DSLR

Photography

30 Simple, Easy Principles and Techniques to Taking
Great Photographs with Your DSLR Camera!
Copyright 2016 by Edward Bailey - All rights reserved.

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Table of Content

Introduction
Chapter 1: DSLR Camera Maintenance
TIP 1: Avoiding a dirty image sensor
TIP 2: Cleaning DSLR lens
TIP 3: Avoiding the most common DSLR camera dangers
Chapter 2: Tips for Composition
TIP 4: Rule of thirds
TIP 5: Using focal points
TIP 6: Horizon line
TIP 7: Lean in the frame
Chapter 3: Taking Dreamy Photos of Water
TIP 8: Taking creative photos of water
Chapter 4: How to Get Better Sharpness and Autofocus in Images?
TIP 9: Don’t trust the viewfinder only; trust the camera’s focus
TIP 10: Look for 1-click 100% zoom for image playback
TIP 11: Master focus modes
TIP 12: Determine your customizations and preferences for camera control
Chapter 5: Setting Aperture for Portraits
TIP 13: Adjusting aperture
Chapter 6: Shooting Fast with a DSLR Camera
TIP 14: Shooting fast in aperture mode
TIP 15: Shooting fast in shutter priority
TIP 16: Shooting fast in Programmed Auto mode
TIP 17: Shooting fast in manual mode
Chapter 7: Animal Photography Tips
TIP 18: Know which lens to use
TIP 19: Adjusting the camera settings for photos of animals
TIP 20: Taking photos of ZOO animals
Chapter 8: Taking Photos of People Jumping
TIP 21: Settings for single-person or group jumps
Chapter 9: Useful Exposure Tips for Nature Photography
TIP 22: Flower gardens exposure tips
TIP 23: Exposure tips for black objects
Chapter 10: Capturing silhouettes
TIP 24: Photographing silhouettes
Chapter 11: Beach Photography Tips
TIP 25: Use the bracketing feature
TIP 26: Pay attention to horizon/polarizing filter
TIP 27: Use the flash to take photos of people
Chapter 12: Capturing a Sunrise
TIP 28: The basics for sunrise photos
TIP 29: Adjusting horizon
TIP 30: No filters!

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Conclusion



Introduction

I want to thank you and congratulate you for downloading the book, “DSLR Photography:
30 Simple, Easy Principles and Techniques to Taking Great Photographs with Your DSLR
Camera!”.
This book contains proven steps and strategies on how to use your DSLR camera to take
amazing photos even if you’re not a professional. A DSLR camera is an amazing tool for
both experienced photographers and people who are passionate about photography.
Nothing can compare to that feeling of joy and accomplishment one gets when one takes a
perfect photo. You don’t really have to be a professional photographer to experience these
emotions. You can easily take wonderful photos even as a beginner in the DSLR world.
How? The answer is simple; all you have to do is get brief insight into easy tips and tricks
that will help you take perfect photos at all times.
The first volume of the book focused on DSLR cameras in general, how to use it, features
it has, and so on. If you haven’t read it just yet, it’s a good time to do so. On the other
hand, the second volume concentrates on easy tips and tricks that everyone with a DSLR
camera should know. Taking amazing photos has never been easier! Learn how to
maintain your camera, take photos of animals, capture people jumping, photograph
sunrises, and much, much more.
Thanks again for downloading this book, I hope you enjoy it!
Chapter 1: DSLR Camera Maintenance

Before you take your DSLR camera and start taking photos, you have to know how to
maintain it properly. These cameras are very powerful, and they allow you to take
amazing photos and showcase your talent and creativity. With that being said, they require
a certain level of care and maintenance. If you thought maintaining your camera will be a
huge hassle, you’re wrong. It’s incredibly easy, and the very first chapter will show you
how to do that. These tips will help you ensure your camera is in optimal condition at all
times.

TIP 1: Avoiding a dirty image sensor

Most DSLR camera users usually face the same problem; they upload their photos onto a
computer and notice blotches and dark spots on all photos in exactly the same portion of
the image. It’s somewhat easier when these spots appear on photos with multiple details in
the background or in images whose background (or foreground, depending on the location
of blotches) is darker. But nonetheless, they’re still there and you find them very
annoying. So, why do these darker spots on photos appear? Is something wrong with your
camera?
Relax now, there’s nothing wrong with your camera. The main culprit for the blotches and
dark spots is dust on the image sensor. Although manufacturers are working on cameras
that will take care of this problem themselves, and a few of them are present on the market
at this moment, it doesn’t mean we shouldn’t do anything ourselves. A Major part of
camera maintenance is ensuring the image sensor is in optimal condition. Below, you can
see some useful tips and tricks on how to prevent blotchiness and dark spots:
• When changing lenses, hold your camera upside down, bearing in mind the
opening should face down. This way, dust can’t fall into your camera.
• Try to avoid changing camera lenses in harsh environments, e.g. when it’s too
dusty and windy, around water, and so on. If you have to change your lenses in the
middle of the shoot, go back to your car and change them there.
• Be cautious when cleaning the image sensor. You can use a brush for dry
cleaning, and there’s also solvent cleaning. However, you can’t use just about any
product you find. Ideally, you should consult the provider where you bought the
camera for cleaning tips or check whether the manufacturer included it into the
user’s manual.

