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GARMENTS WET
PROCESSING (GWP)
INTRODUCTION TO GWP
1) SECTIONS
LOCAL ABRASION
1. DRY ABRASION
2) WHISKERS
4) 5LASER SECTION
2. WET ABRASION
1) PP SPRAY
2) RESIN SPRAY
3) RESIN DIP
4) WRINKLES
WASHING
3. WASHING TYPES
2) BLEACH WASH
3) RANDOM WASH
4) RINSE WASH
5) OVER DYE _
TRIMS ATTACHMENT
RESCREENING
4. PROCESS FLOW
1) TRIMMING
2) QUALITY
3) MEASUREMENT
4) INSPECTION
5) MENDING
6) MENDING VERIFICATION
8) SALVAGING VERIFICATION
SUNDRIES ATTACHMENT
SUNDRIES VERIFICATION
INSPECTION
SHIPMENT
GWP section gives value to the rigid garment. There are four sections in GWP.
In GWP all operations are done to add value to the garment. Wet processing is
responsible for adding beauty to the garment, change look of the garment & bring
about a change to the texture of the fabric.
Garment processing provides garment an identity and exclusive appearance,
different looks, finishing and design can be made.
Sections
The major sections of GWP are:
1. Rigid Inventory
2. Local Abrasion
LOCAL ABRASION
“Local Abrasion includes all those operations which are performed to produce the
fashion effect on garments in order to fulfill the customer needs & requirement”
“Dry abrasion includes the operations which are performed without using
chemicals to produce the abrasive effect on the garments”
It includes the operations:
1. Scraping
2. Whiskers
3. Cable Tie
4. Laser Action
5. Denison Knotting
Scraping
Scraping Tool
The main tool of scraping is:
01.Sand paper
Scraping Types
According to the method used, there are two main types of scraping which are:
1. Horizontal Scraping
2. Vertical Scraping
Horizontal Scraping
“It’s the type of scraping in which abrasive effect on the garments is produce with
horizontal scraping machine”
Horizontal Scraping Types
The horizontal scraping is carried out by two ways which are:
1. Small Part Scraping
2. Half & Full body Scraping
Quality Points
There are three main points of quality which are necessary for scraping &whiskers
1) Shape Variation
2) Wrong Placement
3) Intensity Variation
Corrective Action
These are the main methods of taking a corrective action against the rejection.
1) If the scraping is heavy then put the paper on the scraping area and spray the
remaining area in order to make it light & smooth the intensity of scraping.
2) If the scraping is light then make it heavy by using the following sand paper
( P-120, A-120, P-110, A-110)
“It is the type of scraping in which abrasive effect on garments is produce with
vertical scraping machine”
Whiskers
“Whisker is the combination of lines which is drawn on the specific parts of the
garment by using a specific pattern or template in order to produce the fashion
effect on the garment according to the customer needs & requirement”
Whisker Types
1) Thigh Whiskers
2) Knee Whiskers
3) Panel Whiskers
4) Bottom Whiskers
Whisker Tools
There are five (5) types of whisker tools which are:
1) Mold
It is the main tool used for making whiskers. It is the template which contains the
same pattern of whiskers which are required on the garment. Garments are put on it
so that the required area of garment on which whisker operation is to be carried out
should be on the pattern.
2) Roll Whiskers
They are made by rolling of sand paper in 4x4 sizes.
3) Manual Strip
Quality Points
There are three main points of quality which are necessary for whisker operation
1) Shape Variation
2) Wrong Placement
3) Intensity Variation
Corrective Action
These are the main methods of taking a corrective action against the rejection.
1) If the scraping is heavy then put the paper on the scraping area and spray the
remaining area in order to make it light & smooth the intensity of scraping.
2) If the scraping is light then make it heavy by using the following sand paper
(110,120)
Dennison Knotting
Procedure
The operator pick garment from trolley which is on the left side of the operator. Put
it on his lap and insert the pins and then dispose the garment stand which is on the
right side of the operator.
Laser Section
The laser light is used to produce the abrasive effect on the garment. It performs
the operation of scraping, whiskers, grinding with uniform shade.
