.5km
service and rooftop revelry. Set off on a one-day walk around the lake’s edge offers splendid local scenery
ride along the abandoned railway lines to the for those who can tear themselves away from the water.
old capital of Oudong, or push yourself with a Be sure to talk to locals for a chance to learn more about
week-long trip from Angkor to the coast with indigenous culture and the spirits that watch over the
Grasshopper’s wide range of tour styles. Prices lake and its surrounds. Nearby markets also offer hand-
start at about $65 for a half-day trip. woven scarves, musical instruments and other native arts
and crafts.
CULTURE
The art of M
uscles straining beneath the ground for the artists who have made the mance, fine arts and music that can offer
taut skin of his forearms, city famous for its bohemian embrace of all them a life beyond their rural roots.
the acrobat’s body trembles things artistic. Born in the refugee camps Walking beneath the paper lanterns
beneath the stark light of the in Thailand, what started as a way for the of the school’s grounds at twilight, visi-
letting go
big top. Balanced head-down atop a shift- exiled children of Cambodia to use art to tors can take in galleries displaying the
ing tower of planks, tins and buckets, cope with the trauma of a country tearing artwork of students past and present.
he bunches his powder-white face in con- itself apart has expanded into a sprawling Throughout the week, students focusing
centration as he struggles to keep his feet school dedicated to teaching Cambodia’s on performing arts take to the big top on
ramrod straight toward the distant sky. As disenfranchised youth the skills in perfor- campus to perform for locals and tour-
the crowd stares in aching silence, he lifts ists alike. Although not as polished as the
a hand inches off the wood. Breaths we professionals on display in Phare Ponleu
A bastion of contemporary art and culture, Battambang didn’t realise we were holding slip from
Students who have Selpak’s other big top in Siem Reap, the
produced some of Cambodia’s finest artists of the 20th century. our lips, and the tent erupts into applause. studied their craft since shows rank among the best you can see in
Now, a new generation is grappling with their nation’s past In Cambodia’s art capital of Battambang they were children Cambodia, as students who have studied
through performance, paint and photography in the country’s northwest, the organisa-
perform acts as gripping
their craft since they were children create
tion Phare Ponleu Selpak – “The Bright- and perform a number of acts as gripping
Words by Paul Millar Photography by Thomas Cristofoletti ness of the Arts” – has long been a proving as they are surreal as they are surreal. g
Painting pain: Battambang’s Romcheik 5 art

space is a haven for artists drawing on the
despair and loneliness of their early lives
CULTURE
Phat Sreyleak, a student contortionist

