Olde Forge Adirondack Chair PLANS PDF

Old Forge
Adirondack Chair
Complete Plans – Parts List - Instructions – Photos

(Everything you need to build this beautiful and functional chair)
Terms of Use
The following information is passed on to you for the purpose of guiding you in the
construction of this project. Upon purchasing this copy…
You may:
- Build as many of this project as you wish from this copy

- Share this copy with others interested in building this project
- Duplicate this copy electronically or as a photocopy for the sole
purpose of sharing this information and building this project
You may not:
- Advertise and/or sell this information in any form for the purpose
of financial gain
- Make any changes to the information provided and claiming it as your
original work
Disclaimer
The following information is my own interpretation of the working drawings, patterns,

and procedures required in the construction of this project. They are drawn with utmost
accuracy. All necessary information is represented in these pages, however, despite
having built numerous products using this information without any errors whatsoever,
omissions and errors can occur from time to time and may require your input to solve
such issues.
Safety is of utmost importance when operating any tool or machinery and extreme care
must be taken when using any hand or power tool when building this project. Although I
recommend using a certain tool for a particular operation, you can use these tools at
your discretion. At no time, am I liable for any injury you may encounter during the
construction of this project.
Please send errors, omissions, comments or questions to “tom66@bellaliant.net”

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Olde Forge Adirondack Chair
Parts List
Part # Part Name Overall Size (all pieces are 3/4" thick) required
Length x Width
1 Side 36 x 5 1/2 2
2 Arm 31 x 5 1/2 2
3 Front Leg 19 1/2 x 3 1/4 2
4 Back leg 26 x 2 1/4 2
5 Back 1 29 1/8 x 2 5/8 2
6 Back 2 30 1/2 x 2 5/8 2
7 Back 3 31 1/8 x 2 5/8 2
8 Back 4 31 1/4 x 2 5/8 1
9 Arm Support 6 x 3 1/4 2
10 Arm Bracket Support 6 x 2 2
11 Seat 2 (Back Piece) 20 x 4 1
12 Front 20 x 3 1
13 Bottom Back Support 20 x 3 1/4 1
14 Top Back Support 20 x 4 1
15 Seat 1 20 x 2 1/4 6
Total # of pieces required per chair 29
All dimensions in inches

Using the
Grid Method
in obtaining your pattern
If you choose you can create your full size patterns from the working drawings supplied in this
package and it is a relatively simple task. You will first need to acquire enough bristol board or
any other type of paper, cardboard, etc. large enough to accommodate your patterns.
Follow these simple steps …
1/ Since each of my working drawings contain a grid representing 1 inch squares, use a pencil, a
ruler and a straight edge (this could be a framing square or a straight piece of wood or anything
long and straight) to draw a grid of equal ratio containing the exact number of squares for each
pattern. *REMEMBER that each square must be exactly 1” wide and 1” long.
2/ Using my patterns, draw the image on your pattern sheet focusing on one square at a time,
until the entire image has been transferred. Take very close notice as to where each line crosses
the grid.
*I’ve also included many measurements in my working drawings. Along with transferring your
patterns by studying the grids, measure accurately to achieve better results.
Take your time and you will have all patterns completed in no time at all.
Ready. Set….Go!
…or you can choose to print the full size patterns following the
scaled drawings from this package.
31"
4-3/4"
5-1/2"
0-3/4"
2 2-1/4"
Arm
(2 req'd)
36"
18-11/16"
2-1/4"
15-1/4"
5-1/2"
3-1/4"
1/4" holes 1/4" hole
5-1/2"
4"
2-5/8"
2-1/16"
1-5/32"
0-3/4"
5-1/8"
2-1/2"
5-31/32" 1 3-13/16"
Side
(2 req'd)
Scale: 3"=1'
20"
1"
1-1/2"
14 2-1/2"
4"
Top Back Support
(1 req'd)
1-1/8"
20"
0-5/8"
13
3-1/4"
Bottom Back Support 1-1/4"
(1 req'd) 0-5/8"
3-1/2"
20"
3"
0-1/2"
11 4"
Seat 2 (Back piece) 2-3/8"
2-3/4"
(1 req'd)
0-1/2"
0-3/8"
20"
15
Seat 2-1/4"
(6 req'd) 1-1/8"
0-3/8"
20"
0-5/8"
12 2-1/4"
3"
Front
(1 req'd)
1"
1-1/2" 2-1/2" 0-3/8"
Scale: 3"=1'
2-1/2"
31-1/4" 31-1/8"
30-1/2"
29-1/8"
21"
0-3/8"
1-5/8"
8 7 6 5
Back 4 Back 3 Back 2 Back 1
(1 req'd) (2 req'd) (2 req'd) (2 req'd)
Scale: 3"=1'
2-1/4"
35°
3-1/4"
1-5/8"
1"
3/16" holes
4-3/4"
7-1/2"
10-1/2"
26"
24-7/16"
1/4" holes
19-1/2" 20-1/16"
1-1/8"
1-3/4" 1/4" hole
3 4
Front Leg Back Leg
(2 req'd) (2 req'd)
Scale: 3"=1'
2" 3-1/4"
1-1/4"
1-1/4" 2"
0-3/8"
1-1/2"
6"
1"
3"
10 Arm Bracket 9 Arm Support

