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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Research
on

“Ways to revive dying crafts of Bihar”

Submitted to- Submitted by-


Mr. Toni sharma Nupur Kamal
Associate Professor PAT13MM04
FMS, NIFT Patna M.F.M (II)
(2013-2015)

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Abstract

Bihar handicrafts reflect a true blend of artistic beauty, rich tradition and innovation. In fact,
crafts of Bihar are like the mirrors of their tradition and customary practices. The handicrafts
of Bihar are appreciated and adored not only in India but all over the world because of their
great aesthetic value and adherence to tradition. Women are dominating over the crafts in
Bihar who popularize their own crop of legends, natural ambience, and traditional uses and
introduce the visitors to classicism of Bihar. Powerful dynasty like Magadha Majanapadas,
Mauryan Empire and Gupta Empire had flourished in the fertile land of Bihar. Some great
name of Indian History like Ashok, Chandragupta Mauryan and the symbol of peace and
non-violence Gautam Buddha had their root in Bihar. Some of the great religions of the world
like Buddhism and Jainism had sprouted form here. Thus naturally Bihar is rich with varied
arts and crafts. Throughout the generation the rich heritage of art and crafts has been
preserved though there are slight variations due to introduction of modern technologies.

But, now a days these crafts are not very prominent in the main stream of fashion or, life style
of people, even the youth of Bihar are unaware of these crafts. These crafts need to come in
main line so that it may generate better employment among a larger section of people &
people from leaving this as their traditional work. Especially the condition of women can be
improved & they can save our heritage.

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Contents

• Abstract..........................................................................................................................2
• Introduction.................................................................................................................4-7
• Objective........................................................................................................................8
• Literature review:
o Success stories..............................................................................................9-10
o Organizations..................................................................................11-12
• References............................................................ ...........................................13

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Introduction
The unique features of art and crafts in Bihar are the intrinsic beauties and great creativeness.
These creative beauties have been preserved in various forms like in ancient stone, wooden
structures, grass-clothes, lacquer and metal-wares. Bihar's craftsmen have excelled in
manufacturing artistic goods which have great demands in local and international market.
The fine skill and perfection of Bihari craftsmen is clearly manifested from various
archeological excavations in Kumhrar, Bulandibagh, Nalanda and other places. Pottery,
wooden articles, metal wares, stone wares, jewelry, lacquer works, kashida, sikki and moonj
wares, wooden and clay toys, zari, artistic textile fabrics and printing on cloth are some of the
contemporary crafts of Bihar which are known in Indian as well as international markets for
their artistic beauties and innovations. Another chief feature of Bihar’s handicraft is their
practicality and usefulness in everyday life like bangle making, khatwa works and stone
works.

The main crafts which are to be considered under this project are:

• Mithila / Madhubani Painting


• Sujani Embroidery
• Khatwa Embroidery
• Sikki Work
• Tikuli work

Mithila / Madhubani Painting

Madhubani paintings - native to the region of Mithilanchal - have spread the name of Bihar
all over the world. Madhubani paintings got it name after the village where it originated. It is
a creative folk painting done traditionally by the women, depicting special events and aspects
of everyday life.. Images of Gods and Goddesses such as Durga, Radha and Krishna, Shiva
and Parvati, natural subjects like Sun, Moon, Tulasi Plant, birds, animals and scened of
wedding or other celebrations are the main themes of the painting. Earlier the paintings were
drawn on mud plastered walls during important festivals and personal ceremonies. For
commercial purposes, today they are made on handmade paper, canvas and different types of

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clothes for international and national exhibitions etc. Even after so many years the method of
paintings has not changed a lot. A bamboo sticks wrapped around with cotton is used as the
paint brush and colors used are all obtained from nature. The pigments are taken from spices,
minerals, charcoal, vegetable matter, flowers and plants For example, powdered rice is used
as white colour, red colour comes from red sandal wood or kusam flower juice, yellow from
turmeric. What is Unique in Bharti's work is the fact that she centers her art to Heritage style
and yet manage to create an entirely modern and contemporary work from it ! Her work is
Experimental & Authentic.For the first time, 16ftx8ft 'The Great Demise' painting in
Madhubani art has been made by Bharti Dayal . Seven of her paintings have got place in
book ' The New Bihar ',where people have first time experienced " Artistic Presentation of
Economics ". Her paintings will be exhibited at the World Conference of Religions at the
Museum of Sacred Arts in Brussels in 2014 .

Smt Mahasundari Devi was again awarded, this time Padma Shri by the government of India
in 2011. According to Times of India Report after Keeping ill for the last some months, 92-
year-old Padmashri Mahasundari Devi died on July 4, 2013 at her native village, Ranti,
near Madhubani on Thursday morning.