Machine Parts
The main parts of laser machine are:
I. Control Panels- These are used to control the operation or functions of the
machine.
II. Laser screen- It shows the output /image of the garment under scraping,
whiskers or grinding operation.
III. Moveable Clamper- It is used to hold the garment for required operation.
IV. Dummy- The garment is wears on it.
V. Foot Presser- It is used to fill & release the air from tubes.
VI. Green Button- It is used to start the operation.
VII. Emergency Button- It is used to aware from the emergency situation.
When required local abrasion operations have been preceded on the cut, the
Receiving Procedure:
Note: Only the complete bundle can move to staging from local abrasion.
Staging Procedure:
To ensure the preparation of a load for tumbling and washing process, bundles are
loaded, stacked on trolleys and sent for processing.
● Staging operator will take a trolley and will load garments.
● Operator will ensure the order #, style #. Process #, cut # and bundle #
before making a load.
● Load should make of weight 110 Kg to 152 Kg, as per wash.
● Load will be made at weighting balance plate.
● An identification card will be prepared and attached with every load.
● The colour of card may change for every new wash.
● Wash #, batch #, cut #, bundle #; size, style and quantity of bundles in a
TUMBLING:
BRAUN TUMBLER:
PARTS OF MACHINE:
STEP # 1:
Filling of water : 120 gallons
Addition of any detergent : soaping agent
Timing : 03 minutes
STEP # 2:
Alarm ringing
STEP # 3:
DESIZING
STEP # 5:
RINSE
STEP # 6:
Draining of water
STEP # 7:
Alarm ringing
STEP # 8:
ABRASION
Water : 120 gallons
Temperature : 145 F
STEP # 9
Draining of water
STEP # 10:
RINSE
STEP # 11:
Draining of water
STEP # 12:
RINSE
STEP # 13:
Extraction
Time : 03 minutes.
STEP # 14:
Unloading
STONE WASH
Wash# 1002
Wash # 6261
Load= 20 Kg
During tumbling process, stones were added in garments to get shade (abrasion).
De-Rocker is used to separate the garments from stones. Two operators get the
trolley and place with the machine. De-rocking procedure is given below….
● Operators should get garments from trolley and will left to the opening end
of De-rocker.
WASHER
TONELLO WASHER:
WASHER PROGRAME # 05
STEP # 01 RINSE
STEP # 2
Draining of water
STEP # 3: BLEACHING
Temperature : 130 F
Time : 8 minutes
STEP # 5:
Draining of water
STEP # 6: RINSE
STEP # 7:
Draining of water
STEP # 8:
Ringing Alarm
STEP # 10:
Draining of water
STEP # 12:
Draining of water
Note:
EXTRACTER:
DRYER:
To dry the garments, extracted garments are received here in drying area. After the
washing and extracting, the garments are sent to drying section from washing
section for dry process.
PROGRAME # 05
SPRAY:
I. KMNO4 SPRAY:
In the KMNO4 spray, the spray of solution of the KMNO4 is used in different
ratios with the addition of different ratios of an ACID, for different washes.
● These upper given ratios are used commonly to make KMNO4 spray on
garments. These different ratios are used for different washes as per
requirement of shade.
Resin spray is used in different ratios with different chemicals as like MAR, MIR
& NKR for different washes to get the result as per requirement. Those washes are
resin dipped which have an effect of spots on the garments if they are resin dipped.
RESIN DIP
After the decreasing of the dip level of a tub, an addition of some more solution is
added in the tub to get the required level.
● Rosoko 3D creaz
● MAR legafinish.
● MIR legefinish.
● NKR legeflex.
WRINKLES:
Wrinkles are made on the garments as per standard given. Wrinkles are made on
the wrinkle machine. This one machine has three heads where three operators can
work at a time.
GRINDING:
Grinding is made on the required washes on the grinding machines as per standard
given.
OVEN:
COMPANY:
SOURCE OF WORKING:
1) NATURAL GASS
2) LPG
1) ELECTRIC BURNER:
It has some capacitors and an electric motor it. When the oven is get on, this burner
creates the electric sparking due to which the incoming gas gets fire.