(2 req'd) (2 req'd)
WARNING!
Prior to printing, set your printer to print actual size or 100%
Measure each part after printing to ensure they are indeed full size
Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)

Full Size Patterns
The following 28 pages contain full size patterns you can print and use for your
patterns. They are an exact duplicate of the scaled drawings. You will be
overlapping these pages and you’ll need some tape to piece them together.
Take your time to ensure they are accurate.
WARNING!
Measure each part after printing to ensure they are indeed full size
Each square must measure exactly 1 inch x 1 inch

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1
Arm (1 of 4)
WARNING! Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)
Measure each page after printing to ensure they are indeed full size
8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
Arm (2 of 4)
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27
Arm (3 of 4)
1 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
Arm (4 of 4)
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
1/4" holes
Side (1 of 4)
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Side (2 of 4)
20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Side (3 of 4)
7 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
1/4" hole
Side (4 of 4)
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Top Back Support
Top Back Support (1 of 2) WARNING! Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Top Back Support (2 of 2) WARNING! Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
BottomBack Support
BottomBack Support (1 of 2)
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
BottomBack Support (2 of 2)
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Seat 2
Seat 2 (1 of 2)
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Seat 2 (2 of 2)
Seat
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Front
Seat & Front (1 of 2) WARNING! Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Seat & Front (2 of 2) WARNING! Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)
Back 1
31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22
Back 2
Back 1 & Back 2 (1 of 4) WARNING! Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)
22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12
Back 1 & Back 2 (2
(1 of 4) WARNING! Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)
14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
Back 3
31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22
Back 4
22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12
14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16
3/16" hole
Back Leg
19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9
Front Leg
3/16" holes
1/4" holes
Front & Back Legs (1 of 3) WARNING! Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)
7 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
1/4" holes
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
1/4" hole
2 1 0
Arm Bracket Arm Support
Arm Bracket WARNING!

Arm Support Prior to printing, set your printer to print actual size or 100% Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)
(1 of 1)
Instructions
Please read and understand all information in this package before beginning construction of this project.
Notes:
- The following are helpful hints in helping you build this project from start to finish.
- Previous knowledge of hand and power tools is an asset, however, use them at your
discretion (see Disclaimer).
- All holes for this project are 3/16” in diameter except for the 6 holes used in the
front and back leg/side assembly. These 6 holes will be indicated on the working
drawings
- There is no need to countersink any holes if building your project with softwood. The
wood is soft enough to allow countersinking with a screwdriver alone
- If building this project with hardwood, it is a good idea to drill a pilot hole (1/8”) to
accept the wood screws. This will prevent your wood from splitting.
Tools & Equipment:

The following tools and equipment will be useful in the construction of this project:
Necessary:
Jig Saw Exterior Glue
Hand Drill ¼” x 2” galvanized carriage bolts (6 pcs)
#2 Robertson (square) Screwdriver ¼” galvanized washer (6 pcs)
or bit (for use with hand drill) ¼” galvanized nut (6 pcs)
3
#8 x 1 ½” exterior screws (54 pcs) /16” Drill Bit
#8 x 1 ¼” exterior screws (4 pcs) ¼” Drill Bit
80 grit Sandpaper
Optional (These are not necessary but will make your job easier):
Table Saw (with optional sanding disc) Drill Press
Band Saw or Scroll Saw Sanding Drums
Router ¼ “ round router bit
Mitre Saw Coping Saw
Hand Saw
Construction:
Be Selective…
Start by being selective when choosing your lumber for this project. Note that any
lumber can be used, however, certain lumber is resistant to rot and will make for a
longer lasting project if left outside. Personally I use Red Pine or Eastern White Cedar
as it is readily available in my area of the world. Do some research to find out what
lumber is available in your area.
When you have found your lumber, ensure it is planed to ¾” thickness as the plan
indicates. If it is not, it will need to be milled to this thickness to ensure all parts fit
accordingly. Most lumber sold at your local Building Supply store is already planed to
¾” thickness.
Once again, as you are being selective, choose the boards with fewer knots and
defects (if any) to be used in more visible areas of this project. I normally use such
boards for the arms, back & the seat as these areas will be more visible than any
other part of the project.
Keeping in mind that wood can check (crack) especially on the ends where air
penetrates more easily, I normally do not use the ends of a board for the front of the
arms. This is where most of your cracks will occur and this can be very visible.
 