When changing lenses, make sure the new one is ready before you attach it. This way,
your camera will be open only for a short period of time; thus, preventing dust and
 other particles from entering.

• Before changing lenses, turn off your camera entirely. Sensors with the electric
charge can only attract dust, and it’s not something you want.
• If you’re not sure whether the image sensor is dirty, you can easily find out
before you start taking photos again. Just take a photo with small aperture of a
completely white wall. If there are spots and blotchiness, your image sensor is
dirty. If the photo turns out to be spotless, there’s nothing there. Easy!

TIP 2: Cleaning DSLR lens

There comes the time when you might notice tiny smudges. First of all, they’re annoying,
especially if you’re a perfectionist. And secondly, these smudges can negatively affect the
quality of the photos you take. To avoid this unfortunate scenario, you should pay extra
attention to cleaning the lenses. In fact, lens maintenance should be a standard part of the
camera maintenance process. It’s very important to clean a DSLR lens gently and
carefully.
Before you see how to clean the lens, you should make sure you only clean it when it’s
dirty. You shouldn’t clean the lens on a daily basis because it can cause damage and harm
the quality of your photos. When the time comes to clean your camera’s lens, here’s what
you should do:

• Consider Skylight or a UV filter
This is something that all DSLR camera owners should think about. Regardless of how
many lenses you own, whether one or more of them, you should make sure each one has a
skylight or a UV filter. You can buy these filters in stores that provide camera equipment
or you can order them online. You’re probably wondering why do you really need this
filter and how is it related to cleaning lenses. The primary purpose of these filters isn’t
only to cut out UV light. They also protect your lens from scratches and other types of
damage. And here’s the best part; when it’s time to clean, you’re going to clean the filter
instead, not the lens itself. With that being said, you should think thoroughly before
purchasing a filter. They come in different quality levels, meaning if you have a high-
quality lens, you shouldn’t purchase a low-quality filter.
• Cleaning fluid for lens
You can’t take just about any cleaning fluid or solvent and clean the lens. Ideally, you
should go to a camera store (or online providers) and purchase a lens-cleaning fluid that is
specially formulated for this demanding task. This fluid will easily remove dust,
fingertips, debris, and other particles from the lens without making it smudgy or ruined
with streaks.
One of the most common mistakes in camera maintenance is using too much cleaning
fluid. In reality, you don’t really need too much. In fact, just a drop or two is enough. Dab
a gentle cleaning tissue in a drop or two of this fluid and start cleaning gently in circular
motions. Make sure the lens cleaning fluid is always applied to a tissue or other type of
cloth first, not directly onto the lens itself.
You can also use the standard “glasses cleaning method” when you breathe onto the lens
and gently clean it. Most photographers use the combination of these two approaches for a
spotless lens.
• Lens cleaning tissues/cleaning cloth
As mentioned above, you shouldn’t apply the cleaning fluid directly onto a lens. But, this
doesn’t mean you can use the “regular” facial tissues, toilet paper, or anything else that’s
soft and tissue-like. Why? It’s because they’re overly rough! You should stick to lens
tissues, which are thin and are able to remove impurities without scratching the lens.
Remember, you shouldn’t use the same tissue again. Once you’re done, throw it in the bin.
If you don’t really like buying tissues that are meant for one use only, you can always opt
for their alternative – a microfiber cleaning cloth. They are washable and able to remove
oils and dust, but they’re also gentle at the same time. In case you decide to purchase one
of these cloths, make sure you wash them thoroughly.
• Blowers and brushes
Just like other equipment for DSLR cameras, you can buy blowers in stores and online.
They’re excellent for cleaning lenses, but before you use it on the lens, squeeze the blower
a few times first to remove dust that is usually trapped inside.
A brush is excellent for cleaning the lens, but make sure you buy the one with soft and fine
hair. Brushes with brittle and harsh hair could only damage the lens.
All cleaning tools mentioned above are available in all camera equipment stores, and
they’re quite inexpensive. Don’t underestimate their importance. High-quality photos need
a fully functional and well-maintained camera.