2) MAIN BURNER:
It is the main burner of the oven. It has a lot of tubes inside it, in which the gas is
burning as like a pool of fire. This heat is sent to inside of oven to get in action.
3) BLOWERS:
It is another main part of the oven. It blows the heat created in the main burner to
inside the body of oven. It pushes the hot air from the main burner to oven through
a pipe of size 10—12 inches.
4) EXAST FANS:
These fans exit the extra heat and carbon particles out from the oven.
Befalls are also the main part of the oven. These are adjusted at front end from
where the garments enter and exit from the oven. These fans pull the hot air and
push to the upper side of the oven, due to which the heat cannot go out from the
entrance and exited point of garments and will not create the difficulty for the
operators during work.
6) CONVAYER SYSTRM:
It is the main system which controls the speed of rotations of garments. It has two
main parts as given below.
7) VIRM GEAR:
It has an electric motor in it which creates the movement in the conveyer chain. It
has small pulleys in it also, which work like gears due to which it is known as virm
gear or gear box.
8) CONVAYER CHAIN:
It is another main part of the conveyer box. It is a chain on which main hangers are
adjusted. Every main hanger has three sub hangers on which three garments can be
hanged for process.
RE-EXTRACTION
After rewash, garments will be re-extracted for drying.
RE-DRY
Re-dry process of garments is done after wash and extraction.
OZONE
Ozone machine gives the sharp and soft looking effect on the garments. This
process is done on the required washes.
SHADE BOOTH
● Shade audit is done to ensure the shade of the garments as per customer
standard.
● In shade audit, wash shade and local abrasion shade is being audited.
● Auditor will pick three or five garments of a bundle and will make their
audit.
● The ok bundles will forward to the WIP area for next process.
● The rejected bundles will be sent back for rewash.
● If the bundle was dark then it will be rewashed to get light shade.
● If the bundle is bluer then it will sent back for Tint again as per requirement.
● After rewash, the ok bundles will be sent to the WIP.
When the bundles are ok for shade as per standard, then they will sent for trimming
(trimming after wash).Here in trimming, cutting of the extra threads takes place. It
is necessary for good look of garments, which is directly affected to good look of
garment and a best way to make more goodwill of company.
NEEDLE DETECTION
WIP WORKING
After drying and sorting, the garments are received in WIP section. Here garments
are separated as per wash, customer and size. Garments are planed here to send to
RESCREENING
All operations in the rescreening area are done to give presentable shape to
garment. Operations sequence of Green Line is:
✓ Trimming
✓ Quality check
✓ Measurement
✓ Vapour press
✓ Inspection
✓ Mending
✓ Mending verification
✓ Salvaging
✓ Salvaging verification
✓ Top press
✓ Sundries
✓ Sundries verification
✓ Online quality
✓ Inspection
✓ Folding Packing
Operation sequence
Procedure:
Procedure:
● Bring trolley to the right side of the operator.
● Put three garments on the table.
● Check waist of the garment.
● Set garment.
● Check length of the garment.
● Check half-length waist.
● Fold garment and dispose.
Method of measurement:
Waist:
Garment is folded from watch pocket in such a way that both the rivets of watch
pocket are joint to gather, measure garment from watch pocket in two steps, from
watch pocket to half of the waist to end. There are two possibilities of waist
whether it is positive or negative.
Length:
Garment length is measurement from 2cm below the crotch centre than straight to
the bottom along the inseam in three steps.
3. Vapour Press:
In vapour press operation air or steam is blown inside the garment. Hot steam
presses the garment and normalizes the stretchiness of garment. Pressure required
depends upon the waist whether is negative or positive.
Head
● Fan blower
● Cooper steamer
● Cylinder pneumatics
● Up/down adjustment with handles
● Waist size regulator
Procedure:
● Check size on bundle Card and adjust waist and inseam clamp of the m/c. as
● Pick up jeans with both hands from waistband side and hang it with the
clamp
● Adjust right bottom in left clamp by pressing foot pedal.
● Adjust left bottom in right clamp by pressing foot pedal.
● M/c activating time for pressing with Steam and Air.
Steam 16 sec
Air 16 sec
● Disengage garment from machine and dispose it on left side trolley.
