Séc.

XIX
Romantismo
 Principais fontes de pesquisa

• Pinturas
• Filmes de época
• Fotografias ( a partir de 1830,
aproximadamente)
• Pranchas de moda, capas de revistas
 Datas:

• 1800-1814 Império
• 1825-1850 Romantismo
• 1837-1901 Era vitoriana
• 1880 – 1914 Belle époque
 Características:
• Cintura muito fina
• Ênfase no quadril (feminino)
• Para mulheres babados, laços e flores por
toda parte
• Sombrinhas (mulheres) e bengalas (homens)
 MULHERES
• Início do século, roupas com o mesmo corte
do período anterior (regência): cintura alta,
abaixo do busto, porém com tecidos pesados
e luxuosos;
• Meio do século, saias amplas, estruturadas
com crinolina, mangas largas, bufantes;
• Fim do século, estrutura para dar ênfase
somente ao quadril, mangas largas, bufantes,
decote alto.
Madame Bonaparte by Vigée-Lebrun, 1807
Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna by George Dawe, 1822
Woman from Procida with Child by Louis Léopold Robert, 1826
Lady, 1829
Lady and Boy, 1830
Singer Isabella Colbran by Waldmüller or a follower, c 1830
Viennese Couple, 1830s
Viennese Fashion, 1830
Walking and Evening Toilette, 1835
Windsor Castle in Modern Times by Landseer, 1841
Baronne de Rothschild by Ingres,1846
A Symphony (I) by Moritz von Schwind, 1852
A Symphony (II) by Moritz von Schwind, 1852
Princesse de Broglie by Ingres, 1853
1954
c1855
c1855
1858
1859
Crinolinas:
Espartilhos:
Queen Victoria, artist unknown, 1861
Mrs Guthrie by Frederic Leighton, 1866
1867
1868
1868
1868plate
1868
1860’s
1860’s
1860’s
1960’s
Empress Elisabeth of Austria by Franz Xaver
Winterhalter, 1865
Women in the Garden by Monet, 1866
Madame Gaudibert by Monet, 1868
The Sisleys by Pierre Auguste Renoir, 1868
Le Repos, Berthe Morisot in house dress
by Edouard Manet, 1869
La Parisienne in a walking dress,
by Auguste Renoir, early 1870s
1870
1870
Chopin by Albert von Keller, 1873
The Ball on Shipboard by James Tissot, 1873
Too Early by by James Tissot, 1873
Nanà by Edouard Manet, 1877
Paris on a Rainy Day by Gustave Caillebotte,
1877
1877
1877
Mrs White in ball dress, by John S. Sargent, 1883
1880’s
St Martin in the Fields by William Logsdail, 1885
1890’s
1890
Mrs Hammersley in ball dress,
by John S. Sargent, 1892
Skating in Central Park by Walter G. Smith, 1892
1893
Mrs Phelps Stokes dressed sportively,
by John S. Sargent, 1893
Blue and White by Louise Jopling, 1896
1897
1898
1898
1898
Miss Henderson by Waterhouse, 1900
Mrs Thaw and Her Son by Frank Benson, 1900
1900’s
1900
Novo formato do espartilho:
 HOMENS

• - fraques, paletós, sobretudo, casacas. Mais

acinturados e detalhados no início do século,
tornando-se reto e sóbrio pro final.
• Cartola, chapéu-coco.
1814
Beau Brummell, artist unknown
William Maginn by Maclise
Dr William Dunlop by Maclise
1855
1860
1860
1862
Woman's Mission by Hicks, 1863
1870’s
1877
Carolus Duran by Sargent, 1879
1880’s
1891
1900’s
1909
Enquanto isso, no Brasil...
1822
1822
José Bonifácio
D. Pedro I
D. Pedro II
D. Pedro II
E o vento levou...
Moulin Rouge
Adaptações atuais:
Steampunks
Gothic Lolitas
 Links
• http://www.cartes.fsnet.co.uk/date/main.htm fotos
do período vitoriano
• http://www.victorianmaiden.com/main.html loja
japonesa de lolitas
• http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/victorian-clothing-g
como ser um autêntico gentleman vitoriano
• http://www.victorianamagazine.com/jewelry/victorianjewe
jóias vitorianas
• http://www.lacarmina.com/blog/ gothic lolita
• http://community.livejournal.com/steamfashion/
steampunk