at the school, told Discover before the A taste of greater
night’s performance that her desire to
Art attack: (clockwise
from top left) works by Battambang
join the circus was inseparable from her local artist Chov Teanly Away from the art scene, Cambodia’s
admiration of those who had come before on display at Lotus Bar second-largest city and its surrounds
her. “When I look at the older generation, & Gallery; Romcheik 5
artist-in-residence Mil are home to some unique
I feel very proud of their performance,”
she said.
Chankrim; paintings and sightseeing opportunities
sculptures by Bor Hak
That this incredible institution coexists
with the nexus of Cambodia’s art scene is
no coincidence: it is from the classrooms The world’s
of Phare Ponleu Selpak that a new genera- weirdest train?
tion of Khmer artists have cemented the Battambang’s most
city’s reputation as a hub of performing famous attraction,
arts and constantly evolving galleries. the bamboo train,
A short tuk tuk ride from the city cen- has been rumoured to be on the verge
tre takes visitors down a green garden of extinction for years, but is still holding
lane to Romcheik 5, the most striking on. A health and safety inspector’s worst
of Battambang’s scattered galleries and nightmare, the ‘train’ consists of a large
art spaces. A sanctuary of raw modern board of bamboo placed atop some wheels
and surrealist art, it houses the paintings that zooms along decrepit train tracks at a
and sculptures of a group of local art- rather startling pace. Tourists are welcomed
ists living and working on the premises aboard for a scenic and unique glimpse of
under the auspices of their French patron. the countryside in just 20 minutes.
From mutilated wooden fetishes studded
St Sebastian-like with six-inch nails, to
A new generation of
abstract expressionist works flayed into artists have cemented To the bat cave
the canvas, Romcheik 5 contains some the city’s reputation as A short hop out of
of the best contemporary art Cambodia town lies Phnom
has produced.
a hub of performing arts Sampeau, a striking
Climbing a twisting steel staircase to and galleries mountain that rises
the top floor of this three-storey gallery out of the plain and truly comes to life as the
reveals a space open to the elements save mortification of Buddhist sculpture as sun begins to descend. An estimated two
for a steel marquee, its bare metal struts they do the works of Egon Schiele – to million bats take flight from a cave at the
framing motley works of contemporary force viewers to confront the reality of mountain’s base in an awe-inspiring show
Cambodian art. Peering over the con- the modern-day slave trade. of nature. As dusk settles in, the bats swirl
crete edge brings a vista of rusted tin For a glimpse of those up-and-coming en masse through the evening sky in a tight
roofs and savage green overgrowth shel- artists who came to their craft by other spiral formation and over the neighbouring
tering the odd despondent cow. As the paths, Maek Make Art Space near the rice fields in search of their daily feed.
garbled cries of roosters filter through city centre – recently reopened and
the whitewashed brick walls of the gal- under new management – gives aspiring
lery, the tortured faces trapped beneath Cambodian artists without formal training He’s a big lad
the weight of their frames seem almost a chance to hone and display their visions The city’s penchant for
to move. of Cambodian society. On the upper floor statues and monu-
Flanked by garish portraits of human of a local crafts shop, the gallery’s blunt ments is obvious within
misery, resident artist Mil Chankrim black walls are studded with the photogra- minutes of arrival, but
described his paintings as a way to reflect phy of local artists, shimmering as the white there is one effigy that stands above all oth-
on the hardships of his childhood. “I want lights bend beneath a guttering ceiling fan. ers. Often flanked by selfie-snapping locals
to speak about my own story,” he said. One such photographer is Phoeung and tourists, the giant Statue of Preah Bat
Forced into child labour after crossing Visal. His first exhibition, Surviving in Dambang Kranhoung depicts the Kranhoung
the border to Thailand at 13, Chankrim Battambang, details the daily struggle of stick king and references a local legend that
has used his artwork – skinned foetal domestic life for those who have grown gave the province its name – Battambang
figures that owe as much to the ascetic g up in the shadow of war. g can be loosely translated as ‘loss of stick’.
CULTURE
Discover
TIP
One unforgettable
way to arrive in
100 +
Battambang is via
boat from Siem
Jetting around
Reap. It can be an
arduous journey,
but one that is well
worth the effort TIPS
for the beautiful
scenery and
glimpses of tiny
ON WHERE TO EAT, SLEEP,
DRINK AND EXPLORE
the country
and need travel
fishing villages. DREAMING BIG