Note:-
During the Steam and Air Time of pressing in every next garment, Operator will
fold the previous pressed garment face to face from Front side to make required
crease and then dispose it left side on trolley. Coupon signing and dispose trolley
up to the designated area of next.
4. Inspection:
There are ten tables of inspection are present in rescreening area two persons can
work on each table. Inspection is done clockwise. There are twenty one possible
faults which are listed below:
5. Mending:
In mending operation faults found during inspection process are removed or repair.
Inspector inspect the garment and write fault code on slip if found. The whole
bundle moves to mending operation.
Procedure:
● Bring trolley from the designated area up to the left side of machine and take
position.
● Mender collects all faulted garments from trolley and place on right side
empty trolley. (Fixed) one garment on his / her lap.
● Put out rep. slip from back pocket and starts repairing whether by hand
needle or with machine, on described fault and place the fault slip
● Dispose this garment. On back to its original trolley if there is no any extra
fault on its and which is repairable on other machines otherwise place
● if operator have no other trolley for mending and is free of work, he / she
will drag this trolley up to the designated
Note:
Garment quantity for mending in a bundle is not fixed; it may vary from Bundle to
bundle.
6. Mending verification:
The inspector receive the complete bundle OK & not OK after their mending than
he/she again inspect the pieces and if got fault pieces again send to mending
Procedure:
● Bring trolley from the designated area up to the left side of mending
verifier's table and take position.
● verifier collects all faulted garments from trolley and place on right side
empty trolley (fixed) and place the
● pick up one garment, put out rep. slip and start to check the mending ok or
not, enter the fault in paper, fold and dispose the
● Dispose trolley to the designated area for garment quality check on line audit
and come back to the workplace.
7. Salvaging:
After the process of washing there is possibility of shade variation which is
removed by the process of salvaging. Small invisible variation or spots on garment
are removed. China Pencil, marker or chook is used according to the shade.
Procedure:
● Bring trolley from the designated area up to the left side of salvaging table
and take position.
● Salvager collects all faulted garments from trolley and place on left side
empty trolley. ( fixed )
● Pick up one garment for salvaging and put out salvaging repairing slip,
spread garment. On table without folding disturb and salvage. Defective part
of the garment with required textile marker/ pencil. Enter record in register
8. Top Press:
Top front, back and panel below the half leg is pressed by top press machine.
Procedure:
● To bring the trolley, arrange and take position for top pressing.
● Pick one garment and insert jeans in the top presser bed from waist band
side.
● Press left front pocket, rotate, press zipper fly, rotate, press right front pocket
(clockwise rotation) and pull out.
● Dispose garment. Properly to left side trolley.
● Move or dispose trolley towards designated area for next operation.
Manual press:
Garment panels and the areas which are not pressed by top press machine like
facing of the garment is pressed manually.
Procedure:
● Bring trolley from the designated area up to back of stand, waistband
9. Folding:
After top press and manual press operation garment is ready, now it is folded as
required by the customer.
Procedure:
● pick up garment from waist band with right hand and fold garment with front
panels folded inside and place on table as left back panel face up
● Align inseam and out seam of the garment.
● half fold garment by holding waistband with left hand and align with
bottom's end
● Dispose garment on the dispose trolley keeping right back panel with leather
patch facing up.
● Coupon signing and dispose trolley for next operation up to designated area.
It includes the major verification of garment before packing. Major faults are
verified in the process.
Procedure:
● Bring trolley and place to the left side of the packing table.
● Pick the garment, spread on table.
● Cut off cut no. label (if req.), check major fault as per instruction.
● Fold and place right corner on packing table for packing in the box.
11. Packer:
Pack required number of garments in boxes.
Procedure:
● Pick up the bottom of box and place it on packing table.
Procedure:
● Bring trolley and place it to the right side of the quality table.
● collect 05 garments in random and place it on right corner of the garment
quality check table (in position)
● pick up top first garment, spread it on table and check l & S inseam, check
shade according to standard, (5 garments / bundle)
● Dispose this garment back on its original trolley, if found o.k. otherwise
place left side corner of the table.
● Complete documentation and forward the trolley for next operation and
come back to the garment quality check table.