Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
Sty ltoenic
Get ready
it’s party time
www.style-tonic.com
TONIC Traveller
Diary
Dates
Damsels in distress, the art of fashion and
frilly knicker heaven. Pencil these unmissable
events into your little black book.
Hung, Drawn
and Corseted
Before the catwalks, the models,
the fittings and even the fabric, the
humble fashion drawing is where it
all begins. Straight from the creative
consciousness of some of the world’s
leading designers, an exhibition in the
Design Museum in London is paying
homage to the squiggles and swirls
that define a masterpiece. Including
drawings from the collections of
Chanel, Commes des Garcons,
McQueen and Victor & Rolf, and a
series of talks, with veteran fashion
journalist and historian Colin McDowell
in conversation with visionaries
Manolo Blahnik and Stephen Jones,
it promises to draw quite the crowd.
Drawing Fashion, November 2010 –
March 2011, www.designmuseum.org.
Cover photography by
Guy Aroch/trunkarchive.com
2
hot shots
MoMA’s annual New
Photography exhibition
features work by Alex
Prager, Roe Ethridge, Elad
Lassry and Amanda Ross-
Ho, all inspired by the vast
pool of images from the
world of print media and
advertising. Exploring, and
in some cases subverting,
the construction of the
fashion image and role
of the female muse, the
exhibition promises to
intrigue – look out for out-
takes from fashion shoots
by Ethridge, and Prager’s
visceral retro narratives, Alex Pragers’s pho-
complete with doomed tography explores
heroines and fabulous the anti-heroine in
popular imagery.
bouffant hair. Until January
2011, www.moma.org
Craft Work
Don’t know your cross-stitch from your slip-stitch? The ladies at Irish
ethical fashion initiative Re-dress are here to help with a range
of crafty courses, including a beginners’ design crash course,
upcycling textiles class, bow-ties & Bellinis, mums to be embroidery,
basic pattern drafting, and (our favourite) French knickers &
cocktails. From November, www.re-dress.ie
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A/W Tonic Trends
#3
#1
#2
0
/W1
ji A
Sho
#4
i
ash
Tad
#7
#7 Knitted top
#6 Purple frill by Catherine
dress by La Malandrino, €295,
Petite S*****, €1,499, www.style-tonic.com
www.style-tonic.com
#5
Get Your
Fashion has gone soft around
the edges this season with
pussybow ties, ruched seams
and playful ruffles.
#8 Natayla dress
by Dagmar, €260, #8
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A/W Tonic Trends
#1 Printed blouse by
Isabel Marant, €420,
www.style-tonic.com
#2 Print dress
#1 by Catherine
Malandrino,
€475, www.style-
tonic.com
#2
www.style-tonic.com
so
ni A
#4
/W1
0
#3
#4 Knitted skirt by
Missoni, €295,
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6
#1 Into the
#2 Darkside jeans by
Zadig & Voltaire, €185,
www.style-tonic.com
#3
#1 Leopard-print
dress by David
Meister, €330,
www.style-tonic.com
#3 Leopard-print
#2 blouse by Catherine
Malandrino, €325,
www.style-tonic.com
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A/W Tonic Trends
#2
#1
#3
#4
l Ma
#5
rant
A/W1
0
keep it simple
One of the hottest trends this season, sleek,
pared back minimalism means less is more.
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#1 Black coat by
John Rocha, €1,429,
www.style-tonic.com
#1
it’s a
wrap
Look smart with this season’s
sharpest tailored coats.
#2 Embellished
coat by John
Rocha, €1,639,
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#2
A/W10
t
Moure d
Rolan
#3
RM by
#3 Wool-blend trench
coat by Fifth Avenue
Shoe Repair, €530,
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Runningforward
fashion head
The By The No
collection is an
avant-garde take
on the label’s
distinctive draping
and edgy tailoring.
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Astrid Olsson
and Lee Cotter
founded Swedish
design brand
Fifth Avenue
Shoe Repair
in 2004.
Pleading
the Fifth
Swedish design duo Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair
never fail to surprise and delight. Garrett
Pitcher of Indigo & Cloth ventured to the
Scandi capital to find out what makes them tick.