Tickets can be MEET THE COMMUNITY
TRANSFORMING KAMPOT
booked easily at INTO A CREATIVE HUB
inspiration
travel agents in
Temple Town.
INTO THE
UNKNOWN
on the fly?
DELVE INTO THE HIDDEN
TEMPLES AND SERENE
COUNTRY LIFE OF
Top form: student performers from KAMPONG THOM
Battambang’s Phare Ponleu Selpak SECRETS OF
showcase their skills in the big top
A KINGDOM
ENJOY A FRESH PERSPECTIVE
ON THE MAJESTY OF ANGKOR
“After the war, we are living in very Penh. Works by local and foreign artists characteristic of Cambodia’s second-largest
hard conditions – people have to find burn bright against the bare brick walls: city. Indoors, woven wicker couches clus-
different ways to survive themselves,” Chov Teanly’s emaciated Buddhas in tered around a table whorled with old
he said. “[There are] many, many poor photorealist relief fold lotus-like behind brushstrokes, as well as the ubiquitous art
people in the countryside – it’s very hard barbells and Nike sportswear – centuries on the walls, add to an atmosphere more
to survive here – they don’t know how to of ascetic devotion caught in a silent strug- studio than shop. Ideal for breakfast or
sell their life.” gle with creeping consumer culture. The a quick coffee, early birds passing by the
Still crawling with the remnants of the alien gaze of an central Psar Nat
Khmer Rouge until the final end of hostili- apsara slashed in market on their
ties in 1996, Battambang has risen from yellows and blacks Battambang has risen way to Kinyei may
decades of devastation partly through the into a lifeless slab from decades of catch the strains of
art of those still scarred by its memory. of driftwood by chanting monks as
“Even myself, I lived in very hard condi- Bo Rithy tears devastation partly they receive offer-
tions when I was a child,” Visal said. “I the centuries- through the art of those ings on their daily
think that through the image, through the old image of the scarred by its memory alms round.
photo, we can change people’s thinking.” sacred dancer It is devotion,
A recent rebirth in Battambang’s mercu- from its static bas- from the teen-
rial gallery scene, Maek Make’s fine collec- reliefs of the lost Khmer Empire and into age troupers balancing one-handed
tion of young talent and central location the worn detritus of its fractured succes- beneath the big top to the artists carving
make it an obvious stop on any art tour sors. Recently reopened, the gallery offers their country’s grief onto a canvas, that
of the city. a pared-back menu with a mixture of veg- lies at Battambang’s heart – a fusion of
Across the street, Battambang’s bustling
art scene spills out, as it does in so many
etarian dishes perfect for an afternoon Cambodia’s colonial legacy with a new
break between galleries. generation unafraid of facing its past. Download
of the city’s cafés, from Lotus Bar and
Gallery. A popular hangout for paint-
Around the corner, nestled in the crook Striking a balance between anguish and
of an L-shaped street off the main strip, art, it is these ascendant artists that have the free app now
ers and printmakers alike, Lotus has an Kinyei Café’s balcony peers through hang- built for themselves a city where, under
assured bohemian feel found only too ing pot plants at a sleepy medley of colo- the fixated eyes of the audience, they raise discover-cambodia.com
rarely outside Cambodia’s capital, Phnom nial and traditional Khmer architecture their hands by inches.
CULTURE
Masters at work
contemporary art is flourishing in cambodia, and whether
you’re a potential buyer or a fascinated newcomer, these Sopheap Pich
artists are a critical introduction to the scene Perhaps Cambodia’s most
internationally renowned
contemporary artist, Pich was
born in 1971 and moved with
Leang Seckon his family to the US in 1984,
where he received an MFA at
A former student at Cambodia’s the School of the Art Institute
Royal University of Fine Arts, in Chicago. Returning to
Seckon uses his artwork to explore Cambodia in 2002, he set to
Khmer history, culture, death and work creating sculptures from
environmental issues. His work indigenous materials such
has been displayed extensively as bamboo, rattan and earth
in Southeast Asia, as well as at pigments. His experience of
venues in the US and Europe. the Khmer Rouge years has
Seckon is famous for an extensive a profound influence on his
use of mixed media and collage work, shaping his chosen
techniques, juxtaposing traditional themes of time, memory and
symbols and motifs against the body. His sculptures have
contemporary figures and events. been displayed at some of
His work “Bang Skol” epitomises the world’s most respected
these techniques, reflecting his galleries, including New
own struggle to come to terms with York’s Metropolitan Museum
the country’s turbulent past and of Art and the Centre Georges
encroaching modernity. Pompidou in Paris.
Sokuntevy Oeur Chhim Sothy