TIP 3: Avoiding the most common DSLR camera dangers

Dirty image sensors and lenses aren’t the only problems you should keep at bay. There are
many dangers lurking around and posing a huge threat to your camera. Is there any way to
avoid them? Naturally! In order to avoid them, you just have to know what they are.
Here’s the list of the most common dangers that can have a big impact on your camera:

• Drops and bumps
One of the biggest dangers for DSLR cameras, and any other cameras, comes in the form
of drops and bumps into hard objects. Just because most cameras come with shock-proof
casings, it doesn’t mean you can’t take some precautionary measures. For example, you
can invest in a quality padded camera bag. Also, be extra careful where you place the
camera, and avoid letting other people (who don’t know much about cameras) use it.
• Insect repellent and sunscreen
Yes, products you use to protect yourself, such as insect repellent and sunscreen can harm
your camera. But how? Insect repellents usually contain chemicals while sunscreens are
oily. You don’t really want your camera to get in touch with these compounds because
they can impair the sensitive parts of your device. There’s an easy way to avoid this
situation; wash your hands in clean water after applying insect repellent and sunscreen.
Although it might seem convenient for you to carry sunscreen or insect repellent in the
camera bag, don’t do that. You’d have to be cautious and make sure they don’t spill, and
it’s definitely not worth the risk.
• Moisture
Moisture can end your camera’s life, which is why you should be extra careful that your
DSLR camera doesn’t get in contact with water. For this, don’t place the camera near any
kind of liquid, use a neck strap or the camera’s wrist strap to keep your device out of
water. There’s another equally annoying enemy of all cameras – condensation. It’s more
pronounced when you’re taking your camera from one temperate climate to another, e.g. a
humid vs. air-conditioned environment. To avoid this silent attacker of the camera, you
should use the silica gel pack. How it works? Silica gel packs absorb the moisture that gets
into your camera bag; thus, preventing condensation.
Chapter 2: Tips for Composition

One of the most important skills that any photographer should learn is composition. Most
beginners make similar mistakes. When they want to learn how to take great photos with
their DSLR camera, they usually skip the basics. However, knowing how to adjust the
composition can do wonders for your photos.
Why is composition important?
Composition is important due to a wide array of reasons, including the following:
• Images stand out – did you ever think about how many photos are posted
online every day? Thousands of them or maybe millions! Also, did you ever take
time to think what makes some photos stand out and grab a viewer’s attention?
How come some photos are ignored while other images get all the glory? It’s
usually because the photographers behind them are wise and use everything their
camera has to offer in order to make their photos stand out instantly. Composition
can help you with that. Composition techniques are the ones that get all the
attention and “draw someone in.”
• Send a message – the importance of composition goes beyond making images
stand out and seem prettier; it also helps you send a message to the viewer of the
image.
• Everything can fit into a great photo – composition helps you turn everything
around you into a photography masterpiece. It allows you to see and use the
potential from everything, even a simple leaf on the ground. Basically, it alters the
way you perceive the world around you because you start observing everything
from an artistic perspective.
• Control – the quality of your images depends on the ability to take full control
of the photo-taking process, which also includes composition. This way, you get to
develop your own unique style.
• It makes post-processing a lot easier – after you take a photo or many of them,
the next step is to open your favorite software, upload images, and start post-
processing to enhance their quality. Adjusting composition makes this step
significantly easier. You’ll be amazed at how a small of a change can mean a lot.
• Keep more photos – photographers, both rookies and experienced ones, rarely
take a single photo and call it a day. The truth is, you take numerous photos, and
later decide whether you’re going to keep them or not. But, you usually end up
deleting most of them, and only a few of them are labeled as “keepers.”
Composition can add a whole new dimension to your photos, and make sure you
keep more images than you delete.
• It gives a professional look – not every person with a DSLR camera is a
professional, but composition can help you capture your images like a pro.
 • It shows a personality – every photo needs a personality; that’s how you make
other people understand the image, and composition adds that personality.
Now that you know why it’s important to pay attention to composition, here are a few tips
that will help you:

TIP 4: Rule of thirds

This is without a doubt the most famous method of composition in photography. Let’s put
it this way; if you were to join some photography class, this would be one of the very first
lessons to learn.
The best way to understand this rule is to imagine you’re breaking a photo into thirds both
vertically and horizontally making nine equal parts.

The rule suggests that placing points of interest in the intersections or along the lines will
make your image seem more balanced.

TIP 5: Using focal points

Let’s say you want to take a photo of a beautiful tree while camping. Obviously, the tree
should be the focal point, and that’s your intention. But, the problem is we rarely ask
ourselves whether our preferred object (or subject) really is the focal point of the photo.
Here’s how to improve the focal point in your image:
• Place the focal point (subject of your photo) in a prominent position. To do this,
the rule of thirds comes handy.
• Use Depth of field to blur out the foreground or background to make your
subject stand out.
• Experiment with a slower shutter speed in case the subject of the photo is
standing still and some things in the surroundings are moving.
• The focal point should be large.


TIP 6: Horizon line

Make sure the horizon line is positioned below or above the middle of the frame; it
shouldn’t be at the very center of the photo. Every rule comes with an exception and so
does this. Here, the exception would be when shooting reflections. In this case, placing the
horizon at the center of the photo creates elements at the top and bottom of the picture.