I
t’s 6pm, dark, cold and February. I am boarding my
first flight to Stockholm, Sweden. At this stage I have
completed 90% of my buying for the store, due to
open in September 2007.
Sweden in Winter is definitely an experience. The
following morning, it’s still dark when I head to my
appointment in the Södermalm area of Stockholm. I had
only ever seen pictures of this brand, and few at that, but
enough to make me fly to Sweden. The minute I walk into
the environment of Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, I feel at home.
We chat a little and outline our plans to each
other before I am taken down to the basement
to view what will be the A/W07 collection. I
remember the feeling to this day; people will be
talking about this brand for generations to come.
Astrid Olsson and Lee Cotter established
their clothing company, Fifth Avenue Shoe
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fashion forward
“ classic tailoring,
pattern making
and authentic
knowledge have
Pleated silk dress
by Fifth Avenue
always stayed
Shoe Repair, €315, a priority and a
www.style- necessity in the
tonic.com
collections”
12
Looks from the
A/W10 By the
No collection
by Fifth Avenue
Shoe Repair.
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One to Watch
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Upclose &
personal Irish photographer
Neil Gavin’s dreamy,
elegant portraits are a
regular fixture on the big
bad London fashion scene.
But is he ready for his
close up?
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One to Watch
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What can’t you live without?
VANS trainers and Guinness.
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One to Watch
His commercial
clients include All
Saints, Selfridges,
John Rocha
and Matches.
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“ I spent a few hours walking the
streets of New York with the Beastie
Boys, while they jumped and ran
around and posed for my camera.”
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One to Watch
Neil’s masterful
use of light gives
his soulful portraits
infinite depth.
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One to Watch
www.neilgavin.com
22
Preferring to use “real”
people rather than
models, Neil blurs the
boundaries between
portraiture and
fashion photography.
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Style Hero
Girl
24
Irish stylist Celestine
Cooney, by Chad
Pitman. LEFT
Editorial shoot
styled by Celestine
with photographer
David Dunan.
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Style Hero
C
elestine Cooney’s first ever shoot
was on a cover. Back then, she
didn’t even know what a stylist
was. When publisher Trevor White
asked a fresh faced Celestine
to style a shoot for The Dubliner over a
decade ago, he had to explain to her how
to get the clothes and to put them on the
model. The shoot was used on the cover
and Celestine’s career took off from there.
Since then, she has worked for Dazed &
Confused, British Vogue, Chinese Vogue,
Teen Vogue, V and many others. Now, as
the fashion director of Twin magazine, she
hasn’t forgotten how it all began. “I don’t
think I thought it was that big a deal at the
time,” she laughs.
That’s one thing about Celestine. Apart
from her clearly ferocious work ethic,
innate style and generosity of spirit, she has
one of the most wonderful laughs I have
ever heard. Spontaneous, unmistakable
and hugely infectious, that laugh is the
antithesis of icy fashion maven. Celestine
is flying to New York the next day, and her
house in Hackney is rammed with heavy
clothes bags and tantalising boxes. Over
Jaffa cakes and endless cups of tea, it
becomes clear how her earthy, wicked
sense of humour and refusal to succumb
to the gilded eccentricities and diva
tendencies rampant in the rag trade have
kept her sane, although it hasn’t always
been easy.
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Loving the
aspirational feel
of countryside
locations, Celestine
shot these images
with photographer
by Ben Toms.
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Style Hero
28
“ I was so naïve, someone could
have beaten me up and I would
have thought that they did it by
accident because they thought I
was someone else!”
“Any of those rumours about the Playful and a little
fashion industry being bitchy are true, rough around the
I can confirm all of that,” she says, on edges, her distinctive
style is apparent
a more serious note. When she first throughout her
moved over to London at 23 and work. Photography
assisted creative director of Dazed by Paul Wetherall.
& Confused, Nicola Formichetti, for
two years, she was catapulted into
the heart of the London fashion
scene. “I was so naïve, someone
could have beaten me up and I
would have thought that they did it
by accident because they thought
I was someone else! I had this mad
innocence that really helped me
through because I never would have
thought anyone was trying to be
mean to me. Now I value that down-
to-earth Irish innocence so much
because I didn’t lose it and I did
have to hold onto it with both hands,
because it is such a seductive world.