 (cracking will mostly not occur) (cracking can occur)

Laying Out Parts For This Project…
In order to minimize waste, start by planning which parts can be made from which
boards. I always try to maximize my lumber by cutting large pieces first and then using
the scraps from these pieces to make some of the smaller parts. Also it is often
possible to flip a pattern (as in the example below) and arrange your patterns in such a
way to maximize the use of that board.
Cutting Individual Parts…
If you have access to a table saw and a mitre saw, use them to make all straight cuts. This
will ensure all edges will be straight, making sure no gaps are visible. This will also ensure
square (90 degree) corners which are crucial in assembling the project. Make sure you
make these cuts with the blade on the waste side of the line to arrive at the proper
dimensions as no sanding is necessary if the edges will not be seen after assembly.
I f you do not have access to a table saw or a mitre saw, you will need to make your cuts
with either a hand saw, coping saw, jigsaw or a combination of these. This will demand
extra caution making sure you arrive at the proper dimensions.
When cutting curves with a coping saw or jig saw, allow a little extra material beyond your
layout lines. This will allow you sand smooth to the line resulting in much smoother
surfaces and an overall much better project. *If you do not have access to a sanding drum,
cut as accurately and as close as possible to the line without touching it. This will save you
a lot of time sanding the edges of your project smooth.
Routering Parts Of Your Project…
This is entirely optional, but if you have access to a router it is a good idea to soften some
of the edges by routering some parts of your project. Personally, I do not router all edges. I
use a ¼” round router bit to router the arms (both sides), the seat (top only) the back
pieces (front only) and the Front (front only). I will also router the top of the “Top Back
Support” (Part #14) and the front edge of the “Bottom Back Support” (Part #13). These last
2 pieces make the chair more aesthetically pleasing. All other parts are left untouched as
they do not add to the comfort or aesthetics of the chair.
Before Assembling Your Project…
As this project will most likely remain outside for some time, it is important that you use an
exterior wood glue during assembly. Personally I do not use glue in all areas. I use glue only
where it will add to the strength and stability of the project namely where the front and
back legs are attached to the sides, the arms, and the front and back pieces of the seat. All
other pieces are left unglued and will be held with the screws only. This will become handy
if you ever have to replace any pieces at a later time.
Assembling Your Project…
How you choose to put your project together is entirely up to you, however, having built
many of these I find the following steps to be very successful.
(Step 1) I first start by setting the 2 “Sides” upright on my workbench. I’ll glue and
screw the “Bottom Back Support” to the 2 sides. Make sure the ends of the “Bottom
Back Support” are lined up perfectly (and flush) with the outside of each side. This will
ensure the chair to be exactly 20” wide as it should be.
(Step 2) Next, assemble the front “Seat” piece (#15). Again make sure the ends of the
Seat are lined up perfectly (and flush) with the outside of each side. This will ensure
your chair will be square.
(Step 3) The Front can then be added. Allow approximately 3/8” space below the first
piece you just installed.
(Step 4) Then attach the front legs. Use two ¼” x 2” galvanized carriage bolts on each
side. Put the washer and nut on the inside so they will not be visible. This will also be
safer as the bolt will not stick out the side of the chair.
(Step 5) The next part will be to screw “Back 4” to the “Bottom Back Support”. Make sure
it is centered perfectly on the “Bottom Back Support”.
(Step 6) Then assemble “Back 1” to the “Bottom Back Support”. They are to be
assembled so the edge lines up with the beginning of the curve.
(Step 7) Next will be the “Top Back Support”. This will make it easier to assemble the
remaining back pieces. Again the edges of “Back 1” should be lined up with the curved
section of the “Top Back Support”.
(Step 8) Next assemble the remaining back pieces (Back 2, Back 3). Make sure you
assemble these with equal spaces between all back pieces (approximately 1/8” at the
bottom and approximately 3/8” at the top).
(Step 9) Assemble the “Back Legs”. These should be installed from the top first (use two #8
x 1 ½” screws) and then the bottom (1/4” x 2” galvanized carriage bolt along with washer
and nut). Again place the washer and nut on the inside so they will not be as visible.
(Steps 10 & 11) Next will be the “Arm Bracket” and the “Arm Support”.
(Steps 12 & 13)The next part will be “Seat 2 (Back Piece)”. Ensure there is approximately
3/8” gap between this piece and the “Bottom Back Support”. Then place the remaining
“Seat” pieces spacing them evenly with approximately 3/8” gap between each piece.
(Step 14) The last part to be assembled will be the “Arms”. Start from the front using two
#8 x 1 ¼” screws. DO NOT USE THE 1 ½” SCREWS AS THEY WILL PROTRUDE THROUGH
THE ARMS AND BE EXPOSED! Make sure you line up the notch at the back of the arm with
“Back Leg” to determine the location of the arm. Also, the arm should be centered on the
“Arm Support”
Then screw the back of the “Arm” to the “Back Leg”.