TIP 7: Lean in the frame

When you’re taking a photo of animals or people, it’s ideal to have them look directly into
the frame. Also, if you’re taking a photo of objects or people in motion, you should leave
more space on the side of the frame where the subject’s action is headed. This makes the
image looks more realistic and natural.
Chapter 3: Taking Dreamy Photos of Water

There’s something special about nature photography that both experienced photographers
and beginners find extremely attractive. Regardless of the type of photography you love,
it’s impossible to resist a breathtaking view of a clean, fast, and vibrant river. It’s needless
to mention the beauty of waterfalls that simply have to be captured. Taking dreamy photos
of water goes beyond taking a random photo and hoping it looks “nice”. You can use the
tremendous potential of your DSLR camera to add an extra dramatic feeling to the entire
picture.

TIP 8: Taking creative photos of water

When taking photos of moving objects, most people usually think freezing the entire
action will yield the best results. That isn’t entirely accurate! Although the rule can work
pretty well in some instances, it doesn’t apply to all situations. In fact, some photos may
seem dull and completely lifeless.

The photo above was captured with the automatic settings on my camera. As you can see,
the quick exposure only managed to make the river seem frozen, static, and quite lifeless.
Rivers depict flow and liveliness, so there has to be some other approach, right? Of
course! With just a few simple adjustments, you can take another photo of the same river
and make it seem a thousand times better. How? First, you have to turn the mode dial to S
in order to switch your DSLR device to a Shutter Priority mode.
Ideally, you should use the shutter speed that is a bit slower than the one you mostly use,
e.g. 1/30 is perfectly fine. That should be enough, but you should check to see whether the
water (river, waves on the ocean, or waterfall) is blurred enough.
What happens if it’s not blurred enough? In that case, you should opt for slower shutter
speed selections, such as 1/8 or 1/15. In order to avoid camera shake, it’s highly
recommended to use an anti-shake system or a tripod.
When you adjust shutter speed, you don’t have to make additional adjustments for the
aperture because your device will set it up for you. But, if you see the f-numbers flashing,
it indicates that your device isn’t able to balance the shot.
Once you take your photo and you’re satisfied with the results, make sure you return the
mode dial back to Program or Auto mode.
Here’s the photo I took after I made the adjustments written above:

As you can see on the image above, the water doesn’t look frozen. Instead, it is dramatic
and the picture perfectly represents its constant flow in a dramatic way. Now, you can add
or reduce the dramatic feel by altering shutter speed.
Chapter 4: How to Get Better Sharpness and Autofocus in Images?

One of the biggest obstacles for a vast majority of DSLR beginners is mastering the
autofocus. It’s because AF is usually perceived as highly complex plus all those tutorials
you can find online aren’t really helpful, as authors usually demonstrate their workflow,
but don’t discuss how to do it or why you should. Ideally, you should always strive to
make sure your photos have consistent focus and sharpness in order to enhance every
single detail on the image.
There’s also a hidden trap when you think you know your DSLR device quite well and
you’re convinced you’re doing the right thing. Your photos seem pretty fine on the
camera, but once you upload them to your computer, they seem kind of soft and dull.
Luckily, with a few simple adjustments, you can get sharper images that will take
someone’s breath away.

TIP 9: Don’t trust the viewfinder only; trust the camera’s focus
It is a very common mistake to rely on your viewfinder only. Why? It’s because unless
you have some powerful focus screen, your DSLR device simply isn’t created to show the
precise focus in its viewfinder. The reason for this isn’t some sort of manufacturer’s error.
It is because consumers usually want brighter viewfinders while the dimmer ones are more
useful. Therefore, the most useful tip you should know about making your images sharper
is to avoid relying on your viewfinder only.
Okay, so you can’t actually trust the viewfinder only, but you can completely trust your
camera when it comes to focus. Believe it or not, you really can adjust the perfect focus on
your device. If you’re worried about the difference between a photo on your camera and
one on your computer, here are a few tips to avoid that:
• Determine the level of zoom that represents the actual size of the image on the
computer. In fact, most DSLR cameras nowadays use the term actual size; thus,
making this job easier.
• Increase the in-camera sharpening. If you’re working with RAW files, then
increase it all the way up, but return it to its standard value if taking JPG files or
recording videos. Why? It’s because increasing in-camera sharpening will ruin
your JPG photos while RAW photos will be breathtaking.
• Use a tripod and ensure the focus is in the same “domain” as some object that
doesn’t move, e.g. a trunk of a tree in the nearby park. Then, manually set up focus
while you’re clicking photos. Around f/1.4 and f/2.8, you’ll get to see a definite
perfect focus point. Why is this important? It’s important because this move will
help you immediately spot sharp photos, as well as images that are on the softer
side.


