Upgrading The C Class AUDIO 20 System w205

5/20/2019 Upgrading The C Class AUDIO 20 System
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Upgrading The C Class AUDIO 20 System
Audio 20 Match DIY Upgrade By Vladarh

Looking for the Burmester audio mod? www.w205audio.wordpress.com
This write up details a DIY upgrade path for the stock Audio20 (Non
Burmester) audio system in the 2015+ Mercedes C Class, designed and installed
by MBWorld member Vladarh. All W205/S205 C Class that did not receive the
upgraded Burmester sound system got the Audio 20 (A20) as standard. As is, the
A20 leaves a lot to be desired. It sounds thin, overly bright and harsh, and
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sorely
To nd outlacks a low end.
more, including how toThis mod
control involves
cookies, see here: DIY
Cookieinstallation
Policy of a compact plug-
and-play multichannel
Close and accept DSP ampli er. A DSP (Digital Signal Processor)
digitizes the audio signal so it can be manipulated for equalization, time
https://w205audio20.wordpress.com 1/14
correction, level and band pass ltering. Speaker upgrades, especially for the
front doors, is also recommended, but the DSP amp is an important rst step.
The A20 system consists of (4) 4″ speakers in the doors and a single 6.5″
Frontbass subwoofer installed in an 8” enclosure located in front of the
passenger footwell, all powered by the head unit manufactured by Mitsubishi
(versus an external amp like the Burmester gets). They are connected to the
head unit (HU in further text) through what is commonly known as a BMW
40-pin connector.
The connector going into the Audio 20 head unit
The connector is the same as in the W204 C class so the cables and adaptors
made for the W204 should work on the W205. The yellow part of the
connector (essentially an ISO integrated into the 40-pin) houses the speaker
connections. There are ve pairs of wires going out of the ISO part. The four
door speakers are connected as in any other four-channel con guration. The
subwoofer
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(sub – violet, FL – green, FR – blue).
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Standard ISO connector
Speaker out connections – grey RL, green FL, violet SUB, blue FR, white RR
To perform the upgrade I decided to install a 5-channel Digital Signal

Processing ampli er Match M 5DSP made by Audiotec Fischer. The main
reasons were its compact size (35 x 85 x 110 mm / 1.34 x 3.35 x 4.33”) and the
fact that the manufacturer also offers a set of plug & play cables tting the
HUndconnector.
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1 x Match M 5DSP ampli er
http://www.audiotec- scher.de/lng/en/match/products/ampli er/m-

5dsp.html
1 x PP ISO cable harness (available in 1.0, 2.2 and 5.0m lengths)
http://www.audiotec- scher.de/lng/en/match-pp-iso.html?type=N
1 x PP-AC
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According to the manufacturer the harness adaptor cable does not work on the
W205 but I installed it without any problems. Everything works and all the
stock functions have been preserved.
Accessing the HU is not dif cult. The entire center console can be removed as
one piece. The procedure can be seen in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WK_pGmopebk
I would recommend taping up all of the edges with protective tape before
removing the console, as I managed to scratch the leather on the lid of the
central compartment. The rst part to be removed (shiny piece with the button
for opening the compartment) is the most dif cult. I advise patience and a wide
blunt tool.
The rst step after removing the HU from its supports is disconnecting the
stock harness and connecting the PP-AC 13a. As I was testing it and did not
know what to expect I connected its ISO male and female connectors and
used it for a while as, basically, an extension cable. Tip: the Audio20 system
does not work until you reconnect the center console (goes into protect
mode after several seconds).
If you decide to connect all the components straight away, the next step is to
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connect the PP ISO to the PP-AC 13a by connecting the appropriate male to
female ISO connectors (only one way to connect – no mistakes possible).