Battambang-born Oeur’s work has drawn Sothy was born in Kandal province
much interest, largely due to her immense in 1969, making him old enough to
skill with a paintbrush, but also thanks to have truly experienced the horrors
her status as arguably Cambodia’s most inflicted by the Khmer Rouge regime
prominent female contemporary artist. in the 1970s. He honed his skills as
Her work is stylistically surreal and entails a student at the Royal University of
Photos: Nicolas Axelrod for Discover Cambodia
an impassioned exploration of female Fine Arts in the 1990s, and today his
sexuality and empowerment. Her 2010 series works fuse Khmer traditionalism with
Love to Death was particularly bold in its European painting. Conflicting themes
representation of sexual experience – one of development, construction, hardship
piece displayed a female figure mounting and inequality resonate in his paintings,
her lover while holding a raised machete, and his work has been exhibited in
ready to strike. Her work shines a light on Southeast Asia, Paris and the US. So
gender issues in the country and has seen her respected is the artist that he now
hailed as part of a vanguard helping to shift holds a position within the Cambodian
attitudes toward women. Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts.

in the know
All the
world’s
a page The Cambodian Dancer
Enjoy hours of holiday reading with Cambodia’s Second Kingdom By Daryn Reicherter
these essential books Based on the true story of a Cambodian dancer
By Astrid Norén-Nilsson who fled the carnage of the Khmer Rouge
A thorough exploration of modern Cambodia’s tense after the regime killed her family, Reicherter’s
political landscape, Swedish political scientist Astrid touching children’s book – elegantly rendered in
Norén-Nilsson’s wonderfully accessible treatise charts the watercolours by illustrator Christy Hale – reinforces
competing visions of Cambodia fuelling an increasingly the importance of artistic expression in the face
hostile political climate. Boasting intimate interviews with of grievous loss. Following the dancer to her new
Prime Minister Hun Sen, opposition leader Sam Rainsy and home in California, where she begins to instruct
more of the nation’s most powerful politicians, Cambodia’s her fellow refugees in the dance form immortalised
Second Kingdom puts into context the turmoil of a nation by the apsara of Angkor, The Cambodian Dancer
still struggling to forge a new identity after decades of war. is a paean to the enduring legacy of Cambodia’s
most ancient cultural art.
Hunters in the Dark

The Angkor Guidebook By Lawrence Osborne
Touted by some as the new Graham Greene,
By Andrew Booth writer-cum-nomad Lawrence Osborne’s
A lavish study of Cambodia’s most iconic landmark, latest literary thriller follows despairing
The Angkor Guidebook from AboutAsia Travel English teacher Robert Grieve across the
combines cutting-edge archaeological research into Thai-Cambodia border and into a pit of
the Angkor temple complexes with beautiful overlaid violence, corruption and intrigue from which
reproductions of the holy city at the height of its he struggles to escape. As Robert’s once-lacklustre life becomes
splendour. An ideal pocket companion for first-time hopelessly entangled in the machinations of urbane playboy Simon
travellers to Cambodia, Andrew Booth’s awe-inspiring Beaucamp and Khmer Rouge torturer-turned-crooked-cop Davuth, his
vision of a monument ravaged by time offers
a glimpse back to a land where gods and demons
anguished meditations on the fundamental irrationality of existence
give Hunters in the Dark a depth that will endure long after the last
Customs of Cambodia
once warred for the fate of the world. page has been turned. By Zhou Daguan Translated by Solang uk and Beling Uk
In August 1296, at the height of the Khmer Empire,
Chinese official Zhou Daguan arrived at the court of
Apps and ebooks God-King Indravarman III in the ancient capital of
Angkor. Shocked and entranced by the alien scenes
exnet taxi splitwise An interactive guide before his eyes, his book The Customs of Cambodia
Launched in 2016, Exnet is Cambodia’s A great tool for those embarking on to angkor – most recently translated and annotated by Chinese-
answer to Uber, enabling customers group holidays, Splitwise keeps a running Complete with voice-overs and suggested
itineraries, archaeologist Dougald O’Reilly’s
Khmer couple Solang and Beling Uk – is an intimate
to book rides with the company’s total of a holiday’s expenses and
fleet of casual drivers by using calculates exactly what everyone owes 88-page guide provides tourists with glimpse into daily Cambodian life more than seven
smartphone GPS technology. their fellow travellers at the end. fascinating insights and helpful practical tips. centuries ago, from the countless concubines of the
king to the hill tribe slaves bought and sold for
a hundred copper coins.

IN THE KNOW
Festival diary Snap happy

December
Held in Siem Reap, the Angkor
Photo Festival is the longest-running
taking in one of Cambodia’s festivals or cultural events photography event in Southeast Asia.
can help make a visit to the kingdom even more enchanting The event entails free international
exhibitions and workshops designed
to promote young Asian talent and
the development of photography
as an art in the region. Among the
photographers who have exhibited at
the festival early on in their careers
is Cambodian Kim Hak, who has
gone on to impress critics on the
international stage.
Days of the dead heave ho

september/october november
Pchum Ben is a Buddhist festival that Historically, Phnom Penh’s
sees Cambodians pay respects to their Water Festival provided
ancestors of up to seven generations. a training opportunity for
The 15-day festival is the most the navy. In the modern
anticipated religious event of the year, era, however, oarsmen in
Photos: Kim Hak (1); Mak Remissa (1); Pring Samrang (2)
with Cambodians typically spending wooden longboats have
this period visiting pagodas to make become militarily redundant,
offerings to the spirits of deceased and the festival has
family members. Each year, the village transformed into a three-day
of Vihear Sour, about 35km northeast of boat-racing event on the
Phnom Penh in Kandal province, hosts Tonle Sap, complete with
unmissable bareback buffalo racing and assorted riverside revelry.
traditional Khmer wrestling on the final After sunset, fireworks and
weekend of the festival. light displays illuminate the
riverfront, drawing about one
million visitors to the capital
each year.
New beginnings Urban scrawl A time for praise