TIP 10: Look for 1-click 100% zoom for image playback
First, check whether your DSLR camera comes with the 1-click 100% zoom
customization for image playback. If so, you should definitely use it. So, what does it do?
It’s easy; this option a single click of the button instantly shows 100% magnification that
will allow you to see whether the image is sharp enough. Yes, with this option, you can
avoid zooming in constantly just to check sharpness. However, if your device doesn’t
come with this option, you just have to zoom. It’s always important to enlarge the photo
you take in order to ensure the sharpness works for you.

TIP 11: Master focus modes

Don’t stick with one focus mode and, most importantly, you shouldn’t always rely on auto
modes that allow your camera to decide which mode it will use. Ideally, you should
experiment with both single and continuous focus on objects, and in environments that
don’t move at all, move slightly, or move constantly. Use both focus modes to shoot
different types of images. This way, you’ll easily master focus modes, build your own
style, and you’ll easily determine which focus mode you’re going to use in different
situations. You’re probably going to find out that single mode usually works in situations
when you’re distant from the subject that is still; other situations usually call for
continuous mode.

TIP 12: Determine your customizations and preferences for camera control
Most DSLR camera owners use the shutter release button to focus, and it does seem kind
of a logical way to do it. But, this approach will only prove to be fruitful if you’re using
single focus and recompose + focus. It will also work if you constantly move the focus
point, which isn’t always practical.
There is a very useful technique that you can use to simplify things and get sharpened and
focused images at all times. For example, you can use the AF-ON focus customization,
which is also known as thumb focus and back-button focus. This useful method moves the
AF to the back of your DSLR camera; thus, enabling your thumb to operate it only. At
first, it might seem to you a bit weird, but once you get used to it, you’ll realize how
simple it is, and it definitely makes the process easier. Due to the fact the camera’s shutter
doesn’t perform AF anymore, you are free to capture images any time you want without
placing the focus point at the same moment you click to take a photo.
Chapter 5: Setting Aperture for Portraits

Portrait photos are inevitable. Even if you’re not into portrait photography professionally,
the chances are high you’ll be asked to (or you’ll be willing to do it yourself) to take
photos of your friends, family members, or simply to create never-ending memories of
some occasion or special event. When it comes to portrait photos, you shouldn’t go with
the intention to capture a photo and edit it in Photoshop or any other software you use.
You should always strive to take a high-quality photo that won’t need much editing. With
that being said, aperture can make or break your portraits. This is the reason that Chapter
5 will show you how adjust aperture to get perfect portraits, which won’t need too much
post-processing.

TIP 13: Adjusting aperture

The golden rule of the portrait-taking process is slightly isolating the person and gently
blurring the background in order to make that particular person center and become the
primary focus of the portrait.
Generally, if you’re taking a portrait of one person, then you can safely use the lowest
aperture value that your DSLR camera allows. In most cases, it’s f/2.8.
You should bear in mind that some lenses have different values; this is why it’s always
useful to take several photos with different values and use the one that you assume is the
best for that specific type of photo; in this case, a portrait.
When two to four people are in the portrait, you can freely adjust the aperture to the value
of f/4. On the other hand, if the portrait contains more than four people, e.g. a big family
group photo, you can set the aperture to f/5.6.
So, why are these different aperture values necessary? It is because you should make sure
that people who are in the portrait are always sharp. For example, if you’re using the
lowest aperture values for a group portrait, not everyone’s faces and facial features will be
crystal-clear and sharp. This takes away the quality, and you’ll end up spending hours on
editing the image.
Now, you’re probably wondering “why can’t I just adjust to high aperture value and get it
over with?” It’s because the higher the aperture value, the more detail in your photo.
When the portrait is one or only a few people, an increased amount of details would take
away the focus from their faces. Plus, it would also mean that wrinkles, pimples,
blemishes, age spots, and other “imperfections” would be extremely pronounced.
A good rule of thumb is to strive for sharper eyes while obtaining softer skin and other
areas to establish balance in the portrait just like on photo below:
Chapter 6: Shooting Fast with a DSLR Camera

You see sports photos every day. There are also photos of races, people in motion, kids
running, etc. All these photos were taken with a photographer’s “good eye” to capture
wonderful moments and the adjustments he or she made on their camera. It’s not like
soccer players will simply stop in front of a goal to let sports photographers capture their
photos. And, let’s face it; taking photos of people and objects in motion is incredibly fun,
but how to take a perfect photo when shooting fast? Believe it or not, different
photographers will get different photos of some object in motion even if they were lined
up next to each other. Why? This is exactly one of the greatest advantages of a DSLR
camera. There are multiple techniques to perform different actions, and shooting fast is no
exception. This chapter will show you how to use your DSLR camera to shoot fast, and
take photos of people and objects in motion like a pro. And, it’s easier than you think!

TIP 14: Shooting fast in aperture mode

In order to take these types of photos in the aperture mode, you should opt for the lowest
value your DSLR camera allows. Why? It’s because the lower values of f-numbers, the
faster the camera’s shooting speed. Then, take a few photos just to test whether you like
the result. If you don’t like the photo and realize the camera isn’t shooting fast enough to
capture a person or object you want, then go ahead to increase the value of ISO by 100 at a
time until you are satisfied with the shooting speed.