Before you connect these, you will need to pull the PP ISO’s ISO connectors
through the opening under the glove compartment. The PP-AC 13a stays
inside the center console (hidden in the hole under the HU) and the PP ISO
remains outside, together with the ampli er. I secured these two to the
plastic cover under the glove compartment – easy to access and not in the
way.
The other side of the PP ISO cable is the Match connector that goes into the
ampli er.
Space under the HU where you can t the extended harness with the PP-AC 13a cable, and the gap on the
right where the subwoofer cable and the PP ISO cable go out
The only part of this installation that isn’t P&P is connecting the Frontbass
stock woofer to the ampli er. The woofer is connected to the HU by a 5th
pair of wires connected bridged to the stock harness ISO part (explained
above – violet wires). In order to connect the woofer to the new amp you will
need to cut these wires and install a simple round connector on each of
them (male type) – on the side going towards the subwoofer. Tip: don’t forget
to insulate the wires coming out of the stock connector – they will still be
powered,
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TheClose
Match ampli
and accepter comes with a short subwoofer cable that plugs into the
ampli er on one side and has a pair of female connectors on the other.
There’s also a small extension to the subwoofer cable that plugs into the
female connectors but this is only for Match subwoofers and isn’t needed for
this installation.
The nal step is connecting the Match subwoofer cable to the amp and to
the connectors that you made on the stock wires going towards the
subwoofer.
The Match connector cable that comes with the amp (not needed for this installation), the USB cable for
connecting the amp to the laptop, xing screws and the subwoofer cable
When everything is connected, the system should look like this:
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Test connection of all components – nal setup features the PP ISO cable and the subwoofer cable hidden
under the glove compartment
When you connect all the parts, you will need to reconnect the center
console in order for the system to work. Before xing it in place, it is a good
idea to test the unit. If everything is connected properly, the small light on
the amp will light green and you’re good to go. Don’t worry if the music
sounds bad (and it will), as you still need to do the DSP setup in order to get
all the speakers to perform as they should.
As a prerequisite to this upgrade, it is assumed that you have already

installed a set of full range speakers to the front doors (coaxial or
component). You can nd a guide on how to install the Focal 100KRS system
in the post related to Burmester system upgrade on this blog. This is the
system that I used as well, and the one that the DSP setup is made for. Of
course, any other full range set of 4” speakers can be used, but the setup may
need to be adjusted for it.
When you rst start the amp, connect it via the USB cable to your laptop
withClose and accept
the DSP PC-Tool installed (not sure whether it works with Mac):
http://www.audiotec- scher.de/cms/lng/en/dsp-pc-tool-v3.html
The setup consists of setting the speaker high and low pass lters, choosing
the appropriate channels for input and adjusting the EQ (necessary in a car –
a small environment with a lot of highly re ective surfaces). I also changed
the automatic shut-off time to 10sec, as the car already has a delayed shut-
off for the media system (after I lock the doors it takes approx. 30sec for the
amp to shut down). You can nd a good setup guide at the Audiotec Fischer
website:
http://www.audiotec-
scher.de/ les/DSP%20Magazin/ATF_Sound_Tuning_Magazine-
DSP_Setup_Guide_Vol1.pdf
You can see the settings that I used for my system in the pictures below. If
you don’t want to go through the whole process you can download the setup
le that I made and just load it into the amp. It’s always possible to make
adjustments to the setup even if you load my settings. I would advise
everyone to adapt the sound to his or her liking and save the settings to an
external le. I’m still getting some minor distortions at higher volumes and
will be updating the le as I go along. Also, as a further development of the
blog I plan to install a new subwoofer and will upload a new setup for that
system as and when it is installed.
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Front Speaker Setup
Rear &Speaker
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Subwoofer Setup
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Upgrading The C Class AUDIO 20 System w205

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5/20/2019 Upgrading The C Class AUDIO 20 System

Upgrading The C Class AUDIO 20 System

Audio 20 Match DIY Upgrade By Vladarh

Looking for the Burmester audio mod? www.w205audio.wordpress.com

The connector going into the Audio 20 head unit

Standard ISO connector

To perform the upgrade I decided to install a 5-channel Digital Signal

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http://www.audiotec- scher.de/lng/en/match/products/ampli er/m-

1 x PP ISO cable harness (available in 1.0, 2.2 and 5.0m lengths)

female ISO connectors (only one way to connect – no mistakes possible).

When everything is connected, the system should look like this:

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under the glove compartment

As a prerequisite to this upgrade, it is assumed that you have already

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Front Speaker Setup

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CONNECT WITH US!

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CREATE A FREE WEBSITE OR BLOG AT WORDPRESS.COM.

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