Sujani Embroidery:

A traditional quilt sujini is made with layers of clothes mainly in the rural areas. Old clothes
are used for the inner stuffing and cotton or colorful threads are used for the embroidery. The
embroidery is done in running stitch in a scale pattern. The sujini depicts village and religious
scenes such as bride in palanquin, peacocks dance etc. Created with the simplest of stitches,
with readily available fabrics and at times with well-worn pieces of clothes.The Sujani works
are generally crafted by women in their free time at home. Traditionally, at the time of child
birth, patches of different colored cloth from old saris and dhotis were sewn together with a
simple running stitch to make a quilt called Sujani.
Today, the presence of various Craft Councils, NGOs, designers, the craft has traveled
beyond the region of its birth to urban markets in India and abroad.

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Khatwa Embroidery:

Khatwa is the applique work of Bihar used to craft decorative tents, canopies, shamianas, etc.
The applique designs for tents are Persian type trees, flowers, animals, birds, etc. For
canopies the whole design with circular central motif is cut out of a single cloth.

Sikki Work:

Sikki is a grass or a weed thrived on most of the river bank. Sikki work is a craft whereby the
craftsmen turned these once unnecessary riverside weed into beautiful decorative objects.
This craft is particularly practiced by women artisan in Bihar. Beautiful toys and wares are
manufactured out of this grass. After collecting and drying they stitch these grasses into
various shapes like elephant, bird, snake and tortoise. They then put various dazzling colours
on these toys to make it more attractive.

Using this craft exquisite objects like delightful baskets and mats are hand-woven by women
which are popularly given to brides during marriage. one stops to admire and exult at the
manner in which the wild Sikki Grass, a virtual riverside weed, has become a source of
creativity for the Sikki womenfolk.

Tikuli work:

The Tikuli' or.'Bindi' which has adorned the forehead of Hindu women for centuries has
now found a new incarnation as an art form. there was a time someHoO years ago when
the Tikuli was a commercially flourishing trade item serving as a beauty aide for the royal
ladies and attracting traders from the far off states of northern and western India to Patna
where bulk purchases were made of the gorgeously embellished Tikulis made in gold and
silver foils with glistening glasses acting as a solid bases. During this time the Tikuli
enjoyed a vast Mughal patronage and the maze of dingy, and dark lanes clustering around
over populated habitations in Patna were also engaged in manufacturing thousands of
such bright and beautiful Tikulis.

the artist, painter and craftsman Shree Ashok Kumar Biswas (at Dehri On Sone in Rohtas
district of Bihar), this man had a skill and a talent to match his dreams. He may saf ely be
called the lone crusader in the battle for the revival of the dying Tikuli craft and he has
kept the battle going at Patna since 1974 with his wife Shibani. But this art form did not

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reach its annihilation and found its salvation in painter Ashok K. Biswas whose single-
handed crusade has brought Tikuli art to our homes today. However due to the
intervention of S"hree Upendra Maharathi in providing a new dimension to the Tikuli art
by its indigenous portrayal on glazed hard boards but above all of utmost significance is
the undeterred efforts and undying spirit of painter and craftsman Ashdk K. Biswas who
has been the whole and soul in helping the Tikuli art reach its zenith.

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Objectives

Primary Objective:

• To find out the new ways to revive dying crafts of Bihar

Secondary Objective:

• To find the current status of these crafts


• To find out reasons of diminishing of these crafts
• To study different Govt. & other agencies plans for the development of these crafts
• To find out new ways for promotion of traditional crafts
• To develop a plan for the artisans of these crafts for their better livelihood

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Literature review

Success stories:

1) Jaipur Rugs

The Jaipur Rugs case explores how a company can benefit the poor by connecting them
with global markets. Jaipur Rugs makes this connection by building and orchestrating a
global supply chain on a massive scale—one focused on developing human capability and
skills at the grassroots level, providing steady incomes for rural men and women in the
most depressed parts of India and connecting them with markets of the rich, such as the
United States. The company not only uses traditional weavers but also teaches, in
remarkably short time, the craft to people who do not have a tradition of weaving. Raw
materials are sourced from around the world, processed into rugs with traditional and new
designs in rural India while maintaining quality control of end products. Jaipur Rugs
provides a unique and dynamic example of how a profitable commercial connection
between the poor and the rich—across the world—can be done.