TIP 15: Shooting fast in shutter priority

When working with shutter priority, you are allowed to adjust the speed while your
camera automatically sets the aperture. Basically, the faster the shutter priority, the lower
the aperture and vice versa. You should bear in mind that every DSLR camera has its own
limits of aperture value, and when setting shutter priority calls for a lower aperture value,
you’ll have to adjust the ISO in order to avoid darkening in the photo. While some
cameras adjust the ISO automatically, others do not have this option.
Let’s take a moving car for example; if you set the fast 1/800th of a second speed on
shutter priority, the aperture value will automatically go to its lowest, and you’ll notice
your image is kind of dark. This means you have to start increasing the value of ISO until
you get the exposure you like.

 TIP 16: Shooting fast in Programmed Auto mode
Programmed Auto mode or simply mode P is very useful. It gives you the opportunity to
adjust the value of ISO while your DSLR camera makes automatic adjustments of shutter
speed and the aperture. Basically, when shooting fast in mode P, all you have to do is
make sure you adjust the adequate value of ISO that you believe is fast enough to take the
photo you want. For example, higher ISO values indicate faster shooting, but these high
values also mean more grain in the images. Therefore, take time to experiment with values
to get the image you’ll be happy with.

TIP 17: Shooting fast in manual mode

When you use manual mode, the camera doesn’t adjust automatically anything for you.
You are the one who has to adjust everything by yourself; hence, the name. When you are
about to capture an action shot in manual mode, your number one priority should be
adjusting shutter speed. The value of this setting depends only on the subjects you want to
capture, as different people and objects move at different speeds. A good rule of thumb is
adjusting the shutter speed to 1/400th of a second to start. This is usually applicable to
most subjects. However, if you’re taking a photo of some very fast object, e.g. a motorbike
or a fast and furious car, then a shutter speed of 1/1300 seconds will do the trick.
Now that you have adjusted the shutter speed, you’re not ready to take your photo just yet.
You have to determine a priority between aperture and ISO. The priority is adjusting prior
to the remaining setting. Once you’re happy with the adjustments you made, you are ready
to shoot fast.
Chapter 7: Animal Photography Tips

Who doesn’t like animals? They are cute, powerful, and they look excellent in photos.
One of the most frequently asked questions about DSLR photography is how to take
photos of animals. After all, most people have pets, visit ZOO’s, or they like spending
time in nature and want to capture wonderful animal life in various regions. That’s why
the main objective of this chapter is to show you how to easily take photos of animals.

TIP 18: Know which lens to use

As you already know, the type of lens you use is extremely important. When taking photos
of animals, it’s highly recommended to use a Telephoto Zoom Lens because it allows you
to easily zoom in or out according to the movement of animals. Using prime lenses isn’t
always practical because in this case, you have to come closer to an animal or go further
away. This way, you disturb your pet or some other animal you want to take a photo of,
and you don’t get to take the image you want.
Generally, if you’re taking photos of animals in ZOO’s, pets, or maybe birds in the park,
and other animals that are quite close, you will need the lens extending from 70 to 300mm
focal length.
Beginners who start using Telephoto Zoom Lens (and DSLR cameras) are usually
disappointed when they notice their image doesn’t have the reach they expected. After all,
all those photos of animals you see online do have that reach; the animals are very close.
That’s because those images are usually cropped in order to fit online viewing. Start with
300mm and when you get enough practice, upgrade the lens to 400mm, which will allow
you to crop images with better quality and more detail.
But, what if I have a 200mm lens? In this case, instead of buying a new lens, you can use
extenders, but bear in mind the sharpness in photos taken with extenders will always be
smaller than in images taken without these accessories. On the other hand, if you’re
purchasing an extender, make sure it is compatible with the autofocus system of your lens.

TIP 19: Adjusting the camera settings for photos of animals

When taking photos of animals, you usually need two different camera settings:
• Aperture priority if the animal isn’t moving or if the animal is in the ZOO. This
setting allows you to adjust how much of the background and the animal itself
you’d like to see in sharp focus. If you are using a 300mm focal length lens, you
can set the aperture to f/5.6 while a 400mm lens can do with f/8.
 • Shutter priority if animal is moving. Why? It’s because this setting allows you
to choose the speed your DSLR camera will take each time you click. Naturally,
different animals in motion require different values, such as:
Birds in flight: 1/1000th of a second
Pets: 1/60th of a second
Experiment with values until you are happy with the results.
Make sure the ISO value doesn’t make the animals seem hazy. Also, when taking photos
of your pets, it’s always useful to get their attention for a truly professional image.