Sitting front row at a fashion show, you
can almost feel your ego expanding.”
She has seen people become their worst
nightmare but gets how it can happen. “You’ve
got to just stay so strong because fashion is
an industry that allows for assholes and where
being a bitch is a good thing. It’s a really tough
industry. Everyone knows that but I don’t think
you really realise how tough it is. I’ve gone
through massive phases where I’ve thought,
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Style Hero
“ I remember
thinking, ‘Oh my
‘I cannot do this if this is what this God, why did
is’. A lot of people get really badly nobody tell me
treated and that doesn’t sit well the model was
with me.” Beth Ditto? All
Far from the green fields of Co my clothes are
Meath, the hotbed of Dazed & sample size!’”
Confused was like another universe.
Shoots now involved Terry Richardson and David Bailey,
and Kate Moss regularly wandered through the office.
Celestine smiles in reminiscence. “I look back at the times
when things were hard, when I was packing boxes and
crying at 4 o’clock in the morning, knowing I had to get
up at 7am and go to Paris. But when you think about it –
getting up and going to Paris – you forget that what you
do is really amazing.”
After two years, it was time to move on and Celestine
established herself as a freelance stylist, working with
companies such as Topshop and Roxy and styling
catwalk shows for alternative fashion god, Ashish, and
music videos for the likes of Marina & the Diamonds. (A
pair of stars and stripes boxing gloves from
Hollywood hang from her coat-rack). Last year,
when Twin magazine approached her to be
their fashion director, all the hard work had
finally paid off.
RIGHT Above,
photography by “I really love my job, I never wake up in the
Irish photographer morning and dread something.” I ask if she still
Boo George. Below, has pre-shoot insomnia? Not so much now but
photography by
Linda Brownlee for she does admit to having hilariously “fashion”
Dazed & Confused. dreams. “I arrived on a shoot and the model
was Beth Ditto and I remember thinking, ‘Oh
my God, why did nobody tell me the model
was Beth Ditto? All my clothes are sample
size!’ I was like, ‘Everyone hold tight, I’m going
to Evans to buy some stuff!’” More laughter.
She is however, “quite geeky” about her work,
30
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Style Hero
32
A fan of people
and characters,
Celestine finds the way. I think I’ve always been just a bit odd.”
human element
to her work the
If odd means not your average, then Celestine
most interesting. certainly fits the bill. “I take my job seriously
Photography by and I work my ass off and I’ll always be the best
Mel Bles.
that I can be, but at the end of the day, there
are certain times where you have to draw the
line and if the Dior jacket doesn’t arrive from
Paris, there’s no need for histrionics. It’ll probably
arrive and be the wrong colour anyway.” ✚
www.celestinecooney.com
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Revelations
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CICI CAVANAGH DJ/Club Promoter
HIDDEN HOT-SPOT Ye Old Carlton Arms Hotel,
160 East 25th Street, NYC, www.carltonarms.com
I stayed here during New York fashion week,
2009, and I can honestly say I’ll return year
after year.
The hotel opened in the 1980s, when a small
group of creative people decided to paint
the walls of what was, at the time, a “dark
and ill shelter”. Each one of the 54 rooms
and 4 hallways are decorated and themed
by different artists from all over the world.
The sheer creative energy in the building is
indescribable... You really have to feel it to
believe it. It’s in an ideal location on the east
side of Manhattan, only a walk away from the
bars and nightlife of the hip lower east side,
the theatre district to the west and Greenwich
village to the south. It’s a constantly evolving
conceptual art project.
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Revelations
www.emilyquinn.com
36
MARK ANDREWS, Stylist, image and design consultant.
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Revelations
38
“ The shawls
and pashminas
are woven by
local women in
their own back
gardens”
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“Fashion is not something that
exists in dresses only. Fashion
is in the sky, in the street,
fashion has to do with ideas, the
way we live, what is happening.”
Coco Chanel