April april may The director’s chair A literary great
Khmer New Year is the biggest, and Organised by the French Institute, the Visak Bochea day falls on the 15th December November
probably rowdiest, holiday on the Cambodia Urban Art Festival is day of the waxing moon, during the Since 2010, Phnom Penh has hosted the The Kampot Writers and Readers Festival
Cambodian calendar. The three-day a celebration of the country’s nascent sixth lunar month, and celebrates the Cambodia International Film Festival, is a literature, arts and culture event that
celebration often coincides with the end street art scene that also attracts some anniversary of the Buddha’s birth, gathering thousands of locals, expats takes place across a total of 20 venues,
of the harvest season, providing rural high-grade international talent to Phnom enlightenment and death. During this and tourists at movie theatres around the most of them in the sleepy creative hub
communities with even greater cause Penh. A definite highlight is the urban art public holiday, Cambodians are expected city. Films made in or about Cambodia of Kampot. Launched in 2015, the festival
for celebration. Businesses tend to close tuk tuk tour, a wonderfully unique to show added respect to the country’s are central to the event, though a variety adopts a new theme each year – the
down during the holiday as workers experience that involves visitors being ubiquitous saffron-robed monks. of films from around the world is also most recent being ‘Peace, Freedom and
return to the provinces to party it up with whisked around the capital for an Visitors to Angkor Wat will be treated shown over the course of six days. In 2015, Prosperity’. Visitors can expect lectures
their families. To best experience the up-close look at key murals. These tours to a luminous torchlight procession at Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt stopped by, from local literary figures, a forum for
festivities, head to the countryside, where are in high demand, so visitors should dusk, during which Cambodians carry the former in her role as president of the discussion of the arts, and peripheral
traditional dancing, games and other check the French embassy’s website early burning incense and flowers in silent, festival’s honorary committee, bringing activities such as cooking demonstrations
activities bring whole villages together. to avoid disappointment. contemplative prayer. worldwide press attention. and live music.
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annual 2017

The Essence of Cambodia Volume 6, USD6

into the unknown

the majesty of angkor

SAVOUR MORE THAN 20 TYPES OF DIM SUM

26 OLD AUGUST SITE - SOTHEAROS BLVD - 12301 PHNOM PENH

scars run deep. Who knows which side

6 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

Publisher Tassilo Brinzer

Editor in Chief Dene Mullen

Editor Holly Robertson

Designers Fanny Duru, Vathana Phon, Navet Tab

8 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

120 Town and country

126 Where the wild things are

128 The art of letting go

136 All the world’s a page

138 Dates for your diary

140 The directory

68 Phnom Penh 100 Just browsing?

90 Elsewhere 114 in with the new

10 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

Luxury on the move

Travelling right: Meas

The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2017 15

Siem Reap Phnom Penh

An eye on the past

1975 1998 2004

A gift: receiving a crown is an important, and

Bell boy: musicians play the kong toch sensory

Maker's mark: all of the

Phnom Penh Siem Reap

Focus: dancers prepare to perform,

Magic fingers: a dancer with the Sacred Dancers

The students exude

30 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

32 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

Matters of life Spirit Houses

Pung Chhiv Kek

36 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

Every Cambodian has more

or less the same scars that my

family has and experiences we

40 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

Into the past

42 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

44 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

Mek taught Chorn-Pond forbidden tunes

hops-brewery.com hopsbeercambodia +855 (0)93 999 017

The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2016 51

Chef-owner Johannes Riviere on his

52 Discover 2016 The Essence of Cambodia

With a pink skin that hides white or

From the same family as the lychee,

Purple on the outside with snow-white

The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2017 55

Cuisine dreams Amansara’s cooking class whisks students from humming

The Essence of Cambodia Discover 2017 57

58 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

The world on your fingertips

Brooklyn Pizza and Bistro

60 Discover 2017 The Essence of Cambodia

Nom Banh Chok

120 Town and country

126 Where the wild things are

128 The art of letting go

136 All the world’s a page

138 Dates for your diary

140 The directory

68 Phnom Penh 100 Just browsing?

90 Elsewhere 114 in with the new

Festival diary Snap happy