TIP 20: Taking photos of ZOO animals

Use the adjustment settings described above to take photos of ZOO animals in different
situations; stationary or moving. But, here are a few extra tips that will help you take ZOO
animal photos like a pro:
• Go to the ZOO’s official website or take a brochure and get informed about the
timeframes when animals are getting fed. Then, show up 15 minutes earlier, and
you’ll see that’s usually the time when animals in the ZOO are very active, which
is perfect for an action shot. After they eat, animals usually like to sleep, and it’s
definitely not the right time to take photos of them.
• If you want to capture a photo wherein the animal is staring directly into your
camera, then you have to be patient, but make sure you have adjusted the camera
properly.
Chapter 8: Taking Photos of People Jumping

Okay, it’s time to confess – how many times have you tried to capture a photo of someone
jumping and failed miserably? This is actually easier than it seems.

TIP 21: Settings for single-person or group jumps

In order to take a photo of one person jumping, you should work in shutter priority. This
will allow you to focus on the speed of the shot while, as you already know, your DSLR
camera will adjust everything else. For a one-person jump shot, the speed of 1/400th is
usually sufficient.
On the other hand, when taking a photo wherein a group of people is seen jumping, you
should concentrate on the aperture priority while still bearing in mind the shutter speed.
You’re probably wondering why this photo involves paying special attention to aperture.
It’s because when taking a photo of a group of people, you want all of them to be
sharpened, not just one. You can set the aperture around f/5.6., and then follow the
instructions below:
• Before people start jumping, you should press the shutter button halfway down
while looking through the viewfinder. When you do this, you’ll see that settings of
the camera located on the edges of the screen light up. Pay attention to the
numbers you see, especially the shutter speed. If the shutter speed is 1/400th of a
second or even faster, you can shoot. If not, you should increase the value of ISO.
• You won’t have enough time to manually adjust the focus, which is why you
should opt for autofocus.
• Set the camera to the continuous shooting, which will allow taking multiple
photos as long as you’re holding the shutter button.
• Pre-focus before people jump, but make sure that one person (or more of them)
don’t change their distance if they keep jumping up and down continuously.
• Don’t jump along with a jumper; make sure the camera is steady at one place
and don’t zoom. Otherwise, someone’s head might be cut off in the image.
This is the sample photo:
Chapter 9: Useful Exposure Tips for Nature Photography

Exposure is considered the heart of your photography skills. Dewitt Jones, a National
Geographic photographer, said that the idea and good concept of a photo don’t really
mean anything if there’s no proper technique. The exposure goes beyond determining how
dark or light some tones on the photos will be. It determines the overall look of the photo,
and creates the vibe you want to send to viewers. Since exposure is highly important, and
nature photography poses as one of the most popular types of photography, this chapter
will teach you how to adjust exposure to take lovely photos.

TIP 22: Flower gardens exposure tips

Let’s say you’re about to take a photo of beautiful flowers. Playing with exposure can
improve your photo immediately, and the chances are high you won’t have to edit it in
Photoshop.
Ideally, you should take this type of photo in manual mode, so you can adjust the settings
yourself according to your liking. For flowers, especially when they’re close, the aperture
value of f/11 is sufficient. Focus on the green leaves of the flowers, and underexpose them
by 2/3. Then, focus on the flower and its vibrant color, and take the shot without re-
exposing. The result will be a photo with vibrant colors and ideal balance between shade
and light as seen below.

Other adjustments I made are:

• Shutter speed: 1/200
• ISO speed: 200
 • Focal length: 100mm

TIP 23: Exposure tips for black objects

The chances are high you will come across some black or dark object in nature that you’d
like to capture with your camera, e.g. a black bird. This is usually where most people
make mistakes because working with black objects is tricky; it’s easy to lose detail. In this
case, taking the exposure on something green works perfectly with a black subject. For
example, take the exposure of nearby grass and underexpose it by 2/3. Aperture should be
set around f/5.6 while the value of ISO is 400. Also, make sure you work in manual mode.
Chapter 10: Capturing silhouettes

How many times have you seen a silhouette photo and thought it was done in some photo-
editing software? But, did you know you can capture a silhouette easily, and all you need
is your DSLR camera? This chapter will show you how to create dramatic photos and
improve your photography skills.

TIP 24: Photographing silhouettes

Silhouettes are mysterious, and they most certainly give your photo a dramatic effect.
First, you should start by setting your DSLR camera to partial, spot, or center-weighted
metering. Make sure the flash is turned off, and switch to mode P. If you stay in the
automatic mode, then the automatic flash could still go off. The next thing to do is point
the camera metering toward a brighter part of the skin, NOT the sun, and press the shutter
button halfway down in order to take the exposure reading. Using the AE-L button on
your camera, lock the given exposure, and then focus on the subject or object you want to
capture. Take the photo. Below, you can see the photo I took:

The values I used are:

• ISO speed: 100
• Exposure: 1/1000
• Focal length: 66mm
• Aperture: f/22
These values might also work for you, but it all depends on the type of silhouette you want
to photograph: person, object, animal, etc. Experiment with values and see what works
best for your image.
Chapter 11: Beach Photography Tips

