Marker making

A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the
sizes to be cut from a single spread.

Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a
specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes. The process of arranging pattern pieces in the
most efficient manner requires time, skill, and concentration. Markers may be made by
manually tracing master patterns onto fabric or paper or by manipulating and plotting
computerized pattern images.

- Manually produced markers

- Computerized marker making

Cut order planning determines how many markers are needed, how many of each size should
be in each marker, and the number of ply that will be cut with each marker. Size distribution
in a marker depends on the volume of orders for specific sizes, fabric width, how the prices fit
together, and the firm’s standard practices for marker making. An efficient size ratio is often
1:2:2:1. For example, an order for one marker may contain one small, two medium and large,
depending on the assortments in the line plan or orders from merchandise buyers. Cutting
orders may require making new markers, copying previously made markers, or modifying
previous markers.

Dimension of markers

Markers are made to fit the cuttable widths of fabrics. Cuttable width is the usable portion of
the fabric width. Selvages are often not usable, and on printed fabric the design often begins
an inch or so beyond the selvage; thus, these portions are not usable in garments. If a marker
is narrower than the usable width, the unused fabric is wasted. If a marker is wider than the
specified fabric, garment parts located on the edge of the marker will not be complete. Fabric
is purchased by width, but often it runs wider or narrower than the required width. When fabric
width is grossly inconsistent, fabrics in a lot may be grouped by width and different markers
produced for each width. Using the extra width in planning markers can save significant
yardage or prevent recuts when fabric is narrower than ordered.
Marker efficiency

Marker efficiency is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of the total fabric that is
actually used in garment parts. The area not used in garment parts is waste. Marker efficiency
depends on how tightly the pattern pieces fit together within the marker. The total surface area
of the pattern pieces is compared to the total area of the marker to calculate the percentage of
fabric that is used. This is determined automatically by marker-making software. If marker-
making technology is not available, the area of each pattern piece may be determined by a
planimeter – a mechanical device that calculates the surface area as the outline of the pattern is
traced. Factors that affect marker efficiency are fabric characteristics, shapes of pattern pieces,
and grain requirements.

Fabric characteristics that affect utilization include differences in face and back, lengthwise
directionality, crosswise symmetry, need for matching the fabric design, length of design
repeat, and fabric width. These fabric characteristics frequently limit the arrangement of pattern
pieces. Matching fabric designs requires special marker preparation and extra piece goods.
Stripe or plaid lines must be indicated on pattern pieces and markers for accurate alignment
and matching to corresponding pieces. The greater the length between repeats increases the
potential for fabric waste.

Patterns are sometimes modified to increase fabric utilization, although modification may not
always be feasible. The following pattern adjustments may be used to improve fabric
utilisation:

 Splitting pattern pieces and creating a seam

 Rounding or slanting corners
 Reducing seam allowances and/or hem width
 Adjusting pattern dimensions without noticeable change to fit and style
 Adjusting grain lines for hidden garment parts
 Modifying grain lines specified by the designer
Marker quality

Accuracy is a major factor in marker quality. Complete data and precise lines are essential for
cutters and sewers to process the garment parts correctly. Information needed for each pattern
piece includes size, style number, and piece name or number. Lines must be accurate,
consistent, fine, smooth, and a precise image of the production pattern.

Depending on quality standards, pieces may be overlapped slightly or have corners rounded in
an effort to conserve fabric. These economies frequently cause problems when operations try
to align two corresponding pieces for sewing.

The omission of even the smallest piece from the marker can create major problems and
recutting. A missing piece may not become apparent until the garment parts are prepared for
sewing.

Planning the knife path for cutting is an important quality consideration. There must be space
for the cutting knife to maneuver without cutting into adjoining pieces. It is easy to cut straight
into a lay but to turn and change directions requires space in the marker where this can happen
without damaging other pieces. If manually cut, consideration must be given to the position of
the cutting operator because operators are not able to manuever as freely as a computer-
controlled knife.