Finishing Your Project:
Hmmm...this is a tough one...
My chairs are made of "new wood", meaning that resin and sap from knots and sap pockets will
eventually rise to the surface and show through most finishes. These will probably become more
apparent over time. This is normal with all new wood construction and it is important to allow
the wood to "breathe" and release moisture as it dries.
Although your project will look beautiful after applying a finish, you will notice after a short
period of time that the knots will show through even more. To this date, there is no solution to
prevent this problem. Here's why...
- Why not use paint and seal the wood?

As the wood dries, the moisture will cause the paint to peel, so paint is not an option.
- Why not use shellac and seal the knots and sap pockets before applying a stain?
Shellac will create a seal and will not allow the stain to penetrate those sealed areas, therefore
this would result in uneven distribution of stain making for dark and light areas of stain. In other
words your project’s finish will appear "blotchy".
- Why not apply an oil-based primer/sealer before applying a stain?

An oil-based primer/sealer would result in your stain to peel much as paint would as the
moisture tries to escape.
So we are faced with making a decision...

1/ Leave your project unfinished and wait one year before applying a stain. This way, most of the
moisture will have escaped and some paints, stains, etc will not peel as badly.
or...
2/ Finish your project with a stain and do expect the knots to show through over time. Again this
is normal. If you choose this option, your chairs should probably be refinished with the same
stain after one year. This is the option I always choose.
What stain should I use?
I have had very good success with Sico’s semi-transparent or solid stains. You can choose from
the pre mixed colors or have them scan your own color. Simply bring in a sample color and they
can match just about any color under the rainbow.
Sico website http://www.sico.ca/En/Index.asp

Semi Transparent Stain http://www.sico.com/Fiches/EN/FT/TDS_234XXX.pdf
Solid stain http://www.sico.com/Fiches/EN/FT/TDS_232XXX.pdf
Thank you for your purchase and Good Luck in building this project.
Take your time and enjoy this rewarding experience of making something with
your very own hands, but most of all, enjoy these chairs for years to come.
If you have any questions, comments, or concerns regarding this project,

please don’t hesitate to email me at
tom66@bellaliant.net

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Old Forge

Complete Plans – Parts List - Instructions – Photos

- Build as many of this project as you wish from this copy

You may not:

The following information is my own interpretation of the working drawings, patterns,

Please send errors, omissions, comments or questions to “tom66@bellaliant.net”

Total # of pieces required per chair 29

All dimensions in inches

Follow these simple steps …

1-1/2" 2-1/2" 0-3/8"

1-3/4" 1/4" hole

10 Arm Bracket 9 Arm Support

Scale: 1"=1" (Full Size)

Each square must measure exactly 1 inch x 1 inch

Arm Bracket WARNING!

Tools & Equipment:

Laying Out Parts For This Project…

Routering Parts Of Your Project…

Before Assembling Your Project…

Then screw the back of the “Arm” to the “Back Leg”.

Hmmm...this is a tough one...

- Why not use paint and seal the wood?

- Why not apply an oil-based primer/sealer before applying a stain?

So we are faced with making a decision...

What stain should I use?

Sico website http://www.sico.ca/En/Index.asp

If you have any questions, comments, or concerns regarding this project,

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