The summer is here and it usually includes going to a beach. But, you don’t want to
sunbathe at all times; you want to take a perfect beach photo. In order to get that photo,
you should be up early, as these types of images are usually the best when they’re captured
in the early morning when the beach isn’t crowded. Then, use the following tips to take
perfectly beachy photos:

TIP 25: Use the bracketing feature

Although automatic mode is practical and very useful in some situations, you shouldn’t
strive to use it all times, such as when taking beach photos. Most photographers that take
beach images usually complain that they don’t get the results they want because the photos
are overly exposed or underexposed. This happens because your DSLR camera sets the
exposure on the white sand; thus, resulting in a grayish or off-white color. To get the best
out of your beach photo, use the perks of the bracketing feature on your camera. Check the
user’s manual in order to find out whether your camera has it; most of them do! Basically,
the bracketing feature takes three photos in a row, but with different exposures.
Choose the feature that you regard as the best. You can also try this useful trick: expose on
the reflection of the ocean’s edge and take the photo of the sand. This will create a
realistic, sandy color.

TIP 26: Pay attention to horizon/polarizing filter

Beach photos are quite similar to landscape images in the sense that horizons are
extremely important. A crooked horizon will not only annoy you, but will impair the
overall quality of the photo. This will also prevent you from spending too much time on
trying to fix this on the photo-editing software. Whenever you can avoid post-processing
by adjusting settings on your camera, do it. This way, you’ll have to edit certain portions
of the photo or nothing at all.
To create a more dramatic effect on the beach photo, use the polarizing filter. This is
something that professional beach photographers do to make oceans and the sky seem
bluer.

TIP 27: Use the flash to take photos of people

How many times have you taken a photo of someone only to notice shadows on their
face? This takes away the quality of the photo, and even your subject doesn’t appreciate
those shadows. This particularly happens on a hot, bright day. A good way to avoid this is
to use the flash. Yes, even in daylight! When you use flash to capture a photo of someone
on the beach, it will eliminate shadows from their face. It’s easy.
Chapter 12: Capturing a Sunrise

The first volume showed you how to take a perfect photo of a sunset, but a sunrise is
equally beautiful. There’s something special about the sun rising, dawn, new day, and new
opportunities. That’s why the final chapter of this book will show you how easy it is to
take a photo of a perfect sunrise.

TIP 28: The basics for sunrise photos

Here are the basic tips that you simply have to bear in mind to take perfect sunrise photos:
• Know exactly where the sun rises, i.e. the exact spot. When the sun starts
rising, it’s already too late to reposition your camera.
• Know the exact time the sun is about to rise. To do so, you can either Google
the sunrise timeframe, download an app, or buy a local newspaper. You’ll have to
work with slow shutter speeds, meaning you should use a tripod. If you’re
wondering why you have to work with a slow shutter speed – it’s because of low-
light conditions.
• The shutter speed usually used for taking photos of sunrises is 1/8th of a second
or even slower depending on the available values on your camera.
• If you want deeper and richer colors and shades of yellows, oranges, and reds,
then you have to underexpose the shot.
• Use a wide angle lens to get a “small sun” in the photo, but if you want the sun
to appear bigger, you should opt for a Telephoto Zoom Lens.
• The sun shouldn’t be at the very center of the frame because it would disturb
the composition.

TIP 29: Adjusting horizon

Ideally, the horizon shouldn’t be placed at the very center of the frame just like the sun. In
case there’s a lot of light or color in the sky, you should ensure the area takes up to 2/3 of
the composition. But, if there’s a lot of color and light in the foreground, then the
foreground portion should take up to 2/3 of the composition.

TIP 30: No filters!

You might feel tempted to use filters in order to improve your image, but it’s not
necessary. In fact, you should remove all filters when your camera is directed toward the
sun. Why? It’s because the sun would look like a silhouette or a ghost. This would
completely ruin your photo and it’s not worth it! On the other hand, a polarizing filter
poses as some sort of a grey zone; they’re mostly used to create a more colorful sky in
instances when the sun is to the left or right of your position. In most cases, you don’t
really need it and it’s advised to remove this filter as well.
 Before You Go!

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Conclusion

Thank you again for downloading this book!
I hope this book was able to help you to improve your photography skills, and learn how
to work with a DSLR camera easily. The book featured useful tips and tricks that every
DSLR camera owner should know. You also had the opportunity to find out how to easily
take photos you always wanted, such as people jumping, people in motion, animals, and
so on.
The next step is to take your DSLR camera and start practicing everything you have read
in this book. Always bear in mind that practice and experimenting with different settings
and values is the best way to create high-quality photos and build your own style.
Finally, if you enjoyed this book, then I’d like to ask you for a favor. Would you be kind
enough to leave a review for this book on Amazon? It’d be greatly appreciated!

Thank you and good luck!