2) Petals Craft

By Usha Jha, In front of A.N. College, Boring Road, Patna


This started from the work of a woman at home in MADHUBANI Painting in the Araria
district around 23 years ago, which now takes a form of complete enterprise which gives
employment to more than 100 people. Works are done at the villages of Sitamadhi,
Madhepura, Madhubani, Araria & also at some places of Patna. She started by a single
painting of kobhar ghar done by her mother & right now the products are displayed at the
Exhibition at St. Petersburg(Russia), & many fashion shows etc. She bring this to this
place by implementing the the traditional things into modern style in western outfits also.

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3) Anuttara Jharcraft
Ms. Kalpana is the owner of a silk retail store (mainly Bhagalpur silk) which has a
association with the Jharcraft, she founded a historical art of Bihar which is unknown to
others- Manjusha art. She started working on this craft and implements it on dresses
which she made available for sale in her store. Products are made like- saree, suit,
anarkali etc.

4) Rekha das

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Organizations:
1) Bihar Mahila Udyog sangh

The Sangh has given recognition and market to the old handicrafts of Bihar, which
are almost forgotten. Now the entrepreneurs of the Sangh are working hard to
revive these crafts like Tikuli work, Applique Work. Madhubani Painting, Hand
Embroidery etc. The main objective of the Sangh is to bring all the Women
entrepreneurs of Bihar under one roof for the gainful utilization of their skills

• To identify women entrepreneurs and motivate them.


• To help them become socially and economically independent and to generate a
sense of confidence in them.
• To promote Rural and Cottage Industries in Bihar.
• To inspire students and women of weaker section of the society to bring them
above poverty line.
• To arrange practical training for skill up gradation.
• To assist members of the sangh to get loans from Bank and other financial
institutions on easy terms.

2) Self Employment Womens Association (SEWA)

SEWA is a trade union registered in 1972. It is an organisation of poor, self-employed


women workers. These are women who earn a living through their own labour or small
businesses. SEWA’s main goals are to organise women workers for full employment. Full
employment means employment whereby workers obtain work security, income security,
food security and social security (at least health care, child care and shelter). SEWA
organises women to ensure that every family obtains full employment. By self-reliance
we mean that women should be autonomous and self-reliant, individually and
collectively, both economically and in terms of their decision-making ability. At SEWA
we organise workers to achieve their goals of full employment and self reliance through
the strategy of struggle and development. The struggle is against the many constraints and
limitations imposed on them by society and the economy, while development activities
strengthen women’s bargaining power and offer them new alternatives. Practically, the
strategy is carried out through the joint action of union and cooperatives.

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3) Bhagini Nivedita Gramin Vigyan Niketan(BNGVN)
In 2011 the Ramon Magsaysay Awards Foundation recognized Neelima Mishra (founder
of BNGVN) as an emerging leader for her zeal in working with self help groups across
Maharashtra to give the poorest of the poor not just access to micro-financing but also the
means to collectively improve their lives by creating better income opportunities.
They provide micro-finances to farmers at low interest rates and create self-help groups
for women to build self-sustainable villages. Our founder, Neelima Mishra, has been
awarded the prestigious Ramon Magsaysay Award 2011 for impacting the lives of over
20,000 people . Khandesh region witnessed a three-year long drought that in turn robbed
the farmers of any source of income. It became the epicentre of a horrifying 1,341 farmer
suicides in 2010. To address this issue, they started lending timely loans to help farmers
here come out of debt. A total of 5 million USD worth of micro-credits has been loaned
with 100% recovery rate.
Furthermore, they run self-help groups for women where we teach them vocational and
practical skills. Learning these skills allows them to start small scale quilt stitching and
snack making businesses giving them an alternative livelihood.
They also run a ‘model-village’ programme, where village funds are created by the
collective savings of all families and are loaned out to the ones in need.

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References

• http://www.bharatonline.com/bihar/art-craft/index.html, 12-2-2014, 7:00pm


• http://ignca.nic.in/UNESCO_Report.pdf , 8-2-2014, 8:15pm
• http://www.indianetzone.com/16/crafts_bihar.htm , 13-2-2014,3:25pm
• http://www.biharmahilaudyogsangh.com , 11-2-2014, 9:45pm
• Ranjan & Ranjan, Crafts of India-Handmade in India, Published on 2007,Council of
Handicraft Development Corporation, pp-180-187.
• www.jaipurrugsco.com, retrieved on 08-03-2013, 10:50pm
• Personal Interview of Usha Jha, 11-03-2013, 5:30 pm
• Telephonic interview of Ms. Kalpana, 09-03-2013, 3:55pm
• Bhagini%20Nivedita%20Gramin%20Vigyan%20Niketan%20%20%20LetzChange.ht
m, retrieved on 08-03-2013

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